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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at|http : //books . google . com/ " T TRAVELS IN VARIOUS COUNTRIES or EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFBICA. BY ia>WARD BANIEI^ CLAHKB, L. L. U PART THE FIRST. BUSSM, TdRTABT, AXD TURKEY. SECTION 1. 9XC0irD AMSBICAJr SDITIOK. NEW-YORK : ntnrrsD aitd voblisbbb bt vat, & go. 157, chatbax ffr, 1818. \ 7.\ PREFACE. UNDER eircninttaneeg. of peculiar anxiety, the aathor presenti the first part of his travels to the publick* A sense of unearned praise, al- ready bestowed by too ea^^er anticipation, weig^hs heavy on his mind ; and some degree of apprehension attaches to the consciousness of having obeyed, a strong iiilpulse of duty in the unfaTourable representation made of the state of society in Russia. The moral picture afforded of its inhabitants may seem distorted by spleen, and traced under other impressions than those of geiMsral charity and Christian benevolence : on 'which account the reader is doubly entreated to pardon defects, which experience, chastened by eriticiBm, maj bUuSequentiy amend'; and to suspend the judgment* which more genei*al acquaintance with the author may ultimate^ mitinite. The present publication is not the only oae on which he will have to form an opinion. It is merely an introduction to his future notice. The plan under oontem^alion is to complete, in thbss separate pabts, a series of ti-avels in Burope, Asia, and Africa; so that each portion, consisting of ono or more volumes, may constitute a survey of some particular region. Thus, for example, the work now published, relates to travels in MusstOp Tartartff and Turkey ; a second may include the observations collected in Greece, Syria, and Eaypt; and, finally, a tlurd ; those which presented themselves in Jienmark, J^orway^ Sv/eden, Lapland^ and I%n{flkd. But» in order to accomplish so extensive an undertaking, some indulgence is required to the manner of its execution ; some credit for better disposition towards his fellow-creatures, than the author's severe pennance in Russia may seem to have excited. It is not so generally known as it may be, that the passage 6f a small rivulet, which separates the two countries of Sweden and Russia, the mere crossing of a bridge conducts the traveller from all that adorns and dignifies the hum^n mmd, to whatsoever, most iib)ect, has been found to degrade it. If tne late empress and autocrat of all the Russias, Catherine the Second, could find a Volney, who would prostitute his venal pen to varnish the deformities of her reign and of her empire ; if Potemkin did not want an apolo^st, and an advocate, even among the wpters of this country ; Great Britam will forgive the frankness of one among her sons, who has ventured, although harshly, to speak the truth. It is a language not wholly obscured in ths more cautious descriptions of former writers. Tubervile, of England, Augustine, of Germany, Olearius, of Denmark, and, moi*e recently, the Abbe de la Chi^pe, of France, together with the authors of many anonymous pro- ductions, represent the real character of the people, in colours, which neither the antidote of Alexis Mussin Pushkin, the drivelings of Voltaire nor all the hired deceptions -of French philosophers and tavaru, have been able tq wipe away. A few word8> by vrvy of acknowledgment to thcMe wlioliflCYe eonlnbuM to the accomplishment of the present undertakings it is hoped will not be deemed superfiaous. At the same time it is not necessary to repeat ex- pressions which occur in the following pag2S. With the exception, tiiere- fore, of lord Whitwortb, whose respectable name the author here bees leave to introduce, no repetition will be offered. To his kindness, while ambassadoar at Petersburgh, the very existence of the present ▼olume maybe ascribed; and his character ought to stand recorded, in having Afforded, as an English minister, the very rare example of liberal pati*onage to his travelling countrymen, during the whole of his embassy. In the course of the subseouent narrative, the author has generally used a plural expression^ even with reference to his own personal observations. This mode of writing was adopted, not solely with a view to devest his style «f egotism, but in ulusion to his frieisd) the cause and companion of his travels, John Marten Cripps, M. A, of Jesus College, Cambridge. To bis unceasing ardour, in prosecuting every enterprise, was added a mild- ness and suavity of manners, which endeared him to the inhabitants of whatever country he visited. The constancy Mid firmness he preserved through all the trials and privations of a long and arduous journey, as well as the support he rendered to the author in hours of painfull and dangerous sickness, demand tYte warmest expressions of gratitude. The plants collected during the route, were the result of their mutuallabour ; but the 'whole of the meteorological statement in the appendix,* together with the account given of relays and distances,f are dde tb his patient observation and industry. To the Rev. Reginald Heber, of Brazen-JTose CoUe^, Oxford, the withor is indebted for the valuable manuscript joumaL which afforded the extracts given in the notes. In addition to Mr. Heber s habitual accuracy may be mentioned the statistical information, which stamps a peculiar Taluc on his observationsv This has «nrich6dthe volume by communica- tions tlie author himself was incompetent to supply. To Aylmer Bonrke Lambert, esq. Fellow of the Boyal Antiquarian, «nd Linncan Societies, author of several botanical writings, and, amon^ others, of a splendid work on the Genus Pirms, as well as possessor of the finest Herbarium in Europe, for his kindness in arranging the plants col- lected in tlie Crimea, and in preparing a fist of them for the appen- dix.t Notwitlistanding the care bestowed on the accurracy of the text. It is highly probable that some errours have escaped the author's notice. Should this prove to be the case, it is hoped the pultlick wiU overlook defects in the st}ie of a mere writer of travels, from which the more re- sponsible pages of an Addison, a Steele, and a Gibbon, hRre not been found exempt. In the progress of transcribing ajoumal written in a foreign land, remote from scenes of literature, more attention was often given to the fidelity of the extract, tlian to the elegance, or even purity of the composition. And if the following sentiments of the celebrated Shafts- bun'§ be coiTect, tlie reader will not wish to be detained from a perusal of the volume by any such considerations. • See JSTo. VII. of the Appendix, t Ibid. JVo. VL % See appendix, JVo, V. Mr. Lambert is the present poneswr of tlie celebrated Herbarium of Pallas, purchased by Mr. Crtpps, dttrinff ids residence vdth the professor, and brought to England in the Jiraakelf >hxf captain George Clarke^ of the royal navy, A. 2>. 1805. § Advice to aiiAutJior, ^^0 ehch»ited we are with the traTeHiiig memoirs of «ny «mihi1 •dven« turer, that, be his character or genius wluit it will, we have no sooner turned over a page or two, than we begin to interest oarselves highly in his affairs. No sooner hasi he taken shipping at the mouth of the Thames or sent his baggage before lum to Gravesend or Baoy, in the Kore, than straight oar attention is earnestly taken up- If, in order to his more distant travels, he takes some part of Europe in his way, we can with patience hear of inns and ordinaries, passage-boats and femes, foul and fair weath- er, with all the particulars of the author's diet, habit of body, hit person- al dangers and mischances, on land and sea. And thus, full' of desire and liope, we accompany him, till he enters on his great scene of action, wui. begins by the description of some enormous JUh or beaeU** *«* The unsettled atate of English orthography, as far as it affects the introduction c£ Rnssian names, produces considerable embarrassment te the writer who whishes to follow a fixed rule. Upon this subject it not only happena that no two authors agrecybut the same author is inconastent. Jonas Hanway, whose writings are more accurate thau those of any other English traveller who has visited Russia, may be considered as affording, perhaps, the best model in this respect, but he is not consistent.* In the Russian alphabet there is no letter answering to our W ; yet we write J^o9C0f:to and fVoronetz. Where custom has long sanctioned an «buse of this kind, the established mode seems preferable to any deviation whicK may wear the anpearanee of pedantir. The author has, in this respect, been guided by the authority and example ef Gibbon ; who nfiKrmSjf that '* some wor^, notoriously corrupt, are fixed, and, as it were, naturalized in the vulgar tongue. The pro(^et Jfokammedewi no longer be stripped of the famous, though improper, appellation of ■Jlfahomet; the well known cities of Aleppo, Danuuctu, and Cairo, would almost be' lost in ^e. Strang descriptions of iTa^e^, Dantashk, and M Cahira,** But, it may be fiurly adced, where is the Hne to be drawn? What are the Russian names, which we are to consider as Jixed and naiuraUzedin the vulgar ton^e ? Are we to write Woronetx^ or Vorvnije ; WoLga or Volga \ Koi-w^ m Kiofj Azow or Azof? Lord Whitworth wrote CMoJ^snd Asoph^ although both these names have the same origin- al tecminati<m.t It is the B [ Vidy] redoubled in compound words, which occasions the prindpal difficulty, and which has been confounded with our W. Thus, as it is mentioned by Storch,§ from Levesque, the Russian word Vvidhdet signifying iniroaucHon, consists of the preposition vo or* V [into'] and vedenH (]to conduct.'] The proper initial letter in Englisb, therefore^ for the word, would be F, whose power it- alone possesses; and not W, which conveys a false idea of pronunciation.^ When this com- * T7ie name of the same place is -written Kieva in voL L p. 9. Khieva in p. 15, a«<f Khiva «» a note. Nagai Tartars, in p. 8* vol, I. aretoritten Nagay Tartars in p. 11. Throughout his -work the tei'minating vowel is fiometimes i, and as often y/ as Valdai, Poderosnoi and Yakutsky, Xasorowsky. t P. S. toPref ch. 39. Hist, of Bed. and Fall^ &c, i Account of Russia^ by Charles Lord WMtworth. Strawb, JSiU^ 175«. J Tableau de V Umpire de Russie, torn. I. p. 19. ^ The reader tviUfind tJds example mentioned in a note to p. 140 ,• •Am it might be improper to omit the insertion of it in a pait of the vol- nune ejrpreesl;^ appropriated to verbal criticism. "pmxaA OMOIVM Hie termination of a word, it is best expressed by oar /; as Orhfi for Orlow ; -which exaetlj answers the mode of pronunciation in BiHsauu Some writers use the letter doubled, by adding Jf : this is how- crreTy superfluous. The plan pursued by the author, but to which, per- haps, he has not regularly adhered, was to substitute a Ffor the Russian VV, whenever it occurs at the beginning or in the middle of a word ; and an/*, whenever it is found as a termination. There is yet another letter of the Russian alphabet which from its tre- quent recftirence as an initial, requires a perfect reconciliation to some settled law of English orthography; viz. the Tchirve: this has the power of our ck, in cheese, and cnil^y and occurs in the name of the Cossacks of the Black Sea, Tchemomoraki, The author had written this word Tahemomorski, in the beginning of the first chapter of this volunoe, when he became acquainted witb Earjavie's Remarks on the Russian Alphabet,* which enabled him to adopt a more accurate mode o^ writing. With regard to words terminating m cd and o»» as Valdai^ JPatdovakoi, perhaps it would he weUtosubstituta«^Bd oy, as Valdau, Paulovakay^ or y only, as Valdy^Pmilovako ; which last ofiers a dose imitation of the vulgar mode of pronunciation in general : but the vaiiety caused by different dialects in different parts of the empire, will^ alter every attention is paid to a settied rule of writings oecaaion frequent perplexity and embarrassment. In the orthography of the names of places hnmediately south of Moscow, frequent attention was paid to the map of Reymann, published by Schmit, at Berlin, in 1802. Bnt even in that map, the territor}- of the Don Cos- sacks, Kuban Tartary, and the Crimea, appear only as a forlorn blank. Many years may expire before Russia, tike Sweden, will possess a HE]iM£i.i2r, to illustrate the geography ol the remote provinces of lier empire; especially as it is a ma3um in her policy to maintain the ignorance which prevails in Europe concerning those parts of her dominions. On this account, the indecision, which must appear in the perusal of this volume, to characterize the deteription of the eonntry between Biroelaf And Odessa, admits of explanation. The geography of all that district is IttUe known. The courses of the Dniester, the Bog, and the Dniper, as well as the latitude and soundings of the coast, near uxe embouchures have never been adequately surveyed. The only tolesable charts are preserved ^ the Russain government; but seduloiuly secreted from the eyes of Europe, It has, however, fallen to the author's lot to interfere in some de^ee, with this part of its political system, by depositing within a British admiralty certain documents, which were a subsequent acquisition made during his residence in Odessa. These he conveyed from that conn- txy at the hazard of his life. They are too voluminous for insertion in the work, but may serve to facilitate the navigation of the Russian coasts of the Black sea, if ever the welfare of Great Britain eiionld demand the presence of her fleets in that part of the worid. In making tliis addition to our stock of knowledge, foi* the use of our navy, no ties of confidence, or honour, were broken with a people, who have violated every engage- ment with this country. Those documents were intrusted to the author b^ persons fully authorized to concede tiie information, and their injunc- tions have been sacredly obeyed. • Hemarqites sur la Lan^ie Ruasienne, par Pheodore \Karjavine Pe- tefsb, 1791. TABLES RUSSIAN MEASURE, WEIGHT, AND MONEY. MEASURE. N. B' The 4rehing, ar Kvumm yard, equals 28 SugUih iaeliM. The Sajen^ or Riisaian fathoiayveqiialB 7 Bngfiri^ feet Three Vent^ e^al % £Q(^li»h miles. ^ .The RaaoUo fo9t Is exactly that of EBclaiid. The Yenhock eqmds 1 Edglish iBeh:«idd«i. 404 VenU equal '1 B^gcee. . 500 Si^ciisy cqiMl 1 Yerst 3 Archinesy equal 1 Sajen. 16 Yenboeks, equal 1 Acehine. WEIGHT. The tmftlleit wdigfat of Rnssia is the Soloinick, irhieh eqoalf tix^fftdm S Solotniclu, equal 1 Lot. 32 Lots, equal 1 Pound. '40 Pounds, equal 1 Poud. MONEY. K. B. The first ^ver money of Russia iviw eoined at Noirogorod, ia 1480, io small pieees, which were called Copeeks. The present ralue of the eopeek may he estimated as equal to an Engfish halfpenny. Almost an caleolatioiis of the eoontry are made aecoiding to the nnmher of Copeeks. ta 1654, voaUes were introduced at Moteow in the form of bars, with deep notches in them [r9ublQ which enabled the possessor to detach as much of the bar as his payment mig^t require.* Hence the origin of th« word rouble. Almost aU the cc^per money of Russia is coined in Siberia, and principany at Ca^erineboorg, near the Ural mines. Sixteen roubles of pure copper wei|^ a pond. Atpreseni the tpetae of theconniry hat neaily disappeared, and pai»er ii its only rqyrescntatiTe. The eopeek no longer exists at coirent coin. * Gtfof^. JDntrip9A St. fckn. pu lt7. JBdiTl. FroM. PeUn. 1793. Till VrZl^UT ANB MONET. The following tUtement of the names and Talue of RoBsian mraer is ehieflj extracted from Georgia .* SILVER MONEY. 1 Rouble equals 100 Copeeka» 1 Polten, or 1-2 rouble . . . s= 50 Do. 1 Polupolten, or 1-4 rouble == 25 Do. 1 Dvagriven = 20 Do. 1 Paetalten ==r 15 Do. 1 Griven s= 10 Do. 1 Paetach = 5 Do. COPPER MONEY, 1 Paetach •...*.... equals 5 Copeeks. 1 Altiue = 3 Do. 1 Grosh = 2 Do. 1 Copper Copeek •..*.. == 1 Do. K. B. This last coin represents in front, tha figure of St. Georee •» horseback, piercing a dragon -with his spear. << From this spear/" says Georgiyf called Copcea in Rusaian, the word Copeek has been derived. 1 Denga, or Denushka s= 1-2 a Copeek, 1 Polushka, the smallest coin of Russia ss 1^ Do. N. B. The Pohuhka takes its name from a hare sUn, Ushka Twhich before the use of money was one- of the lowest articles of excnange) Pol signifying half; and Polnshka half a Harems akin. The gold coinage of Russia is searedy aver seen. It consists principally of dncats, the first of which were struck by Peter the Great, worth two roubles and twenty five copeeks each. When the author was in Petersburgh, a coinage was going on at the mint, day and night, for the private use of the emperour Paul, of seventy three poud of gold ; the whde of which was made into dneats. The mint was worthed by steam engines. * Jdid. p. 187. wc/. ^ chap, ^, iGeor^. JDewript, dt Si. Peter$, p. Wl. Seat. S/Chap, a. CHAPTER I. ^ETERSBURGBL PreHminary Observations — State ^ PMiek Jffair^^ Strange Conduct of the E^nperour'^ InsoUnee of the Po** Uce — Extraordinary Phenonunon* IT has probablj happened to others, as to myself, to east mi eye of wishfoi earioaity towards the eastern boon- daries of Europe. Above two thousand years ago they were the same they now are. The Tanais, watering the plains of 8amialia, separated the Roxolani and the Jazyges from tKe Hamaxobii and the Alani. In modern seograpbT, \he same river, altered in its appellation, divides the tnbe et Don Cossaeks from tbat ^t the Tshernomorski, whose ter- ritory extends fma the Sea of Azof to the Kuban. The Greeks, by their eommerce in the jBttiine, derived a slight knowledge of tlie people who lived on the Palus Meeotis. The wars of Russia and Turkey directed our attention sometimes to the inhabitants of the same eoontry $ but the knowledge of them, both among the aneients and modems, has seareely exceeded the names of their tribes and thoir character in war. ' With their domestick habits, the pro- dnetions of their dountry, the nature of its seenery, the remains of antiquity they possess, we are very little aequaiu* ted. By referrius to ancient history, we find that the same want of information prevailed formerly as at present This may be aecounted for from the wandering disposition of the people, who were seldom settled for any leng^ of time vpon the same spot : and with regard to their successors, •kiee the nigratioi] of the Poles to the marshes of the ]>on, and the expnlsion of the Kuban Tartars by the Cossacks of tlie Black 8ea, their eonatry has been submitted to very little examination. It was among these people that the politieal diierenees of England and Russia drove me a willing exile from the cities of Fetecsbai^k and Moscow, in the last year of the eighteenth century. Necessity and B 2 CLARKE'S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. ioelioation were coupled together $ and I had the double satisfactioQ of escaping from the persecution of the enemies of my country, and of exploring regions which, in the wannest sallies of hope, I had never thought it would be my destiny to visit In the course of this journey, through extensive plains which have been improperly called deserts, and among a secluded people who, witaas little ret^on, have been deemed savages, 1 had certainly neither the luxuries and dissipation of polished cities, nor the opportunities of indolence, to in- terrupt my attention to my journal. If, therefore, it fails to interest the publiek, I have no excuse to offer. I present it to them as similar as possible to the state in which notes taken on the spot were made ; containing whatever my fee- ble abilities were qualified to procure for their information and amusement ; and adhering, as far as I am conscious, in every representation, strictly to the truth. After suffering a number of indignities, in eommon with others of my countrymen, during our residence in Peters- burgh, about the middle of March, 1800, matters grew to tuch extremities, that our excellent ambassadour, sir Charles [now Lord] Whitworth, found it nesessary to advise vs to go to Moscow. A passport had been denied to his courier to proceed with despatches to England. In answer to the demand made by our minister for an explanation, it was stated to be the emperour^s pleasure* In consequence of which, sir Charles enclosed tJie note containing his de- mand, and the emperour's answer, in a letter to the English government, which he committed to the postoffice with very great doubts of its safety. In the mean time, every day brought with it some new example of the sovereign's absurdities and tyranny, which seemed «o originate in absolute insanity. The sledge of count Razumoffski was, by the emperour's order, broken into small pieces, while he stood by and directed the work. The horses had been found with it in the streets, without their driver. It happened to be of a blue colour $ and the eount's servants m ore red liveries ; upon which a ukase was immediately published, prohibiting, throughout, the empire of all the Uussias, the use of blue colour in ornamenting sledges, aiid red liveries. In eonsequence of this wise decree, our ambassadour, and many others, were compelled to alter their equipage. PETKRSdt7R6H» t One evening, being at his theatre in the Retnita^, a French piece was performed, in which the story of the En- glish powder plot was introdaced. The emperour was observed to listen to it with more than nsnal attention ; and as soon as it was conehided, he ordered all the vaults be* Death the palace to be searched. Coming down the street called the Perspective, he per- ceived a nobleman who was taking his wals, and had stop- ped to look at some workmen who were planting trees by the emperour's order. ^' What are yon doing ?" said he. ^ Merely seeing the men work," replied the nobleman. << Oh, is that your employment P Take off his pelisse, and give him a spade I There, now, work yourself !" When enraged, he lost all command of himself, which sometimes gave rise to very ludicrous scenes. The courtiers knew very well when the storm was coming on, by a trick, which he had in those moments, of blowing from his under lip against the end of his nose. In one of his furious pas- sions, flourishing his cane about, he struck by accident the branch of a large glass lustre, and broke it. As soon as he perceived what had happened, he attacked the lustre in ^od earnest, and did not give up his work until he had en- tirely demolished it. In the rare intervals of better temper, his good humour was betrayed by an uncouth way of swinging his legs and feet abont in walking. Upon those occasions he was sure to talk with indecency and foil v. But the instances were few m which the gloom, spread over a great metropolis, by the madness and malevolence of a suspicions tyrant, was enlivened even by his ribaldry. Tha.accounts of the Spanish inquisition do not afford more Eainful sensations than were excited in viewing the state of tnssia at this time. Hardly a day passed without unjust punishment. It seemed as if half the nobles in the empire were to be sent exiles to Siberia. Those who were able to leave Petersburgh went to Moscow. It was in vain they applied for permission to leave the country 5 the very request might incur banishment to the mines. If any family received visiters in an evening ; if four people were seen walking together ; if any one spoke too loud, or whistled, or sang, or looked too inquisitive, and examined any pub- lick building with too much attention, they were in immi- nent dan^r. If they stood still in the streets, or frequented &ny particular walk more than another, or wsdked too fast 4 Clarke's travels ih Russia. or too slow, tbej^ were liable to be reprimoiided and insulted hj the police offieers. Mun^ Park was hardly exposed to l^ater severity of exaction and of villanj among the Moors in Africa, than Englishmen experienced at that time in Russia, and particularly in Petersburgh. They were com- pelled to wear a dress regulated by the police; and as every officer had a different notion of the mode of observing these regulations, they were constantly liable to be inter- rupted in the streets and publiek places, and treated with impertinence. The dress consisted of a cocked hat, or, for want of one, a round hat pinned up with three comers $ a long cue; a single breasted coat and waistcoat; knee buckles instead of strings; and buckles in the shoes. Orders, were given to arrest any person seen in pantaloons. A servant was taken out of his sledge, and caned in the streets, for having too thick a neckcloth ; and if it had been too thin, he would have met a similar punishment. After every precantion, the dress, when pot on, never satisfied ; either the hat was not straight on the head, the hair too short, or the coat was not cut square enough. A lady at court wore her hair rather lower in the neck than was coa^ sistent with the decree, and she was ordered into close confinement, to be fed on bread and water. A gentleman's hair fell a little over his forehead, while dancing at a ball $ a police officer attacked him with rudeness and with abuse ^ and told him, if he did not instantly cut his hair he would find a soldier who could shave his head.* When the ukase first appeared eoncemins^ the form of the hat, the son of an English merchant, with a view te baffle the police, appeared in the streets of Petersbui^, having on his head an English hunting cap, at sight of which the nolice officers were puzzled. '^ It was not a eocked hat,^ they said, <^ neither was it a round hat." In this embarresment they reported the affair to the emneroar^ /t ukase was accordingly promulgated, and levellea at the hunting cap ; but not knowing how to describe the anomaly^ the emperour ordained, that '^ no pgraon should tippear m publiek with thi thing on his head worn by the merehanfs $onJ^ An order against wearing boots with coloured tops was most rigorously enforced. The police officers stopped a gentleman driving through the streets in a pair of English * A mode in whwih erimiBSiIs fve poniched in Rottis. imls. Th« ^nllemiui expottu1aUHl» mying tbat he had no oihen with him^ and eertainly would not eut off the topi of his bcots ; upon whieh the officers^ eaeh seizui^ a le^, aa he sat in his droski, fell to work, and drew off his boots, leaving him to go barefooted home. If Enslishmen ventured to notice any of these enormitiea in their Tetters, whieh were all opened and read by the po- liee, or expressed themselves witn energy in praise of their own eountry, or used a single sentiment or expression offen* sive or ineomprehensible to the police officers or their spies, they were liaUe to be torn in an instant, without any pre- vious notice, from their families and friends, thrown into a sledge, and hurried off to the frontier, or to Siberia. Many persons were said to have been privately murdered, and more were banished. Never was there a system of admin- istration more offensive in the eyes of Gud or man. A veteran officer, who had served fifty years in the Russian army, and attained the rank of colonel, was broken without the smallest reason. Above a hundred officers met wit^ their discharge, all of whom were ruined; and many others .were condemned to suffer imprisonment or severer punish- ment. The cause of all this was said to be the emperour's ill humour ; and when the cause of that ill humour became known, it appeared that bis mistress, who detested him, had solicited permission to marry an officer, to whom she waa betrothed. To such excessive cruelty did his rage carry him, against the author of an epigram, in which his reign had been contrasted with his mother's, that be ordered hi» tongue to be eut out; and sent him to one of those remote islands, in the Aleoutan tract on the northwest eoast of America, which are inhabited by savages.* Viewing the career of such men, who, like a whirlwind^ work their prepress through the ages in which they live, by a track of desolation, can we wonder at the stories we reaa of regicides ? " There is something," says Mr. Park, " in the frown of a tyrant, which rouses the most inward emo<> * Thelbllowfcig iitbe sense oC that memoruMe epi^rMn, lieoordin^ t» ^Ufferent traoslations In French and in English. It onginated in the empe* rmtr Paal'a attempting to finjrfi with brick work the beautiful church off St Isaac, whieh his predeeesscfr Catherine had begun in marble. De deux regnes voiei I'image allegorique : La base est d'un beau marbre, et le somet de briquef This great monument is emblematick of two reigns i The bottoni is of narhle^ and the top of brick i i- CLAUKE's TRAVKI3 01 XX»SIA^ tioiM ef tht ffdol." In the jiiiMpeet of dimttaf, ef etlMOity^ and! of sorrow ; manknid might experieate in the reif;n of Paul, I Mt an inward, and, as the event has proved, a triia pre-sentiment oi his approaehing death ; ano I will fjreely confess, mneh as I ahhor the tnaimer of It, that it was -^^ a consammafion "DeToaOj U> be visb^" The season began to ehange before we left Petersbnrgli. The cold became daily less intense ; and the inhabitants were busied in moving from the Neva large bloeks of ice into their cellars. A most interesting and remarkable phe- nomenon took place the day before onr departirre. The thermometer of Celsius stood at that time oiuj five degrees helow the freezing point, and there was no wind. Snow, in the most regular and beautiful crystals, fell gently on our clothes, and on the sledge, as we were driving in the streets. All of them possessed exactly the same figure, and the same dimension. Every particle eonsisted of a wheel or star, with six equal rays, bounded by circu inferences of equal dia- meters ; they had ^U of them the same number of rays branching from a common centre. The size of each of these little stars was equal to the circle presented by dividing a pea into two equal parts. This appearance continued du- ring three hours, in which time no other snow fell ; and there was suflSeient leisure to examine them with the strictest attention. As water, in its crystallization, seems to consist of radii diverging fVoQi a common centre, by the usual appearance!! on the surface of ice, it might be possible to obtain the theo^ ry, and to ascertain the laws, from which this stellar struc- ture results. Monge, president of the National institute of Paris, noticed, in falling snow, stars with six equal rays, which fell, during winter, when the atmosphere was calm. Uauy records this, in his observations on the muriat of am- monia.* The first droskij^ had made ita appearance in the streets of Petersbgd^ before we left ii^ am we began to entertain * <* U en r^sulte dcs ^toQei k rix rwotkBy lonque le temps evt valine, et qae la temperature n'est pas asvez el&T^ pOHr .4efoi>oier lea cnwu^" Uaut, Traiie de Min. torn. il. p. 386. t The ]»KosKi is a kind of bec^h upon four wheoli, used in Rusua as onr luwknejr coaehes ; it contains four or six persons, sitting baek to back, thus driven sideways by the coachman, who sits at the end of the beuolfc TWa vehkkMKcecilillMsledsc, after the mekiDs; of 6ie snow. ntiOH rSTUMtf 1100 TO 1C0900W. 7 •emni ^ii^feliftaiuait tfcftt the mow would fiiil, tsd our «fe<^e»wiiy to Moieow be 4e»(royed. We ka^ olleii been tM Qf the f^fUitf wtih wbi^h the wanp seat om mfJies ite •ppeftranee in this tlim^i there being hardly^ any iaterval ^spring, hiH e.nidQMi»tiii«t4iitiiseea» tnuMitian from win- ter to »uwoier. The frozen provisions of the eity, if not eonsumed by the appointed ti«ie, wbieh may be generally eoAjectured to a day almost instantly pntrify when the fro^t jUsappears. CHAPTER n. JOURNEY FROM PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Departure from Petershurgh — Manner of Travelling'^ Talace ofTmrskoselo'^Gardens-^neeaote ofBiUingA Emjedition to the Northwest Coast of Amjerica^-^Ledyar4 ''■^barbarous Decoration of the JSpartments — Arrival at J)rovogorod — Caihedral — Ancient Greek Paintings*^ Manner of imitating them in Russia-^^Superstitions of the Greek Church — Virgin with three Eand8^''*Story of her Origin'^Mussian Bogh. *VWTE set out on the morning of the third of April, iSOO, jjf and arrived) with great expedition, at Tsarskoselo. Oar carriage had been placed upon a traineau^ or sledge ; and another sledge, which followed us, conveyed the wheels. It is worth while to be partieqlar in describing our mode of travelling, that others may derive advantage from it* If the journey is confined to countries only where a sledge road may be had, the common method, used by the inhabitants,^ always the best ; but if a passage is to hie effected with ease and expedition, from one climate to anoth^, some plao Viximi be determined whi<^h may ^eenne the traveller from the rigours of the seasons, without impeding his progress 1^ snperflnoos incumbraoae. For this purpose, the kind of carriage called a German katarde is unquestionably the most eonvenient. A delineaition is giren in the.worfc of ReieliAPd,* who also mentions the expense ofbnlMing tbcNtt at Vienna, where they are made for one fourth of the monejr required by the London eoach makers; and they answer every purpose of travellini^, full as well as those made in England. This carriage is nothing more thiui an Englisk chariot with aiormeuse, which advances in front^and which should be made sufficiently high to furnish a eofflmodious teat for two persons on the outside^ upon the springs. We made the driver always sit upon the trunk, in front ; but it would be better to provide for him a little chair, raised for that purpose. The door of the dormeusey within the ear- riaee, lets down upon the seat; and it contains leather cushions, and a pinow covered with thin leather. The carriage has besides, an imperial, a well, a swordease, which may be converted into a small library ; and, instead of a window behind, a large lamp, so constructed as to throw a strong light without dazzling the eyes of those within* Thus provided, a person may travel night and day, fearless of want of accommodation or houses of repose. His ci^riag^ is his home, which accompanies him every where ; and if he chooses to halt, or accidents oblige him to stop in the midst of a forest, or a desert, he may sleep, eat, drink, read, write, or amuse himself with any portable, musical instru- ment, careless of the frosts of the north, or the dews, the mosquitoes, and vermin of the south. Over snowy regions^ he places his house upon a sledge, and, when the snow melts, upon its wheels ; heine always careful, where wheels are used for long journeys tlirough hot countries, to soak them in water, whenever he stops for the night. Setting out from Petersburgh for the south of Russia, the traveller bids adieu to all thoughts of inns, or even houses with the common necessaries or bread and water. He wiH not even find clean straw, if he should speculate upon the chance of a bed. Every thing he may want, must, therefore, be taken with him. A pewter teapot will become of more importance than a chest of plate, and more so than oiie of silver, because it will not be stolen, and may be kept equally elean and entire. To this he will add, a kettle, a saueepanr, the top of which may be used for a dish ; tea, sugar, and a large cheese, with several lof>ves of bread, made into rusks, and as much fresh bread as he thinks will keep till he has a chance of procuring more. Then, while the frost contimies^ * Gfude dt Yoyageorf en Europe^ torn. u. planche JL FR,QM FST&BSBUR&a TO MOSCO^. t he say earry frozen it>ed, such as g^arae, or fish, whieh, be- lli^ eonp^aled, and as hard as fliots, maj jolt aboai among hh kettles, in tke well of the earrias^e, withoot any ehanee of iDJarj. Wine may be used in a eoTd eountry, bat never in a hot, nor even in a temperate elimate, while upon the road. In hot eoantries, if a eask of sood vinesar can be proeored, the traveller will often bless the means by which it was ob- tained. When, with a parched tongne, a dry and feverish skin, they bring him bad or g^d water to assttaee his burn- ing thirst, the addition of a little vinegar will make the draught delieious. Care must be taken not to use it to excess, for it is sometimes so tempting a remedy against somnolency, that it is hardly possible to resist using the vinegar withont any adulteration of water. The palace of Tsardcoseio is twenty-two versis ft'om Pe« tershnrsb, and the only object worth notice between that eity and Novorogood. It is built of brick, plastered over* Before the edifiee is a large eonrt, surrounded bv low bnild- ings for the kitchens, and other ooilioiises. The front of the ^laee occupies an extent of near eight hundred feet | and it is entirefv covered, in a most barbarous taste, with folumns, and pilasters, and eartatides, stuck between the windows; all of which, in the true st^le of Dutch ginger- breads are gilded. The whole of the building is a compound of what an architect ought to avoid rather than to imi- tate. Tet, so much money has been spent upon it, and partieularty on the interiour, that it eannot be passed with- out notiee. It was built 1^ the empress Elizabeth ; asd was mueh the residenee of Catharine, in the latter part itf her life, when her favourites, no longer the objects of a licentious passion, were ehasen more as adopted children than as lovers. In the gardens of this palace, persons, who wished to gain an audience of the empress, used to place themselves when she descended for her daily walk. A complaint, from ivhieh she suffered in her li^s, made her introduce the very expensive alteration of converting the staircase of the Her- mitage, at Petersburgh, intu am inclined plane, which offered a more eommodjous and more easy descent. A similar al- teration was introduced at Tsarskoselo, which conducted her from the apartments of the palace into the garden. It was in one of those walks, as professor Pallas afterwards informed me, that eommodore Billings obtained, by a stratagem? her final order ibr his expe^itioii to the norths io olarke's travels in utrssiA. west coast of America. Bezborodko, the minister, althongk he had receiyed the empress's order, put him off from time to time, not choosing to advance the money requisite for the (different preparations ; and Billings began to fear the Slan would never be put in execution. In the midst of his espondenej, professor Pallas undertook to make the mat- ter known to the empress, and advised commodore Billings to accompany him to Tsarskoselo. As soon as they arrived, Pallas conducted him to a part of the garden which he knew the empress would frequent at her usual hour ; and Iilacing themselves in one of the walks, they had not waited ong before she made her appearance. With her nsu&t affability, she entered into conversation with professor Pallas ; and, after inquiries respecting his health, asked the name of the young officer, his companion. The pro- fessor informed her, and added, he is the person whoDt your majesty was pleased to appoint, in consequence of my reeommendation, to the command of the expedition destined for the northwest coast of America. " And what," said the empress, << has delayed his departure P" ^* He wJEiits, at this moment, your majesty's orders," replied the pro- fessor. At this the empress, without any reply, and evi- dently somewhat ruffled, quickened her pace towards the palace. The next morning the necessary supplies came from the minister^ with orders that he should set out imme- diately. That the expedition might have been confided to better hands, the publick have been since informed, by the secre- tary Sauer.* This professor Pallas lamented to have dis- covered, when it was too late. But the loss sustained by any incapacity in the persons employed to conduct that expedition, is not equal to that which the publick suffered by the sudden recall of the unfortunate Ledyard^ which, it is said, would never have happened but through the jea- lousy of his own countrymen, whom he chanced to encounter as he was upon the point of quitting the eastern continent for America, and who caused the information to be sent to Petersburgh which occasioned the order for his arrest. The gar^lens of Tsarskoselo are laid out in the English taste, and, therefore, the only novelty belonging to them is their situation ; so far removed from the nation whose ideas they pretend to represent. • • See Account of an Expedition to the Northern Parts of Russia, U%» hj MftTtifl Sftuer, 8e«re|iii7 to tlie BTp«ditioa. 4to. Loadon. 18Q2. nOM PETfi&SBURGH TO MOSCOW. li The interioor of the building presents a number of spa- eioQ§ and e;audy rooms, fitted up in a style eombininf^ a mixture of barbaritjand magnifieence which will hardly be credited. The walls of one of the rooms are entirely eovered with fine pictures, by the best of the Flemish^ and by other masters. They are fitted toi^ther, without frames, so as to coyer, on each side, the whole of the wall, without the smallest attention to disposition or general effect. But, to consummate the Vandalism of those who directed the work, when they found a place they could not couTeniently fill, the pictures were cut, in order to adapt them to the accidental spaces left vacant. The soldiers of Mummius, at the saek- ing of Corinth, would have been puzzled to contrive more ingenious destruction of the fine arts. Some of Ostades' best works were among the number of those thus ruined. I was also assured, hy authority I shall not venture to name» that a profusion of pictures of the Flemish school were then lying in a cellar of the palace. But the most extraordinary apartment, and that which usually attracts the notiee of strangers, more than any other, is a room, about thirty feet square, entirely covered on all sides, from top to bottom, with amber; a lamentable waste of innumerable specimens of a substance, which could nowhere have been so ill em- ployed. The effect produces neither beauty nor magnifi- eence. It would have been better employed even in orna- menting the Jieads of Turkish pipes ; a custom which eonsumes the greatest quantity of this beautiful mineral. The appearance made by it on the walls is dull and heavy. It was a present from the king of Prussia. In an apart- ment prepared for prince Potemkin, the fioor was covered with different sorts of e&otiek wood, interlaid; the expense of which amounted to a hundred roubles for every squared archine. A profusion of gilding appears in many of the other rooms. The ballroom is a hundred and forty feet long, by fifty two feet wide, and two stories high. The waUs and pilasters of another apartment were ornamented with lapis lazuli, as well as the tables it contained. The Cabinet of Mirrors is a small room, lined with large pier glasses, looking upon a terrace, near which is a covered gallery, above two hundred and sixty feet long. There are various statues about the house and gardens, in marble and in bronze, all without merit. The chapel is entirely of gilded wood, and very richly ornamented. iH Clarke's travels iir Russia. A small flower garden leads to the bath, ivhteh is orna- mented with jasper, agates, and statues and colamns of marble. The grotto is also adonied in the same way with a nomber of beautiful products of the mineral kingdom, wrought into eolumns, busts, has reliefs, vases, &e. among others, a vase composed of the preeious stones of Siberia. From this grotto is seen a lake, on which appears the rostral column to Orlof, which the empress erected in honour of the naval victory he obtained over the Turks at Tchesm^. After we left Tsarskoselo, the snow diminished veryfast, and our fears of reaching Moscow on sledges increased.* But, during the night, and part of the morning of the 4th of April, it fell in such abundance, that all trace of the roads disappeared, and we lost our way once or twice before we arrived at NOVOGOROD. The place was half buried in snow; hut we managed to get to the cathedral, curious to see the collection of pic- tures, idols of the Greek church, which that aucient building contains ; and which, with many others dispersed in the cities and towns of Russia, were introduced long before the art of painting was practised in Italy. The knowledge of this circumstance, led me to hope that I should make some verv eurious acquisitions in the country; and, upon my first arrival from the Swedish frontier, I had given a few pounds to a Russian officer for his god ; which consisted of an oval plate of copper, on which the figure of a warriour was beautifully painted, on a ^old ground. This warriour proved afterwards to be St. Alexander Nevski. And as I advanced through the country to Petersburg!!, there was hardly a hut, or a post houJe, that did not contain one or more paintings, upon small pannels of wood; th^ figures of which were represented, after the manner of the earliest specimens of the art, upon a gold ground, and sometimes protected in ttont by a silver coat of mail, which left only the faces and hands of the images visible. A small attention to the history and character of the Russians wiH explain the cause. • The earria^e road from Petersburgh to Moeeow, a dbtanee of near 500 miles, m the summer season, consists of the trunks of trees laid across. ^ In consequence of the jolting these occanon, it n tSiea one of the most painful and tedious journies in Europe. When tiie religion^ of the Greek ehureh was first intro- ^oeed into Russia, its propa^tors,prohibi ted bytheseeond eommandment iVom the worship of carved images, brou^t with them the pictures of the saints, of the vir^n, and the Messiah. The earliest ehnrehes in the holy land had paint- ings of this kind, which the first Christians worshipped ; as maj be proved by the remains of them at this time in that country.* To protect these holy symbols of the new faith from tne rude, but zealous fingers and lips of its votaries, in a country where the arts of multiplying them by imitation were then unknown, they were covered by plates of the most precious metals, which left the features alone visible. As soon as the messengers of the gospel died, they became themselves saints, and were worshipped by their followers. The pietnres they had brought were then suspended in the churebes,«nd regarded as the most preeions reltcks. Many of them, preserved now in Russia, are considered as having i he power of working miracles. It would, 1 hen, necessarily follow, that with new preachers, new pictures mnst be required. The Russians, characterised at this day by a talent of imitation, though without a spark of inventive penius, followed, hot only the style of the original painting, bat the manner of laying it on, and the materials on which it was placed. Thus we find, at the end of the eighteenth century, a Russian peasant placing before his bogh, a pic- ture, purchased in the markets of Moscow and Petersburgh, exactly similar to those brought l\rom Greece during the tenth ; the same stiff representation of figures which tho Greeks themselves seem to have origins ly copied from works in mosaiek ; the same mode of mixing and laying on the colours on a plain gold surface ; the same custom of painting upon wood ; and the same expensive covering of a silver eoat of mail ; when, from the multitude and cheap- ness of such pictures, the precaution, at first used to pre- serve them, is no longer necessary. ' In other instances of their religion, the copy of sacred relicks seems, to the Rus- sians, as much an object of worship as the origiiTal. This will appear by the description of Moscow ; in the neigh- boarhood &f which city is a building erected, at prodigious * Amofig tbe raim 9f 901116 of the most ancient eburcbes in PalesUne, I foond seTeral curious example* of encaustick paining, of a very eariy datt. One of these, {k*om S^pboris, near Nacftreth, it now in the poAsession of ths proidpaltibrsiJwa ot'^lie Umreenity of Osmbri^, to mkom I proseut- cdit. 14 Clarke's, TRAv&Lft in Russia. * expense* In imitation oftUe chiireh of tlie holy sepulehre at Jerusalem ; having exaetiy the sam^ form, and eontainlng a faithful reprei^cntution of the same absurdities. The cathedral of NoFogorod, dedicated to St« Sophia, in imitation of the name given to the magnificent edifiee erected hy Justinian at Constantinople, was built in the eleventh eentury. Aiaiiy of the pictures seem to have been therefrom the time in whidb the chureh was finished, ajid doubtless were some of them painted long before its consecration^ if they were not brought into the country with the introduc- tion fif Christianity. At any rate, we may eonsider them as having originated from the source whence Italy derived a knowledge of the art, though prior to its appearance in that eountry. Little ean be said of the nijerit of any of them. They are more remarkable for singularity than beauty. In the dome of a sort of antiehapel, as you enter, are seen the representations of monsters with many heads, and such a strange assemblage of imaginary beings, that it might be supposed a pagan, rather tiiaa a Christian temple. The dine rent representations of the virgin, throughout Russia^ will show to what a pitch of absurdity superstition has been carried. I believe roost of them are found in all their prin- cipal churches; and as their worship forms so conspicuous a feature in the manners of the Russians, it will be proper to annex fac similes of those pictures which have the great- est number of votaries; for though tliey are all objects of adoration, they have each of them particular places, in which, as tiUeiary deities, they obtain more peculiar rev- erence; and sometimes small chapels and churches, dedi^ cated particularly to some one of them individually. These are, principally, The Virgin of Vladimir; The Virgin with the Bleeding Cheek; and — spectatum adndssi^ risum ieneatis ? — The Virgin with three Hands ! The authors of the Universal History appropriate this last picture to tb'6 church of the convent of the New Jerusalem. I believe it to have been originally painted, as a barbarous representSr tion, or symbol, of the trinity; ami, therefore, it more properly applies to another convent in the neighbourhood of Moscow. The following story has, however, been eirr ciliated, concerning its history. An artist, being einployod on a picture of the Virgin and Child, found, one day, that, instead of two hands, which he had git en the Virgin, a third had been added, during his absence from his work. Supposing some person had beejL NOVOOOROD. ±B playing a triek with him, he rubbed out the third hand, andt baring finished the pietare, earefuHy loeked the door of his rrtment. To his e;reat surprise, he found, the next day» extraordinary addi^on of a third hand in his picture, a» before. He now began to be alarmed ; but, still ooneluding- it possible that some person had gained aeeess to his room^ he onee more rubbed out the superfluous hand, and not only loeked the door, but also barrieadoed the windows. The next day, approaching his elaboratory, he found the door and windows fast, aske had left them; but, to his utter dismay and astonishment, as he went in, there appeared the same remarkable alteration in his pieture, the virgiu ap- pearing with three hands, regularly disposed about the child. In extreme trepidation, he began to eross himself, and proceeded onee more to alter the picture; when the yimn herself appeared in person, and bade him forbear^ as it was her pleasure to be so represented. Many of those absurd representations are said to be the work of angels. In the Greek church they followeil the idols of paganism, and have continued to maintain their place. They are one of the first and most curious sights which attract a traveller's notice; for it is not only in &w charehes that such paintings are preserved; every room throughout the empire has a picture of this nature, large or gmall, called the bogh, or god, stuck up in one corner ; to which every person who. eaters offers adoration, before any salutation is made to the master or mistress of the house ; and this adoration consists in a quick motion of the light hand in crossing, the head bowing all the time, in a nranner so rapid and ludicrous, that it reminds one of those Chinese mandarin images, seen upon the chimney pieces of old houses, which, when set a going, continue nodding, for (he amusement of old women and children. In the myriads of idol paintings dispersed throughout the empire, the suh^ jjects represented aro very various^ ©HAPTEE HI. NOVOGOROt). Ancient History ofJ^^ogorod-^First Churches in Aussia ^^Procopius — Evas^rius — Baptism of Olga^ ^tefward$ Helena — Arms of Mvogoroa — Ceremony of Crossing — General Picture cf this Route — Heights ^ Viddai-^ Costume — Tumuli— Jedrova — Domestick Jmmnersofihe Peasants — Servile State of the Empire — Vyshnei Volos- holc — Torshok Tver^—JiUlanese Vagrants-^ Volga — Tumuli-^^Klin — Petrovski — Arrival at Moscow — Juliet —■Accommodations. THE melancholy ideas excited by the preient appear- ance of Novogorod have been felt by all traTeilers. Who has not heard tire ancient sayings which went forth in the days of its greatness?* Nomade Slavonians were it|i founders, about' the time the Saxons, invited by Vortigera^ first came into Britain. Four centuries ^fler, A. D. 450, a motley tribe, collected from the oris;inal inhabitants of all the watery and sandy plains around the Finland Gulph, made it their metropolis. Near a thousand years have passed away, since Rurick, the Norman, gathering them together at the mouth of the Volchova, laiiTthe foundation o/an empire, destined to extend over the vast territories of all the Russias; then ascending the river,, to the spot wherQ if s rapid eurreqt rushes from the Ilmen to the Ladoga Lake, he fixed his residence in Novogorod. In the midst of those intestine divisions, which resulted from the partition of the empire, i^t the death of Yladimip, who divided his estate between his twelve sons, there arose three independent princes, and a number of Jietty eonfede^ lacies. The seat of government was successively removed • ** QxoB eontra Deos; ct Magnwn Novocoi'di^^tp?'^ ** W^ooan retist tbe God9, Mrf Great KoTOfoifd ?** frmh IVcrrogonid^^to Soxedal, Vladimir, aod Moscow. Koto- gfirod adopted a mixed spverninent, partly moDarohieiU and partly republican. Id the middle of the thirteeoth eea- turj it was distinf^iitshed bj the victories of its i^rand doke* Alexander Nevski, orer the Swedes, on the banks of the Neva ; and by its remote situatfou, escaped the ravaf^es of the Tartars in the fourteenth. In the fifteenth, it sub- mitted to the yoke of Ivan the first, whose sueeessor, Ivaa the second, in the sixteenth, ravaged and desolated the plaee carryins; away the palladium of the city, the famous bell, which tlie inhabitants had dignified with theappella- tion of EtemnL But its ruin was not fully accomplished- until the bmldin^of Fetersburgk when all the eonimerce of the Baliiek was transferred to that capital. Bodies, miraculously preserved, or rather mummied, of saints who were mortal, a^s as^o, are shown in lite cathe- dral of St. Sophia. This edifice has been described as one of the most ancient in the country. The .first Russian •hurehes were certainly of wood ; and their date is not easily ascertained. Christianity was preached to the iu- habitants of the Don so early as the time of Justinian* That emperour was zealous in building churehes amon^ remote and barbarous people. According to Proeo^iuif^ he caused a church to be erected among ,the Abasgi, in, honour of the Theotocos, and constituted p>riests ainons^ tbeui. The same atttht)r also rdates, that tl%e inhabitant* of Tanais earnestly entreated him to send a bishop among them, whieh was accordingly done. Evagrius Sc^iolasti- ens* has related this circumstance^ as recorded by Procopi- us. Bat hy Tanats is said to be intended that stream^ which runs out of the Mseotis into the Euxine 5 that is t» say, the Cimmerian Bc«phorus, or Straits of Taman. The arrival of a bishop so invitetf, and under sueh patron- age, might be followed by the establishment of a church; and it is probable, from existing documents as well as the traditions of the people, that this really happened cither on the Asiatiek, or tha European side of those Straits,. aboat that time. The jurisdiction of the province after-^ wards annexed to the crown of Russia by Svetoslav the first, father of Vladimir the great, included the isle or Taman,.aod the peninsula of Kertchi. Indthose districts^ therefore^ we might be allowed to place the first tahernaeleni ♦Lib.iv. C.23. • €3 .•;. 18v Clarke's 'xkavsIiS iip rubsia. of ClilifttMUi worfkip^ahk^tt^^tft Ihe ddrtsnt p«rl«d«f timr iiitfodiwiioiiy ute Ibattdmtiofn of tbe RuBmaii empire hiiid 9e»f 60 been laid* It is pleaeing to bring sealtered poi^ tlnis of bfftmry to bear itpos siiy one fomt ^ mrtiett)«i5', vfken by so doing, the obsCTrity o^ some sf them may be elneidaled. The jonmej of Olgft, %rife of Ige^, son of R«» riek, to CovstantTBOtofe^ after arraging the deoth of htf Inietoidiipon ^be yolt^, oeciirred ^^ery early in the awnsle^ of' thftt eonntry. ^ 8iie went,'' say the eompilero of ikm* IMMem Universal Uistory,* << for what reason we know uoty to Cnstantinople." Yet wlien it is rehired, tbat the wair^ boiriised thereat that, in coasequenee of her exaafil^, jnany of her sobje^s beeame eon^rts to Obristiamty $ that' the Rasftians, 16 this day, rank her aiaoag their saints; and? annually eeneidiemorate her festlral) Itie eao«e of her journey wril hardly admit a donbt. The resoh of it proves^* ip#ORie»lably, the introdnetion of Ohristtianity, and the ee^bltdiment of ehurehes in Russia, at an earlier period' than i» ^neraliy admitted ; namely, the bapttom of Viadi^ The reader is reqoested to pardon ai^ proliiitf m Uvs iavestfg^ion of this st^jeet. It is matoitaily connected with the history of the fine arts f for, with€hristiamty, the' art of painting was introdaeed into I^ssia. Borne of the most eiiosen idc^s et their ehureiies are, those eariono^ Greetan piotores, whieh the ilrst gospel nrisBtonanes bron^t with them from Constiuittttopie. Their moeriptions ORea exhibit the Greek eharaeters of these times; and they dfer most interesting examples of the mtf many oeoiorieo before it beeame known to the enlightened nations of Mnropei. » Vol. XXXV. p. 1S2. . f The eraperour, John Zimisces, aoconHng to some histopians, was her jQdfather upon tbis occasion. It has been refeited, that he became enam' oared of the Soytliian princess, and proposed marriage ; vhi«li «im refused. The old lady, notwith0tnMilti& vima at tbii^ time in hn dxtf sketh year^ for she died at the age oT eighty, which baf>pened fiofurteen years after her^ baptism. Collateral annals, by discordant chronology, seem to prove^ that the whole story, about the eastern eraperoar's amoroHS propenaties, Im fomded in erronr and afarandHy^ ZiBusoet waa not craamied uaitil GfaiMt* maa day, A. D. 969. Ten yfiws before this period, Halena ( vhifih was the name horn by Olga, alter her bax>tism} hm sent ambassadours to Oth<v eraperoar of the west, desiring missionaries to instnict her people. A ntission wat conseqaenlly undertsllficni liy St Addter^ hUtmf of Magie*' hwrg, A. D. 962^ ^ Some authors place this eTCOt fooir jmn aftrller. UteTefbOoired the ehroootogy of Du Fresnoy. Nvr ims t&e art of pftindng abae intiwiweJ vrkk Ckrii4B« aakr into Roma. AJl tbey luiew of tettart, or of any oaeHil aad Uberal art, for moaj cenluritt ofterwardt^ wao derirefl firoiv tlw «io« sovrce. Tbo iiiliaVitaiito of th^- Sooth Sea Iclands eaii hardly be more savage tiia» were the Rsniaooy whoa the go^iel wao first prc^icfaed to them. The fttii aeeomplishment of this great erent oertainly did not take place till Vladirtik heoane eonverted. It was m osadkioB of his aiarriago with the tister of the £k<eek em- peroor ; and^ it is said^ that no less than tweaty thoasaad of his solipeets were ehriileaed on the save day. Thia ehanse eSeeted by this awasure was nothine less thaa a* emapiele revolotioa in maaners and ta morats. Vladimir lod the way by his example. The pagan idols^ and eight hitadred ooneubities, were dknnssed togetiter^ aad the twelve sons^ whieh his six wives liad born him, were baptt* aed ; eharehes and monasteries drew around them towns aad villages; and civilization seemed to dawn.apon the^ £[01110 aM the forest!) of Seythia. A memorial of the essed effects of Christianity , among a people who were searoe reaiovod from the bmte ereation, seems preserved, eves in the arms of the government of Novogorod, thft distriot in whieh it was irst established ; and the ludisroaa manner in whieh it is typified^ is eonsistettt with the bai«« hmty of the people. Two bean, supporters, are rfwesea* ted at an altar, upon the ioe, with crneifixes eroMeo before tjie hogh, on whtebis placed a eandelahrom with a tripla kMtroy emblem iff the trkdty. l%e fortress of Novogorod is large, but of wretched ap^ pearanee. It was esnstraeted afier the plan of the Kremlia at Moscow, towards the end of the fifteenth centttry, and contains the cathedral. Upon the bridge, leading to this fortress, ft-om the town, is a small chapel, where every peasant who passes, either deposits his candle or his penny* Before this pkoe, which is filled with old pictures of tbo kind I have described, and which a stranger might really mistake for a ptetare stalls devotees, during the whole day^ may be s^n^ bowing and crossing themselves. A Russiaai hardly commits any action without this previous ceremonv. if he is to serve as*a eoaehman, and drive your carriage, bia erosoittg ooeupies two minoteo bdbre he is momited. vVheii he descends, the same motion is repeated. If a cfanreh is iir ▼lew, yon see him at work with his head and hattd,^u( if seized with St. Yitns's dance. If he makes any earnest 2& protevUtioiiy or enters a room, or goes oat, you are enter- tained with the same manual and capital exercise. Whea beggars return thanks for alms, the operation lasts a lon^^er time ; and then between, the crossing, by way of interlade^ they rienerally touch their forehead to the earth. The snow increased very fast in our way from Norogorod* to Tver ; but afterwards we had barely sudAeient to pass on^ and in some places the earth was bare. The traveller will be more interested in this information than readers at home ; and he will of course compare the observation with the date of the journey [April 6, 7, and 8^ as the weather in Russia is not subject to those irregular vicissitudes experienced in; £m^land. It may generally be ascertained by the calendar. 1 do not know what first gave rise to a notion ^'ery prevalent, that the road from Petersburgh to Moscow is a ' straight line through forests, except that it was the inten-^ tion of Peter the Great to have it so made.* Th^ country is- generally open, a wide and fearful prospect of hopeless ste- rility, where the fir and the dwarf birch, which dover even- Arctick regions, scarcely find existence. The soil is for the most part sandy, and apparently of a nature to set agri- culture at defiance. Towards the latter part of the journe^r eorn-fields appeared, of considerable extent. What the summer roaa may be, 1 a^m unable to say ;^but bur progress was as devious as possible. In all the province or dtstriel of Yaladi, the soil is hilly, not to say mountainous ; so that what with the undulations of the road itself, from the heaps^ of drifted snow, and the rising and sinking of the eoantry^, our motion resembled that of a vessel rolling in aii Atlan- tick calm. My good friend, professor Pallas, experieiioe4 as rough a journey along this route a few years before^ He mentions the delay, and even the danger, i» wliieh he^ was exposed on the Heights of Y Aldai.t ^ preenely siiiii-< lar were the circumstances of the seasons, that in botii^ eases the snow failed in the moment of arrival at Mob- cow. The female peasants of the Valdai have a costume whick resembles one in Switzerland. It consists of a skift with • AVhen Jonas Hanway [Travels, Vol. 1. p. 92.] passed in 1743, only «ne hundred railes had been completed according to the original plan,, nrhich was,, to makeabridgiB of timber £6r the whole distance of tour hun- dred and eighty seven miles. For that space of four hundred miles, accor- dhig to the calculation made by him, no less than.t^vo miilion one hundred' thousand trees were required. t Ti-ayeU-throagh the Soathern Provinces, &c. VoU I. P. 4. full sleeres, and a sbert pettiedat with e«loiir«A ifoekiagt* Oirer this, in winter, ihey wear a pelisse of Iamb's wool, a« w&iCe as the snow around them, lined with eloth, and adorn- ed With gold buttons and lace. The hair ef unmarried women, as in most parts of Russia, is braided, and han^ to a g^reat. leoj^th down their baoks. On their heads thejr wear a handkerchief of coloured silk. When married, the hair is trussed up, and tliis constitutes the outward mark of a virgin, »r a matron. Generally speaking, the traveller maj pass over a vast extent of territory without noticing any change in the costume. How very diftrent is the case in Italy ;; where the mere passage of a bridge, in the same eify^ as at Naples, leads to a different node of dress. The male peasants of Russia are universally habited, in wiatcTf m a jaeket Hiade of sheep's bide, with the wool inwards ; a s^are crowned red cap^ with a circular edge of Mack wool round the rim, which is very becoming, and appears shad« owing the eyes. These, with & long, hlaek beaid, saodalo made of tlie bark of the bireh^tree, and legs bandaged m wooUtji, complete the dresa. Conical mounds of earth, or tnnMli, oecnr very ftef oentljr ta this road. The moat remarkable nay be observed in the stage between Ycasolbisky and Yatdai, on both sides off the road, hut diieiy on the left ; and they eontinue to ap« near froni the latter pkee to Jedrofa. Profbssor Palki* W given m representation of four of those tumali, itt a Y^linette, at the begining of the first volume of his lat» work.* Tbey are common aU over the Russian empire $ aad, indeed, it may be asked^ where the country is, in whick sneh sepokhral hyincks do not appear. We had been pestered the wh^ way fran Peterdbnigk by a bell, whieh the drivers carried, suspended to their bett; birt were tml aware that it passed as a mark of privilege, until we eame to Jedrova. Here we saw a poor fellow cttdfuelled by a police officer, beeanse he had presomed to carry a bell witaout a Poi2erosaioi;t which is the title to tttch a dioliiictiain. The whole journey from Petersbnrgh is Moscow ofiers sothing that will strike a traveller more Uiaa the tonta or * Travels ttutrngh tli« SonCherti "Prtmaaet. kjd t The im^^eriftl order for horse*. Those who travel with post-horses •arrr a bell. It serves, as the horn in Germany, to give notice to persons sa the road to,tui3^ out of th$ way ; such horses h^Ing in the serviee of the si^wn. ' ' ' ^ da CLAREte'S TRAVBL* W &tT«SJIA. Tillage of Jedrova. It eoaiists of one street, as broad' a» Piccadilly, formed by the ^ble ends of wooden huts, whose roofs project fUr over their bases, and terminated by its church. A view of one of these towns affords a eorreet idea of all the rest, as there is seldom any difterence in the mode of eonstriteting the poorer towns of Russia. A windo\Sr in such places is a mark of distinction, and seldom noticed. The houses in general have only small holes, through which, as you drive by, you see a head stack, as in oi pillory. Upon some of the women I observed such stockings a» the Tyrolese wear, eovering only the lower part of the leg, about the ancle, with a sort dt eylinder, formed by spiral hoops of wool. The forests, for the most part, consist of poor, stunted trees $ and the road, in summer, is described as the most ali^omiaable that can be passed. It is then formed by whole trunks of trees,^laid aeross, parallel to each other, which occasion such violent jolting, as the wheels move from one to the other, that it cannot oe born without beds placed for the traveller to sit or lie upon. We had a very interesting peep into the manners of the peasantry ; for which we were indebted to the breaking of our sled^ at Poschol. The woman of the house was prepa- ring a dinner for her fanuly, who were gone to church. It consisted of soup only. Presently her husband, a faoor^ eanie in, attended by his daughters, with some small loaves of white bread, not larger than a pidgeon's egg, which I suppose the priest had consecrated, for they placed them with great care before tiie b4)6h. Then t£te bowing and crossing began,and they went to dinner, all eating out of the same bowl. Dinner ended, they went regularly to bed, as if to pass the night there, orossins and bowing as before. Ha- ying slept about an hour, one of the young women,- accord*^ ing to an etiquette, constantly observed, ^led her father, and preseated him with a pot of vinegar, otqwiss^ the Has- sian beverage.* The man then rose, and a complete fit of crossing and bowing seemed to seize him^ with interludes so inexpressibly eharaetenstiek and • ludicrous, that it was> • It is made by mixing flower and water to|;ether, and leaving it till it has fermented and turned sour. The flavour is like that of vinegar and water. It loolc^ thick, and i»very unpleasing to' strangers; but, by use, we became fond of it; and in the houses of the nobJcs, where attentioa i* |«k] to its brewing^ it U esteemed a dclicac]^, particularly in s,ammer. irerj diffieiilt ii» preserve f^avity. The pausen of serateh- iDg aod grunting, with ail the att^idant cireumstanees of yentriloquism and eruetatiMi; the apostrophes to his wife, to himself, aod to his god, were suefi as drunken Barnahy might have put into Latin, but need not be expressed in English. The pietoii& of Russian masnerg varies little with refer* ence to: the prince or the peasant. The first nobleman in the empire, when dismissed by his sovereign from attend*- anee upon his person, or withdrawing; to his estate, in eonsequenee of dissipation and debt, betakes himself to a mode of life little superioor to that of brntes. Yon will then find him, thpoaghoat the day, with his ne^k bare, his beard lengtliened, his body wrapped in a sheep's hide, eating raw turnips, and drinking quass^ sleeping one half of the day, and growling at his wife aiid family the other. The same feelings, tlie same wants, wishes, and gratifiea- lions, then charaeterize the nobleman and the peasant ; aiid the same system of tyranny, whi^ extends from the throne downwards, through all the bearings and ramifiea* lions of society, even to the cattage of tKe lowest boor^ lias entirely extingnished every spark of liberality in the breasts of a people who are all slaves. They are all, high and low, rich and poor, alike tftrvite tosoperiours ; haughty and eruel to their dep^idants; ignsorant, superstttious, cun- ning brutal, barbarous^ dirtj, mean. The emperour eanes the first of his grandees; princes and nobles cane their slaves^ and the slaves their wives and daughters. Ere the sun .dawns in Russia, fiagellation begins: and^ throughout its vast empire, eudgeb are going, in every de- partmeiit of its population, from morning uiitil night. How forcibly opposed to these eharaeteristicks are the manners of the Swedes! hi the pleasing recollection of the honesty, the benevokaiee, the bravery, and all the manly virtues that adorn the breasts of the inhabitants of Sweden, the contrast is, indeed, painfully striking. When I refieet on the k^ traek over which I have passed, and the raanjr examples of human exeellenee which it has been my lot to witness, I almost repent that I have begun with the joamey among the Russians; lest, from the statement I am eom-' pelled to make, it aJiould be supposed that I have been ac* toated by other motives tlian a love of truth. Vyshnei Veloshok i^ a place of considerable importance^ remarkaUe for the extensive canals on which the great ia-^ iaml naTi^fttiim of Rttssia h <aitiei ^b. A jtjniilion ha» heen formed between the Tvertza and the M^ta, uniting, by a navigable ebamiel of at leant five thousand versts, the Caspian with the Baltick tea. I suspeet thal^there is not in the world an example of inland navigation so extensire, obtained by artifivial means, and with so little labour; for the yo%a is navigable almost to its sonree; and Uiree versts, at the utmost, is all that has been eut through, in forming the eanal. The merchandise of Astroean, anil other parts of the south of Russia, are brought to this plaee. Above ibur thouiMutd vessels pass tlie eanal annnalty. The town, or villag'e^ as It is called, is full of hutldingo and shops. It h spacious, and wears a stalely, thriving ap« pearanee ; fbrmin^ a striking eontrast with the miserable places on this road. At the difierent stations whieh oeenr in the fottte from f^etersburgh to Moscow, are buildings ap«ropri»itod io tbe i&mperour^ use, when he passes. This rarely happens dbove once in a reign. As there is hardly an instanee of aeeont'- modation for travellers, no hax-m would hap|M?n to the build- ings if they were used for that purpose; neither would the national eharaeter suffer by its iMpitality. Of course I apeak of what may be done in better times $ for, when w« traversed the country, hindneos toastn^ger^and especially to an Englishman, was a erimfe of the irst ttagmituae, ana might prove the means of a journey to Siberia. It io but fustice to make this apology for the oondaot of those nu4er the immediate eye of government ; at the same time^i t must he confessed, they made the beot use of an opportuaitj whieh encouraged them to exaetio», plunder, ai^ oppresamis From Vyshnei Yoloshok we eame to Torshok, seventy one versts distunt^ remarkable for a ^inB» which is super- stitiously venerated, ajid brinffs pilgrims from all parl». It has no less than twenty ehorakea, so«e of wjiieh are built of stone, and is a thriving town. At Tver, sixty three verots further, there is adeeent iai. A shop is, also, a«aexed to it, as it olbft liappens in all the northern countries of Europe. Thk oho^to Icqpt bv Italiftiu^ ikatives of the Milanese territory, a vagrant tribe, whoao industry and enterprise carry them fr^n the lake of COI110 to the remotest regions of thee earth. I have oeen them in all countries, and even in Lapleri. Qenorally^ they carry ^ large haskety covered by an oilskin, containing ehaap^ 'eoloimdl prittti^ mrtom^' tlfcBCT>iBirtfrra»..aii4 baro«eti»i» FROM TVER TO HOSCOW* 9^ t^liej are always men of ingenuity, of nneemmon perse- Tcraoee, industry, and, I may add, of honesty. Living with tfae most serupulons economy, they collect^ after many years of wandering, their hard earnings, with which they letum to settle in the land of their fathers, and to send ont ao ofispring as noraade as themselves^ At Tver we beheld the Volga, and not without consider- able interest; for, though bound in ^< thick-ribbed ice," and eorered with snow, the consciousness of its mighty waters, navigable almost to their source, rolling through a course of four thousand versts in extent, bearing wealth and plenty, is one of the most pleasing reflections. It seems to connect 08 with the Qaspian, and the remote tribes of those nations, 80 little known, who dwell upon its shores. « The situation of Tver, upon the lofty banks of the Volga, h very grand. It has a number of stone buildings ; and its sbops, as well as churches, merit particular reeard. The jonction of the Volga and the Tvertza is near the Street of Millions. Pallas speaks of the delicious sterlet, taken from the Volga, with which travellers are regaled in this town, at all seasons of the year. The journey from Tver to Moscow, in the winter, with a kibitki, is performed in fifteen hours. The road is bread and more straight than in the former route from Peters- bnrgh. But in certain seasons, such as those of melting snow, it is as bad as possible. In the second stase from Tver, between the sixth and seventh verst from the post* house on the left hand, appeared an entire groupe of those aneient tumuli before mentioned. They are so perfect in their forms, and so remarkably situated, that they can- not escape notice. I endeavoured to learn of the peasants if they had any tradition concerning them. Ail the information they gave me was, that.they were constructed beyond all memory, and believed to contain bodies of men • slain in battle. A notion, less reasonable, although com- mon to countries widely distant from each other, is, that saeh mounds are the tombs of giant». Thus, on the hills near Cambridge, two are shown as the tombs of Gog and Magog. Ana the tomb of Tityus, the most ancient of all those mentioned in the history of Greece, is described br Homer* as a mound of earth raised over the spot on which that giant fell, warring against the gods. * Pausanitts saw it in Phocit, at the base of ParnasniSy twenlgr stadia irom ChsBrooea ; where I foand it in the year 1801. It is one of those monu^ a^ CLARKE*S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. Ei^lity three versf« iVom Tver we came to a small settle* inent between two hills, which is marked in the Russian map as a town, and called Klin. It hardly merits saefk distinction. On the right, as we left it, appeared one of those houses constructed for the accommodation of the empress Oatherineon her jonrney to the Crimea. The rising towers and «pires of Moscow greeted our eyes six versts before we reached the city. 1 he country around it is flat and open ; and the town, spreading over an immense district, eauals, by its majestick appearance, that of Home when beneld at an equal distance. As we approached the barrier of Moscow, we beheld, on the left, the large palace of Petrovsky, built of brick-work. It wears an appearance of great magnificence, though the style -xif architecture Is cumbrous and heaVy. It was erected for the accommodation of the Russian sdvereigns, during their Tisits to Moscow; the inhabitants of wliich city pretend that none of thetn durst take up a lodging within its walls, being kept much more in awe of their subjects than they are at Pelersburgh. It is said the empress Catherine used to call Moscow her little, haughty republick. This palace IS about four versts from the city. Arriving at the barrier, we were sometime detained dur- ing the examination of oiir passports. This entrance to the city, lirke most of the others, is a gate with two columns, one on each side, sut^mounted by eagles. On the left is the guard-house. Within this cate a number of slaves were employed, removing the mud from the streets, Mhi<^h haid been caused by the melting of the snow. Peasants, with their kibitkiSf* in great numbers, were leading the town. Into thej?e kibilkis, the slaves amused themselves by heap- ing as much of the n^ud as they could throw in, onperceiv- erf by the drivers, who sat in front. The officer appointed to superintend their lahmir chanced to arrive and deteiit them in their lilthy work,andwe hoped he would instantly have Jirohibited such an insult from being offered to the poor men. His eenduet however, only served to afford u trait of the' national character. Instead of preventing aiiy ments which defy time ; a lofty conienl mouncL The story of Homer, c«b- ceroing its origin, ig still related by the natives of the country. • The kibitki is the old Scythian vagon. In some parts of Tartary llie top takes off, and at night becomes a tent. Hence the name' given by the •Bassiaas tothe tents of Uie G^lmuc^s and Nogais ; beth of which thtt^catt Itibitki. MOSCOW.. it further attack upon the kibitkia, lie seemed liii;lily enter- tuned bj the Ingti^iiuitY of ihe eontrivanee ; and to eueour- age the sporty ordered every peasant to halt, and to hold his horse, MliiJe they fiilled his kibitki witk the mud and onliire of the streets ; covering with it the provisions of the poor peasants, and whatever else their kioitkis mia^ht eontain. with, whioh thev were going* peaceably to their wires and families. At last, to eompTete their scandalous oppression, they compelled each peasent, as he passed, to sit down in his kilbilki, and then they covered him also with the black and.stinkine mud. At this unexampled in- stuDce of cruelty and insult, some of the peasants^ more soirited than the rest, ventured to murmur. Instantly, blows, witk a heavy cudgel, on the head and shonlderi, si- lenced Hhe poor wretches' complaints. Before this be^n» the two sentinels at the sAte had stopped every kibitk\ as it passed, with a very duierent motive. First a loud and menacing tone of voice seemed to indicii,te some order •f govemmeat; but it waB q^uiekly silenced^ and became a whisper, in eonseqaence of a smallj piece of money beiiiff slipped into their hands by the peasants, when they passed oa without further notice. If the practice eon^tinues, the post of sentinel at a Russian barrier must be more profitable than tha,t of a stafiT-offieer in the service. I was witness to upwards of fifty extorted eontributions of this nature, ia the course of half an hour, when the plunder ended, as haa keendesoribed* A miserable) whiskered figure on horseback I believe in- l^ded for a, dri^on, waa now appointed to eondact us to thecomgiandant's; ^d beire the jjoderomoiy which he had bought oftlie en^perour in Petersbureh, together with our otkei: passports, andovweat a second examination. The SQow was, by ^his time, entirely melted ; and the sledge, apoa which oar carriage moved, was drag^&d over the stones by six horses, with so mueh diffieulty, that at last the dri vera gav^ it up, aad declared the carriage would breaks or the orses drop, if we compelled them to advance. The dragoon said we must take every thing, exactly as we arrived at the commandant's, and proceed* sitting in the carriage. At the same time, he threatened the peasenfs with a flagella- tion and, giving one of them a blow over his loins, ba<le him ^' halt at his peril.^' Another effort was, of course, made, and the sledge flew to pieces. It was highly amusing to observe the dilemma into which the dragoon was oo^V 28 CLA&KE's travels in RUSSIA. thrown ; as it was not probable either his menaees or his blows would again put the carriage in motion, A droski was procured, on which we were ordered to sit, and thus proceeded to the commandant. From the commandant, we were next ordered to the indendant of the police ; and all jlhis did not save us from the visits, and the insolence, of two or three idle officers, lounging about as spies, who en- tered our apartments, examined every thing we had 5 and askedanamber of impertinent questions, with a view to ex- tort money. Some of them found their way even into our bed- rooms, when we were absent, and gave our servant sufficient employment to prevent them from indulginga strong national tendency to pilfer^ a species of larceny, which actually took place afterM ards, committed by persons much their su» periours in rank. The accommodation for travellers is, beyond descHptioa bad both in Petersburgh and Moscow. In the latter, nothing but necessity would render them sufferable. They demand three roubles a day for a single room, or kennel, in which an Englishman would blush to keep his dogs. The dirt on the floor may be removed only with an iron hoe, or a shovel. Thetfe places are entirely destitute of beds. They consist of bare walls, with two or three old stuffed chairs, rags^ed, rickety, and full of vermin. The walls themselves are still more disgusting ; as the Russians load them with the most abominable filth. In thus giving the result of impressions, made on entering this remarkable city, I might appeal to some of the first families in the empire, for the veracity of my statement ; but such a test of their liberality would materially afifeet their safisty. I shall, therefore, unreservedly^ proceed to relate what I have seen, in that confidence, which a due regard to truth will always inspire. Moscow contains much worth notice; much that may compensate for the fatigue and privation required in going thither ; for the filthiness of its hotels ; the depravity of its nobles ; and the villany of its police. CHAPTER IV. MOSCOW. Ptadiarities of climatB^^Imprtsnrms made on afirsi Arn-- val — Russian Hotel — Persian^ Kirgisianj and fiuckarian dmhassadours — Fasts and Festivals-^'Ceremonies obsen^ at Easter — Palm Slnnday — Holy Thursday — Mamijice^it Ceremony of the Resurrection — Excesses of the ropulae^ — Presentation of the Paschal Eggs — Ball of the Peasants --Ball of the JS^dbles— CJiaracteristick Incident of Caprice in Dress, THERE is nothinj^ more extraordinary in this country than the transition of the seasons. The people oF Moseow hare no spring: winter vanisheSj and summer is/ This is not the work of a week, or a da j, hot of one instant,. and the manner of it exceeds belief. We came fram Peters* burgh to Moscow on sled^. The next day, snoiv was gone*. Ou the eifi^hth of Aprif, at midday, »now beat in at onr car- t\%^. willows. Oq (he same day, at sunset, arriyyig inr Moscow, we had difficulty in being dragged throiigii ther n2U(i to the eommaodant's. The next morning the streets: were dry, the double windows had been removed from the* kouses, the casements thrpwn open, all the carriages were- upon wheels, and the balconies fijlied with spectators.. Another day brought with it twenty-three degrees of heai »f CeUius, when the thermometer was placed in the shades »t noon. We arrived at the season of the year in which this city H most interesting to strangers. Moscow is in every thing: extraordinary, a» well in (Usapppinting expectation, as in? surpassing it ; in causing wonder and derision, pleasure anA regret Let we condu^st the reader back with me again tov tile gate by which we entered, and thence through the^ jtreets. Numerous spires, glittering with gold, amidst bursished dories and painted palaces, appear in the midst ' tf an open plain, for several versts before you reach this ^te. Having {passed, you look ahout, and wonder what i«? •^«o«ie of thie cit^^ or where you are ; and are ready to asky^ ' D2 do Clarke's trav£L» in Russia. once more; How far is it to Moscow ; They will tell yoo ; ^^This is Moscow !" and you behold nothing; but a wide and scattered saburb ; huts^ {gardens, pig^sties, brick walls, chur- ehes, dunghills, palaces, timberyariis, warehouses and a re- fuse, as it were, of materials, sufficient to stock an empire with miserable towns and miserable villages. One might imagine all the states of Europe and Asia had sent a buiU ding, by way of representative, to Moscow ; and, under thk impression, the eye is presented with deputies from all conn- tries, holding congress : timber huts from regions beyond the Arctick ; plastered pallaces from Sweden and Denmark^ not whitewashed since their arrival; painted waits from the Tyrol : mosques from Constantinople ; Tartar templeg from Biicharia; Pagodas, pavilions, and virandas, from China ; cabarets from Spain ; dungeons, prisons, and pub- lick offices, from France ; architectural ruins from Rome, terraces and trellisses from Naples and warehoqses from Wapping. Having heard accounts of its immense population, you wander through deserted streets. Passing suddenly to- wards the quarter where the shops are situated, you might walk upon the heads of thousand!^. The daily throng is there so immense, that, unable to force a passage through it or assign any motive that might convene such a multi- tude,'yon ask the cause; and are told that it is always the same. Nor is the costume less various than the aspect of the buildiugs. Greeks, Turks, Tartars, Cossacks, Chinese, Muscovites, English, French, Italians, Poles, Germans^ all parade in the habits of their respective countries. We were in a Russian inn ; a complete epitome of the city itself. The next room to ours was filled by ambassadour» from Persia. In a chamber beyond the Persians, lodged a party of Kirgisians ; a people yet unknown, and any one of whom might be exhibited in a cage, as some newly dis- covered species. They had bald heads, covered by conical, embroidered caps, and wore sheep's hides. Beyond the Kirgisians lodged a nidus of Bucharians, wild as the asses of Numidia. All these were ambassadours from their different districts, extremely jealous of each other, who had been to Petersburgh, to treat of commerce, peace, and war. The doors of all our chambers opened into one gloo- my passage, so that, sometimes, we all encountered, and^ formed a curious masquerade. The Kirgisians and Bu- charians were best at arms' length f but tbe worthy oU Persian, itrhose naihe was (huTsai^ often exclianeed ▼isita wkb OS. He brought us presents^ aeeordinsi: to the eusten of his countiy ; and was mueh Reused with an En^iah pocket knife we had i^iven him, with whieti he said he shonld shave his head. At his devotions, he stood silent fbr an hoor tog^ether, on two small earpets, barefooted, with his faee towards Meeea ; holding, as he said, intelleetnal eon verse with Mohammed. Orazai eame from Tarkv, near Derbent, on the western shoi?e of the Caspian. He had with him his nephew^ and a Cossaek interpreter from Mount Caoeasus. Hia beard and whiskers were long* and s^rej, thous^h his eje-^ brows and eyes were blaek. On his head he wore a large eap of fine blaek wool. His dress was a jaeket of silk, over which was thrown a large, loose robe of the same materials, edged with gold. His ifeet were eovered with yellow, mo- roeeo slippers, which were without soles, and fitted like gloves. All his suite joined in prayer, morning and even* ing, hut the old man continued his devotions long after he had dismissed his attendants. Their poignards were of sflch excellent iron, that our English swords were abso- lutely cut by them. Imitations of these poignards are sold rn Moscow, but of worse materials than the swords from England. When they sit. which they generally do during the whole day, they have their feet bare. Orazai was very desirous that we should visit Persia; and taking out a reed, and holding it in his left hand, he began to write from n^ht to left, patting down our names, and noting tie informaticH^ we gave him of England. Afterwards he wrote his own hame in fair Persian characters, and gave it to me, as a memorial by which he might recognise me if ever we met in Persia. Upon the journey, they both purchased and sold staves* He cnFered an Indian negro, who acted as his cook, for twelve hundred roubles. An amusing embarrassment took place whenever a little dog of mine Ibund his way into the anTbassadour's room, in search of me. The Persians im* mediately drew up their feet, and hastily caught up all their dothes, retiring as far back as possible upon their conches. They told us, that if a dog touches-even the skirt of their slothing, they are thereby defiled, and cannot say their piujers without changing every thing, and undergoing^ tomplete puri^ation. fitis slaves sometimes played the hmaikay or gaitar with two strings*. The airs- were ver; M eXARKK's TRAVBLS iS RUSSIA. Iirefy, and not nnltke etir Engluk hompipe. Tbe ambfur^ mdour's nephew obliged us by eshibititt«c aPora^an danae, whieh seemed to coBsist of keeping the feet elose togelber, hardly ever Itfting them from the ^onnd, and mo¥4n^ sdovrly, to qniek measure, round the room. TheydrMt healths as we do; and eat with their hands, like the Arabs, all out of one dish, whioh is general ly of boiUit rice. If they eat meat, it is rarely any'other than nHfttan, sitewed into a soup. The young man used to drink the Rhs- sian beverage of hydromel, a kind of mead ^ and some^ times, but rarely, smoked. The ambassadonr never need a^ pine ; whieh surprised me, as the eusfom is almost univer* sal in the east. Their kindness to their slaves is that of parents to ehiidren; the old man appearing, liko aiH>tber Abraham, the common father of all nis attendants^ Thi» dress of their interpreter, who was of the Cossacks of the Volga, though stationed on Mount Caucasus, in the^ territories of the Circassians, was very rich. It consisted of a jacket of purple cloth lined' with siHc, and a silk Waistcoat, both without buttons | a rich shawl round his waist; very large trewsers of scarlet cloth; and a magnifi- eent sabre. Ambassadours of other more oriental hordes drove lote the court-yard of the inn, from Petersburgh. The empe*^ rour had presented each of them with a barouehe. Never was any thing more ludicrous than their appearance. Oul of respect to the sovereign, they had maintained a painful struggle to preserve their seat, sitting cross-legged, like Turks. The soow bavins melted, they had been jolted in this manner over the trunks of trees, which form a timber eause way between Petersburgh and Moscow ; so that, wlie« taken from their fine, new carriages, they could hardly erawl, and-made the most pitiable grimaces imaginable. A few days after coming to Moscow, they orde^ all the earriages to be sold for whatever sura any per/»oa would, •ffer. But it is time to leave our oriental friends and fellow-lodg- ers, that we may give an aeeount of the eeremonies of Easter ; during the preparations for whieh, we had the rood fortune to arrive. The people of Moscow celebrate the Paqm with a degree of pomp and festivity unknown to the rest of Europe. The most splendid pageants of Home do net equal the costliness and splendour of the Russian, ^kiireli. Neither eould Vemce, in Ihe midot of hif imtm^ MOSCOW. 88 ^y ever riyal, in debasi^rj and supentition, ki lieen* tioasness and parade, what passes during this season in Moseow. It shoald first be observed, there are no people who ob- senre Lent withmore serupulous and excessive rigour than the Russians. Travelling the road from Petersburgh to Moseow, if at any time, in poor cottages, where the peas** ants appeared starving, I offered them a part of our dinner, they would shudder at the sight of it, and cast it to the dogs ; dashing out of their children's hands, as an abomin- ation, any food given to them ; and removing every parti- ele that might be left, entirely from their sight. In arink- ing tea with a Cossaek, he not only refused to have milk in his oup, but would not use a spoon that had been in the tea offered him with milk, although wiped earefully in a napkin, until it had passed through scalding water. The same privation prevails among the higher ranks ; but, in proportion as this rigour has been observed, so much the jnore exeessive is the degree of gluttony and relaxation, when the important intelHsenee that << Christ is risen^^ ha« issued from the mouth of the arch-bishop. During Easter, they run into every kind of excess, rolling about drunk the whole week $ as if rioting, debauchery, extravagance, gambling, drinking, and fornication, were as much a ireligious observance, as starving had been before; and that the same superstition which kept them fasting during Lent, had afterwards instigated them to the most beastl j exeesseo. Even their religious customs are perfectly adapted to their elimate and manners. Nothins can be contrived with more ingenious policy to suit the habits of the Russians* When I^nt fasting begins, their stock of frozen provisions is either exhaust^, or unfit for use ; and the interval which takes place allows, sufficient time for procuring, kill- ing, and storing, the fresh provisions of the spring. The night before the famous ceremony of the resurrection, all the markets and shops of Moscow, are seen filled with flesh, butter, eggs, poultry, pigs, and every kind of viand. The crowd ofporchasers is immense. You hardly meet a foot- passenger who has not his hands, nay his arios, filled with Srovisions ; or a single droski that is not ready to break own beneath their weight. The first ceremony which took place, previous to all this feasting, was that of the Faqiie jleurieSj or Palm Sunday* M» CLARRe's TRAVELft IN RUSSIA. Oirthe eve of this da}(, all th# inhaibitiints of M&^e^fm ]«Bort, in carrtases, on horseback, or on foot, to the Kremr lin, for the purchase of palm-branches, to place before their, bo^bs, and to d^eorate the saered pietdres in the streets, or elsewhere. It is one of tiie gayest promenades of the year. The governour, attended by the maitre de poUce^ the eom-^ mamtant, and a train of nobility, go in procession, moanied on fine horses. The streets are lined by spectators ; and eavalry are stationed on eaehside, to preserve order, Ar« riving in the Kremlin, a vast assembly, bearing artifieial hoitquets and boughs, are seen moving here and there^ forming the novel and striking spectacle of a gay and Rio^ifig forest. The bouffhs consist of artifieial^ flow- ers, with fnrit. Beautiful representations of oraogee a«id lemons in wax are sold for a few copeeks'* each, and offer a proof of the surprising ingenuity of thia people in the arts of imitation. Upon thisoeeasion^ every person wha tpisit» the Kremftin) and would be thouglit a true Christiao^ pttrehases one or more of thebonghs, called Palnb-ln-asckes ; mkd in returains, the streets are crowded wiUi droskis, and alt ktndfr of vehieles, filled with ^votees, holding in their hands one or more palm-branches, according to the degree of their piety, or the nvmher of boghs in their houses. The description often given of the spkndour of the equt« pages in^ Moseow but ill i^rees with their appearanee daring Lent. A stranger, who arrives, with hia head fall •f notions of Asiatiek pomp, and eastern masnifteenee^ would be surprised to find narrow streets, execrably paved^ ••vered by mud or dust ; wretched looking bouses on each side ; carriages, drawn, it is true, by six horses, hat 8tt«h cattle ! blind, lame, old, out of condition, of all sises and all eolonrs, eonnected by votten ropes and old cords^ ftttt of knots and splices: on the leaders and on the box^ figores that seem to have escaped from the ealleys ; behind, a lousy, ragged laekey, or, perhaps, two, witheountenaneea exciting more pity than derision ; and the carriufi»e itself like the worst of the night-coaohes in. London. But this external wretchedness, as far as it coaeems the equipages of the nobles, admits of seme explanation. The tiifit is, that a dirty, tattered livery, a rotten harness, bad horses, and a shabby vehiele, constitute one part of the privation of the season. On Easter Monday the most gaudy bat Iknta&tiek * The CQfi^^k etpiaU ia value an. Sn^^lUb halfpenny. uoseow. " 89 • bdTooDery of sptendour fills every street in the eity. Tke ^mperoiir, it is tru^y in his hic^h eonsideration for the wel- fare and happiness of his subjeets, deemed it eipedtent to adapt the appearance to the reality of their wretehediieM : and, in restraining the excessive extravaganee of the people of Moseow, evinced more wisdom, than the world have ^▼en him credit for possessing. The second grand ceremony of this seaflon takes plaiee on Tiiursdav before Easter, at noon, when the arehhishm washes the feet of the apostles. This we also witneotied. The priests appeared in their most goi^eousapparel.Twelve monks, desired to represent the fwelve apostles, were. pla- ced in a semicircle hero re the archbishop. The ceremony is performed in the cathedral, which is crowded with spec- tators. The archbishop, performing all and mueh more than is related of our Savioor in the thirteenth chapter of 8t. John, takes olT his robes, girds up his loins with atowel^ and proceeds to wash the feet of them all, until he eomes to the representative of Peter, who rises ; and the sane inter- loeution take» place between him and the archbishop, which h said to havte taken pkee between our Baviour and that apostle. The third, and mo^t maeniiieent ceremony of all, is cele- brated two hovrs after mimiight, in the morning of Easter ^nday. It is called the ceremony of the resurreetion,<and eertaialy exceeded every thing of the kind celebrated at Rome, or any where else. I have not seen so splendid a 'th^ht in any Roman catholick country ; not even that of the benediction by the' pope during the holy week. At midnight, the great bell of the cathedral tolled. Its vibnitions seemed the rolling of distant thunder; and thoy were instantly accompanied by the noise of all the bells in Moscow. Every inhabittuit wasstiiTing, and the ratiling of carriages in the streets was greater than at noonday. The whole eity was in a blaze ; tor lights were-seen in all the windows, and innumerable torches in the streets. The tower of the cathedral was iUuminated from its fomdation to its cross. The same 'ceremony takes place in *all the churches ; 'and, what is truly surprising, eonsidering Ihetr number,' it is said they %re all emiali^r crowded. We hastened to the eatkedraJ, which ^vas filled with 'a pivdigtoiia^asBembiy «f 4ill ranks and sexes, beariw l^tdd wax tapers, to be afterwards heaped *a9 vows on the Affer- ent shrines. The i^ls, eeilings, land -every ^part i4f B6 Clarke's travels in Russia. • this bnilding, is covered by the picttires of saints and mar- tyrs. . In the moment of our arrival the doors were shut ; «nd on the outside appeared Plato, the arehbisfaop, preceded by banners and torches, and followed by all his train of priests, with crucifixes and censers, who were making three times, in procession, the tour of the cathedral ; chaunting* with loud voices, and glittering in sumptuous vestments, covered by gold, silver, and precious stones. The snow had not melted so rapidly in the Kremlin as in the streets of the city ; and this magnificent procession was therefore constrained to move upon planks over the deep mud which surrounded the cathedral. After completing the third cir^- euit, they all halted opposite the great doors, which were shut ; and tlic arclibishop, with a censer, scattered incense against the doors, and over the priests. Suddenly those doors were opened, and the eftect was beyond description great. The immense throng of spectators within, bearing^ innumerable tapers, formed two lines, through which the archbishop entered, advancing with his train to a throne near the centre. The profusion of lights in all parts of the eathedral, and, among others, of the enormous chande- lier which hung from the centre, the richness of the dresses, •iind the vastness of the assembly, filled us with astonishment. Having joined the suite of the archbishop, we accompanied, the procession and passed even to the throne, on which the police officers permitted us to stand, among the priests, near an embroidered stool of satin, placed for the arch- bishop. The loud chorus, which burst forth at the en- trance to the church, continued as the procession moved towards the throne, and after the archbishop had taken his seat ; when my attention was, for a moment, called off, by fleeing one of the Russians earnestly crossing himself witb his right hand, while his left was employed in picking mj companion's pocket of his handkerchiel« Soon after, the archbishop descended^ and went all round the cathedral ; first offering incense to the priest, and then to the people as he passed along. When he had re- turned to his seat, the priests, two by two, performed the 4iame ceremony ; beginning with the archbishop, who rose and made obeisance with a lighted taper in his hand. From the moment the church doors were opened, the spectators had continued bowing their heads and crossing themselves ; insomuch that some of the people seemed really exhausted, hj the constant motion of the head and hands.. I hid narvr {tninre tci examine tie ArtMie* nai iiganm «f (he priests, wbtch WBre eertainlf ike nefi ttiikiw I eret saw. Their Iob^, dark hair, witbeot f^m^tr^ fell iown in riag^lets, or strai^t and thieky fur ever their rieb robes and sbofllders. Thetr dark, tfitek lieardfl^ aite^ ettlirely eerered their breasts. On tke head«of the arebbMirop and bish9|is were hi^h caps, covered with ffems^ and adef«ed bj minia- ture painting, set in jewels, m thd emetfixiea, Ifaio vireia and the saiiits. Their robes ef -vanena «oio«ped tattn, were of the most eostlj embroiderj, and e««B ea tbete verc mliuatore pictures set with preeioiis rtoiioi^ Sveh, according;' to tlio eomeeratod kgesd ef aeeieot dajSywas the appearaoeeor the bigfa*|^riestt of oM, Aarea ana his sons, holy men standii^^ by the temple of the eoa- ^regation in fine numents, the worknaasbipof ^ BeawkeJ^. tlie son of Uri, the son of Hor, of the tribe of Jadab." It »» said there is a convent in Moeeow where the wemea are entirely employed in working dresses for the priests. After two hoars had been spent in varieaa earcmoiiieftr > the arehbishop advanced, heldini; forth a eroes^ whieb all. the neople erowded to embraoe, equeedingp eaeh other aearly to snffocation. As soen^ boweve^ m^ theb* eag^r* ae^sbad been somewhat satisfied, he retijred te the taeristy; nbere^ putting on a plain, purple robe, heafj^a advanecd^ exclaiming three times, in a very loud veiee ; Chri^ U • ri«ea/ The most remarkable part of the s«2e«uiUy now Allowed*- The archbishop, descending into the bedv of Ibe ehareh, ecmduded the whole eeremoay by erawiing rowtd tbe pavement on his hands and knees, kissing the eeaseeirated pietares, whether on the pillars, the walls, ike i^tars, er tbe tombs ; the priests aiul all the people imitating his ex* amfle. ^pnlcnres were opened, and the mnmmiM badks of meorrnptible saints ei^hibited, all ef wkktb anderw^nt tbe same general kissing. Thus was Easter proclaimed ; and riot and dtbaiaehery. instantly broke loose. The inn in whieh wnt Mged beeaoM a pandemonium. Drinking, daneing, and ttoging, eontimied dnrattgh the night and day. Bitt, in the midst of all these excesses, quarrels hardly ever t6ok plaee« Theivtld, rnde net of a Rnssian populace is fall of hmHanity. Pew dm^ Mtes are hei^rd i n» bbws are gi^en $ «9 Hves evdnigered, feat by df iidting. No meetings taleo piaee of any kiad^ viihooltep^^^tbe expfesineag of peaeeawl j&ff ilkrmt^ m togcnmi GmA m.nmnl to wlOdi Oie wMwer 9\mfM tt, ilM tame^ Fo isUneff VQ$cre8$! He w risen indeed I Om EMterMnadttY be^^ the presentation of the pasehal eggoi kversto their Bustr«8iiet» relatives to eadi other^ servants to thek masters^ all hrii^; ornamented e^s* Ererj oKeriog, at this season^ is called a pasehal e^. The mean- est pauper in the atreet^ pvesculinc an e^ and repeatii^ tho words Ckristas V0seres&, may demand a salute, even of the empress. All hwriness is laid aside ; the upper ranks are en^fiaged in visiting^ balls, dinners, sappers, and mas- Snerades $ while hows fill the air with their songs, or roll . rank ahont tho streets* Servants appear in new and tawdrj Ui^nrios $ and carriages in the most snmptoous parade. In the midst of th» nproar, I made mjself as mneh like itSttSMB as possible, and went in a caftan to one of (W pnhliek hallo of tl^ eitizens, given in our inn* It was held m a subs of several apartments ; and a mimeroos band of mnsiek, composed of violins, wind instminents, and kettlo'* dnfms, had been provided. The master of the inn had^ also, taken oare to invite a company of gipsies, to entertain the company by their dancing/ A sinsle ronbie was^oiaaiH ded, as the price of admission. All fears of appeanM like a foreigner Tamsbed, upon entering the principal ha^ room ; for I lennd an assembly as various in their a{^at<^ anee, as eharaeters- in a masquerade. On the benches were squatted Tnrks, with their nsual gravity and indifierenee^ kwkkig on with.a solemn, vaeant stare, unmoved, by sboats^ of joy or tnmnltuons songs, by the noise of the dauicing^ or, the thundering <^ a pair of kettle drums close to their earn. In another part were a party of Bocbarians, with flal noses, high cheek bones, and little eyes ^ their heads shaved^ and a small,eonical, embroidered cap on the crown of their scuUs; in rod morocco boots, long trowsers, of blue cloth^ with a girdle and a poignard* Besides these were Chinese merchants, Cossacks, and even Calmucks, all of whom ap- peared as spectators. In the middle of the room the Bns-r dan boors and tradesmen were dancing with prostituiest while their own wives and daughters were walking abottt^ A party of gipsies were performing the national danee^ oalied Barintt» It resenribied our English hornpipe; bm never was displaved more ferocious licentiousness hy\oiee and gesture. The male dancer expressed his savage joy in sqneaks, contortions, and sudden, convulsive spasms, that seemed to agttate his whole frame; standing sometimea «ilR; III6II koMitt^, ^yWnfttj^ toideity, «f (rasUing hi «I1 lis limbs, to tbe uiisiek, whl«k wm rerjr aiiimatiii|^. Tkli imte^ thoQgh ret J commtMi hi Rmia, tiiejr e^ulbM t<i kave derived from the j^psies'; lad it may, ChereftHre, «€en prill* a^le, tbati^nrliorapipe wai introdveed %j tike saitiepeopW. Other gipsies' were telting fbrtimes, aeeoMia^'ta their mri- Tersal praetlee, m* heg^ng for presents of oranges and iM. This extraordinarj people, found In all parts of Kafopciy were ori^^inally ane of the easts of India, driven out of tbeik' svm territory, and dlsttn^ished, among Indmn trihes, by a pame, whteh signifies thieves.* Thtf have a similar appeff- iathtii among the f%is, und vith the same sigiMeation. They preserve, evvtywhefe, the saMie Ifeatores, mafttfero, atid eilstom«r, and, >vhat is more retnarkable, almost always the same nmide of dress; 'Hie extn^^iaary resemhfaaee ^ (he Ibinaie t^psies, to the tromen uf India, was remai«e^ hf our offioers and men ili Bgyp<^ when general Batriarri^ ved with his army Ub j«ritt li>rd iliMhinsbn. The seaipo^ hadiMmy ttf th^Vr women with them,nv<he were eiDstetly Mm ear gipsies, la their ^h^s, they favnh alt their finery upett tbeh* head. Their eostame, in Rassia, h Very Mfhrent fltrttt'fhat of die ta(ivei(. They wear enormoas eaps eover* ei iHth riMNrads, uiiddeeoratefi infiraaft with a prodigieaa qmm^ Hftf %iiver eoins, whiek fnffm a matted mall work everthdrfbreheads. Tl»y aho wear saeh eoins as neek* hiees, aad l^te ^e ^mnUeftt to be met with in the empire^ firr peadanfes to their ea¥s; The Russians hold them ia great eonteiBpt, never speaking of them withont abase ^ Utid feel them^elyefii eohtaminated br ^ir toneh, nnless it be to hate tlieir Ibrtane ts^ld. They beliete a gipsy net only hMirtie wish, tint the'p^wer, to dieAt every one they see 5 wid, tiierefore, gieneraliy avoid them. Formerly they were More scattered over Rassia, and paid Imi tribute ; but now Ihny are e^illected, aiid all belong to one nobleman, to whoifi ^eypay u eertain tribate, and rank among the number ef his daves. ITiey aeeompany their dancfes by singing, an€ toad elapplng of the hands ; breaking forth, at intervali, with shriekSi, anSd short expressive cries, adapted te t^ ladden movements, gestures, ainl t^rns of th^ dance. Tb6 tiiale dancers iiold fa ohe hand a trandkeHBhief, which thejr * S«e tlio CtVMaoofsry^jf-Fvofesflor Fortbs% of A^ in FiD]«ad» utK>ii tne Chronicle of that Uaiver^ity. His works are not sufficiently known. He has^glTeQ the history a«d origin of the Fiahmd tribes ; nd a very endSs^, 49 CLARKB's TRAYKJLt IN RV&SU« ^ vftLYf abontrimd nanage witf) mee^as weU.as.aii. ^ Tki (dance, fuH of the grossest Kbidinous expression, And mosl indeeent p^store, is, in otker respects, graceful • Naihuig can be more so, than the manner in which they sometimes wave and extend their aims. It resem^leA the attitudea of Baeelianalians represented on Greek vases. But the women do not often exhibit those attitudes. The^ generally main- lain a stiff, upright position, keeping their feet elf^se, aiid heating a tattoo with their high heels. When the Russians dance the barina^ it is aeeompanied with the balalaika* Formerly they were great admirers of that simple and pleasing instrument. But now, imitating the manners of France and England, it has been laid asid^^ Many of them are still able to play it | iHit, as they deem aueh an accomplishment a sort of degradation in the ayes of foreigners, they are seldom prevailed upon to use it. Lika the ladies of Wales, who, scarce able to speak Englial^ fkffect ignorance of their native tQOgne. . Collected in other parts of rooms, opened for this Assem- bly, were vocal performer?, in parties of ten or twelve eadi^ singing voluntaries. They preserved the most perfect bar* anony, each taking a separate part, though without any seeming eonaelousness of the skill thus exerted. The fe* male daueersand assistants,, in this ball, were many of them prostitutes ; but the wives and dauehters of the peasanU, a.ud lower tradesmen, mingled with them, dressed out in their full national costume, and appareojtly.not at all dis* pleased with such society. ^ The hall oC the nobles admits a very different description^ It topk place every Tuesdays and, it may be truly sai^^ Europe has not beheld its equal. I was never more struck by the appearance of an assembly, convened for tlie. purpose of dancing. The laws of the society exclude every persoi^ who is by birth a plebeian ; and this exclusion has been extended to foreigners ; therefore, we felt grateful in being Allowed admission. Prince Yiazemskoi, who married an JSnglish lady, kindly procured tickets for us ; although U was considered Jungeroiis, at that time, to have the charac* ter of hospitality towards Englishmen.* If his highness i»e now living, he is requestecT to pardon this testimony of •' * I wish to toy part2euliir strew upon tHSs eircamstMiee, as abuMt §Sk «i4vetter9 havo eelebrated Rustian hospiUiltty, and partieiilariy that of tb« «ihabitapU of Moscow. « L'hosfutalit^ des RfMses," saj the autlw^ of the Yoja|;e de Deux Fk«n$ais» <* pai-oit id dftas tautMM joor/' «' fcifl*l^«el^&8 erades^emion. I feel teMible, th^Jt a eeiige* viaMif vf seotifDewt will renter any apolosy saperfluom^ Air the saerifiee I hare elsewhere made m the eaiue of troth. Tiie coupfPrnUf apbn entering the grand saloen, is uieon*> eelvable. Daring ten years that I have been aeenstomed t^ gpeetadies of a stmilar natore, in different parts «f the eon- tttfent, I have never seen any thing with whieh it might eompare. Yhe eompany eonslsted of near two thousand persons ; trebles only being admitted. The dresses were the most snttiptnous that ean be imnslned ; and, what is more remafkable, they were ooneeived in the purest taste» and were In a ht^ degr^ beooming. The favonrite orna- ments of the ladies were eameos, whieh they wore npott fhei'r arms, in g^rftle^ foond their waists, or ikpon their bo- soms; a mode of adorning the fair, whieh has sineeibiind Its wa^ to l»br oWn eountry, and whieh was orieinaUy de- rived from Paris. But the women of Franee and finglanA may g^o to Mosreow, in order to see their own flk^ions sot irff*t6 advantage. Their drapery was dtspdsed ehietly af- ter the Oreeian eostni«|c, and they wo^re tbel r hatr bounii np round the head. The modes of dress, in London and Piairls, ar« generally Mend^ toother, by the hidies df Mos- cow, who ^teet fi-om either what may beeome them best $ andj in jnstiee to tbeir eharms, it mast be eoiklfegsed, n0 eoutitry in the world can boast saperionf beauty. When» in ft^iition to their personfal attractions, it ift eonsidered^ that the most exeessive extraraganee ift nsed, to proenrd %Thate ver may cdifitrlbate to their adornment ;* that a whole fbrtune is, sdmetimeii, lavished on a single dress; that they are assembled in one of the finest rooms in the. worjil^ lighted and decorated with matchless elegance and splen- dour; it may be sapposed the effeet has never been sar- passed. In such an assembly, we have every reason to suppose, % eeuple of English travellers might pai^s without notice* We had, moreover, a particular reason ibr hoping this would he the ease ; as, in obedience to a decree of the emperour Paul, we had collected our short hair into a cue, which ap- • It i« related, very generally, in the higher eirelei trf the eky, I9iat a prineess of Moscow, who had purehased a yng, to imitate tiie ooloor of ke^ own Uair, confined her hairdresser in a eloset, fed him alwaya herself, aoA allowed him only to come out daring her tottette|ia or^ter that bar f ' ' tnases might not h« detected. ^ CtAEKE^S TRAVKLS IN RVSUA. peared moftt ridiealansly eni^ailed, stieking ont^ like any Ibing bat that whieh it was intended to represent; Mid most remarkablj enatnisted with the long tails of the Russians. Unfortunately, the case was othenn ise $ and a curiosity to see the two £o^lishinen beeoming ii^nerai, to onr great dismay we found our«eI?es surrounded by a crowd of persons, some of whom thought proper to ask, ^^ Who cut our hair?^'* Such questions, it may be eonceiyed, did not add to the tfrening'ft nmusement. But our ftstontshment was eomplet* ad the next day, in reneeiviog the thanks and blessing of » poor JraMed barber, who hA powdered us at the inn, and vh«se rortaae, Ke assured us, we had made; all the yomi^ Bobies haYiog sent for him, to eut and dress their hair ii^ |)i^ same ridif alous manner. > I shoald not have mentioned saeh a trifling ineidenit, if it htd not ultimately taken a very serious turn ; for the police officers interfering, the young men, who had thus docked* llMflwelTea, were apprehended in the publiek walks, severel y veprimandtd, and compelled to wear false hair ; and we were obliged to use the utmost circumspection, lest we »hould also be apprehended, and, perhaps, treated with more rwoar. . The daiieea were oalled Quadiillea, Polonese, and Enjt* lish» The Walts, onee their favourite^ had been prohibit^ ad. Bat whatever name they gave them, they were all dull ; coDisistim^f merely in a sort of prdmenade. Neither the m^ nor the women evinced the sliglitest dei;ree of ani- auitioa while daneinff, but seemed to consider it an apolo- gy for not sitting stiU. Every person wore full dress ) the men appearing either in uniform, or coats of very rich em^ broidery. CHAPTER V. MOSCOW. Surprisdng Talents of Imitation 4tmong the Suitian^'^Se^ markable fraud practised 5y a JSTaUve Jirtist*^BookseUer$^ . State of Idt^nUure — Jdhrarie^ of the ^chks-^Epimag^ -^Costume of the Pourgeoisie^-^musements of the rwfte .. — Chapel of the Tverschaia^-»Miracle$ wrought thert'-^ JSTature of the Imposture — Artifice of a J^&rehant»^$8a&'- Ifinalion (^ an Mrchbishop^-^-Jdotive for the Worship of Pictures-^ReMtiMance between J^eapolitans and Ru$8um$ -^Wives of the JSTobles — Conduct of their Httsbands^ Children of Qrlojf'^Frin^ess MenchicqjP^Setribuiite spirit exercised by tke Emperour at the^umrtd of Ai# Mother* IN wbatever eoontiy we seek original genitts, we most H^ ta Russia fof a talent of indtatioiK , It is the aeme nf Russian intellect $ the prineiple of all their oporatioos* They htL\f nothing' of their own f but it is not their fault if they h»ve not everjr thin^ whieh others invent Their snr* prising powers of imitatlpn exeeed all that has been hi- therto known* The meanest Russia^ stave has been found adequate to the aeoomplishment of the most intrieate and most deKeate works of mechanism ; to copy, with his single hand, what has demanded the joint labours of the best workmen in France or England. Though untutored, they are the best actors in the world. A Russian gentleman, who had never seen a theatre, assisted during the repre* sentationof a play, in one of the remote, eastern provinces | and was accidentally seen by persons capable of estimating the merit of his performance, which they pronounced supe- riour to that of any of our European actors. I am dispo^* ed to credit this account, because, in examples of their imi- tative i^nitis, I have wknessed somethins similar. If thej w«re instructed in the art of naintine, tney wouldbecome the finest portrait painters in the world. In proof of this I saw one example : it was a miniature portrait of the e|B- perour, exeented by a poor slave^ who had only once seen 44 Clarke's travels is avssia. hiaXf daring the vbit he made to Moseow. In all that ton^ eerned reaemblanee and minuteness of mrcsentation, it was the most astonishing work whieh, perhaps, ever ap- peared. The effect procmced was. Kke that of beholding the original throngh a diminishing lens. The Birmingham trinket manufactory, in which imitations of jewelrj and preeions metals are wrought with so much cheapness, is surpassed in Moneow; because the workmanship is equally good, and the things themselves are cheaper. But the great source of wonder is in the manner of their execution. At Birmingham they are the workmanship of many persons ; in MoiBCow of one only ; vet the dififerenee between dividea and undivided labour in this branch of trade occasions none in the price of the articles. I saw, in Moscow, imitation* of the Maltese and Venetian gold chains, tvhich would de- ceive any person, unless he were himself a goldsmiths This is not the case with their cutlery, in which a multiplication ^ labour is so requisite. They fail, therefore, in hard ^are$ not because th^y are ineapable of imitating the works they import, but because they cannot afford to sell them for the same price. Where a patent, as in the instance of Bra- mah's locks, has kept up the price of an article in Bngland beyond the level it would otherwise find, the Russiansiiave imitated such works with the greatest perfection, and sold the copy at a lower rate than the original, though, equally valuable. This extraordinary talent for imitation has been shown 4!so in the fine arts. A picture by Dietrici, in th^ Style of Polemberg, was borrowed bv one of the Russian nobility from his friend. The nobleman who owned the Iiicture had impressed his seat upon the back of it, and had nscribed verses and mottos of his own composition. With so many marks he thought his picture safe any where. But It copy so perfect was finished, both as to the painting and aft the circumstances of colour in the canvass, the seal, and the inscriptians, that when put into the frame of the origi- nal, and returned to its owner, the fraud was not discovered* This circumstance was afterwards made known by the con- fession of the. artist employed 5 and there are now residing in Petersburgh and Moscow, foreign artists* of the highest respectability and talents, who attest its truth. One of them, Signior Caniporesi, assured me, that walking in the • Guarenghi of PetersburgU, lufid Cwaporesi of Moscow^ Italian wrchitect* Employed by the erowft. .-. nAnrbfi of Moscow, ke e^ftere4 * suMimble lait bekng-uif ta a eob6ler; where, iM; the further etid^ in a {ilace eontrived to JioM p«tis aud kettles,^ and to dregs victuals, he observed ata^d peasant at work. It w^ a painter in enamel, eopyins verjr beautiful pictures whieft were placed before JUm. The saiHe purson^ he added, might have been found, next day. drunk in a eelW, or howling beneath the eudgel of his task-master. , Uiidi^r the present form of govern-- ment in Bussia, it is not very probable the fine arts will ever flourish. A Russian itt eitlier a slave, or has received ius freedom. In the former instancy, he works only when instigated by the rod of his master, and is cudeeiled as often as his-mai^ter thinks proper; While empToved in works of sculpture „or paintings ue is frequently called off, t^ mend a phair or a table, to drive nails into a wainscoty or ismb the %^'alls of the house. When evening comes, as eerlainly eomes a cudgel across his shoulders. And this is not the way to make artists. In the latter instance, if lis has received his f^edom, the action of the cudgel having eeased, all stimulus to labour ends. He has then no other isstigation to work, except the desire of being able to buj brandy, and tq get drunk $ which he does whenever he can procure the means ; and there is soon a period put to any exertions of Lis talents. Neither is tlus a way to mak# artists. The booksellers' sliops in Moscow are better furnished than in Petersborgh ; but they are very rarely placed upon a ground flopt' The convenience of walking into a shop from the street, without climbing a flight of slairs, is almost peoiiliar to England $ though there are some exceptions, as is^ the palais royal at Paris, and in a few houses, at Vi-^ enna. A catalogne of Russian authors in some of the shops, EUs an octavo volnma of two hundred nagf»s« French, Italian, German) and English books, would be as numerous here as in any other city, were it not for the ravages of the publick eepHnrs, who prohibit the sale of books from their own ignorant misconception of their contents. Bometitne$ a sii^e volume, nay a single page, of an author, is prohib- ited, and tbe.re^t^of the work, thus mangled, permitted to be sold. Th?re is hardly a single modern work which has ^ot been sub|ect to their correction. The number of pro^ hibited books is such, that the trade is ruined. Contraband pnblieations are often smn^led | but the danger is so greats that all the respectable booksellers teave the trade to pes« #1 •LARICE's Ttik^tiiM IN Ei;9$XA. •OM, eMMflr ni^ri AHlw^sr ^Kto, ft«iii ^cxevtiaing^a^ ♦eeupfttioM, are leM ItftMetd siMpitfioa. Yet there are eireinttslavee* muii^ fr«iii tfie stttfe ^ 'pttbliek afairfikin the two «kie»^ whieh gtveft a BOferiofity ta the beokdellerft af Matfeow. la and near the ally reslda a vaHftttmberof RastiantiahiHty. A IVn^igaer Hft^ i«v:a many yearg there^ witlioateTeD hearing the aames ec «»fiia -^f them ; wherea» at Petersbui^h a few eiily are ftrand, wha *all be)an|» ta the eonrt, and are therefere all known. The fiahtofl of Mo«eev have many of tiiem formerly figured 4a the preseaee of their sovereign, and have beenoraered ta reside in that eity ; or they have passed their vouth i« for- eign travel, and withdrawn to their seats in it» cfnvirons* Many of these have mc^nifieent (ibraries'; and, as tha< cpmnsement of oolieeting, rather than the ^lieasare af read* tag books, has been the reason of their fonning those samp* tuottsr eoUectioas, the booksellers raeeivfe ^orders to a vittj large amount.* When a Russia«n noMetnan reads, whim h very rare, it iseoainionly a novel ; either some Ifeeatlotia trash in French, or ^me Ihiglish romanee translated inta Ihat iangaage. Of the latter, the Italian taMrs. ftteidkM*^ lias been better done than ativ other ; heoaase, rej^eseaHng eustoms whieh ai% not absiolnlefy locals it admfls of «a^r trausitian into ^sj othar Enrapeaa- tongae. Bat wtiaa th(s^ attempt to translate Tom Jones, The V iear of Wakefteili^ ar any of those inimitable, original pietnres af Bn^ish nMii* aem, the effect is ridicuioos h^ond deserifition. SqaM Western beeomes a Freneh philesofdier, and Ooldsnalh^ Primrose a Fkur de Ids* Books ai real, literary repntation are not ta be otltaiiled« either ia P^tersborglYOr Moseow. Pradaetions of <>th^r days^ whieh, from theft" importanee in seienee, bnsfe beeoiae ivre^ are never ta he found. Costly axid frivoioas vaktiiies> sumptaottsly baand, and mast gorge«nUyd«aarat«dy«aao(i« tnte the preeioas part of a library, in Rassian esttaiatiaa; Gaudy Freneh editions of Faatenaile, nf Manaoatal, af Italian sonneteers^ with Englbh «MfoS of hatteriiaa, sh^Hs, and €ow^e^ $«dilhms by BaskervHk, Bensley, and Balaier, with hot-prtsoe4 and wlre^wove paper | in shorty the toys rather than the iastrnmeats of saianea, atlimcft the naliee ^ all the Rasskii amateim^ A magniitMmt iihmry i» Rfllbaia> ♦ These orders are somctiifnes given in the sl^'le related of oije of the late empress's fktourites, who tent for a hooksetter, and said : •' Pit m% Up A. kcm^ms IMfmry .- IHtte iMi'i i^tMe, nwlffrmt oiDeM- Mm.'*' ' ift whiili M—r ■wn miii» hme iwea tkiMiidM^ ivll It fmnrf to eentaiB very Kttle of vatfal literttUiM. im r^n^ MMMg^ tkeir ttstdiy e«lle«titM, aaettiiii^ like a teantry of leatlier vkkk Wan tlwiMiaMet may w seek foralatiiek aatlwrt^ kktorians)' lainq^en, aad poets. A eepy of the BaeyeUfpoe* 4i«, i^Med OMNW for est^ntatiea tliaii for vse, maT perhaps^ HI a wditary iaslaiiee or two^ ^reet, tka eye, ae tae ealy ee«' timabU work^ tkraiighoiit (keir gilded skelves. After Loadeaand Goastantinople, Mottow is, denhtless, tk iMsl reiaarkable eity in Earepe* A straager, passiag* mpidJy threafph, auglit pronaunee it the dallest, dirtiest, tsdaiott aainterestiBg eity ia the warld ; while another, hftviag fended there, woald affirm, that it had rather the disrieter of a n^reat eomiaereial and wealthy metropolis <tf a vast aad powerfal empire. If the j^adeor aad riehes of the iahahttanU, are te be estimated by the number of •qsipages, and the namber of horses attaehwd to eaeh, Mos- cow wwild exeel, in spleodoar, all the eities of the j^lohe. Tbete is hardly aa iodiTldaal, above the raak of plebeian, who would be seen wEitkoat foar horMs to his earria^ ; and- ths geaenditY have six. Bat, the maaaer is wh^h thir pomp is dispiayad, is a perfect harlesqne apoa stateliaess. A eoople of ragged baya are ]^aeed as postilioas, b^vre a- Qosdiiaaiiy im saoh shaep^s hides as are wora hy the pea* Slats in the woods ; aad^ behind the earriage^are statioaed^ sesiqdeof laskeys, mora tawdrv, bat not IcM ladieraus tbsa their •dmevs. To give all this greater effeet, the' traees of the harness are so long, that it rehires eonsMei*'* sble maoagemeat to preserve the hotses ftwm beiiq; enf an- cM, whenever they Hmi 4ke esener of a street, or make a mit Koiwithstawfiar ^is, ao stran^, however he may deride its absordiiy, w3i ventare to visit the nobles, if ha Irishes Sn* their notiee,.mthout fbur hovses to bis eharfst, a iigBsdsoaehaMUiand postilioa^Hidaparadeofeqeii^age, that mast eiaile.hia laughter, ia proportioa as it ensures their, soaateaaaee and approbation* The wives of the tiadcamea, darine the season of their bstivsls, sjro seen driviag abaat in droskis, with riefaet ^Vse their pmrsoas suftsiea t to paMhase a peerage. Capa «ade of Dialled work of pearb, with Tarkish and Fersiaw »hawb>aad diamoAd earriags) preserviag,ait thesMie ttrae, dways the national eostume, however eostly their spparel. This eostume is resuukabl]^ graeefal, when the shawl is ^•ro^ and aa m«eli otherwise when it is mot. The shami 4t CLAHRe's TRA^BfA'XK RtJS&lA. eoYer^ Ifie itiid, *h%I fnH* tti tbm#ol4»«v«r tli« th^ttUtrt, v<ettiekki^«ifiMi8t to feke feet The eelebrate<) PaMlts presented me Mrith fttlrawitt{^,represeiitiii^ tlie wife-of a Rusvian trades- tfrnn, wltk tlie did doemia^ or nuffse^ whieh is fbotid in almost eveiy family. It was executed by Ins ariist, GeisJen With that ^mn\ hvinmur whieh always isharaeterisEes hioi^ finding the women vnwilHng to ha^e their fi^ires deiio-. eated, he cansed Mrs. Pallas to assume the-^ress&f the yoan» wife, and ptit on hts own person the habit of a daen* Ha; thus affordinei: a seentek representation, tti whteh the persons of the drama, though -stroligly earteatnred^ are, the professor and his wife. The amusements of the people, are those of ehildren$ that is to say, of EngrliJih children ; for, in Paris and -Na- ples, I have* witnessed similar amusements, in wbieh ,^are senators and statesmen mounted wooden horses, r^und* abottts, and ups-and^mvns^ with the inhabitants of these cities. It will be said, the En^Ksh are a j^rave people. Be it so. But, I befteve, I eevld asst^ a better reason for tha \vant of sueh infantine sports at their wakes and fairs. Certainly there id no part of ottr island, in whieh men ef forty and fifty years of age, would be seen rUm^ a« a wooden horse, or swingeing aboat m a vaulting ehair* Three Rnssians at a time will squees^ themselves interne, andyO^s they are whirled round, seream,fbr jdy, liiie*iiifants, toceed in the nurse's arms. I remember seeing Ihe king ot the Two Sieilies, joining, with his principal eonrtiers, in a shnilar amusement. Entering by the gate of the Resnrrecti^n, which forma the eastern extremity of the Tveri^ehaia, one nf the prinei* pal streets in Moscow, there is a small ehapely orehainbery open to the street ; before whieh, at all honrs of the day,« mob is seen as3emblcd,'crossiflg mid proetraHing^hemselvai* I had the curiosity to penetrate this host «f devotees, and to enter the tanctnarv. There I fonnd an old man^ ^rilh a leog beard, busy in selling candles to the nnmeroiit visitanti^ who, immraiatety after btiying'them, placed them belare a picture of the virgin. The little chapel wm Mled wilh a variety of pictures of gain ts and martyrs; bat thwe were two of the virgin with the infant, larger than the rest, and S laced facing the streets ; oar of whieh is said t» have een brought hither by an angel, which eanses Ihe extra- ordinary devotion paid < la that pictare in partteatar; at*- jdioB$h eie^re «re wMjr mieh pietatns io^'jotlier farts ^ Mbsediv', wHh the %iM^ rej^iitatioft of a tnlrftculoat tran6<> portation. The piirtieQlarpiettire, to wirieh referenee is now made, wtis framed in silver, set roond with eems, true or fklse, of variou» timgiiitiides. It has great edebrttr, from the niimberkss miracles it has wroaght, in healtntc titesiek, restoring sight to the Mind, and showtiring down favours of all kinds Opon its worshippers. Now, supposing only four persons present themselves before this image, as it is called, in the eompass of a single minute (and sometimes liftj in the same instant may be observed opposite Ihe shrine) no less a number than two thousand eight hundred and eighty persons will be found to visit it in the short space of twelve houns« It would I^ indeed, a miracle, if, out of this number, one or two did not oeeasionally experience relief, either from sickness of body,^ or sorrow, or some pleasing, aeeidental ehange in eireumstances. And, wheii* ever this happens, if -bnly once in thirty days, which would be one oat of eighty six thousand four hundred persons, not reekonlns nightly visitants, the noise of it is eiretitated far and wide, the story itself exaggerated, and the throng of votaries increased. Upon such ground, an ide<^ might be the oeeaston of as vast a superstrncture of ignorance and eredulity as any whieh even Russia has wit- nessed. The picture of a saint found accidentally in tliQ street, liuman ho^s 4ng up in a forest, a dream, any eas- nal and rude representation nf a cross,, in straws which have Detllen together at the meeting of roads, or a lu$tis na» fur«^, the colours of a pied horse, veins in apiece of flint or marble, inr short, whatever represents, or is supposed to represent^ any object in their prodigious catalogue of super- stition, might oeeasion a resort of devotees, give rise to a rimreh, or a markefplaee fbr waxehandlers, painters, and silversmiths, as famous as theahrine of Diana of Ephesus. What is ao prnbable, has frequently happened. A mer- ehaat of Moseow, mote renowned ^or speirulation than piety, some years ago caused a eofiin to be dug up, with the supposed body of a saint, in the interior of the empire, eastward of the city. The throng to it from all parts be- came tmrmease; the blind ware h^ed^ the lame left their crutches suspended as trophies of minM»ttlnus inures ; and, ma short tune, all the nther ehurehes were deserted, in conseqvenoe of the reputation oi the newly discovered saint* It was, moreover, said, tfait his aaintshtp was very jpasMon- tte^ thitt te was wpy^at M«6 4i|iy|irbed j^ and insisted F ^^ dew aLARKB^S TAAVSJUft 11^ RUSSIA. hAvios a ehorfih built orer him, to eojuu^e his fatiue e. A church was, therefore, erected ; when the news of ^. whole affair reaching the ears of the late empress Cath- erine j she ordered the building to be shut. The emperour Paul, from a determination to undo every thing she did, and tti <lo as much as possible what she would not have done, caused it to be as;ain opened ^ although it was. well known in Russia, that the merchaot, after the church was shut by the empress's order, frequently avowed, and laughed at the fraud he had committed. Much after the same man- ner, during the plague which raged in Moscow about thirty years ago, a picture was placed in one of the streets of the city, to which the people eagerly thronged upon the earliest inteliigence of it. The archbishop Ambrose, fiuding that the danger of spreading the infection increased as the peo- ple crowded to this picture, ordered it to he removed, and shut up in a church, the doors of which were forced open by the populace | and the venerable prelate, being dragged from the convent of Donskoi, was inhumauly put to death. The late empress, in her ^correspondence with Voltaire, gave an account of this event ; recommending it as a sup- plement to the article fanaticism^ in the French Encycio- psedia.* All that has been said or written of Roman catholic big- otry, affords but a feeble idea of the superstition of the Greek church. It is certainly the greatest libel upon hu- man reason ; the severest scandal upon universal piety, that has vet disgraced the annals of mankind. The wild, untutored savage of South America, who prostrates him- self before the sun, and pays his adoration to that which he believes to be the source of life and light, exercises more rational devotion than the Russian, who is all day crossing )iimself before his bogh, and sticking farthing candles be- fore a picture of St. Alexander Nevski. But in the adora- tion paid by this people to their saints and virgins, we may discern strong traces of their national character. The ^ homage they offer to a court parasite or to a picture, are hotli founded on the same principle ; and in all their specu- lations, political or religious, they are prompted by the same motive. A deity, or a despot, by the nature of the one, and the policy of the other, is too far removed from their view to admit of any immediate application. All their petitions, instead of being addressed at once to a spir- • » Lettre* de Pfenpdr/dc mmke/* tec. Lett. U. jtnal or a temporal throne, are directed to one or the other by channels which fall beneath the eosrnlzanee of sense. Trhus we ^n^ favouritism the keystone of Rossian gorem- Dient, and adoration of saints the pillar of their faith. The sovereign is disregarded in the obeisance offered to his fa- vourites; and the Creator forgotten in the worship of his creatures. As ^ve lived in some degreebf intimacy with many of the Rifssian nobiKty, their manners and opinions could not escape our notice. Of all Europeans they bear the great- est resembfance to the nobles of the " Two Sicilies.''^ The Neapolitans, and the grandees of Palermo, are exactly like those of Moscow; and even the peasants of the two coun- tries have a certain degree of resemblance. The similitude may arise from a similarity of government ; vitions and des- potiek ; ig|n<ltant and siiperstitious. The same character prevails in theif* national dances, and in their mode of dress. T*he harirut diff'ers little from the faranto^^* and the female peasants df the Campana Felice dress very much like the women near Moscow ; with the same shoes ; the same kind of headdress ; the same embroidered suits ; the same load of finery. Cannot this be explained.^ The costume of magna Greecia came from the archipelago ; and the art of^ ;dress was introduced to Russia from C^onstantinople. I have before mentioned, that in their sports the Russians and Neopolitans are the same. In the class of the nobles, the "Women are far superionr to the men : they are mild, af- fectionate, often' well informed, foeautifal, land highly ac- complished ; while the meif are destitute of every aua- iifi cation which might render them, in the eyes of tlieir female companions, objects of admiration. It is not, there- fore, to be wondered at, that ladies of rank in Moscow have the character of not being strict in their fidelity to their husbands ; especially when the profligate example so lately offered them ih their empress Catherine, be taken in- to consideration. It is difficult to conceive how the wives of the generality of nobles in Moscow can entertain any ire- speet for their husbands. Married, without passion, by the policy and self-love of their parents, frequently to men they never saw until the time of wedlock ; subjected to tyrants, who neither affdrd examples to their children, nor any source of social enjoyment to themselves ; who are supera- nnated before the age of thirty, diseased, dirty, and over- whelmed by debt J the w«meD m Moscow regard the matri-^ ^a Clarke's TaAv#M in Russia. monfaMife as snperionr, indeed, to tlmt^f iii4|iri««u|ieut m a eonrent ^ bat as a state of slaveFyy from which they |oq|: to a jojfat deliverance in the death of Iheir husbands. Every one acquainted with the real history of the en]|>ret|jS Catherine, and the manner in which she .hurst the connu- bial bonds, will ind in it a model of the state of female i^i- ciety thronghout the empire. The wives of the nobles» it is true, do not assassinate their husbands; biit the ties of 't^edloek are altogether disregarded. In giving this repre- sentation, I would be understood with reference . to the ge- neral state of the community. I shall not oflend my reaoery nor wound the feelings of individuals, by retiuliqg private anecdotes for publick purpofies ; neither i^ it neessary to relate the few exceptions or which the statement may admit. Whatever credit may be given to it in this country} I ant Tery sure it will not be contradicted in Russia. A Russian nobleman will sell any thing he possesses, from his wife to hi« lap dog^ from the decaratian» of his palace, to the ornaments of his person ; any thing to obtain money ; any thing to squander it away. Yisitine a trading mineralogist, I wafr«ttrprised to see glass cases fill- ed with court dresses : and still more in being told they M ere dresses of the nobility, sent to be exposed for sale, aa often as they wanted money. Their plan is to order what- ever they can procure cre£t for ; to pay for nothing; and to sell whatever they have ordered as soon as they receive it. We should call such conduct in England, swindling* In Moseow it bear« another iiame : it is called £us$i0n ma^ificence. The children of those who murdeped Peter the third re- sided in Moscow when we were there. Bne of them niar- ried the daughter of the governour. The princess Meazt^ kof, grand-daughter of the favourite of Peter the gre^^ was also there: we were often in her company; and too much amused by her cheerful disposition, to. repent the style of conversation she indulges every where. However, that which is a proverb in Russia may bear an allusion in Eng- land, When the late empress died, her son and successour caused the body of his father to be taken up, and laid jn state by the coifin of his mother in the palace lit Peters- hurgh. It is said there was only one person, an archbishop, who knew where they had laid him ; as he was interr9.d M ithout moaument and inscription, in the church of the monastery of St. Alejtauder Kevski. Orlof, his murderer, w«9 then ttt M we»w. ' An onkr from the empcrrar troasht Ititn to Petersbar^; and when the bodies were removed to theehcireh'of 8t. Peter and BU Paul in the citadel,* he was tompelted to walk in the proeension iron the palace Co the eltadel, fbllowins^ the body of the person he had murdered so fon^ beibre. it was thni the people of Petersburgh be- held an interesting spectacle of retribution. One of them, an e)re-witness of tlie whole scene, related it to me. The bodies were driiwn upon low chariots by horses. Imme- diate! j iftfter the eoifin of Peter the third, and dose to it, walked, with'slow lind filtering steps, his assassin, Orlof^ havini^ lits eyes fixed on the ground, his hands folded, and his ftiee' pate as death. Next to Orlof walked tlie empe- roiir, certainly manifesting, by this sublime, though myste- rious saerifiee to the manes of his father, an action worthy of a greater eharaeter. Thecerenftony ended, Orlof was ordered to quit the empire; and lately was travelling hk CferAany, aitfd in the south c^Europe* CHAPTER VI. MOSCOW. State of Eitiiesvn Siberia^^T^ibalski^Gemrous Condu^ of a Citizen — Prince turned Pawnbroker — Picture Deal^ ' ers-'-^tate of Medictne-^Mamners of the People — Opi-- nians entertained of ilte EngHsh^-^Relatiue Cmdition of Slaves and their Lord^-^-^oble Behaviour of Count Go-- valkir^s Peas&nt9-^^Servants of the J^Tobility — Theft com- mitted hyaPiBprty ofJVobles-^onvent oftheMiw Jerusa-- ' lenv^JV'hv Prohibitions-^PubUck Censors — Convent ^ the'Trifiity-^Church of St. Basil-^lvan BasUaisich — * TubervUle^d Letters. IN Bttgland we hear of persons sent to Siberia as a very severe pnm^ment, and entertain very enroneous na- tions concerning the state di exiles in that country. To a. Russian nobleman, the sentence of exile can hardly implj • The place where state prisoners arc kept* ¥2 ' ■ 54 CLARKK'> TiykVSI«S.4N RUSSIA. punishment., l^lie oens^qnenee of thftir ymmfff h ^f^ often an amelioration of their qnderg^andingf* ami Umir. hearts. They have no parti eular Attachment Cp their ieottH'^ try ; none of that malaaie du pat^y which siekeiif thei«oii|^ q/ an Englishman in banishment* They are boi^nd hyiBOi. strong* ties of affection to their families^; neiUu»rJbaiF«.tke|r: any friendihjp worth preserving* Tpbobkty from the oiins*.^ her and rank of the exiled, is become a larg^ and popnloii^i city, full of shops and society , with theatres avdekf^aniaar semblies of amusement. Its inhabitants, above.t.11^ Ihour^ sand versts from Moscow, liavebooksell^S, masqu^rad^^ French hotels, and French wines, with the porter and hear of England. Those who have resided ther^, either as ofr^ fieers on dut;^, as travellers, or as ei^iie4,.give the hi^^t accounts of its gayety and populatiop. • An -oii&eer ofis#ii*» siderable rank in the Unssian service told m^ he w^f^ald iUr ther have the half of his pay and Jtve at Tobolski, than 4ji« whole of it in residence at* Petersburgb. Many'>\^«.bav«i. been ordered home have wished and sought ta return thi-.- ther. This is no subject of wonder* Tobolskiis admirai hly adapted to the Russian tas^e. According taG.meitn, U' is a very temple of Bacchus and indolence. PravisioiMi. were so cheap when he was there, in the middle of tl^e laat; century, that a person might maintain himsejf for ten ros* bics a year ; not two pounds of our money. His aeiMiiMit of. the Carnival and Easter festival* proves thera was nat. much difi*erenee between the state of society in Tobolski. and in Moscow at that time| and ihere is muah leas at*. present. ' A circumstance occurred during m^ abod^ in Mosjepw^at- . tended by a trait of so much generosity in a Russiant that I conceive it deserves to be ^elajted* On Wednesday, the seventh of May, the sub-governor i-eeeived an order for bis . exile to Siberia. No reason whatever was assigned for the displeasure of the emperour ; no offence waa alleged. The whole city flocked to take }ei^ve of. him, for he was much • * ** Les gens les plus considerables se rendoient Tisite et se donncuent de« div^rtisseraens. Quant au peuple il 6io\t ootnme fou: ce n'etoit jour et nuit que promenades^ eris^ toinallug, batteries. II ^toit diffiulc d'allcr dans les rues, tant il y aToit d'hommes, de femmcs, de bdtes^ et de tj aiueaux." Voyage en Sib^ricy traduit par Keralio, tona. I. p. ^^* ^ . *• On j^'usse gaiment Us ffetes de Paques k recevoir ct taire des vi- AifiM. Jut peuple 8*amttsa k-sa mmii^re; ce dont il s'oocupa le plusfut le oommeroe dey 4^e« imbUimes ((aj ne sont pas rares k Tobolsk. J« u oivoU Tik imlle part tunt dcs geos san n«z quQ /en ^t ic!*'* IMp {»« 67. \ 1>diH>«il:; atkS^^ge^iis as such a testimoiiT of their aflfec* tion ^ight^proTe, yet they erowded to his hause^ and eon-^ sidBrcd him as a man saer?fieet( to the eaprice of a tyrant* Among otherd caiAe a hinnble citizen, and demanded ad* mission. It was granted. ^ Tou are going' to leave us^^^ said ht^^amt'tnaffnof have tifns to settle your affairs. Do you w/twan^ money? I come as your hanker. ^^ ** I have nee j of«ofiie^'^ said the govemouf, "^^but it is much more than ywii can furnish.*^ ^ JTow much ?" " « Twenty fire thou- sand rotthl^J^ The honest fallow withdrew, and speedilr returning with tiotes to the amount of the sum specified^ placed them on ^e table, carefully counting Ihem over, then made his bow, and retired. !i%cqnaintanee wfth Camporesi, the architect, procured meadifrissieU at the house of* prince Trubetzkoi, a dealer in mineFais, pictures, hosiery, ii^ts, cutlery, antiquities, in shoit,' all the furniture of shops and museums* Having^. sqaandercd away hts ftirtune, be picked up a livelihood by selling, for hhnself "and others, whatever came in his way. Hi«'hease^ like a pawnbroker's shop, exhibited one general BiagaztDe, occupying several rooms. A prince presiding over it, and practising all the artifices of the meanest trades^ mam, w^ a spectacle perfectly novel. Any thing mi^ht b^ boRghtof hi^ hi^ness, from k pair of bellows to a picture by C!)a^& Lorraine. Iti the same room might be seen liandr kerdbrefe, stockings, artificial flowers, fans, Cologne water^ soap, pomatum,, prints, backs, guns, pistols, minerats? j^w*^ el#y, Inv^ness, saddles, bridles, second-hand clothes, swords^ staffed birds^ bronzes, buckles, buttons, snuff-boxes, wigs, walahes, iroots, and shoes. ** M)r house," said the prince, as^ we filtered, -^^mild all it cottlains, is at your service, or any one^'elfe who will buy it! I will sell you the house for a aiiigle' rouble, provided you will pay me also a rouble for eaah artiek; of its furniture." While we bargained with hb highil%ss, prhH^ L. sent a note, which he read aloud. It WM^ to hoi*ro^w noney. ^ Here's a man," said prince Trubetzkoi, '^ with a million of roubles in his drawyngr room, sends to me for forty five, to pay hi? expenses iatf the ^oiiAti^. Yim «««<fcav we go on in Rustia 1" The.«umhep of pictures in Moscow is really astonishing. There are four or five eminent dealers, who have large col- leefio^a. The {>ala^8 of the nobles are^ many of them, filkd, And there is not oae of their ewnens unwilling to sell aiftj pieHtre thfy posaess* |i jie^ms m if wki i^urape to4 m Clarke's travels in rvssia* been ransacked to supply such collections: ' Atflrst tieir, a room adorned by them has an imposing and very brilliant appearance ; but, upon a nearer approach, the clbarm vait«- ishes. They are almost all of them copies, ^nd the major J>art of them brought from Vienna. But the Bor^slans them* selves are, as I have said before, so itii^enioiis in the art of imitation, that a nobleman, of skill and judgmetit in paint- ing, has been^known to purchase of a dealer, copies made ii few days before by otie of his own slaves, who went from his easel to his more usual and daily^ oc'cflpation of black- ing shoes, and afterwards got drunk with the wages of his ingenuity. As the nobles have rarely any money at com- inand, their traflick in the line arts, as in othei* things, is carried on by exchange. This sort oif barter is of all things that in which they' take the greatest delight. They pur- chase a picture for a carriage, or an embroidered suit of clothes, just as they pay their physician with a siinff-b(rx» in every thing the same infantine disposition ts displayed, and, like children, they are tired of their toys almost in the moment they have acquired them. In thtsir choice of pic- tures, they are pleased only with gay and splendid colour- ing, highly finished, in gaudy frames, ^'quelque'chesed^/xki^ tantP^ to use an expression constantly in their mouthis* The works of Van der Werf, Watteau, Jordaeos^ Berchen, and Jerhard Donw, bear the highest prices x but if prodae*- tions by any of the Bolognese masters are- shown to them, they are rejected. Nothing of the sombre east, however sublime, has any vpjue in tlielr estimation. -The works of the Caracci, Zampieri, or even Michael Angelo, would noi meet admirers. A beautiful head by Oori^giO) not ntaoiy 'years a^o possessed by an artist in London, in tlieedursei^ those adventures to which fine pictures are liable^ fell i&t# the hands of a Russian priest. Hrkept it during tir<sti»#l time, because he had been tdid itHvas a eelebrated woi%i At last he exchanged it for some wretched-cdpies, with «« Italian minatur^-painter. -^^^Itliad tso mttoh- siade^'' fke said, ^^ and the lights were too pale'; it had the air alto^ ther of u head ft*lOim the guillotine;** The m^thoii trf paying;- their physician by trinkets, wliich I before mentioned*, mi^lBl seem an inconveaienee to the faculty ; but it is not so. Or. Rogerson'ftt Petersbnreb, as* I am informed, regularly re? eeived his snuff-box, and as regularly carried it to a jewel- ler ibr sale. Th^^wstler sold il^awin to the fipst noblo^ — n who wanted a,iee for bisphysieiaD; so that the doetoi?- oUaiM 1u» box again : md at last the matter beeame s^ well nnderatood between the jeweller and a physician, that' it was considered hy both parties as a »ort of bauk-note» an* no word^ were oeees^ary in transacting the sale of it. Haring mentioned the nan»e of this respeetable physician, it may be well to say something of the state of medicine ia the country. The nnsiness of an accoucheur is, I believey always |»ractis^ by women. The emperour ordered ^1 the uiidwi^'es to undergo examination before a board of physi- cians, 1^ few days before we left Petersborgh. In the regu- lation, coneemingapotheciuriesy however well intended, Uie s^uua wisdom was not shown. It is a reproach to the couu« Xry, If a stranger arrives, and is in immediate want of aa emetick'*' or any trifling drug, he cannot obtain it without the written order of some physician. If this takes place in the n%ht, he might die before morning ; for the physician^ thoush sent for, eertainlv would not attend. In Petersburgh, the fee of an. eminent physician is twepty five roubles : in Moscow, only one or two. Persons calling themselves JBnglish physicians are found in .almost every town upon the eontinent. Sometimes they have worked in ajootheca* xies' shops in London or Edinburgh ; but eenerallv. thev are Seoteh apothecaries, who are men of professional skill, and of acknowledged suneriority. In some places abroad, the praetitioners are really natives of England : but when* e?er this is the ease, the traveller is eantioned to shun themt however celebrated they may be, as he values his existence. WitlMMit exception, I never met a single Instance of a man ^ talent among expatriated English phvsicians; neither wottld such men leave their conntry, to settle among foreign- ers, unless compelled by eireumstances of misconduct at home. Those Englishmen upon the continent who go by the nam» of physicians, will generally be found, upon in- quiry, to have exercised no such profession in their own eeuntry, but have lived as servants in the shops of apothe- eariesyt ehymists, and druggists, or to have practised as ve« terinary eur^eoas, fkrriers, or itinerant q[uaeks. The Russian nobility are passionately fond of travelling, aad under the eireumstances of tlie emperour Paul's admi- • A remedy almost infaHible against thoa« dang^erous fevfer* -which arc ^i« ootiseqaeiicc of passAn^ ovep uiiwholesoixtQ roanUes m hot eou&trieS) if tftken within tMrentj four hours. t The English ^Yso were at Naples, ki the year lT9^t. ^'^ call to mxtui thc|iie0e99i|yoCtl»c eauUoah<>re |;iven^ .... IB Clarke's TtiATELS in Russia. «ii^3ii£ioii^ this 'passioB inereased with the difficulty of Its gratification. They entertain extravagant nvtions of tht^ wealth and happiness of Englishmen ; and they hare p*ood reason to do so ; since whatever they possess useful or*esti- Qiable comes to them from England. Books^ maps, prints, furniture, clothing, hardware, of all kinds, horses, carriages j hats, leather, medicine, almostevery article of convenience, oomfort, or luxury, must be derived from England, or it is of no estimation. Some of the nobles are much richer than the richest of oar English peers ; and a vast number, as may be supposed, are very poor. To this poverty, and to these riches, are equally joined the most abject meanness, and the most detestable profligacy. In sensuality, they are without limits of law, conscience, or honour. In their amusement, always children $ in their resentment, women. The toys of infants, the baubles of French fops, constitut6 the highest object of their wishes. Noveltv delights the liuman race ; but no part of it seek for novelty so eagerly as the Russian nobles. Novelty in their debaucheries; novelty in gluttony ; novelty in cruelty $ novelty in what- ever they pursue. This is not the ease with the lower class, who preserve their habits unaltered from one generation to another. But there are charaeteristieks in which the Rus- «ian prince and the Russian peasant are the same. They are oil eaually barbarous. Visit a Russian, of whatever rank, at nis country seat, and you will find him lounging about, uncombed, unwashed, unshaven, half naked, eating taw turnips, and drinking qtiass. The raw turnip, is handed about in slices, in the first houses, upon a silver salver, with brandy, as a whet before dinner. Their hair is universally in a statejiot to be described ; and their bodies are only divested of vermin when they frequent the bath. Upon those oeeasions, their shirts and pelisses are held oyer a hot stove, and the heat occasions the vermin to fall off. It is a fact too notorious to admit dispute, that from the emperour to the meanest slave, throughout the vast empire of all the Russias, including all its princes, nobles, priests, and peasants, there exists not a single individual in a thousand, whose body is destitute of vermin. An Engli A gentleman of Moscow, residing as a banker in the city, assured me, that, passing on horseback through the streets, he has often seen women of the highest quality, sitting in the windows fd their palaces, divesting each other of ver- , . MOSCOW^ »# mm^ aQotber trftit^ in add^ion to what I have said befbrtf of their resemblanee to the NeapoUUuis. The trun mannerg of the people are not seen in Peters- borsh, nor even in Mossow, by entering the houses of the nobility only. Some of them, and ^ner&lly these to whonfr letters of reeommendation are obtained, have travelled, and introdace refinements, whieh their friends and eompanionf readily, imitate. The real Russian rises at an earl^y hoar, and breakfasts on a dram with black hrekd.^ His dinner at i^oon consists of the coarsest and most greasy .viands, the seorbutiek effects of which are counteracted by tolted en* combers, sour cabbage, the juice of his vacmnivm'^ and hin nectar ^^o^^ Sleep, whieh renders him unmindful of his- abjeet servitude and-barbarou^ life, he pal'ticukiriy f ndals^s ^ sleepiji^ idways after eating, and going early to his oed. The principal articles of diet are the same every where $ oprease and brandy. A stranger, dining with their most re-> Ined and most accomplished princes, may in vaifei etpeet to^ see his knife and fork changed. If he sends theifa -away, they are returned without even being wiped. If he looks' behind him, he will see a servant spit in the plate he' is W receive, and wipe it with a dirty napkin, to rejnove the dust* If he ventures (which he should avoid, if he is hungry) to inspect the soup in his plate with too inquisitive an eye, h^^ will doubtless discover living victims in distress, whieh ft Russian, if he saw, would swallow with indifferente* - It is^ not known to all, that Potemkin ussd to take vermin- front' his head, and kill them on the bottom of his plate at tab^ ; • and beauteous princesses of Moscow do not scruple to foi^^ low his ei^ample. But vermin unknown to an EngUshmim, and which it is not permitted even to name^ attalfk^ tha- stranger who incautiously approaches too near the Berson»> of their nobility, and visit him from their sc^lute and ehaiins.^ If at table he re^rds hijs n^ig^bour, he sees hkn pleking* his teeth with bis fork, and tl^n pltt9giiig,it inta aplate of- meat which is brought round 4>o alL Tlie hNHvaart 4»f a: Russian kitchen are ineoneeivj^ble i and these ianot a bed) in the whole empii^e? which an English traaiillsi', ^mmt ef^ its eondjition, would vei^ture toappdroadi. « «- In the house of young count Orlof alone, aret^ao leas thai^^ five hundred servants.; Jinany of theni auaiptaaoa^ elolhed^ iMid many others in rags. It is no nm»iial st|^ to see be- hi|id a chair a sort JT. g«^ fi9^mm^^ik& a ik^^oHtan^ volantef in gold and pl^masy, 9^ anotlier heiiind hi» ioak* 90 GLARRe's travels in RUSSIA. ing li^e a bec^gar. The generation has not yet parsed anay, wmeh, at the pleasure of the tsar, were sent to be whipped as dogs. The short liberty they enjoyed in the .reign of Catherine did not suffice to elevate theif minds from (he ^pravity always incident to a state of slavery. Under Paul, the period came again in which they suffered the indigni- ties oflfered to their forefathers. Potemkin, one of the mean- est and most profligate of men, frequently taught them to remember what they had before been, by chasti:;ing with his own hand a prince or a nobleman with whom he chanced to be offended; and the emperour Paul exercised his cane upon the nobles who were his officers. Under such covern- raent, if we find them servile, oppressive, cowardly, and tyrannical, it is no more than may be expected, from their mode of education, and the discipline they undergo. They will naturally crouch with their heads in the dust before au emperour or his favourite, and trample their inferiours beneath their feet. They consider the English as a mercenary nation, and, generally hate them, because they fear them, or court them if they want their support. One of their princes thought proper to declare in publick, at his own table, where we had been invited to dine, and were of course under protec- tion enjoined by the laws of hospitality, that in England there is not an individual, patriot, or placeman, who is not saleable to the highest bidder. He instanced Wilkes, Gibbon, and Burke, with many others; adding: ^' English glavenr is less justifiable than Russian. One is selfishness ; t4ie other, submission to the laws.'' It is very true, that the systeni of slavery in Russia, like many other evils, may sometimes be productive of good* If tlie nobleman is benevolent, his slaves are happy ; for they are fed, elothed, and lodced. In sickness they are attended,* and in old age thejr fina an asylum. In case of accidentt l^om fire, tf a whole village is burned, the^ nobleman must l»nd wood to rebuild it. But when, as generally happens, the proprietor is a man without feeling or principle, their iitoation is indeed wretched. In such instances, the pea« gants often take the law into their own hands, and assassin- ate their lords. To prevent this, the latter live in cities, remote from their own people, and altogether unmindful of M that eoneems them, exeept the hard tribute they are to rceeive. Many ^> the Rassian n»Ue« dare, not venture r tiieirawB villages^ ^ fear ef the vengeance they have Moscow. 4i merited by tk^ir erimes. In thi« sad suryejf it ii aooth* iugf to point out any worthy object, on which the atten^. t!oo, weaned by depravity, may for a few short moment^ repose. Some noble trails hare presented themselves among the slaves. When the father of count Golovkin was reduced to the necessity of selling a portion of his peasants, in^onseq^uenee of debts contracted m the service of (he crown, deputies from the number of his slaves oame to Moscow, beseeching an audience of their lord. One venerable man, the oldest of the number advertised for sale, be§»^d to know why they were to be so dismissed. ^^ Because,'^ said the count, <^I am in want of money, an^ must absolutel;^ pav the debts I have contracted." ^^ How much P" exclaimed al once all the deputies. << About thirty thousand roubles," rejoined the count. ^' God help us ! Bo not sell us f we will bring, the money." . Peter the third was a greater friend to the Russian nobi-. lity, during three months, than all the sovereigns of Rus- sia put together; and in their gratitude, they murdered, him. While, under the oppressive and de^^rading disci', pline of Paul, they kneeled, and kissed the rod. Peter libe* ' rated them from^slavery and from corporeal punishnient*, He permitted them to sell their efiects, and settle in other, countries ; to serve, if thev pleased, under other sovereigns.. In short, he gave them ail they most desired; and they as- sassinated their benefactor. I have already mentioned the swarm of servants in their MlaeeJs. A foreigner wonders how they are siippoited* The. fact is, if a nobleman has fiftv or five*hundred, they do )iot cost him a shilling. Their clothes, food, ^yqtj article. oT their subsistence, is derived from the poor, oppressed peasants. Their wages,]f wages they can be calied, scarce^ exceed an English halfpenny a day.^ |n the whole year^ the total of ^ily pittance equals about live, roubles, forty . seven eopeeks and a half; which, according to the state of exchange at the time we were there, may be estimated at . twelve shillings and ninepence. Small as this sum is, it might have been omitted ; for it is never paid. There ar^ few of the nobles who think it an^ disgrace to owe their servants so trivial a debt. There is, in facl, no degree of meanness to which a Russian nobJemanM'Ul not condescend* * About « eo^eli md « 1^ BdftisQ. 0^ -' ^■ -^ 9$ •LARKE^S TRATBlft XK RUSSIA. To entitnerale the tbinst^s of wlikli we were eye-witoesM^ would only weary and disgust ike reader. I will end with one. A hat had been stolen from our apartments. The ser* rants positiyely asserted, that some yonng noblemen, who had been more lartsh of their friendship and company than we desired, had gained aeeess to the chambers in our ab^ j^ence, and had carried off the hat, with some other movea- bles even of less value. The fact was inconceivable, and we gave no credit to it. A few days after, being* upon an excursion to the convent of the New Jenisaleni, forty five verstB north of Moscow, a party of the nobles, to whom our intention was made known the preceding evening at the Club de J>roblesse^ overtook ns on Horseback. One of them^ mounted on an English racer, and habited like a Newmar- ket jockey, rode up to the side of the carriage ; but hift horse being somewhat unrnly, he lost his seat, and a gust of wind carried off his cap. My companion immediately descended, and ran to recover it for its owner; butwlmt was his astonishment, to perceive his own name, and> the name of his hatter, on the lining. It was no other than the identical hat which one of the party had stolen from onr lodgings, now become a cap, and which, under its al- tered shape, might not have been recognised, but for the accident here mentioned. The love of mimickry, already mentioned as character- istick of the nation, has been carried to a great excess in . the convent of the New Jerusalem ; whicli is not only $in imitation of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, but, as I mentioned in the beginning of the volume, eon- tains representations of all the relicks consecrated in that edifice. It has been bailt exactly afier the same model; and within it are exhibited, the tomb of Christ $ the stone which was rolled from the sepulchre ; the holes in which stood the crosses of our Saviour and the two thieves eruei- lled with him ; the prison in which they relate he was con- fined ; together with all the other absurdities fabricated by. the empress Helena and her ignorant priests at Jernsalefu* Finding, however, some diflerence between the repre-> tentatioR made of the original building in the Holy Land,, and its model here, I asked the monks the reason of the al- teration. They replied: << Our building is executed with more taste, beoanso it is ns^re omamotttal ; ««d there are many good judges viho^prdTer ours to the original |" thus ifltoit igfionuitly imo^i^ that the eliarA at Jenisakai) «• long; an object of adoratioo, &ad been so, rather oo aeeount Df its beauty, than any thiog contained in it. But nothing can prove with more eflbet, to what an abject state of men- tal darkness the human mind maj fall, than that th^ trum* pery here, not having even the empty title to reverence, which relieks may claim, but confessedly imitations, should receive the veneration and (he worship paid to their oriei- iials. A fat and fiUhy priest, pointioe to a hole in the niidst of Russia, exclaims : <* Here stood the holy cross !" while boorish devotees shed over it tears of piety, as genu- ine as those which fall from the eyes of pilgrims in the ta- bernacles at Jerusalem. Within a cell, to which they have given the name of the prison of Jesus Christ, sits a wooden figure, so ridiculously dressed, that it is impossible to view it without lauehter. It is as la^ as life, and in- tended to represent the Messiah in his eonfinement, wirh a veil of black crape east about the head, face, and shoulders. The << Vii^in with three hands," also makes her appear- ance here ; , and an ancient picture is exhibited, which they fay came from Jerusalem. It is exactly like those modem paintings now manufiietured in Russia for the chnrehes and household gods, and was probaUy one of. tlie original mo- dels of the art. The dome of the building may be esteemed among the iinest works of architecture in the country. It is lighted in a very pleasing manner. The expense of its completion has been stated at thirty eight tnoisand roubles $ or I should have suspected it to have been much more. In the library of the convent there is nothing remarkable, except thirty pieces of lead, shown as the money paid to Judas Is- eariot for betraying Christ ; and of course copies of a si- milar pretended relick at Jerusalem. The dresses of the priests are also exhibited, eovered with jewels* One mitre alone, or cap, is Talued at twenty four thousand roubles. Some modern manuscript bibles, in the Russian lavguage, presented by the late empress, are seen most sumptuouoly bound in covers of gold, and studded with enamelled paint- ings, which are set round with brilliants of the finest Sibe- rian emeralds, and other precious stones. The approach to this convent is by a gentle ascent, on a^ €ne, verdant plain. It is situated in a pleasing countrv $ %nd the excursion to it conducts a stranger through the M Clarke's travels in riTssia. most agreeable of the envirops of Moscow. It was onee fortifiei ; and a few pieces of old, neglected artillerj lie near the gate, beneath some trees. We were presented to the superiour, the most greasy monk, without exception, I ever beheld. He spoke to ns in Latin, and gave us the history of their great patriarch Ni- eon, whose portrait we had seen in the church ; and, who rose from the lowest station to the high office he held. Af- ter his marriage a separation took place, by the mutual eon- sent of husband and wife; one becoming prior of a monas* tery, and the other prioress of a convent. When we returned to Moscow, we found the inhabitants murmuring in consequence of new prohibitions. A ukase had appeared, which forbade the importation of any kind of foreign literature; and under this head were included maps, mnsiek, and whatever might be construed a medium of science. It will require another generation to recover the cheek which rising eenius then sustained. Some notion may be formed of the administration of the pubJick censors, hy a domieiHary visit of the booksellers, received during our residence* in Moscow. The shops were to undergo ex^- amination for prints or plans of Riga. £yery article of their property was of eourse overhauled. Wherever any thing appeared bearing the remotest reference to Riga, for whatever nurpose calculated, it was instantlj condemned. If the word ^^Riga'' chanced to make its appearance in any hook, however valuable, tlmugh but on a single pa^, the leaf was torn out. In tliis manner, they destroyed m one day, works of geography, history, the arts, atlasses, die- tionaries, voyages; ravaging^ tearing, and blemishing, wherever they came. That the Russians have talents, no one will deny; but^ they dare not show them. Sinee the death of Catherine, it has seemed the wretched policy of their government to throw every obstacle in the way of intellectuaiimprovement. Genius became a curse to its possessor. Wit, a passport to Liberia. Apathy, stupidity, and ignorance, were blessings. Troth and science, qualifications for the knout. The au-. tbor of ''M&n Voyage a Moscou^^ atoned for the brilJianee of his understanding in the wilderness of Tobolski. A bon Tiidty an epigram, the sparks and ebullitions of inventive ge- nius, like sudden flashes of lightning in the darkness of a nocturnal tempest, rendered, as they vanished, more sensi- ble impressions of surrounding horrour. The splendour of IIOSOOW. ti tii^ Ibti^ iky whtoh enligfiten^d t!i« reign of Catberhie^eoTi- trasted with the gloomy period of Paal's admin istratioo, may be justly compared with the moral and natural pheno- mena of the empire^ now brightened by a eontinual san^ and now darkened by aninterrupted night. The number of prohibitions beeame so numerous, and many of them wer^ so trivial, that it was necessary to carry about manuals of tibedienee, and assist the memory by pocket catalosues Of forbidden things. Some of these prohibitions excited more langfater than fear. Pug dogs, from the emperour't 'resemblance to them, were prohibited any other name than ** Mops.^^ Ivory-headed canes were on no account to be permitted : being reserved solely for the use of the mili- tary. These, and many other absurd regulations, expo- sed foreigners daily to the insolence of the police. My companion was actually arrested for not wearing'flaps to his waistcoat : and I narrowly escaped punishment for hav- ing strings in my shoes. The convent of the trinity, distant forty miles from Mos^ •cow, is deemed particularly worth seeing, on account of its immense riches. Rather more than two miles further, is another convent, less known, but more remarkable. It contains within its walls a Gothic church, erected over a mount, supposed to typify the mountain of the ascension of Jesus Christ. At the n»ot of the mount, and within it, is a small chapel, containing figures executed in wax, to rep- resent the resurrection of Lazarus. This extraordinary ivork has been planned by Plato, archbishop of Moscow, who resides there, and under whose inspection the whole was executed. The place is called Vifanij. But the most remarkable edifice, as it aftbrds a striking* monument of national manners, is the church of St. Basil, near the Kremlin. It is a complete specimen of the Tartar taste in building; and was erected by Ivan Basilovich the second, in 1538. To add to the singularity of itshistor}^, it was the workmanship of Italian architects. Its numerous and heavv cupolas, surmounted by gilded crucifixes, exhi- bit a striking contrast of colour and ornament. Pious in- dividuals bequeath legacies towards the perpetual gilding or painting of this or that dome, according to their varions fancies; so that it is likely to remain a splendid piece of ^ patch-wofk for man^r generations. In ortler to account for the oriein of this building, and the oriental style exhibited in its formation, we must look back to the period of the 0 3 06 «LARKE's travels in RUSSIA. Rqisiaii history in which it was oonsimeied. The fttories^ we have hiiberte received of the moiiarchf in whose pi«tj or ostentation it is said to hare originated, are so eontra- dietorj, that the subjeet itself merits a iittie investigation. The niore we in<|uire into the real history of Russia, and of Russian 8overeigns9 the more we shall have reason to beliere that the country and its people, have undersoae little vari- ation sinee the foundation of the empire. Tet^r the Great might eut ofiT the beards of the nobles, and substitute Euro* Sean habits for Asiatiek robes $ but the inward man is still ^e same.* A Russian of the nineteenth century possesses • Those wRo knew Potemkin, or who will merely attend to what it rela- ted of him in page 60, will find that a picture of the manners of -Rassian nobles, mode in tlie seventeenUi oentury, equally repi^sentad tkose of theiv- princes in the eighteenth. " Pendant le re^as les rots qui leur sortent de la houche avec I'odeur, de I'eau de vie, de Tad, de l*oignon, et des raves, joints aux vents do has ventre, dont its ne sont point scrupidenx, exhalent une corruption capable de fiure crever oeux qui sont aupr^s d'eux. Its ne portent point leura rnoaehoira dans leurs poches, mais dans leurs bonnets ; et conune its out loujours la tftte nne loi^nu'ils sont k table, s'ils ont besoiu de se moucher, ils se servant de leurs dolgtits, qu*ils essuyent ensuite, et leur ner, k la nappe " Vm^agt en Jlfo9C07ne, par AugtuHn, Baron de JUmferbur^, licid. 1688. p, 63r OleariuSy aeeretary to the ambassadour from the <x)urt of Denmark^ gave a similar account of their morals in the middle of the seventeenth century. The following short extracts are from the best edition of his works, trans- but la vertu, etla gloire, qui en est inseparable — -Leur industrie etla sal»- tillte de leur esprit paroist principidement en leur trafic, oik il n*y a point de finesse, n'y de tromperie dont ils ne se servent, pour foui*ber les autres» ^ustost que pour se Uefendre de I'estre." Voyage (T Oleav Tom. I. p. 145. ** Et d'autant qne la tromperie ne s'exerce point sans fiaussete, sans mentcries et sans defiances, qui fen sont inseparables, ils sgavent meryei)- kwwemeiit ^en s'aydcr de ces belles qualitiies, aussi bien que de la caloomie.'' /5iV/.p.l46. H » 1 ** De cette fagon d'agir des Moscbvites, et du peu de fidelity qulls ont entr'eux. Von petit jiie-er de cegue les Estran^ero en pewfent eaperer^ etjusgu'd quel poiftt ton s*tf peut^. lis n' offirent jamaio leur amtUf et rCen contraciertt jamais, qtte poiur leur interest parttculier,€t d dessein d^enprqfTter. Lji mauvaise nouiriture qu'on leurdoftne en leur jeunesse, en laqueile, ils n'apprennent au plus qu'a Kre et e8ciire,et ouelques petites priires vdl^aires, fit qu'ils suivent aveuglement ce que I'on appelle aux • testes I'instinct; de sortequela nature estant en elle mesme depray^e eC corrompue, leur vie ne peut estre qu'ne debordement et d^regleraent con- tinue!. C'est pour quoy I'on n*y voit rien que de brutal, et des effets de leurs passions etapp^tits dosordonn^s, k qui ils lasohent la bride, sans aucuoe retenue.*' Ibid. p. 148. •• Le nature! perv^rs des Moscovites, et la bassesse en laqtiette 51s sont nourris, joirit k la servitude, pour laqueUe ils Semblent estre n^s, font que I'on est eotitramt de les tratter en bestes, plust6st qu'en personnes raison- nablcs. £t ils y sont si bien aecoustuAes, qu'il est aomme impossible de ics porter au travail, si I'on n'y employe le fouetetlebastpn." Ibid. p. %9S, MOSCOW. »7 utl'ihe servik ^rep^Mlties, the bftriiarity of masnert, the enieitj, hy]ftoerisy, and proAigaey, whieh characterized hU anee$t<H*9 in the ninth. John Badih>vieh the first has been considered as one of the fomiders of the Rucsian empire; bot his accession did not take place till the middle of the fifteenth eentttry. lie arose, tike Bif6kiaparte, in a period of national dismay, eonfnsion, and calamity ; and, thoueh described as a man of impettions rices and Tiolent passions, intrepid, artful, treacher6n9, and having all thf ferocity of a sayage, he haa been lukifeld' as the deliverer of his country, and dignified by the appellation of the^eo^. It is a title which an oppressed intimidated people have frequently bestowed upon tyrants* Until his dme, however, Tartars were lord^ of Moscow $ the tsars themselves beine: obliged to stand in the presenee of their ambassadours, uliile the latter sat at meat, and to endure the most humiliating ceremonies. Basilovich shook off the Tartar yoke ; bot it was a long time before the Rassians, always children of imitation, ceased to mimiek a people by whom they had been conquered. They had neither arts nor opinions of their own ; every thing in Moscow was Tartarian ; dre9s, manners, buildings, equipa^s $ in short, all, except religion and language. . Basilovich, at the eonqnest of Casan, waa solemnly crowned with the dia- dem of that kingdom ; whieh is said to be the same now used for the coronation of the Russian sovereigns* In the reign of his suecessour, Moscow was again taken by that people, and its tsar subjected to an ignominious tri- bnte. Twelve years afterwards, the eldest son of that snc« eessonr, John Basilovich the second, then an infant^ bill afterwards a ferocious and implacable tyrant, came to the throne,* It is the more necessary to introduce these remarlts, beetase authors of eelebrity^ SQcb, for example, as I^uffendroff, offer very erroneous notions ,iothe stodeut in mofJem history. " On se tromperoitDeaucoup," saysbej, " a poar ooanoltre Les Russes d'aujourd Uui, on s'ari'etmt aux portraits qui' Oftt etS fails de cette nation avantle eommencemeut de cc siede." Intro<t ti UaUtwne Modem, &c. Tom. XV. p, 284- edit Paris, t756r * Some writers endeaTOUredto apolc^e for the oondnet ^nd eharletei^ of John BaaQovich the second. The editors of the Modem Universal History even iiMsak of him with eulopum. [Vol. XXXV. p. 259] Mr. Coxe thinks hw diaraoter has been misrepresented [Trav. via. 1 p. 302] and yet allows it would be ^* contra^ to historical evidence to deny many of the cj»eltiea committed by him.^ If the horrible crueltfes related of this 'ibj 1>r. CruU ts^aQ«oo(iit of Muscov}^, vol. I. p. 331.*Xoad. 169&^*1 M CLARItE^S TRAVELS I^ RtJSStA« ' It is a cdrioug fkct, that in tbe very opening of fiis reign we read of the arrest of no less than three hundred artists, intended for Russia, in the town of Lttbeck. What the great work then cariying on in Moscow was, is now uncer- tain ; hut it evidently proves a disposition, on the part ef the soverei^, to superinduce thiB arts of western nations over the long established, orieMal eustoras of his peeplew In this feign was built the church to which I have aJluned. The artists arrested in Lubeek were Germans. The arehi- teets employed for the church of 8t. Basil were Italians ; probably obtaioed by the connexion which subsisted between tbe tsars of Muscovy and the emperoors of Constanti- jDople.* From whatever country, they came, the taste dis- played in the edified is evidently Tartarian. How much the manners of the people were so at this period, may be Ahown by reference to the curious and interesting doco-> ments preserved in Hakluyt's Coilectton of Voyages. It was during the bloody administration of the tyrant who then ruled in Russia, that the first ambassadouN w«ntfroiii England to that country. By the accounts they sent home, it appears the situation of Englishmen in Russia was pre* dsely what we experienced two hundred and thirty j&ktn afterwards under the tyranny of the emperour Panh the Same disgusting race around them $ the same dread of b.^ing communicative in their letters; the same desire to quit a scene of barbarity and profligacy. The secretary to Ran- dolph, who went as ambassadour from queen Elizabeth, ivas a person of the name of George Tubervile, and wrote ** Certain Letters in Verse,** to Dantie, Speneer^ and Parker, ' describing the maners of the eoumtrey and people.' be untrue, -what shaU be said to the narrative of those who were eye-wit- nesses of many of his enormities ? Crull says, his affected sanctity led Jovim into the mistake of calling tdm a gQod Christian, '^ But if any delight to rcade the terrible and bloudie acts of Ivan Basilo-wich, he may dut, if not drowne himselfe in bloud, in that historie which jPatt/ Offerdernehalh writ- ien of his fife, and both there and in others take view of other his unjust acts. I will not depose for their truth, though I cannot disprove it :' adver* taries perhaps make the worst. Jpor myselfe, I list not to rakie sinke* against him, and would speak in liia defence, if I found not a^ UQiversall •d&spiraey of all historie and reports against him." Purcha9 hit Pilgrimn^ lib.iv.c.9.$l. * Some years afterwards, A. D. tS57, tke tsar ftgaiii made an uhsim* eessful application to the court of Vienna for artisU; slating, tbat **he could easily procure them from France and Italy ; but that he gave the ftreferenee to Germans, knovring them to be an upright, virtuous, and, honest people." See the auihort dted in tb« Jibd. Unh^ UUt. tul, XXXV. p. ai7. He appear! to have been a joong man of fksliioii at that time. I bare selected some of the most striking passi^f in these letters for a note.* They are rerj little known, • •* I left ray native soile full like, a retchlesse mnn. And unacquainted of the coast, amons the Runes ran : A people passing rude, to vices vfle mclindey Foike fit to be of Bacchua train, so quaffing ii their luade. ** Such lieour as tbey luive, and as the countrey gives. But chiefly tvo, one iJalled kuasf whereby the mouaike lives. Small ware and watertike, but somewhat tart hi Uste, The rest is meade of hoaie made, wherewith their lips they bute. " Tlieir idolet have their hearts, on God they never call. Unless it be fJitehola Bough J that han^ agsinst the wall. The house that hath no god, or pamted saint within. Is not to be resorted tOj that roofe is fall of sinne." Hdhluyfi Voyaget, pp. SS4— 5. He then pronbeds to mention the dissolute lives of the women, and their manner of painting their cheeks ; at the dose of his letter to Spencer, says ; -"The pec^le beastly bee. I write not an I know, I tooeh but here and there, forif Idiould, mypenne would pinch, and eke offend I feare. '* They say the lions paw gives judgment of the beast ; And so may you deeme of the great, by reading of the least'* Ibid, p. 387. In his letter to Parker, the Tartar dress and manner is thus strikingly i&« introduced : " Their garments be not gay, nor handsome to the eye ; A cap alSl their heads they have, that standeth verv me, "Which colpackihej do terme. They weare no ruffes at all ; The best have cullers set with pearle, whieb th^ rubatcnk ealL Their shirts in Rusae long, they woike them downe before. And on the deeves with coloured silki^ two inches good and more. ** These are the JUvsnea robes. The richest use to ride^ From place to p|aoe, his servant runnes, and followes by hia sidt^ The CassBcke beares his felt, to force away the raine : Their bridles are not very brave, their saddles are but plaine« «* For when the Rustle is pursued by cruel fbe. He rides away, and suddenly betakes him hit hoe. And bends me but about in sftddle as he sits. And therewiihall amids his race his following foe he hits. ra GLARKB'f TlkA.V«fU IN RUSSIA. M^ w«Etli the rMider'« attention ; not merely beeante dMf prove that Russia now io preoisely what it was when they ^were written, bnt as eorions entmples of earlv Eoglish po.' etry* The work in whieh they are contained is extremely nu^9 and bears an enormous priee. eHAPTEB VII. MOSCOW. /Bkmday Mmrhet-'^promenades during Baster^Sh'emHn — Holy Qwt^^Ghnat Bell — "Grtat Gun^-^ncient PeUac^ of th$ Tsars^^lm'ptrial IVeasury — Manuscripts — 8u)oerh Moiel-^Generid Appearance of the ICremlinr^First . Christian Chureh-^Festival of me Asemsion. THE market on a Sundi^ in Moseow is a novel and i\u teresdng speetiiffile. From five in the morning till eig*ht9 the P&ee de Oallitxin, a spaeioiis ar^a near the Kremlin, is filled by a concourse of peasants, and people of every description, coming to buy or sell white peacocks, fan-tailed and other curious pigeons, dogs of all sorts, for the sopha or the chace, singing-birds, poultry, guns, pistols, in short, whatever chance or custom may have rendered saleable. The sellers excepting in the market of singing- birds, which is prominent and very lai^e, have no shops ; but remain with their wares either exposed upon stalls, or hawking them about in their hands. Dogs ana birds consti- tute the principal artides for sale. The pigeon-feeders are Their bowesare very short, Jake Turkic boughs outright. Of sinowes made with birehen barfce, in eunniog manner digbt. *''The fDniincn «re 80 Turkie Rke, the tnen to foH of gofle, The women wanton, temples stuft with idoles that defile The seats that sacred ought to be, the customs are so quaint. As if I would describe the whole, 1 feare my pen would faint. In summe, I say, I never saw a prince that so did raigne. Nor people so beset with saints^et all but Tile and vaine* Wilde Irish arc as civiU as the RussieB in their kinde, Hai-d ohoice which Is the best of bolh, eeh bLoodv, rude and bUnde.** MOSCOW. Vi ixaAn^ishei in ttie inidst of the mob by lon^ wlilte waiid% which they carry to direct the pi^oBs in their fiig-ht. The nobles of Moseow tftke gtetii delight in these birds, and a iiToarite pair will sell from fiv^e to ten roubles in the mar^ ket. I was astonished to see the feeders, by way of exhibit ting their birds, let them fly, and recover them again at pleasure. The principal recommendation of the pigeons eonsists in their rising to a great faeight, by a spiral eurvc) ail flying one way, and following each other. When a bird is launched, if it does nbt preserve the line of curvature which the others take, the feeder whistles, waving his wand, and its course is immediately changed. During such exhi- Vitions, the nobles stake their money in wagers, betting upon the height to which a pigeon will ascend, and the numoer of curves it will make in so doing. Among dogs for i\v^ chase, we observed a noble breed, eommon in Russia, m ith long, fine hair like those of Newfoundland, but of amazing size and height, which are nsed in Russia to hunt wolves. Germanpug-dogS) so dear in London, here bear a low price. I was oflered a very fine one for a sum equivalent to a shil* ling English. We observed, also, English harriers and fox- hounds : but the favourite doe in Moscow is the English terrier, which is very rare in Russia, and sells for eighteen roubles, or more, according to the caprice of the buyer and seller. Persian cats were also offered for sale^ of a bluish grey or slate colour, and much admired. Seeing several stalls apparently covered with wheat, I approached to examine its quality, but was surprised to find that what had the appearance of wheat consisted of large ants' es*gs, heaped for sale. Near the same stalls were tubs full ot pismires, crawling among the eggs, and over the persons of those who sold them. Both the eggs and the ants are brought to Moscow as food for nightingales, which are favourite^ though common birds in Uossian houses. They sing in every respect as beautifblly in eages as in their native woods. We often heard them in the bird-shops, ^varblin^ with all the fulness and variety of tone which characteri* zes the nightingale in its natural state.* The piice of one of them, in full song, is about fifteen roubles. The Russians, by rattling beads on their tables of tangible ftrithmetiek^ can make the birds sing at pleasure during * I haye been nnee iofflrmed, that tbk method of heei^g $ad fosdiiis ^IgbtingHlcs U beconung prevalent U our own cottntrjr. V9 tLARKE's TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. tlie day $ but nlglitingftles are heard throiq^out the lugbt) making the streets of the city resound the meloilies^ ofthe forest. The promenades at this season of .the year are among the many sights in Moscow interesting to a stranger. The principal is on the first of May, Russian stjle, in a forest near the city. It affords a yery interesting spectacle to strangers, because it is frequented by the oourgeoisie as well as by the nobles, and the national costume may then be observed in its greatest splendour. . The procession of car- riages and persons on horseback is immense. Beneslth the trees, and upon the greensward, Russian peasants are seen seated in their gayest dresses, expressing their joy by shout* ing and tumultuous sonss. The musicK of the balalaika^ the shrill notes of rustick pipes, clappinj^ of hands, and the wild dances of the gipsies, all mingle in one revelry. The wives of merchants, in droskis and on foot? display head-dresses of matted pearls, and their most expensive at- tire. In costliness of apparel, there is no dinerenee be- tween a Moscow princess and the wife of a Moscow shop- keeper; except, that one copies the fashions of London and Paris, while the other preserves the habit of her ancestors. During Easter, promenades take place every evening, Taryin^ occasionally the site of cavalcade. They are made in carriages and on horseback; the number of the former being greater than any occasion assembles in other cities of Europe. The intention of such meetings is the same every- where $ to i^ee and to be seen. Equipages continue to pass in the same constant order, forming two lines, whieh mrve parallel to each other. The spectaele sometimes beggars all description. Beautiful women, attired in costly ana be- coming dresses, fill the balconies and windows of houses be* tweeu which the cavalcade proceeds te its destinatioii. Hussars and police-officers are stationed in different parts^ to preserve order. When arrived at the place particularly set apart for the display of the procession, the strangec wUh amazement beholds objects which can only be matched in the most wretched purlieus of St. Giles's ; miserable hovels, and wooden huts, hardly discernible amidst clouds of dust. On Friday in Easter-week, the place of prome* pade is better selected : it is then on a plain called La Vallit^ Slid the sight is the most surprising that can be conceived. liSfng bc^re reaebing this plain, the throng of carriages is M ^at ilmt thej can seareely move.** At last the great Meiie opens, ana the ritw whieh breaks, all at once, upon the tpeetator !« indeed striking. A proeession, far as the qw ean reach, is seen passing and repassing a spacious and beaattful lawn, the fiirther extremity of which appears ler- minated by a eonvent. No less than two thousand car- riages, generalij with six horses (o each, but never less than foar, are present opon this occasion. So much for the ^neral effeet. The appearance in detail, of the equipages, laekeys, and drivers, is an exeellent burlesque upon gran- deur. The postillions are generally old men of a wretched aspect, dressed in liveries of worsted laee and cocked hats, who hold their whip and reins as if they were never before mounted. The harness eonsists of ropes and cords, fre- qisently n^ged and dirty; very unlike the white traces ttsed in PcSand, which have a pleasing if not magnificent appearance. The carriages themselves, if not altogether as wretched as die uight«coaches of London, are ill built^ oM fashioned, heavy, and ugly. It is only the amazing num- ber ef eqalpages that affords ideas of wealth or greatness. Examined separately, every thing is little and mean. The proeessioB is seen on the plain as far as the convent before mentiened, and retomingback in the order it advanced. In the lisie between the carriages, a space is reserved for the eavaliers, who make their appearance on the most beauti- fill English and Turicish horses, ridins, as they all main- tain, a PAngloiSj but without the smallest resemblance to ihe manner of Englishmen. Their horses are taught the wume'ge, and continue to pace and champ the bit, without advmieii^astep; occasionally plunging like those exhi- bited in amphitheatres, while their riders, in laced coats and raffles, with eocked hats, and saddles sumptuously em« • It may be wcU Ao insert here an extract frdm Mr. Hsbsb's JwcnuO^ aoncerDiag the population of thi« remarkable city, aft that gentieina» haa ttade Tety particular inquiry upoa the autgect, and his zealous attentioa to secoracy appears in every statement. ^ •* The circuit of Moscow w« have heard variously stated ; it m^, per- haps, he aboot thirty six versts [twenty six miles] but this includes many void nnces. The population isy as usuaU exagBerated. It la deeidedly greater Hian that of Petersbnrgh ; I should thini three or fttur tknes as Much* jadeiaff from tha cooeoorse in the streets. The extent in eompanaon wita that of Peterahorgh, is nearly^ as may be seen hy the plan, tvehe to one « yet, from the master of the police, Of all m«B the most likely to know, the pepuibtioa was estifnaied «t only SSi^MM) fixed Inhaliita&ta. The sarvinto sad nuiaerous retainers of the nobles may be perhapa estBajted at neartf 30,(»0^ wittcb we oftly here in winter.** Meber$ MS. Jeternali H Y4 (Marke's travels m Russia, broidered, imagine they ditplay sorppistng feaU bf itofM^- manship. Several families preserve the aid Russian eos- tUHie in their servants' habits ; others eloflie their att^ni- ants like running footmen in Italy | so that the vari«ity forined by the motley appearance is v«ry amusing. The numberless bells of Moseow eontinue to ring' dnriiig the whole of Easter week, tinkling and tolling, without any kind of harmony or order. The large bell near the cathe- jral is only used on important oceasiQns, and yields tJte iinest and most solemn tone I ever heard. When it somids, n deep and hollow miirmnr vibrates all over Moseow, like the fullest and lowest tones of a vast organ, orthe roUiH^ of distant thunder. This bell is 8iispen4red in a tower cali- ed the Belfry of St. Ivan, beneath others, which, thongl^sf less size, are enormous. It is forty feet nine inshes in esr- eumference ; sixteen inches and a half thick $ and it weighs more than fifty seven tons.* Tlie Kremlin is, above all other places, most worthy a traveller's notice. It was our evening walk, whenever we «ould escape the engagements of society. The view it af- ijbrds of the«ity surpasses every other, both in s insularity and splendour^ especially from St. Ivan's tower. This l»r- tress is surrounded on ail sides by walls, towers and raiii-« parts, and stuffed full of domes and steeples. The appear-- ance differs in every point of view, on account of the strowe irregularity in the edifices it contains. Entering it by £e arched portal, painted red, called The Holy Gate, persons of every description are compelled to wsJk bave^he&ded near a hundred paces. This gate is on the south side, facing the quarter of the shojjs. The approach to it is by a bridge across the fosse which surrounds the walls. It is a vaulted portal ; and over the entrance is a picture,! with a lamp continually burning. Sentinels are here placed, as at all the entranees l« the Kremlin. JNo one venlnres to pass this gate without taking ofl^ his hat. I wished to see if the rule tias rigorously enforced, and, feigning ignorance, • 3551 Russian pouds. Voyage de Dettx Fransais, Tom. lit. p. 295. ^ *« You enter the Holy Gate by a long, narrow bridge over the fosse. On the left hand is a noble view down to the rfver. The whole coup {f»i€ ntueh resembled Seriosapfttain, aft nepresented in Kerr PoKer*s ranora- ma. In paavng nmle* tl»e Holy Gate, all hat« are tdben off, in reTerence for a saint auspended over it, who delivered the citadel, as tradition affirms, . bv striking a sadden panick into an army of Pdles which had possession oT the town, and had almost succeeded in foi-cinff this gate of the Kremlin.'* MOSCOW* n m^fmi beiie%ib llie i^reh witli my hattin. A sentineteliaL- leaged me ; but withoat taking notice of liim, I walked for- ward. Next, a bare-beaded peasant met me, and, seeing mj head eorered, summoned the sentinels and people with rerj loud ex^essions of ai^r; who, seizing me by the Mrmif very soon taaght me in what manner to pass the JSTo^y Gate for the future. The great belt of Moscow, known to be the largest ever Ibandea, is in a deep pit in the midst of the Kremlin. The iiistory of its fait is a fable; and, as writers are aecosfomed 4o eopy oaeh other, the story continues to be propagated. The faet is, the bell remains in the plaee where it was ori- ginallTeast. It never was svspended. The Russians mie^t as well attempt to suspend a iirst rate line of battle ship with all its guns and stores. A fire took plaee in- the Krem- lin, the flames of whieh eaught the building erected over the pit in which the bell yet remained ^ in consequence of \rlueh the metal became hot ; and water thrown to extio- Saish the fire fell «pon the bell, eaustng the fracture which 9» taken place. The emtranee is by a trap door placed even with the surface of the earth. We Ibnnd the steps very dangerous. Borne of them were wanting, and otliers broken^ whieh oeeasioned me a severe fall down the wliole' .extent of the first flight, and a narrow escape for my life in not being ^dashed upon thebeil. In eonsequence of this aeeident, a sentinel was stationed afterwards at the trap door, to prevent people becoming vietims to their euriostty . iie might have been as well employed in mendine the steps, «8 in waiting all day to say thev were broken. The bell is Imiy a mountain of metal. They relate, that it contains a very large proportion of gold and silver; for that, while it was in fusion, the nobles and the people east rn, as votive offerings, their plate and money. It is permitted to doubt the truth of traditionary-tales, particularly in Russia, where people^re much disposed to rotate what they have heard, without onee reflecting on its probability. 1 endeavoured, in vain, to assay a small part. The natives regard it with superstitious veneration, and they would not allow even a grain to bfe filed oft*. At the same time it may be said, the compound has a white, shining appearance, unlike bell-metal in general $ and perhaps its silvery aspect has strenethened, if not given rise to a conjectore respecting the richness of its materials^ 7% «X.AKKB's THAVfiliS IN RUS»1A«^ , On fettivAl days, tbe peoftaats vi»ii |1ie bdiM tbey ^mi4^ a eharefa, eoDsidering it an aet of devotion ; and ther erotf themselves as they descend and aseend tbe steps. The bot- tom of the pit is covered by water, mad, and large piece* of timber, whieb, added to the darkness, render it always an unpleasant and unwholesome place, in addition to the dan* cer arising from the steps which lead to the bottom. I went frequently there, in order to ascertain the dimensions of the bell with exactness. To my f^reat surprise, during; one of those visits, half a dozen Russian officers, whom I lound in the pit, agreed to assist me in the admeasurement. It no nearly agreed with the aceouot published by Jonas Hail'- way, that the difference is not worth notice. This is S9me«> what remarkable, considering the difficulty of exaetiy mea- suring wh^t is partly buried in the earth, and the circumf<^ yence of which is not entire* No one, I believe, has yet as** oertained the size of the lower rim of tbe bell, whi^h wouU affbrd still greater dimensions than those we obtained s but it is entirely buried in the earth. About ten persons wort present when I measured the part which remains exposed ip observation. We applied a strong cord close to tbe metid in 411 parts of Hn. periphery, and round tbe lower part wIm^m it touched the groand, taking eare at the same time nol to stretch the card., f'rom the pieoo of the beAi broken o^ it wa« ascertained that we had thus measured within two feel of its lower extremity. The circumference obtained was sixty sev^n feet and four inches ; which allow* a diar meter of twenty two feet, five inches, and one third of a* inob. We then took the perpendicular height from the tof of tho bell, and found it correspond exactly with the state* tn^n t made by Han w^y, namely : twenty one feet, four Hiehet» and an half. In tbe stoutest part, that in which it should have received the blow of the hammer, ita thickness equalled twenty three inches. We wore able to osan^» tain this» by placing our hands under W9»ter» whore th(S fraeture had taken place, which is above sevouftsot high ft:om the lip of the belU Tho woiglit of thi^ enopmoua maiNi of .metal bi^ been com{Mited to be 449,?'7:9lbs ; which, if valued at three shillings a pound, auMoaits to B^^&%5L i^$^ lying noen^loyed, and of no use to any one«* *'The great heW of Moseow has lonj* been a theme of wonder, afi<l U mefiitiotiett by almost every trav«Hep. The aubjeet is of no importanoe j but it may be well to add, that the accounts given of it do QQt apPily to the t<MBe tUin|f. Qiearius describes that vhiyi he Sftw ia 1639« It is the ssb49 BIOSOOW. n The great gun, wbich is also among the wonders of the Kremlin, Tmeasared with less faciiitj, being always inter- rupted bj the sentinels, one of whom pointed his bayonet at me, and threatened to stab me if I persisted in my inten- tion. Yet, by walking its length, I found it equal to eighteen feet and a half"; and its diameter nay be guessed, when' it is known that it will admit a man sitting upright within its caliber. It is, moreover, ten inches thicK. This gun is kept merely for ostentation, and never used.* Not- withstanding the neglect it has experienced, it remains in goodorder, without injury. It was cast in 1694. Near it arc placed some artillery of less caliber, but of very extra- ordinary length.f 'There was nothing prohibited under more severe penalty than making any drawing or sketch within this fortress ; oft which account I am prevented giving the superb view it affords of Moscow. But as the objects within its walls are- always interesting to strangers, artists of merit were not wanting for their representation. It was, however, with the greatest difficulty I succeeded in obtaining a view of tlie interiourof the Kremlin, containing the ancient palace- of the tsars. A window appears in the front of this^liuild"^ HKittiimed iti 1». 75y of tliw vblmne, focmdeA bf Boris God^not [fiee Olear^ T4MB. i« p* 107.3 AogiiMiney amUwiwdour £roin GenuMj m 16M, de^ aeribes that vhieU is here spoken of. Jonas Hanwayi and those who $vi^- needed him hear reference to the same. It was founded^ according to Au-* gvsttne, in 1655;* dnring the reign of Alexis {See Voyage Sk J^oscott, \t^ U7.] Tha-ftttSiiMit awi |WOfle of Moseow maintain that it was east: dudug.tbe roigo of th«ir emprem Ajane,. probably from th« l«0kale figure represented, which may have been intended for Uie Vii'g;ih. Augustine's, areotint of the weiglit, and his roeasoreroent of the bell, are too near the- tptA't»Mppmo tMf oHwr wn cteseribed by him. Thej employed, «ay» hQi ia oastiag iU a, weight, of metal eqnel to^i440,(X)OU)e. He moeeoTer- states its thicKness equal to two feet, which is witlUn an inch of what has. been here said. He also proves that it is larger than tlie famous beU of £rfe(d» aodeven^an tint of Peida. • *** Aoconfiiig to th<y V<^age d6 D^ux Franjais, torn. II. p. 29^, its weight i»6i0ftpMM&,* end its dimennom, sixteen French feet in length, and foar> Het Uirae.tfMi^ ll^ diaqwelari^^lfdneHing; sixteen loehea for the. thieknea>tOg the piece. ^ . » « . • j- A eiudoas notice of the brais emen^bt the Kreralia Qeaun.iii JSdim*^ Mi8t6ry ofTravayles, as augmented by tVilles, and ]^rinted by Jugge, ii» the blade letter,, at London, in \57f. ft is gathered oUt'of I^alus Jovius^ asid proves tliat they had the nee oC artillery ta Mamom a» eafiy at tho^ rem. of- BasS IvaiN»viclk " J^silUus dyd furUieiriaore laslytuie a haiid^ of barpbiisiers on horsebacke, and. caused many great brasen peeces u» he made liy thi workemanshyp of certayoe fialians ; and the same witla ttoyt sieekeo aadVlkeetes to be ^facea ia tlte eartle of Moaea." EdenU But, p. 301. H2 7a' OLA&KS'S TRAtSiS IK RUSSIA. ingfvhteii b aa iri«giikr, CbtMik t4ifiee) dktk^iiUA by two Gothiek pillars* It is tfae same, they relatfe^fffM* whieh Demetrius, in his attempt to escape, during' tlus eon- spiraey of Zuskr, fell, and broke his thigh, previous to his massaere. He loivered bifnseif to a eonsioerable dis^ tanee h? a rope; bvt tiie faeij^ was stiH too great f«- ainr hope of safety. Despair innst have been g^oat iadeea, urten it indiieed any one to make the attempt That witf* dow was also the plaee where the 8«v»roiMifl of Russia nsod to sit, ami deceive petitbns from their sumets. The petH. tion was piaeei upon a stone in the eonrt heIo«r ; and if the tsar thought propler, he sent for it. The imperial treasure. is now in eases ronnd the walls of the upper apaKmente q£ the palaee: the approoeh to whieh is by a stone staireose,. memoralde for massaeres eonunitted there by theStrelitasee^ during the routing exeited by tins sister of Peter the greats It is not a pleasiiig refleetion, whieh' some writers wooM arge, that the greatest atrocities, in times of anarehy or. despotism, have been perpetrated by women. History, they, affirm, has not recorded, even the severe pen of Tacitus^ has not described, such monsters as CatheriHC de Medieisy, the bloody Mary, and the females of France daring tbeiato revolntien. In the revolt of the Streiitzes, the primoeso SofMa has been aeevsed of' ieadiagtheM to the oiosiitioA o^ the most shocking enoranties. Later writers have iri« dertaken her deftnee ; and among otliers, Mr. Coxe has coI» lected many ingenioos argum^ts to disprove theaspersioao. of ¥<^tatrer Compelled, as wo often 9r9^ to view the ohn-^ raeters of ilhistrlous ])er9ons in the representation of the^ adversaries, made amidst the raneom- and cabal of parties^ wo may sospect the justice of a repvoach thas cast upon tiio* female sex. The unreasonable obloquy to which the eha» raeter of Rtehard the third has been exposed, by writers during the reign of Henry the seventh, is aowprcttv psuo»i zafly admiltedi yet prejudice, when hmgeftabfished, isfiot easily removeii RcfBrriug to the histonr of the Cmsadss, the ^araeens have been atwajyo branded with tho name of barbarians, although their invaders borrowed fhrnn that people the Unt dawntngs of refinement and civilization. A^ seene more striking, as a sofejest for historical paintii^ can hardly he coasetvod, than that which task place npstt Ihia staircase, when the venerable patriarch, bearing in ono. haixd an image of the Virgin Mary, which Yr%» supposed to work miradesy and with Um other Umiiwf yomig doh»M«K k1 t^^ e^iwlltste tkt tUef •riMUBCits off. riittwf fclfomd^j bit mefMM ftkler n^ de«nded, tailing «b tkelofimate mwbW •p«w kis life. The^ liad heco two4i^8ite«kiii$ liu% And md tJbrealeiMd to wt tJbe MkLefi^on firty if Iw was boI dettvered U be pvl tm deftlh. Ne«86Mier had tbef wmaeti iheir fictfrn^ ibaJi e«C« ting his bod^ iv^pieMs^ ihtw fixad ibk beai, feet, aad baadt on tbe hem ftaifces af Ibe baMaslrade. We aaoenaed hj this meaMraUe statrtaae ta the imperial treiaaiy. IteeataiaB imrf lUtle wartfc netiee. The aid geneml wha baa 4be eareaf it » obliged 4o attaad ta per* son,- whea penaksioa far seeinf^ it bM beea abtaiaad* Ha wasireiyill dariaip oav visits aady beio|f plaeed iaaa arai* ehair -m oae of ll& reaatt^ sat graaMiB^ the whale ti«M vitbpain aad iatpatiMee. The variaas arllelas have beea enaaierated to Uie aaaagnsiaaa Iraaala ef < two Fffeaebaiea»* who eampiaiQ of beilig. bandedy as we ware. Habsla ^ eeteaioirf ware hj the saTareigas of Rama at their eoraaatioa, aad' other. . studded with gaois i aets^ aad appeared the treasary< AnMag a amaber af saeh dteawe was a. vest, ^welv« yards ia fengtb, - warn bv Catherine the seeaad* It waa sapponted kf tw«^ ehaiaberkias aft bpr eoroaatioa « The ea^aas .of Mnassin^ aad eihibkiag sfdeadid aMim ebaraetetiaed the Rassim iatimeaaf ttiekreailiestpatea- tatesb la the ai^Maats whieb aaribaeeedeaiafirem oar awa eoanlry atfwdedj» ao Imtg ago as d^ reifm of Philip ead Mai^, we liod^it; was die easloai at' Mees9W ta oMba tradesmen, and other iahabitaatii, elders af the eity, ia nebgarm^atSf aad laplaee.tli»a» ia theaatiehaayi^r af (he saveieiyi tiadays; of aedstaca y bat wJmr the aesettieay) eaded, these easily vestmeats ware agaia. replaced in tw. treasai^. Ia altltar wvittsn^by liei»y Iiaeeiafiaaderseayt deeorib^ag^his lolradneliaA with CheaaeHer to the tsar^Si E»ee, ia the ycpriMA, Ibia ewaaaittanae is par^^lar^ latioiied. ^They eatred saadry rdeais, feraishad ia With aaaieat giairepernaeages» alUalaais gannsata of aaacb^y eelaaia i gpddey tissaa, b|UrtAia» aad mlali ^aa our vestments and eopes have bene in Eaglaad, satabla with caps, jewels, aaa chalaea.. These were found ta be no..eajDiriliari, -hat aaeiaat MeaMmtes^ ia>etile»^s» aad * Torage (le Deux Fraii^ais, a work qf very considerable merk»prohiU<^ ted at the time we were in RaaiA. It ba» baea tte«MkNMiUr vsfiafiNit tua ia» §9 CLARKb'S TKIlVELS in RUBStA. ath^ their merchants of ereUte^ as the manner is, fumfsfiedr tbtts from the wardrobe and treasririe, waiting and wearing' this apparell for the titne, and so to restore it?' Two years lifter, captain Jenkin^on "was sent from Btigland to eondnct the Rossianamhassatfonrto Moscow. * As he and his eom- panions were i»reparlng to leave that efty, they received an invitation fo see the emperonr's treasury and wardrobe.' Having seen all his ** goodly gownes,*' two of whilsh are dtesertbed f^ as heavte ad a man eodld endly earrie, all set with- pearles over and over, and the borders garnished with sa- jMres and other good stones abnndantly," they^ were par- ti^nlarly enjoined tor procure snch, or better, in England,*' aAidtotd ^ that the emperoitr would gladly bestow his moneys upon snch thin^.^' • The crowns of eonqaered kingdoms are exhibited in the* trtosnry. W« saw those of Casan j of Siberia, of Astraean, and of the Crimea. The last, from its simpKcitv, and th&* efroumftanees connected wifh its history, exicited the most* iiitei«st» it waf totally destitate of ornament, aflfording a remarkable contrast to' the lavish store of riches seen on' all the obJe«(8 around it, and emblematical of the simplicity and vfrtne of the people f#om whom it had been plnnaered.f Ita form waft very uncient, atfd resenkhled that n^a^ly g^f^en^ by painters, to oar English Alfred: The part of the treasu- ry coiitalntog the most valaable objects is* that In wlileh the^' cfwwns of the Russiati soverel^s are*depdsited. It is said, that the rubies which adorned those of the empress Anne,' and of Petc¥ the 8ec<M«d,1iav« been changed, and-stones of" less vafae «itbstttttted'in theh* place4 ' Some thittgft were shown to us,' whieh Were bnee consi- deiNHl^of gnsikt valoe, bat aveitow curious ' only* from their" avfiauitr; saefh^foriastanee, as'a long ivory comb, with- wiiicli the trar^ciwlbed their flowing' beards^ CupinMrds, beto^ tlie gjiass^ases \vhi^h cover the ^alls, were filled withiaproAttion ofgMe^*, va»eff, platcft, caps of alFsorts, ba»inS)Mldatid«tlv«er'ciatt4lestick«, and ot&er artides of TUlite, the gift of ft^veigtr pHoeeafMid tribtotary* states. A* Mkiiid h«K of j^Med HiiHer ^mktt&nn^ upea H stcroM, the eode' • Hackluyjfe, vdi. i. p. 8ig. t Th9 wriiertof thie Voyage do Deux Fran^aito nentioD ft tery iKiieient erpjiTD of gpld, which may be that here noticed. ** Uoe autre couranse- d*or, plaa thnple que ttnttB les autrea, qui-panfiit fort aacieittc, fasi» doat an n'a pa« pu novw dire l*origioe." i Voyage de Deux Fran^us^ tonu HI, jfi, SQh. Aie^is, faj.lier cif Peter th^ mtw^ one.^f w Imi and wiimI prineeg that ev^r sat upoa Uu& B«68i«ur tbrone. Tbere. ai:^ also, some pie^s of moehamsm thai would now he little es- teemed asiy wherc^ I a toilettei tha fomitore <tf whieb is.ea* (irelj Qif amber I serpeotiae yesseis,, whieb are aupposed ta possess the property of disarmiiig pomn of its baneful efieets ; masquerade dresses worn by their sovereigns } & feir jsatural curiosities ; and, among these^ the boraof aJkiod ot wliale eaUed JSTarvhi^lf above etsht feet in Jlengtb. This whale is found Aear the mouths of thii rivers ivhieh fall iota the ley Sea, #r oa the shores of lakes in the sfmae Iatit«d«« The boras and tu^kstof aoimajs, in a fossil state, form ja eansiderable artiele of the interiour coiameroe of Russia* Perhapks the. ivory manufactured at Archangel may hava been dag up in the north of Russia. Professor Pallas in^ formed me^ su«h prodigious quantities of ekphants' teeth were diseovei^ed on an islaiid whieh lies to the north of tba SAmoiade Land^ thai .earavajis some annuaUy laden with them tp Petarsbm^h. The most remarkable eiranmstanoa is, that instead of being, uMnmmjyuBed, like elaphants' tasks fonnd in tb^ sooth of Surope, they may be wrought with aU the facility of the most pi^rfeet ivory ; but this omy happ^i9 wkea thoy are found in a la^pde where the soil is per* petqally frozen, Thev have then been preserve^) like tba iahes. and other artiieles of food brought annually to tba wintec markets of Petersburgh. Those dug in the southern parts of Siberia aca found eiUier soft and decayed, armiaar* alized by silicioas infiltratians, and metaline eompaunda* What a souree of womlrous cefleetiaii do. these diseavof* iealaj open i If froiit atone baa. press^vad them, they wera fraa^n in the nmment <^ their deposit ; and thas it appaarsg that an aninsai peculiar to the warmest regions of the es^thi mart, ai SAffie.distaut periodt bava.baaa habituated to a temperature which it could not now endure for an i«stant« In tae epistolary mammery which the late empress Cathe* rine bartered with Voltaire, these animal remains are broQgbt forward to gratify his infidelity |* and it is dilfieuU * '* Mait une ebose qui d^montre, je pensc, aue le raonde eft wi pea pJQs Tieox que nos noorrie^s ne nous le oisent* frest qu'on trouve iIaqs le 99rd de Ift m^vfau k piusieon toises teat terre, 4es oMemenf ^4iHjk»n^ <piiii«|ait |brt loM^-cemps n^liaViteBt p1n> ces eoiKr^et.** LeH* di Irlmp^ fottHced M, dp nktdre^ dam U$ 0evrvt^9 de VoU, torn. IsXTSL f. SOI. M iLA&Kfi's TRAVSl* IN RVSSIjH* to say ivktek appears most tAjekt in the eyes -of pes4«iky t Catherifie eoodeseendtni^ ta«patify the seeptieism of-ainaii she inwardly- despised ; or Uie areh^infidel hkoseHV in hb eraad climaeteriek, sometimes by iosinuatton^ aodofren by direet entreaty,* meanly eoartin^ an invilation to Petors- burs, whieh neither his drivelling^ gallaBtry^ nor fukonie adulatton^ eonld obtain. In a very ancient part of the palace, formerly inhabited by the patriarchs, and adjointu^ to their eliafnel, are kepi tlie dresses worn by them ; which are also exhibited in glass eases. They requested us particularly to aotiee the habits of Nieon and St. Nieholas ; the tiaras' sent to (he patriarehs from the emperoors of Constaastino^e ; the erneifixes born in their solemn processions; the patriarehal staves^ and relieks. Several of the last were inserted in canities rot within a wooden erueifix. Among other things whieh added to its prodigious sanctity and miratoloas powers, was } pointed out to us a part of one of the bones of Mary Mag^- ene. The dresses were very ancient, but fall as mas^ifi«oiit as those we had seen at the eeremony-of the resurreetiov ; gold and silver being the meanest ornaments lavished u^tm them. Many were entirely eovered with pearls, and other*- wise adorned with emeralds, rubies, diamonds, 'sapphires, and precious gems of Siberia, In smaller «a)Mnets we«aw onyx-stones wrought in eameo work, exhibiting imaj^eo of Jesus and of the yirgin,whieh were not less than three incites and a half in length, and two in breadth. They showed as^ moreover, vessels of massive silver, made to contain conse* erated oil, which is sent all over Russia from Moseow, for the service of the Greek ehu rehes. Sixteen of these vessels, of very considerable magnitude, each capable of containing from tbeee lo fonr gallons^ were presented by the empen»ur Paul. In the chapel adjoining the chambers in whieh ihem * *' J'aurai k la verity soixante et dix-sept aqsj et je n'ai pas la vigaeiir d'aii Turc ; maisje ne vbispas ce qui ponrrait ra'emp(ichcr dc veiiir dans le« beaux jours sawurT^toi'e du Nord et maudire le croissant. K6tre Ma- dame Geoffrin a hien fait le voyage de Varaovie 9 nooi^uoi D'eatrenreijdMfe^ je pas celui de Petersbourg au mois d'Avril." Xe«. de Volt, d rImpeiMt. Ibid. p. 49. To whieh the empress replied, that she admired hU courage f but koowiag the.delionte state of bis health, she eotddna* consent to eaepoge }dm to the dangers of so long a jouriiey" •* Moreover,** she added, " it n»ay happeo» it' things continue as thej aire, that the prosperity of mg af- fairs may demand my presence %7i the southern provinces of nm empire^ Ibid. p. 50, . ^ ^ r^ trewBilreS'are'klfpty is'a^iDneoti^ii'Af nmfiiisftripts in 6^*eek an^ SciavoBi^k^ andfiiere <»f the bones of Mary Magdalene. By maeh the greater mamibep of the nmanseriptd are in the ^lavoei^k -laiifl^i^ev The priest who hail the eare of fheni eonversed with ale in Latin, and affirmed, that amon^ the SelftToniek^ or, as he termed them, the Untheniek manii-* seriptS) there was a copy of the works of Yir^l, and one of LtFy« Ho was not^ however, able t« find either of them, ftsd I imputed the whole story la his i^eranee and vanity. I afterwards eon versed with areli^iflhop Ptato npon the same ^abjeeC; who assared me aothtng of any importanee existed among the manuseripts. The priest translated, or pretended (d transiaitei, some of their titles, from the 8ela- voniek language, into Latin. If the aeeonnt he gave nie tan be relied «n^ the coileetion eontains the Travels (if PiN grime to Jerosaiein in very remote' periods. In Rttiteiait ehavaeters, iUuminated, on aneient vellntfi papery is a eopy of the goapehi, in folio, most beaatifully wnUen^by Anne, the daughter of Miehaei Feodorovieh. We were alno^shown, as at PetendHtrgh, some eafving in wopd by Peler the great. It was a small box, and contained a letter, dated l#l)7, sent by him, front Sardam in Holland, loathe patriarohs at Maseow. The priest permitted me to make nfac HmUe ofhii hand wHting | for whieh purpose I oopied, wi^ IT^nt ^are^ the signature to his ktter. It wa»silBply his Christian name; and written in this manner: Jtci cts^ Hairing obtained the keys fro«i the seeretary's office, w^ were admittied to gee the famous model of the Kremlin^ aecordiagf to the plan for its ereetion under the auspieies of the late empress. It is one of the most eurious thiric^s in Moscow. If the work had been eompleted, it would have been the woo^.yr of the world. The arehheet who eon- strueted the plan was a Russian ; and had studied in Paris. "^ The model cost fifty thonsand roubles. The expense neces- sary for the aeeomplisbment of the undertaking, as the arehiteet Camporesi^ who made the estimate, assured me, . * According to the Voyage de Deux Fran9!iis, the model vfts oooatructed % a German joiner of the name^of Andrew Wetraan, after a dedgnbj the ireluteet Baj«iiof, ^n^l of Vfttl'y; Bee twn, iS. p. 997. 84 ALARKe's TAAVBL8 IN RUSSIA. wovM tiftVe been fifty mtltioiis of roubles. TIm eaknkrti^tt laid before the empress stated tbe anMHMit only at tiveiity millions. The work was bemn ^ but, it is saidy the fatiiag in of a part of the foundation determined tbe^emjpress amiitst its proseeotion. From the state of the roof of tiie bn&ia^, in which this model is kept, it may be eneeted that every trace of so ma^ificent an HndertaJLin^ will soon be aniiihi'^ lated. Symptoms of decay already appear ; and the archie teet told OS it might soon be expeeted to f^L When he deHrered his report of the dangerous condition of the edifice, the Russians shrngjs;ed their shonMi^fs, aad said : ^ W\M in I And what if it does ?^ The plan was^ to unite the whole Kremlin, havings a elr^ enmferenee of two miles, into one magnificent palace. It« triangular form, and the number of eh^rehes it contains^ offered some diffieulttes ; but the model was rendered com- plete. Its fronts are ornamented with ranges of beautiful pillars, according to^differentonlerB of arohiteeture. Brery part of it was finished in the most beantifat maimer, eveii to the fVeseo painting on the ceilings of the ivoms, luid the colouring of the rarioM maHile coTumiM intended to iUmnh rate the interioor. It encloses a theatre, and magnificent apartments. Hail the work been contpieted, no edifice eonU erer have been compared with it. It wouM have Mrpasseit the temple of Solomon, the propykenm of Amaois, theTHIa of Adrian, or the fbrum of Trajan. Cam^oresi is^Nike of it in terms of equal praise ; but at the same time he confessed to me, that Guarenghi, his countryman, at Petersburgh, an architect well known for his works in that city, entertained different sentiments. Guarenghi allcrwed it to be grand^ as it must necessarily be, from its stopenduons nature ; but thought it too much ornamented) and too heavy in many of its parts. The architecture exhibited in dilferent parti of ^^le Kremlin, in its palaces and churches, is like nothing seen In Europe. It is difficult to say from what ceaatry Ulias been principally derired. The architects were geveratly Italians ; but the style is Tartarian, Indian, Chinese, and Gothic. Here a pagoda, there an arcade ! In some parts richness, and even elegance ; in others, barbarity and deeajr. Taken altogetlief, it is a Jumble of magnifieeiice amd mrn. Old buildings repaired, and modem structures not eomple- ted. Half open vaults^ and mouldering wmlls, and empty eares^ amidst whitawashed brick buildings, and towers aM '■ f-M^he9^ wTfli j^Ktterin^, ^ilded^ av painted domei^. In 'fbe midst 'of it,. some deydtee& are seen enterine^a little^ iftieaw strn alii re, more like a. staMe than a church. This, '4liey tell yftja, is ilie first of Christian worship erected in Moi^eo w. it wa« ori^iftalic. constructed of the trunks of "trees, fellfed*npott the sp^,' at the foundation ©fthecUy; but YH>witi9 of bricks huiit in imitation of the origiua], 'i^ooden^chnrch. . Its elaiai to antiquity cannot i)e great, as, ''ttceo^dih<^ tb accounts publi^hedin our own country,* the ' whule -iStf of. Moscow: was. burned by the Tartars of the uOimea^ «» tfo^-^th of May, td?!^ at which time tl^ old, wooden church was probably destroyed. .\\fe entered during •tiserirfeerileiibrniedja this building, .A priest, with true 'BtenlDnanrUiD^f WAS reading 4 j^elec^i^n fr«oi the gospels •4o<to»pei>ple; There is nothing within^tliei structure worth ^'.1*Tlietrlfew-of Moscow^ ffom.lt^e t/ecrace in, ^he. Kremlin, ^nealt tlcelspKtn4lel»':t^)^ artillery is pre$erAe(i» would affptd H^jfinff ^ml^eit iEoD a^aDr)vania« The number vof magnificent siliikliiigs^'t^e ilOnft^, the; towers,. aud spires, ivliich fill ^1 « thf0»pr6^^etyi»akeit^i per hapSj,. the most aqvd an4 inter- i nrtnisp^^g iaifjuro^ AH the .wretched h9yel39.aud mi£»- ^-erahir wooden buildings,, which appear in passing through i Ifacr^noete^jiil e^iasi in the , vapt assembla^ of magnificent «0dHi«^ fciwnattg whkh the foundling hospital is particularly ''(iSanspteaous^ Jielow t)ie waUs of (h^ Kremlin, the Moscva^ <*already bNeeome a rivec of. importance, . is seen flowing ••towards the Vplgai^. The new promenade forming on its I baak^yimmediu/tify beneath the fortress, is a superb work, -aod'pramises tQ rival. tbe famous quay at Petersburgh. It ^ ifij>aved with large flagSf. and is coiUmued from the stone ; bridge, .to a^otht^r, *4>^uliarly called the Moscva bridge fenced with a light but strong iron palisade, and stone pii- • lai^, ejueouted in r^ry.good taste* .A.fligbt of stairs leads .'from this walk io the.river, where the ceremony of the . benedietioQ of the water takes place at an earlier season of •'the year. .Anpther flight of wooden steps leads through the walls of the Kremiin to an area within the fortress. One day,: ascending by this staircase, we found all tfie 'ehnrel^s in the Kremlin open, and a prodigious concourse ^of-peopl&vfts^mbled at the celebration of the great festival •of the ns^ension. It is difficult to dq^cribe the scenes thes '* .Letter of Richard Uscombe lb Henry tahe. Hackluyt; t^. i. p. 403 S6 CLARRE^S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. exhibited williin these buildings. I Mas carried in hy the crowd, which rushed forward like a torrent; and^ being IiH;- ed by it from the ground, beheld, as I entered, a throng of devotees, in which there was danger of being pressed to death ; all of whom were in motion, crossing themselves, bowing their heads, and stru^ling who should first kiss the consecrated pictures. The bodies of their saints were exposed : and we were shown, by the attending priests, some of the wood of" the true cross^ Women, with tears stream- ing from their eyes, were seen lifting their infants, and teaching them to embrace the feet and hands of the images. Observing a crowd, particularly eager to kiss the scull of an incorruptible saint, I asked a priest, in Latin, whose body the septalchre contained. " Whence are you," said he^ ^^ that you know not the tomb of St. Demetrius P" CHAPTER VllL MOSCOW. Order of the Maltese Cross — Jnnerals of Count Golovkin--^ Antiquities— Pictures — Sliells — Gallery of Galitxin—TA' . hrary of Botterline — Botanick Garden — Philosophical Apparatus — Other Collections — Stupendous Objects of . tPhitural History — Enjs^lish Horse Dealers — Publick Baths ; their Mode of Use^ and JSTational Importance — ^ Foundling Hospital. SINCE the emperour Paul was ^ade grand master of Malta, the order of the cross became one of the most fashionable in Russia. It was not possible to mix in company, without seeing many persons adorned with the badge of the knights. The prince of it, when purchased of the crown, was three hundred peasants.* In the changes to which or- * As we were informed Mr. Heber states it at twelve hundred rpubles, " Atpreseot, indeed, there is a new method of acquiring rank. Persona who have not served either in a civil or military capacity, may, for.twelve hundred toubles, purchase a cix)ss of Malta ; hut this is considered as u* very proud (distinction." ffeber*s MS. Jounidl •" MOSCOW. 87 jers, as well as governments, have been exposed, that which has happened to this class of society is worthy of admira- tion. Formerly, the oath taken, upon admission to the fra^ ternity, enioined and professed poverty, chastity, and obedi- ence. What the nature of the oath now is, I did not learn, but the opposite qaaiifications in candidates for the holy cross were manifest ; riches, profligacy, and sedition. The last of these lurked inwardly in the heart; the two first were ostentatiously displayed. The extra vacaace of the Russian nobility has no example. They talk of twenty and thirty thousand roubles, as other nations do of their meanest coin; but those sums are rarely paid in cash. The disbursement is made in furniture, horses, carriages, watches, snuffboxes, rings, and wearing apparel. Visiting the mineralogical cifLbinet of count Golovkin with a dealer in minerals, he informed me that the arts and sci- ences obtained true patronage only in Moscow. << In Eng- land," said he, <' it does not answer to offer fine specimens of natural history for sale f we get more money, even for the minerals of Siberia, in Moscow than in iJondon." I fonnd a very practical illustration of his remark in the con- tents of one small drawer, which was opened for me, con- sisting of only forty three specimens, and which had cost the count two thousand pounds sterling. The substances were certainly rare, but by no means adequate to such an enor- mous price. Some of them had been purchased in London, at the sale of Monsieur Colonne^s cabinet. A fine mineral, as well as a fine picture, will often make the tour of Eu- rope ; and may be seen in London, Paris, and Petersburgh, in the course of the same year. Among the rarest of count Golovkin^s minerals, were, a specimen of the black silver ore, crystallized in cubes, for which alone he paid fifteen hundred roubles ; auriferous na- tive silver ; the largest specimen which I believe to exist of the red Siberian tourmaline;* galena, almost malleable, a substance described by Le Sage ; beautiful specimen of native gold from Peru; muriat of silver; crystals of tin oxide, as lar^e as walnuts ; a singular crystallization of carbonated lime, having assumed the shape of a heart, and therefore called heart spars enormous octahedral crystals, • Perhaps it is the same now exhibited in the gardens of natural history at Paris. Since this was written, I have seen a specimen much larger, in Mr. Gre vine's splenid collection. It was a present from the king of Avano 10 eaptain Symes, and is as big as a man's head. 6^ CLARKX^S TILAVSl.$. IN RUSSIA. exhibiting Itbe primitive form of flour ; the Siberian erne* raid, traversing prisms of rock crystal ; Peruvian emerald in its matrix 5 Chrysoprase 5 Pallas's native iron 5 beauti-' ful crystals of chromat and of phosphat of lead ; native anr timony ; a specimen of rock crystal, so filled by water, that, >vhen turned in the hand, drops were seen moving in all di- rections; the stone called Venus^s hairs^ or titanium in rock crystal; and that beautiful mineral the ruby silver, iii fine distinct prisms, lying upon calcareous spar. The colieetion of this nobleman contained other objects of curiosity besides cabinets of natural history. It was rich in valuable pictures; in many of the most interesting re-, licks of antiquity, particularly of Grecian vases; and it contained a library of books of the highest value. Count Qolovkin is one of the very few amon^Uu&sian connoisseursi who peally possesses taste. There is proof of this in ever}? selection he makes, whether it be of books, antiquities, pie- , tures, minerals, or works of modern art; for whatever he Lad selected, was, in its kind, weU chosen. The capriee may be lamented, which induces him to efaange^ so fre- auently what he has once collected, or even su&r it to b^ oestroyed, instead of allowiuff the acquisition to remain, a. monument of his genius, for the u«e and instruction of pos- terity. Otherwise, his museum might convince the world, that, ill a secluded city, remote from the usual inalks of ci-^ vilized society, there was at least one amon^ the nobility of Russia, who, to a love of literature, joined the talents necessary for its gratification, and the patronage which so much conduces to its advancement. Amone the pictures I noticed a very celebrated work of Van der Werf, which I had formerly purchased from Mon- sieur de Calonue's collection in London, for an English no- bleman. It was that highly -finished piece which repre- sents the daughters of Lot giving wine to their father^ Other travellers may, perhaps, at this time find the same; picture in Madrid. That unrivalled painting of Gerhard J3ouw, in whieh he has represented himself as an artist <lrawingby candle«light,was also in this collection: it cost the count two thousand four hundred roubles. The rest were the productions of Leonardo da Vinci, Saisn Ferrato^ Lanfranc, Teniers, Vandyke, and other eminent masters. In the cabinet of antiquities was an ancient lyre of bronze, complete in all its parts, and perhaps the only one ever found. It was modelled by Camporesi in wood. A ▼ase ot lapis lazuli was sIio\^ti as having been fonnd in Hercalaneum, which is very doubtfal. It is common, in collections of this nature, to attribute the antiquities of other cities of Magna Greecia, and even moderii alabaster vases, to Herculanenm ; although every thing found in the excavations there carried on, is rigidly reserved for the mu- seom of his Sicilian majesty, Greek vases, from sepal- ehres in Ifalv, are very often called Herenlaneum; yet I believe no such work of antiquity has ever been fonnd there. With those vases, have sometimes, but very rarely, been discovered the glass vessels of the ancients. It is still more rare to find Grecian glass vases of any considerable size. In count Golovkin's collection Mere some of a spherical 'fojrm, at least twelve inches in diameter; and one of them, standing near a window, filled with earth, in which had been planted a Dutch tulip, and liable to be broken every iast'ant.Xike dther possessors of antiquities, which are equaft ly interesting to the historian and the artist, he had aoan* dbned one acquisition in pursuit of another. Vases, on- which were represented subjects illustrating the earliest ' ages of Grecian history, were seen lying on the floor, like nerfected toys of children. No person exceeded the libe-i- ri^ty of eount Golovkin, in making any addition to his col- leetion: no one became sooner wearied by possession. Thev were thus rather objects of caprice than of science,, and liave probably, by this time, found their way to other ctties of Europe.* Enormous sums have been lavished to procure the black porcelain of Japan; but when we arriv- ed, tbuse vases were also filleif ^ith^earth and flowers^ Se- veral.fine busts from the celebrated cabinet of Caylus,. adortied the apartments : also a marble vase i^hich belong- etf'to the famous Mengs, and had been brought from Rome to Moscow, by the grand chamberlain Suvalof. I do not pretend to the smallest knowledge of concology : it might therefore, astonish me, more than some of my readers, ta see a single shell, calletl the Great Hammeri of no external beauty, but shaped like the instrument of that name, foB which the late Mr. Porster of London, received of the count one thousand roubles. «* He furnishes his closet first, and fills The crowded shelves with rarities of shells : Adds orient pearls which from theconchs he drewj And all the sparkling stones of various hue." . - , ^DjlTDEir. ' I 2 9{> gLAKKX's TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. After a particular description of count Golovkin's col- lection, it will be unnecessary to mention a thousand others which exist in Moscow. I shall, therefore, pass hastily over the principal. The gallery of pictures of the grand chamberlain Galitzin is the most extensive. The palace itself is magnificent; and a* set of stately apartments, ter- minated by a vast gallery, is entirely filled with paintings. In so great a collection, there are doubtlessmany indifferent productions ; but there are some of unequalled merit, and^ among these, one of the finest works of Salvator Rosa. The subject is St, Sebastian; and it has been executed with all his sublimity and energy. The gallery consists chiefly of pictures by tne Flemish masters. The library, botanick garden, and museum of count Botr terline, is one of the finest sights in Europe. That noble- man not only collected the rarest copies of the classicks ; but of some authors, particularly Yirgil he had so many editions, that they formed of themselves a library. His 'books are not kept in one particular apartment, but occupy a iftumber of different rooms. They are all bound beneath iiid -own roof and afford sufficient employment for several work- men, retained constantly in the house for that purpose. He 'has almost all the editiones principes^ and his eolleetion of Hvurks printed during the fifteenth century amounts to near six thousand volumes. According to Orlandi* (whose List «f Authors, printed between the years 1457 and 1500, 1 once revised) their number amounts to one thousand three hun- , dred and three. It is, therefore, probable, that nearly all '. jof tlrein are contained in count Botterliue's collection. Tlie catalogue of that part of his library fills two folio volumes^ ■He procured from Paris the celebrated work of Theodore de firy, a collection of vl)yages, with beautiful wood cuts} and has been at infinite pains to obtain from all countries a complete series of ecclesiastical annals, which already amounted to forty volumes in folio. This immense library is divided into six distinct classes* His pictures are not so Bumerous ; but they are well chosen. The botanick garden (botany being his favourite pursuit) contains a greenhouse, which certainly had. not its equal id • Origine e ProgresH della Scamfa, da Peregrin. Anttm. Orlandk BoDonas, 1722. I found his liand-writingt and the signatui^ of Lis name, in a curious edition of Suetonius, in the Mostf n Library, North Wales. See the account of it in Penn<mt*8 History of mUtefird and Jffolinoell, th« world. At one end of it was a ^kll library of botani- - ed works, ia whiefa h€ had the advantage of studying with the living specimens before him. But the most extraordi- nary circumstance was, that we found the plants of the frigid, zone, and of the warmest climates, nourishing in grater beauty than I had seen them possess in a state of nature. They were mfere perfect, because they were pre- served frontttll elf erimi injury, and were, at the same time, healthy. I acsked hiHi how such a variety of plants, requiring « such difficult eulture^ Situation, and temperature, could be thus nourished beneath the same roof. He informed me, that) in his opinion; the principal defect in gardeners, arises from their manageitient in watering; that, for his part, he performed almost all the work with his own hands; and acknowledged, that although botanists were much struck by the appearance of his plants, he was entirely indebted, for all the knowledge he had acquired, to our countryman, Miller, whose works were always near him. In his garden, the plants of Siberia flourished in the open air. Among others, I noticed the spiraea crenata, and the rosa austriaca^ or poestum rose^ in full bloom on the twenty iifth of May. Almost all the fruit trees in Moscow had perished during the former winter. The count smiled, when we spoke of theixicility with which he might obtain the Siberian plants. " I receive them all," said he, " from England, Nobody here will be at the trouble to collect either seed or plants; and I am compelled to send to your country for things that grow wild in my own.'^ In addition to the extraordinary collection already noti- ced, belonging to this nobleman, we were shown another set of apartments by him, which were filled with all sorts of philosophical apparatus. These alone appeared sufficient to have employed the time and fortune of a single individual. They consisted of electrical machiuery^ telescopes, the \% hole furniture of a chymical laboratory, models, pieces, of mechanism, the most curious and expensive balances^ and almost every instrument of the useful arts. ** To tell their costly furniture i*ere loDg? - The summer's day would end before the song i To purchase but the tenth of all their store. Woald make the mighty Persian monarch poor. YetVhatlcan, IwUl." I Dbtden. The collection of minerab, shells, birds, animals, aud medals of ^ Paul Gregorovitz Demidof^ has been considered \.ji^^ 'v." Clarke's TRAVELS *i!r^tr«siA. v^ by travellers more worth seeing than jiny other iuMbscbw.* We did not obtain admission. Uis library contained five' thousand volumes,, chiefly on subjects of natural history. The minerals of prince iJnisof, and of prince Paul Galit- * zin, were of the highest beauty and magnificence. The " former of these princes gave five thousand roubles for a single specimen. But of all the surprising articles in nalu- ral history 1 saw in.Moscow, the most worthy of admiration were two specimens, the one of maiaj^hite, and the Other of Siberian emerald, in the audience chamber of prince Alex- '■^ ander Galitzin. They were placed alone, independent of !aiy cabinet, on two pedestals, opposite a canopy, beneath which the prince and princess sat on days of ceremony. His highness condescended to show them to me. They were far beyond all estimation; because the value of such thingah must depend entirely on the power and wealth wTiieh might enable a prince or a sovereign to obtain them. The first, or the mass of green, carbonated copper, commonly called malachite^ was not only the largest appearance of that sub- stance ever discovered, but also the most beautiful. It was ' found in the Siberian mines ; and was matchless, in every circumstance of form and colour, which might interest ar "^ naturalist, or fulfil the wishes of the lapidary. Its delicate surface, of the most beautiful, silky lustre, exhibited fha0 " mammillary undulation, and those conical nodes, which de-e^* cide the stalactite origin of the mineral. Its interiour, though exquisitely zoned, was entire and compact ; and for the mere purpose of cutting into plates, in the hands of* jewellers, would have been inestimable. The weight of thi? enormous mass must have been at least a ton. For this specimen, while 1 remained in the city, a dealer offered his highness, six thousand roubles, which were refused. The companion of this extraordinary product of the mineral kingdom, and of equal size, was not less wonderful. It was a mass of numberless Siberian emeralds, lying in their ' matrix, which they traversed in all directions, exhibiting the most beautiful crystallization that can be conceivedj and every possible diversity of size, shape, and colour. Prince Viazemskoi's collection of all the current coin of " the world, when he can be prevailed upon to show it, which was not often the case, is too remarkable to be passed over without notice. Prince Alexander Scherbatof lias also, a magnificeut cabinet of natural history. * Voyage de Deux Frapjtus, torn. Ui. p. 327. MOSCOW. 93 The number - of English horse dealerg, and English grooms, in Moscow, is very great. Thev are in high favour among the nobles. The governonr of Ae city was consid- ered particularly skilful in choosing horses. It was usual to hear the nobles recounting the predigree of their favour- ites, as if on an English race-course. " This, " say they, " was the son of Eclipse 5 dam by such a one ; grandam by another^ " and so on, through a list of names which their grooms have taught them, but which have no more real te- lerence to their cattle than to the moon. English saddles and bridles also sell at very advanced prices. Passing the streets of the citj, a number of naked men and women ar^ often seen lounging about before the publick baths, and talking together, without the smallest sense of shame, er of the indecency of the exhibition. In most parts of Russia, as in Lapland, except it be in capital towns, the males and females bathe together. It is well known, that a ' clergyman's daughter, with unsuspecting simplicity, did the "^ honours of the bath for Acerbi, at Kiemi, in the north of the ' giilph of Bothnia.* As soon as the inhabitants of these nor*- thern nations have endured the high temperature of their ' yupour baths.. which is 22 great, that E;;glishmen wonld not conceive it possible to exist an instant in them, tTiey stand naked, covered by profuse perspiration, coolins themselves in the open air. In summer they plunge into cold water, and in winter they roll about in snow, without sustaining injury, or ever catching cold. When the Russians leave a bath ^ of thb kind, tliey, moreover, drink copious draughts of* mead, as cold as it can be procured. These practices, vhieh would kill men of other nations, seemed to delight them, and to add strength to their constitution. Being troubled with rheumatick pain, brought on by a sudden change of weather which took place m Moscow, the thermometer falling, in one day, from 84*^ of Fahrenheit, nearly to the freezing point, I was persuaded to try a Rus- sian hath. Nothing can be more hlthy or disgusting than one of these places. They are ifsually hlled with vermin. I had been recommended to use what they termed the Geor- gian bath, situated in the Sloboda, or suburbs, a.hd which *^ they describe as the best in Moscow. It required morej courage to enter this place than many of my countrymen ' ^ oulci have exerted on so trivial an occasion. It was a small, Woden hut^ at one end of which there was a place, black ' . * See Acerbi's Trayeli. $1* «LARKE^S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. and fearful as the entrance to Tartarus. T^o figures, I'i'ith iong beards, and quite naked, eondueted me inj and show- ing me a plank covered by a single sltaet^ with a pillow, they told me to deposit my clothes there and to repose, if I '^ thought proper. On the sheet, however, a number of cock- roaches and crickets had usurped the only spot on which I might venture to sit down. As soon as I had taken off my clothes, they led me through a gloomy passage, into the place called the bath ; the ceremonies of which I shall be very particular in describing. On the left band were cisterns of water; and upon the edges of those cisterns appeared a row of polished brass vessels. On the right was a stove ; and, in the middle of the room, a step to a platform elevated above the floor. The hot, vapour being collected near the roof, the more a person ascends, the greater is the degree of heat to which he is exposed. A choice of temperature is, therefore, offered. On each side of the platform was a stove, in shape exactly resembling the tombTStones in our church yards. Their upper suiface was covered by reeds; and over (he bed of reeds was placed a sheet. I was directed to mount upon one of these stQT^Sf and 4o place myself at full length on the sheet ; having done which I found myself nearly elevated to the roof of the bath, and the heat of ascending vapour threv me immediately into a most profuse perspiration. The sen- sation was precisely the same which I experienced in the subterraneous cavern, called the Baths of Nero, on the coast of Baia, near Naples. I neglected to take my thermometer •with me on this occasion; but theordinary temperature of the Kussian bath is well known. Aecordine to Storch,* it varies from 104^ to ±22° of Fahrenheit; and sometimes, upon the upper stages near the roof, it is twenty degrees above fever heat-t Thus situated^ a man began to rub me all over with a woollen cloth, made into a bag, covering one of his hands, till the exteriour surface of the skin peeled off. As soon as he had finished the operation with the wooilen cloth, he bade me descend, and poured seversA vessels of warm water on my head, whence it fell all over my body. He then placed, me on the floor, and washed my hair with his hands, scratching * Tableau de VEmpire de JRussie, torn. I. p. 380. The degrees of temperature are estimated hj Storch acconting to the scale of E<^aumur. , f Equal to 132^ of Fahrenheit. my Bead in all parts witfi' Rs naili^; a grearrtixiir)^ to the iiiia»aM9 and for reasons^'it is ifot necessary id explain. -- After thi8,-^he again made me aseend the stiofe, whi^re once' more 'Strj&tehingp meatrlength, he prepared a copions lather of S0a)h witli.wlikh, and a \vooillen eloth, he ag^am rubbed my body ^Aivlicn I descended a se^<Md time, and was again goDged with vessels of water. I was next desired fo extend m^fsself on. 4he stove for the third time, and informed that tbecfreatest degree of heat would be given. To prepare for tbis, they eautioned me to lie on my face and keep my head down* : BIrcJi boughs were tfa«n brons^ht with their leaves 00^ asd dipped in soap and hot water, wit h which they began to sei^ub Bie afresh ; atthe same time, some hot water beine; cast upon red-hot eannon balls, and upon'lhe principal stove^«veh a vapour passed all over me, that U came like ' ^ sif earrent of fire apon my skin. If I ventured to raise my ■'^'' head ^n instant, it seemed as though I was breathing flaaies. It was impossible to endure this process for any length of tim&i therefore^ finding myself unable to cry out, I forced my way down from tho stove, and was conducted to the lower ^part of the^TOomv where I seated myself on the B0or,.and,jllie doors beins^^pened, soon recovered sufficient-V ly to walk-out of the bath. . Eminent physieians have'endeavoared to draw the aften- tioBtof the English government tothe importance of pub- lic baths, and of countenancing their use' by every aid of example and eneonragement^ While we wonder at thefr^. . • prevaieneeamosgidl^the eastern and northern nations, ma/ • we not lament tlmt they are so little used in our own' cotiu-* try? . We migiit^ perhaps, find reason to allow, that erysi-^ pelas, sttrfeit9i*heumatism, eolds, and a hundred other evils, particularly all sorts of eutaneoira and nervous disorders, might be aUeiriated^ if not prevented j' by a proper attention to bathing. The inhabitants of^eonntriesin which the bath, is constantly used, a^nxiously seek it, in full confidence of getting rid of all such complaints ; and they are rarely dis- appointed* I may add my testimony to the! r's, having, not on^ upon i the oeeieision which ^ave rise to these remarks y"" •• bat in eases of obistruet^d perspiration much more alarming,^ during my travels, experienced their good effect. I hardly know any act of benevolence moreessential to the comfort? of the community, than that of establishing, by publick be- nefaction, the use of baths for the poor, in allour cities and i)anufaetttring^wns. Thc)^ lives of idany might be saved by fheiiiy In England tliQy are considered only as* articles -^of luxury;' yet thronghout the vast empire of Russia, T through all rinland, Lapland, Sweden, and Norway/there 'is no cottigepo poor, no hut so destitute, hut it prtssensei its. vapour bath ; in which all its inhabitants, every Satur- 'ilay at iea^t, and every day in eases of sickness^ expericfnce comfort and salubrity. Lady Mary Wortley Montague; in spite of ali the prejudices which prevailed in England * a^inst inoculation, introduced it from Turkey. If another /person of equal influence would endeavour to establish throughout Great Britain the use of warm and vapour baths, the iuijoTivenienees of our climate would be done away. Perhaps at some future period they may beeorfie general ; > and statues may perpetuate the memory of the patriot, the /statesman, or the sovereign, to whom society will be ihdebt- ^- ed for their institution. When we are told*, that the illus- trious Bacon lamented in vain the disuse of baths among *• the Europeans, we have little reason to indulge in expectao tion. At the same time, an additional testimony to their .salutary effects affording longevity and vigorous health to a people otherwise liable to mortal diseases from a rigorous \ climate and an unwholesome diet, may contribute to their v«stabiishment. Among/ the ancients, baths were pobliek edifices, under the immediate inspection of the government. They were considered as institutions which owed their ori- gin to absolute necessity, as well as to decency and cleanli- 4iess.Under her emperours, Rome had near a thousand such buildings^ which, besides their utility,* were regarded as 'master-pieces of architectural skill and sumptuous decora- '(jon. In Russia, they have only vapour batns ; and these are, for the most part, in wretched wooden hoVels. If wood is wanting, they are formed of mud, or scooped in the banks of rivers and lakes : but in the palaces of the nobles, how- ,ever they may vary ih convenience or splendour of mate- * ridls, the plan of construction is always the same. This universal custom pf the bath may be mentioned as an example of the resemblance between Moscovites and \ more oriental people. But there are many others ; siiehy for instance, as the ceremony of howling and tearing the hair at the death of relatives ; the practice among the nobles of employing slaves to rub the soles of their feet, in order to induce sleep ; and the custom of maintaining buffoons, whose occupation it is to relate strange and extravagant tales for a similar purpose. ' « ;. I MOSCOW. 97 As a eonelofiion to this ehapter, a few words may be add- ed eoneernine the state of the Foandling Flospital ; as the iflstitatioa ei that name in Petersburgh exeites the interest and attention of all forei^perB; although it is but a branch of the more magnificent establishment of the same nature in the east angle of the EfiUai Qorod^ at Moscow. Both one aud the other have been sufficiently described by preceding autheiv.'*' Of the latter I skail, therefore, only add, that, in ihe spaee of twenty years, prior to the year 178 8, they had re«eived no less than thirty seren thousand six hilndred and seven inlknts* Of this number, one thousand and t^Dty had left the.asylum^ and there remained six thou- sand and eighty at that time*!- In ITQ^, the number of ehildren in the house amounted to two thousand ; and about three thousand belonging to the establishment wereatnurse ia the country. Every peajsant intrusted with the care of an infant, had a monthly allowance of a rouble and a half. ^Y^tj monthi9 #ueh of the ehildren as have been vaccinated are sent into the country where they remain until the age of five y^ars. Before the introduction of vaccination, the mortality was mueh greater among them than it is at pre- sent, althoogh they inoculated for the small pox 4 * Bioce the foundation of these two establishments, simitar institutiom have taken, plaee in other towns of BuMia ; tueh as TiUa, Kdluga, Jaroslaf, Casan, &c. ■fStorch's Tableau de Mu98ie,.tom, I. p. 331. Upon the great mortality vltieh this statement aUows, the author makes th^ following judicious re- marks : '* Si cette DOte,adopti§e d'apr^s an ^crivaia tr^sveridique sur d'autres points^est exacte, la perte qae eet ^tablissement a essuy^e par hi moitalit^ desen^os, eat sans^loute tr^seonskl^rabte : maiselle le paraltraitheaucotfp melhs, si ('on examinait le nombre de oeux qui soot morts au moment d'y itre regtis, aussi bien que de ceux quiy ont port6 le gerrae de leur destruc- tion. Pour determiner I'^tat exact de la mortality de cette raaison, il frandriut aaroir le nombre d'enfans pwrfaitement sains qui y aont entres , ear ceox que- Ton porte ^ Thdpital, aussit^t apr^s qu'ils ont ^t^ baptises : lie peuvent H^'e regard^s que comme des victimes dtvouees k la piort : i| y aurait done la plus grande injustice k attiHbuer leur peile k un etab- iissement rem^i d'humanitd, qui enrichit annueliement I'etat d'un ^osi* bi% toiyoiirs plus oonsid^rabibe de citoyens ssuns, actifs el ndustdeux." ^ If eber'a MS* JoaraaL CHAPTER IX. MOSCOW. Visit to the •Archbishop of Moseew-^is Conversation*^ Convent of ^icollna Perrert^ — Funeral of Frinte QalU- xin — Stalls for Fruit and Food — Sparrow Hill — Pnk- lick Morals — Banquets of the JSTbbks — Dealers in Virtu— Adventures and Swindlers-^Immense Wealth of ths M)- hies — Condition of the Feasants. A ^U^I^U^ contrast to tlie gpleiid«ur in which we had xIL hitherto beheld Plato, archbishop of Moscow, was offered, during a visit we made to him at the convent of Ni- coU na Perrefa, a seminary for young prie»ts near the, city. I had long wished for an opportunity of conversing with this remarkable man. He was preceptor to the emperaor Paul ; and is known to the world by his correspondence with monsieur Dutens. Upon our arrival at the convent, we were told he was then walking in a small garden, the care of which constituted his principal pleasure ; and the em* plojment characterized the simplicity and innocence of bis life. As we entered the garden, we found him seated oa a turf bank, beneath the windows of the refectory, attended by a bishop, an old man his vicar, the abb^ of the monaste]^fry a:Bd some others of the monks. I could searcelv believe my eyes, when they told me it was Plato ; for though I had pftcn seen him in his archiepiscop&l vestments, his rural dress had made sueh an alteration, that I did not know him. He was habited in a striped silk bedgown, with a night-eap likclhe silk nets which hang down the back, as cmnmonly sceif on the heads of Italian postilions ; and a pair of wool- len stockings, with feet of coarse linen, fastened on with twine in an uncouth manner. He was withoot 8hoea,buta pair of yeliow slippers lay at some distance. By his side» on the bank, was placed his broad-brimmed hat, sueh as is worn by the shepherdesses of the Alps ; and in tha hatband, to complete the resemblance, was stuck a bunch of withered flowers. His white beard, and that mildness and animation of countenance which distinguished him, gave to his featurea a most pleasing expression. He desin^ to knsw who we were; and being answered, Ei^lishmen; « What!" said he, '' ail Eiislish ? I wonder what yonr eoantrjmen eaa find snflGicientfy interesting in Russia, to bring jon so far from home $ and in sneh times as these P" But having made this observation in Freneh, he looked eantionslj around him, and began to ask the monks, severall j, whelher they understood Freneh. Finding them perfectly ignorant of ' tliat language, he bade me sit by him ; while the rest forming a eirele, he entertained us with a eonversation, in whieh there was science, wit, and freedom, sufficient to astonish any traveller, in snch a country, and at such a period. Memory has scarcely retained even that part of it which concerned the manors of his countrymen, « Well," said he, <^ you thought me, perhaps, a curiosity: &nd yoa« find me as naturally disposed for observation as yon could wish" (pointing to his woollen stockings and his strange dress) " an old man bending with years and in- firmities." I replied, that I had the honour to see him in his greatest splendour, on the night of the ceremony of the resurrection , in the cathedral of the Kremlin. << And what did yon tliiuk of that ieeremonyP" said he. I answered, that ^ I considered it as one of the most solemn I. had ever witnessed, not excepting even that of the bened*^*ion at Rome ;" — ^* and interesting ?" added his grace. <* Very mueh so," said I : at which he burst into a fit of laughter, holding his sides, and saying, ^ I had lost a night's rest to attend the ceremony of a religion I did not profess, and cal- led it interesting^^ We accompanied him round his garden, admiring the beauty of the situation, and the serenity of the climate. « But do youj" said he, " prefer our climate to yours ?" I told him, that I had found the Russian climate severe, but / the cold weather in winter not attended by so mueh humid- ity as in^England; that the atmosphere was clear and dry. ** Oh yes said he, '^ very dry indeed 1 and it has, in eonse- qnence, dried up all our fruit trees." Alterwafds, he inquired where we were going ? and being told to Kuban Tartary and to Constantinople; — ^^God preserve me ! " he exclaimed, ^^ what a journey ! but nothing IS difficttlt to Englishmen ; they traverse all the regions of the earth. My brother, " continued he," was a traveller, and educated in your country^ at Oxford ; but I have never been any where except at Petersburgh and at Moscow. I tkonld havo been delighted in travelung, if I had enjoyed Ihe^pportimtyi fetrboekvof travels aj« my f«Torite r«adiw. I have lately read," and the sii^lficaitsnile by vfidek tb vards were aoeempaaied eouU noi be misanderstead, << Uia Y<^age4>f laid ]m(eartoey*''-^HelaBghed9 however, at tba fm^i of bki braUier'» ediieatioo. ^ The Eaglisb^" said lie« *^ iaai^it bim to deelaira in tbek way : be used to preaeh Ills %ie flauriahiog aermom to as Rassiaa* ; Tery fine ser^ BMiasl but tbey were ail triUMlated from tbe EnglUli* Some of yoar divines write be&atilully ; but with incaaeeiv- able freedon. It was anee diaeussed in an English sermon^ Whether a peojile had power ta dethrane their king." M Your grace aiay say moiey" said If << we had anea ft prelate, who preaohing beiope kia sovereign, felt hioiself at liberty i% diseass his ooadoet to his faaa." ^« I wish, " said he, <' we had sueh a fellaw here !"— but^aware of the inters pretation which mi^lit be put upon his worda, and perhapa net dariag to end with thein, he added, after a pause, <^ wa weald send him, taeajoy the full liberty of preaelung ia the free air of Siberia." He was much aasuaed at a r^ly he once reeeived from an Eneliah elergymftn, of the faetory al Petersborgh^ when asked if he iatenSed to marry* <^ If i am fortunate enous^h to beeome a bishop, I shall marrj ^ some rich citizen's Jauehter^ and Hve at my ease.'"*^ He eomplained much of Dutens, far having published hia eorrespondeHoe, without his permission. He aaknowle«^;ad having therein endeavoured to prove that the pape was as- tichrikt; of which he was fatly eenvineed: but that ha mueh feared the resentment of the court of Roaie. We told him, we thought his fears might now subside, as that court was no longer formidable to any one. ^< O/' said he, ^ j%m do not know its inti iguea aud artifiees : it tS' like the an* eient Romans; patient in concealing malice; pnampt to execute it, when opportunity offers ; and always obtaioiiig its point in Uie end." He then spoke of Voltaire, and his eorrespondence with the late empress Catherine. *^ There was nothing," said he ^' of which she was so vain, as of that correspondence. I never saw her so gay, and in such lugh spirits, as when she had to tell me of having received a fetter from Voltaire." Hcjshowed os the apartments of the aaeieat patriarch who founded the convent and built the church, which he ea- deavoured to preserve in their pristine state. They eonsiat- • *- Tlie pi-icstt in tbe Greek chureb are allowed to marry j but Dot tAe fd of several small, raidted^ Gatliiek draadien, vvkieh now eontain the Hbrary. I took this oBportuni^ to Mk if any translation of the elassieks extstea in the Helavonian Ian- mage, amoni; the mmiaseripts dispersed in the diflferent libraries of the Russian monasteries. He answered me in the negatire ; and said thev had nothing worth notiee until the time i^ the patriareh Nieon. As he was well versed in Selavoniek, I questioned him eoneerning its affinity to the Russian. He asaared me the two langua^s were almost the same ; that the differenee was only a distinetlon of dia- leet ; and that neither of them had the smallest resera* hlanee to the language of Finlwid. In this eonvent, one hundred and ifty students are in* ^trueted in Greek, Latin, and rhetoriek. Alter a eertaia time, they are sent to eompiete their eduoation in other seminaries at Moseow. The ehureh is lofty and spaeious | the table for the saerameat, as in all other Russian and Greek ehurehes, is kept in the sanctuary, behind the altar, where women are not permitted to enter. The archbishop, who had visited our English church at Petersburgh, ob- ^rved that our lable was uncovered, except when the sa- crament was administered ; a degree of economy which he expressed himself unable to comprehend, or to reeoaeilfr with the piety and liberality of the Enalish nation. What would he have said, if he ha4 beheld the condition of the oommanion tables in some 9^ our country churches P In Russia, they are alwavs Covered with the richest cloth which can be procured, and generally with embroidered velvet. On the twenty-eighth of Ma^ we again saw him in great oplendour, at the burial of prince Galitzin, in Moscow. This ceremony was performed in a small church near the Mareschal bridge. The body was laid in a superb, crimson coffin, riehly embossed with silver, and placed beneath the dome of the church. On a throne, raised at the head of the coffin, stood the archbishop, who read the service. On each side were ranged the inferioor cler^, clothed, as usual, in the most costly robes, bearing in their hands wax tapers^ and burning incense. The ceremony began at ten in the morning. Having obtained admission to the church, we placed ourselves among the spectators, immediately behind his grace. The ehaunting had a solemn and sublime ef- fect. It seemed as if choristers were placed in the upper part of the dome^ which, perhaps^ was reajly the ease. iOS Clarke's rwLXvnss in avssia. The W«rds ottered wen wAy a eoostast rtfi«titioli ef ♦* iorrf ham mercy upon usP^ or, in Ro9st«i^* ^ Clkespodi pamiiMiP^ When the arehhisfaop tttraed to give kit heoe^ dieii^fi to ftH the people, be observed m, ttioA asdded. In Laitifi) ^ Pi{« vohUcumP^ to the »to«tftbfiiest of the Uas- RiaB« $ who, not eompreheBdiiif^ the new word« tntrodueed into the serrice, muitered ftmong themelves. Ineeiue Wfts then ofifered to the pie to res aod to the people ; nad, that eeremoRj ended, the arehhtghop read aloud a dedacation, purportinj^ that the deeeased died in the tine Ikith ; that he bed repented of hit erronrt, umI that his tint were ab^ solved. Then turning to «s, as the paper was planed in ihe eoffin^ he said again in Latin ; ^' This i» what all yoa foreisners eall the passport $ and you relate, in books of traYels, that we believe no seal ean go to heaven withont it. Now I with you to nnderttand what it reaUy it ; and to explain to your eountryraen,^ upon my authority, ^at it is nothing more than a deelaration, or certifieate, emeera" ineth# death of the deceased.'' Then laughing, he added, <- 1 suppose yea eommit all this to paper ; and ooe day I shall see anenjgraving of this ceremony, with an old areh- bishop giving a passport to Bt. Peter.''t * Those Russian words are written, in books of good aathority; " GhoS" ppdi pomilui /*' See L<A.'d Whitworth b Accontit of Russia, p. 43. Also, (jw. His. vd. d$> p. Id4. But tbey seem generalhr proBowieed Jl4tep9di^ ,p9mila ! f TIier« is a panage in Mr. HetieiP^ Jminia], ^eiej ehamcteiiitidc of this axtraordinaiy man. Mr. Heber, vtth bis friend Mr. Tboraton^ paid him a visit in the convent of Befania; and, in his description of the rao^ nastery, I find the following account of the ai'chhishop. " The space be- neath the lH)eks is oeocipied by a shhiU chapel, foroisbed uritb a stove for witiler devotion ; and oh the right bftRd i« a little, narrow cell, contatatng^ two coffins; one of which is empty, and destined for the present arch- bishop; the other contains the bones of the founder of the monasterjr, who is regisirded as a saint. The oak coffin was almost Uttopieoea by cMTerenC persons afflicted with the toQth»aehe ; ixss which a rub oq tius boiird is a speeiiick. Plato laughed as he told us this ; but said, << As they do Mde hon saur, I would not undeceive them/ This prelate has been lonj; very famou« In Russia, as a main of ability. His piety has been quevtionec: but from bis cowvereatioci w« drew a very favourable idea of him. SoHe of his lixpresslons would have rather singed the whiskers of a very ortho- dox man ; but the frankness and Openness of his mannerS) and the liberafi- ty of his sentiments, pleased us highly. His frankness oa subjeets of peii- ticks was remarkable. The clei^y throug^oat Ruona are, I beiiere^ jr^iimioal to their govenunent ; they are more connected with the peasants than most othei* classes of men, aiMl are strongly interested in thefr sv£- f-^rings and opprjessions ; to many, of which they themselves are likewise exposed. They manj very mucbi among the doagfatevs «ad sisters of thiQir owa order^ and form ahnest a east I tbiok Btuttaparte rather 90f%^ Tliefid of tbeeofluibeHi^ BOW removed, Ae WdyoftiM ^ince was expo««4 to view ; and all tho relatives, aorvanisy siaves, and other atleadaatt, began tkeir loud lamentationit as ffs tiie eiistofii awoag tlie Raflsiaoa ; and eaeh per^oa, walkiiiff rmiad ike oorpoe, nade pi&dtration before it, and ki^ed the lips of the deceased. The venerable isar e of am old slave preeented a most affectioe speetaele. lie threw ^iDBelfflsioB the pavement, with a degree of violenee whaeh might have eoot him hio life, and qaite stanned bj the blow,. remained a lew seeonds iaseasible; afterwards, his loud sobs were heard; and we saw him tearing off and seattertng his wlute hairs. He had, aeoordinr to the ens- torn of the eoaatry, received his liberty open the death of the priaoe $ bnt ehoosing rather toeonsiga himself for the reflsaiiider of his days to a eonvent, he retired for ever front the world, saying: ^' &tm» his dcttr, old master was dead, there was no one living who eared for him." A plate was handed i^out, containing boiled riee and rai- «i»s^ 41 eeremony I am naahle to explaki. The face of the deceased was ftsvered by linen, and the arefabishop poured eonseerated oil, and threw a white powder, prohahly lime, neverai times upon it, pronouneing some words in the Rns- sian lansnage ; which, snpposing us not to understand, he repeated aloud in Latin: '^Bust thou art f and unto duut thou art returned P^ The lid of the eoffin waa then repla- ced ; and, after a requiem, " sweet as from blest voices,'' a proeessMtt began from the church to a eonvent in the vi- cinity of the city, where the body was to be interred* There was nothing solemn in this part of the ceremony. It be- gan by the slaves of the deceased on foot, all of whom were in mourning. Next went the priests, bearing-tapers ; then eame the body on a common droski; the whtpof the driver h^i^ bound with eraf«; and afterwards a line of carriages, of i& nuserable deseription before observed* Bat, ins^ad lar amoag them. Plato seemed to eontemplate bis success as an ineTita- ble and not very alarming prospect. He refused to draw up a form of prayer for the success oToie Russian arms. • K,* said he, ^ -Aey «rc reftU ly penitent, Uttliem sliut tip their pisices of pvblie BmuieineDtfor a monlii, JHidl will thea celebrate publiek prayers.' His expressions of dislike ta the nohles and weatlh;^ classes were strong and singular; as also the man- ner in which he described the power of an eroperoar of Russia, the dan- gero which surround him, and Oie imfirebftbiiky of any rapid improve- snent * K i^oukl be much better,' said he, < had we a eonsiitution like that of England.' Yet I suspect he does not wish nerticularly veil Xi>Vsj "Sn our wv iritb Prsnoe.^ Uebev^a MSr JournaC i^ Clarke's travus im Russia. of that slow ffiovemetit usoally elmraetemUok of fli&er«l^ proeessions, the priests and the people ran as ^t as they eevld ; and the body was jolted along* in an uneoath man* Her. Far behind the last rambling vehiele were seen per* sons following^ out of \>reath, nnabie to<keep op with their eempaBions. Tne stalls of frnit and food in the streets of Moseow prove very benefieial to the health of the people ; espeeially to the-ehildren, who are ill fed at home. At these plaees, fbr a few copeeks, whieh they contrive to colleet, they set a wholesome dinner. I saw them served at the stalls witk plates of boiled rice, over whieh was ponred a little honey ; and for eaeh of these they paid about a penny £nglirii. in the spring they sell apples (whieh they have a remarka* hie method of preserving through the winter, though I could not gain information how this was eontrived) baked pears, satlad, salted cucumbers ^which are aatiseorbutick, and esteemed delicious by Russians of every rank) wild berries, boiled rice, quass, honey, and mead. As almost every eat- able reeeives a formal benediction from the priests before it is considered lit for use, no Russian will touch any artt* ele of food until the ceremony has taken place. A parti* enlar church near the Maresehal bridge is set apart for the benediction of apples; and this is not given until the first apple drops from the tree, which is brought in great form to the priests. It is evident that a praetiee more jodieions can hardly be adopted ; as the people are thus saved from many maladies. I have seen a whole French army debilitated through wairt of caution in this respect. A Mohammedan would sooner eat pork, than a- Russian unconseerated fruit. At Petersburgh, the benediction of water takes place upon the ice of the Neva. In Moscow they have a floating stage upon the river below the Kremlin, on whieh this eeremony is performed. Having observed a very rare, Siberian plant, or Hyoscya^ mus Physalaides ; or, rurpk-flowered Henhancy growing wild in. the garden of our friend and banker, Mr. Doughty, we thought the season sufficiently advanced to go, on the twenty -ninth of May, upon a botanical excursion to Sparrow Hill, an eminence near the city, much celebrated for the view it affords of Moscow and its environs. The sight is not so pleasing as the scene beheld from the Kremun $ it is too mueh of a bird's-eje prospect; and, though it com- prehends the whole extent of the city, with the. river and ia ihf 4jMftiiee te whi)eh thej appear reiiMved. Upon tUft biU«iie^tbe for Qier serer^if^ be^^ to buikl a pala««^ tlie fiNiniliittaiM (4^ wkUk, with vauU&iind eeU&rs •! brick**, wuric, a^oow IB ruins. From tbe emweBce. we DereeiFod the land ronadMoseaw to be low and swampy, Mioiwdin^ villi poofa of ota^naat water^ and of eourae onheaUhy* The ^mojte i« also dangeroiu^ from sudden trafi»UioiM* Tbe ra^idiity of vegetation was here very striking. The Bamtncukts fiearia^ or English FUewertj was already hk* sing its bloom. Many other later flofirers, by their forward ttale^ nve us Jiotise that it was iiae to hid adiea to ^ita and ^ the bw^ h^wts of^iiieB^'' if we wished to behold na-r (sre^fiiMore southern latitudes, beforo ahe became devested of her smiiii^ eomnteaanoe,* Tim maBBerin whieh the Russiaa peasants ^the theit k^aad feet, throughout the whole em^re? from its sim* ^leityaiidtlie materials used, indteates great antiquity. It p^vails jdl o?er Lapland, and the other northern terriioriee of Sweden and Norwa^y. Their shoes are made of the mat^ ted hark of ^rees ; thear legs beingeovered by bandages of #ofdl«i eloth, bonnd on with thongs of the same materiaiii as the sandals. These thongs, passing through the loose teiture ofthe^andai, and afterwards entwined about the leff, keep the whole i^paratu3 together. I haFe had oeeasion to mention the £Uhv establishment ealled an inii^ mad dignified bv the title of V Hotel de Con- skmHnopUy iu whieh we resided. The master of it had not leas than five hundred persons, ag jiervants, and in other eapaeities^ employed to assist him. It may serve to convey an idea of thfe morals of this eity, when the fact is stated, that in thu list were inehided a number of hired prostiw tales, eoBstantly kept by him, in open stews belonging to « the house, for the use of the numerous goests by whom it was inhabited. The reader msLj be spared what else might be related concerning the publicity of such apartments. A swarm of alaves, attendants, hirelings, and dependent syeophants, is peculiarly characteristic qI domestic econo-^ my in Moscow. The nobles consider tbe honour of their families so materially implicated in maintaining a numer* • The fonowing are tUe names of tbe other plants we observed tipon wid near this eminence. Orobu8 Tuheronts, Viola Camna, Oxalis »Mce- totelia (common Wood Sorrel)* Prwmw JPadus (Bird's Cherry), Lomee* raXylofteum (eommenFly liciieyiuGUe.), Gi^cAoma ifo«?S?rac«0(GrQmf(| i7). i06 tLARKE's TftAYEt^ III RXif^SIA. otts table, that should any of the satellites whieh QSliaUj surround them forsake his post at dinner, and sweU ttfe train of any other person, the offence is rarely forgiven : they will afterwards persecute the deserter by every means^ of revenge within their power ; and, not being burdened by scruples of eoneienee, they generally find means of indul- ging their vengeance. I have seen persons who were vic- tims of their own good-nature, in having accepted invita- tions which decoyed them from the table of their lord. Similar motives gave rise to the prodigious hospitality which has been described by travellers. Before the reign of Paul, a stran^r no sooner arrived in Moscow, than the most earnest solicitations were made for his regular atten- dance at the table of this or that nobleman. If his visits were indiscriminate, jealousy and quarrels were the inevi* table consequence. During the reign of Paul, Enplisli- men were guests which might involve the host in diflocnlty and danger ; yet, notwithstanding the risk incurred, it is but justice to acknowledge, the nobles felt themselves so gratified by the presence of a stranser, that, having re* quested his attenaanee, thev would close their portals npon* his equipage, lest it should be discerned by the .officers of police. The curious spectacle presented at their dinners has no parellel in the rest of Europe. The dishes and the wines correspond in gradation with the rank and condition of the guests. Those who sit near the master of the house a^e suffered to have no connexion with the fare or the tenant* of the lower end of the table ; and nothing would so maeh distress a Russian prince, as sending for a portion of the soup or the viands which are there placed. That which he intends for the gratification of the favoured few around him, is generally carried to them; nor is it usual to ask for any thing. The number of persons in waiting is pro- digious. In the house of the young count Orlof were no less than four hundred servants ; many of them sumptuous- ly clothed, and others, mingled with them, in rags. It was no uncommon sight to observe, behind a chair, a fellow in plumes and gold, like a Neopolitan runnins footman ; and another by his side, looking like a beggar from the streets. It is upon such occasions that strangers have an opporta«» nity of learning what becomes of the immense wealth of the Russian nobility. He will see it lavished among for« signers in their service, upon thsir tablss and equipage^} tkelr drtssesy toTS, trinkets, jewels, watches, snuffboxes, balls, masquerades, private theatres, dancers, sineers, trad- ing antiauaries, and travelling picture dealers. This last Mee is rreqnentlj filled bj hairdressers and Italian lack- ejs. There is no place in the world where adventurers reap sueh harvest as in Moscow. Frizzeurs from Italy or Germany, having bought up any rubbish they are able to procure, get some friend to eive them a letter and a name, with which they arrive in the city. The news is soon buz- zed abroad ; the new comer sought for ; and he must be indeed a fool if he does not make his journey answer. I saw a man of this description, a barber of Vienna, as a picture-dealer in Moscow, caressed by the nobles, and in- vited to all their tables, until his stock of pictures was gone, and then he was no more noticed. He complained with bitterness to me of the dishonourable chicanery of the nobility. Some of them had given him pinchbeck, instead of gold watches and snuff boxes ; and paste, instead of diamond rings ; in exchange for his pictures. In fact, they had mutually cheated each other ; the pictures being of less value than the worst commodities eiven for them. Of the two parties, however, the seller and the buyers, the barber had ultimately the losing part of the business. Flushed by his newly acquired wealth, he set np for an amateur him- self; bought minerals, and gave dinners; and ended by returning to Vienna without a sotis in his pocket, to practise his old trade of frizzing and shaving. Moscow is, of all places in Europe, the most advanta- geous rendezvous of adventurers and swindlers ; and, con- sequently, many are found there. The credulity, the extravagance, and the ignorance of Russian nobles, offer a tempting harvest to such men. The notorious 8emple, rose to such a pitch of celebrity in Russia, that he influenced, if iie did not govern, Potemkin. He introduced a uniform for the hussars, which is still worn ; and made alterations, truly judicious, in their military discipline. Thus the Russian officers derived from the hulks at Woolwich greater advan- tages than if they had served there in- person ; an honour, which, though well merited, it is not necessary to assi^ them, as they experience very wholesome chastisement at home. In the aptitude of sueh reflections, the reader, it is li6ped, will sympathize with the author. They are made from no disposition to sarcasm, but from a strict attentien 106 Clarke's TitirVKi.& iv Russia. to that fidelity of d&HneaitHm, whteh, wbiki it jpwslnBya 4c« fonaity^ represents tke trntk. The wealtk of the mbles is really enormous. We b&v« not, in England, Mvridoals possessin^^ equal property, iHiatever their rank or sttiMition may he* Bome of tbem have seventy and even a hundred thousand peasamts. Their fortunes are estimated by the number of their peasaauts, an West India merehants reekmt their ineome by the numher of their hogsheads. These peasants pay them, upon tha average, ten roubles annually, in speeie.* If the peasaat has been required by his lord to give him three days of la- hour during eaoh week, the ajmual tax is said t« be propor«- * Mr. Heber's Journal oontains so much interesting information coneer- BiBg the state of the peatants in Russia, that I shaU here subjoin a copiooa extract. While it accompaiiics raj own test, it may make atoaemeat, hf greater aoeuracy and more i«yourable stalenient, for any errour in my representation, whether statistical or moral. I am bound, consistently with the promise I made in tlie beginiiiiig of this work, to g^re mr narra- tive as near as possible to- the state in wuoh it was written upon the sp<it. We observed a striking diflfereoce between the peasants of the crowa and those of individuals. The former are almost all in comparatively easv circumstances. Their abroek, or rent, is fixed at five roubles a year, all charges included ; and as they are sure that it w3l never be raised, they are more iadastrioas. The peasants bekmgiog to the nobles have their aJfrock regulated by their means of getting money; at an average throng* out tlie empire, of eight or ten roubles. It then becomes not a rent for land, but a downrigtit tax on their industrv. Eaoh male peasant is obMg<wlf bylaw^tokbour threedayaia «Bd& week for his proprietor. The law takes effect on his arriving at the age of fifteen. If the proprietor chooses to employ him the other days, he may ; as, for example, in a manufacto- ry ; but be then finds him in food and elotbin|;. Mutual advantage, how* ever, generaBy relaxes this law ; and, excepting such as are selected for domestick servants, or, as above, M?e empl^ed in manufactures, the slave pays a certain adrockt or rent, to be allowed to work all the week on his own account. The master is bound to furnish him with a house and ter- tfdn portion) of land . The allotment of land is generally settled by the siaros^ [%\dev of the village] and a meeting of the xteasants tliemselves. In the .same manner, when a master wants an increase of I'ent, he sends to the starosta, who convenes the peasania ; and by that asseanbly it is de- cided what projportion eadi individual must pay. If a slave exemses any trade wfaioh brim- him in more money than agrioulturai labour, he pays a higher abroek. If by journeys to Petersbuj:|;fa, or other cities, he can stiU earn more, his master permits his absence, but his abroek is raised. The Smairest earnings are subject to this oppressien. The peasants emplo^Ned us drivers, at t\m pest^^Kmaas, pa]r an abroek out of the driiikmanev tfaqF receive, ^r being pe^rmitted to dnve ; as, otherwise the master might em* ploy them in less profitable labour on his own account. The aged and in- firm are provided with food and ndraent, and lodging, at tlieir owner's ex* pense. Such as prefer easoail eharky to the misemble pittance they re« eeiKe from their master, ave frequenUy furnished with passports, and all ^msfl ; ss when one is foondy he is immediately scat back to his owner, la MOSCOW. 109 tionably ^iminislied. But, in despite of all the pretended regulations made in favour of the peasant, the tax he is called upon to pay, or the labour he is compelled to bestow, depends wholly on the caprice or the wants of his tyrant* Labour is not exacted from males only. Women, ana ehil* dren from the agpe of ten and upwards, are obliged to per- ^oved to seek their fortune ; but they sometimes par an abrock eren for ,thi8 permission to beg. Th« number of beggars in retersboi-gh is very smau ; as when one is found, he is immediately sent back to his owner* In Moscow, and other towns, they are numerous ; though I think less so than in London. They beg wiU) great modesty, in a low and humble tone of voice, frequently orosslsg Ihemselves, and arc much less clamorous and importunate than a London beggar. *' The master has the power of correcting his slaves, by blows or con^ finement; but if he is gmlty of any great cruelty, he is amenable to the laws; which are, we are told, executed in this point with impartiality. lu t>ne of the towers of the Khitaigorod> at Moscow, there was a countess Sol- tikof, ccmfined for many years with a roost unrelenting severity, which she merited, for ci-uelty to her slaves. Instances of barbanty are, however, by no means rare. At Kostroma, the sister of Mr. Kotchctof, the goverirour, ^ve me an instance of a nobleman who liad nailed (if I understood her nght) hi^ servant to a cross. The master was sent to a raonasteiy, and the business hushed up. Domestick servants, and those employed in roanu- factories, as they are more exposed to cruelty, so they sometimes revenge themselves in a terrible manner. A Mr. Hetrof, brother to Mrs. Sche- pOtef^ who had a great distillery, disappeared suddenly, and was pretty ea- «ily guessed to have been thrown into a boiling copper by his slaves. We heard another inMaoce, though not from equ^ly good authority, of a lady, uow in Moscow, who had been poisoned three several tim«s by her servants. <' No slave can quit his village, or nis master's family, without a passport. Any person arriving in a town or vitlage, must produce his passport to the starosta ; and no one can harbour a Stranger witiiout one. If a person it found dead without a passport, his body is sent to the hospital for dissec- tion ; of which we saw an instance. The punishment of living runaways is imprisonment, and haixl labour in the government works ; and a master may send to the publick workhouse any peasant he chooses. The piisons oT Moscow and Kostroma were chiefly filled with such runaway slaves, who were tor the most{)art in irons. On the frontier they often escape ; but in the interiour it is almost impossible; yet, during the summer, desertions are very common ; and they sometunes lurk about for many months, Uvlng miserably in the woods. This particularly happens when thereisantw levy of soldiers. The soldiers are levied, one from evpry certain nurabet' of peasants, at the same time all over the empire. But if a master is dis- Incased with his slave, he may send him for a soldier at any time he pleas- es, and take a receipt from govcsument ; so that he sends one man leas the next levy. He also selects the recruits he sends to government ; with thisrestricfion, that they are young men, free fr«m disease, have sound teeth, and are five feet two inches high. ** The starosta, of whom mention has been so frequently made* is an officer resembling the ancient bailiff of an English village. He is chosen, » >^e are told, (at least generally) by the peasants ; sometimes annually, and sometimes for life. He is answ ei*able for the abtochs to the lord ; de- isides small disputes among the iwasants, gives Hllcts for quaitcrs to sol- diers, or to government officers on a journey, &c. SometijucB th§ propri- etor elauns the right of appointing the starosta. I4 IdO ^ (BlARKE'S TRAVErS IN RTSMA. form their equal share. Tithes are, moreorer, demand^ of whatever may remain in their hands $ of linen, poultry, ieggs, batter, pigs, sheep, lambs, and every product of the land, or of domestiek, manual labour. Should a peasant, by any misfortune, be deprived of the tribute expected by "A dave can, on no pretenee, he add oot of Russia, nor in Roaaia, to any but a person bom noble, or, if not noble, haTing the rank of lieutenant- colonel. This rank is not confined to the military ; it may be obtainetl by them in civil situations. Professor Pallas had the rank of brigadier. This la**^ is, however, eluded, as xoturiers [plebeians] fi'cquently purchase slaves for hire» and make use of the name of some privileged person ; and all nobles have the privilege of letting out their servants. ** Such is the political situation of the peasant. With regard to his comforts, or means of supporting existence, I do not think they are defi- cient. Their houses are in tolerable repair; moderately roomy, and weB adapted to the habits of the people. The;f-havQ the air of being sufficiently i edf and theii* clothing is wai'm and substantial. Fuel, food, and the materials for building, are very cheap ; but clothing is dear. In summer thj^ gcne- i-ally wear nantkin cq/>ans, one of which costs thirteen roubles. The labm kaa [linden-bark sandals] cost nothing. They weai- a blue, nantkin shirty trimmed with red, which costs two or three roubles; linen drawers; and "linen or hempen n^ wrapped round their feet and legs, over which the richer sort draw their boots. The sheep'Skin tckaub costs eight roubles, but it lasts a long time ; as does a lamb-skin cap, which costs three roubles. The common red cap costs about the same. For a common cloth caftan, aoch as the peasants sometimes wear, we were asked thirty roubles. To dothe a Russian peasant or a soldier is, I apprehend, three times as chargeable as in England. Their clothing, however, is strong;, and being made loose and wide, lasts longer. It is rare to see a Russian quite m rags. With regard to the icUeness of the lower classes here, of which we had heard g^at complaints, it appears, that where they have an interest in exertion tliey by no means want industry, and have just, the same wisU for luxuries as other people. Great proprietors, who neycr raise their cihrccksj such as count Sheremetof, have very rich and prosperous pea- £!ints. The diiference we noticed between peasants belonging to the 4T0wn and those of the nobility has been ali'eady mentioned. The crown peasants, indeed, it is reasonable to suppose, are more happy ; living at -^hcir ease, paying a moderate quit rent, and choosing tlieir own stai-osta. Tliey ai'c, houe\'er, more exposed to vexation and oppression from the petty officers of the crown. •• This account of the condition of the peasants in Russia is an abrigi of the diflfcrent statements we pi-ocured in Moscow, and chiefly fromi prince Theo<lorc Xikolaiovitz Galitzin. The Icries for the array are con- sidered, by the peasants, as times of great terrour. Baron Bode told me, they generally keep the levy as secret as possible, till they have fixed oq and secured a proper number of men. They are generally chained till they are sworn in : the fore port of the head is then shaved, and they are thus easily distinguished from other peasants. -After this, desertion is ve- ry rare, and very difficult. The distress of one of their popular dramas, which we saw acted at Yareslof, in the private theatre of the governour, prince Galitzin, consisted in a yoimg man being pressed for a soldier. In the short reign of Peter II, who, it is well known, transferred the seat of government again to IVIoscow, no man was pressed for a soldier; the army was recruited by rolutiteers ; and slaves were permitted to enter. Uebei^9 MS, Jmnwl. Mis lord, he mast beg, borrow, or steal, to make up the defi- cienej. Some of the nobles choose to eonverse with fo- reigners upon the condition of their slaves; and, when that is the ease, not the smallest relianee can be placed on the statement they afford. .It will be seen in a former chapter f]p. 60] that I mentioned the observations of one of their princes at his own table, concerning the superiority of Kussian to English liberty. The same person deemed it decorous, upon another occasion, before an immense assem- bly, to contrast the situation of English peasants with what he termed the happiness of the Russian slaves. <^ There is," said he, addressing himself to me, with an air of tri- amph, << more of the reality of slavery in England than in Russia." When I be^ed his highness to explain what he implied by the " reality ofslavery^^^ he expatiated upon the miseries resulting from press-gangs, and pictured the flou- rishing condition of his own peasants, wbom he described as having relief in sickness, refuge in calamity, and, in their ola i^e, a comfortable asylum. << Prince," said I, << is there one, among the happiest of yoar slaves, who^ vould not rejoice to exchange his Russian liberty for what you are pleased to term English s^at?ery.^"*— I had seen the peasants of this man, according to his own pathetick discourse, ^ in sickness, in calamity, and in old age," and it was well known to every person present, that their " re- lief and refuge" was in death, and their <« asylum" the grave. Another nobleman assured me that the greatest punish- ment he inflicted upon his slaves (for he professed to have banished all corporeal chastisement) was to give them their liberty, and then turn them from his door. Upon further inquiry, I discovered that the slaves of this very man fled from their fetters, even if there was a certainty of death before their eyes, rather than remain beneath his tyranny. Great indeed must be the degree of oppression which a Russian will not endure, who, from his cradle, crouches to his oppressor, and receives the rod without a murmur.— Other nations speak of their indolence ; which is remarka- blie, as no people are naturally more lively, or more dis- posed to employment. We may assign a cause for their inactivity : it is necessity. Can there exist excitement to labour, when it is certain that a tyrant will bereave indus- try of all its fruits ? The only property a Russian noble- inaa allows his peasant to pos«ess, is the food he cannot^ or li^ Clarke's travels in rui^ia. will not, eat himself; the bark of trees, chafT, wi othe» refuse; quass, water, and fish oil. If the slave has suffi- pient ingenuity to g^ain money without his knowledge, it becomes a dangerous possession ; and when onee discover-^ edy falls instantly into the hands of his lord. A peasant in the village of Celo Molody^ near Moscow, who had been fortunate enough to scrape together a little >veaUh, wished to marry hit daughter to a tradesman of th« £ity ; and for that purpose, that she should be free, he offer- ed fifteen thousand roubles for her liberty; a most unusual J)rice of freedom, and a much greater sum thf n persons of lis class, situated as be was, will be found to possess. The tyrs^t took the ransom ; and th^n told the father, that both the girl and the money belonged to him ; and t]^r«lbre she must sttill continue among the number of his slaves. What a picture do these facts afford of the state pf Russia ! Jtis^ thus we beliold the sut^eets of a vast empire, stripped of all they possess, and existing in the most abject servitude; vie* tims of tyrannv, ^nd torture; of sorrow, and poverty; ot sickness, and famine. Traversing the provinces south of Moscow, the land i| as the garden of Eden ; a fine soil, covered with corn, anal apparently smiling in plenty. £nter the cottiige of the ]>oor, labourer, surroui|ued by all these riches, and you find him. ^ying of hunger, or {tining from bad food, ptod in want of the common necessaries oflife. Extensive pa$t«r^, coverr* ed with cattle afford no milk to him. In autumn, the har- ve«t yields no bread for his children. The lord eiaims all tlie produce. At the end of summer, every road in the southern provinces is filled with caravans, bearing corn and: all sorts of provisions, every produce of labour and the iaml^ to supply tne lords of Moscow and Petersbui^h, and tlie markets of these two capitals, which, like whirlpools, swaI-> low all (hat comes withm their vortex, with never^ndiag^ voracity. Can there be a more affecting sight, than a Russian fami-- ]y, having got in an abundant harvest, in want of the com- mon stores to supply and support them, through the rigours . of their long and inclement winter ? lict us hasten from it« contemplation ! CHAPTER X, JOUBNET FROM MOSCOW TO WORONETZ. tenee and Extortion — River OkO'^Celo Zavody^-JIni' cient Ofimed — Vast Oriental plain — State of Travelling -^Tuia—its Mmufaetures — Imperial Fkbrick of Arms ^^Present State of TaU^'^Beonomy of Fud — Iron Mines '^Raad from Tula to Woronetx — DedUof — Change ef Climate — Bo^ioroditx — Celo JWcitxkoy — Bdshoy PUOy—Bgi'enu^^^JfikoMjevka—Celo Petrofshia JM- nia — Eletx-^Exvoly^^Zadonetx^-^^Celo Chlebnoy-^^Bes^ tuxetkO'—Ceio Staroy IvoHmkoy^^Wonmetx* IT is nowneeessary to take leave of Mofeow, where we passed seme pleasant hears, and many others of pain^^^ fol anxiety, insolt and oppression, IVom the ereatures, spiet, and aeents of the eontem^tible tyrant then npoa the Has- sian throne. Onr eondition, as well as every Englishman't In the empire, was that of prisoners on thdr parole. We had been allowed to move about; bat always under the vi- gilant eye of a trottblesome and eaprieious poliee. We were detained a long time before we eonhi learn when we mi^t go, or by whait rente we should be allowed to pass. An escape by the Livonian frontier was utterly impraeti« cable. At last, without any passport for leaving the eoantry, but eneooraged by the advice and exertions of onr good ambassadour, who secretly eonveyed to us letters Arom the govemour of Petersbu^h to the go- vemonr ef Moscow, and to general Miehelson, eom- mander in chief in the Crimea, we determined to set «at for that peniasula by a eircnitooe route, throu^ the ceoDtry of the Don Cossacks ; and, if pessible, to visit the more distant regions ef Kuban Tartary and Cireassia. Uavins, by means of these letters, purchased the long-* wisheo-for poderosnoi^ and placed our carriage again upon its wheels, we left the city on the evening of tne Airty-nrst of May, visiting our banker at his eoantry seat near M^s- 1$^ 114 CLARRfi's TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. eow, and proeeedins; that ntght only tweiity«seveii versttf to a place ealled MoUdtzj, the first station. The sext day, Jane ist, we arrived at Celo Molody.* Its iahabi- tants were onee in good eireumstanees ; bat thej are now completely rained by their present master. The tyrant has a fine hoase near the ehurefa, on the left hand side qnit- tiRi^ the village. He is the person I before mentioned, who refused a poor girl liberty, after aoeepting h«r ransom, when she wished to marry in Moscow. Between Molodt- 2^ and Celo Mplody we passed through Podols^ prettHiy situated betw^n two hills, on the river Moekra. The late empress inferred on this place the name and distinction af a tifwn ; but Paul, in his determination to do every thing she would not have done, and to tfndo all she did, made it again a village. From Celo Molody our jonmey was performed with very great expedition, ami over good roads, to Grisehiuka, and to Sarpuehof, which last j^ace perfectly resembles New^ Market, in situation, appearance and surrounding scenery ; and that nothing might be wanting to awaken the recollec- tion of our beloved country, the Jlyosotis 8cornwide9 [Mouse-ear Bcorpion Grass] with other British herns, ap^ peared among the plants then in flower. Exactly in the spot which, with reference to the town, corresponds with the course at Newmarket, before descending into Bcrpuchof, is a church yard ; where, among the graves and tombs, w« * The want of any settled rule of orthography for Russian words in our language, embarrasses the reader in viewinffmapsofthe coantiy, as well as io perusing its history or books of tra%'els. Velo, is said to aigmi^y a cfanreb^ ^ and, being added to the name of a plaee, implies that it is a vUlage with a ' ehurch. 1 will not vouch for the truth of this observation. It is pronounceti Selo, and on that account I had written it Tsarshoseh in the second chap- ter. The empress Catherine, in her Letters to VoltMre {^iEuvrea con- pietea de^Voltaire, torn. Ixvv. p. 303, &e.3 wrote thia last word Czar^hoz^^ """ ian words, on the authority of I czar, and says that it ought to eur Boaverain le titre de f tar, et ils I'ecrivent parle oaracti^re qu'ils appelfent tai, «t flui repcnd a noire U. Les etraugers out tort d'ecrire czar*- Taffleau de r Eppire t^ Rus^, par Henri S torch, torn I. p. 19. One peculiarity in the Russian language !» very worthy of remartc. They have no Win their alphabet. The doab&e F, Qlt^ obserted in their oom- pound words, is not the same thing. Thus^ for example, the word intn^ tluction is written VVi(Um^ ; consisting of the preposition Ftfor V, which signifies in^o, and V^d^ni^y to conduct. Whenever the V so doubled ofr- L-urs in the middle of a wood, a single V may be tubstitnted in its plaee ; hii# if, at the end of a word| an i\ frpm t^e promiBsUtiOB then ^f eo^ is p«¥' hstps n^re proper* 7o ; but Storchf in his orthography of I^ussian words, on the authority of "Levesque, disapproves the use of the term czar, and says that it ought to he written tsar. " l^s Russes donnent a leur soaverain le titre de Uar, et long twried, bowing $|ieir b«Ada to im crBWd, tonohn^ ftbort prajers. lo thi» riHud the droM of (he peasaats chains mam fHq^mil^ tW in Q^h^r partf^of Bufitia t and it ift reiaarkaUay thatt altboasb tbe dreMes o( (he w^m^ acia «» varioiu in Che4i&r9at proYiacfiiy ibosQ of tlie mQH are tbe saiat throiighoat tlie empire* 8erpuehof i§ a haodsome little to wn, on the river Nara« It.oeBt«ias a?ttadtlei|o}4isod hj a slnuigraniiparti aii4ha9 a. Wtywod«,witii his ehaaecry. Ip the marJket \re ob»erv«d ftbep9«oleiT appropriated to tlte «ale of the LetbhoA^ Uuwu9^ »aiidal9y whieh I hefoi^e deseriMf coastrueted of biroh or linden bark.* Soaie authors have ajiserted that eaeb pea- sant made km own^ Formtrly thia ni^ht have b^en tl|e casa$ and perhaps in the intertoiir U is so now^ Saeh shops, tM>wever, prove, that the r«4«9t and most aneie^t fom of sandal in the world? fiommon to man in a 9tate af nature, while roamiag his pnmeval for^^ts^ is new an arti- cle of eotnmerce. ▲te¥ei7 station on tbe ro^ts ther^ is SiB oSeer ealled ToteketUionej to superintend the nost) and to see that tra- vellers are regularly supplied witk horses. Some of these men are great rf^seats^ and will not farnifh horses witkoni a bribe, even when the imperiaJi ^der is prodneed* We eit- perieaeed delaj at this place from a person of this dessrip- tion« Our orcler directed, that if horses were not found at the po8t*house, the officer on duty was to proeure others from tbe peasants. 6eiq^ told that there were no hersef, I wept into the office to enforce the order. As I entered^ the Fotchetilione eommaoded me to take off mj hat : and Veiog ad^ed for what reason I was to remain bareheaded in that place : '^ What, are you blind," he exelaimed in a tone of great insolence, << that you do not see tbe emperour's ftortraitt en tbe wall B it is a faoe to make Sngiiahmen * See p. 105. Accordiag to Mr Heber, the linden^ or Kme-tree afR>rds tlfte l>ark i|«edfor the«e WBdals. ** This practioe of making shoes o( linden bark is very destructive to the treeSt as a man will wear out twenty (H* thif- ty pair of sandals in a year. The Jime-tree, of which these shoes arc made^ is a repy vaioable plaint, owing to the construction of mats from its bark» vhiith form a Tery eonsdderabte article of exportation. The lime-tree Is scarce in the western provinces. In the eastern it is very plentiful, and noaiisheaashighas^ohjingel.'^ Meifer^ a JifS. Journal. + Copies of the emperonr's portrait were sent, by order of Paul, to 90 pttblick offices of h^ empice. poxueoC thewi, m may be eoneeired^ irere €i9 ^LAKKX'S TKAVEX4 IK XWSrA. tMttUe.'* I endeavoiired to amwer him in kit ilini ^m^, ftjiaTiBgy/* the etnperoiir truly! If he knew how shame* fdlly yen belied his comiteiiaiiee by that vilerepreietttatioiiy year nead would come oflf sooner than my hat. Finding hii Siseonade had not snceeeded, he eaused it to be intimated, at he wanted a rouble^ I <^iild hardly eredit what I heard $ and shonid have been ashamed to ofter it, if he had not afterwards told me so himself. Horses now eame quiek enough, and half a dozen fine speeches into the bar- gain. About a yerst from this town we crossed tbe Oka, hr a ferry. This river falls into the Volga at ELolomna. It is a noble pieee of water, almost as broad as the Thames, and well stocked with fish. We had been detained so long at 8erpuehof, that evening was eominson when we arrived npon its banks. Peasants were seated in groups round dif- ferent fires, singing, and boiling their fish upon the shore. Innumerable frogs, which are heard to a great distance do- ling the night, and supply the placeof nightinealestn Rus- sia as in Denmark, joined the loud chorus ; while the moon, fall and splendid, rose over this fine scene. On the south side th6 river stood a small, wooden hut, at which onr driver desired to stop for a little qtia^, Havine acquired a relish for this Scythian bevera^, we followed him into the hut, but were astonished to find instead of quass, ftve or six bogheads which were full of brandy, and which they were retailing and drawing off exactly as our tapsters draw beer. I could not learn where they found customers for so great a consumption, but supposed them supplied by extraordinary traffick upon the river. Yet they assured me, such brandy huts were found in every village, and all of them equally well stocked. We arrived late the same night at Gelo Zavoda and wait- ed there till sunrise. In all the villages and towns, from Moscow to Worpnetz, as in other parts of Russia, are seen boys, girls, and sometimes even old men, playing with the small joint-bones of a sheep. This game is e&l\ti\ dibbs by the English. It is of very remote antiquity ^ for 1 have seen it beautifully representetl on Grecian vases, particularly on a vase in the collection of the late sir William Hamilton, where a female figure appeared most gracefully delineated, cxeeuted in a most wretched manaer. All persons were ordered to staa4 bareheaded before these pictures, as if in his presence. The peMSBtS fell ji^strate^ aud offered adoratiO0> as totibeir bc^ f AOV TI7I.A TQ WOlLOnTSr. iiT kmeiii^ «pQ» ime ksee, with her rif^ht arm extended, tfae pal« downward«> and tlte bones ranged alooo^ the back of her hand and arm. She teemed in the act of throwiqe up the bones in order to eateh then. In this manlier the Ras* sians play the game. But thej have another method, which eiaetly corresponds with oar game of marbles, and which prohaUy afforded the eriffiu both of marbles and of nine* ptBS : it consists of several large bones placed in a row upon the graand, while, with another bone, a eontest ensnes wh^ shall beat them all down, from a giren distance, in the smallest number of throws. It is a pleajsing si|ht to see the young viUa^rs retnni in Oie evening from their labour. They walk with flowers in their hats, movipg slowly up the village, and singing a kind of hymn. In these eantations, each person bears his respec- tive part of the harmony, and, by the exoetness with wbicil the Russians observe time and tune, the effect is very intern esting. Yegetation had been very ranid, even in the interval of our short journey from Moscow;^ but in the garlands with whiek the peasants were adorned, and among the plants obr served near the road, we found only the earliest flowers f and among these, none worthy of particular notice. Th^. whole territory, whether to the south of Moscow, or in anv other direction, is flat. Theffreat, orieQtal pioiu eiteadk from that city, even to Tobolsk! in Siberia, and thonghout> all the southern provinces, appearing generally destitute of wood, and always^ without enclosures. 8one part of the country of Cambridge affords a striking resemblance of the country. There is no reason to fear, in the writing of those whe travel throng Russia, any narrative of their adventures at inns.Except m large towns, such houses are never seen : and eveii then they ore abominable. Better accommodation may be obtained in the farm houses of the Lapland peasanta than in Russian inns. In the latter, the rooms consist of bare walls, filthy beyond description $ destitute alike of beds and chairs« Sometimes they are kept by foreigners, ii^ which case the evil is not mended ; heeause then, although a little old furniture is introduced, it is always offensive, and affords a receptacle to all kinds of vermin. A person who wishes to traverse Russia^ must consider it as aneient 8«y« thia. Hp most pmvide every thing for wfai^h he may baTf» oeeasioo. If he can endure fatigue with little sleep, dust, e seorching sun^ or )ie?e^e frost, with^eooeb ef Biiew bmeatk ils ola&kb's travels in RVSnAr the eanopy of beaven, he may travel in a kibitki, whieh 19 the best or all methods of conveyance. If not, according to the method recommended in the first chapter, he mast have a couch in his carriage, with the additional precaution of ^reat strength in the vehicle, which should be made low, and with very wide axle-trees. This circumstance will render his journey not quite so expeditious as in a lighter machine ; but he will always be able to proceed at the rate of a hundred versts in a day. If he can smoke, tobacco, used moderately, may preserve him from dangerous infee*- tion, and the many unpleasant odours to which he will be exposed. It will, moreover, counteract the consequences of eontinual travelling and want of rest, repel vermin, and offer a resource in long fasting, upon dusty plains, on lakes, rivers, unwholesome marshes, and beneath chilling dews. It also promotes the digestion of bad food, which he mn$f necessarily often encounter. The next day, June the third, we passed through Yasza^ ny and Celo Volotia to Tula, the capital of the goverment of the same liame, and the Birmingham of Russia. Neaf the town we collected specimens of a plant which the peas- ants boil in milk, as a remedy for disorders of the bowels, and a disease which they term <^ sickness of heart." It ia Lathrma sqtmmaria^ a plant difficult to preserve, on aecoant of its succulent nature. Some time before we reached Tula, it presented a con^id-^ erable appearance. A very handsome church with white ^lumns, more like a nobleman's palace than a place of worship, appeared above the town, which occupies a very ^Ktensive vale, and is filled with spires and domes. The entrance to it, both on its northern and southern side, is through triumphal arches made of wood, and painted to im- itate marble. In former times, Tula was a dangerous plaee t» visit; the inhabitants frequently pillaging travellers in the publiek streets. Now, it is the great eoiporium of hardware for the whole empire ; containing a manufactorr of arms, all sorts of cutlery, and works in polished steel. As soon as you arrive at the inn, a number of persons crowd the room, each bearing a sack filled with trinkets, knives^ inkstands, ineense pots, silk-reels, scissors, and corkscrews. Their work is showy, hot very bad, and will not bear the tnallest eomparison with our English wares : it is a suffi- •lent proof of the superiority of English workmanship, that ibey stamp all their goods with the names of Bngliah imfh^ TULA. ii% EiidBnludli artifieerft : imitatiogp evea tlie marks of tLe Sheffield manufaetarers, and adopting all their models. The wares hawked about are made during holydajs and hours of leisure, and these the workmen are permitted to Refl to strangers, as their own perquisites. Thej are able to fabricate any thing, but they finish nothing. Some of them were purposely sent to £ngland by the late empress, who neglected no measure which might eonduee to the ad- vancement of jthe manufactory. I asked those who had worked in England, why their wares were so badly finished* They replied, they could finish them better, bnt could not l)estow the necessary time ; for as every article is the pro- duce of the labour of a single person, the high price sueh additional labour would require would never be obtained. The best work we saw was in a manufactory of barometers, thermometers, and mathematical instruments ; but the arti- ficer was a German, who had been instructed under English masters in Petersburgh. The late empress bought up al- most all the work which her English workmen eompleted. To eneonrage them, she ordered spectacles by the gross, and afterwards distributed them in presents. In her pal- aces she had thermometers in every window ; and as the servants continually broke them, her workmen had suffi- •eient demands to keep them in constant labour by previd-^ ing a supply. naving a letter to one of the principal persons in the imperial manufactory, we were permitted to see the whole of it They showed us a splendid collection of workmanship in guns, swords, pistols^ &c. designed as presents from the inhabitants of Tula to each member of the royal family, upon PauPs accession to the throne. These offerings were irefused by the emperour, upon a pretext of dissatisfaction experienced by him from the people of the place. The true eause, however, was known to be his steady determination of oppressing and insulting every individual, or set of indi- Tidoals, patronized by his mother. Whatever might cast odium upon her memory; whatever might sully the lustre of her fame ; by interrupting the progress of her . plant for publiek improvement; by dismissing her statesmen and offieers ; by poisoning the sources whence she dispensed happiness among her people ; by overthrowing her estab- lishments; blasting the tender, but thriving shoots <tf 9cienee, and of the arts which she had planted ; converting good to evil, and joy to S^^^^ ^^ the nope and the ocea- IM Clarke's TRAttLS in KvstiA« paticm of Iter aDB&tui*aI smi. To the few years of Iii« tyva* ny (for erery one saw tliat his government would soon end) lie proved a greater scoar^ to Rnssia than ean be coun- terbalaneed by another long and glerioas career like that lof Catherine's, marked by wisdom, wealth, power, eon* quest, glory, and beneficence.* Already every trace of her brilliant reign had disappeared. The Kussians, on the ac- cession of Paul, fell hack into the barbarity which charac- terized the empire before the . age of their first Peter. The polished nations of Earope will be surprised to learn, that immortal as the name of Catherine appears in their annals, it was almost forgoten, in Russia, witnin foUr4years ^fter her death; it remained among the number of priva- tions enjoined by the long list of publick proscriptions, and was heanl only in the howling of the wind that drif- ted the snows of Siberia; no one dared to mention it. At the same time, her favourites were displaced ; her minis- ters rejected ; her officers dismissed ; her monuments over- thrown : even the verst posts, which bore some marks of her taste, were demolished ; and near their ruins stood a series of wooden Harlequinades^ m the uniform of their lB«d sovereign. Tula, in its present situation, is not likely to prove any advantage to the empire; beeause the inhahitants are una- ble to raise the water which is wanted to put the whole fbbriek in motion. The machinery i^ iU constructed, and worse preserved. Every thing seemed out of order. Workmen, with long beards, stood staring fit each other, pondering what was to be done ne^st; while their inten- dants and directors were drunk or asleep. Notwithstanding all this, they pretended to issue from the manufaotory, in the common course of business, without any particular 4Mtler from government, thirteen hundred muskets in a wvek. But the name of musket is almost all that connects the appearance with the reality* It is wouderfol any troops * Such was, at leaat, the cUaraeter of hep publktk adiaiilisitrationj Her prirate vices were those of the people over whom srflie reigned. Tlie reader will find them tolerably portrayed in the ** Secret Jfemoirf ofthA Court of J'eterabur^hy'* a woHt attributed lx> Se^ur. T«t, who shA re- late the butcheries of the Orlofe, tiie Paasbks, and Saratinalci'a^ of Raw- ■a ? All that Shakspeare hsA fabled of the crueUiej of llichar^ the third, jeem to hare been realized under the reign of Catherine, whether will* ller oonnivance has not be«n aseei1:ained. The " quick co^rveyana^ of W huabaiid, of the HoUtein gusuxie, of f^rinee Ivan, might be the«^^ fl^ber favourites j but can we behiivc Alexin* O^lof aloue inipli|iftt«d itt fhetate rf the innoeobt danshtet of the empress EKrabcth I TULA. 131 ean nse t^em : besides bein^ clumsy and heavy, they miss fire five times ont of six, and are liable to burst whenever disehar^d. The streets of Tula are paved, and its shops and ptibliek places present a greater appearance of activity and industry than is usual in Knssia. The number of its merchants, in- clnding;, I suppose, shopkeepers, is estimated at four thou- sand ; of which some are very rich. Its commerce, inde^* pendent of the hardware manufactory, consists in European merchandise, Greek wines, and other productions, of Tur- key. The imperial fabrick of arms employed six thousand workmen ; and the number of its inhabitants was stated at thirty thousand. It stands in a smooth valley, on the bor- ders of the river Upa. There are few woods in its neigh- bourhood, and yet they produce sufficient fuel for the con- sumption of the town. This may be attributed to the very great economy introduced by the use of stoves; for th* neatin:; of which, afew billets, 6arly in the mornins, suffice | and they continue afterwards to diffuse an equal warmth during the whole of the day and following night. If they are properly t^oastructed and attended to, there is no method of heating apartments with so little expense and so many conveniences. In England, stoves are generally made of east iron, which are not merely unwholesome, but, in small rooms, very dangerous. Why the Russian and Swedish stove has not become common in our country, where every article of fuel is so amazingly expensive, must be explained by those who prefer more costly, and perhaps more cheerful hearths, llie generality of houses in Tula are of wood ; but the number of those built with stone is considerable, and increa&es daily, Matly new buildings aiford proof of increas- ing population. We observed women employed in repairing th& pavement of the streets, which is kept in good order. The dress'of the young females, when clean, displayii their persons to advantage. A white shift covers the arms and the body in front; and is fastened behind with tape. It is drawn tight over the breast, and there held together by s^ imall button. The iron mines in the neighbourhood of this place are very considerable ; tltey occupy an extent of more than ten miles, in a country somewhat hilly, covered by thick woods. The whole of the soil around them is impregnated with iron ; but the richest ore is found towards the west. It lies soareely conceaied by a superiBcambent surface, not more M i23 OLARKe's tRAVELS IN RUSSIA. than fourteeti inches thick, consisting of sancl miied with mould, and sometimes of sand alone. From these mines the celebrated forges of Demidof, distant thirty-eight miles from Tula, derive' their ore. As soon as we left Tula, we quitted the main road from Moscow to Gherson, and turned off doe south, towards Wo-> ronetz. After ascending the heights above Tula, we were carried into a wide and desolate plain, covered only by a thin sod, on which herds of cattle were grazing. This de- viation was not made on our part without apprehension. We bad reason to fear that unknown roads might not suit a cariiage ill constructed for adventurous jouniey; lofty, %vilh narrow axle-trees, and more calculated for cities than deserts. To our great satisfaction, however, and for the comfort and guidance of others who choose to follow our route, the whole distance to Woronetz may be passed over like a bowling-green, and the lightest vehicle would be ex- posed to no hazard of injury. This vast plain afforded us the finest road in the world, not excepting even those of Sweden, being all the way a firm, hard turf, exactly like that which covers the South Downs in Sussex, and with the additional advantage of being, for the most part, level, ex- tending like an ocean,in which the eye roams without diseem- ing a single object to interrupt the uniformity. Over the first part of the Journey from Tula, small copses in patches might be distinguished, and in these we noticed dwarf oaks, the first seen since we entered Russia from the Swedish frontier, except one in a garden at Moscow, shown there as a scarce plant, and cut into a barbarous form, like the Yew-Trees in old-fashioned English shrubberies. Among these copses were found the Potentilla mserina, which we had seen at Tula 5 the Jisperula odoraia^ or Sweet JVoodroof; and a species of Geum^ which I was not able to ascertain. The. view of Tula from the elevated plain above it, over ^ hich the road passes towards Woronetz, is very fine. There is not a more pleasing prospect in Russia. The town itself, with its numerous white buildings, dome% towers, and rising spires, is a fine object Trees are seen skirting the suburban downs, and spreading here and there in the valley, while cattle graze all around it. At the same time, the ear is greeted by' the cheerful noise of indus- try and manufactures ; the ringing of bells ; the lowing dT the herds i and the loud chorus of peasants singing their national airs^ accompanying the voice, either by the eiap- TirtA. lis pTng of kiuids, or by the notes of their rude pipes, which they still eoostruet of the same materials as the sandals on their feet At this time, also, nameroas caravans were passing from the Ukraine and from the Don; and the whole eonstiiuted so striking a contrast to scenes we had long been accastomed to Yiew in the cold regions of the north, that we seemed suddenly transported to a different zone. The rapture was not of long duration. It is impossible to imaepiue a place more miserable than the town or village of Dedilof, the first station, and distant only twenty miles*^ from Tula. It consists of several timber huts, coarsely thatched with straw. The interstices of the'trunks of trees, which, lying horizontally, form the walls of the hats, are i&lied with mud. It stands in a wide and open district, half on the top and half on the bottom of a hill. At first sight it appears like a number of dunghills, or heaps of straw ; And it is onlv bv a ver;f near approach that the traveller can he convinced of its being the residence of human beings ; much less that it shduld figure in a Russian map as a townu It is from seeing such places that we may conceive what sort of cities and towns anord the names which we find in the Russian atlas, so profusely scattered over the eastern prov- inces of the empire. The wretched state of Dedilof must, however, be attributed to causes which may desolate the fairest cities of the world. It has experienced calamities, both of fire and water; and been so oiten reduced to ashes, that its inhabitants dread even the sight of a tobacco-pipe. Seeing me light mine, the starosta of the place was sent to request I would not use it, especiallv in tne open air, as a casual spark might again involve them in flames. Near the upper part oi this place is an immense pool filled with water, which once was level, dry ground, like the rest, and covered by houses. Suddenl v subterranean waters, penetra- ting the soil} rendered it so loose, that the ground, with all the houses gave way in one night, and the place was trans- formed into a small lake. As the whole district is swampy, Tendering the soil naturally loose, and spungy, and water is found immediately below the surface, there is reason to apprehend, sooner or later, that all the land about it will experience tke same alteration. This is rendered moriB probable by an event which occurred a few years ago. At * Thirty verrts. a $m^ll cli«tane« from the p«ol or lake I bave mentifiied, w another! wbieh owes Us origin toiisimiiar eatastrophe* The inhabitaaUof D^dilof are peasaats»i» the greatest poverty^ and tliejr sole peeupation is tilla^. la our josmey thither, we invited some of their fellow-sufierers in bondage to dritifc oar king's health, it being his birth daj [Jane 4» 1800,] We had reserved a bottle for the purpose of it» celebration; so with hearts yearning for old Kngfand, we drank : <' Goi save great George T' as we fled from despotism through a land of slaves* We were now traversing the sontbern latitude of our bor loved eountry, in a direct line towards the south ; and, a^ we appiToaehed Woronetz, observed manv of olirindigenoof plantei the large thistle, the kilk*weea, dandelion, white el»f er, wood strawberry, plantain, and the dockweed. Sod- den and loud thunder storms, with hall and rain, majestiekr roiling elonds, temporary gusts of ivind, and transitory sua* beams, often reminded us of an English spring* Sueh natu- ral resemblance is by no means the necessary aeeompani* ment of similarity in latitude. Naples and Constantinople are, with respect to each other, nearly an the same Uoe of latitude $ but the climate of the latter is niany degrees colder. The mild aspect of the plain of Woronetz may be attribnt^ to the want of forests, the removal of which, im all countries, increases the temperature of their climate. It is a well known passage in Horace^ which describes tha inonntain Soraote white with saow ; but the climate of Italy is now souitered, that such a sight is hardly ever obser% edL < The ncKt day, June the tfth, we passed through the towa of Boghoroditz, on an eminence above which place Bobria- «ky, said to have been a son of the late empress, by Orlof^ has a magnificent seat,' with an estate of the finest corn iaud in Rusisia, covering an exteut of si&teen square mUes^ and containing^ as it is reported, seventy thousand p«asant«. Here you travel for miles and miles, and see. nothing but corn. It is the richest country in the empire. The roads are so excellent, that the wagons of the peasants, although laden with stones, pass and repass with wooden wheeli, mthout any iron» The period is uncertain when the Uttle town of Bogho- roditz was built. Its inhabitants began to hold their archives under the Tsar Feodore Alexovitz. The shopkeep- crs,tbe Slreltzi, and the Puschk^ri, with about one hundred invalid soldiers, have composed, since that time, its inhab* sm^u TULA TO woaoKsxac. ±st9 ituite. The ealture of land U described at beins, at pret- lent, their sole resoaree, and tUe fertility of the soil has ren* dered it remarkabl j produetive. They related^ that the peasants had even a small saperfinit^jr to sell, whieh they carried to Kaluga and to Tula. This plaee also affords plenty of honey to these towns. From Bo^oroditz we traversed boundless plains, without a single enelosure, until we came to Celo Nikitzkoy, the country round whieh has, of late years,been maeh cultivated. Formerly it was like the rest of those deserts which the Russians call steppes,* and which are so frequent south of Woronetz. The soil here, notwithstanding its recent des- 4»late condition, consists of near two feet of eood, black, vegetable earth, lying upon a bed of marl. The plants we observed infioweron this day [June 6th3 are all known in England ; ^' the bird's foot trefoil, the purple mountain milk vetch, the germander, the globe flower, and the wood anemone." Nikitzkoy was once in a low and swampy spot, exceedingly unwholsome, in consequence of whieh, the in- habitants moved it to the more elevated situation it now holds $ but being too lazy to nse the materials of the houses they had abandoned for their new settlement, it was deemed expedient to set them on fire $ when the flames communica- ting to the peat, of which there is abundance near the place, continued burning for six months with great vehemence, in spite of all the efforts made to extinguish them. The in- habitants now suffer much from a scarcity of fuel ; yet they inake no endeavour to eoUeet the peat which still remains, and dry it for their hearths as a substitute. We saw here a curious funeral ceremony. The lid of the coffin, being formed of one piece of wood, scooped like a canoe, was not fnt on till the deceased was laid iu his grave. They buried im in all his clothes, even to the saadus before described. Mead was brought to the grave, to be drank there, iu a • howl, with a number of small wax bougies stuck round the rim. The women kept up a kind of musical howl, singing their lamentations in stnuns truly dolorous.f The rest of • The word steppe, does not imply what we i^erally understand by the word desert. A steppe \a a plain without any visible boundary, perfect- ly flat, but frequently covered by spontaneous and luxuriant vegetation. it is moreover uninhabited, except by nomade tribes^ who pitch their tents there oocasioDally, and for a shoi't time. f Of the antiquity of this custom, a single passage from the coiKlanon of Homer's Iliads as traniUted by Cowpers will suffice : MS iM CLAAKfi's TRAVELS IK ntf^t^. ttie ftltMi^iitS) i»gt«ftd of johiinif in tin difgt, «r the ^fftrt^ nuonial Ht^s, irere QeeRpiedf tn ^rosiin^ tkemselves, «nd ifv ' proBtratkHis towards tlu; east, bowtng their heads until they touehed with their foreheads the other gr»res near tbe place of interment. The lid of the coffin Was ho^rn first, corened by a linen cloth, after which followed the tower part with th^ bod J ; so that it seemed as if twio eolffins were earried to one grave. We journeyed hence to Bolshoj Piaty. Soon after pas- sinj^ this last villa^y we observed, on our left, the novel and pleasing appearance of a fine w«od, In wh4eh I found that beautiful plant, the cmvailaria ttvottiflora^ in full bloom, neaer si& feet in heis^ht, and flourishing in great luxurianee. M> terwards we came to Effremof, written inn properly Jerernow, in the Berlin edition of the great map of Russia. It is a. small, insignificant town> upon a high hill, at the foot of viriiieh flows a river which falls into the D on, written Jtleto>^ i7ut,attd Metxa^ but pronouneed Mecha, or Meka [to mark the aspirate more strongly] by the people. In a eountry «• monotonous as that we were new passing, inte resting infor- siatfon is neither expected nor obtained. The nature of the soil, its ptof^ee^ the uniformity of scenery, and the Presses of the people, afford few remarks, and those nowise im^ portant. Sterne ludicrously, but tvisely, observed that nothing puto a writer of travels to so mueh diificiilty, as sending him over an extensive plain. To journey many leagues, and say nothing, might seem like inattention ; bat to write observations of no moment is less pardonable than any omission. . We passed a place w^lich would give me some diffiealty if I should attempt to express it by any law of orthography that may convey an idea of the Russian mode of pronunm- tion.* Afterwards^ leaving the government of Tola, we ca- tered titat of Orlof^ as we w«re informed ; but in the fiedtn map it is laid down as the government of Orel. The female eostume here is very singn W. The caps of the women are triangular, having the veHex In f^nt^ so that the base ex* *' And gingers placed be«ide him, tvho shouid chaant Tlie strain funereal : they with many a grOan Tlie dirge began, and stin at evefy close The female train with mnny a groan repUed." * It may be wiitten Mc^laifevku »• thtio, if the ij be prtmoitneed as oU? y, and the v as an^; it bcoooMft ^MafUiyefka^ w1m».I bQ)ii«rQ,ia joear ^te mark. Pn^iti TVLA TO WOROWBTZ. ^iS7 Ut4$ hMtA ]lke*tw8f \mtm»f wbteh ^ven ihmi n very odd apfHBttraflce; «t ^ Miiiietime thej \^ar a froek^ faard^ refteftiiig to tlieir knees. Ib titetr ears tkey have larttB h#OB vin^n^t »iilikeilie»e latfely wofniiy ladies in LoadoB aad Paris*. Tbey kada,ls(» pendaBtB of pieces of meiai attaehed to a. haadkerebtef, or ei^, wliieh eoyered the baek part of Ihetr head. FroeeefUng towards Celo PetrofskiaPalDia, we wore Buieh surprised by a speetacle similar to that whieh Bruee roloites hft%4B8^ seea IB Afriea. We observed at a donsidem^le dis- Hwee voi^aieoiBti^TNtof sand^ reaehitigt as it appeared^ fioBi ike earth to theelouds, and passiag with amazini* Ripidky aflroasrthe honzoB. Otir serrant, a Greek, aativB of CoRstantaioiik, related an instanee of a child in the Ukraine^ who was takeii up by ooe of such tornados, and, after being whirled round ami round 9 had every limb bro- iuan in itft fail. He declared he wks eye-witaess of the ea^ tntrophe* Passing the village I have named^ we after- wards arrived at filetx, or leletz, a l^it;e, paved% town of «oB8idembfo,exteBt, situated between the river, wheaee its siame has beeB derived, and the Sossna. This plaee was entirely destroyed by fire.in l74^ and since rebuilt* It stands OB a lofty and steep hill, and maintains a considera^ ble eommerce in cattle aud corn. ' Agriculture here is in a very flourishing state> and- tlio enviroBS abound in wood. Its inhabitasts consist of merchants, artisans, Pusehari, luid SH*eltzi. lt» merchandise is derited from Moscow aad the Ukraine 5 and it <earrtes on a great, internal trade in the sale of honey and leather to the people of the town and neighbourhood. The naaiher of th^ belofigins* to the erowD, paying triimte, amounts to two thousand three handrediindtwenty-tiiree. We observed a number of forges at work, and found that the number of smiths, and other a^ tiicers in ironialone, atnoOn^ed to t^vo bundled. ' Eletx is -renowned for the eelebriity of its forges. Part of the iron is ftorived from a mine near the village of Yisnistdenez, the ivbolo dsstrieiareBiid wlueh place, to some v^rsts ki extent, exJbibits a IbrugiBeus soil« PeasfUits raise the surface with spades UBtH they reach the ore $ but as the snperfi^es which isrms the roof of the mine consists of clay aod sandy the tides of the apertaures they make are very apt to fall in : Wk this account they make the opening so narrow, that they are Mforked with difiieuity; the operation being cairied on «»tire}y in akafta widioiit any levels or. even iBciiaed oi^a- 1^8 CLARSb's travels IK EVSSJ^A. ▼ation. There are also in the vieiiiitj of Ud^uio, u^b the eastern banks of the Don, in hills of the same name^ mines of iron in a state of exploration ; but as thej have hitherto nei^lected the analysis of their ores, and, instead of making any selection, mix the whole together without the smallest attention to quality, the metal turns out brittle, de- fective, and altogether bad. In the foi^es of Tula, where more eantion is used in this respeet, the iron is of s very snperiour nature. In the streets of Eletz, I observed large heaps of stone fof" the purpose of building, the substance of which was porous and peiTorated, traversed in all direetions by a deposit of marine animals. It resembled the kind of limestoae found on the banks of the Mosqua, but was more characterised by the impressions of the extraneous bodies. Visiting the high banks of the river near the to wn, I found large masses of a similar deposit, lying in regular strata.* Hereafter I shall take ocGasionto show, that such appearances may be observed in all the great, oriental plain, declining from the Aral, the Caspian, and the sea of Azof, towards the Blaek Sea ; au* thentick monuments of a vast ocean, once covering tha whole of Tartary, whose diminished waters are still effect* ing a further retreat by the channels of Constantinople and the Dardanelles. A musical instrument, more common in remoter periods, amused us in the streets of Eletz. It eonsisted of two reeds put together in the mouth. The performer was a blaek- smith's boy, who played several tunes. The reeds were each about six inches in length, and not thicker than a quill. Such were the Tibife used in processions, of which representations appear upon antique bas-reliefs, and the firesco paintings of Uerciuaneum and. Pompeia, and upon vases i«)und in Greeian tombs. From Eletz, we continued our journey through the village of Ezvoly to Zadonetz. In all this route we were con- tinually met by caravans from the Don, the Crimea, and other parts of the south of Russia. These caravans form- ed a line ef wagons, thirty or forty in number, hearing hrand V, wool, eorn, &e. Sometimes they consisted of cat- tle onfy; cows of an ash colour, horses, goats, sheep, and hogs, all moving in the same promiscuous herd, aoeompa* • We found here the VerMica Serpt/lH/olia, a Cineraria, urhich I be- lieve to be the Siborica ; and a new s^iecies of Gvpsophila, growing with Cfi^two Bivak {[water Ayens] mu} Kammeukm Aunomm f%ok]»lodM.3 ttied \if I^h) BuMiatiS} OosM«kv aad^Uier inbi^iHtaiiU^ tiitile R«6Ma and the Ukraine. At a short di»lan<;e from ZadosetE, we eroMed the Doi| by a ferry. Jt preheated a broad, «lear, and rapid eurreat* The town stands apon a hill above the river, and oiiee formed one of a line of forts erected from thi» place te Za- ritzin, to prevent the incursions of the Tartars and Cosr ^acks. It has now.asiiperintendant, or Garodnitch^ and appears, libe the ether towns throagh whieh we passed, to be hi a thriving state. In all of them new houses were bailding^ and the appearance ^activity promised improve* nient. At Zadonetz I foui^d a plant whieh is entirely un« known. Professor Pallas told me he had never seen it ; and, as I have not yet been able to obtain a nsune for it from any English botanist, I shall reserve the description of it for the appendix to this volume. From Zadonetz, our journey led us through the sweetest eosntrj imaginable, eovered ¥^th Woods full of flowers, fruit trees, and a number of plants, which plainly indicated an approach to Warmer climates. Apple und other fi-nit trees sprouted wild among yonng oaks, and vegetables not found nearer the north pole. The name of tbfe river will, perhaps, not meet the reader's attention so readily in the compound word Zadonetz, as if written Zadonsk ; in which manner it appears in the best maps. I have imitated the mode of protianeiation as ntsarly as possible. Donetz ar^ Donsk, are both nanses of the Don. Farther to the south, and nearer the mouths of the river, the pronunciation isk sometimes Daneetz, of Danee^s, and Tdatn^ts, henee the transition to Tanais is not very equivocal ; nor eai^ much donbt be entertained concerning the origin of the appella- tion bestowed by the ancients upon the river. In what a variety of languages has this Word Don, with its roots and ramifications, been used to signify a river, a lake, or cities on the mouths of rivers! Don, Donets, Dun, Den, Dan, Danau, Tan, Tane, Ain, An, En, &e. &.e. Thus we have Jordan ; Tanis a name of Bai's, on the Nile ; Tan y bwlcfi, in Wales 5 Danube ; Thames 5 Ain, and Colerain, in the noHh of Ireland 5 Eden, in the same country 5 Tyne,and many others. As i^e advanced through Celo Chlebnoy, we beheld, at a distance en our right hand, the D»n rolling in a very ma- jesiick and devious course, while the full moon cast her lieht vpoii its walers. We halted for the night at a plaee eaUod 480 clarkb's travels iir russia. Beftnzevka, almost a solitary hat in the midst of wide* plains ; and were somewhat struck by the singular manner m which a peasant cautioned us not to sleep there, but pro- ceed another stage. Triflins circumstances of this kind, often excite the suspicions or travellers $ and in this lonely situation we were puzzled by conjectures whether an at- tempt was made to lead us into, or out of a snare ; howe- ver it ended, like many such adventures, in nothing. The next morning, June 7th, was passed very expedi- tiously, through Celo Staroy Ivotinskoy to the town of Wo- ronetz ; situated upon a river of the same name^ near ih^ ^mt where it falls into the Don. CHAPTER XI. FROM WORONETZ TO THE TERRITORY OP THE DDK COSSACKS. Present state of Woronetx — Climate and Productions — Oar- den of Peter the Great — Inundation and Product of the Bivers — Increase of Buildings — Jirsmal — Cammerce^ internal and external — fVine of the Don — Change of Manners^ and of Features-^^-jyeglect of Drowned Persons y^^Tumuli — Malo Russians — Putins south of Woronet;^ '^Celo Usmani — Podulok Muscovskoy — Mmocksy Ekort- xy^ and lestakovo — "Ivocova Sloboda — raulovskoy — Plants — Jinimals^-^Trade — Rash Conduct of a young Peasant — Kazinskoy Chutor — Mzney Momon — Dohrin^ ka — Metscha — Kdmnkaiay first Stanitxa of the Don Cossacks. IN the time of Peter the Great, when that monarch came to Woronetz to build his first ship of war, there were scarce a hundred wooden huts in the place. It is now a very handsome town $ and Its commerce entitles it to eon- siderable distinction. By means of the Don, it possesses an easy intercourse with the Black Sea. Every year, vessels go laden to Tseherkaskoy* with corn ; and they accom- • The name of this town, the capital of the Bon Cossacks, is geaerany f roaounced Tscheixhasky } the teroiinating syllable koi, wUch signifies « i WOROMETZ. lai plish their voyia^e in about two months. In winter they receive mereliairaifie by sledges, from the Crimea and Tur- key. Its merchants travel into Siberia for furs, and then carry them even to the fairs of Franefort. How stranse are those journeys to an Englishman! The Russian Mvost^ chick is seen at Franefort fair ; and the same person may be found in the remotest parts of Siberia. Sometimes thev pursue their course even to the coasts opposite England, and buy English hardware, cottons, Japan ware, &e. with which they travel to all parts of Russia. Woronetz, from its remarkable situation, is particularly qualified to become a gr^at capital. It is placed so as to en- joy the advantages both of warm and cold climates, and liolds an intercourse with all parts of the empire. Nature is so bountiful to it in the summer, that plants found in very southern latitudes grow here almost without care. The wa* termeton, so rarely in perfection any where, is as common at Woronetz as the cucumber in England, and flourishes in the open air, with spicy and aromatiek herbs. Yet the in* habitants experience very great extremes of temperature ; having sometimes, by the thermometer of Reaumur, thir- ty degrees of cold in the winter, and twenty-eight decrees of heat*^ in the summer. They use the precaution ordouble easements to their windows, as at Moscow and Petersburgh, and have very large stoves in all their apartments. In the ^Journal des savans VoyageurSy^^ published at Berne in 1792, a commentator attempts to explain the cause of the extraordinary difference observed in the productions of the climate and soil of Woronetz, when compared with those of other countries in the same latitude ; by saying that the nature of the soil necessarily supplies that which the cli- mate would not othen« ise affbra.f The earth is strongly impregnated with nitrat of potass in all the enirirons of Woronetz; and it is to the presence of this mineral, that extraordinary fertility of the Ukraine has been at- tributed. The whole country south of Tula abounds with it, insomuefa that it sometimes effloresees on the soil ; and several fabrieks for extracting it have been established^ The immediate soil below the town of Woronetz is sand ;^^ town, being often tbuB abbreTiated ; as in the instance of Tobohkoi, vhieb is called ToboUky, I bare substituted the y for the f» as being more con* aiBtent with the usual practice in the English language. * Bqual to ninety-five of Fi^r^heit t See Note top. 116, Vo^fageB ehet let Peupte$ Kalmouks et let Tar- iBfi . Clarke's tratexs or kvssia. <m a steep mo«nd, er bank of which h has heen hntiU It lies in the fifty-foutth de^ee of north latitude. The vine- jrards M Europe termiQate nan j degrees nearer to . the equator, and yet the Tine flourishes at W»rofietz. The inha- bitants Deg>leet to enltivate it for the purpose of makina^ %tine; importing* it at ffreat expense from the Bon Cos- iKieks, the Greeks, Tarks, and people of the Crimea. It irequently happens in France, m the prtnrinf^ of Cham- pagne that the grapes do not attain their maturity ; on which account susar is sabstituted ia the prepmration of the Champagne wine.* At Woronetz, where every fa«ility of establishing extensive riaeyards has been oflbred by Na- tare, they have been entirely neglected. Gmeiin endea- Toiired to nrake them sensible oftl^ importance and adran- tages which the town mi^ht derive from tbe ffroifvth of r'lwts; but hitlierto no attention has been paid t« them. The «leUcious wine of the Don Cossacks is iotind here in ^reat abundance, bot it sells at very high prices. They serve it with a plate of ice, a pieee of which is put into the glass when the wine is drank. It is light and pleasant, efferves- cing like Champagne, but haviag more the flavour of B«t- gnndy. Peter the Groat endea^roared to establtsh a botaniek e^- den in the neighbourhood of Woronetz^ upon a rorj ^rand scale. This we visited, and found a complete wilderness of oaks and other forest trees, the underwood growing so thick under tlie large trees as to r^idar o«r passage thraiigli it impossible. Tfai garden was expresaly appropriated to experiments in the cuUiTation of useful pknts, friiit-trees, tegeUUdes, and what ever else might be found likely to an* swer the purposes of horticultnre in such a climate* Not- Withstanding all the pains bestowed by that wise monarch upon this institution, it fell in(» negte^, lik-e manj others taleulated for the benefit of his peo^de, as soon as bio pow' er ceased to enfbree the care of it. Omelin relaleayt that in his time, the governour of Wor onetz used ail |ioa»hle •ndeavours to restore this gavden to its pristine order. The • The Champagne wine has been imitated in England with great suc- cess, by nsing gooseberries before thev ripen, and- sapptying ikte want of the sacckarine aieid with loaf sugar. If the process be properlj attended to^ tliere is o&en very tittle dinerence. Both are artificial compounds. The common Chainnagne wine drank in tliis country is made with green grapes and sugar. The imitation of it, with gretn gooseberries and sugar, 4a full as salutary, and frequently as iialatebie. t JwTTUd dersm9(m$ Viyagsvr*,^. 114. WOUONETZ. 438 eonseqnenee was, that all sorts of A'uit-trees, partienlarTy the Title, the ehestnnt, and the filbert, prodaced the finest erops. SaJOTron flourished in abundance, and many pfants peculiar to warmer climates. The cherry, the apple, and the near tree grew wild in the forests around the town ; but the fruit of them, and their better cultivation, was, and is still, entirely neglected by the people. I found two plants very rare in England, flourishins among the weeds of the place, the Campanula pafu/a [Spreading Bell-fiowerl which grows in South Wales, and near Marloorou^h ; ana the Jljuga pyramidalia or Mountain Biigle. The other plants collected by us in the neighbourhood of Woronetz, are given in a note, to avoid the pedantry of crowding the text with words not familiar to every reader.* Stagnant waters, left by the annual inundation of the river, render the place very unwholesome during certain seasons of the year. ^Flie inhabitants, both in spring and autumn, are subject to tertiaii and quartan fevers, which become epi- demiek, and attack hundreds at a time. The want of proper remedies for such disorders, and the diet of the geopfe, which is then for the most part of very indigesti- le rood, such as salted fish and salted cucumbers, frequent- W causes the ague to degenerate into a continaal fever, a dropsy, or a consumption. Both the Woronetz and the Doa supply the inhabitants of all this country with an astonishing quantity of fishes; in the list of which the earp is the most abundant, but they have also tench, ster- bet, bream, bleak, trout, lamprey, perch, and pike. The last absoLutelr swarm in their rivers, and grow to a prodi- gious sl'ze. The flesh is not on that account coarse, yet it Is only the poorer class of people who eat it. When nature is profuse in her oflerings, the love of novelty induces ni to reieet, and even to despise, her bounty. The change of season, as at Moscow, does not take place lU; Woronetz with that uncertainty which characterizes our elimate. Winter regularly begins in December, and ends ID the middle of March. According to Gmeljn, the autumu resembles a moderate summer. Vegetation is so rapid du- ring spring, that on the 9th of June, 1 saw a pear tree which had put forth a strong scion abov^ a yard in length* We found the climate so different from the temperature to which Mw speotea of Ei^horbta^Salma rmtaiu^Verbutcum Phmniciun^^ CheUdonium minu9 — Rammculwlllynmi — Viola tricolor (Heiut's^ate.) i84k ULARKe's TRAVEtft IN RUSSIA. we had been lately aeeustomed^ that we were campeUed to alter our elothine altogether. The beams of the sua were intolerable ; while a southeast wind, like, a siroeeo, blew frequently and even tempestuonsly, eausine insuffera- ble heat, during the time we remained here. Tne only me- thod we had ofcooling our apartments was by shutting the windows and drawing curtains over them. Perhaps tbe sudden transition we had made from colder countries, might render usi peculiarly sensible of the oppressive heat of the atmosphere. New buildings were rising in all parts of the town ; and the suburbs appeared so extensive, that it was very difficult to form any correct idea of the probable fhture extent of the place. The town was evidentlv joining with its suburbs ; and we were informed that it would include a village or two be- sides. It is placed on the very lofty, steep, and sloping elevation I have mentioned, to which nature has given tbie appeai'ance of a rampart $ so that, when viewed from the river below, it looks like a prodigious, artificial fortifica- tion. Doubtless it might be rendered a place of very great strength, as there are no eminences that could command the wqrks on its weakest side. Small lanterns, dispersed about upon posts, serve to light the town. The streets are very wide, without being paved ; nor is it probable that so neces- sary an improvement will speedily take place. The arsenal, erected by Peter the Great, still remains, although in a ruinous condition. We visited the little, sandy island below the town on which he built his first ship of war, when he projected the conquest of the Black Sea. It is now covered by storehouses, caldrons, and tubs, for the preparation of grease, which is a great article of trade here, and which they send to England and to America in vast quantities. The principal merchant happening to be upon th^ spot, he asked me what the English could possibly do with all the grease he sent to their country. The stench from the bones and horns of animals, slaughtered for the purpose of obtaining grease, made the spot absolutely in- tolerable. It formerly presented a more interesting spec- tacle, when Peter, at once king and carpenter, superintended his works in this place, ite here built himself a little wooden hut, and a small church opposite the arsenal, on the side of the river immediately below the town. Then it was that the greatest monarch in the work! surrounded by a ffew hovels, in a land of savage people, accustomed only to their WORONETZ. iM nfU sadeaiioefly was ieei»^Uy sooAbUiDgwRh his work- jsen on a littk mound of sand, and bailding a ship of war. Iron is one of the principal articles of trade in the town* and occupies the chief business of the shops. They also, ntanalaeture lai^ guantities of cloth for the army ; and have a building lor the preparation of yitrioL Large balls »f chalk or lime are pUed up before their doors, as in Moseowy Tola, and otner places. The eloth factory was ' estiddished by Peter the Great, and is the most considerable in Russia, reter resided here in the year 1705 ; and at the same time he was also engaeed in building f^tersbnreh. In the magazines for grease they employ the cattle of the country, and, boiling them down, make two sorts of fat* The first sort is exported to Euf^and; the second consumed kk Russia, in making soap. Ten poud of the best sort, sells sometimes, in Petersborgh as high as sixty three roubles. The ^nurriage from Wonmotz to Petersburgh costs about eighty copecks per poud. If they contract with English mer^AUts in Petersborgh to the amount of one htmJred thousand r^publes, they receiYC fifty thousand in advance, to enable them to buy cattle. This practice of purchasing cattle to boil into erease has of late years enormously a£ ▼aneed the price of meat. Fourteen years ago, a poud of beef sold in Woronetz for twentr-six copeeks; mutton for thirty ; and now the poud of b^f costs two roubles, and the pMd of mutton sixty cimeeks. In return for the com car- ried annually to Tscherkaskoy and Azof, they bring back raisins, figs, Greek wines, and the wines of the Don Cos- sacks. The salt consumed in Woronetz is supplied from a reniarkable salt lake in the neiglibourhood of Saratof, so impr^ated with it, that fine crystals form on any substance idacea in the water. Sugar is very dear, and all of it brought from Petersburgh. The necessaries of life are, generally speaking, cheap. The carriers of Woronetz go every three years to Tobolsky in Siberia, which is a ren- ^zvous for ail caravans bound to Kiatka, on the frontier of China. From Tobolsky they form one immense caravan to Kiatka. Afterwards, returning to Tobobky, the^ dis- perse, according to their several routes. From Siberia they bring furs ; from Kiatka, Chinese merchandize of all sorts, as tea, raw mannfactured silk, porcelain, and precious stones. The Chinese, upon their arrival at Kiatka, also famish them with the productions of Kamschatka, brought Arom fit. Fetor, aad St. FauL^ Thus laden, many of them ig^ CLARKX'S TRAVBI.S IV RUSSIA. aet.Mtffr Fraoefarft, apd bring b^^ek fnusliuy euabrjiek* silks* tbQ poreelain d* Saxooj^ imd the manufactures of BsHBlaud. Four mfiiiy ^ith their captain, offered to take us by water to Tseherkaskoy for two hundred and fifty roubles ; inelu- d^i^ aneeessary purchase of boats^ anchors, sails, oars, &c« The river is apt to be shallow during summer, and we should have b€«n two months in getting there ; the distance is fifteen hundred yersts. The best wine of the Don is nade upon the river, about three hundred versts before ^.x* rWiim at Tseherkaskoy from Woronetz, Fourteen bottles sell tSere for one rouble and fifty copeeks* They #re apt. to^make U before the grape ripens i and I find this to W' ike ea«e with all wine which exiiibits effervescence. Their white wine is the best when the fruit is suffered to ripen, wkich very rarely bappeiis. Approaching the southern j^art of the einpini) the strong eharacteristicks of the Russian people are less frequently, observed. Happily for th^ traveller, in proportion as bia distance is increased from that which has been erroneously esinsidered the civilized part of the country, he has b^ss to- complain of theft, of fraud, and of dissimulation. In the mere northern province^ he is cautioned to beware of the inhabitaoits of the Ukraine, and the Cossaoks> bv an lu^rui- cipled race of men, with whop the Cossack and the Tartar are degraded in comparison. The chambers of onr. iu were immediately over the town jail ; and it is q«ite on:-, necessary to add of what nation its tenants were composed. The Russian finds it dai^roos to travel in the Ukraine, and along the Don, because be is conscious the inhabitMita of these eonntries know too weH with whom they hove to deak The Cossack, when engaged in war, and remote from his native land, u a robber, because plunder is a part of the military discipline in which he has been educaUd ; but wbeia a stranger enters the district in which he reeides with kin family and eonneiions, and confides his property to their care, no people are found more hospitable, or mo re. honour* able. Concerning the inhabitants of the soon try called Mala^ JRtissio, a French centletnan, who had long resided amoagp them, assured me he osed neither locks lo his doors, nor to his eofifers $ and amoog the Cossacks, as in Sweden, a Uunk may be sent open, for a distance, of five hundred miles, witk^ oat risking the loss of any of its contents. Mr. Rowais, banker of oloscow, was compelled, by the breaking of kU WOROWETZ. l<y mtriiage, to abandon it in the midgt of tfae Def rkory of tho Don Cossaeks : and it was afterwards brought sale to hifn at Ta^nrock, with all its appnrtenanees and contents, by the unsolieited and disinterested labour of that people.* Who would venture to leave a earriase, or even a trunk, although eneased, doubly locked, and directed among the Russians ? From the iivtke we left Tola, a remarkable ehange was risible in the features of the people, which I was unable to explain. The peasants had freqnentlv the strairht yellow hair of the inhabitants of Finland, and the same nght eom- pfezion; neither resembling Russians, Poles nor Cossaeks. At Woronetz, the gypsey tribe was very prevalent 5 and a mixed race, resulting from their intermarriage with Rus- sians. The horrid practice of bnrying persons alive often takes place in Rti9sia,from the ignorance of the inhabitants. Sns- jpiended animation, oeeasioned bv the vapour of their stoves, or aeeidents of- drowning, are always considered lost cases | and the unhappy sufferer is immediately committed to the gt^ve, without any attempt towards recovery. They send only fbr a police <nficer, to note down the cirouoisitanees of Che disaster; and, without] the smaUest effort towards restoring respiration, proceed' with the ceremony of inter- ment. A poor woman, in bathing, during our stay at Woronetz, got out of her depth. She struggled some time with the fttribam, and, being carried by it about three hundred yards^ was taken out by some peasants before she bad either sunk or lost her poBier of motion* When laid on the earth, she groaned and moved ; but the water which had been swal* Kywed, rendered her face black, and she became apparently lifeless. 8he was, therefore, immediately prononneed to be really dead. No endeavour on our part, aeeompanied by persuasion and by offers of money, could indoee the specta- tors to touch the bo^, or suffer any remedy to be attempted for her recovery. They seemed afraid to approach what they considered as a corpse* In vain we explained to them the process by which persons, so circumstanced, are restored to life in 'England. They stood at a distance, crossing them- selves, and shaking their heads $ and in thni maniier tiie * Of this fact I was assured by Mr. Rowan himself, to whom I am in- debted for many instances of politeness and attention during the time I readdd in Moscow. N3 183 CLARKE^S TRAVBX.A JN RUSSIA* l>^or w<HBam W4IS left tt]Hm tbe fik^re, imtil it- woi»M hw» been too late to bave made use of any means f&r her reeev* erj. If she was not afterwards buried alire, her death was certainly owing to a shameful and obstinate negleet of remi^ edieS) whieby in her case, promised eyery prospeel of sneees^; The poliee officer gave in his memoriaii ana her body wm committed to the grave. We left Woronetz on the iSthi^Jun«,ero«siBg the river at the bottom of the town* and enterieg plains as befor^« The swamps which are below Woronets at onee explam the eause of the annual fevers to which its inhabitants ar« liable; and mast exhale, during warm seasons, as nnwhole- some vapours as those which rne from the fens of Italy. There are few finer prospects tlmn that of Woronets^ viewed a few versts from the town, on the road to Paulovsky* Throughout the whole of this country are seen dispersed, over immense plains, mounds of earth covered with & fiite tnrf ; the sepuiehres of the ancient world, common to almoot cvtdry habitable country. If there exists any thing of fdrmer times, which may afford monuments of antediluviaB ma»« ners, it is this mode of burial. They seem to mark th^ ^rqgress of population in the first a«es after the dispeniiiB ^ rising wherever the posterity of Sl^oah came. Whether under the form of a mound in Scandinavia and Russia ; m barrow in England $ a cairn in Wales, Scotland, and Ir^ land ; or of those heaps which the modern Greeks and TurHs call tepe $ or lastly, in the more artificial shi^ of * pyramid in Egypt ; they bad, universally, the same orig^. rhey present the simplest and sublimest nsonument w&ls any generatiim could raise over the bodies of their proseni^ tors ; calculated for almost endless duration, and spewiM a langua^ more impressive than the most studied epita^ upon Parian marble. When beheld in a distant evening liorison, skirted by the rays of the setting sun^ and, as it were, touchine the clouds which hover over them, imagisa^ tioB pictures Ae spirits rf heroes of remoter periods descen« ding to irradiate a warrto«r's ^rave. Some of them roe* la such regular forlns, with so simpie and yet so artifieial • shano, in a plain otherwise pev^Uy Aat ami level, that no dbubt whatever eould be entertained cDnceming them. Others, stiU more ancient, have at last sank into the^earthy and left a hollow place, encircled by a kind of fosse, which «till maiius their pristtae situation. Asain, others, by tho {lassage of the plough anniially upon their aurfiicei ms% WOROVEXZ* id9 been eontiderably dlminifthed. I know no appearanee of antiqiiitj more iole7e»ting than these tumulL We met frequent earavans of the Malo-Riresians, who differ alloc^ether from the inbabitantg of the rest of Russia, Their features are those of the Polonese, or Cossaeks. They are a rouch more noble raee, and stouter and better looking people than the Russians, and superionr to them in every thing that ean exah one set of men above another. They are oieaiierymore industrious, more honest, more gea-r erouii, more polite, more eourageous, more hospitable, more truly pious, and^ of eourse, less superstitioas. Their lan- guid only differs from the Russian, as the dialeet of the meridional proviaees of Franee does from the dialeet spo- ken iwar Paris. They have, in many instances, converted the desolate steppe* into fields of eorn. Their caravana are drawn by oxen, whieh proeeed about thirty versts in a 4ay. Toward evening, they halt in the middle of a plain, near sQam» pool of water $ when their little waeons are all drawn up in oirele, and their eattle are suflereif to graze around ; while the drivers, stretched out upon the smooth turf, take their repose, or enjoy their pipe, after the toil and heat of the day. If they meet a carriage, they all take off their caps and bow. The meanest Russians bow to each other, but never to a stranger. South of Woronetz we found the country perfectly level, and the roads (if a fine turf lawn may be so denominated) the finest, at this season, in the whole world. The turf upon which we travelled was smooth and firm, without ^ stsne or pebble, or even the mark of wheels, and we expor rieneed little or no dust. Nothing could be more delightful than this part <^ our journey. The whole of these immense plaais were enamelled with the greatest variety of flowers lOMginable. The list of plants we collected is much too nu- miarMis for the text.t The earth seemed covered with the * Steppe is the name given in the south of Rusata to those pkuiitvlii«h IboQ^ ca{»able of cnlliTation, hsve never been tiUed, They are covered wilb wild pUoitB ; and •ometinves, perhaps, improperly^, called deserts. t JMr99a0e Sehientri^na^* — Centatirea myriecepJuila — SHpapsnm^ tot^Ceragtam* — Idthrum virgatum — Asclepiaa Vincetoxicum — Delpki^ miMi wi^citfLarkspur 3'^FmaPam)«n»ca. Also th>ft following, weU known m E^and : Salvia pratewds V^e.9i!Sxm Claryl— GnoMoliiiiRdifii* icumr^^Cteramwm mfltrnticum [ Wood" Crane's hillj-g-Geum Urbemum*-r Jk^fO9Qti0 iSbof^VWea r Mouse-ear Scorfiion Orassl — Cucubalus Otites ferowa on Newmarket neath3—'S?i^fn6rium omMtsium (along the banks «r the CtiiA JGrt/ffmum bctrbaria (Ydlow Uo«kel— Bitter Wifttet 140 Clarke's travels in rvssia. richest and most beautiful blossoms, fragrant, aroinatiek, and, in many instances entirely new to the eye of a British trareiier. Even during the heat of the day, refreshing breezes wafted a thousand odours, and all the air was per- fumed. The skylark was in full song ; and various insects, with painted wings, either filled the air, or were seen couched in the blossoms. Advancing nearer to the Dob, turtle doves, as tame as domestick pigeons, flew about our carriage. The pools were filled with wild-fowl ; and dogs, like those of Abruzzo mountains, guarded the numerous herds and flocks which were passing or grazing. Melons of different sorts flourished in the cultivated, though open grounds, near the villages, covering several acres of land. At Celo Usmani we were employed collecting plants. Some were entirely new to our eyes. Others, I believe, are found in England; particularly the EcAitem rufrrum, falsely called Italicum by Gmelin ; which began to flourish about this place, and was afterwards very common. It grows chiefly among corn. The women of the Don, he says, use it as a colour for their cheeks ; as the root, when fresh, jields a beautiful, vermillion tint. The peasants also ex- tract a gum from it. It is engraved in the Journal Hes sa- vans Voyageurs. Gmelin recommended its 'transplanta- tion, and the application of its colouring properties, to ob- jects of more importance. We observed also the Spircea fUpendulaj which is found on the hills near Cambridge, and some varieties of the Centaurea; also the Onosma tchimdes^ Veronica Austriaca^ Pedieularis tuberosa^ and Salvia pratensis. It is from the root of the Onosma^ as we were informed, that the Tartar women obtain their rouge^ Usmani is entirely inhabited by Russians; and whenever that is the ease, towards the south of the empire, a village resembles nothinc more than a number of stacks of straw or dried weeds. The female peasants were seated on the turf before their huts, spinning. Their machines are not quite so simple as those used in many parts of Italy. Thej consisted of wooden combs, placed on a stick driven into the eronnd to contain the flax,^ and not rising higher than the knee; while the left hand managed the spintfie.^ The person at work was therefore compelled to sit during the employment. This manner of Hviiig afforded a striking con- trast to the government that oppresses them ; for we ob- served an air of liberty in these wild and u^e plauiB, which ill agreed with the reflections we had MMr FKOM WOBONBTZ TO PAUL0T8K0T. ^M ga tlie general eoDdition of the pessviU* The leverttj of the winter liere Is hardly reeencileable with the appettr- anee of a eountry abounding in plants whieh are foand iii warm climates. Yet the snow annually afibrds a aledge road the whole-waj from the Gulph of Finland to the loa of Azof. From Celo Usmani we travelled over similar fine plains to Podulo^ Mossovskoy, where we passed the night in iv wretehed village^ whose miserable inhabitants were not even able to strike a light. Nothins eould be more revolt* iog than the sight of the hovels in which they lived, opeft to all the inclemencies of the weather, and destitute of eve* ry comfort and common eonvenienee of life. They wero nii to be settlers from Tver. The next morning, June 13th, we passed the village of Mojocks, and came to Ekortxy, where we baited to tak» some refreshments under a penthouse, upon the baok of • kilntki ^ the heat of the sun being almost insupportable* The people were kind ; and a coarse meal, on that aeoounty, became agreeable. We began to perceive, that the farther we advanced from the common hordes of the Russians, the more politeness and hospitality we should experience; exactly the reverse of that which we had been taught to expect by the inhabitants of Moscow. The deserts^ as they bad described them, instead of proving a bare and sandy waste, presented verdant lawns, covered with herbage, though sometimes dry, and scorched by the rays of a very powerful sun. M^fr Ekortzy we added the V^frbaseum I^UBnicium to onr her&ry ; and between £kortzy and lestakovo, on a high, bleak, chalky soil, we found the rarest plants which oecor« red during our whole route} Drttba Mpina^ and FolifgiUa Sibiriea, Professor Pallas could hardly credit the evi« dense of his senses when ho afterwards saw them among our collection in the Crimea* Near the same spot we alsf» observed that beautiful plant, the Ciem&Hs Jmegrifolid^ exhibiting colours of bine and gold ; with othcars, whieh be- ine less remarkable, are given in the subjoined note.^ The first regular estabfishment of Malo-Russians whieh we saw, ocenrred after leaving lestakovo* It was called Locova Sloboda. The booses were all whitewashed, like many (^ the cottages in Wales ; and this operatioa is per« * Other varieties of Verbascum. — Alysivm incanum, ftnd montanufn^"^ SiUaiti^ 9M»<a^. YsmtieB of Qtf7mu», and Ftcio Catiu^ccfr i^ CLAKKB's TmAVl&LS IN RUSSIA. farmed luinaaily, witk great e&re. Btieh dktingtiUhiiig^ eleanliness appeared within them, that a traveller misht Ikney himself transported, in the course of 'a few miles, from Russia to Holland. Their apartnients,eyen the ceilings and the beams in the roof, are regularly washed. Their ta- bles and benches shine with washing and rnbbing,and remin- ded us of the interiour of cottages in Norway. Their court yard, stables, and out-houses, with every thing belons^ing to them, bespoke industry and neatness. In their little kitiehens, instead of the darkness and smoky hue of the Russians, even the mouths of their stoves were white. Their utensils and domestick vessels were all bright and well polished. They kept poultry, and had plenty of cattle. Their little gardens were filled with fruit trees, which gave an English character to their houses. The third nation with whose dwellings I have compared the cottages of Malo-Russia ; that is to say, having a Welch exterimir, a Norwegian interiour, and the gardens and out- houses of the Enslish peasantiy. They had neat floors ^ and although the roof was thatched, its interiour was wainseotted. There was no where any appearance of dirt or vermin. The inhabitants, in their features, resemble Cossacks, and both these people bear a similitude to the Poles ; being, doubtless, all derived from one common stock. The dress of unmarried women it much the same among the Malo* Russians and the Don Cossacks. They both wear a kebt^ or petticoat, of one piece of cloth fastened round the waist. Sometimes, particularly among more aged females, this petticoat consists of two pieces, like two aprons, failed en before and behind. The necks of the girls are laden with large red beads, falling in several rows over the breast. The fingers, both of men and women, bear rings with glass gems, He. On the forehead of the females, if they wear any thing, is a simple bandeauj or gilded cap $ and from behind hane rows of antique coins, or false pieces sold to them for that purpose, which imitate the ancient coin of their own and of other countries. The hair of unmarried women hangs in a long braid down the back, terminated by a ribband with a knot. Tfieir language is pleasing, and full of diminutives. But the resemblance which these peo- ple bear, in certain circumstances of drees and manners, to the Scotch Highlanders, is very remarkable. The cloth Hetticoat before mentioned, is checkered like the Scotch plaid, and answers to the keU worn in eertain parts of Scot* PAULO VSKOr* 143 land, evea at thli day. They have also, among tlieir musi- eal instraments, the bagpipe and the Jew's-harp ; the former of which, like those ased in North Britain and in Finland, is eommon to the Cossacks as well as the Malo-Russians. Another point of reseoiblanee may be found in the love of spirituous liquors. The Malo-Russians are truly a mernf race, and mueh given to drinking ; hut this habit prevails among all barbarous nations. From hence we proceeded to Paulovskoy, situated upon a high sandy bank, on the eastern side of the Don. It is a small town, and at a distance makef; a pleasing appearance ; but consists of little more than a church, and a few wooden houses remote from eaeh other ; yet, being built in straight rows, their situation gives the appearance of streets to the wide roads which run between them. The river here, broad and rapid|| makes a noble appearance ; and barges, laden with corn, were seen moving with its current towards the sea of Azof. Close to its waters we found a variety of beau- f iful plants. The stiva permatay eelebrated in Russian songs, waved its feathery locks, as in almost all the steppes, xn the branches of the artemisia campestHs^ insects had caused exerescences, which the Tartar nations use to light their pipes. The climbing birth wort [.^risfo^c^ia Clematitis'] a rare British plant, though found at Whittlesford in Cam- brideeshire, and at Stanton in Suffolk, appeared among sontnemwood, the woody nightshade, the water crowfoot, and the fleabane. The rest were all strangers.* On the eastern banks are extensive low woods, hardly rising above thdhead, whieh are so filled with nightingales, that their songs are heard, even in the town, during the whole night. There is, moreover, a sort of toid, or froc, which the era- press Elizabeth caused to be brought to tJie marshes near Moscow. Its croaking is lend and deep-toned, and may almost be termed musical ; filling the air with full, hollow sounds, Tery like the cry of the old English harrier. They are not known in the north of Europe. Their noise is in general so great, as to be heard for miles, joining with, and sometimes overpowering, the sweeter melody of nightiur • Campanula Sibiricar^Bractcephaitm RugHbiam^Onmim aimpH- cisnma — Anthems tinctoria. i44 Clarke's travels in ri^ssia. andbasy elamour, totally in contradietion to the opening ojP Gray's Elegy, and the First Night of Young. Petei* the nrst founded Paulovskoy, and named it in hon- our of St. Paul. It was designed as a frontier town against the Tartars and Turks. At that time the territory of the former extended to Bachmut, on the southern sidfe of the 'Bonetz ; and that of the Turks to the place where now stands the fortress of Dimitri, upon the Don. Its founder had here a botanick garden, as ai Woronetz ; but not a trace remains. The underwood about the plaee^ which in Omelin's time was a forest, and which is daily diminishing^ contains, as well as the steppes around, bears, wolves, foxes, martens, hares, iveasels, ermins, ^nd squirrels. Amon^ the birds,not common elsewhere, may be mentioned the pelican, vast flights of which airrive annually from the iBlack Sea and the Sea of Azof, accompanied by swans, cranes, stor'ks, and geese. They alight at the mouths of the Don,* and proceed ap the river ; and in autumn they return by the same route. The pelicans construct their nests of rushes, and line the interiour with moss, or any soft herb. These nests are found only upon the small iselets of the river, and jplaces where moss may be procured. They lay two white eggs, about the size of those of the stvan, and employ the same time in hatching. If disturbed while sitting, they hide their eggs in the water 5 and take them out afterwards with their bill, when they believe the danger removed. They live altogether upon fish, and consume a prodigious quantity. The Russian naturalists give a curious accent of this bird's mode of fishing, with the assistance of the cormorant. The pelican extends its wings, and troubles the water; while the cormorant, diving to the bottom, drives the fish to the surface ; and the pelican, continuing the motion of its wings, advances towards the shore, where the fish are taken among the shallows. Afterwards^ the cor- morant, without further ceremony, helps himself oat pf the pelican's beak.* The principal trade here carried on is in grease .and fruit; which latter article, particularly the watermelon, is carried to Moscow and Petersburgh. They plant it in the open fields, where it covers whole acres of land. In the steppes near the town, I observed about thirty women hoeing a ^eee of aaencksed ground, for the culttire of this deli- * Journal des tavana Toyageutt, p. 144. FAVLOVSKOY. ifi eloos regelabie. TbiU a plant, which is hardij in perj(««- tion any where, fihould thrive upon the rivers ia this part of Russia, and in such a latitude, is very remarkable. Perhaps its flavour dees not depend upon latitude. At Naples, although so h'^hly, extolled, thcj seldom ripen. In £^pt thej are even averse. Indeed, the only plaee where I have seen the watermelon attain its full colouri, pize, a»d mafurity, is at Jaila, on the eoast of Syria. We found ourselves anions; Russians at Faulovskoy, and narrowly escaped with our lives. Fortunately, the aiarm their eoliduet might have excited, for the safety of our fttture journey, was unheeded. Sleeping in the earrias^e, I wasa%vakened by some person gently opening the doer$ and eould perceive, though it was somewhat dark, a man extending his arm in a menaeing manner. I believed hin to be a Uussian, sustaining his national charaeteristiek by a valedietory theft ; as our time of remaining among thenif''^ was now drawing Co a close. But I was afterwards infor- med, and indeed the man's conduct seemed to prove it that his design was to assassinate. Hoping to seize him by tlie hair, I made a sudden effort; but, eluding my grasp, he escaped ; and although the alarm was immediately given, he eould not then be discovered. Soon after, putting my li^ad out of the carriage to call tlie servant, a large stone thrown with great violence, struck the frame of the window, close to ray head$ sounding so like the report of a pistol, that at first I believed a pistol had been discharged close to me. Upon this a second search was made, and a man in consequence detected, pretending to sleep in one of the kititkis in the court-yard of the inn. The fellow, whether guilty or not, we compelled to mount the barouche box, and to sit there as sentinel, while I made a third attempt to obtain a little repose. Suddenly my companion, who wtvts in the house, came running into the yard, fellowed by tiie servants and all the family, to tell me that the front of the inn was assailed by some persons without, who had poured a shower of stones through the windows, and broken every pane of gluss. Determined to sell our lives as dearly w possible, we drew our sabres and marched together towards therealdeoee of thegovemour,avery worthy man, who iu- stanly rose from his bed, and inslituted an inquiry, which eontinued the whole of the night* At the same time, soldieits were stationed witli the carriage, and the patrol doubled. Towards iiHMPning they hroueht in a yottog jnan, wkma 14^ clause's travels ttt RVSStA. fliey stated to have detected in the act of making his esea|id from the out-housed of our inn ; and it was during his et^ amination that the eause of all this disorder was made known. He proved to be a Inver of one of the girls of the house ; and, as she liad refused to come out when he sent fbr her, his jealousy had persuaded him that hewassHghted on our account. In a fit of despef ate fury, he had, therefore, resolved to wreak his vengeance upon some of the partT,if )iot upon all; in whieh undertaking he had beenatdea bj gome of his comrades. The poor fellow was more ah object of pity than resentment, and wehcgan to intercede for his pardon ; but the governour insisted upon makings an exa^m- pie of him ; and they led him away, snlky, and as it seemed, nothing loth, to be flogged. As he went, he still vowed re- venue ; declaring, that he was not alone in the hnsiness ; for that fifteen of his confederates had made an oath to be **^evenged, not only upon the girl, but npon all her family, for her inconstancy to him. The governour provided us with a powerfhl elcort 5 ami, t?arly in the morning, we continnea our jnurney. The roads have been all changed since Gmelin and other trav- fillers visited this part of Russia. We proceeded froin Faulovskoy to Kazinskoy Chutor, a village ihhahited hj Malo-liussiaus and Russians mingled "together. The distinction between the two people might be made witfaottt the smallest inquiry, from the Ariking contrast between filth and cleanliness. In the stable o^the pbsthouse we found about twenty horses, kept with a degree of order ai»4 neatness which would have done credit to any tiobleman's stud in Britain. The house of the poor superiatendant villager was equally admirable. Every thing appeared criean and deeent. There was no Htter, nor was any thing cut of its place. It was quite a new thing to lis, to hesitKte whether we should clean our boots before walking itito an apartment, on the floor of whieh I would rather have dined than on the table of any Russian prince. This village is situated in the most wild and open sieppeBj among the short herbage of which we noticed the hind tortoise. Its flesh is esteemed a great deHeaey ; as it Is ta the Archipela^ and in all Turkish dties. Boat loads of ibemare carried from the Greek isles to the markets <if <J»nstanti«ople.* After leaviHg Kazinskoy, we passed through several very large villa^s, scattered over valley«, each of which appeared to eoasist rather of several hamlets OOVNTRY Of THE I\Qfg ^Oft&AOM. 147, tli«D of out, oM arri veil at Nizney Mpmeit. N^thine worth observation ^eeurred, except the plants we eolieeted^* The heat was intense :. the eountrj like that before descri* l^« We foond our vinegar, wbieh Ntd been reeommen- 4ed to us at Moscow, to be a pjeasiqg and salutary ingred- kiutia bad water^aud a most delietous solace, when expo- sed to the sehorchiiw rays of the sun, with parched lips^ and mouths full of oust. Jt was impossible to resist the t^uipl^tion of drinkine it without any fidmixture of water ; and to the practice ordoingsoyniay be attributed, perihaps, the weafc state . of health into which I aifterwards fell. We eonsidered it*, at this time, the most valuable part of our bagsa^ ; ami afterwards, in Kuban Tartary, derived from it t^e oi^ly- niea^ of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by the heat of the climate and bad air. The^oCJ^I place we came, to M^as Dobrinka: and here^ for the first t^me, we found an establishment of Cossacks $ althooffh but few appeared, and even these mixed with Maio'KussiapSb The church was new, a larse and hand- some, white building, erected bv the emperour Faul. Oth- ers of the same nature appeare4 inmost of the neighbouring villages. That of Dobrinka makes a conspicuous appeal*- apce several miles before the t^avtUcr reaches it. If hap- piness could be found under the Russian government, it lajghi^basaid to dwell in Qobrlnka; a peaceable and plea- sant, spot, full of neat, little, white cottages, tenanted by a healthy, and apparently contented, society.. They live in the greatest traAquUity, removed from all the spies, tan^galherers, police joffieers, and other despots of the coun- try, Wa were re^ceived into one of the court-yards, which they, all have before their houses, with a hearty welcome, am smiliog countenances, very different from the lowering brows, and contracted, suspicious eyes, to which we had been so often accustomed* At sun-set, all the cows belongs iu§; to, the< inhabitants capiQ, in one large troop, lowing into the village. , No driver was neaessary ; for, as the herd entered,, they, sepacatjed inta parties, and retired of their own accord to their respestive owners, in order to be miiket]. The Malo-Rus^^ns, with their numerous families, were seated on the groupd, in circles before their neat, little hab- • Of th*w, dome are known ini our cetwitry, viz. the TragopogM pr&-^ tM^ or Gimf»>'bekr4f ami PotenHUa apgemeAu Tho»6 more Fare^ are, \kys GlatHoluM imffricaiia^ -wluch is not found even in oor botanick gardens ; Jstragalvfi Onobryefd^, ffeaferia mturonalk; end Campamia'Sibirica^i 'We ofeerredalsQ ik iicw «pe«ie«of jC^A??»>. i4S <DLAlElK«^8 TRAVSIS IK lIUSfStA. xULttons^ efttiBi; tliei« supfwr; and, being all ha|my miT merry together, ofiered a pietiire of caateBtment aaa peaea aot ofttnfxiuud within Russiaii territmrieft«* Ab«ut two in the afternoon of the next day» having been detuiued for want of herse« at Meiselia, we arrived at Ka* tankaia, one of the larfi;est stonitois of the Don Cos^aeica and the first within their territory. Ab I am qow en^eringf vpon the description of a very interesting part of ottr|o<ir- aey, I shall be partienktrly eareftil to note whaierer ebier- rations may occar. Tii^ relate to a coHAtry^ very Ktite Tisited, and, on that aceoiint^ very little known i where (H^ery thing is jnteretting, becasee every thing presents what has not been seen before* The iadependent mode of life of the people ; their indolenee at home $ their aetivity' in war ; their remote sit uat«<Hi with regard ta the rest of Ba- rope ; the rank they bold in the great eeale of aodety j all require eensideration. CHAPTER XIL TEIOttTORY OF THE OON C09BACK9. ^jfp^rance of the (hsiacks at Kasai^aui^^BhwMi of ttg Maman^'Meal Dangers of the Camtrj — Fey«re% W^tAer — Amusements and Da^nces ^ the Peofte^^Sepwrtmre^^ Steppes — River Lazovai — Vi^ t0 a Vamp of €alm»ek» — Of their Brandy distilled fr^m Mare^a Mii^-^FepsmiM Appearance of Calmucks — '^rts^ Ariftour^ and WmponWf — kecreatiojns and Condition of Zifa--l^eaoedbw-«i« . Of the Huroke^ or Marmot^ of ate Steppes-*^ JJ^e ^r^h^ and Suslick — JSTature of Villages nawted in Russian Mt^ -^Stragglers from the Anny^-lHstineHon between Cos* sacks (^the Steppes and ofUie Don — Rkmm^aiti^-^tom Foundries of Lugan — Etymology of the word Tanais*^ Mimerous Camps of Camucks — Approach to Oxai, THERE is something extremely martial, and even iirti-* midating, in the fir^t appearance of a Co^saek. Hie dignified and mi^jestiQk look ; his elevated brows, and dark mustaehes ; his tall helmet of blaek wool, termiaated by a • We ob8erv€4 here « plant "w^h grow« onihe kUIt neitr C*i&l^H<h^^.^ w|he Hethfwrum OmbrjfskU. TBRftrroiir of trb bo» gomsaoks. i4^ eiimson saek, witk iU plame^ laeed festooo, and white eock- m^l bis upright postdre; the ease and elegance of his «ait ; g^re him an air 6f great importanee. We found them IB eonffiderable ntimber at Kasankaia, lounging before their liouseey and eonversing in sueh large parties, that it seemed as if we were entering their eapital. Their dresses were Biieh rteher than any thing we had seen in Russia, although all were unifbrm. Eaeh person's habit consisted of a blue jaeket, edged with gold and lined with »ilk, fastened bv liooks across the chest. Beneath tlie jacket appeared a silk waifiteoat, the lower part of which was concealed bj the sash. Large and long trowsers, either of the same mate- rial as the "jacket, or of white dimity, kept remarkably elean^ were mstened high above (he waist, and covered their hoots. The sabre ts not worn, except on horseback, on a jonmej, or In war. In its place is substituted a switch or eane, with an ivory head, which every Cossack bears in hi» hand, as an appendage of his dress ; being at all times pre- pared to mount his horse at a moment's notice. Their cap' er hamlet is tlie most beautiful part of the eostttoie ; because it is becoming to every set of features. It adds considerably to their heidit ; and gives, with the addition of whiskers^ a military air to the most insis:nificant iigure» They wear their hair short round the head, but not thin upon the crown* It is generally dark, thiek, and auite straight. The cap is covered by a very soft and shining black wool. Borne of them have eiTil and military distinctions of habit ; wearing in time «S peace, instead of the jacket, a long frock without btttttms. The sasli is sometimes yellow, green, or red, thoogh^ generally black ; aod they wear lai^> military gloves. There is no nation in the world more neat with vegard to dressy and^ whether young or old, it seems to be- come them all. A quiet life seems quite unsuited to their disposition. They loiter about, having no employment to interest them ; and passionately fond of war, seem distres- sed by the indolence of peaee."^ • " The territory of the Bon Coasackft, -Pfhikh is almost entlireljr pas- tore land, is divided into stamtzas, or caotons (for many stanitzas now «ODtaijt more than a single village.) To each of these, a certain porlipiv oC land an4 fisbing^ i» aUio^ed by government^ and an annual alloivance olT eor&frozn Yoronetz and the northern provinces, aecordingto the retumeil jiumb^ of Cossacks. They are free from all taxes, even those on salt and distiileriea. The- distribution of land to individuals in each stanitza ts set* ^ted by the inli«l»itAnt» and their ataman. From the ataman an appeai may be made to the chancery at Cireask. The allotment of land, and tfas &iAery whi&b eaob CoaMd^ poasea^es, may? be let outr by him to &rm> oi^ 1^0 dtAftXB's TAAVfitS IK HVSSiA. The atftnift»,or ebmf of the stanUxg^ Hj^raaeteil Hi witk T€ry great re^peet And4^omp1aisaBel^, as a^oa as we arrived^ Notiee at the same time was given to alt the inhabitafita^ not to qoit the town without his knowledge, oalil every thinf]; the travellers might reqi^re was aseertaiaed aad pp^- vided. He begged to eonduet as to quMrters^ as he expre«* sed it : and brought us for that purpose to bis own hoase^ which he gare up entirety to our use. It was pleasantly situated above the Don, with an open, covered arcade, or wooden gallery, in which we breakfasted and dined while we staid. His care of previsions was in the court yard ; -and he made his wife and daughters open it for our use. I had the curiosity to descend into tliis place. It was floor- ed with ice ; upon which I observed sterlet, and other fishee of the Don, with game, and ether luiuriesi The house was perfectly clean and eomfoilable ; so much so, that wc could not resist the pressing invitation made to us «f remaining a short t^e, to study the manners of the Cossacks, in a ^wn nearly as large as their capital. It was amusing to observe the temporary respect they paid the ataman. If he convened any of the inhabitants on business, however trivial, they made their obeisance before him, standing bareheaded, as in the presence of a sovereign $ but the moment the assembly wasr dissolved, he passed un- heetled among them, receiving no other mark of respect than any of the other Cossacks. It is an ofiiee to which die election is annual ; but if an ataman is particularly popular, he may retain his station, by re-election, during many years. I believe this does not often happen. Our host was in his first year, and his predecessors had heen generally changed when the time arrived. We soon per* ceived that the Cossacks were a people characterized by oftcD is 80 : and it is a frequent abuse to insei-t the names of eliildren in the return of Cossacks, to entitle them to seniority in becominj^ offieerft. Formerly, the ataman himself marched at the head of his stamtxa ; now he merely sends tlie required contingent, which is put under officers named by the crown. The Cossack, in consequence of his allowance, may he Mmmoned to seiTe for any term, not exceeding tSkree years^ in any part oi;' the world ; mounted, armed, and clothed, at ms own expe9se,«nd avp- pl}ing any deficiency wiaoh may occur. Food, pay, and camp equifiagei mre furnished by goveruraent Those who have served three years, are not liable, ^r at least are not usually caUed upon, to serve abroad, exeept during particular emergencies. They are employed, however, i& thecvr^ don toong the Caucasus, and iu the duties of the post and polloe. After twenty yuaiV service, they become free from aU emx>kiYm§iit, except the home duties of the police, and assisting the passage of the com barges over <lie shallows of U*e Uon, AfHp twea^^five yews tb«r are etfSrelyfipQe.** TEAAi-rdRir &if tnti doit obsaxcKs. lii great lifelffte^ andanhnafiott ; liUle flisjiofted to industnoiifl oceDpatioii, but fond of amazement, and violent If tlieif SasnoiHi are roused. In their danees, drinking, songs, and i^insion?, Ihey betray great vefiemence. • They havt abandonee of cnccencnt food, and as mneli brandy as they may think proper to drink. It is therefore surprising, that ordkr is iso treil tnalntatned in their stanitzas. Ho^terer indisposed a traveller may be to listen to those fklse alarms which the inhabitants of every country raise in th€ minds of strangers who wish to explore any remote part of thfeir territory-, it is not possible, at all times, to disregard such relations, especially when they eome from persoiis of the highest authority, and who pretend to accurate know- ledge of the faets they pretend to substantiate. In Russia, there was not an individual of aiwrespectahllity with whom we eonversed upon the subject of our journey, who did not l^ndeavonr to oissmade as from the danger of traversing What they termed « the deserts cfthe Don Cossacks /" It end- ed, as such accounts generally do, in misrepresentation and absurdity. Among the Russians, indeed, we were constant- ly exposed to danger ; eiiher from imposition which it was hazardous to detect, or from Intuit it was fearful to resent 5 and fn both casies the consequences affected oar security. The very earliest view of the Cossacks showed ns a brave, generous, and hospitable people. If we questioned them concerning the dangers of the eonntry, we were referred to districts tenanted by wandering Caimtlcks; yet we afler- vrards found no cause of reasonable alarm, even in the very eamps of that sihgtflar race of men. At Paulovskoy, they tftld us the emperour's courier had been stopped with the mail. W€ doubted the fact in the first instance ; and then eonehided, that if the mall had been reallv stolen, the theft u*as eommitted by the Russians, who raised the elamour, and not by the Cossacks, to whotn the robbery had been impnted. In war, the Russians found them a desperate and dangerous enemy; and many a bitter remembrance of ehasttsement and defeat indnees them to vilify a people fyh^m fhey ftar. The Cossacks are justified in acting to- wards the Russians as they have uniformly done; that is to say, in withdrawing, as much as possible, from all com- manlon ivith a raiee of men, whose alisociation might corrupt, but could never advance the interests of their so- ciety. After these remarks it must, nevertheless, be eoa- fessed, thm vrt were compdM it take an eseort nfith^ 19^ OLAIIKB'6 TBAVBLS in RUSSIA. throughout the Cossacjc territory, and to place a ^iiard over our earriage at night; precautions, doubtles?^ oltea calenlated to excite the ridicule of the people among whom we travelled; yet even the Cossa^cs themselves ur^ed their necessity, <^ on account," they said, ^ of the Oal- mueks." One evil consequence, which arises firom attention paid to tales of dan^r, is the habit it occasions of putting false representations even on the most harmless and trivial inei^ dents. . The first night of our residence among the Cossacks we were full of idle fancies. The ataman was intoxicated, and, accompanied by his wife, s^t off into the country, leav<» ing us in possession of his house. As we had heard a violent altercation without doors, and saw the ataman in the corner of the court, frequently whispering to other Cossacks, and pointing to our carriage, the eftect of the silly stories 'w^e had neard be^n to operate, and we imagined some preparatioa Iras making to rob us ; for which purpose it was neeessarjr to get rid oT the ataman and his wife, as they might other* wise be made responsible for our safety. The apprehen* sion of our servants did not diminish the suspicion thus ex* cited, and we concluded the plot more probaUe as we knew they had never before seen an equipage so attended. Since this happened, I have every reason to believe that the good old ataman was only giving directions for our ad- vantage, and, like all intoxicated persons, was mafcinf^aii important eencern of the most trifling business, such as co;*ding and repairing our wheels, and a few other commit* sions we wished to have exeonted. How easy is it for tra- vellers, so circumstanced, to raise an alarm about nothinjg;' make a |*reat stir to defend thenuelves against ideal dao- fer ; oftend those who intended good instead of evil| aad nish, by congratulating themselves upon an escape, whea there was not the slightest reason for an apprehension.! We received a visit, on the evening of our arrival, from the ataman of one of the neighbouring stanitzas, who chanc- ed to be in the place. He represented the voyage down the Don to Tscherehaskoy as very pleasant, but tedious | and that it would require at least a month for its performaiice. The musqnitos also are very troublesome upon the water ; and the voyage is liable to impediments, firom the frequewt shallows of the river. Below the town, which stands on the western bank of the Don, we beheld the river^ augmented i^ it most magni&eent TBAKITOBT or TUB DOJt OOfiftAOKS. iSa i9g Its ^oi|^es» tbr«yi^ a aterile «dviiliy by dwnpt •# ll^^es aiui fiosi'vrs^ fmi an alkiMaitt r^etatif»i^ whieli at* way9 hM^ft aboot its alapit^ sMe^s iNit all befMd i« bare and desolate. I bathed freqoeiitlyy and found tlie tummt Tety T4ipid. Tile, fine itt^tote «»igiit iiero irere aften bronglM; t9 n^e us during nur stay. I preferred oaa of tli^n tolerably »ell$ but, tbey iwve been oilen eneraTod^ andy wer e thts aoi tbe ease^ a yoaiu^ stureean wtlTehrea very good idea of their apyearanee. Asne, large Brii t» also Iwenia this rmr» lilee the breaai in ehape^ hut m^ teualtotbeftt^Ieiia ia?oar^ We had one served np wlileh weighed half a,p0ud [eighteen poands*] The women of ihiai piaee are very beaittifal. The ihoM are sap^bied .%vith.«everai aiiieks of iumry whteh we om nut esneei to Jind f mab aa loaftngar, ribwMity eottty iilk% and aiaer wares of large 4awB&. Bat by imieh the nMit vb^ laeraas artielei weresd^ves. The C^aiaeka eidl this wea-^ pan sabla ; the Poles and Mala-ButsiaiMy mM, We IbuMl tiie bag^pe friqaeatiy ia ase* Tke pappeta aowmaa hi Ca- kkhna, and earned by the isbabi teats af UmkI part of ftsdy oirer all Barivpe^ wei^ ittueh in vogne hare. These eamrisi of liro4»iatl figures saspeodad by ftstring^ one end of whtehr a piper faetenalja his fcnee^ or to «ae of hn Bngeia ; viiiie the otihereaid islieUhy agtsibkt screwed into « tehle or ftaar $ iiad, by die Rioiioa ofihakaee, the figares are wide' to-MO'te im time. TfaeCalahrtans oMMage tneai withgreat dmtertty, tind oftea-eoUeet % erowd in the streets of Lendkft and Plains.' Wesawalse tbeCossaekdmiQe, whieh ntaelk ]>ei«addea the daaee of Ifae^gypues in Hassia, and oar jSagliah hornpipe. Like every oUmt natiimal danee, it hr tieeatioas. As the feaiala reeedes or appreaehes, the auile dander expresses his desire or his dtsappointiDent ; yet so adaptedisthefigvreof the daaee to the small rooms in whMi stMih esenike is ebie% carried on^ that the peHbmi* era hardly stir froni «oiie spot. The whole expression is by ]iltfveme»ts of tti« badyv espeeially of the arots and head^ aeoMOpWEiied by short and siiddea shrieks, and by whistling. The method tiiey eahibked of amving the head from oire sheolderto. the adier, whik tlie hands are held op near the ears, iseoinmon to the danees of all the Tartars^ Ghtnese^ aM even the inhad^aats of the isles in the Paeifiek Oeesfio. In the eirenmeof June ie, we left this hospitable staait- Zi^f crossing the Don on a raftt Jhe people of the house, in whirii iv^^hiidbeeii to eMMforteUf lod§eil, pMitifrdy refttatift to ai»Qiitpaf«eiitlS»r«ll tiie trouUe ws aad g*ivai theiB» N» entreaty eovild prevftilr ofMHi ftiiy one of them toidlow a» fturtker fMiikfiactloD, bj aaj renmneraikMi. ^ dowaeks^'^ ■aid thoyy <^ do not eell their limpitality.''* Tiie^iewof Kagankaiayfram tke soathern /side of tho liver, is ifteryfioe. Its kirMeluireii^withiianioroiis domes^. stands in the «e«teF» To the risht aad left, extend neat and' niuneroas wooden hoaaes. Tne Don ftowa below ;- whiek; forms a fine front, with the busy raft, eonsiantly employed' ia^enreying the eararans aeross the ferry. In ati parts of. the river above Kasankaia, it seons to flow over a bed of* ehalk $ and Us bapk«, gently swellii^ npwards from the water, rise like the South Downs of Snssex ; often diselo*^ stnii; the ehalk, of whieh they consist. I^arther down, andt near, the water's edge, low copses of wood almost alwayat aeaompany its oonrse; but they diminisJi as it draws near-*: er to Tseherefiaski^) the inhabitants of whieh towni deriver all their wood from the Yolea. > As soon as wse left Kasaokaia, we entered the steppes im* iMod earnest; with a view to traverse their whole extent ta» Tseherehaskoy. These are not etiltivated; yet, hiedc: and* desolate as. their appearanee during -winter mast be, they have in sammer Ihe-aspeet of a wild, eontinoed meadow*^ The herbage rises as high as the knee, full of flowers, and exhibiting a most iatere^ing eolleetion of pkmts. No one eolleeU or euts tliis herbage. The soil,: though negleeted^* is vry fiiie* We paesed some oaks, in the first part of oar t journey, whieh had the largest, leaves I ever saw4 Otftt; Cossaek- eseort galloped before 41S with their long laiMseav and were.of i^reat use in elearingthe road of caravans and- in tracing the best traek over which a earriage mi^itexpa*^ ditiottsJy pass. We were pleased id survey ine our iitUe ar« my, all goiu^ full apeed ; hut thought it would avail unlit* tie, if the stories we Imd^ heacd of fefwdttti in the stofsfea. had realijT been true. For ourselves, we were totally an- arnic4, witb^ the .exception af our sabres % and these were under lock and key, in the sword eaa^. We; reiiedf therje>^* fore, solely on our Cessaeks, who seemed ^tiite ^eli^ed with any thing thai promised even the hope^of aakirauob» * *^ I/hoipiUiH6 «8t en uingepar t6at6 Is Petite RoMie ; H %n 6tnM^ ff^qMiy W}'i«efi'«jaiBia8l>^«ckfrire«le la d^penve, f»our mo kiifv "^^'PJL^'^P nowriture,** l^cherer. ^nnalet ^ ia J*etite ^wne, tfAs u p. J03. Paris, 178S. 7«&MTomr or tke dor ooiiAOKs. lit aiid^ pnmd of tlieir mmphymmtij Mmired the plafii9, armed \9ith pt«loi«t ^aMe»^ aiii lajMef f twelve feH ia losgtfa. . T%ilftr^e«rted und liccoiitmly M'e proeeeded thirty verets be^ife o«reaiit^9 aod^ panedh th« irigbt in a spot fVifl of swamps, stinking fbni, and flwddy pdols, near whoso sto^ rntit watots-a noidlwr of«arttr«is had also halted/ The mos- flnritos were iii^f^veat number^ - aad 'T«ry troablesome. Our iossaeks felefil the whole aldit on the damp ^oand, and in tlie:«pe«airy almost aak^/ around our earria^. The steogphero of soek a eotrntry mutt, in sommeis he pestilen- ^l* It reseiohled the Pontine marshes in Italy $ beine f oM of 'feeds, hi^rusfaes, and lall-fla^s^ in whieh was heard the cmffitant elamourof frogs and toads, whose oroaking orer- powered^every other soood* during the nieht« dot in (he morning, Uie ohortis of a great variety of birdo,' with the JinmnMig of ianomeral^ inseets, and the pleasing appear- anee of a flowery^ viUdemess^ gave a liveliness to the ftal and 04^ pros^el?, whiNih ma4e the desett vorv interesting $ and we renewed our journey. The name erf this plaee wa« esdled l^Aoier/ and thereaboiits the river Lazovia has its sMif ee. Worfoilowed' its tardy and atmost stagnant watem tlnPOu^thes^^DTws, toa-^aee named from it, Vertynim iautfnma. On its banks i erileetod the »napi9 nigrm^ nnd tsamMmdns armtisisj oreommon bindweody well known iit Kngland* We ai^erwarde ^bservvd a eam^ of CaimOeks^ not Ikr lj?om tfae^riuik we pursued, lying off in the plain to the right; 'As' we mneh wished to visit that people, it was tlMifght fmtdent to send a part of oar Cossaekieseort befbine^ i&omr to apprise them of oar ineltnatlon, and to ask their p^mtssion. The si^ht of our earriage, and of the patty that was ap^roaehing with it, seemed to throw them into great eoufastoa. Wo observed them mnning backwards and^for^ wards from one tentto another, and moving several of their ^goodsb> Afi' wedrew near on foot, about half a do£en gigan- tiok figures eame towards us, stark naked, exeept a eloth bfliund roand the waist, with greasy, shining, and almost Maefc skins^ and biaek hair braided in a long eue behind; Tlier beean talking very fiist, in so Ibud a tone, and so un- e!Oiid a language, that we were a Iktle' intimidated. I akook hands wiSi the foremost, whieh seemed to paeif^ them, and we were invited to a large tent. Near its entranee hang a quantity of horse flesh, with the limbs of dogs, eats, namrmot^ rats, &e. drymg in '|he son, and quite Uaek. Within t]b« leKtwe feit»fl MHmwmmf ih«mp^ it wfu^4i&^ eult to diftttftg^iftb tkeftextst -a* horrid aad iahiioMUi ivM their appe«raMe, T wq ^f thevi^ covered wi th prv^aee, were loueivg ^aeb ethers and it surprised »«»> thai ^ifif did 99i flieeaiitiiiHe their war)^ or «yea look up as ve Mitei«di Through a t^rated lattiee, in the sidfrdT the teat, we mm soaie yoaofer woiaen peeMMf^ ^ «M«e himdaome Snimnth but truly Calmuek, withlonf, blaek hair haof^gp 19 4hiek braids o» eaeh side of the fo^e, and issleiied at the end irith hits of lead or tin* In Uieir ears they wore shells^ aad large pearls c^ a very irreeular sJiape, .or saeso subslanef math n^Kmblin^ pearl. The old vFomea were eaiiar rtur hatsa* ibsh, tearing It off from large bones whteh ^ey heldtia their hand«. Others, squatted «a the gmuiid, in Ihair teotSf were sinokiag^ with pipes not iwo inehes in length, «M»h after the manner of Laplanders* In .other respeats, thetw4 people, ailhott^ both of enstern origin, and both nooMda tribes, bearlUUe resenbUnee. The auwitteroflNiriiie among the Calmueks is much snperioar to thai of the La^andeM* The teats of the former are better eonsjtnieted, straa^^ ■tare spacious, and eontaia mamr of the huuries ofklos siteh as very warm and very ffood beds, .handsoai^ earpots i^nd mats, donestiek utensils, and materials of %ri^ and soieaee, painting and waiting,* The CaliiMiek isfi giaat» the Laplander a dwarf ; both are filthy in their persons i but the Caltswek more so Ihan perhaps any other naUaa. I am ao4 otherwise authorised in comparing together tribes so rer mote from all eoimexion wiUi each othe^, than by asssirt* ing, from my pwn observation, that both are orieataU aba* raeteriKed by some habits andappeaMMoesin eommon; de? ferriage at ihe same time, all further illastration of Urn sob- ject unXil a more appropriate opportunity. I sliall hftve oeeaaion to speak at large, of the i^planders, in another part of mv travels. Every body has heard of the fcoitmtss, aod.the brfuidy whieh CalsMftcks are said to distil from .the mil^ of mares* The manner of preparing these liquors has been dififorentiy relatdi, and, per liaps, is not always the same. They asiurta us that the brandy was merely distilled from batter^milk ^^he milk whii|h they eolleet over night, is churned, in tbs morning into butter; and the butter-milk is distilled lorer n • These tents are of a circitlar form, with a hole at the top ; th«y »re esnttructed «f caa«ia, and eov&ved with a tbiek felt made of «aA€i*S faur. TBRJtiTORY OF TfiB 1>0N 09SSA0KS. iWT fire mmkt ^vk^ the ikiD^ of tli«ir eattle, partimilarly the dromedlary^ wbkh makes a steady sad clear fire, like peat. ^Htetstlier aeeodnts have been given both of the k(mmisif BStti Uie btandy. II has been usual to confound them, and to eoBsider the k&umi$$ as tlieir appellation for the brandy m obtained. ^ By every information I eoifld i^ain, not only here], but in many other eampd wWeh we afterwards visited, they are different modifieations of the same thin^ aithoush flifbrent liquots ; the koivmss being a kind of sour milk, like Ihat so mneh used by the Laplanders, called pirm^ and whieh has undergone in a certain degree, the vinous fer- mentation ; and the brandy, and ardent spirit obtained from koumii^ by disHllation. in making the koumiss^ they some'* times ^npioy the milk of cows, but never, if mare's milk ean be ha:d ; as the koufhiss iVom the latter yields three ttflies as mneh brandy as that inade from cow's milk. The manner of preparing the koumis9 is, combining one-sixth part 'Of warm water with any given quantity of tinrm mat*e^ milk* To this they further add, as a leaven, a little oM kmimiss^ and agitate the mass till fermentation ensues* To produce the vinous fermentation, artificial heat and lilore agitation is sometimes necessary. This affords what in eallcS kttumiss. A subsequent process of distillation at* te^wards obtains ati ardent spirit from the koumiBS, They ^ve us this last beverage in a wooden bowl, eallinc it vina, hi their own language it bears the very remarkable appei-* lation of rack and racky^ doubtless neartv allied to the names of our East-India spirit, rack and arraek. We brought away a quart bottle of it, and considered it very weak, bad brandy, not unlike the common spirit distilled by the Swjftdes and other northeni nations. Some of their women were busy making it in an adjoining tent. The simplicity of the operation, and of their maehinery, was very cliarae^ teristiek of the antiquity of this ehyniical process. Their still was eonstructed of mud, or very coarse clav ; and for the neek of the retort they emploved a caue. The receiver of the still was entirelv covered oy a coating of wet clay. The brandy had ailready passed over. The woman who had the mana^ment of the distillery, wishing to give us a taste of the spirit, thrust*a stick, with a small tuft of camel's hair at its end, through the external covering of clay t and thus collecting a small quantity of the brandy, she drew out the stick, dropped a portion upon the retort, and waving the instrument above her head, scattered the remaining P tM CLABKB's TRAVBIS IN KUSSU* UqBQt'ia the air. I mImA the niraniag of M» eeMBo»y^ and was answcrec}^ ikat it is a reiigiwi eiwtaai^ ta mve always the fint drop of the bfaad|r which th^ dmm uom tfco re«eiver totheir eod. The stick was thea^tiaieediato tlic reeeiTer a seeoira time ; when more braim|r alherhq; to the camel's hair, she sqaeezei it into the ^mm of har dirty aud^easy hand, and$ having tasted. the Jifiiar, pre* sented it to our lips. The eoyeruig'of their tents consists of neat and well inadQ mats, sn^h as we see hrofl^glit from Indian and also fell^-or coarse woollen cloths. Whenever a CaliBuek marries ha mast hail4 one of these tents, and one for every child be has hy that niarr]fl|i*e. If a husband dies, his widow becomes tho property of hishrother, if the latter chooses to accept of her. The distinction httween mamed and umnarried woni^i. is in their 4air. A married woman wears her hair hvatdo^^ and falling over her sbonMers, on «aeh aide of herv.faso-| but a yirgm has onW a single braid hanging downihamid* die of her back. Their teats were all oif a circular Ibrin4 near which we observed a. party sf thoir chiMsen^ from tha age of five, to fourteeB,^playsngat tlMs Russian game beforo mentioned, with kBnekle4)ones. We deligfated. themi hj makiog a scramble with a few ^opeeks. Tney were auit# naked, and with skins perfectiy black. Further off, a aerd of their dromedaries were ffraasiflis. Of all the inhabitants of the Russian empire, the Cal- mucks are the most distinguished by peculiarity of feature, and manners. In their personal appearance, they are atblettck, and very forbidding. Their hair is coarse and black ; their lanuguage harsh and guttural. They inhabit Thibet, Bncharia, and the countries lying to the north of Persia, India, and China ; but, from their vagrant habits, they may be found in all the southern parts of Rnssia,<evem to the banks of the Dnieper. The Cossacks alone esteem (hem, and intermarry with them** This union sometimes * In opposition to this femark, I find it stated in Mr. Heber'a Journal, that " Calmndi serrants ai-c greatly esteemed all brer Rusi&a, for thcfa^ intelUgenee And fidelity i" and I reeoQeot seeing some of tfiem m tkift capacity among English foiiniUes in Petersburgh. The most remf^rkablc instance ever known of an expatriated Calmuck, was that of an artist em- p^o^-ed by the earl of Elgin, whom I saw (a secjbnd Ankchanis, from the iSaius ot Scythia) esecntSag mart beiiutilful designs lugiQfng the piiM of AtbcAS. Some Russian family had previously sent him to finish liis studies in Rome, where he acquired the liighest perfection in design. He had the peculiar features, and many of the manners^ of the noraade Cabnucks. TXB&fTOXT OF TUB DDK OdSSACXS. <M mvjtoeet w«nen of verjr gfevli beaAt;^ i ftMim^ mIUm Umom bid«iiasthwt%€aliniiek. Hieh^ prmrnaent, anl kraid eliedc4MAei $ very liUk eyes, widdy tepamted from etteb etii«r f a ftxx and bread Hose ; eoaney greasy, jet Ua«& iHfctr; teareely aay 0ye4ir«W8; aad eBormoaar, [^raadneiit earn ; eonfose ao very in^ifehi^ fiortraU. Their womfe^ are uiieoaiiBonljr hardy ; and oa horidbaei: oatgtrip their naie eompanioiis in the raee. The stories MlatedM^ their pkeing pieees of horse-fletfa aader the saddle^ in oilier to^ prepare than Ibr Ibod, are perfectly Mie* They aeknowledged that it wa» a eoannoB praetiee amoBg theiii ea ar joaroeyy aind that a irtei^ so dresse/be^me tender and palaldble. In tteir large eamps, they have always cntlers, and other artifieers in copper, brass, and Iron ; oometlmeo goldsmiths, irho ualEe trtnketsfor thetr wouienr, idal»<if goM and silver, and vossekfor their altars; also persons expert at inlaid woric, oaameliing, and many arto whteh we vainly imagine peenliar to nations in a state of tefinement* One very, remarkable fact, and which I ahonid hesitate in asserting^ifl had not fonnd it eonfrmed h^ the dkervotions of other traveMei^,"* is, that, ih>ra tiin* kamemorieJ, the oriental tribes of Calmueks have poises*^ nedthe art of making gonpowden They hoil the efflore^ neenee of iiitrat «f potaaa in a«trong lie of poplar and birdb ashes, and leave it ta erystalixe; after which they pound the crystals mth two purts of sniphnr, and as much ehar^- eoal ; then, wetting the mixture, they place it in a caldron over a charcoal fire^ until the powder begins to granulate*. The generality c^Calniiicks, when capped ^r war^ pro- tect the head by a helmet of steel, with a gilded erest, to ^hich'i» ixed a net-work of iron rings, falttag over the neck and shoulders, and hangifng as low as the eye-brows tu fVont. They wear opon their body, after the eastern man- net*, a tnsoe of similar work, formed of iron or steel rinss matted tt^ethe]* which adapts itself to iho shape, and yields readily to- all positions of the body; andou^ht, therefore, Father to be called a shirt, than a coat, of mail. The most heantifol of these are manufaotured in Persia, and are val- ued as e^ivalent to fiftv horses. The cheaper sort are made of scales of tin, and sell only for six or eight horses each ; but these are more common among the Chinese, and in the Mogul territory. Their other arm» are lances, bowa * Journal d^tsavfint Voifaffeur$,^A3i^ 160 0I,^R|C£'S TRAVEX.S IN, EII^I^. |LBd4r£ow«,poi|^rd«,i|iid salirea* Tbe ris^fcest4»ly bear fii^ arms whieh fu-e, .therefore^ always r<^arded as a mark f^ distinction, and kept with the utmost eare, ia eiuses made of iadejer's skins. Their most valuable bows are nia4e of the wild goat's horn, or whalebone $ the ordinary sort, of maple, or thin slips of elm or fir^ fastened toother, and bound wi|h a covering of linden QX birch bark* Their amusements are, huntio&t wrestling, archerj,4LBd horseracing. They are .not aiUicted to drunkenness^ though they hold drinking parties, whieb eontinue for half A day at a time, without interruption. IJpon su^h o$ea* j»ions. every one brin^ his share of brandy and JcotmU$j find tlie whole stoek is placed upon the ground, in the opiifi air, the guests forming a eirek, seated around it^ One nf them, squatted by the vessels whieh. contain the liqu^ry performs the office of cup-bearer. The ycmne women plae« themselves by the men, and begin songs, of bve or war, of fabulous adventure, or heroick aohievement. Thus the/e^e is kept up, the guests passing the. cup round, and singii^ tfce whole time, until the stock qf lienor is expended. Dnring^ all this ceremony, no one is seen to rise from the party, nor .does an^ one interrupt the harmony of the assemldiy, by rioC or intoxication. In the long nights of winter, tne. young people of both sexes amuse themselves with musick^ dan- ein*]^, and singing. Their mos^ eommonmusieal in$trumei|t is the balalau:ai or two*stringed. lute; which. is often rep* resented in their paintins^s. These paintings preserve very interesting memorials of the ancient superstition of eastorn nations.; inasmuch as they present |is with objects of pagan worshij) common to the earliest mythology of Egypt and of Greece. The arts of paintine and musiek may be supposed to have continued little liable to alteration among tbeo^, from the remotest period^ of their history. As jor their dances, they consist more in movements of the hands and the arms, than of the feet. In winter they also play at cards, draughts, back^mmop, and chess. Their love of gambling is so great, Uiat they will spend entire nights at play ; and lose, in a single sitting, the whole of what they possess, eveu to the clothes on their body. In fact, it may be said of Calmucks, that the greatest part of their life is spent in amusement. Wretehed ^d revolting as their ap« pearanee is to more eivilised peofde^ they would be indeed miserable, in their own estimation ; if compelled to change their mode of living for ours. Both Gmelin and Pallas TERRIT'ORT 0¥ THE ]>0N COSSACKS. Hi relate, that they deem a resi^eiiee io honses so* insopperta' ble,that to be sliut up in the eonfined air of a close apart- iQeiit, when under tlie necessity of goin» into towns, and making visits of embassy or commerce, was considered by them with a degree of horrour. Amone the diseases to which they are exposed by their diet aiid want of cleanli* uess, may be mentioned the iteh, to which they are very s)abjeet, and malignant fevers, which are very fatal to (hem dtiting the heat of summer. The venereal disease causes great ravages ; but it is said (o prevail chie% in those campd where their princess reside, and not to be ofteu found amon^ the lowei^ orders. They give to this disorder a name very expressive of the estimation in which they hold their mode of life, signifying ^* the house diseased* 'Havin«<^ occasion hereiafter to notice this people again, I shall finly add the observations of one of the celebrated travel- lers before mentioned, who, after considering the privations to which they are exposed, places their situation in a point of view more favouraole, perhaps, than I have done. " For the rest," says he, " to whatever degree of wretchedness the poorest of the Calmacks may be reduced, it is very rare to be- itotd them dejected by sorrow, aud they are never subdued by despair. The generality, notwithstanding a mode of life ivhich appears so adverse to health, attain to a robust and very advanced old age. Their disorders are neither very freqiient, nor very dangerous. Few become gray headed at wty or fifty. Persons from eighty to a hundred years of age are by no means uncommon among them ; aud at that advanced period of fife they still sustain with 8;reat ease the fatigue of horsemanship. A simple arid uiiironn diet 5 1 the free air which thcv uninterruptedly respire r inured, vigorous, and healthy bodies; continual exercise,- ^il'ithout care, without laborious employment; such are the- natural causes of these felkrtous effects.'^ Leaving this encampment, we continued traversing the* steppes in a southwesterly direction, and passed a very neat TilJag;e belonging to a rich Greek, who, to^ our great sur- Jirise, had estabirshed a residence in the midst of these deso- ate plains. As we advanced, we perceived that wherever • Or rather, " derivedfrom thQse.who Hv€ inhowet," • t I am ftt aloM to reeoneile this statement -with tiie reid diet of the C4'' mueks. Can that porperly be deemed simplty vhich connsta-of the grom*" eat ammal food of ali kinds, without adraixture of vegetable diet, without breads or any ol'the fi-uits of the earth f V2 ±M eLARKB^S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA. . rive»iiiterseet the ^^ppes, there are vikli^es, and plenty . of inhabitants. A manuscript map at Tseherehaskey^ eo&- iirmed the truth of this observation. No maps have been hitherto published in Europewhich give an aeeurate notian of the country. A strauger crossing the Cossack territory, might suppose himself in a desert, and yet be in the midst of villages. The road, it is true, does not often diselose them $ but frequently, when we were crossing a river, and believed ourselves in the midst of the most uninhabited country, which might be compared to a boundless meadew, we beheld villages to the right and left of us, concealed, by the depth of the banks of the river, below the level of the Slain $ not a single house or church of which would have sen otherwise discerned.* We were approachiag, in an oblique direction, the Lazovai, now augmented to a eoasi- doable river* As we drew near, its opposite banks rose eonsiderably higher than the usual appearance of the eouii^ try with fine clusters and patches of trees. Before we arrived at Acenovskaia, it was even mountainoas. On its western side, we saw a neat village, called Jemvehaia, pleasingly situated beneath the hills, with a new and hand- some church. Indeed the churches are every where good, and much superiour to what we find in our country villager in Ktigland, both as to architecture and iuteriour decoration. At the top of the mountainous elevation on the western side of the river, stood oue of the largest of those tumuli of .which 1 have before spoken, and which abound all over this country. They become more numerous, and increase in size, nearer to the Don and the sea n£ Azof. Finding the water clear and the current rapid, I took the opportunity of bathing; and recommend the practice to all travallejra, as essential to the preservation of health. From Acenovskaia, we continued our route over steppes apparently destitute of any habitation. Dromedaries were feeding, as if sole tenants of these wide pastures. Mr. Cripps j^ot upon tlie back of one of them, as the animal was kneel- iHg; which immediately rose, and, with a very majestiek pace, bore liim towaids the carriage. Our horses were so * ** Erected, or rather concealed," say* Gibbon, aecnratcly describing tlie CwcUings of their forefathers, " in the depth of forests, on the banks of ri- vers, or tlie edge of morasses, -we may, not perhaps without flattery, c»m- pare .tliein to the architecture of the beaver; which they resembled in a ilouble issue, to tlie land and water, for the escape of the savage inha- bitant, an auimal less cleanly, less diligent, and less social, than that mac- leUous quadruped/* JOteCortf ofthelUman Empire^ chap. xffi. terrtied htiht sigfal,efiat thj^broke tbe ropes, mA we iMd creai diffiealiy in tFaoquiliziiis; them. The dromedary hav* ing^ passed, made oft'into the plaio, with his head erect, pre- pared, no doubt, to ondertake an expedition to very distant regions; when my friend, having satisfied his curiosity, let hims^elf down from his iofty baek, as from the roof of a house, and fell with some violence on the ground ; leavine the dro- medary to prosecute his voluntary journey, which he coa- tinued as farfas our eyes could follow him. innumerable inhamtantsof a smaller race people these immense plains. Among the number of them, is an animal which the natives call surokes the marmot of the Alps. I have seen Savoyards at Paris leading them about for show. They grow here to the size of a large badger ; and so mueh resemble tlie bear in their manner and appearance, that, until we became a^uainted with the true history of the suroke, we considered it as a non-descript animal, and cal- led it ursa minima subterranean Such mistakes are not uncommon in zooloa^. Naturalists frequently add to the nomenclature of animals by superfluous ap|>ellations. A beautiful little quadruped, called j^t^cmk in £gypt, has beea described in other eauntries as a distinct animal, under the various names ofmuajaeulus^ stibterraneous kare^ vatUtii^ rat, leaper, &e. &c. but it is the same creature every where, and bears to the kangaroo the degree of relationship which a lizard has to the crocodile. I shall describe it more mi- natelv hereafter. Our present business is with the 8urdc€f .which is seen in all parts of the stsppesr^ sitting erect, near its burrow, on the slightest alarm, whistling very loud, and observing all around. It makes such extensive, sub- terraneous chambers, that the ground is perforated in alt directions, and the land destroyed wherever the animal is found. Its colour is a grayish brown. It has five fingers upon each of its paws, which very much resemble human liands, and are used after the sam^ manner. The mouth, teeth, and head, are like those of the squirrel ; but the ears are shorter. Its fine eyes are round, full, dark, and bright ; the tail is short; the belly geoerally protuberant and very laree. It devours whatever it finds with the greatest vo- racity ; and remains in a state of torpor half the time of its existence. Many of the peasants keep these creatures tame in their houses. We purenased no less than four, which lived and travelled with us in our carriage, and gaveus an opportunity to study their natural history. They were i%4i OLAtlk&'s T1IAV1SLS tVt 1LV8S1A. ftlwayi playing, or sfefepin^, beneath our feet, to the great an- nojanee of our little pug dog,* who felt mueh insulted by the Ii4>ertie« they took with him. The peasants nnitrersally gave them the name otwaskL They assured me they always lost them in the month of September, and that they did not* make ♦heir re-appearanee until the beginning of April. They either deseended into a birrrow, or concealed themselves in some plaee where they niight remain least liable to ob^r- vation, and there slept during the whole winter. To awaken them, during that season, materially injures iheir health, and sometimes kills them. They are most destnre- tire animals ; for they will gnaw every thing which falls in their way ; as shoes, hooks, wooden planks, and all kinds of roots, fruit, or vegetables. They made sad havoek with the lining of our carriage, which was of leather. Aifr soon as they have done eating, they become so somnolent, as evett to fall asleep in jour hands, in any posture or sitimtieii, or under any circumstances of jolting, noise, or motion. While awake they are very active, and surpass every other animal in the qutckness with which they will bury themselves in the earth. They resemble Guineapigs in making a grunting noise; and whenever surprised, or much pleasra, or in any degree frightened, they utter loud and short squeaks, which have the tone of a person tvhist* ither animals common in the steppes^ are wolves and hears ; also a qtiadruf ed called Hroke^ of a gray colour, some^ thing like a wolf, very ferocious, and daring enough toat* * Hftvloif mentioDed titis- little iuiim«l, it mi^ be ireH to say aorae^iiBg of the importance of its presence with as, for the advantage of other trar velleif. The precaution was first recommended to us by a Polish trayel- fer in Denmark. Any tmaH dog (the more diminathre tbe better, beteause theiBQre portable^, and Kenerally the more petulent) vrili psove a vialoable guardiaDt in countries where the traTeller is liable to attacks from midnight robbers, and especially from pirates by water, as in the Archipelago. They; generally sleep during the day, and sound their ahritl afeirum, tipon w ■uwt di^nt ^»peoaoh of danger, daring the nighu I reoollect ao inntmcs of one, who enabled a party of mariners to steer clear of some ahaUowib by barking at a buoy, which, in the darkness of the night, they had not perceived. The instances in which our little dog was useful, it is neediest to relate. But it nay gratify curiosity to be informed, that> natwally afndd of water, and alway» averse from entering it, he crossed aUthe si vers and lakes of Laplaud, Sweden, and Norway, after his roasters; accompanied tour of the ArchipeiRgo, to Constantii.aple ; and thence, in the same mau- aer, through Bulgaria, and Wallaefaia, to Bucharest. tack a man. The CosBacfc peasanU) vmd wilJi^lieir Uiraes, saUj forth, on horsebaek^tu the ehaee of this animaU It has a long, fu)l tail, which it drags on the ground. From the a£e9uats given of it by the {leasauts^Isusiieeted it to be the sana^ animal deseribed by professor Pallas, as fopnd in the environs of Astrachan, noder the appellation of chak€Uy and whjeh is said to be between a ^volf and a dog ; bat whether it answers to the jackal of Egypt or not, I did not learn. . The most nnmerous^of all the qiiadrupeds of the steppes^ the .whole way from Woronetz to Tscherehaskoy, are the suslicks; by wbieh name they are called throughout the eountry. As you draw near the Don, they absolutely swarm, and may be taken in any number* This iaterest- ipg little animal is supposed to be the nws citillm of Buf- fon; but the deserijition of it will prove whether this be j^ally the e€^e or not. We procured several, one of which we stuffed; but it has not been, properly preserved $ and therefore I prefer making reference to the aotes taken oa the spots r&ther than to any thing eonnected with its pre- sent appearance. It makes a whistling noise, like the «tt- roke; but is mueh smaller^ not being larger than a small wea^zeL It constructs its habitation under ground with incredible quickness ; excavating, first of all, a small, eylr iodrical hole or well, perpendicularly, to the depth of three feet : thence, like a correct mifier, it shoots out a level, al- though rather in an ascending direction^ to prevent being ineommoded^by water., At the extremity of this little gallery, it forms a very spacious chamber, to which, as to a gran- ary, it brings, every morning and evening, all it can eolleet of favourite herbage, of corn, if it can be found, of roots, and other food. Nothing is more amusing than to observe its habits. If any one approaches, it is seen sitting at the en- trance to its little dwelling, erect, upon its hind feet, like the mroke, carefully noticing whatever is going on around it. In the beginning of winter, previous to retiring for the season, it carefully closes up the entrance to its subterra* ueous abode with sand, in order to keep out the snow; as nothing annoys it so mueh as water, whteh is all tha Cal* mueks and Cossacks make use of in taking them ; for the instant that water is poured into their burrows, they run out, and are easily caught. The Calmueks are very fond of thera 5 but I believe they are rarejy eaten by th^ Cos* iH eikltMUsh TEATELt IN EVftSlA. saeks. Their g^relcteftt enemy is the fdeoo, ivho makes a eoBstont breakfast and sapper of sudicks. They have ftom two to ten yoang ones at a time; and it is supposed) from the horde prepared, that the susliek does not sleep, Mke the suroke^ during ivinter. All the upper part of its booj Is of a de^p yellow, spotted with white. Its neck is beauti- fully white ; the breast yellowish, and the bell v a miied eolour of yellow and gray. It has, moreover, a black fore- head, reddish white temple99 and a white ohin. The rest dT its head is of an ash-coloured yellow ; and the ears are remarkabljT small. Ao^ong the feathered tribe in the step- pes^ we noticed, particularly in this part of our journey, birds called staritcki^ or the elders; which are seen in flocks, and held by the people in superstitious veneration* They are about the size of a snipe, with a very elegant form, a brown eolour, and white breast. Such are the observations we made daring the second daj^ of our journey across the steppes. We halted at a place cai* led Suchovskaioy and proeeeaed afterwards to Rossochin'- skaia^ a single hut in the middle of the waste. Yet such are often the villages, not to say towns and cities, which figure in Russian maps. This place consisted of a single dwelling, built of a few pieces of wood, and thatched oy weeds and sedge, carelessly heaped upon it. The surround- ing hovels are out-houses for the post-horses. During sum- mer, its Cossack inhabitants sleep upon the roof, among the thateh. As it grew dark, a tremendous thunder-storm came on, and a very interesting spectacle was disclosed by the vivid flashes of lightning which accompanied it The Cossack guard, as well as the people of, the place, had collected themselves upon different parts of the thatched covering of the huts and novels about it, to pass the night. Everf flash of lightning served to exhibit their martial figures, standing Epright in groups upon the roof of the buiMings, bowing their heads, and crossing themselves, beneath Ihe awful ea- nopy which the sky then presented. All around was deso- late and silent. Perhaps no association could serve to ren- der a scene of devotion more striking. It is customary amone* Cossacks, before they consign themselves to sleep, to make the sign of the cross, facing, respectively, the four Auart^rsofthe^lobe. A similar supersfition, respecting lour cardinal points of worship^ exists among igttorantpeo- TERHITOUT OF THE SON COfttAOKS. iM pie, even in oar own eountry^ I remember, wlien a ehild, being taagiit by an old woman to offer the following* sii^u- lar prayer : " Four comers to ray bed. Four angels over head : Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John» Bless the bed whkh I lay od." A party of Cossaoks arrived as pilgrims, retaming home- wards from the war in Italy. We aflerwards met nnmbersi who had traversed on foot the whole of the immense ter* ritory from the Alps to the Don, and who arrived with scarcely a rag to their backs. They were loud in complaints against their nnprincipled commanders. Some of them had learned a little Italian. They said that the Russian officers stripped them of every thing they had, turned them adrift apon the frontier of Italy, and told them to find their way home on ibo^. One of them assured me he had begged daring the whole jf^mey; and that before he had set out from the army, they had taken away his watch, and even his elothes. We gave them a little brandy ; and the poor people of the hut, brought them a little broth, made with fish and wild herbs. They sat round in a circle, eating all out of one bowl, and, havine ended their sapper, began to sing.-— 80 relative is human oappiness ! We left Rossochinskaia on the eighteenth of Jane. AH the Cossack inhabitants of the steppes, from Rasankia to Tscherchaskoy, have light brown nair, and are a different race from the genuine Cossacks of the capital, aqd those dwelling in stanitzas along the Don. Lieutenant-colonel Papofy a Cossack officer oithe highest merit and talent, of whom I s|iall hereafter speak, told me that the people of tlie steppes were emigrants, of recent date, from roland. It would be tedious to notice upon every occasion, the extraordinary number of tumuli^ which appear during the whole route. I wish the reader only to keep in mina the curious fact of their being every where in view. Close to the post-house at Pichovskaia the first place at which we batted this day, were two of a very remarkable size ; one on eaeh side of the road. The horses here were without shoes, and the road as excellent as it is possible to imagine. It seemed as though we were driving over a continued lawn. Yet stories of danger were renewed ; the lances of our Cos- sack escort were twelve feet in length ; and an unusnal de- 168 Clarke's travels in Russia. gree of caution prevailed among them, as to their means of defenee. They provided themselves with fire-arms, which they said it was now necessary to have, in due order ; and a very sharp look out was made, the Calmu^ks increasing in number as we advanced more into the interipur. We arrived at Kamenskaia^ a stanitza upon the Danaetz, generally written Donetz ; which river we passed on a lioating bridge as tlie post-house was on the opposite side. This town made a great figure, as we descended the valley in which it was situated ; owing to its fine church, and the numerous gardens with which it abounded. The river itself, also, with a broad stream winding among the trees, had a noble appearance. We saw in the streets the same sort of gingerbread for sale which is common to our English fairs, and made in the same forms. The ataman was at his country-seat ; and we were told, that all the principal Cos- sacks had their houses of summer residence in the country. Just before entering the town, a youn^ Calmuck. woman passed us astride, on horseback, laden with raw borse-fiesh, which hung like carrion before her on each side. She was grinning for joy at the treasure she had obtained, wliich we afterwards found to be really carrion. A dead horse lyins in the ditch which surrounds the town, on the land side, liau attracted about thirteen dogs, whom we found greedily devouring what remained ; the Calmuck having contested the prize with them just before, and helped herself to aa much of the mangled carcase as she could earry away« The post-master kept a tame suroke^ as large as a common terrier, perfectly domesticated. This animal, he told us, only remained with him one half of the year ; that it eon* stantly retired for the other, to a hole in the ground, near the house, and there buried itself. Upon the approach of spring, it regularly returned to its patron, resumed its for- mer habits, sitting upright and begging for bread and herbs as before. It would always come to him, during the som- mer, when called by the name of waski; but all the bawl- ing he- could use at the mouth of its burrow, never drew it forth in the winter season. Higher up the Danaetz, where it receives the Lugan, arc the Lugan iron works and cannon foundry, belonging to the crown I which, at the time we travelled in the Cossack ter- ritory, were under the direction of a Mr. Gascoign, a British outlaw, formerly superintendant of the Carron works ia Scotland, whose improvements he betrayed to the Russian TfiBRITORT Of THE ]»OH C6SSACKS« 1G9 MvemtBeflt, and was, aceordinsly, rewarded. From theaee toe emperour's artillery passes by water to the Biack Sea. Hr. Gaseoi^ found rery enceelieat coal at Ln^n ; in eonse« quenee of whieh discovery, as well as its eonvenient sitoa* Uon for water carriage, the foandry was there established* The remarkable appellation of the river at Kamenskaia has, perhaps, already excited the reader's notiee. In our naps it is written Donnez; and in those of Gtermaiiy Bo- netz. I paid the greatest attention to the pronunciation of the people living on different parts of the river, and particu- larly of those Cossack officers thronghoitt the country, who, by their education, were at all capable of determining, with accuracy, the mode of orthography which would best express tile manner in which the word is spoken, and always round it to foe Danaetzy although frequently pronounced as if a T was before the D, Tdanaetz^ or Tanaets. But this is the name, or nearly so, given bv the ancient Greeks to the Don, Tanais ; the reason of which I shall now proceed to explain, and^how, that, in the first instance, when the word Tanais was introduced into their language, it had reference to another river, and not to the Don. The subject is veryjeuri* otts I but it will require a better knowledge of the geogra* phy of the country, and better docaments concerning the course of the rivers, than any map yet published can albrd* I shall, therefore, accompany my observations by a map faithfully copied for that purpose, from the latest surveys deposited in the chancery at Tsehereha»koy. Mad it not been for the jealously of the Russian police, I should have laid before the publick another and more extensive view of the whole territory of the Don Cossacks, calculated to show the ignorance which prevails^ concerning the courses of the rivers, and the general geography of all the country border* Ing on the sea of Asof. It was finished for me, in eonse* quei|ce of an order of the governour of the distriet, by a party of ol&cers belonging to the Cossack army f but some ag^ts of the police, being i^prised of the eircuiiuttancef endeavi>nred to excite suspicion that we were spies, and I was not permitted to profit by the intended liberality. In the first place, then, I must sequest the reader, before be examines that map^ to suppose himself entering the mouth of the Don, and preceding iip the river, to tli^ distance of about ninety nine miles * from its embouchtuxe^ and rather more than forty sixf above the town of Tseher- * One bttodred ukI ivsstj verst«, f Steveoty verst8> - 17^ Clarke's traveis in Russia. eliaskoy. Here he woald find the Danaetx^ fklKneiftl^ the Don bt (wo mouths, separated from eaeh other i>y a distance or ten or twelve miles. Bnt the people haye,' for time immemorial/ entertained a notion that it leaves th6 Don a^ain, before it reaches the sea, and, taking a north* uresteriT direction, falls into the Pains Meeotis, to the'north 6f all the other mouths of fht Don, of which ft is, fn faet, one. This northernmost mouth of the Don, [which he wif! find represented in the annexed map*] on account of the Hre'r, whose ^^aters its channel is supposed peculiarly. t« contain, is called Danaetz^ and to express either its slud^ gish current or its exit into the sea, lyead Danaetx. Tne greeks, steering from the Crimea towards the mouths of ,the Don, and, as their custom was, Iceepins close to the shorc,t entered first this northernmost mouth of the river. It bore then, as it does now, the name of DanaetZj TdanaetZf Tanaets^\ it matters not which; for it requires kieither ingenuity to prove, nor credulity to admit, that from either of these appellations the word l^nats would be derived.^ Even at the present day, the analogy between the words ia so striking, that, in hearing Tartars and Cossacks name this branen of the Don, particularly if uttered with QQick" ness and volubility, it seemed as ouen pronounced TanaXs as Tanaetz. To distinguish this branen of the Don from the Danaetz, properly so called, they add to each an epi- thet; the latter being called the JWf/icrn; Und the for- ' mer the Dead Danaetz. We traversed continued steppes^ from Kamenskaia. Camps of Calmueks were often stationed near the road. We paid visits to several of them ; but obtained little infor-* mation worth adding to what I have before stated of thi« people. In one of them, containing not more than four tents, we found only women, who were busy in distilling brandy from milk. The men were all absent, and, perhaps, * See Fig. 3d. in tite map of ^Ihe Montte sf Ihe Don. t It 18 stiU a mode of navigation in the Black Sea and the sea of Azof* i Observations of a simitar nature may have been suggested to the com* 'pliers of the account of Moscmy, fraUised in HoHand, at the Elzevir preta* m 1630, as appears by the foHowiDg passage : << Eft et alter Tami¥BMiiMr« qui in tiberiensi Ducaiu oriena {unde Dunecz Severski voeatur) m^M AtopJi in Tanaira Magnum deacendit,^* Descrit. Muscovis. p* 8. lu Bst ex. Off. Elrev. 16S0. § The chan|;c from 7) into T, and viee t'er»rf, is one of the most cow- mon modifications to which langaag^ is exposed. TBR&ITORT OV THE DON OOSSAOKg. 171 upon some predatonr exenrsion. The women confirmed what we had been before told concerning the material used ibr distillii^; and said^ that, having made butter, they were distilling the buttermilk fo^ branidy. We eould not eredit that brandy might be »o obtained ; but to prove it, they tap)p^ the still, as upon a former occasion, offering at m tuft of^camers Hair) soaked in brandy^ that we might taste and be convinced. Dnrins the latter part of this day's journey, we ohperved great numbers of dromedaries grazing. We halted fbr bonicfs at Dubwskuia* Immense caravans were passinetowards the Ukraine. The very si^t of their burden is sumeient to prove of what prodigteus importance H would be to inerease the cultivation of tSe sUppeSj where nature only arics to be invited, in order to ponr forth her choicest treasares. We observed trains of from sixty to a liutidredw&S<^ns, laden entlfely with dried jfiah, to feed the ioliabitants of the south of l^ussia, who might be supplied .with better food from the land than from the rivers of the Cossacks. We went on to Grivinskaiaf and there passed the night ; having travelled sixtv eight miles* this day, notwithstand- ing the delays which curiosity had occasioned. On the inoming of Jone the nineteenth^ we eame to T^cbestiAdo^- nui, meeting frequent jparties of Calmucks ; and throu^ Tuslavskaiat to the town of 6br«, upon the Don; a settfe* ment ^Eielongii^ (o the Cossacks of Tocher chashaif. As we drew nearer to the river, the sk^j^pes were entirely alive witii swarms of the beautiful little quadruped before described ander the nameof^us^ic^, some of whiek were entirely white. Approaehing Oxai, Attmeroos oamps of Calmncb appeared in every direction, over all the country round the town. Some of their tents were pitclied close to the place. Others, more distant, covered the lofty eminences above the Bon. 'OaelM&^fedsadiwovsrttt.. CHAFTER Xm. * CMUPTTAL oi TH& IX)N COSSACKS. Jirrivai wi Ocool^PMiek Etf^ff^Reeeption by \ the Btm €999eu:k$^^Fofulaium ^ Uieir Urritorv — Vtetb ef the Doth^Cdebr&Hon of a Cmitt FestvsJU^Modk af Frngting^-Jhrnhg^ between the pon and the JVl^e-^a^ ^ urai Curiosities $md JhtHquiHee^FiskeS'^Eaitraiodijuiru Mpeeiranee of Tsekerchmkour-'InhaMtants and Pumiek Bmlding^^Origin oftkeVossaeke^CoMsesoftheinln- crease-^iwigratuinsm^Foundation of their C^W'^ Circassians Contmeree of T^eherohaskoy — Pgli$hed Manners cf the Peoph'^'-Memarkable Wager-^^wn^ep of the TVnm— JTbtfSfs moved entire — Diseases of the PeppU — Qredc Impostor — Depariurefrom Tscherchaskoy. [ THE nostmaBter of Tuslovskaia met «■ aa ire drew iear to Oxai. He bad, without our knowledge, paMci ag opon the road^and ^veo very absurd notiee t9 the inhibit- ants, that a great general from England was tipon the road to the town* A party of Cossack eavalry^ armed wMh ferj lonff lanees, eame oat to ntpet us^ and^ j«inii|g oar ^s^rti took their station ia the van. The posttnaster, withj his drawn sabre, rode bare-headed by the carriage side^^anti ia this eoDspieoous manner we made our«ntry. As the annual ianadation of the Don had laid, the streets of Tselier- ehaskoy nnder water, its chancery had been remove! this place, and almost all the principal &milie^ wen Oxai. We found the inhabitants waiting our arrival,t the Cossack officers drawn out to witness it The atal of Oxai^eame to us immediatefy 5 and -we to0k care t(^ un- deceive hiiti with regard to our supposed ^eneralsUp*! It seemed to make no aJteration, either in the vespect pai 1 to us, or the welcome '4hey were dispssedto give« £ eiy possible attention and politeness were manifested* Wc ex- pressed an inclination to proceedas Ihr as Tsche9*efaai kor that evening. The atamafr observed the day^ was faifad- vanced; tbiit the current of (he Don, swofa by the innida* tion, was extnemely rapid^aod tiirbuleat $ and that ha ctold \ . 0A?tTi ;» TAE >6H iiroMAexs. i^g not undertake to b responsible Ibr our safetj, if we per- sisted in our determination. He had already provided exeel- lent quarters, in a spaetous and clean apartment, with num- erous windows, a baleony eommanding a view of the Don, and every protection that a host of saints, vir^ns, and bishops, whose pictures covered the walls, could afford us. Their genenil was at his country seat, ten miles from the town.* An express was, therefore, sent to him, for his in* structions concerning our future reception. In the mean time, sentinels were stationed at our carriage, and an officer, with Cossack soldiers, paraded constantly before our door. During the whole time we remained in their country, the same honours were paid to us ; and though we freauently remonstrated against the confinement thus oceastoneo to the youn^ officers, we never went out without findine the senti- nels m waiting, and the officer at his post. The ataman came frequently to offer his services, and the constant endeavour of the people seemed to be, who could show us the greatest degree of kindness. Hearing me complain of the inaccuracy of the Russian maps, they brought from their chancery, without any of those degrading suspicions which had so often insulted us, their own accurate surveys of the country, and allowed me free access at all times to their most authentiek documents. The secretaries of the chancery were ultimately ordered by their general to copy for me a survey of the whole territory bordering on the Do^ and the sea of Azof. That I m^as instigated to accept it by finy other motive than a desire of adding to the publics stock of geographical science, there is no necessity to prove. The procurator! employed by the Russian government^ * « Most of the richer Cossacks hare houses in Cireask [^TseherehaakoyJ ' -which they make their metropolis, hut pass the greater part of their .time ID their farms, on the northern hank of the river. Platof, the atainan> anid he kept there two hundred hrood mares. He had, hoveter, no land in tHIage, though he possessed a Tineyard a little to the east of Axy [Oxai.] Of the wipe produced from these yineyarfls, thej vaunted greatlj. The >est always struck me as mixed with Greek wine, or raisins. The ordlnarr wines are very poor, and tasteless. Sptnta are very ^eap, and mucli , 4nak. Platof hiinself took a glass of hrandy, wHh a spoonful of salt in it, as if the hraiidy was hardly strong enough." ffeber^e MS. JoutnaU f *< The procurtur [procurator] ia a kind of eontroUer„ or visiter, ap* pointed to watch over the execution of the laws ; to examine the deeisicm <ir courts of justice ; visit the prisons; attend executions, &c. He is gen- •raily a native of a different province from that wherein he is stationed. M Circ^ksk, he U c^tva^t a BumMn^ at Uwt not a Qossaal^/' B^ei^% Ms, J^mai, \7^ jPiJMUUl's TSAtB&ft Hi iL<;mA« IioweT^9 A<uif[Bi^t otbervite i it heing ft miixiin in the poliej of that eottiitrjr» that <« to enliehten, is to betray." Thia liberal iatentioii of the hospitable Cossacks wasy therefore^ thwarted ; although bo menace of the Russian police now f rcTeots meft'om nakans an aeknowledgment, which would equally have been offered if I had been enabled to comma-' aieate such interesting and vainable information to the geographers of Europe. It is some consolation that I was allowed to delineate even the different channels of the Don^ at its embouchure $ wfaieh I believe^ will be found a faithful representation. For the rest it may be said, the course of the Don itself is not accurately given in our best maps; and of the other rivers which fklfinto it, not even the names are mentioned. Those stefpts described so desolate, which appear like a vast, georraphieal blank in every atlas, are! filled with inhabitants. Btauitzas are stationed everywhere along the numerous rivers which traverse them ; although the common routci by not following the course of any oi( these rivers, affords no knowledse of the number of th^ people. They contain one hundred stanitzas, or settlemen(S| and two hiioored thousand Cossack inhabitants.* Of ibis number, thirty five thousand are in arms. There are also^ ill the territory of the Don Cossacks, thirty thousand Cal«: mncks ; and of tliese, %lv^ thousand bear arms, as persona who are ready at all times lor actual service. These \^% are not permitted to leave the country, althoueh it is extra- ordinary how persons of their vagrant inclination and habits can be restrained. I have said before, that the Cos- sacks are attached to the Calmncks, and even intermarry with them \ but a Galmoek can never be taught to endure domestick life. If compelled to live within walls, he would . die of the spleen, and betnys evident alarm if there is any prospect of his being shot up in a house. I Bad nevor beh^ aji acre of Asaiatick territory. Tl>a flat and dreary marshes on the opposite side of the Don, af-^ forded for once, therefore, a very interesting prosneet. From oar balcony we had a noble Tiew of the Don, wnich appeared broad and rapid, extending (o these marshes^ ana at a distance, towards tiie east, We beheld Tscherchas- koy, with its numerons spires, rising, as it were, oat of the water. On the £urope%n side we obser? ed .a aeigbboaring * For a farther aeooont of their popnUtion, see the &0(e, e^raetetf from Mr. Heber's MS. Jotimali ia a tutnie^ent page^ vhleh GOitaupa mueh valuable informatJAn. ttpon a lofty eminenee abo^e the mer. Tiie name Oxai is a corraptlon of the Tartar word Aseai, whieh sigvHIes white irafer.* The Don, ia tbit part •! its eoitrte, exhibits two eblonrs. On the side «f Oud it is white, beeanse of the shallows. A similar and Ter^ earions appearanee may be observed from the eastie at Cdbkntv in Oemany, where Ae Moselle falls into the Rhine; and, for some distanee after the junetion of the two rivers, they are seen flowing par- allel to each other, with a distinet and different eoiour peen- Unf to the water of eaeh. In the tfaailows of the I>on, a sort of flag, the ^i^AaiMt^tf^eris, flourishes nuMt luxuriantly. We Ibund the inhabitants of Oxai, and afterwards of Tseher- ehaskoy, devouring this plant raw, with a degree of avidity as though it had been a religious observanee. It was to he seen m all the streets, and in every house, bound into fag- gots, about three feet in length, as we tie up asparagus, Whieh were hawked about, or sold in the shops. The sea* son for eating it had Just eommeneed. Thejr peel off the ointer rind, and find nfuir the root a fender white part of the alent, whieh, for about the length of eighteen incnes, affords a erisp, eoolii^ and very pleasant artiele of fiiod. I have . not aotieed this sort of vegetable diet in any other eountry. ' Vfe eat of it heartily, and were as find oi it as the Cos- aiieks, with whom, voung or old, rieh or poor, his a most ftkvourite repast. The taste is somewhat insipid | but in hot elimates, so eool and pleasant a vegetuble would be every where esteemed. The Cossaek offieers, however, who had been in other eountries, assured us that they Ibnnd this ^nt fit for food only in the AMtrshes of the Don. The morning after our arrival, the general, who is eom- nander in ehief over all the district, ineiuding the town of Tseherehaskoy, the metron^rfis, eane tn Oxai. The day was eelebrated as a festival, in honour of the reeovery of one of the emperour's ehildren flrom the snudl-pox inoeula- tion. Hesent us an invitation to dinner^ and in thefbre- nnon we aeeompanied him, with all the cheers of his staff, to a publick ceremony in the ehnrdi* On entering this bailding^ We were much surprised by^ its internal magnifi- eettce. The screen of the altar was of green and gold^ * Tlie ioHSal of tiiif word is properly a dipthons; comnum in Sweden, nonsistii>s of A, with O pUeed^ above it. Mr. Hnber, (iiet^efbre, writes.it with the A nraplj. .[See former Note] U» •tynu^ogy' maj be fooad ia tke Et9p9U9» or Axop6ti8t of ^uAemj, and before it wM^atpcflded a rmjlug^ OumMkr^ fitbi with tapers of §p:«en was. Tke seteea, like t|ie rest of thi) ehareh, was covered with pi^tareo^ some of whieh werf tolerably well exeeated, and all of them very eurioas, froai their sing^alarity, and the extraordiiiary fi^aro s they, served to represent Here were no seats, as la otiier Rnssian eharenes. The general plaeed himself against a wall oa the riffhi hand facing the sasristy, standing on a step covered with a carpet, and raised aibont fonr inches from the level of the floor. We were directed to place ourselves on his right hand. The rest of the Cossaeks, whether in their military uniform or national domestick habits, stood promiscuously in the bodv of the chnrch. The priest, ia very rich robes, with his back to the people, was elevated on a kind of throne, plaeed beneath the chandelier, and raised three steps from the platform, facing the ereat dooia of the saeristy, which were shut. Over these <&ors was a picture of the virgin ; and before it hung, suspended by a string, two wooden angels, joined back to back, like the figures of Janus, with candles in their hands. Whenever the doors of the saeristy were thrown open, the wooden aa* gels were lowered down into the middle of the entrance^ where they swung round and round, in a most ludrisroas manner. As the ceremony began, the priest, standing on the throne^ loosened a girdle, bound across his brea^ and sbattlder% on which was an embr<Hdered representati<m of the croas* This he held between his fore-fin^r and thumb, repeatii^ the service aloud, and tonchinr his forehead with it, while the people sang responses, ana were busy crossing themr selves. The vocal part of the ceremony was very solemn | and the clear, shrill notes of children placed among tha choristers, which, rising to the dome of the church, seemed to swell and ultimately die away in the air, had a meat pleasant and sublime effect It is the same ia akaest all the Russian ehnrches; and I know net any thing to which I ean more justly compare it, than the sounds produced by aa iBolian harp. The words they use are Russian, and evenr where the same: ^^ Lord have merc^ upon usP^ We dii act find them altefcd even among the Cossacks; it wee still M QkospodipomUm:'' but trilled ** la notes with maoy a wif«dlng bout Of finked iweetaeM long dmwD oat" I •APITAL OF TaB.DO{7 O^kS^^lfrK^. ^77 At last tlMre w«^ av interval af ftUe«e« s after wliiob^ other ▼oiceSf uttering solemn airs, were beard witLin the sacristy. The doors were then thcown open, and a priest, bearing on bis head a silrer ehalaee, eontainloi^-the eonseerated bread, eovered with a white jiapkin, made his appearance. He was preceded by others, who advanced with eensors, scattering* hicense over- the doors of the s^cristj, the pictures, the priestd, the genera], the officers, and the people. After 4bme other eeremoofes, the bread was distributed among (he eongregation ; and those who' eame out of the sacristy having retired, its doors were again closed, and prayers trere recul for all the royaL family ; their names bein^ enu- merated in a tone of votee and manner exactly like that of a corporal or serjeant at a roll-call. Passages were also read iVom the Psalms ; but the method of reading, in all the Russian churches, is ridiculous beyond description. The young priests who officiate, pique themselves upon tk talent of mouthing it over with all possible celerity, so aa to be altogether uiiiBtelligible, even to the Russians; striving to give a whole lewonthe appearance of a single word of numberless syllables. Some notion may be Ibrmed' of their delivery, by hearing the eriers in our courts of jus-, tfee adihinisler the oath to a jury. The dinner given by the general, after this eeremony, served to show, that among Cossacks, as elsewhere, reli- gious abstinence by no means implies any privation as to eating and drinking. We were told to expect meagre diet, and ^ound the tabfo covered with all sorts of fish, with tareens of sterlet soup, with the rieh wines of the Don, and ebpious goblets of deiieions hydromel or mead, flavoured by juices of different fruit I took this opportunity ta Request the genenil's permission to open one of the tumiUi in the neigh oourhood. It was gninted, and an order was ffiv^n fair thirty of the Cossaek soldiers to assist me iu the liiibdat V but afterwards, wheh I had assembled my work* inen, an aliirm was spread, and speedily increased by the libsetvations^ of an' Ignorant physician, that by this raeaos file plag^ie inight lie eonrnonlcii^ed to tlie people; in eoB« lequedce of wSieh- 1 was foveed to aibandoo the undertaking. Beyeral of tfa&'Cos8aeks,uevertheless, assured me thatthej^ had formerly opened several ; .and they aflirmed that they had fonnd in them the bones of men and horses. Some- times, they said, (wliich, if troe^ wouldbe indeed remarka- %le) gun-barre)s are found in. these iMnbs, exhibiting verj^ R 179 CLA&K^'S TRA-VBLS IN RUSSIA. aneieni workm^ship. A Coaaaek officer show4^4 m%-i very extraordinary weapon of this . nature, wliieh he declared huA been discovered in one of the mounds in the $teppe&. Notwithstanding all that may be nr^d concern- ing the knowledge which the Chinese and oriental hordes had of gunpowder prior to its use in Europe, I rather sus- pect such weapons were derived from the inhabitants of Poland, who used them with matchlocks 5 yet the officer I allude to, had no motive for deviating from the truth^l Other things, such as vessels of earthemware, and instru* ments of war, coi^mon to ancient nations, said to have been dus: out of these heaps, are more consistent with probar bility. - In the evenmg of this day we embarked upon the Dqq for Tseherehaskoy, accompanied by lieutenant-eolondl Alexi Gregjoriwitch Papof, to whom we were indebted for instances of hospitality and polite attention, which stran- gers might vainly expect in more enlightened cities of £urope. His education had been liberal, though reeeive4 in the marshes of theDon ; and his accomplishments might have graced the most refined society, although derived from the natives of Tscherchaskoy.* In almost all its charaeterislicks, the Bon bears resem- blance to the Nile. It has the same regular, annual inun- dation, covering a great extent of territory, over which we now passed by water to Tscherchaskoy ; although the land is dry by the'month of July or August. The same aquar tick plants are found in both rivers $ and, in particular, the same tall flags, reeds, and bulrushes, sometimes rising to the height of twenty feet. The manner in which they disembogue themselves into the sea, by a plurality of ent- bouchures^ is again the same, forming several small islands^ as in the Delta, filled with swamps and morasses. Both * Mr. Hebcr> in liis obflerratiUnft on Oxoi, hus a^rded « mostjteuuine tribute to the enlightenec) minds of tbe CosBftcks of the Don, " Taere it here a vei^^ decent kadah, ^vith a billiard-table, and a room adorned mith many trcrman ebEn^Tings; and one English print, that of the death ofche- vatier Bayard. The OoiSaeks, balrHig ttever heard of the ekevaU^ sat» reprochCf t»i\^dJt the death of Darius.. On mj-aaking if Boarhon wm Jitexanaro Micedoiiskt/, they answered, to my surprise, that he was not present at the death of JDarhis, and i^wed thevnelves v«1l dailicd in'hb litstory, whteh 009 wuuld hardly expeet." ffeber^9 MS. Jinmtd. **■ EdncatioD among the Cossacks is not selow as is generally thoQ^ht, «a4 it improves daily. All tlte ehildren of offioers are sent to the aeademy oC Circask, and learn French, German, &c. It was holyday time wlMrft W'e i*aB there ; het their progress wM wel! spcaceA ^.^ /*i CAPITAL OT THE HOtf eOMACKS. iT0 me ftai tfie »tKer wrvt as faottudaries to two prmeipitf qaarterd of the globe. Whco the waters retire, the asto^ nishin^ variety of inseets there engendned might indaee a zealous eittotnolosisllto visit the Don, for that express pur- pose. Fiven at the period of inuodation, when the waters were at the higliest, we observed above thirty different (ciods of flies, at the same instant, upon the tables of oar apartment. Many of these, whieh we eolle'cted, were too mneh injured on our return home, to be well represented. The whole course of the Don, is about six hundred and «ixty-six miles.* It rises near Tula, in a lake ealled the Ivan Oxeroy or 8t. Ji^nh Sea. Below Woronetz, it is from three hondred to six hundred ftitboms broad; and of liaflleient depth, from tlie middle of Apt il to the end of June,ibr ships ni burthen ; bat dartne tlie rest of the year, the water id so low, that on several of the shallows tt is not above a fbot and a half deep.f In the spring floods it rises IVom sixteen to etghteen feet perpendionlar, and the eur*- rent is vtty rapid* The priHcinal rivers generally stated lo fall into it, are the Danaetz, tke Woronetz, the Choper, the MedveditK, and the llavla ^ hut there are others, unno^ tieed hitherto by geographers, not, perhaps, of e^uai ini^ portanee, although entitled to a place tn maps of the coun* t¥y, on aeeonnt of the popolation found upon their shores. About twenty miles below Woronetz, close to the river, near a town ealled Kbstin^oy ^Omelin observed one of those ileposits of elephants' bones, of wliich there exist sueh won- derful remains in Siberia, at the mouths of rivers which fall into the Icy Sea. These bones are described as lying in the greatest disorder; teeth, jaw bones, ribs, vertefiree, not mineralized, nor, as it is eommonly expressed, petrified, but in their natural state, except having suffered a partial de- eompositiott.$ Neither is the Don without antiquities, wor* thy of a more partieular dcsoriptioo than can now be aSorded. A tradition exists in the eeontry, whieh pretend* that Alexander the great passed the Don,' and built a city, or citadel, upon the river, at a place ealled Zimlaskaia^i\^iB bundred miles above the town of Tseherebaskoy, where * Qoe thousand vents. t Lord Whitworth's aecooirt of Russia, p. 120. Straiob. ffill edit. 1758. t TabkKiu ab(p^g.S de J,* Empire de la Bmne, pay JPletchtjekJi p. 23* Moscouy 1796< S Jaurnal des savam T^^/a^eurs, p. 84. ' iSQ CI«A&K£'8 TRJlV£LS. IN RUSSIA.' the best Don wine is now made. Some insigniiieant traew of 9ueh a work are still said to exist. At general Orlof 9 house were twoplain pillars of marble, actually brought from thence. The Cossacks are too little interested in such matters to invent tales of this kind ; and thej woul^ do $0 the less where no inquiry was made to instigate them. The information, such as it is, was ^iren spontaneously : and, . indeed* the circumstances of their tradition are some*-' what corroborated by reference to ancient history. The :sTHAAi or Pillars* of Alexander, were, according to Pto- lemy, in Asiatick Sarmatia, and in the vicinity of the Taaais.t The altars or bpJvIOj of Alexander Mere on the European side of the river4 of which wesball have occa- sion to speak hereafter. We heard, moreover, of coins of Alexander 5 but none were to be seen. Perhaps, among* th0 numerous Greeksg who reside in Tscherchaskoy, both spurious and genuine coins of Alexander may have been found, and thus have given foundation to the report. Of the marble pillars, however, the history is unequivocal $ because geueral Orlof himself, who possessed them, and who gave orders for their removal from ZanUinskaia^ gave me the intelligence. The boats upon the Don present the most ancient form of vessel used for navigation ; that of a canoe, 'scooped out from a single tree, and consisting of one piece of timber, in which they move about with a single paddle. Sometimes, as in the South Seas, they join two of these canoes by transverse planks laid across, and so form a kind of deck, capable of conveying considerable bur- thens* If 1 could form any exact admeasurement by ray eye, I should siate the breadth of the river at Oxai, at this season of the year, to be at least half a mile. The current is rapid, and even turbulent. The fishes caught iu it are much too liumerous to be mentioned 5 as pcrlTaps there is no river in the world which presents a greater variety, or in greatei* perfection. Among the principal are, the belugUf^ the common sturgeon, the sterlet, sudak, trout, Prussian carp, tench, pike, perch, water tortoises, and crawfish of an * Tbe readter^ill pardon my referring him to an account of ^e CarOr bridge marbles, for a more psuticular descriptioQ of the monuipental pil- lar called Stele, v hicli, having been almost always improperly trauslntedy )iBB gfiren rise to much errour in our notions of anciertt histoiy. t'E^vcwo-j tf< aai eu ju& 'Ahj^ti^puj STHAAI. Ptolemeei Georgr. fib, v- p: 364. Edit. Par. 1546. . * . t Ibid. p. 141;. CATtTAV OF TSTK DON COStACKS* 181 <;mmndtt8 size, sonne of which are as iarge ag lobsters. The> last are «an^ht in great abaadanee, by slnkinji^ small nets. About six inches in diameter, baited with pieces of salted fish. They sold at tlie rate of two-pence [English] per hun- dred ; aBo.in some seasons of the year the same number may be bad for hnJtt that sQm. The behiga is the largest eatable fish known. In the kidneys of very old ones are aometimc^ fiMiad calctdi^ as large as a man's* fist. Prof(»sor Palias save »e one, which doctor Tennant analyzed ; and it was ioafld to consist almost wholly of phosphat of li^e. The lower sort of people keep these talcnii as talismaUis, for th& cure of certain disorders. Strahlenfaerg relates, that har saw a heiuga fifty-six feet long, and near eighteen feet fliiek. In the Don they seldom exceed twelve fi^etin length. In ^ape, this fish yerv much resemliles the stur-^ geoti. One of the oldest fishermen upon the Don possessed a secret, by which be was ena1)led to ensnare the largest belugas ; bnthe would commotiicate to no one his valuable discovery. We saw him fishing at a eonsiderable distance fhim our boat, and could distinetty perceive that he plunged eontintially a hoRow cylinder into tlie river, which made a noise under water, like the bursting of an air buh'^ hie, and could be heard from the shore, on each side. The appearance of Tseherehaskoy, as the traveller approaches it on the river, afftirds a most novel spectacle. * Although not so grand as Venice, it somewhat resembler that city. The entrance ishy broad canals, which inter* sect it in all parts. On either side, wooden hinuses built on;* piles, appearto fioaton the water, to which the inhahitants.' pass in boats, or by narrow bridges o»ly two planks wide With posts and rails, forming a causeway to every quarter of the place. As we sailed >n to the town, we beheld the younger part of its inhabitants upon the house tops, sitting ^ eh the ridges of the sloping roofs, w4th their dogs, which were aetualty running idbout and barking in that extraordin* ary situation. On our approach, children leaped from the^ windows and doors, like so many frogs, into the water und m an iastftat, were scimi swimnMng alMut our boat. Every ^ng seemetf tounnonnoe an ampliibions raee : not an incii of dry land was to be seen; .and, in the midst of a very pop- ulous metropolis, at least one half of its citizens were in the water, and tne other in the air. Colonel Papof conducted^ OS to the house of a general^ the principal officer and ata-J ftt CLARKB^S T&ATXIA fM &«tfIA. man of TselK^reliaskoy** Me wnst nerehant a&i ¥erj neh. His lioase, ]ike all those we -eaw afberwardg^ was tiheraeterized by extrenitt eieanliness, and very elei^antlj jparnishecl. On hs walls were French and English prints | ttcnong others, one i^ery f ne engravint; of a. subjeot which I kave always recorded with more than eommen interests It represented RotisseaH in his lost moments^ desiring M» Ibonsekeeper to open the window, that he mij^ht onee n^ercy behold the face of nature. The t^neral havtn«» requetUd that we would aeeept of his serviees while we staid, apoint* ed an oflieer to attend jjs, to provide us with sentinek, and whatever else we might want. I'he town of Tseherchaskoy is divided into eleven staBit* !Kas, and contains fifteen thousand inhabitants. The number 0f jbnuses amounts to three thoBsand : allowing, upon theave^ iUge, ive persons to each. This, from all we conid Jeajra^ Is the true state of the pepnlation. Here are seven ehuri- clies ; four of stone, and three of wood. One of the latter description is for Tartar worship, the Tartars having; « otanitza in Tseherehaskoy peculiar to their own people* Their religion is MohammimaQ, and their church is per*> feetiy plain, exhibiting the utmost simplicity, and entirely destitute of pictures or images, having a little receas, & |>«lpit for tm priest, and a gallery for boys and young men; The elders only enter the lower part, which is covered wiik earpets ; and, as in Turkey, no one is permitted to enter with boots or shoes. Nevertheless, upon this sacred floofy they transact their business ; for we found a Tartar casting; lip his accounts, and writing, squatted with all his eommer>- eial papers about htm. The first ohnreh ereeti^din Tsehereliaskoy was founded by Peter the great, as an insert ptien placed in the waU tnl- 'plies ; but it has suffered frequently from fire, as Indeed hay« all the other ehnrches. It is now of stone, and contains a handsome screen, painted^f a bright green colour, and riehly fiided, as at Oxai. They bum, moreover, green wax-candlet. [1 this church are kept what they call ilieir reffoUa ; applp- ing the term to repiibliean, rather thim to regain ensigns of jdistinetion. These were exhibited for oar inspection^ and **« The internal government of Circatk is exercised, under tbe ataman^ •ituister of police, attd a chancery of four perftona. The police niafi^r^ torn, WB Mleitkn oec^ona, the utasuaii is dis^nguished '^ft^.Uf^. ttaff, witb; a tilTer filigree k«ftd, reaemhliog that of a di-um luajpr." Heber '4 JlifS^ ooasisted ebicfly of presenti from dfleMeiit tovereig^iis^ standards, and emfar«i<iered flags bearint^ tli« imperial arms f poiitiek doirations, servitts^ as meiDc»rials, lest tne Cossaeks m%kt$lorg^t to wbat empire tkey bdoD8:ed. We liere saw kmeesv fashioned after the Asiataek manner, with tofts of fiaeeamel's hair han.i^n^ from the point. Perhaps th« origin of oneh an appotnki^ may be referred to the barbar* •as, periods when oriental nations drank the blood of their enemies. It may be rec^Ueeted that I have already described an instrument of the same form, in use for drink* ittf^ what is darned preeious among the Cal mucks atthii day, who thrust a small lance with a tuft of camel's hair into the stills which contain the spirit they procure from, mare's milk, ami: squeeze the tnft into the palm of their hand, in order to drink what it contains.* With theid lances were preserved also, silver^headed staves for their atamans ^ rich and beautiful roaiMseripts, chiefly eertificateo of the.bra^e conduct of their people in war, sent as testis monialoh'y the sovereigno whom they had served; and a map of tlieir territory, by the hand of the late empreso Cadierine. The standards she presented to them aoe exceedingly costly. Great part of their regalia was bume4 in one of the terrible ccmflaffrattons to which their town bus been ei posed $ and amorv^ the thin^ then loot, were somt wesents from Peter the threat. There still remained one 9f ilk gifts, very charaeteristick of that eitraonlioary man. jftmonf^ the rich staves of ebony, silver-headed and maf^ni* lieently adorned, which different soverei^s have sent t# tbeoi^ to be boni by their atanmn, appeared one without aqy other ornament than what nati^re had bestowed npon it. Of this ihey^ wore more proud than of all tlie rest* It was like the club we see nsuauy represented with the tisnre of Uer- oules, of plain, unadorned woo^, thoneh covered with sturdy knots, and calculated for the hands (tf a giant. In the samp church was also suspended Ike singular picture of ^ The Virgin with the BleecHng Cke^ ^ but with a remarkable addHiontothe usual rep/esentaitioo. Below the. figure qf the vicgin, a hand appeared painited of the natural uxe^i^ if cutdS* and fastened to the picture: a knife , also waa jilaeed by the hand : and they related, that a priest struck at a nicture of the virgin, and wounded her in the cbeel^ TrJbictt ever ^uiinued to Ueed ; but immediately as the Uc^v^ • See p. 158 of tbu work* - - i9# •LA&XK's travels Uf RUSSIA. was iMid«» the batid of tlie priest eame off, and, Witk tbe knife, remained afterwards Miheriii^ to the ptoture. There is another stone ehurek in Tseherekaskoy, whiek saffisred more recently from fire. About fonr years ago, the inhabitants undertook its reparation, and ereeted a screen of ^reot ma&^ifieenee, whien, if not eqnaf to any thing* of the kind in fltussia, is certainly an astonishing piece of woik:* ■lansbip for this part of the world. It is butft in the Ore* •Ian taste, and consists of fonrteen Corinthian columns, co- vered entirely with burnished goM. There are besides, similar pilasters, with paintings in a more modern style^ and more pleasing than the stm appearance usuidly exhtbi-^ ted by the pictures in Russian churches. Almost all Ihe other publick edifices in Ts^erehaskoy are of wood. They are as follow : * i. The Chancery, in whieh the administration of justice^ and all other pnblicic business is corried on. This buildit^ eotofains their papers, records, and other documents. One mom in it is appropriated to their assembly for publick dabates, which much resembles onr house of commons. It contained the empereur's portrait, which was more like him than any we bad seen. When a general assembly is con- ▼ened,it consists of a president, with all the generals,eolonel6, and staff officers ; who hold councils, not merely of war, but of all aifikirs relating to the publick welfare. 2. Another court of justice, called Bclavesnesut, which signifies << Justice by wordJ^ — The assemblies here answer to our quarter sess^ions. Parties who have any disagreement mieet, with their witnesses, and state their grievances. Each receives a hearing, and afterwards justice is decided. 8. Their publick Academy, in which their youth receive instruction in geometry, meehanieks, physicks, gevigraphy, history, arithmetick, &c. &c. 4. The Apotfbe«aries' Hall. 5. The Town Hall of the eleven stabitxas into which thcf^ town is divided. 6. 8ix Prisons, four of whicli are for males and two for l^ales. — ^The prisoners are suffered to go about in their chains, for the purpose of begging.' The shops here are very numerous, and kep^ clii^fiy hy Greeks. Tlieseeontain the produceof Turkey and Greece; as *pearls, cloth, shawls, tobacco, fruit, fce. There are also two publick baths; and each stanitza has its respective tavern for liquors^ brandy, wine, &c. and its traitwr^ or CfAPtTAI. OF THS DON G999A0t$* iM eiH)k^s shop for TTBlaals. Every Saturday eveoina^ a t^t* monj takes plaee in all the churches^ whieh is ealled <^ The ^nedictianpfhread.^^ Upou saeh oeeasious^ five white loaves are placed io the middle of the eJiurch, as sjmbols of those with whieh Christ fed the muHitude; and the peo- ple pr&J^ that, as with five loaves he fed five thousaad, he would oondeseend to g^aat asufiieieneT of corn ia the coau- try for the bread of its inhahitaiits, and bless it for their use. I do not know wheoee the notion was derived, that the Cossacks are of Polish oris^in^ but it lias become prevaient^ and a seasonable opportunity now ofiers to show that it is foumied in errour. The Cossacks have been known as a disdnet people, near ^io^ hundred years. According* to Constantine Porphyrogenetes, their name has continued unaltered sinee the time in which he wrote. It is found in the appellation of a tribe near Mount Caucasus. '' And beyond the Papagian country," says he,* " is the country eaJIed Casachia; but beyond the Casachs^ a^e the summits of Caucasus." It is impossible to obtain more striking information^ Our countryman, Jonas Han way, calls the Don Cossacks " a species of Tartars.^t Storch, who has written fully and learnedly on the subject, although he admits the resemblance which they bear to Tartars, in their mode of life, constitution, and features, insists that they are of Russian ori^in.| Scherer, who has appropriated a work entirely to the investigation of their history, and continually inculcates the. notion of thoir Polish ori&;in, neverthe* less, opens his work with an extract of a different nature $ but it has all the air of a fable.§ It is t^ken from Nestor's Russian Annals. A Russian prince, and a Cossack chief, at the head of their respective armies, agree to determine their differences by a wrestling match, whieh ends in the assassination of the Cossack by the Russian. This event • Ka] eivaOty tw'c Jletrof))^ X^t^^ ^'^^^^ ^^"' *Jt:*§* * htyofAhm KA2AX1A, uf- «d«7/c^c KAlEAXlAJ. c^n vaL Xa.u»ii<rkt f <riv. ConstMitiiiUB de Admrnistrad. Tin per. in fin. Cap- 42. 133. Lu^d. Bat. 1611. f Han way's TraTelSjToI. I. p. 97. , t TaWeau Historiqne et Statistique de I'Empirc de Ruaaie ; par Storch . Edij;. l<Yansai8e» torn. I. p. 55. See particularly p. 24 oJ'the Notes of that vohime. J Tlwy are often • described as a 1)ranch of Poles, who migrated in modem times to the marshes of the Don. Tlie observations of ScUerer •onceming their lang^nage alio, strength* ns the notion of their Polish ori- gin. *< La langu^ den Comgues Mt vn dialectedela PoUntite^ comme celle-ci I'ett de VKsdavon.^^ Annates d« la Petite ^u^ie^ piir S'therer, tom.I.p. 17. Paris, 178«. is fallowed by Uie siil^ittgiaion of the Cosaaek torntory.* - To have seen tUem, and to faave lived with tliein» is suffieient to. establish a eonvietion that they have sothiug in eominott with the Russians, exeept tlie language they now speak» and which, probably, was intivdneed when (Jiey heeamo converted to the Russian ehureh. Let us pay some atten- tion, at least, to what they say of themselves* Those of the Don relate, that a party of Cossacks heing engsi^d in their usual occupatioii of bunting, near the range oif Mount Caucasus^ met a number of people, with whom they weno strangers, going towainls the east ; and Jiaving enquired wha jlliey were, the strangers anaw«red, that they were emigranin from Poland, who mA fled the oppressions of their nobloo» imd were proceeding to Persia, to join iho troops of that oeimtry against the Turks. The Coseaeks told them they might spare themselves the tfouble of so long a march ki order to oommit hostilities upon the Turks, and p«rsttada4 them to return with them to the Iowa of Tselierehaskoy» wkere they woiUd find an asykimt and whenee, in «onoert with them, they might attack the fortress of Azof. Assisted by this reenforcemeot, and with only fonr pteees of eananii^ which was all the at tillery they possessed at that time,tbay made the attaek upon Azof, which fell into the hands of the combined forces. From th^ eircumstAAces of this mmsbp' ctation, which first enabled the Cossacks to make a fignn among the nations at war with Turkey, might have oeeA derived the erroneous notion of their having migrated fraai Poland. The Cossacks of the Don, according to tlieaeconal which the best instructed among tliem give of their own people (and tliey are much better qualified to write a hi%*^ tory than any of the Russian aeadonHcmas) are a mistun of vl^ious nations, principally of Cireassiaus, Maio-Rns* sians, ^d Russians, but also of Tartars, Poles, Gceeks, Turks, CaJmucks, and Armenians. In the town of Tseher* chaskoy alone, and in the same street, may be seen all these different people at once, and oaoh in the habit peculiar to his nation. A considerable proportion c^- the infaahitants have ever bpen jreiugees, escaped from Turkey, Qreeee, or other countries, to this plae^ Coneerning the first esta- blishment of their town, they relate, that il; was founded by rcfu^s from Greece, to whom the people of Azof deniea admission, and ^lio,'itt Coiiseqtiettce, proceeding farther rfp • Selisrer. TaUeau de la Petite Rossie, torn. I. p* 9. tke rir«tvi»t*ie t^Miit Mifciid; on' wMeli thtj made theh* set' ^t&He^tf givine^to it a nsme demed fmnt the people npoif urbMe fhiatier It wa^ dttHated, and with whom thej after- wlwdfr inftcrn^Yed. The name t)f the town, although pro- MfWMed Tseherthirsky, is wriUen ' Tseherehaskoy, whieh im^^l^^TbemiM village 1^1^ I%e/berc^V pronoimeed tfenerall^r l%eterdli?«S) or, as we write It, Otrcamans: iSdi^ or JKb^, in Ihe TaHar language, signifies a ^ma^ vl^- btge p and is^ thevefbre, oftcsi tne terminatiitg syllable in liio names ol^ ptaees in thut eofintry ; as Kkxin»koyj Mm^ M/eskofj and Ml^kkop Thns^ from ti' small settlement nf rovcffs, angmented prineipaily by intercourse with the netghbenrii^ Oireassia^^ has sinee aeeomulated, like « vatft aiMitaig«,MheimflMnse horde ofthe Cossaeks. Befbre tlie'fniddte of' the tenth eentnry, they had already reached thte f router of Foktnd, and began an tnt^reoorse with tht^ people ^tha« eooatry, whieh was often attended with nn a^i^ttswtaftiit^tt of their Itorde by the settlement of Polish offi^fnmta lamong them. Their mt notable armament is said CslHMre'hc^iiiii tlie7tar94d,* wheft the Greek einperout empleyed them as snereeiaries in his war against the Turks. Frontfaeir addrem tit arehery, their netghboors had given tbent the name ^ Choxmrs and Chaxurs^ nnder whieh l^terimeUation ^ey are frequently mentioned by €on<^ steitino Povphyrogfeintes, and their eonntry eailed CHaxa^ i«t««t Tho week empereur, f^ the services they rendered; srattheaii^ vith:asstiitanees of pr«>teetion, and reeommenda^ lory letters, to the Polinh sovereign, reqnestins that, iit i^ure^ their* appellatii^n might be Cossatks^ and not Ofro* 9mvt4 ' As t#the origin of that name, «iime will have it t«b be dtrsred fram « Tartar word, signify ine m armed man ;9 otbsis^'fvam the sort of sabre they use ; ethers, from a w%rd wfaMis%Kfie»a Moe^t; others again pretend, that thef F^as exiled them ComrcAts, from a word in their iangtiage wfcinh linf^ies a goat, beeaiise they formerly wore the skins' of that animid. Scherer olyeeting to this last deviation, aahstiUites another still more frivotoas, and maintains it to have been taken frrai JCossttj a small promontory.^ in this • Sehet^r. t*al>lean de la Petite Ruasie» torn I. p. 67. . t See <SbiMt..Piotphen>g6netes, Cap. 10, 13/13, dS, let. . ^'Scfaerer. Tableau 4e la Petite Ausne, tool. L{». 71. § Stor«^. TsiMea« de la Roiflie, toia. I. p. $S. V Seberer. ibid. ]f,^. IM •LARKS'S TaAVBtS llf AVMIA. "mid pursuit efetTiRol6«|»]^vI mt^tlitso s^nitvtlMit Os^ereK^ ijft Spaiiisb, sigroifies preeisety the sort of eoat they wear, answering to the Eng^lish word Cassock,* did not Peyssmi* ael mueh more rationally, and, as -it appears to ne, ineoo^ testabl J, ascertain the oric*in of the appellation.f ^ The ^laad of the OAaawifes," says he, "formed part of that cou^ry whieh is now denominated Circassia, properly soealkd. Itt this district of Chaxakia, according to my opinioB, we ought to seek the origin of the Cossacks of the present day." The observation is aetnally confirmed by the fitets I hare already related, and by the note from CoBstftiftine given in p. 185 : although so general became the migratioiii of this people, that their tribes are now found from Iha banks of the Dneiper to the remotest con^nes of Siberia. Aecordingto their different emigrations and settlements, th^y are at prescfnt distinguished by the various^ names of Malo-Russian Cossacks, Don Cossaeks, Cossacks of the Black Sea, of the Volga, of Orebenskoy, of Orenbooi^, of the Ural Alps, and of Siberia; where they have reoetvcd yet other appellations, and extend even to the mountains of China, and the eastern Ocettii. It is necessary to confine Ottr attention to the principal hive, whenee, with little -^x* eeption, ail these swarms proceeded. Nothing has contributed more to augment the eolouy of Don Cossacks, than the freedom they enjoy. Surrounded by systems of slavery, they offer the singular speetaele of an increasing repttblick ; like a nucleus, putting forth its roots and ramifications to'ali parts of an immense, despotiek empire, whieh considers it a wise policy to promote their increase, and to guaranty their privileges. As they detest the Russians, a day may arrive, when, conscious of their dwn importance, they will make their masters srorc fully sensible of their power.f A sage regulation in their military eonstitution, from a very ^arly period, inditeed them to grant all the privilleges they enjoy tosneh of their pris- • Letters conceraing the Spanish Nation, hy the Rer. E. Clarke, my father, p. 338. f Observations Histonques^ &c. sur Ics Peuples Barbares, par Peyssoiui^ p.l2S. Paris, 1765. t After slightly nptieUig their moat impoirtant revoats under Basin waA Boalavin, towaixls the end of the seventeenth, and in the beginning of t^c eighteenth century, Storch observes,.** Z'6«fM>(?d!^ cet rebtlaofu eit atsex inUresaante pour occuper. un.de n/OM M^toriena modernti*^* Ste pagp «6 of the Notes to Stowh's Tableau de la Ru99if» torn. L C^PITAJi OV THE J»<M!f CO&SACKS. i80 naemof imU'as.ebosetoseitle amoagthem. Tbns^fjrfuit tU^ jHiecesswhiob has attended their ineurgions, their numbers ^ve rapidly iDereased. In the y^ar 1^79, they made their appearance, for the firM: time in the Russian armies.* . la 4734^ their first ooionies were established upon the Vols^iu fAk^^i the same time, aoother colony marched towards the Terek, and settled there. Towards the middle of the ]ast ^fntury, a deta>ehmeut fiii^ed their residence along tJve bunk:^ of the Samara, the Ui, and the Ural, as far as the Kirgisiaa fronyti^r. But by much the most powerful colony, whieh has niigirated from tlie original hive, is that established upon liie . «hores of the Caspian, at the mouth of the Ural river, whieb lelii; the Don in the beginning of the fifteenth century, and has since heeu augmented by subseqaent emigrations from the parjfnt stock. This .branch of the Don Cossacks. Joined in the rebellion under Fusatchef. In order to annihilate ihe mem^y of their revolt, the Ruaisian government chaiir ged their name (which had hitherto been Cossa.eks of the Jaik) a« well as the name of their capital, and pf the river upon .wliich thay resided.! The most remarkable branch of the Don Cossacks is that which has bcicn established in Siberia. They beg^nt* march towards the east in the sixteenth century. A troop of between six and seven thousand of them, under the eon- 4luet of their ataman, Jermak, peenetrated into Permia, and ^ade the discoverj of the country to which we commonly apply the appellation of Siberia. 'J'heir adventures, and ^liQi^e of their chief, might lay the foundation of a very inter- esting Romance ; hut we may despair of seeing it constitute a portion of history. They had gained the heights of tha Ural Alps^ when the appearace of vast deserts, tenaated hy an unknown and savage people, somewliat intimidated the epterprisins clan. Jermak, full of zeal, harangues his little ftrmy. They descend the mountains; defeat and ilfiyp hefore them a host of Tartars ; pursue their conquests even to the Tobol, the Irtysch, and the Ob $ and terminate their surprising march by the subjugation of all the tribes dwelling between the Ural and Altaiek chain. Unable, from the losses they had sustained, and the obstaelesthey liad yet to surmount, to maintain possession of such extensive terri- tory, tiiey were eompelled to humble themselves before the Russians. In 1581 Jermak made the cession of bis coa- qtiests, by formal capitulation, to the tsar Joan, who, in eon- * Storch, torn. I. p. 68. 8 f I^W- P«7 ^ MtrsoMtnary 4UeBt« mid emm^** Thiit i^is iSUiem iidd^ to 4lie «»teimv«i |io«iM9Ml«iif . oC Rmgi*, •fa.j •f€«9ftMk of the Don, whose «fibieveiiiei|tt >wer^ 4Mi^ letf . i^c^unK Am IIm bMoted ,^etprit« of Ato»liderybg<iiWMie^ ti^f d^ve WMted biitomQl (o relate t heni^ «-.!<- . l fa»re e^irriod tbe history of the Bm CooiMiM*.lNiek (tf Iho ymi$A itt "irmeh diey first fof mod an e(it»Wi(ibiiont.ojio» Uio bftii. . Tbo tfoaodoUon t^ TaoherQhfMd»7f,ft'«ili itaif '4Hf« MQo«iit$ is- altribtttod U 4be aetiliog' o£*Oonio^fOltro«% ^ibaUf exiles from Creeee* The sharoo. 9i^ tlM^otOr Of jAsoT) «iMl<of iho Blaek^ea, worO) in v«fj easi^ iigsi»iAi>r j|ffieKteil9a»4iiiore reeeotl^ New HoUtiid, te&MNMi*lo«ir. ahfe fi^Mbi sovit thither inavy of Aear issUosi, w4 4|» IMotom HM tootiBited mm^Bf^ the Hononsi^ •• iiyfrwHif 4ile fiftsMioiefit of Ovid. The opiniiMm thtiofOM^ of tfi^ G«iOooho9^>leoiriHii9 iho fonndoiion of^TocfctidbofllBoj^lh )oot orttboot ooyporty oveB-in oaeieiit hiilorjr* «*Witli mgifli iothei»owii^feiii»jos« DotioQ, tJwiiois.O¥0ry^re«flAii 1^ .^enasidof it, for Aio mMt {Hurt, Cirtaoiia»$ and m omsiiy the Aonlogy vhli Poles o« RmMOHs, ins^aod^f hmdiBs im I* >i«d«ee their atipii Iron tbeoi, should r%iimi^pMt w to the ilemiKm sitook^ whenoo the $^voliiMH*the PdBshy <ito ^rusiioiMi, theM<ioeo<ntish, Bobeoiion^ ond TiMMylroniiii twoplo nmi' loogiiage veM*seTer»Uy •dbrifod. All iiie 4«ioif Bi hislotfMUMi Md fjsogtfcyhefs oonfmLtho trisdi «f lihoir Biaroh from MedHk^ 4hrottch Ihe ftttiitSs of Msmit ClHieooiiaftowordstlioTttiioiBi^Mroradthe^iasiBe. ThoU* Arst eobiiios wor9 ooiM Sarmatiam^ and the %orlitdt ^areoonl of |hot peo^ is gtven in Herodotus, orho pkriAi Hheai between MwML V^xitmu aad tho Tiuino^ The defie of Coueosiis boo beesi ootebmlioditt oil «^;eo» ofl^rbig J3t^ mIv pussofie Ihrotia^ tlml othoTwite ioipeiiettttble bath *mf* It berolbeapfiKlotioi^of the Py lab ^SkUMmrtwaif from the Sarhatab, who first piuised throng it : Bab. 'heiiig only the eastern mark of deseent; os BARMAotAf 8armatae $ that is Co.soy» ^* Progeny «(f tibe .M$4es4*' * Storcht toBi. 1. p. 76. f Herodot Ub.' it. e. 1 17/ t ZAFMATAl, XATPOMATAI, MAIOTAI, were the tame people. Mm BMlmty' uUl the dbtennideiii of my Mrental sneestor» tn w vdilMe iMateitiitioii od tlie ** CmuieoJi&n »/ the tiomartt Saxm, imaHngfrn cM*^ p.4T. U^^nryfgnMa%omAaiMm^ciimtt»ni0 eeim^lrdeed tesiaO- ^gpimj mMtmti «» irlKMswaik I most lofer (herM«ra Bot oirif ^kwrtAik OF TRB »oir ooUAam$ iti « BMiMiitfileohM,'* •Itertei the t^rtraiA Mtttrtfittdui llie Mftfjgitty ^ wbt kaew D«dii«^«f Ihe ettaMl#gT^ tMerte theAket: tpeftking of tlie^ei^MriiiektM <if the 8«vthiaiM, ht iftjw^ tlnl one «Mie out of Medkh Bettled »poo tlie banksnC the Tfttait, and 'tv^i'e ealled iSiaRcroiiuite.*'' The droMilailft of f Nt» present day* •f ¥rhoi»I «hatl eaaa ipeak, are a horde of baaJitti^ who inbiriiil preeiselY there- in wheaeethe Goesaefc^ ongtnally deteeiided. Caiftiiia- Mf imelM fhMn their aaelent boiffidarj, The 'faaal* aiii late Mie«tii, aad tttttaiatelj driren he^md the Kahaa' aiii me Tetak, tfiey han^, ag it were, upon the narlhfnti eideaaf Caytaat) ar ea«vy en their predatory ineareiaat fhMn th^ aumaif y.jitaitte ae Ita ftet, abere two hundred milee'fhMa "fiiiheMfeatfhay. Theyv^ well at the Tartar* of Kohaa, aft>4far<ala«r with the.Oaesaeics. They af aaded la liahiYiNMt «iith tiiem at the and of the^ lest TaiWiii #«r | eeeaeioa offer^, they seize the nefeaae^af tKii ^ ana aai— g ' Ceteeaiii» ara^r etraai^ere who may be Ihaad aaM«g thaai^ awt aeli then far ela^ee ta «ha J^ersinM. Their aMMiier af #ahtiygy ae ^hseerihed: ta aie byHhe fkni Ceeiaeki, i^ t% hMathfluMefarat ia therlane reide^ar ;;nM/(^*«ar«hBa's iaiaK v>nm i» the waeerv aiimthey*reeottiiditraUha eiihgUk li their adnsmMiy. If > Are ar sii araiedCoeefleks a{»faei^ ihey teaMun ia atfbaeh f it only tm^ &t three,, they allaak HffiB by tarpriie'f hat even then they wilt ran away if the eassaeks have tf ahe te ire. If Hi^torared la tbdr eaneeal- meht^ and ^tenagated' wha tlHrf are^eheyiAetolM^ theltf telae* ikmids* 8ama'af thantf wai« wkh the eaaemlfrieanere at <hU9 whew we werathere. Tha €ogtaekt> artd M the laha- hitaate ofiha Asiatiek eeaete af the Blank Sea, eall the .€lifa§8iiaae 2Mlere^teess, and 1fhdkm^Ae9ti,ii'ftinberpfoef nf whht i have before eaid af thef elymelogy ofthe wolti Tfldftreheahoy, wiiioh utifi^ht, peH&aps, be more ao^irel^ly writttti 7MH!99tim^lKPif<, hak 1 Itere adopted the ^flh9^1»hy .famanaeaded by ittbe»t'inairaiedinhahitaaU;t If it ^^^^ tQr,89inAjof ,tTie auOiocitles here notie^^ bat. »1«q foe th* moat, inip^rtaiit ioiorliitibpn eolfeeted by any aathor,' respeo^ng the oviginAl inliubitatits of tWeemibieibord^iilQ^t^nvtfie BT^d^Beai «riaof tMr iR#eroD(tfl6e ^fth. the pe9ple of Ancient Greece. ,»,,•-* . , • . * * Diod. Sic iib. 155. Ed. WeUtein. ... ' •-.*...'.-.,*'••;»• ' • . ' '' . nUg (Ujpt^MB W hf 9fli* tA)?Fa^^ IsaiDi^ttattf^ tWiMPotiunfiatioa. In vprjlt ^rminatkfVk o4 the^fme pfk bas^otbofm alHe^a^eqed W ».aa ii tj^e 4^(AmpJe ot >daB^'Fb««^ tbe dip^oi^ is pr«ipQii^ed ai ia tbe'%#«k «» M^ uterefore^ cannoi b<i cxpreMed by ^» or bj agi' *il:l eLARKR's nAV&L& IN ,«.VJ5SIA. fteees«ftrj to make any addition to^wbat I har.e alraadir writ*' ten, eoTieerning the relation they bear to the Cossacks anj tber inhabitants of the TJkraino, many Qurious dircumstaDr tes mi^^ht be alleged ; such, for example, as the mode of aeooiuiting money, which is the same among the Halo-Rus* si'ans^and Circassians. There are.no%v Malo-Russians Jiving in the Caucasian moantains. The Circassians^ more- over, left their name, in the appellation of a town built upon the Dnieper. : • • ii * ^* ^ * The commerce of the Cossacks, and other fnhahttlrnts of Tscherehaskoy, is yery various. The principal artlcJe«> of their exports are fish, Iron, caviare, atfid a Httfe wtnc 5- aft though, generaljyj they consume all their wine. 'It rcsem* Hes Burgundy, and is between Burgundy and Champagne^ effervescing Vidlently ^ antf when it has aisquiped a certain age, it sells in Tscherehaskoy at a price eqtiiviclenf to tffrefe 9»&il lings and sixpence the bottle*. They have both red and white. If they won Id suffer their grapes to ripen^ and knaw the best art of preparing, it would certainly surpass all tb% wines ef the world ; so rich and generous are the grap^ii from which It is expressed.* The (Cossacks use little or tt# tobacco, and live to a very* advanced age. Tlie merchants %f the place, when it is their turn, go to war like the rest,'arid have their rank iu the army.f In ifoct, there are few generals * *-* The Don vrme is sometimeff very pleasant, but it is, I suspect, a labricatkHd. I tasted some that was warranted genuine, whieh I could easily* Ibcfieve to be so ; it iras, indeedi ' * As iriokeddew as Syoorax «<mld brufth t With raven's feather Ci-om unwholesome fien^' *^ ffeber'a MS, Jwmal, .' t " The jfovernment of the armies of the Don differs, in many resiiecli, iJMHn the auoient Malo-Rusaians, and has lately sufferetl repeHti^f encroacl^- fxients. Their territor)^ which is almost entirely pasture land, is divided into stanitzas, or cantons; for many stanitzas now contain mor<^ than a Angle yili^ge. To each of th^se, a ceitain portion of land and fishery is allotted by government, and an annual allowance of corn from Voroijelz, and northwards, accoi-ding to the returned number of Cofesacks. T*lie y are frAs •/rom all taxes ; even from those of salt and distilleries. The dislrihuttdn ^>f the land to the individuals in each stnnitza is settled by the inhabitants ^1^ their ataman. This ataman was clioseu hy the people, and Avas both vvil and militaiy commander of the place. Paril had laid some restrictions ♦f>n this r^ht, which I could not •understand.' He had alsq ennobled the !4»hildren of all who had the military rank of colonel, which was'com plained ^f a8intr(^ucin|;an unconstitutional aristocracy. ' Fi*om these aUimans, l(n 'l^peallies to the chancery at Circa'sk. They used to elect their atnmaii .tiierc, and to appeal to him only;' assembling, oc'casionally, as a check* jn his conduct ; but he is notff appointed bifthe cro-wn,"sit\A greatly dimiiiiihed in power. The allotment of land andfisheryj Whicli each Co^ssck pok- •esses, may b6 \€i out Ifjf hi* tO'jGftrm", andbftwntBTso; prit^iti^ frequent- CAnTAt OV THX SOM OOS8ACKS. M •r €oI<Hiel89 ill the army of the Don Cossaeks, who are aot nerehaoftf. In Tseherchaskoj they li^e an amicable antf pleasant life. Sometimes they hare pubiiek amuBoments,^ toeh as balls, and parties of pleasure. Once they had a theatre, but it was prohibited. In some of their apart* ments we observed mah»|;any book-eases, with glass doors, eontatning a small library. They are, in every respeet, tfwif tv insevt tbe names oTchildren in the return orCosiacln» to entitia ^em tft Ibeir aenioncy in beeomiof^ offiecrs I met vith a child thus frvoured. This has taken place tince the Cossacks, vhen called out, hare Veen formed into regular regiments, which has depressed entirdy the Mwer of the ^hqpe ataman hy the introductiou of colonels, captains, Sec» Jrormeritr, the ataman himself marched at the head of his stanitza, Nov lie jnerelf sends the re4|Qired eootisgeBt, which is put under oflieersBamed hy the erown. •* The Cossack, itt ooose<|oenee of his alloiranee, wmy he auHad on tx» MV«efor any term not exceeding three years^ in any part of the voiid, laounted, armed, and clothed, at l^s own expense, and raidLing good any ' ^efieien^es which may occur. Food, pay, and camp equipage, are far* tiished by' government. Those who Kaye served Uiree years are not liafalo •rat'leastiiot usoaUy caUed upon, to serve ahread> except on particular emergencies. They serve, however, in the cordon along the Caucasus, and in Uie duties of the post and police. After twenty years, they become free fVora all service, except the home duties of police, and assisting in the pa»> sage of the corn barks over the riiallowa in the Dbn. After twenty-five irears* seriiee, they are free entirely. <* The procurator declared the whole number of Cossacks, liahle to he Mlled on for one or other of these services, amounted to 200^000. He acknowledged, that as they would idlow of no examination into their nam- tiers, he spoke only from conjecture, and fram the diflfereat allommees oT fovn, kc. occasionally made. The whole number of male population he reckoned at half a million. The situation of a Cossack is considered s* •omfortsbte ; and their obligations to service are deemed well repaid by their privileges and their freedom. * Free a# a C—meU^ is a proverb we oftea heard in Russia. The number of Cossack guards, who are all Dor^ tA> araounta to three regimenU of 1000 each. The number employed tn Persia and Caucasus I could not learn. In the year 1805, a corps oT aeventy-two regiments, of 560 men each,, marched under Pkto^ the aitiK man Qt Circask ; but he received counter ordei*s, as it did not arrive ia Time forthe battle of Austerlitr. At AuaterlitZj onfy wix hundred Co9^ 9ack8 vere fresetiL The peasants near Ansterlitx spoke of them as ob* jcets Qf considerable apprehension to the French cavaifjr r particularly the ouirantei-s, whose horses were more unwieldy. These Cossacks, Platat sai^, had suffered dreadfully^ as they were for some time the only cavahy isith the Riiasian army, and; before ^e emperour joined Kutusof, had lost, almost aa their (uirsea witk fatigue* During the quarrel of PMl wiHi JRtt^Iaiid, he aiserohled 45,000 Cossacks, as it was belieyed; at Circask, H^ march t9 Ituia. I saw the phm waa not at aO unpopuhu* wath Flataf aatf >is oflbera. Platof ^s jnedeoessor was the Ust aUman who was hi posses jion of all his ancient privileges. He ImmI often, by hia own Mthortt)^ hound men hand and fooL and thrown them into the ten. He wasunoiC ^ectediy seized and earned oflTby the orders of the empress (OMiMriiie> md succeeded, asgenend of the armies of the Don, by Maffcl fvanovitcS WatoC a fine, eiva ohl loldisr, inth the graitcflfte of tBt Amse.*— f04? 'Clarke's travels in Russia. entitled to praise for their cleanliness, whether of theif persons or their houses. There is no nation (I will not even except my own) more cleanly in their apparel thaw fhe Co!Hsaeks. The dress of their women is sins^ular. it differs from all the costume of Russia; and its magnificence is vested in the ornaments of a cap, somewhat resembling the mitre of a Greek bishop. The hair of married \romcn' IS tucked under this cap, which is covered with pearls and gold, or adorned with flowers. The dress of a Co^saelt girl is elegant; a silk tunick, with trowsers fastened by a girdle of solid silver, yellow boots, and an Indian handker- chief ronnd the head. A proof of their riches was afforded la the instance of the mistress' of the house where \vt lodged. This woman walked about the apartments with- out shoes or stockings ; and being asked for serae needles to secure the insects we had collectefl, opened a box, in which she showed us pearls to the value of ten thousand roubles. Her cupboard, at the same time, was filled with plate and costly porcelain. The common dress of the men m Tscherehasitoy was a blue jacket, with a waistcoat and trowsers of white dimity ; the latter so white and spotless, that they seemed always new. The tattered state of a tra- veller's wardrobe but ill fitted us to do credit to onr country in this respect. I never saw a Cossack in a dirty suit of clothes. Their hands, moreover, are always clean ; their hair free from vermin ; their teeth white 5 and their skia lias a healthy and cleanly appearance. Polished in their »nanners, instructed in their minds, hospitable, generous, disinterested in their hearts, humane and tender to the .poor, good husbands, good fathers, good wives, good jnotbers, virtuous daughters, valiant and dutiful sons ; such are the natives of Tseherehascoy. In conversation, the Cossack is a gentleman; for be is well informed, free from prejudice, open, sincere, and upright. Place him by the 'side of a Russian, — what aconstrastl* The one is lite* * " The, manners of tl^e people struck us, from their superiority to l^e Russians, in honesty an<t dignity. A lieutenant at Petersburgh, who CMfice begged alnas from us, bowed hiiuself to the ground, and knocked bis itead on the floor. A lieutenant, here [|T«chercha»koy"| who M'as in^iri- AoneU, and also begged, made the request in a manly and dignified manner, and thanked us as if we had been his comrades. " Both men and women ai'e handsome, and taller than the Moscovitet. This name they hold in groat contempt, as we had several opportunities Of observing. The procurator, the physician, the apothecary, the master <*f the academy, being distinguishettr by their dress and nation from the Cossacks, and seemed to have formed a cotet^ of their owa, and to diriilbe> CAPITAL OF THE ]>ON GOSSACKg. 195 rally d^two-leg8:ecl pi&^^ havine: all the brutality, but more knavery^ tliaii that animal :* the other, a rational, accooi- pltwhed, and valuable member of society. I would not be understood to have made this observation as without eseeption on either side. The Russian women are entirely excepted; and it is very remarkable, that little of the lamentable eharaeteristielcs of the Russian people ean be applied to them. It is only in proportion as they recede from their natural effeminacy^ that any traits have ap« peared to assimilate- them to the males of their eonntry $ and an instance or two of this kind may have been men* tioned : but, speaking generally of them« they have this only fault, if it b^j not rather a misfortune, that of servility to the worst of slaves. Perhaps an anecdote which I shall now relate may render the pceceding contrast between the Cossacks and Russians and to be disiiked by, the whole fown. The postmaster said they were much improved since h^ came there ; that then they would ^ have pelted any stranger. We saw nothing of this kind, except that, when we firtt landed, mistaking us for Etissians^ some boys cried out * J^foskoffsky Canaille /' — Canaille has become a naturalized'word in Russia." ^oerjs. ■ •At the time of making this extract from my Journal, our Englialii p9P<i'r8 are fiUed with the atrocities committed, not merely by their com- «Qon soldiers, but by their general officers in Finland. An account of them is published by the lord-liedtenant of the county of Wasa, to which Ills respectable nanre is afKxed . Posterity may there be informed what Russians were in the beginning of the present oeptiuyi when a major-gene- .ral Demidof gave up the town of AVasa^ during five days, to plunder, merely because he could not retain its possession ; and, assisted by another monster iti a human fortii, the governour Emine, galloped through the streets, ta gi\ie vigour ami activity to. a scene of murder, horrible cruelty, and devas- 5ation; crying out tp his troops, Dnhra ! JDobraf (Bravo! Bravo!) a» they were bayonetting the weeping and kneeling inhabitants, mothers witli their infants aged and venerable men, ladies of distinction, children, teoA persons of whatever sex, age, or situation. * It instructs the world,* .observes tbe lord-lieutenant, * to describe their conduct; inasmuch as it deter- mines the national character ; and determines, with historick truth, that with harbarian slaves the character remains unchanged, notitrithstanding « the varnish put on by a sorted' external humaoising> produced by intei^ coui-se with civiUzed nations.' In the parish of Nerpis, major-general OHof Deneaof, caused tliree of the peasants to be bound together; and this being-done, to prolong the pain and agony of the poor sufferers, the Rus- sians pi«reed their thighs, arms, belly, and other parts, with bayonets, before they killed tliem. : Injured iohahitants of Swedish Fiidand ! One who has experienced the bounties of your hospitality ; one who armed among you weary^ sick, and destitute, aad tOr whorn^ eoesistentiy with tovu national chabactbb, you administesed the most disinterested aid ; the stranger, to whose honour you c<m&dcd^ unaoli<}itedj tbe means of aceomplishhig his pilgriciage, be sympathizes with you in yoat suffityinfji* He, too^ has been exposed- lb bftibarum rapacity ; he, too, has been plundertid by the Russians. viore ftrikiiiff. The tnifli of it, on aeeoiittt of iUnotorietf* will not lie &pttted bj either party« Whenever a qnarrei among the Cossaekt eautes them fo eombat eaeh odieff they fight, as in England, with their fiste, and never with knivei,. damerft, or any thatp initrnment This paetiee is so estabushed a eharaeteristtek of their people, that it gave rise to a very remarkable wager, Teplof and Gelagin two of the late empress Catherine's privy-eoonsellors, hap- pened to be in her presence, when it was told her that a Cossack priest, then a monk in the convent of 8t Alex- ander Nevski, had been arrested for cutting the throat of a Tottog woman, whom he had made pregnant, and with whom ne had qoarrelled; upon whieb Teplof offered to wager with Oelagin that the monk was not a Cossack* The bet was nade,. and won by Teplof; the monk proving to be Rassian. Being questioned how he could possibly divine the probable success of his wager: << because,'' said he, <^ no Cossack would strike a woman: if he did, he would use his hand, and not his knife.'' It was on a Sunday evening, that lieutenant-colonel Papof conducted roe o^er the whole of Tscherchaskoy. We walked a distance equal to four miles without once being off a bridge. The people were all in their best attire, an^ the tight, on that account, more interesting. From the higki and narrow bridges, single planks frequently lead oflf^ aa theonlv mode of approaching the houses of the inhabitants^ which have covered galleries around them. In these galle- ries, where the deal, of which they were constmcted, waa as white as water and the sun could make it, sat the eld andt respectable Cossacks^ almost all of whom, as we pnsse^ pressed ns to walk ipto their houses and regale jmrseives^ The water flows beneath manv of the buildings ; and all of ttiem are upon piles, in the midst of the flood.* The prodi- * " Girodt 8tsad« on anae SMMliy kHmAw m tbe wkwvn The hm»t» eve all nk^ oo voodea pillan, and cOnoested hj foot brid^ Thefoo** liKths run kike gtdleriei before the hooaes When we saw it, every part vas flooded, except tbe principal itreet, tbe great chsrob, and the market ateee. Tbe aatigne wooden criibia» miaed witb tbe domeaof ehurehev |0p» of treef»aiid Calmuek tenia, bad aa jstarettbigeffeet, juat naing froaa ^e water. The nidak itiU aoatinae to poiaon the air ; oat tbe bowea^ aotwitbitandfakg tbe people are al^ fisbera, ave neat. Tbe Coasaebs arc MBOb okaaer than tbe Boaaiana. Tbara ia a apaaioiia and ancient natbe- diraly nearly oa tlie aame pbia, aa tbe Caaan abnreb in Moaee. Detaebed fauna the rest of the baildiugt a a laife tmvnv, whieb. at a diatanae, given II faint reeolleetieM of St. M a^jr'a vfin at Oalbrd. TImm are many other ahMBhpa» fntt ef way aoatly orw— arts> 1 aavcr asw aa niaii^ paurla tt eAPlT^L.OF. THE ]}0N aoyAGKf. i^7 IpioitaqiMii^tify of timber consamed in the town, for Iiousesy e^cusewajSy and brid^s^ is brought from the Volga, the Don being hiadeqiu^te to sueh'a supply. Formerly they had walls to their aquaticK settlement ; but the iouudations of the river have swept them eutireJy away. The principal part of the inhabitants are exceedingly desirous to remove tlieir capital to Oxai, which would iuerease its commerce, and. add to its importance : the rest, who, from attachment to the plac^ of their nativity, are still anxious to pre&erve it in its original. situation, propose to surround h attain with walls^' aiifl to fwrm channels, after a plan which would make it» resemblance to Venice greater than it is at present ; but (he level of the >vater not remalninij; constant, as in th& Adriatiok, and sometimes varying full fifteen feet| prevents the adoption of that plan, they neglect, however, n^ opportiinily to improve the town, forming it as much at Possible info streets, when fires have taken place and des- troyed the old buildings^ and insulating the noases wher^ itey U-ere tod closely situated. If any attempt should be^ made to remove the town, little difficulty would occur in trinspfanting tlie houses almost entire. They are chiefly of Wb'od^'and, being placed on rafts, might float down to the place of their destinatien. Itiey speak of moving a house in this part of the worl4 Ks a very trifling undertaking. When the late Mr. Gas- Itoigne went from Petersburgli, to preside over the foundry at liUgan, he paid a visit to a gentleuiau about twenty seven miles distant from the establishment. Finding him excel- lently lodged, in a well furnished, handsome, and very con- venient house ; " I wish,^ said lie, «^ I could have such a liuildlrifs: erected'for'me at Lugan.'^ His host replied : *' it jfou adimre my house, it i« at your service, exactly as yott see it ;'a&id 1 engage to place it for you at Lugan in the course of the week»^ A bargain was concluded between 4heiif, the house was movvd ; and Mr. Sai^ecrt^ife, who in- 4brmed nre'of th-e fact, resided in it whfn we were in that .eountry. ' , • . « The inhaJbitaDls of Tseheroliaskoy complain mueh df want of room.^ Nota sins^f ^ houte' fias a court -yat^d 5 * the Jj are all huddled' together, as if they had dropped froin tha eloiid^ during a shower,. into the river, aud'Only waited tiM 'gnte, as on the h&adof ft Mlidonna in the ^atTiedral. These treasures ato tlift n'»il» of Turkey and l^>ltnti.** Beber^s MS. Jotcrnak r0tifl«{f tftlie imter» to make Aeir mi^Uke. tlftj mrt i CroiibiM with vosqiiitoefty whidi abound in oil the neig^'- Wurhood of the Doo. When bit by theoe inseots, they observee geeat tsaulioa u^not seratehing xht wound ; but ta^e earefot to bathe it, as soon as possible with spirits of wine. I hara always found Goulards lotion to be the be^t remedy; and^ wanting that, salt mixed with an eqi&al j>ort2on of vi^ej;ar» itbere 'is not, I believe, a single spot in the whole towa whieh is not annoally inundated. We foaiid one dry place near the pnneipai ebureh; bat it was traverded hv Wooden causeways, whieh proved that the nsuhl pr^cantlop had been repaired there also, although thie spot was not actually •»f«r«d by water at the time. The streetin which nost of theohops are attuated is floored with planks } and ft mast seeessaAly be very unwholesome, as aU the dSrt^lflllfiilJ^ Ibroagh these floors, remains when the waters retire, 'they mre«fton troubled with ^ vers ; althoiif^b, when we f n^oired uto the liai of their diseaaosy they said they seldom' ifad any. The greatest rava^ is made by the small-pox; Im* aulatinn for the disorder had not yet bei^ inirodoeed amoaf^thaair The eomplaini they seem t^ dread, tiiore thati muy other, is called the disorder of^ kuirs. Otaiettn meB<s tions- Uns eoniplaint.* Hair is said to- b^ generated* im woondaof the bodies of those whom it afliets. Wo ^xpmis^ed our iaeredttlity to the wife of iieutenant-eolon^! Panaf ; but •ho persisted in asseiting, that »he had taken them Irom her «wa finder, in the presence of many witnesses. To ca're.|V (hey bind the leaves of a |dant somewhat like plantain^, whichf they say, draws out the hairs. We saw these leaveo dried, suspended os^tessly as a remedy for this complaint ; but, in their desiccated static eould not ezaetly proaounee what they were. Biliary obstruction is a common disorder araong them. As a cure for the ianndice) they drink itt infusion of the yallow flowers of a Gna|iA«^fli| which ia found in all the steppes. Stationed as they are, either in mud, yielding insalulary exhalations, or ia water, full of fro^, filth, and substanees whieh putrify as the flood letires, nothii^^ eoald preserve them from pestileaee, wer^ it not lor the great attention shown to cleanliness in their persona and their houses. The water of the Don iiiii • He «ez/ and •eeuUnr d iUeJtf imrliakpoaif » uid mrtieidMily Jiiiyre> irfA at rm- gersV. H eaa«e« « flatoieot disocder of tk ttmnaeh and bowels, . with violent pain and djscntary. ManT of thm Rufsiim risers have the sane ^aUty, paHieaurij tha Iferaat P^ter«jbur|;h, A Ure^k bcpught mo tome eoino of tbt OBMroar Coa*> stantiney whieh he had procured in Turker* He keat tlieiiiy he saidlifor the eure of diseaaes of ail fciadg; and, u proof of tkeixiiuraeiilo^s power, qworoy by all Jiie saints, fkat iff any .Sfx^p of them wat.plaeed in a Mve not a dciip of water W^^ pftte lhnittf>b it. As we laughed at kia i'oJly^ he waa Tpry^4e9iroii& 14 mftke the experiment; but wo ihooclit it So ridieulQW to mentso niaeh attention* He oeemoa to ha ^ very prinee of inpo«tor«9 and probably sold his Iraak at bigh f^rieea. He showed ns apieee of the ^nie cross, whiek ke aatd he^had brought from Jerosaleni, and which, worn ilpon his breast^ iiad .saved his life in -battle; asaballel j^rikiiNS^Q pretended reiick had fallen harmless an iba ^rpi|n£, . . • «. Hj|f?in{| now satisfied, oar ovriosity in tha survey of thia exiraojxlinary pia^, we took leave af its inhabitants, and amn embarked, aeeompanied bv the offieer who had w» fSlitely attended us, ana whose hospilality we had often ajuperieaced dorinfl* th^ visit n^ paid . to his capital. Wa (dn; Tseherckaskoy op. Mondi^ the twent;^ -third d^ off lone^ in the afternoon, and saUed doira the Don to Oxai« Ahont.iCwf miles* from TschefehaskiMr is an island called ITonnery Isle, or The Island of the Convent; whence, aa tke^ relate^ the iTu^ksiised freouently, in former times, ta aenve lyomen for.the seraglio or the grand sigaiar. • • ••'SftteaveriH. CHAPTER XIV- VOYAGE DOWN THE DON ^O AZOF AND TAGANROCK. Visit to the General in Chitf of the Cossack Army — Embar- kation for the Sea of^Axof — General View of the South of Russia — De Ruhruquis — Tartars — •^hrmenian CoUmy of JS^akheshivan^^Fortress of St, Demetri Rastof — Division of the Don — Tumuli — Fortress and Village of dxQf-^ City of Tanais^^Its "frrobabk Sittiation — Condition of the Garrison of Azof — Opinion entertained of the Cossadcs-^ Departure from Szof—^moetis '^Remarkable Phenome- non — Arrival at Tagunrock. THE morning alter our retam to Oxai^ we received a messai^e from s^eneral Vasili Petrovich Orliff, com* inauder in chief of the Cossack army, stating^, thai he ex- pected us to dine with him at his country seat upon tbe Don. We set our, accompanied by our friend coiouel Papof, and a Greek officer in tlie Cossack service^ whose name was Ma- .monof. The general had sent his earriage, with six fine Cossack horses, and several Cossacks mouuted with lances 9 to eitcort us. We passed along t he steppes^ aud oecasionaUj through vineyards, planted w-ith cucumbers, cabbages, liw dian wheat, apple, pear* peach, aud plum trees, and melons, for about ten miles, till we arrived at his house, which stood upon the European side of the river, opposite the town of Tsc here has koy, and distant from itabout five miles* Here we found elegant and accomplished women assembled round a piano forte ; and afterwards sat down to as magnificent a 'dinner as any (English gentleman might afford. The whole of which was served upon plate. The company consisted of about twenty persons. The general presented as with inead thirty years old, which tasted like fine Madeira. He wished very much for. English beer, having often drank it in Poland. A number of very expensive wines were brought round, many of them foreign ; but the best wine of the Don seemed superiour to any of them. As we sat banquettingin this sumptuous manner, I called to mind the erroneous no- tiosA we had onee entertained of the inhabitants of thii VOYAGE DOWN THE DON. ;20l country, and whieh the Russians still continue to propa- gate coneerninj^ the Cossack territory. Perhaps few in England, casting their eyes upon a map of this remote cor- ner of Europe, have pictured in their imagination a wealthy and polished people, enjoying not only the refinements, but eren the luxuries of the most eivilized nations. The con- versation had that enlightened and agreeable cast which cbarai^terizes well edneated military men. Some peculiari • lies, which distinguished the manners of our ancestors, and are still retained in the ceremonial feasts of ancient corpo- rate bodies, might be observed. The practice of drinking toasts, and rising to pledge the security of the cupbearer, was a remarkable instance. Another very ancient custom, still more prevalent, is that of bowing and congratulating any one who happens to sneeze. The Cossacks of the Don always did this. When we took leave of the general, he said, if we preferred returning by water, for the sake of va- riety, we might use his barge, which was prepared, and waiting to convey us. Being conducted to it, we found it manned by ten rowers, and decorated in a most costly man- ner. It was covered with fine scarlet cloth, and Persian carpets were spread beneath a canopy of silk. The current being in our favour, we embarked, and were speedily reeon- ducted to our quarters in Oxai. The next morning we took our leave of the Don Cossackk, «ml, havrng plaeed our carriage on board a barge, sailed delightfully down the river (often lookin? back at the fine view ef the town of Oxai and Tschreehaskoy) to Nakht- sill ran, an Armenian colony established about twenty years 1>efo)*e our arHval, and which had attained a very flourish- ing state, even in that short period.* Its inhabitants were : * '< A verst (hyi land) from the fort of Rostof^ is a lar^ Armenian towQy called JSi\tkUchivant after the ancient town of that name. W(^ spent the evenma in looking over it. They affirmed that it contauis 1503 Ramifies. It hastonr churches, and two very large hazurs, which are very jnuoh:crowdc4, aediiave |;pcfkt ^ptieu-anee of indnsti'v. We had a letter to one of the principal iuhabitauts, whohfid tlie rank of colonel^ and whose jBon was one of Mr. Andre's pupils (of RostoQ and our interpreter. His name was Abraamof. 1 found that Armenians usually expressed their ntmethft tfaia«uiiiD^, lr»m the Christiaa names •f their parents, yet with the teirminatioa \m rf^ which U« mark of j^ntiUty . This man had two sons in the Russian navy, and possessed the reputation of great wealth. He knew Lazaitsf, who told OrtofthQ great d^mond ; and described, in strong term*, the mkery and anxiety the Armenian had felt while it remained tu ]^s possession. His house was welUuriiisl^d> and had a biiUard-Cable, and many other Surppean lu&uries : sJl, howeTer, sat cro6S*ieggedy <^x<^pt the T 202 ULARKS/S TRAVELS !!♦ UlTfiSlA. derived from the Crimea. They liad about' fbitff h'andt%A tiiops, wbieh were all placed in one great covered biifiding, after the manner of those in Moscow. The towns near tlfe monlh» of the Don present the traveller with a most novel and interesting picture of society. He encounters haYfa dozen different nations and languages in the same "number of minutes ; ami each nation in its peculiar dresrsr As we walked np to the Armenian settlement, we beheld Tertars, Torksy Greeks, Cossacks, Russians, Italians, Cdlmueks, and Armenians, which, together with our Ens^Hbh party, formed a representation of tne costume of nine iilferent na- tions within the compass of a quarter of an EngtSih mHe. The Tartars were fishing in the riv^^ or driving eattte to- wards the town; the Turks were smoking in their cbffbe- h^nses^the Greeks, a bustling race, were walking abodt, telling lies, and bartering merchandise; the Cosi^acks were Hampering in ail directions on horseback ; the Rtissians, as poli«e officers, were scratching their heads ; the Italians master, whose dress alse, was sometUiif afler the E«z«|MMi,an«d«» Ke had 8ct«ral eurioiis aabtesaiid poignavdarleblf ^mameoted, lirhioh he ex- lubited with laadb [tride. He said, himself abd the greater part of hU feU , low towBunen, had emigrated frolti the Crimea daring the dtsturbailees there; tliat thej had this situation give* them, and a ohavtev^ \^ adipch thej had the same privilepei aatheir eoontiTneii at Astrachlo. The rain- eipal trade of tlie town m in leather. The women are almost all Te3ed» but those we caught a glimpse of were rerj heantifot. Their veils were very carelessi j disposed, and they betrayed no timidity* Tlie men are al8» handsome ; but they have a Jewish czyMssion in their aonntonaMe. The Russians deelare the^' hate alia naftund, unpleasant odour, Uhe that we at- tribute to the Jews. They dislilte then |freatly,'and have a proverb : * Two Jews equal one Armenian ; two Atwenians one Greek ; two^Ckvcka one Bevii.' The Armel^ans^ it ia well known, are a verv t^jtmuoA sect hy the Hussian government ; and aymy of the noblest (amihes bi^e a mixture c^' their blood. Of these are Dolgorucky and Ba^thion. Joan the first Sive the. title of JKVkr* to great numbei'S of Armenians, and pentiiHed to 1 a free trade and settfemant, with full liheirty of wacsbim ^^ ^^n of ^making their processions openh-. They have « magpiifieent chureb in Pe- tersburgh, andmany in AstrachanandCasan, Their enteiprize and lietf^ ▼ity are well known. Mr. Anderson of Petersburgh txM me, he knew one who had been twice toBassora, and onee foaarinaDSaid maA Tibst; Inaked Abramof if snch journeys were commons and if tliey eosdd take a Suro- pean with them as their servant, or in any odier diteuiae. He answered both these questions in the affirmative. He himself kMl keen Hi Georgia^ and many parts of Turkey, but nevet farther. W« obiei^ted aeveittl Mn- hannnedans, at least persMs lii green ««l4Mn% wMek no AnnaiMha wcmUl wear.*' Jleder's MS, J^dumaL As the green turban is a mafic of high ^sCmttioa in Toslwiy, and th« Armenians of Nakhtstiivan are onder no fear of ottiinding BMuMnmSdana, I suspect (for I noticed the some cottonie in the |toe) tint fkief mm wor* tneteiy oa vQconat of the freedom they enjoy, £^ if, C. , yoyjiOZ PQWK THE JDQjr. SOS iicr<( Ye^eliftaajaid. Neapolitan tailors; the Calaxiicks jab- t^ing witjh each other; the Armeniani, both men and wo- iKe% airing in drodciB i and the Bnf^sh staring at them all* A« ihe traveller apixroaches ^e Don, especially towards its eiplNMieluire, Tartar^ make their appearance iu ^eat iHim- bors; and tl^at race of men are geen from thence, westward, the whole waj to the Dnieper, In all the towns by the sea of Aa^f,, in the Crimea, ana throng^hout the drearj plains whie]i lie to the north of the peninsnlat . All the spifib of Russia? from the Dnieper to the VolMy and even to the territories of the Kirgissian and Thibet . Tartars, with all the north of the Crimea, is one flat, oneul- tivated, desoJate waste, forming, as it were,a series of these deserts wjijch go by the name of steppes. The very ear- liest iiiixf^inv^x^ from the eivilized parts of Snrope to these reui^/i^ barbarous regions, foona the country exactly as it JMiw^agpoars. A verj faithful description of it9 features occurs ia the narrative, of W, de Rubruqui employed as a missionary about the middle of the thirteenth century.* •* We jooraeyedy'.' «ajs,hi^' *< towards the east^ with no other objects in view tiian Qartb aad sky« and. occasion* ^Ijr the sea upen our rigbt (which is called the sea of Ta- •ais) and jnopeQver the si^pnichi:es of the Comani, whidU peemed ahoiit two leagjues distant, eofistructed according to tte mode «f huriol which ebameterised their ancestors* ' Wibatite land of, the Cowaiii was, is clearly aseerUined by the voyage of tlia amhassadow from pone Innocent the fourth to Tartarj, in tb« year C946, as taken out of the thirty seeand book of the Speculum Historiale of Vincentius JBel99cm»i84 ^^ We Journeyed through the country of the Comani, which is all Sat and Iim four great rivers. The first is called Kep^r [BorysthenesJ the second is called pan [Taaais} the third is named Y oIga'[Rha] the fourth is denominated Jaec [Rhy mus]." Thus it appears that tie Cofaaai, the ancestors of tlie Cossacks, hiid established themtelTeft as far to the westward as the Dnieper, before * ^'SianMi* ergo iret^us orjentera^ nihil ridentes nisi coelam et ter- mm, et afi^aaiMlo maiv ad dextram, quod dicitur Mai*e Tanais, et etiam ■pyuitmrns Cfmuinonini, quie apparebfuit nobis a duabus leucis, se«am1um •nod leMftnt p«reotelae eorum sepcUn simul. ItineraHum fV. de Ru' intquis, anno 1353. See Hakluyt, vol. I. p. 80. ^ ** IhMi«8 anitem per (eiram Com^orum, quae tota est plana, et flumi- !» ^fBtlMOr htki^ magiui. Primaai appellatur Neper rBomthenes] teaandttxo wpeUatar Don [Taaai»3 tertlum dicitup Volga Quhaj quartum npminauu* Jaec {^RhymQuT}.'' lb. p. 47. 3»k CLARK&'S TRAVECS Xt7 HtSillA. the mhMIe of (be thirteenth eentarj ; and^nihsiilarttbre tf^t is thrown upob a very obsenre part of aneietilf seography by the doeu meats thus afforded. W. de RtihruqdTs ^tiHseH; ia another passage of bis Itiaerary^^xes theipitnvitsas reaehing ^vestward even to the Danube; and says, that the ^llle eo0Dtryj from that river to the Tanais, was' inhabited by them. The western part was eaHed Casaria^ the Country of the Czars, Cassars, or Cossaeks, as they are twAv called. Nothing; can be more aeeurate than the account he has left •f these Tast solitudes, in which he says there is neither woody nor mountain, nor stone.* The Tartars on the Sea of Azof are a small' race of men * not so ugly as we have heard them dfesortbed;; bnt they disfigure themsehres by preying Iheirears forward with the lower rim of their cap«, from their tenderest inhmcj ; im consequence of which practice, their ears ptotrode from the sidesoftheirheads^andfront the spectator. Someof those who passed ns at Nafchtshivah looked most fHghtfully wild, appearing in the rude, and, perhaps, primeval dress 6t the firBtshepherds of the earth. Their bodies were almost na- kod; over their eh oulders were loosely suspended the an- dressed hides of their sheep, each being fastened with a single loop in front. Upon their heads, and around their waists, they wore a covering of the same materials ; an^ upon their feet, those sandals of linden bark, of which a description has been already given in the tenth chapter of this volume. I have seen exactly such figures represented • upon Greek vases, and in the sculpture of ancient t^^reece.t Np.khtghivan offers an example of that enterprising* spirit so characteristick of the Armenian merchants,- whdri stimu- late by the hepe of gain. They are not naturallya lively race of men. They have almost the gravity of Tofks; w4lh the boorishness of the Dutch> insomuch, thatit is a TCry * ** Tendebamus rect^ in orieotem ex quo exinmus {tmodioUim .pro* vlnciam Caaariap, hsbehtes mare ad meridiem, et vastam aoUtudintm fid aqinlonem : auae dnrat per rigSnti dietas aficubi in latitudine : in qua nvld' esl^vOi^naUutumi*, W9ikt8iafii9. Herba est optima. lahacsolebAnt pasc«^re Cmnaniy qui diouotar Copchat. A Teutonicifi ver64ievu»tur Valani, et i)rovincia Valania. Ab Isidoro vero dicitur a fiumine Tanai usque ad pahides Meo^idis et Danuhitim Alania, Et durat Ista terra in loiuntudiae a Danubio uaqut Tasum-^aae tota iohabitabatur a ConuaUs.** SaHuyt, voLXp.80,. -j- AmoDgitbe eartben Tessetadaseribed-and-.pObUshed at Naples/ ^etv' ^ is a costume of tbis kind upon the ixersQn of a male figtire, vl|» i« dflineated cbeclun| two furious horses. VOYAGE »OWN THB DON. 3Di eMimoQ Mfiiig with Eoropean merehftats in Constantino- pUi that ^^ an Armenian expresses mirth as a bear danees.'' Yot, when instigated by eommeraial speeulations, they pe* netrate all eountries^ and orereorae all obstacles ; frequently making journeys over land to India, and the most distant regions of tlio ^lobe. Who but the^, relying^ upon the pro'^ mises of Russi^f eonldhave entertained the hope, and real- ized the expectation, that in a poor villa^ on the Don^ surrounded by immense deserts, they should establish a source of commerce and of wealth ?. 'their commodites and Biauufaetures, as far as we were enabled to jad|;e of them, appeared to be Turkish, and of a nature to find a ready sale in Oxai and Tseherehaskoy. Thej supply all the fairs of the neighbouring^ provinces, wbieh are the most extraordinary spectacles in Burope, because attended by persons from almost every nation u|>on earth. There is scarce a people, refined or barbarous, wliO have not their representatives at tlie fairs held along the seaof Aicof, and upon the Don ; but particularly at the great fair of Nakbt- snivan. . The HamttjeobU of llerodotus then make their app^aranee, exactly as they lived in the days of the histo- rian^ iravelling in veliieles, the ooveriog of which are tentsby night, and tilts for their cars by day. Such move- able dwellings may be noticed in all the territoreis of the Tartars. We entered the quarter in which the shops are stationed* It is a very lofty, covered street, or cloister, surrounding a square, after the manner of the palais royal at Paris. Bvery trade had its peculiar place assigned, as in the Turkish ha:^r^ of Constantinople ; and^aoeording to the rule observ- ed in oriental baxars^ the floor of each iihop was made level with the eoanter ; the dealers sitting at work as in Turkey^ with their legs crossed under their bodies. The shops were all well stored, and a rapid sale was going on. Their own- ers, in many instances, were reallv Mohammedans, who ma- nufactured slippers, sandals, ana boots, in coloured leather. Of other trades, we observed tobacconisto, pipemakers, clo- thiers, linendrapers, grocers, butchers, bakers, blacksmiths, siikmereers, dealers in Indian shawls, &ec They make bread of a very superiour quality ; and, aeeording to the Asiaiiek custom, it is publikiy kneaded and publiekly baked ; 80 Ihftt the whole process of preparing the most inlportant article of their food is open (o evcrv one. The crowd passing before their shop^ resembled a masquerade, in T2 5»0 Clarke's travels In ru^ia. wUch i%e cos^ttj embroidered vestments of rich ArmeTiian merchants* were contrasted with the hides which covered the wild Tartars, the long pelisses of the Turks the miK- tary, but simple g*arb of the Cossacks, the uncouth. unitbrm; of the Russian police, and the greasy trappings of the Calmucks. We visited a Turkish coffee house, the scene of the most favourite recreation of the oriental nations. On the riglit hand as we entered^ upon a raised floor, like the counters used by taylors, were squatted a number of the merchants of the establishment, leaning upon cushings, with long pipes smoking, and drinking coffee. As we joined the party, we were presented, according to the usual custom, with lishtfed pipes (having tubes made of the wood,of cherry-tree, tipped with amber) a small cup of coffee, and a bit of wooa of iiloes ; which they put into the bowl of each pipe, and which exhales a most refreshing and pleasant fragrance. In a eorfier of the apartment stood a vase, containing blossoms of an Iris^ called in England Flower de luce. It i^rved as a kind tif sign to the box on which it was placed, in the lid of which was a small hole, to receive the enntribntions of those who were expected to leave a trifle for the pipe and coffee they had used. Some Turks who were present, seen* od absolutely breathing the fumes of tobacco. They in- haled large quantities of. smoke upon their lungs; and, after retaining it there till their features became £stended Ifith suppressed respirati(Hi, yielded back larga curling volumes, as from a chimney, by their nostrils, their mbutli^ and their ears.f According to Pallas,|* th^ origin of the Armenian esta- blishment at Nakhtshivan was the emigration of the inhabi- tants of the Crimea, when Suwarof withdrew with the Rus- * The costume of the Arracnian women of Astraoban is the richest ia Russia. It is surprising that thej sustain the weight of their dress. The irst, or inner robe, is of silk and gold ; the second, of black velvet, bea\ily laden with gold and pearls. The third, or outer vest, is almost of massive gold, in ponderous embroidery, with large gold knobs* gold buttons, gold tassets, gold fringe^ &c. kc. Tlie turban is white, hangs over the left shoulder, and conceals the face, except the nose and eyes. The only hair disclosed is often false ; two thick locks, one on each side, being hroaght in front qf t}ie~ eai*s. t The Chinese, and other oriental nations, perforate the dram of their ears fQr this pwpose. It is &ot| boilr«vcr, eommoa f«r Turks to undergo ihat operation. ^ Timvels through the Southern ProT^ccs, &c. Vol. I. p. 4r6» V67AGK X>6WK 1PH» 1>0». 507' sian troops, and peaee was eoiicli^fl wif h tbe Tartan. At that time, the mostopnteiit'Armetiiati mechanieks and m«r- ehantis, tog^her with the major part of the Christian inha- bitantsy upon whom the whorSe of the nroduetire indastry andeoninieree.off the peninottla depended, left the Crimea^ late in the autumnal season. The empress ordered proper bdildtngs and aeeommodations to be prepared for their re- ception npon the Don; but the Russian eommissaries took special «are^to' convey into their own poekets the money allowed to complete the work according to the intentions of their soTcreign. ' When the Armenian colony arriYed, they £Hind nothing but a parcel of miserable huts, coi^strueted in the most expeditions and wretched manner. These t hey have since converted into neat and comfortable houses, many of which are of limestone^ and covered with tiles ; in the mana&etane of which, as well as of pottery in general, itiB inhabitants, are very skilful. Other Armenian settFe- ments bdonging to the same district of Rastof, are in the neighb<Hii4ood, and ail of them in a flourishing state. The AfmeniaiM werelnm^ respected in the country; and their industry^ sobriety, and ^ood aiol*al conduct, render them a most important acquisition to the empire. Their whole po- pulatioD, however, including persons of both sexes, tad all the Armeoiivn settlements in the district, did not amount to eig^t thoasand.* Again- embarking upon the Don, we proceeded from Nakhtshivan to the fortress of St. Demetri Rastof, hardly a mile lower down the river .t . It was a place of great ini- * Pallas estimates it at 7000. vol. I. p. 480. f Mr. Heber performed ajonmGy from Taganrock to Rastof by land. Hia observations concerning; the latter place are therefore peculiarly appro- priate, and serve to supphr the deficiency of my own. •• Here it is that the faiirks from Voronets are broken up, and the goods embarked fh>m Tacan* rock.' We saw about sixty lighters lying in the river, many large enough to perform the vojrage to Arabat Some of these which we pointed out, they told us had haade voyages all the way to Caffa. There is a large brewery, producifig veiy detestable beer and porter. Tiie distilleries are numerousy and, if we understood right, pay no duties, unless sent inland. The banks of the JMh are eotered above by vineyards, and below by stinking sudak, a Uirge, white fish, drying^ in the snn. Fish are caught in gi*eat abundance and variety. The principal kinds are beluga, sturgeon, steriet^ and siidak. There are also myriads of Prussian carp, which, with all the refuse fish^ are heaped up in great. danghilU among the black, circular tents of the Calmucks. The Cossaeks.pay no doty od salt, if it be for their own eoo- sumption. The fortress is just above the town ; it is extentive, but ill situat- ed. In it is a small garrison, and a school kept by an old Frenchman of the same of Andr^« He had about twenty pupils, who were taught Fjreneh, d08 CLA&KK't rmKVmtB 1K »Vft$lA. pirtaiiee when the Tarkish froaiier was nearer. The Don M here mueh broader and dee{ier ; in eonseqiienee of vhiehy the vestcls from Woronetz, unfit to encounter the sea, are hroken up, and their eargoos, the nroduet of Rnisi^iy shipped on hoard lia^hters and amall veMeli, and tent to Tag;aAroek, to load the vestelo Ijine in the roads, off that plaoe. The goremonr both of Ajsof and Tacanroek, retidea at Rastof ; although those places have eaen their superionr resident offieer, who is ealled oonmnandani. Raatof is garrisoned bjr Russian troops. We found it in a deplorable state of ne* gleet. The Cossacks of the Don elaim the territory of die small traot upon which the fort is built, as well as of that on whieli have been founded the Armenian settlements in its vicinity. I could learn no other reason for this, than that they had the care of eondnctinf[j the mail. Indeed, the ge- nerality of them seemed to eonsider their land as limitodby a boundary between Oxai and Nakhtsbivan. In an entire so. little settled as that of Russia, whose southern frontier is eontinually advaocing, by the eneroachments daily made upon the territories of other nations, the limits of any par- ticular province are not likely to continue lone the same. Other travellers may possibly arrive, and find the whole race of Don Cossacks moved, and planted open the sides of Mount Caucasus : and those of the Blaek Sea, the Teher- nomorski, so latelv carried from the Dnieper to the banks of the Kuban, ancl of whom we shall soon speak more dif- fusely, may then be found repelling the incursions of the Persians and Afghans upon the southern shores of the Caspian. Continuing our delightful voyage with very favourable weather, we advanced towards Azof; and the conseioutmess of sailing with all Rarope on our right hand, and all Asia on our left, did not foil to eieite reflections very interesting at the moment. The refinement, the science, thecommercet the power, and the influence of the one t the sloth, the super* stition, the effeminacy, the barbarism, find the ignorance of the other. One fact, at least, has been taught me in travert* ing Europe, almost the whole of which I have explored, that there exists no where a savag^ people, as fixed inhabit'* ants. Every part of Europe is civilized. If the Nagstefc German, writing, and geography. Tliey -wtre al! Tery little "boji- ^J fcad a letter to the master, and foand an old man in a Bhcepstin, whkn would have turned the stomaeh of a Mt9M9k. sitting down tQ diw^f ^»**^ VOJAO^ DOWN THE »9K. jQlQft li^artar, ihe wandering Calmuek, and the imnad? Laplan- «ier, be deemed jsavave; aU of ivhom are a htimaoe people, it should be observed, that they are pecnliar to no particular territcrry, bat lead, Hketh'e more sava^^e gipsy, a^vagrant life. It is a rery common absurdity to hear nations remote frotti ohservaftion branded with the imputation of barbarism^ yet the peasant, of Ireland, the sma^g^er of £ngland, or the paissarae of Fmnee^ is altogether ais onenligntened, more inhuman, atid possesses more of savs^e fer6eity, than either the Lanlander, the Tartar, or the Calmuck. As for the agriealturar Laplander, thd mountaineer of Norway, and the inhabitants^ of the north df Sweden, there does not exist a better disposed,, or a more benevolent people. One of our boatmen,' a €ossack, fmealcins of a stanitza that was situated in a creek, or tnrntitg of tne river, made use of an expression which may, perhaps, afford the etymo- logy of thfe name of a town in the rery north of Britainl He said it was In veMess^ <* In the*turning.^ It is certainly worthy of remark, that Ibvemess, pronounced exactly ia thb same manner, is aho stmiiariy situated, with regard ta the coast. - Several villages are** scattered along' the banks of thi^ river; but they consist chiefly of wretched hovels, con-s structed of the reeds and fl4gs which grow in the shallows ef the i>on ; and with these objects only in view, the travel* ler is presented with scenery very accurately corresponding with thedeseriftion given of the wigwams and waters of America. Soon after we passed the fortress of Rastof^ we were graftffied by a retrospective view, which at oncd embraeed the whole of the settlements on the northern side of the river, including Rastof, Nakhtshivan, and Oxai.. Here the Don is divided by 'the channel which beard the name'of Jfte Doad Bmaetx $ and the high lands,, on whicli thtese tewiM are stationed, coi^tinue to form the northern bsuftk of that branek We sailed along the current whieh preservesihe proper ni^me of the river, and' whieh, afler this separation, flows throneh very flat and marsh^r terri- torv. The oB)y objeets whieh interrupted the uniformity of the landscape were those aneient sepulehres alluded to in- the passage from/Rnbruquis, cited in the ^dd page^ and to whieh I hav6 so often had reference. I eadea-* voured to delinec^e a very remarkable group of thern^ con? sisting bir five tombs, much larger than the usual ajppear- anee of others near the river, vmd which, from time imme" , Mi/9 GI.4JM^'ft ITRAVELS Uf liy^SIA. laoriiiy.lutTe imne the appellMioQ •f Tkt Fivt Jtrotittrst Tbey are upon tlie fiuropean «ide. If Ftoleiay^fi positioo of thehexhn of the TanaueoulA be reeoneiled witli tb^ «Ue ef tnat remarkable deviation of tbe riyer from its eour^o whieb forms the Dead Oanaetx» I should net hesitate in deMsribin^; those tombs as the actual monomests to wbieh he aXludea under the name (rf the AUara of Alexander, Tke BciMOi^ or Altars of the Greeks, were t^M tdtttria by the Romans, ab aUUudiMf from their being raided hi^ above the groumL In lew fiat eoentriesi where Ihere were no mountains or hills, they raised artificial aseents for their altars. But sacrifices were offered upon the sepulchres of the dead, as upon altars | and, ooosistentij with this prac- tice, Alexander nauf /lis i^m&s, and performed rites, upon the tombs of AeniUes and Ajax;* wiiea he invaded Aaia^ and landed upon the plain of Troy ; anointing; with per* fumes the xthaai placed upon them, according to tha cus* torn of the aee in which He lived. The same goo^apher places the Attars of Cesar still nesfff r to the position of tiiese tombs. To om or other of them, they will, probably^ hereafter be referred. In the mean time^ until we hare b^ter knowledge of the country and its antiquiti^, we musl leave their real history undecided^ . • Amoi^the various race of men which dwelt near tbe mouths S the Don, and in the ncishbourhood of Rastof, the Tartars are the most numerous. Many absurd reports were ■I circulation eoncemkig the danger of venturing among dmnu At Rastof, in particulai> we heani some fearful talcs of robbers, and the banditti of the $Um», but had every reason to believe that they wevei for the most part, if not wholly, without fouqdatioa^ The long expected sight of Azof at last presented itself before our eyes, making a very conspicuous and consider* ahk appearance, and somewhat carrecponding with the false ideas we had entertained of its importance. Its imaginary eonsoqoenee, however, as a fortress, vanished the mouient we arrived \ for nothing can be more wretched and insigni*' Scant than the real character of the place itself. The figcrc it has made in the wars between Russia and Turicev has given it a place in our maps and gazetteers : althoogh the meanest hamlet of Kaccschatka might dispute its title to natiee. A handful of troapsy aided only by their bayonets, • Bic^or. Sip. lib. vfYu Sec alio, Chanmer*? Wam, p. 70, to AZOV AND TX^kTHnOCK* tit miglit take pofes^ssion of it at any time. The garrison eoir« sists of a few worn oat Rassian invalids. The wot&s, If such tliey may tie called^ are abandoned to deeay, and situa- ted below the Tillage ; $o that, in the ercnt or an attack, there are several heists which wMldeominand them. The ^ilk^ itself stands upon a hi^h ridp^, upon whose low^r extremity the foi^tress is sitnated. From these heights we had a view of the entrance of the Don Info the sea of Azof, and of Taganroek, which we could plainly discern across the water. The mines of tho fortress were described as very extendve, and Considerable excavations might be observed under the w^hote^ of the ramparts ; but they make no use of them, and, indeed, were icpnorant for what purpose many of them were originally designed. All that remains of the Turkish fbrtihcation fs a part of a wall, now a mere roin. They showed us an old rampnrt raised by Peter the Grei^, on the opposite side of the rtver, and uHed by him when he hesieg^d the place. As it has ueen always Supposed ih%t the ancient city of Tanais existed either on the site of Azof, or in its imme- diate vicinity, I wa| verv particular in my inuuiries cdn- cemiKg it, both amDng the olficers and other innabitanti tif the place. I also made such observations as the time allowed ttfa would permit; but not a trace of any such city could he discovered, neither had there ever been observed, as a vesti^ of It, any of those remains which infallibly indicate the cities of the Greeks. Of these, broken poitervisthe most usual, on account of Its inc^irraptible nature, and which atmo^t always serves to point ont the locality of Oreciaii cities, even when medals and other marks 6f their topogra- |thy have not been found. It \i natural to conclude, that if the Greeks ever built a city on this branch of the Don, it stood upon its banks, and n«t at any distance fVom the water. Bat the site 6f A2(of is the only spot near the river en which ft was pog«iU$ to build. The rest is all a swamp, even the reeds of whieh are annuafly inundated. To the east, south,, aftd sonth-cast, the interiout' of the country offers a parched ind barren desert : the rait is all one vast, morass, oonsisting 6f deep bogs and water. If then, on die elevated soil which has afforded a fuvndatfon to the fbrtress and present village of Azof, it he presumed that such a city as TanaSs once stood, is tt possible that, iii the immense excavations whieh the modems have carried on from time to time, in thefetvt- adotty the v^poTAtiott, and the destriictian of Aeo& tomi S4^ CL'ARKB's TttAVELS IN R^^SSIA. Ttttek of aiifi(toitj', eHlier ti me^ak^ ^eapofis, tates, br ^epaiehres, would not have been diseorered ? Yet, iti no infttanee of sueli worfcs^ or at any other peHod, has there ever been observed a single trace of the existence of any former selttemeiit, except that which was made there by the Turks. 8ome of the senior officers, who were well tnfonned of every thing that had occurred there since the time of Peter the Great, and amoni^ others, the command'^ ant, declared, that nothing had ever been found of sneh a description; and that, in ail the country abont the place, there was no sign of the existence of any former city. About fifteen years ago, some coins were found Upon the shore of the sea of Azof, further to the westward; but the characters upon these coins were described to us as Indian, or Chinese: probably they were -Tartarian, or'Tofkisfi. If there ever did exist sueh a city asTanai's, I should expect to find the traces of it at the extremity of that north- ern embouchure of the Don which I have before mentioned as bearing the veVy name the Greeks gatve to the city, with the slightest variation of orthography, in the appellation Tdanaets or Danaetx. It is a channel of the river wh ich I had not an opportunity of exploring. Perhaps some fu- ture traveller will meet with more .success ill jthis paHieu- Jar inquiry ; and to forward it, I have affonled hiin a cine in the map of which has been engraved of the mouths of the river. The plaee to which I would particularly direct his attention, is now called Sinovkd ; but he will in vain look for it, or even for the branch of the river I have mentiouedly in any of the maps which have heretofore been published. The inhabitants of Azof amount to a small nnmber, including the garrison. There are not more than fifty houses in tlie whoie settlement. The olUcers quartered, there cdmplained, as well they might, of their solitary and Seclu- ded state of life. Exiled from all commerce with mankind, because detested, even by the nations around them, and without a single comfort to fender human existence ^up-. portable, the. joy our arrival diffused niay be easily ima- gined. ^' ^one^^^ said the old commandant, as he approached the shore to welcome our arrival, '' none hu^ Englishmen wmild come to ^xof^ if they could avoid ft." il had reasoii to entertain the same Sentiments afterwards} but from very diflferent motives. Nothing CQuld be mor^ ia8up^6rtahl« than their curiosity, and the inode of showing what they iatwded as hospitality. No other employtteat was thooglit TO AZOF ANP TAGJLHKQOK. ^|3 of tbaii tbat of dnntiogy «boutiii^ ^d diuieinf. ^ Some symptoms, at the same time, wer6 manifesled, which eon- siderably alarmed us, of usint; eon^ulsory measures* in order to prevent our departure. Uaif'a century might pass^ during, all whkh time its inhaUitauts would see no faces except tliose of their owu garrison^ consequently, the slightest variation of such monotony was hailed with trans- port, and the coming of a.^tranger considered as an event of more than usual importance. We found them lost in in- dolence and wretchedness, badly supplied with provisions, and destitute even of wholesome water. The suspicions inquiries, and insidious artifices, eommonly practised by Russians in their reception of foreigners, were, for onee laid aside ; and> in their place, were substituted boisterous greetings, and the most troublesome importunities. Our appearance at this time was eertainly rather calculated to excite curiosity. We had not less than four large marmots Jiving constantly in the carriage, whose ravages were visi- bly msplayed in all parts of its lining. |' for there is hardly any thing which these animals will not endeavour to devour. Our interpreter, a Greek, the sallowest of his race, wore a strange dress, in which the various habits of Russians, Cos- sacks, Tartars, and tribes of his owu nation, were singu- larly bfended ; while our wardrobe, scarcely less remarka- ble, betrayed evident marks of the casualties and disasters of a long journey. In addition to these, were books filled Hvith plants for our herbary, minerals, stuffed birds, and quadrupeds, boxes of insects, thermbmetdrs, pots, kettles, naif a cheese, and a vinegar cask. The soldiers of the gar- rison seemed more astonished and amused by the appear- ance of the marmots than by any thing else; and the mar- mo tf, participating equal surprise on seeing them, setup their loud and shriO whistle whenever they approached. A 4;oncert and supper were prepared for us in the evenings and a veteran omcer, general Pekin, seventy-three years of age, was brought in a ehair to see the two Englishmen. He had been celebrated both in the Prussian and Russiau service, and lived upon a pension at Azof. This venera- ble soldier expressed himself so much rejoiced at seeing us, that, in spite of his years and infirmities, making one of the officers stand up with him, he insisted upon exmbiting the Russian national dance, v ^14 CLARKE'S TRAVELS IN RrsSIA. The contrast wliich ^as been before made* between 'a Cossack and a Russian appeared very striking in this voyage 3o\vn the river from Oxai to Azof. In the course of a single day, we breakfasted with one people, and were com- pelled to sup with another. I say compelled, because the conse«[uences of refjjsin^ such invitations are very serioim in thiscciintry,especialiy if they come from petty officers of the Russian army, who have it always in their power, and •generally in their inclination, to embarrass and impede a traveller. The distance between the two places does not exceed forty five versts. We left the Cossacks with sorrow, and full of gratitude for the politeness and liberal hospital- 1y wc l:nd experienced; and the very sight of a Russian, uti- der tt:c!i impressions, was doubly revolting. It may be conceived, t'len, what onrfeelinnjs were, when, as we landed at Azof, an iirvpcrtincnt yojing officer, belonging to the gar- rison, inquired wh it could have been our inducement for venturing amonj^ so ferocious a people as the Cossacks. I endeavoured to get rid of tlie question, hj asking another. " Do you," said 1, " never visit them ? " Never!" said he: <^ we consider them as so many wild beasts. It is true^ thej are rich ; but God alone knows what they do with their money, or how they obtain it : we never see any of it." My companion could not refrain from replying ; and said, with some indignation to the young officer who uad addressed us in French : " Yon shall hear how they obtain it ; and what t hey do with it ; and why you never see any of it. They are industrious merchants, and derive wealth by commerce: they are good husbands and fathers, providing for their fam- ilies, and educating their children : and you never see ail this, because, as you confess, you never visit them." \Ve succeeded, with great difficulty, in obtaining leave to quit the place on the Allowing day. General Pekin lent ns his assistance; and it was owing* chiefly to his interest that twenty soldiers were ordered to attend by day-break, and assist in towing the boat against the current $ as it was necessary to reasccnd a part of the river, and proceed to- wards the sea by one of the '^louths thi'ough which the Dob disembogues itself, nearer to Taganrock thjan that branch of it on which Azof is situated. We took leave of our boisterous entertainers soon after midnight, most of whom were by this time more than ^* half seas over ;" and, in order • See p. 155, TO AZOf AKD TAGAKROCS.. 213 la seeare our retreat, we determined to pass the night in the boat. It was slill dark, and dreadfully tempestuous. A Uiund^rstorm came op, and the wind blew with the fury of a hurricane. As we passed the sentinels to go towards the river, vivid fla'fhes of lightning disclosed to us at inler- yais, our carriage tossed about iu the lioat, as if in a gale at sea. We got on board, however ; and presently such a de- luge of raih ensueid, that we were glad to seek shelter with the wanoots, >i'hose natural somnolency wag not proof against such violent concussions, and who were thrusting tiiqir noses lietween the blinds of the windows. 1 never expe- rienced such a tempest. During all the rest of the night, the water seemed to descend as from a cataract, beating tnrough the very roof of the carriage, and entering by every crevice. \fi the day dawned, the rain ceased to fall; but the wind eontinueq as before. Our servant arrived from the fortress, liaviiig succeeded in mustering the soldiers. We encourag- ed them by liberal offers ; and bad the satisfaction to find, that although our boat's motion was hardly progr;;s3ive ^gain^t the united force of the wind and tide, we were ac- tually leaving Azof. Alter a long and very obstinate struggle, iu Avhich our boatmen were nearly exhausted, we at last succeeded in Teaeiiing that branch of the river through w hich we were to steer with the tide towards the sea. Itis called the Kalan- €ha. Here we rewarded and dismissed our assistants from tlie garrison, hoisted our canvass, and, falling very rapidly down the current, sailed into the Mseotis. The mootlfs of the Don are thirteen iu number. In other respects, this TLver,by its shallows and islets, its periodical inundations,' its rapidity and rolling eddies, perturbed by slime and mud, its vegetable and a,uimal product ious, bears, as has been before remarked, iv most striking resemblance to the Nile. The inhabitants of all this part of the sea of Azof maintain that its waters annually diminish. A remarkable phenome- non occurs during particular seasons, which oifers a very for- cible proof of the veracity of the Sacred Scriptures. During violent east winds, the sea retires iu so remarkable a man- ner, that the people of Taganrock are able to effect a pas- sage on dry land to the opposite coast ; a distance of twenty versts* : but when the wind changes, which it sometimes idoes very suddenly, the waters return with such rapidity to * Bather less than fourteen milc^k si 6 CLARKE'S TRAVELS IK Rt^SSIA. their wonted bed, Ihat many lives are lost. Id this manner, also, small vessels are stranded.* We saw the wrecks of two, which had east anchor in good soundings near the eoast, but were nnexpecitedly swamped upon the sands. The east wind often sets in with great vehemence, and continues for several weeks. They have also frequent gales from the west ; but very rarely a wind due north, and hardly ever an instance in which it blows from the south. This last circamstanee has been attributed to the mountainous ridge of Caucasus, which intercepts the winds from thaf i|uarter. The sea is so shallow, neir Taganroek, that shipfe performing quarantine lie off at a distance of fifteen ver8ts;t and vessels, drawing from eight to ten feet of water, cannot approach nearer to the town to take in their lading. The elevated situation on which Taganroek is built ren* dered it visible to us from the moment we entered the sea of Azof. The wind, however, began to fail ; and it was night before we reached the shore.^ Several of the inhabitants fame down upon our arrival ; and being afterwards provid- ed with a tolerable set of apartments, we established our- selves for a few days, to prepare for our journey through Kuban Tartary. * *' The merchandise brought from Voronetz comes down to Rastoffiix tarks whiph will not bear the sea, but are broken up there. Their car- goes arc again embarked in lighters, vhieh convey them to Taeanrog, and (o the ships in the road. As the wind changes to the east, and the watef grows shallower, they get farther and farUier oat tQ sea, and are often obliged to sail without having completed their cargo. This singular kind of monsoon takes place almost every year after midsummer. The gjov- ernour said it seldom failed. Storms are not uncommon; and the naviga- tion is considered as very unsafe, by reason of the numerous shoals, and the want of shelter," Heber^s MS. Journal. I have followed Mr. Heber's orthography in the names of places, when? cter an extract is g^ven from his journal ; not deeming it lawful to subject so accurate a writer to any roles which I may have l»d d©wa Cor mysellV and to which, perhaps, J have not always affkerod f Ten.l»il^s. f ! M I i k i'lV CHAPTER XV. / EUROPEAN AND ASIATICK SHORES OF THE SEA^OP AZOF. Taganrock — Commerce^ exUrnal and iidernal^^Canal of Communication between tlie Caspian atid BLatk Sea — Marring Ceremony of the Calmucks — Consecrated En-^ signs of the Calmuck Imw — Difference between their Sa-* ered and Vulgar fVritingS'^Sarmacand — Various Inha^ hitants of Taganrock — Antiquities — Voyage across the 8ea of Azof—Chumburskaia — Margaritovskaia. TAGANROCK is situated on the cliff of a very lofty pro* montory, commanding an extensive prospect of the sea of Azof, and all the Biiropean coast to the months of the Don. Azof itself is visible in fai r weather, from the heis^hts ' of the citadel. At present, the number of inhabitants does not exceed Sive thousand. The water, as in the Don, is yery unwholesome^ when the wiuds carry ott* the salt water; but when a current sets in from the sea it is more salutary. It certainly was not one of the wisest plans of Peter the Great, when he proposed to found the capital of his empire in a place so disadvantageously situated. The water near it is so shallow, that no haven could possibly have been construct- ed, except by formini^ canals at an expense beyond all calcu* lation. The ships now at quarantine lie off at a distance of ten miles; and all vessels draw in 2; from eight to ten feet water, can only approach within fifteen versts of the town. Taganrock formerly contained seventy thousand inhabit- ants ; but in consequence of a capitulation made with the Turks, it was entirely rased. Its revival may bear date from the estaldishment of the Armenian colony at Nakhts- liivan. At present, all the best houses are in its suburbs. The fortress contains a miserable village, full of ruins; -exhibiting at the same time, traces of very considi^rabk works, wnich have been entirely abandoned. The inhabit- ants entertain hopes that the emperour will visit and inspect the place, and that it will then become a town of the hrst importance in the empire. There is not any situation in 4he south of Russia more favourable for comniei*ce« was it U ^ 218 CLARKE^S TRAY&JLS IN TARTARt. not for Hie w»a< ©f water, ^htfs IVom the Alaek B«a Und* here^ in readiness for em^aHkatwrn, all the produce 6f Sibe- ria,* with the caTtare, atid other doimnodities of A^trairha'n ; whet^at at Cherson and Odessa the^ have'to ivait fbi^iadifig after their arrival. But i% h &n\j during ttiree monlhs iii the year tliat eomnie»ree eaii be carried on at Tagawroek.' In wiater the sea is frozen, so that sled^^s pas» upon' the- me to Azof. Oliring the short season of their eomHieree^ ihe rest of « single warchoase npon the shore 10 estimated at foar haiidred rouhiev. A» soon as the irstihif^ nMike^ ihetr appeatavce Hwm the Black Sea, the wf^oiis fiaom t4e' taterioar begin to arrive.* These ehips imdei^ aqaaran*^ tine of fortj dajsy during aU ^rliiehtime the baravaim eon^ liiiae to tnerease^ and b^ote tli6 end of the quarantitie^ no less than three thansand f^agoas oecapy alt the plaras he^ low the town* Of this nuinber, six tboasand arrive anna* ftlly JlroBi the Ukviiinei Ta^ancack has three fitirs !■ the year ; the firdt Hpo«i the lest of May $ the aeeond, atid prkncipai ika^y upon tiie te^itii * " From November to March, the sea is frozen, and navlgjitlpn seWoip safe earlier than April. As soon as the ice is supposed to have passed, a small vessel is sent frem Taganrog to Kerteh (in die Crimea) and vlct wertd. Alier this signal tli« ufivigiiUoQ commences. Pcom. Aptil.to raid* -summer a southwest wind prevails very steadily^ which greatly inctre^Ui^ the depth of water, and favours the an*ival of vessels, Ahout midsummer tlie water is getterally deepest, and the sea crowded with smalt vessels. The harboar adaiHs hut few. Vessels may them lie tolcmUy «ear the shore ; at other times^ sliips of two hundred tons jare ^ropetled to lie |n the open sea, fifteen yersts [ten miles] from the shoi'c. In autumn, the sea of Azof is often no ttioi-e than fourteen feet at its greaffesf depth. Fix)m Taogarog $oAm<o£ is » shoaV or oonttifluitidn of shoafe, with hardly sev^n . tcet water, and in some places only five. The number of vessels is gener- ally from six to seven thousand. Of these, ahout cmehuhdted amtfifty, or t wo ImndiHid, are small craft frcmi Trebtzond and Sitiope^ whi^h fering*n«r- dek, a marrinaliide of^rapes, tmSbecntief, asyrup-diAde m>m varioasffv^s , hy boUing thfetu wifb honey. Batsinsof the 4un are alio brought iti- great (quantities. All these are used hi the distilleries. Since thedestm«6oAH)f the ^ineyarfls hy the late hard winters, the becmiss has become IQj^r^ ne» t^essarj'. The syirit thus produced is sold all over the empire as Frfench brandy. The Gji'eeks of the Archipelagjo bring chiefly wine of a very poor hort, whicli is alio used in the distilleries. Of these Cirecks, abwit one thint carry the liubsian ffag-j hut, as onr friend I>" 1 said- (a merchant -who resided hei-o) *' Mnuveis JStute, McunvaU J*atdllon" - They. are of very had uhara^ei*, and very poor. Any Greek who. iroudd purdsswe a liouse and laod^ became at once a HUssian subject, and engoyed dieir pro- tection. The real Hussian traden are very few. The Barapean trader? ^t/vre Italian, Itaguaan, AustriaapandDalmatian, ao^hi laOSatew Freneh, %at luider EfigUsh colours, and -wilii JdEdtese ciwws. Tboie bring French "wine, and tr^erraanr and English «loth« They carr^^ back ibh ftiid h'oA." 9H0BES OF THE fiBA0V Jk^V. 3A^ -ef Augafit ; ani^ tke third, ufwii "ttie inghtecfotk of NoTember. The quantity of fish takes In tkesea of Azof is tntly asto- ni»hiDg ; and these are sent, in a dried state^ over all the. SQUth of Russia.* They reeeive frait from Tarkey, siieh as figs, raisins, and oran^s ; also Greek wine^irnm the Arehl- pdii^, wiUi tncensa^ eoffee, silks, sheik, tobaeeo md pee* cious stonos* Copper eomes to them from TreMsond, bat of a ?ery inferioar quality, and is all sent to Moseoir. Amonf^ liheijr.praneipal. exports are eavaire, butter, leather, talioWf efll*A»fuir8,. eanirass, rising, linea, wwntyheliip, and iron; aC wJuQh lUst^artiele abosre a million pattdsf were eiported during the year i» which we visited the phuse. Their eanvaia it «vecy badi Tkeeapper of Siblsna is nek brought to Tagao^ rocky as Maseow receives the whole produee of those mines. Yet the greatest advanta^^ whiefa the t*wn enjoys, is lA bein^ the deposit of Sibenanproduettons. From Orenhuml^ they receive tallow, furs, and iron, whiefa, with the cavatni 9f Astraehan, has only the short passage by laad which in- l^rvenes b^tv^een Zaritziii on the Volga, and 4h» Donya distance of forty English miles,^ where Peter the Or^at projected a canal, and which it was Paul's intention to have completed. A draught of the intended eommuaieation be*- tween the Euxine and the Oa^ian Bea, by means of this Canal, ^vas first published by Ferry, the English engineer, who was employed by Peter for the.undertaking* That is not Uie least interestins pari of Perry's Narrative, whieh relates the condaet of tne Russian government towards him; because it sho>ys the false glare which played about I the greatest sovereign they ever had. Hossia was^ a«d is, * « In winter ih« grefttestfiBheiy 'vs /sarried oq<. Holes are roadein the ioe> atftnaall (lisUttees, and tli&aetpas&eiiundeiir from eaehof ^esetotlienextin suecessioD^by means of a pole,, until a large traet ^s enolosed. Christmas is eonseanentlr a9 bmy a time aa. midsummer} and a a^A -winter Is . ruinous. - Be&er^fi MS. Journal, f A poud equals thirty six pounds of English weight ; hut some writers^ ^ among others, the translator of Pallaa's. Travels through the south Of Russia^ &c. state it as equal to forty . • t Tlie canal of em&mmiiefttkm between the V olea and the Don, aecord- ^ iof to P^rry [^. S.J would faaare been liO.vcrsts; beeause it -weald have * CeUowed the eourse of two other «fimatt rivers ; the La via wMek fatta into the Dob, and the Caraisbinka, which falls into the Volga ;; but the seelkm <- fiir the eanal would not much exceed twoaules. " Upon these small riYeK0>^ . any 8 Peny^ ** sA&ieeawere tobe iplaeed, to maifie diem nav^ble : and a eanal of near fovtr RussianiD3ea{^equaito two and one tturd nalea fii^lidij to be cut thft>ugli the dry land, where the said rivers cora« nearest to- < fedicr." A work like this would not long be ia sfliKtnA Jaar-S»8lan#. a3fe clarkb's teavels im tartart. and ever will be, that point in the ^reat circle of society^ ^vhere the extremes of meanness and magnifieence unite* Peter the Great, shuffling with his engineer, to evade the payment of a few roubles, is the faithful archetype of all the tsurs, tsarinas, princes, and nobles of the empire, who would not seruple to rob their own valet de cJiamhre, actuated by the same spirit which induced their heroine D as hkof, after losing thirty roubles at cards, to send thirty of the royal aeadeiny's almanacks by wi^y pf payment.* They are a people who cannot be truly appreciated, excepting by those who have not only actually resided among tnem, but who l^ve seen them when removed from intercourse with civi- lized na ions, and devested of that external varnish so for- cibly alluded to by the lord lieutenant of the county of Wasa, in the extract annexed to a farmer page of this volume.t Perry hardly expected to meet with credit, when he gave his humble representation of the hardships he sns* tained, inasmuch as it effected the integrity of so lofty au individual; but further acquaintance with the country has long reconciled his simple narrative with all our notions of the people.^: An Englishman will probably pause before he contracts for employment with any future potentate of Bussia. The canal has never been accomplished, neither is it likely to be so, without the aid of talents, which, being exotick, the Russian government may find it diilieult to procure. The Calmueks form very large settlements in the neigh* hourhood of Taganrock. Their camps were numerous at the time of our visit ; and both Calmuck men and women were seen galloping their horses through the streets of the town, or lounging iu the publick places. Calmuck women ride better than the men. A male Calniuck on horseback • looks as if he was intoxicated, and likely to fall off every • See j^emoira of the Court of Petersburgli, by Segur, vol. II. p. 130. t Page 194. 4 '* In the mean time, bis lonlsbip \_Jlpra3nn, the lord chamberlain^ liptOQ his return to MoBoonr, informed me that he had orders from the «zur to pay me my arrears, and he gave directions to his deputy to bring in the account of what was due to me ; so that I thought myself now sure of my money: but the next time I waited upon his lordship, in discourse be tuld me, that his majesty was so taken up witli the aftiurs of tbo army / in Poland, that it would, perhaps, be a long time before -he would come , again to Moscow, and have leisure to go and view the place) and give Iiis ' orders, kc. and pleasantly asked me, wiiatl would do with myself in the ' -meaa ^VM.**^rmryU JSttite ofMunia, p. 19. SHAKES OP THE 9£A OF AZOF. 2^ ijknf^ifktj tlioagh he never loses his seat ; but the women sit with more ease, and ride with extraordinary skill. The c^eremonj of marriage among the Calmucks is performed on horseback. A girl is first mounted, who rides off in full speed. Her lover pursues ; and if lie overtakes her, she heeomes his wife, and the marriage is eousummated upon the spot; after whieh she returns with him to his tenh But it sometimes happens that the woman does not wish, to marry the person by whom she is pursued, in which ease she %vill not suffer him to overtake her^ and we were assured, that no instance occurs of a Calmuck girl being thus caught unless she has a partiality for her pursuer. If she dislikes him, she rides, to use the language of English sportsmen,^^ neck or nothingf^^ until she nas com- pletely escaped, or until the pursuer's horse is tired out, leaving her at liberty to return, to be afterwards chaced by some more favoured admirer. We visited one of their largest camps near the town, and found ihe earth all around their tents, covered by the muti- lated carcases of dead rats, cats, dogs, suslicks, and marmots. The limbs of horses were placed upon upright stakes, and drying in the sun. Their dogs are fierce and very numerous. A dreadful storm had happened during the preceding night;, and we found the Calmucks in considerable distress, owin^ to the havock which the tempest had made ^among their tents, some of which it had unroofed, and overthroMn many. Their high priest, in a yellow, dirty robe, was walking about to maintain order. To each tent was affixed asmaU fla^-staff,tha ensign of* which was of scarlet linen, contain- ing, in sacred characters, the written law of the Calmucks. By means of an interpreter, who accompanied us upon this occasion, we were tola tliat such banners were always erected in times of any general calamity, as preventions of theft and intrusion upon each other's property. Most of the flags we examined were torn, and others so much effaced by use, that we could only dircern some of the written characters, yet all were sufficiently perfect to convince us of the extraordinary fact, that they were manuscripts, beautifully written upon coloured linen. It was, therefore, highly desirable I'u pro- •ureone of these interesting documents ; and we ultimately succeeded, although the acquisition Was made with consi- derable difficulty. At first they would not suffer us even to touch them 5 but being told that we were strangers in the land, that we came from very distant, western countries | and that we were not subjects of Russia, they entered int«t eonsultation with each other; the result of which was, that if we would pay the priest for the trouble of transcribing^ afac-simile of one of the banners used in the camp shoul^ he brous^ht to ojnr quarters in Tas^anrock. This manu- script^ fairly written on scarlet linen, was accordingly brought, in a very solemn embassy, and with many carious forms of presentation, by a party of the elder Calmuck^ beaded by their priest, the whole party being in their best dresses. I bad been absent, and, upon mv return, fuund these strange looking people sitting upon the bare earth, ia the court -yard of the house where we lodged. As I drew near, the priest, in a kind of yellow frock, made a long speech, the substance of which was to inform me, that their law, esteemed sacred, had never been before suffered to pass from their hands; but as they were assured we were great princes, who travelled about to see the world, and gather instruction for our own people, they had ventured to consign the consecrated code to our use. They moreover desired ufl to observe, that the character in which it was written was also sacred ; on which account they had also brought % specimen of the vulgar character in daily •se among them* Their sacred characters, like tliose of Europeans, read from left to right, and are of the highest antiquity ; these are used in all writings which concern the Calmuck law. The vulgar characters, ^uch as they use in their correspondence, and •^the common concerns of life, are read from the top to the bottom, and are placed in columns. I have used every endeavour, but in vain, since my return to England, to get this curious manuscript translated ; nor has if been as yet decided in what language it is written.^ A gentleman of Taganrock, Mr. Kavalensky, from whom we experienced many other acts of kindness, was our interpreter upon this occasion. He spoke the Calmuck language with great fluency, and said it was by no means diiBeult to acquire. It is frequently used in Astrachan, and thronghout all tha territory of Boeharll, the inhabitants of which are princi- pally Calmueks. I had an opportunity of seeing some whd had traversed those remote and almost impenetrable regions. When I questioned them with regard to Sarmacand, ita once celebrated capital, they described it as possessing Biany remains of former magnificence. Doubtless it also * The Qrlgiaal is ijow deposited ip the Bodkiau Libraij M Oxfortf, ' silORES OF rrf^B SEA OF AZOF. i&23 eontains ihany curious manuscripts; as the Calmaekftar^ so well versed in the art of writing;, and hold certain of their manuscripts even in veneration. They preserve, like all other oriental nations, many traditions respecting Alexan** der. Such, in addition to my former observations, is all the information I am able to afford, concerning this remark* able people, the Hippophagi of Pliny and the more ancient liistorians. Their number in the Russian empire has diminished since the establishment of provincial govern- ments and the division of lands, owing to. their being more confined to limited situations.* Frequent attempts have been made, and arc daily making, to induce them to form a regular settlement. Likc all nomade tribes, particularly Laplanders and gipsies, they are so much accustomed to an iiDControUed and vagrant life, that nothing but extreme indigence can compel them to cultivate land, and reside in anynxed habitatioii. The country near Taganrock is a continuation of those steppes which I have so often described, affording pasture to several thousand cattle. It abounds also with swarms of the iittle quadruped before mentioned, under the name of suslick* ']Vear to the town are small plantations of trees, and par- ticularly some fine oaks, which the late commandant planted^ and which flourish with other large trees near the shore. We also observed crab-trees, and the plant from which the Spanish liquoricef is obtained, in full bloom, the root of %vhich was full of juice, and had a very high flavour. The inhabitants of Taganrock, avoid planting trees dose to their dwellings, on account of the swarms of musquitoes which .would be thereby harboured. The diversity of nations observable in the various inhabi*- tants of Taganrock, is altogether without example. Every street resembles a masquerade. I counted at one time the individuals of fifteen different countries assembled together ; all of whom were not more remarkably distinguished by their respective dresses uid habits, than by the harmony and friendship which existed among them. No one seemed to regard the other as a stranger. In their societies and inters marriages, each individual preserves his mode of dress, and exercises his rule of worship, without making the smallest sacrifice to etiquette, by any alteration in His uatioaal babiti, * See Fall&s's Travels ia Riii«ia, toI. L p. 115. 224} CLAnKE's' TRAVELS* IN* TARTARY. or giving the slightest offence to the parties with whom he is connected. Even the common disputes and petty quarrels^ so frequent in the markets of large commercial towns, ap- peared unknown to the motley tribe who peopled this place j yet Babel itself could hardly have witnessed greater variety of language. The fifteen nations, whose representatives l observed at one time gathered together, were as follow : 1 Russians, 9 French, 2 Greeks^ 10 English, 3 Armenians, U Tui-ks, 4 Nagay Tartars* [^I/amaxotriQ 12 Italians, 5- Calmucks {^Hippopha^f] 13 Malo-Ilussians, 0 Cossacks, 14 Prussians, ■ 7 Germans, la HungariaBS. 8 Poles, ' . " If the commerce of Taganrock should experience any con- siderable increase, we may reasonably conclude, from the present view of its inhabitants, that almost every nation upon earth will have its agent there. The shores of the sea of Azof, from the commerce car- ried on by the Greeks in the Euxine and Palus Maeotis, bring the traveller so near to what may be deemed classick land, that an inquiry after antiquities was not neglected. We conld not hear, howe ver^that any thing worthy of notice had ever been discovered. Tumuli^ so often before mention- ed, abound in all the steppes; and in working the cliffs far the establishment of a magazine or storehouse, where one of Ihese tumuli had been raised, they found in the sandy soil^ of which it consisted, an arched vault, shaped like an oven5 •onstructed of verjr large, square bricks, and paved, in ^ style of most exquisite workmanship, with the same mate- rials. If any thing was diseovered by the workmen whb made the excaration, it was ooncealed ; for they pretend that its contents were unobserved or disregarded. In all; probability something of value was removed from the sepul- chre, as wilt appear by the description hereafter given of a' f "The Nagay Tartars begia to the west of Marino|kol ; tlicy cultivMoii. good deal of corn, yet tliey dislike bread as an article of food. They extendi from Maiinopol to Perecop, along the coast of the sea of Zabasehe. Their tent» differ from those of the Calmuckg, as, being more clumsy, and fieTer" taken to pieces, they are carried aboiit on ears. XhU «uage they seeiik to^ liaveborro-Rcd from the primitive Scythian population. The Nagay tribe*^ train tlieii* camels *o the yoke> for which they are ill qualified, and Vhlch* maetioe Htt&knof^n tiPiQ&g «U tlie Mongol tnbes in Aaia." Heha^B MS.- ^arvufmh , , , . . . • . . . - > .., . ,. .' SHORES 09 THE SB A OF AZOF. ^23 Vtmilar tonvb, opened on the Asiatiek side of the Cimme- rian Bosphorus. Such vaulted sepulchres seem to render trivial the notions which have lately been entertained and published respecting the antiquity of arches. The tumuli in which such appearances have been discovered cannot be considered as posterior to the time of Alexander, if they were not equal in antiquity to the foundation of the Mace-, lionian empire. News arrived while we remained in Taganrocfc, that tlie Cossacks of the Black Sea, or, as they are called, Tcherno- morski, inhabiting Kuban Tartary, had crossed the Kuban with a considerable reenforcement under general Drasko- vitz, a Sclavonian ofl&cer in the Russian service, and made war upon the Circassians, in order to be revenged for inju- ries sustained in eonsequence of the constant plunder carried on by that people in tneir territory. We had long enter- tained a desire of crossing the deserts of Kuban, with a view to reach the districts which lie at the foot of Mount Caucasus, and, if possible, gratify our curiosity by a sight of the Circassians in their own country, whose personal "endowments are almost proverbial. A favourable opportu- nity seemed now to present itself; but even the Don Cos- sacks had cautioned us against their brethren of Kubaii^ whom they described as a lawless set of banditti ; and our friends in Taganrock considered the undertaking hazardous in the extreme. Yet the experience which had so often taught us that rumoured perils disappear when approached, and above all, the desire of traversing an unknown tract of land, fortified us for the undertaking. On the evening of the third of July, having placed onr carriage in a wretched, flat- bottomed vessel, more like a saucer in shape, than a boat, we ventured op the waves and shallows of the sea of Azol". The first part of our voyage was as pleasant and tranquil a9 we could wish f but having sailed through all the Turkish fleet of merchant ships at quarantine, it blew, as night came on, a gale upon our quarter. Our little boat, heavily laden^ with its enormous sail very ill managed, seemed all at onco at the mercy of the sea. The direction given to us was to steer soatheast and by east. The only person on board who had the slightest notion of navigation, was a French refugee at the helm, who preteqdgd he had been a sailor, and now held the guidance of oul^^ssel. By mere accident I hap* peoed to notice- the polar~^ar; and Hs bearing proved that we were out of the course we had been directed to steer. W 226 CLARKE'S TRAVELS IS TARTARY, Upon this our Frenchman vas asked if he had not aeoiupaas* " Oh yes, a very good one,"'he replied ; but instead of asing it, he had kept it safe locked in the chest upon whiehhe sat. The compass being produced, it appeared that we were fifoing due south ; and to give an idea of the ignorance of the mariners in these waters, who are all of them coasters, it need only be mentioned, that our pilot, alarmed by his mistake, continued to turn the box containing the compass, in the hope of making the needle correspond with his wishes. Finding that all was wrong, an instantaneous and fearful confusion ensued. We let go the mainsail, and made aa endeavour to lower it; but the rigging became hampered, and the gale fast increasing, bore the gunnel down ; and the carriage rolling very near over the lee side, we shipped as much Water as we could barely float with. Our first efforts were to secure the carriage from another roll, and, with all our force exerted, to hold the wheels ; while our terrified boatmen, half out of their senses, were running over and against each other. I have heard veteran officers in the British navy declare, that they have encountered more real danger in what is called boatings than in doubling the cape of Cfood Hope during the heaviest gales of wind 5 and I . will venture to say, not one of them, had they been then pres- ent witli us, would have deemed it possible to save our Jivess. We at last succeeded, however, in getting out a couple of anchors , and having lowered and laslied the carriage, so as to seen re it from any violent motion, passed a night, beneath the canopy of heaven, in a state of terrour, almost without hope. As morning broke, we discerned the Asiatick coast, towards the soutli ; but the gale continuing, we eould not v»eigh our anchors before noon 5 when getting under weigk once more, we sailed with more moderate weather, to the promontory of Chumburskaia, in Asia, where we landed our carriage. The village of Chumburskaia consists of a few miserable %vigwams,i\\e inhabitants of which were busied hauling their nets when we arrived. So prodigious was the dranglit of fishes made at every haul, that the few wagons stationed with oxen to carry oft' the produce of the fishery were in- sufficient for its removal. A single haul was sometimes sufiicient to fill two or three of these wagons ; and the fishes thus taken, were conveyed to a place for preparing them, belonging to the owners of the land 5 where, being first salted^ ihey were exposed for drying in the sun. The variety SHORES OF THE SEA OF AZOF. 22^ eaugbt was very great. We saw Ihem draw out Prussian carp, pike, stiirgeon, sterlet, a sort of large bream, fish which resembled perch, but of very considerable size, and those immense crawfish of w!iich 1 have before spoken. The shore at this place w,as covered with a very fine gravel, 45omposeil of shells and sand. Swarms of toads and small serpents were crawling or running towards the sea; the water, though unwholesome, being so little impregnated with^ialt, that the inhabitants use it for drinking, and for all . euiinary purposes. Proceeding towards the interiour, the view is bounded by steppes^ as on the European side, covered with tall, luxuriO'nt plants. Although the distance is small which conveys the traveller from Europe to Asia, yet the variety of new ob- jects which almost immediately present themselves, cannot be unobserved. Beetles of a gig|\ntick sixe, locusts, various coloured insects, large, green lizards, some of which are twelve inches in length, all manifest a change. Having -brought a letter to a Greek gentleman, whose commercial speculations, particularly in the fishery, had induced him to adopt a residence in these parts, we found him at Marga- ritovskaia, another small village four miles from Chum- burskaia, and caused our carnage to be conveyed to his house. He was settled in a small colony of his own coun- trymen, the neatness of whose cottages plainly distinguish- ed them from all the other inhabitants of that country. *' I have retired to this place, " said he, " to be somewhat re- moved from the shore ; as thq natives along the coast are '4|ot to be trusted." He gave us a supper of rice, milk, and pancakes, according to the custom of his country; and we should have felt comfortable in his little dwelling, had it not been for the disgusting appearance of toads, which con- tinually entered, crawling about the floor. Reptiles, vermin, bad air, bad water, and bad people, are among the plapjues which distinguish oriental territories ; but the small district we traversed in this part of Asia, from the mouths of the Don to those of the Kuban, may vie in horrours with any other 1 have since seen. The roads at this season of the year [July] were certainly excellent and the post very well . supplied, but they were said to be full of danger, and cer- tainly characterized by every unwholesome and" filthy ac* c»inpaniment. CHAPTER XVI JOURNEY THROUGH KUBAN TARTARY, TO THE FRON- TIER OF CIRCASSIA. Relays for Horses — River Jle — Cossacks of the Black Sea ^-^Cause of their Migration — How distinguished from, Bon Cossacks — and from Russians--^ Wild Fowl — Sin- gular Species of Mole — Ckerubifiovskoy — Plants-^Rate of Travelling — Turn Hi — Stragglers from the Army-^ View of the Caucasian Mountains — Capital of the Tchbuno^ jkioRsKi — Manners of the People-^heir Vress andExter^ ternal Appearance — Visit from the Ataman — Causes of the War in Cir cassia — Fassa^e of the Kuban — Advance of the Costatk Army — Arrival of the Facha of Anapa— ^ (Ceremony of Concluding the Feace — Circassian Frinces — Feasants of Cir cassia — Dances of the Circassians — iMnguage — Lesgi — Remarkable instance of bravery in a Circassian — Circassian Women — Commerce with ^ the Tcherormski — Skill in Horsemanship — State of TraveU ling in Caucasus^ rj^HE whole territory from \he sea of Azof to the Kubau, B and thence following the course ofthatriver towards; its embouchure, is a continiuil desert, more desolate than the stepper oi the European side of the Mseotis, in which a few huts, rudely constructed of reeds and narrow flags^ and stalioiied at certain distances;, serve to supply horses for the post. Such wretched hovels offer neither accommo- dation nor food. They are often destitute even of any thatched covering as a roof, and supply merely an enclos- I! re, in which the houses remain their stated time, standing in mud or dung. The persons who have the care of them make their appearance when the traveller arrives, from a hole in llie ground : having burrowed, and formed a little subterraneous cave^ in which they live, like the marmots^ moles, and other tenants of the wilderness. We left Margaritovskoy on the liflh of July, admirine the £ne view that was presented of ihe sea of Azof^ and travelled towards the Ae, one of the several rivers men- tioned by Ptolemy, in this part %t Asiatiok Barnatia, aid ^ TO THB FRONTIER OF GIR«A88IA. ^d wbieh it is dtffiealt to identify with any of the ancient nameg enumerated by him. de^ in the Tartar language signifies good; and the name is said to have been applied to the river, because its bank» afford a favourable pasture for sheep ; but the water is brackish, and impregnated with salt. During the first thirty six versts* of this day's journey, we found Grecain, or Alalo-Russian inhabitants. Their number in this district does net exceed seven hundred per- sons 5 yet a full proof of their industry and superiour impor- tance, as tenants of the land, is offered in the fact of their affording to their landlord an average payment of no less a sum annually than ten thousand roubles. The boundary of their little territory is formed by the river Ae towards the south, and the sea of Azof to the north. The river Ae separates thfvm from a verydifferentand very extraordinary race of men, wlipse history and country we are now prepa- red to consider; namely, the Tchernomorski, or Cossacks ef the Black Sea ; more dreadful tales of whom are told, to intimfdate travellers, than even the misrepresentations circulated in Russia concerning their brethren, the Cossacks of the Don. We had been directed to augment our escort, and, in consequence, were always preceded by a troop of armed Cossack cavalry. It is true, the figures of those who oomposcd the body of our own guard did not appear very aonciliating; but we had never reason to complain either •f their conduct, or of their honesty. The Tchernomorski are a brave, but rude and \varlike people, possessing little of the refinement of civilized so- ciety, although much inward goodness of heart; and they are ready to show the greatest hospitality to strangers who solicit their aid. Their original appellation was Zapq- ROGZTzsi, according to the most exact orthography given to me by Mr. Kovalensky of Taganrock; a term alluding to their former situation " beyond the cataracts^^ of the Dnieper, from the banks of which river they were removed, hy the late^rapress Catherine, to those of the Kuban, in order to repel the incnrsions of the Circassians and Tartars from the Turkish frontier. Their removal was originally planned by Potemkin, hut did not take place nntii about nine years previous to our arrival in the country. Their society upon the Dnieper originally consisted of refugee? f L . r . . * Twenty four English Bftilesi S80 Clarke's travels in tartary. and deserters from all nations, who had formed a settlement in the marshes of that river.* S torch affirm s, that there was hardly a lansiiage in Europe but might be found in use among this singular people.f In consequence of the service they rendered to Russia in her last war with Turkey, Catherine, by an ukase of the second of June, 1792, ceded to them the peninsula of Taman, and all the countries between the Knban and the sea of Azof, as far as the rivers Ae and Laba 5 an extent of terri- tory comprehending upwards of one thousand square miles.| They had also allotted to them a constitution in all respects similar to that of the Don Cossacks, and received the appel- lation of " Cossacks of the Black Sea.^^ They were, more- over, allowed the privilege of choosing an ataman ; but their numbers have consideraoly diminished. They could onee bring into the field an army of forty thousand eflfective caval- ry. At present, the number of troops which they are able to supply does not exceed fifteen thousand. Upon their toming to settle in Kuban Tartary, it was first necessary to expel the original inhiibitants, who were a tribe as ferocious and savage as the Circassians. Part of these were driven to the deserts of Nagay, and the steppes north of the Isthmus of the Crimea; the rest fled over the Kuban to Circassia, and became subject to the princes who inhabit Caucasus. At the time we traversed Kuban, the Tchernomorski occu- pied the whole country from the Ae to the Kuban, and from the Black Sea to the frontier of the Don Cossacks. * << These men originally were deserters und vagabonds from all nations, who had taken refuge in the marshy islands of the Dnieper. At the foundation of Cherson, they were chased from their homes, nnd took shelter at the mouth of the t)auube, still preserving their character of fishermen and pirates. Poterakin offering them pay and lands, they re- turned to the side of Russia, and did great service in the second Turkish • "war. They received, as a rewanl, the countiy newly conquered from the Kuban Tartars. They hold their lands by the same tenure, and enjoy nearly the same privileges as the Don Cossacks. They are, howe^?er, much poorer, and more uncivilized, and never quit their eountry, where, indeed, they have sufficient employment. They receive no pay.'excep^tan allowance of rye; and dress themselves at their own expense, and in wtiat- ever colours they choose, without any regard tounifor...it^. The officers, for the most part, wear red boots, which is their only distinction. I'hey . deal largely in cattle ; and have a barter of salt for corn with the Circas- sians. Th ey are generally called thieves. We found them, however, ve ry honest, where their point of honour was touched, very good natured, and^ • according to their scanty means, hospitable." Htiber's M^. Journal, t Storch. Tableaw de Russ. torn. I. p. 62, i Ibid. p. 65. ,- TO TUB FRONTIXR •¥ •IRfiASSIA. 291 The Rassiana speak of them as a band of lawless ban- iVitti. We soon found they had been much misrepresented ; although among a people consisting* of such various nations and characters, we certainly eould not have travelled with- out the escort by which we were accompanied. The road, if the plain, unaltered earth may admit of such an appella- tion, was covered with stragelers, either eoing to the scene of war, or eoming from it. Their figure, dress, and manner, were unlike any thin^ seen in Europe ; and ho\^ever good the opinion may be which we still entertain of this people^ it would be trusting too much to that opinion, to advise any traveller not to be prepared against the chance at least of danger, w;|^ere the t^ptation to commit acts of hostility, and the pofwer of doingso, exist in so great a degree. They do not resemble the Cossacks of the Don in habits^ in dispo- sition, ajT in anv circumstance of external deportment. The Cossacks of tne Don all wear the same uniform ! those of the Black Bea any habit which may suit their caprice. The DonCossack is mild, aflfable, and polite : the Black Sea Cossack is blunt, and even rude, from the boldness and har- dihoofl of his manner. . If poor, he is habited like a primeval shepherd, or the wildest mountaineer; at the same time having his head bald, except one long, braided lock from the crown, which is tucked behind the right ear. If rich, he is very lavish in the costliness of his dress, being covered with gold, s<lvei:,.velvet, and the richest silks, and cloths of every variety of colour; but wearing, at the same tim^, bhort cropped hair, which gives to his head the appearance of the finest busts of the ancient Romans. The distinctive mark fl^faBlack Sea Cossack, born by the lower order among them, of a braided lockTrom the crown of the head, passing hehind the right ear, is retained even by the oilicers, but concealed by the younger part of them, with very artful foppery, among their dark hair. They seemed ashamed to have it noticed; although, like a reliok on the breast of a Catholick, it was preserved even with religious vene.ration; and there was not one of them who would not sooner have parted with his life, than with this badge of the tribe to which he helonged. The custom is of foolish origin : but in this part of the world it serves like the sign among free- masons, and distinguishes the Tchernomorski Cossack from the Cossack of the Don, as well as from every other tribe of Cossacks in the Russian empire. The Tcherno- morski ar« much more eheerful and noisy than the Dob ^nit . «larke'« tratbls in tartary. Gossaeks ; turbulent in their miHh; vehement in conversa- tion; somewhat querulous; and, if not engaged in dispute, are generally laughing or singing. The Cossacks of the Don hold this people in little estimation, considering them as an inferiour band of plunderers when in actual service. But it must be said, the rehernomorski entertain the same sentiments with regard to them, making those remarks which the uneducated and lower class of English do with regard to foreigners ; such as, that " one Cossack of the Black Sea is a match for any three of his neighbours on the Don." The Russian regards both with aversion, and affects to consider them beneath his notice and unworthy his socie- ty, for no other assignable reason than ignoratice or envy. The Cossack is rich ; the Uussian poor. The Cossack is high minded ; the Russian abject. The Cossack is, for the most part, clean in his person, honourable, valiant, often well informed, and possesses, with his loftiness of soul, a very noble stature. The Russian is generally filthy, un- principled, dastardly, always ignorant, and rarely dignified by any elevation of mind or body.* But it is proper to attend more closely to the detail of the journey. At thirty six versts distance from Margaritovskoy we came to th« river Ae^ called Yea by the Turks, aud leia by the Germans, a boundarv of the territory possessed by the Tchernomorski. Just before we crossed this river, \ve passed a fortress of considerable size, rudely constructed 4>f earth and surmounted by a few pieces of artillery. This fortress was originally a dspot of stores, and a barrier against the Tartars. It is still garrisoned. The comman- dant, as we changed horses at Mskoy^ gave us news of the war to which we were travelling. From him we learned, that the allied army of Cossacks, Sclavonians, and Russians, had crossed the Kuban, and had taken several Circassian villages; that many Circassian princes had applied in per- son to the Tchernomorski for peace; that the pacha of * When Mr. liebcr iras in this conntry, his (nend, Mr. Thomton,^the eompanion of his travels, lost his gun; and they left £katerinediira« sup- l»osing it to be stolen ; as travellers in Russia are constantly liable to thefts of every descriprtion. To their great 8uri)rise, however, when Chey arriv- ed at Taman the gun was brought to them. An express had been sent after them, who had travelled the whole distance from Ekaterinedar* to Taman, to restore the gun to its owner ; and the pei-son employed to con- vey it refused to accept any rewai-d for his labour. Such facts as these re- (raire no comment. The character of the people, and their superiority to Uie Russians in every qualification that can adorn human iia4^re» is eon- pletely established. . TQ THB FI10NT1£R Of ClftCASSIA. ^9 Auapa %9^ annoiiiHMNl hig intention of aettng^ ai iiiedtAt»fy and of repairiflij; to the Teheraoinorsici eapital, EkateHne- dara. He cautioned iis to be on onr gaara eoneentiffs^ tho TciierBomonskiy an the route would now be filled with de- serters, and persons of every desoHption from the army ; and, ^bove all tbins^s, be advised im to infrease the number Vf our gnard, lest treacherj might be experienced from th^ menibers of oar escort, fh>m whom as mneh might be appre- ■ fended as from the Circassians. We observed several sorts of s^ame in this day's journey, particularly the wild turkey^ the pheasant, some wild swans, and wild ducks ; also a lani^e sort of fowl as big as a eapon. f n the sieppes we caught a ve^y nneommon species of mole, , To us it was entirely new ; although perhaps it may have been tl^ animal mentioned in the Journal dhs Savan$ Voya' ^eurs^ us known in Russia under the appellation of slepex.* it seemed totally blind; not having the smallest speek or mark of any eye or opli^k nerve. Its head was broad, and quite Hat, like that of an otter; its under jaw arni^ by two very formidaUe Ikngs, with which, when cau^t, it gnashes and grates its upper teeth; It is to tlie highest decree fierce, and, for so«mall an animal, remarkably intimidating^ for though it wilt not turn out of the way^.whlle on its march, it lutes and tears whatever it encounters* It Is of a f^aie ash colour ; and, with theexceptioB of the heftd> much ike the common mole. Parsing the Ae, we entered the territory of the TsohenM- inorski ; and proceeding about four mileo further, we arrived a.t Cherubinovskoy, a wretched village, buil^ of roods, and e^ntaining two or three paltry shops* As we jotfmeyed on * fr6m this place, the post bouses were constructed exactly < after the oeseription given in the beginning of thi»ehapter. "They were totally destitute of any security from th© . weather, consisting only of a few bundles of reeds And Dnao, 'loosely put losether, and liable to be scattered by the slight^ .f#t wmdi Tne wonder is, how they can possibly preserve llveir imttte in (^uch pidccs dnring the winter season, whieji is sometimes extremely severe* We observed several sMget .for travdiljng over the snowf and in these the littendants of « tl»e relays lutd cdtistnteted their beds. * Omelin cdnsidcrcd it as an intermediate link between the twrnaeMiA •tlie mole ; for though, like the mole, it buries itself^ yet its food t» eoofinwl • ' Oii thr sisitli ef J u fy w« aaw iHitltiilg fo«t eofilifioed steppes, 6#v«red by lieaifitftil and iiixitri«,i>t flowers. Among die tal- lest aii4 m^st 8h«wy, appeared the dark Mae Mossoms of tht Vipet^s BugiMs, or EeMmn&tHssimufn of Jaeqaih, and Unlieum tdt Ltnneeas; Thtif StttHct frygonotdes, not known to hmmtnn^ grew iu abitfiftaaee ; and h eommon orer atl Kuban Tartary ^ also thos^ beautiful plants, IHb d^serto- inim9and ^Uinthus CaHhmiano¥nm. We were of course tosied in making additions to ovr he'l^bft'ry ; and the note tabjoined will enumerate the prineipal part of onr aeqnisi- tiiHi.* lite aros^intoes began to inerease, and were very troublesome. The lieat at the same time wa^^ tery ^reat, beingms^lilgh as 96^ of 'Fahrenheit, when est imateaMitli the grealesteaolion in the shade. ' Thrbugbottt all this pitrt of Kuban, a traveller With a light earviage aaay proeeed at the rate of one hundred and thirty Bng^ish miles in a day. With our laden vehicle, notwith- standing (tic numerotts delays oceasioned by search for plants aad animals, we peiHTonned seventy miles in the course of twelve hoars. We passed several lakes, one oif which, from its re^aiil:able appellation, deserves notice : it was ealkd Bey's Eau^ *^ Princess Wnter ;^^ eau being pro- uoottced exactly as by the Fvench, and signifjring the same thiOff« Be^ is a very eommon oriental word for a prince, A vUlage near thi^ lake was called Bey^s em* koy. We not ioetl also some corn nrilis, worked by undershot wheels; dMd ancient tumuli, as usoal, in th^ perspective. Among the birds, swallowtk appeared by ^r the most nnm^rous. One vast plain was entirely covered by swarms of them, evidently ^sembiifig in.preparatioR lor a migratory flight to some father eouiKry. Wild swans, geese, and* ducks, wCre itt greai naaibers^ But by mueh the most frequent oMeets Were the tumuli ; and from their great number 1 should havci lieen inclined to suppose they were oecasioniilly riiised afe marks oi guidance aoros^ these immense plains daring Mn- * A new species of Calendula; also of Jianwiculuf^ and GmI^^Ot^ Crambe Tartnrica — Cerinthe hdnor — Antirrlunvm gemstifoUum — Anj tktmU milltffniiaUi'^Ltttkyrut tubertmU'^Symph^iwH consaiidnm — Sai-i via nemorosa — Galium rubio'idea^-Phlonda tttbero^O'^Xeranthenmm amiuttm, in great vAmwlsmee^-'-^is'ella I}amasceHa''^^ati^gulua lenutfo:^ Hue. — ^Otbci'8, wgU knoi«'a in BriUio, were, Thalictrum mintM (Leased Meadow Uue)^^AgT09iemma G&^/mi^o. (Cookie )—7\z»ac0£»m •vttljg-afv {VBxiByy^Iia7umciUu9 JUngtia (GretA ^]^v*vr^iety*^€ynogiasmm ^d- tuUe (Hound's tongue) — IrifoUum arvense (Hair's-foot TiHifcjU) — Trifi^ Hum ineUUtus lutea. ti^rj^wb^ii ihe||rAiii4it^«iif«re4 bffttow rbmt «jienerer any ope h9i% li^iv Uid jftpeiv.l:he O/pfiiNknuiee #f ft Aepnlaiire |hi4« djteqM^9^if«ttt*tth^cori9t«A^^<Nidisjiiile9iui(l ih« traveller is Ie]i((i<^ vvQAder and pe^^{il^>ki»i$eU' in eai^et«re»«9tf^eni* ilig*Ui# {i{i|>a]ati»ii ul^iieb ««{ipUod the iaimiir-fcr ra«ti«|» the$e.Qaiiierou$ yefttift;ej»:of iiitermQii4,.iis w«U as ikeifto4ie« ih^y sery^^ ta <^r|t«ita; . Thfi BiKifber (Really i«tt«iised>i|«. we dr^w.pcm* to iho Ku)9an ;^ and m tbe last «tiigm he^f» we ;ce8,pbef) ijtiat river, I o«mntod ninety ^jie^ ail at oHee-tn Tiew,, ...,:.:..»'.'. •• . • P TJie ysh^Ae. nf ibe aeU in this (>art «(f the T«htraoim>rKki territory is eov/ered by fine ^idstur e. fwrbac^t, ami sufplioi Jhay /w ali t biei k cavalry aad eattle^ * In our riHiler w« fre* f|ueutly eneouaterefl parties Peliiroifiy; {Whq the war, %viiii %mI. bec^vk difufttwad la Iht^ir vcfipiaetiTa hoiat^ar had liiooK^lit proper to ran^iv^ ^bams^itras. Tbe«e wave all aimtd aimi^ Jarly Io.ouc(ea«ai^^aja4 aaaanKpg to tjke opiman ef t^aani* inAnfbi.n^ af tbe viilaiadifartreaa lapaa tiie Any whe» we tni* tar^ii M^eir tcjrrUaigFy K^i!Ci4u» maah to b&4raa4«ilM the Ctr** <lf^tiiaiis tb^nisalvea. . TMyr (UKMsed na^ havvirer, ▼ery-ra* apeQtf^Uy9 probably aa artatHiat «£ oJir JHunbar, wktch iMd Deaaaagaiaiited frcnn t9iaive.4o t^i^iity; As^Cbrthoatof tka T$cheraomjor9)ci whom weibund in Ibe-diSereiit poathaaaaSy, tbe^ really appea^retl a^ M^ildaa Anerieanaamigea; Ka(VtD|^ thair bodies ^vita naJcad) eiMsapta ahaep'a litde cast aeraal tbair aboiUi)lHrs^»'ith tKa a«ool oit ijm aadaida* Thssf asuallgr aippeared tyinfi;,&oiaa$ tha' orasa, wlale.the kamea fae tM potst were gcasil^.axauad: tiiiiiii^ vaady ta b&aKa^fat when WMtad. , ' We »ow direw near to tha Kabaa, and hafl raaahed iha last post havse bqfare arri«in|fp,at BKkfrie^iNBDA&A^ wliaa tbe.yiew of tlio Caii0a«»an.i]Hiiifitalns;!a|penedH)Mmt]Sv<s* tendii^^iira^arag^t^ul •inaiiivMa4Mlsi ntdge-froni ^aast ta M'estt.. j«ndeai^oai\9d.t4> reeall' a, foraian impression made upon uiy mM in tiie^pn«tt.eb la tlia,At|)s llram An^barf^v anci the reeolleetion served to eonvince. ine, that the rt^ge of Mofint Caueasns has- neither the apparent attitude uor grandeur of the Aipiae, whatever thetr relative heights maf- • <• Tlie catUe bere are lai^«i* and finer than any where in Russia. There are no sheep, not even of the Asiatiak breied. Th^ Cdssack hoi*s(?s are vbat woqld becbUed in Bngland g6od ^fioiHiytf. Their m»fters Yatatt Tory nii»«li tbetr vpe»A tmA harcUriets. lAMording to them, 9 motlei^tely ttpoa faoraoi will go st&fy tersts, or forty miles at fidivpeed, without stopj^ing. They are seldom handsome." ffeber^s MS, JoumaL be« MftMliitl BIberflteiav »e«iebrartd JUmUwIioiawt mA traveller, afterwftrdt informed me, timt lie* eenffklenHt Mnmi Chat in CamasiM higbcr Unm Aftmi Btone •• it h i^er- tainly viti^le at the immense dittanee of twe huadradmHes. Tke enewy f amnnta of ike Atpa are aaen for aday^n jeavaoy • Mere reaekiii(» them, ^litteriag ahove the iine'of dowk oeileeted near their bases i eapeeialijr by «a lm»eller' whe* ^appreaehed the Tivof, where Ihej aeent te tiwt up.aU'aV ooee like a wall ftrem tke plmnaof Suabia. Te ais,iii^d^ who had travelled so Itmf; ih the flats of Russia^ tiie Sauea**- sian monntaivie' were a new and very ittteresiiii^ ai^fc^ <jQiir eyes were fktii^e<l by the unilbraiity of pdrjieluai plains^ and even serene skies, te wi»eh we liad beiiase long awa4«- IfMiied, were* n;kMilyexckanf(ed for die refhhikiai^ wiiadsaC f Jie hills, the fre^ent Omwert^ and tke rolliii^aleads, wbiafc always aeeo»p«By tbenu Treea also began taappeafi i^ii4 tkekai^af fkcRabaaiwaneeovepedwiOi WMda« Theoy^, no lon!^ a attaiieAr,4«aM4 kia itenerable kekd $ and th« wtl*^ low, tM brsnble,* wild rasnberriea, blooniin^«krubs« mii tliiek anderwooA^ ewrtred tke s^ioad, iJE^ing'reli^al iw abvndanee of* wild boaes' and deer. Tke last are eftesi tafcea ' ybon^, ssid kept as tanm animals n the eoKi^^ of the eonnujr* • EaATXRisiBDAaA, or CaUmtimH Oifti tketoapital of tho - Tehemomorski CossaokS) makes a very eatraordiaarp a^. piearanee. It has no resembkmee to a towv, bat tr tmdiar • a fi^ve or fbrest of oaks, in wineb a naAber of a<r^;§iia|r cottas^,' widely separated, are^«ontsalod, no4 oi^ ftom all » ffenenti ohservatloii, bnt even fk^Oas the view -of eaehotkec^ • Th^inhabitalits have ent down and«learad«sflaan(f -astkey eoHM ; bat the sheets, if Uiey may- be^ao oallod,aiid.tWa ' spaees between ike houses, are eoverediwttk dwarf oakovaaA- Ihiek branehes of seiono yet rising from the roots whiok-ara • left in the earth. The antiquity of the tnmali whiekoover all this eoontry, may, in some degroOf be proved, even- by the appearance of (he oaks growin^oo them. We sawsome trees, perhaps, as old as any in tiie world, which were so situated. The inhabitants had dut^ into tke tnmali, to form cellars for their ice and wine ; and, in so doing, found seve* rat earthen vases, deposited with the skeletons which these, sepulchres eontatneil ; but unfortunately they destroyed every thing they discovered. The atr in this metropoUUn fbrest is pestifVrons, and the water of the place very un* wkolrtoma. Fevers, similar to those which prevail near Italjr^ offlicl tli*8e» mtIki rmd^ tene^ li»llie>CAvJroo0, li^ir* ever^ llm air i8r(Mtdfj««i,t^^b*i^ w^* ^ grtnnd i», t^l^tmts^hy iht iMvemid'oS g^dens, tlie h«aUh #f. the iah«« bilaBito'mil4iaile»i>iiifaiiHi$ bift^frlwi ito daoip.fitiiaUiiii^ aad tht ^ioMti^iif ctt«iifttTeimiir9li€0 on tbe-Cip^asmn sicfci of tl^rKji|ba%ijS]BAtcf»iMdava 19 ver^r KiMly 4a 4)e a deska- h\B plai^'fff^rfcsidvMei * The- very • ftmidiitiDa #f the ei(jr baMi tkiie oifi jir flif be jeas pfeti<i«» ta onr arrival ; <o that it atili had tiw apfMranee M' a eoiony newly tmnapartad i4k tb«'wilde9nM9 of Anertea^ ataintaiQiag* a atrag^e a^att aU 4iie»<}ii«M>l«8 op]M«ied ta it,^ra*i iaboapifiibia aatiTasy itH Ce^ftMe z^vmndftf aii4 a» iHmbaiiaAaiar aliataia* Thu MTsoi tb««mMlitii»ite-w«re vealer Aha* aor. beat. EaglisAr e#lla,Q^^;' < Bmeli -awnfer fBmmtt&A a lan^aaraabalara bia doi^rC to* whiebF aa* av^aoa of the fimat om8<c«i^aeted $ alsa ao ^djaiaiiMB^ ^idaa, ia«wfaeteh ira aatiwd iba vi8a» llie wa<i^ tarnveian^ aad l^e coodmber. Theaiinflower blaaaia tpaoCaf iia*ilai^«rrery «vlieiie9.witb»tit eallif^tiaa^ nad many plaiata ftnaA fvaiy iormiP ^reenhonsea ara tha vacdt of the plaiii* 'E^ eiltinate^ffanK.a pMxtaitty ta Iba movnUuBS, ia httmid and eloady^ agitated by frequent and violait windtf with thdndary^uiii aaddeii taaipaitiMHtf raittt. Ia tbaff new •ettiemeat^ the Teheraomarftki »tiU displajr tkaemaaviamiaivand mode 9i life which thqr praatiied befbae tkif^y migmiad fraat tha Dnieper. Py thia aieaoA the €ii«a88iaa9y amiavaa thoiaaf the Busaiaiis wha live aaion^ tlasia, ar aearthaia, are inilraated ia maay daAeatiek arta ef eafalbnaiid«leatiltae«t ta whaahthey were belbce 8traii>* g(A*8« Getebratad^as they jufttly are for iheir skill ioharse^ wwohip^ «hay aakaowfcsdge theoMalves ialeriour in tli^ 1 respeet ta^ the Cir^aaaiang^ wlmte lif|ht bedie% lightly a^r eaataadf aa theHe«teat*^haTset ia the watrld, ouUtnp theai itttbeehaae. Yei I knew net a^oMra interesting abject thaa a €a«sa^ af the Teharitomaraki mauiited aad e(}aipped for war. It i« ifaea aaly tbeT may be said to exist, aiMi in their iMitiye eleoieiiti brandishing their laag lanaea in tite air^ beadiag, tai»fiiiig<^ or haittng saddenly when in full speedy with «o nHiahn^aoeAil attitade, aad saefa natural dignity^ that the: ha r^ and big ^y^f geem ^ one aniaial* The reins of ^fernmeal are eattrety i» the haiida of ihe^ ataaiati aad hifi aili«>ers« The»e wear th^ most tbeatrieai aad' tfhtmry ilresias whfeh are lHlawa;tx>^atty paofda in M^ whab X2 2^ •LARKB^ft TnA.V&L& 'l!t ^TA&TAIMr. ^orfd. Tltelr breasts mre tmt9^ wkb- eteiM tofi^tld and hiee. Their s&lyr^ i« TviirUli, their boots ef nii Ar^yellMv eolonred katlier, their eap of blaok^ v«rlt«t, oriam»t#d wkh lace ami silver chains, or fine WaekTarlftrlan trMrl^.tftlfeen. from lambs in aii embryo stftte^ and the. waist; bMiiidl.^ii»tk ailken saihes^ Whteh sapport pistols of thenios^iiostly .utark^-. mamiltip. A smalt whip^ with- a short loalbeifD tkowyis. attaehed to their little finger. The lower extremitii. of Sietr lanee in snpported by the right foot ; md fromthe^Hiirdar fiask, whteii bangs iv Arotit^ are suspended eilreriooiw md other trinkets. ■ ' * . r .: Oa the eteof ng of our armal, tfae'a;taiiiaB waked ufMftits with a parly of offinrers; One of the hest%ooses im the pliiae hadlieen previoasly «tlK>tt«d to ear usoy which they demnsd us to eottsider as our own, and deolhred'theosselv«»^rea(ly.to render ns any serviee in their pmver. Tke alamandien in- formed us, that the paeha of Anapat, with several loftlhe prin<^s of CrreasMa, bad erossed the Kuban, and pitolied their teatson the northern side of the rirer, siting for peace with the TehernoMorski ; that a eonsidetable part of the Cossack amy would mareh to give then a mcoting in. the moroing) and adjust the prelimrnaries ; «.ii4 as the ootvmoiiy Idight amose ns, he very kindlyoffered to'inohide4is among the persons of his suite ^ to whieh propomiwe. readily tssenled. * : ■ The history of the war in wliieh they had been a^Tseivlly engaged is as follows : The Cireassians, in their aootnnal ineuraions, had for the last three yearn eomimtttedtnawy de- predations upon the territory of the Teliernomarsfci; not only stealing the eattle, but* sometimes bearing otfihe inlia- hifants. The Teheniomorski applied lor the enpevour <€or permission to punish tliese marauders^ and isr a reealoeee- Bient. General Draseorrts was aeeordingly seat^ wslh a party of troops and some artillery, into the Kubttn« -At Aire o'eloek on the morning of iPriday? Jtfne the jenthythe army, eonsisting of four thousand fife hnndred men^'iaelud- ing two regiments of regulars, sonerpieees of artillery, and the efaief part of tlie Cossaek army stationed in «ad near £katerinedara, began to advance, by erossing.the rirer. This undertaking was suC&oiently ardoons to have daaated better disciplined troops. The &.abail is broad and very rapid ; and a few eanoes, with one ftat bottoawdhai^^Aras all the aid Mrhieheould be pruonred for this purpose* Gen.- eraL Draseovitx hmeetf ats«cie4aie tm had >Ae9«r.aeon.jMiy . UiinG^ ^faal totbe spkut aiKla)»erity -^iUi 'wJij/ehtbe Ca%: 9a0li eavdlry^ whfQ Iml ike iinj^^ receiivod the^rUer to march^ Theypkiigediiah^tftQftMuk. into.Uie torreHUaoj sw«jn to^ tlie oppoiite sborev TJie passage was Ue^ii, as 1 have •taie4^ «t-<iivMr ra Ihemoini^^; aqcI ky lour o'ejoek iu the i^eimoilii'lhe^wfaole army had eroMed, whiehy ooDsidering 1^ want of 4>rof»ev .boats ana other eooveoiepees, and the )^at rapidity of thftjoarreiit is wo^ef ful. By niue o'clock jm the Mdde evciiii«s» the attack woa coimiieDQed. A small fpar^ooiwittiBg^^omyof «iK9)Uof th^ Cireassiaq eiuurd, were Aurprised in. the very onset of the march, of whicli two were tii«fv «n4:theiMhti8> fled, to g^ve tbealarjo. The first ttbptitfe Mow fi«««i struck by therCirca^sians^ who attacked ^fradvaueed fl^|iir4«fihe ^osflack tUkvalry,. taking eleven of the Gosoack ^Mr^estandafew prisoners. General Orasco- vttB than delaalied a body of .Cossack^ to reeonnoitre, who found Uie Cirenaotacus in |)Osoession of a stropg liold and prepi^rod'foraliack. . These (f^ave the Cossacks a very warm i«fleptio.99 batlheigeiieral perceiving it, eausf9<lsoiiie pieces of artiilei-y^lo bear- upon his opponents* The noise of can- noQihM Dwer bielbve been heard in Circassia: the rocks of Ganeasus repeMed ti>e dreadful uproar of the guns ; and ^c .na^oo, at thfi'V^ry •oiindyfled in.^ll dii-eetions^ The Rus- BtaB^ajriny^rapiiUy advanciiig, burned and destroyed eight of the villages, took eight thousand head of cattle, besides a «|fuiniity of arms and other valuables* The number of .the dead on the side of the Clircassians. aroouuted to thif tv isevoa ii^ <Mie village,; and nearly ^ equal slaughter took .place- in all the others. T^e Russians lost only ten OossAcka, who were made nrisoners, but had nut a n^an tkilled, fknd very few vt^oundeu*. The number of the Circ^- aian .frriooaers jn-^ not^gr^at^for so desperate wa^ their .valour, Uiat theiy>prelerr^ b^.Qg ^ut to pieces rather to an surfendef. The first overtures ior peace were made by the arrival of saaie depuiien from th^ Circas^iaue, demanc^ng the raason of the war. Tlie answer given by the Cossacks is-cwrieus^ as it serves. tP ei||l to mind similar laconick'ex- .pitessioask . ^^ J^ou have pLa^d your g.^mbQlsy^^ said tjiey, ** in.imr territory Ui^se.mw^ years : we therefore comejora Mttk »pwt in yofirs*" Thi^ answer beiug carried to the priaoes of tliOi eooiUry, they came, in great numbers tO;Sue thi^ Ciiosoeko for quarter wmI peace. To aid this request, a seoretty . of, bread soon preyaiUd among the eomoined .•&co«».af Rowans Mi Cosfn^f a^d Ihe wat«r of the- S40 •lAiiKfi'* ^ick^Li *r^ tAikTMir.' eotentry being bail, they MfeEted i^radltidlv lo^flirAitte Kubooy where fhey were met by the p&cbA of Anapa^who, with a sreat retinue and moeii ceremony, eawic, itf the name of the Tarki^h i»ovemnieht,to!kiteteedefbr the Clreasiriaiisjr offering himself, at the same time, a pledge fbt* the seritrfty of their future coAddet To strengthen these assvranees^ he accompanied the Cossaeks and ftussians aei'ots th^ Kuban, and entered Ekaterinedara, iiffft was Oot ]iei*nHttod to remain there, on account of theqnarstntine. ' Hewas'^ttf- fered, however, to pitch his tent on the -Coisaisk side of the Kubati^ close to the river, ^rbm thence he passed again into Cireassia; and assembling the prihees of-ihe eoantty, made them take a solemn oath of peace ami friefidship wUk the Tebernomorski ; but the latter^ not being satisfied witb the report of these proceedings, insisted that the s^ame oa^h should be publicly repeated on their side of the fiver.' It was for this purpose that the pacha of Anap^ had asafn returned, bringing with liim the most po\<^erfbl of tfte Cir- cassian princes, who now waited upon the northern bank of the Kuban, to go through the required ceremony; At nine o'clock on the following morning, the 8th' bf7ttlr, , general Drascovitz sent his droSci^ escorted by a party of armed Cossacks and an officer, to say the ataman was wait- ing for us to Join his suite in the proca$sron to the pacha of* Aaapa's tent by the Kuban ; and that many of the princes of Cireassia were there, ready to take the oath of peace. We drove to head quarters, and arrived as the grand eaval- eade, consisting of the ataman with a numerous esooft of Cofisack officers, and delegates from all the troops of iht^ Cossaok army, were proceeding to the river side, distant only half a mile from the town. I never beheld so fine a sight. The dresses worn by the officers were more beantt- fuT than the most magnificent theatres display, exhf biting every variety of colour and ornament ; while fheirhigh bred horses, glittering in embroidered housings, and prancing with flowing manes and tails, seemed conscious of the war- like dignity of their riders. Several Cossacks darted by as, on the fleetest coursers %ve had ever seeu, to join the caval- cade, in front rode the ataman, bareheaded, in a dres^ of blue velvet, with sleeves andtrowsers of scarlet cloth,' very richly cjnbroidere*!. From his shoulders loosely fell a ricm tuaick, lined >vith blue silk, a:t J fastened back by gold bnt* tons. His boots, like those nf all (he other officers, we^e«f red leather; and by fan side was ' smpemied a broad-aiid ^%.9p^e9 in ft $JbatIi of red yelyet,riehly emliossed whjk ^ol(l< an J stlldli^ »itU turquioses, Of\ each side of him! rode a|i^rtyqfbi$priucipa( officers and behind followed all ilu^ Jtcw^vof p^e. CoiS£i(ck ai*n);^» In mo$i sumptuous dresses^^ oiirliing there foaming; And neighing steeds. AVewere, by, the atf^in^^'s pxders, placed in the van of the pro^e^sion; and soon arpiving^.pn.ihe high grounds which form the nbr^ thiernbauk of ^li^ Kuban, beheld the jcncampment of (he T;irks and Oirea^ians. on a small flat^ close to the water's edge. : ^i'Jif: paehat, gnrraunded fy bis attendants, was seat- ed iQ i|is |;^a4 smoking,, wiili^the awning drawn up on all side^. He was attended by a Tiirjcish courier from the pQtlttp lii«!t|W.Q.df«^oman or interpreter^ and several of the »06t powf&rfttl Cirtta$siafli princes, dressed iu the savage and exlfat^r^il^vijii^^iu worn by Uie different tribes of Monnt CMMa^a^usoiiif «f ^kieh will be hereafter more partienlarlr aiilioe4« . M|ion tlie opposite shore appeared a ver^ eonsid* lerabltt p|il)titiido..of (he Cireassians, eolleeted either by osricfi^i or the hope of bartering with the Cossacks, when the terms of jieaee should be eoneluded. The greater part of thefM retaMuaedat 9k, distance from the rest, with eviaeiit oantioii aoid nustriist, as if aneertaiii what termination' the hiisi«es8.of the day might have^ As soon as the Cossaek" eavalry inado ita appearance, the Circassian deputies' rose^ kbA oi^ioe io the entrance of the pacha's tent, who was seea' an front of tiie party, bearing iA his hand a small tuft of oamnielV hair fastened to an ivory handle, with which he was occupied in keeping off the mosquitoes. The Cossack arm^ hatted iji|ion the birowoTthe hill ; and all the cavalry being dismoiiiit^i were drawn up in two lines parallel to the' river; in front q# which appeared the Cossack soldierft,^ 8la«diQ|0 bjr their lances. Tue ataman ' and his prineipilt ^IbMrs rode down into the plain before the t^nt^ where« having alighted^ their horses wi^re taken back, and they all advanced (lareheaded towards the paeiia. We aecoinpanied them 5 and being stationed by the ataman, near his person, understood, by means of our interpreter, all that passed upon the occasion. The preliminaries began by an apology from the atamilii,' for having kept the pacha so long waiting. «< Your coming,'^* replied tlteoaeha, ^' is for a good purpose, and therefore may Imve demanded consideration: it is only bad things which are rashly hurried over." 'Md OLARK£'$ TAATKUf IK ^TARTA^X* •doornail. ^^ Have yoa explaioed to the CineaisiAP ^Iqcm^s, that wQ are not satisfied with oath a of peace made by theai, ia their territory ? We must bear testimony to their attes-, t^tioas here, in our own laml.^' ' Facka. ^^ I h$ive made this known tlirou^hout all the. Caucasian line; and sevenil of the most powerful princes of the country are now present, to answer for the rest oftlieir. Coiintryinen, and for ibemselves." Ataman. ^^ Have all those who are not present, as well at these their deputies, taken ^the oath of peace on the othi;r. dde of the river?" Paeha, " AJl of them. iJ^nlessl hai been present pf^pn the occasion myself, and had actually witnessed it, I woi^ld. liot venture to be i^sponsibie for their peaceable behavlotir|. which I now promise to be." Akvnum. ^^ Your ezcelleney speaks of a responsibility^/ whieh is, perhaps, much s^reater than you iniaq^ine. Hitljierto their princes have paid no respect to the obHji^atioii of an oftth, whieh hus Ineen violated as often as it w^ made». How many h«v« encased to he bound by the oath, whiuh is «ow to be repeated r' Pmokm. << rifty ; Hnd of these, the most powerful ara tbe. fviiiees who have attended me upon this occasion." Ataiman. ^^ All our Cossack brethren, whom the Cireaa-. mas have made prisoners, mast be restored, in failiyre of, whioh the war will* eei'tainly be renewed ; and ia eom«. plianee with this demand all our prisoners will be givf^^ SoHie oihereottversatioo paued uiiieh I \)vas not able to eoUeet, from the rapidity with whieh it was delivered. As seoaoft the pveltmiRariee were eoneluded,, whieh involved ▼ttpy little dieeaesioB, foi* the Circassians seemed willinf; to > aeeedetoaoy propocttioa made on the part of the Cossa^^,. the paeha took mm his bofiem a manuscript written vpoo . liaea^ o» whieh €he Cireassian princes severally laid their liands, repeating th? necessary owtli^ whieh promised to the Cessaeks the andislurbed pessessioo of all the country oa the northern side of the Kuban. What the nature of the naaascript was we eoold not learn, except that it eoataiaed eertain passages of the KoraA, and other sacred writiitgis* The whole ceremony ended by the pacJia's writing with a. reed, th? names of the parties eonceraed in this traaaae* tion. TO ftfE ^SOKTIBR 09 eilt«ASXA. MB ' *Tbe'extto^ol*<linary appearance of the Cireassias prineei drew mf attention entirely to them. Their eloihes were aa^ rflkss^das any English begnr's, and their ueeks and le^ ottitebare. A few only had slippers of red leather oft their feet. Their heads were all shaven, and covered oH the erown with small seuU caps, laeed with silver.* In their belts they had' lai^ pistols ; and by each of their sides were suspended a sajire and a knife. Ball -cartridges, sewed singly^ were ringed in rows upon their breasts. The sleeves of their jaekets being worn ont at the elbows, plates of silver or of steel armour, inlaid, appeared- through the holes, which they Vo]*e next the skin, covering their arms, and otherwise eoncealed by clothes. A coat of mail covered also the breast and the rest of the body. Some of them wore a sort of iron shirt, made of twisted mail, or rings so closely interwoven, and so well adapted to the form, that every part of the body was covered and protected, except the face, Pallas, in his . Travels through the South of Russia, has represented one of their princes on horseback, covered by this kind of ar» ntoor.f A bow and quiver are fastened by straps rouiMl the hips* I broaffhtaway one of Iheir arrows, whieh had aetnally passed throueh the bo^ of a Cossack horse, an^"^ killed the animal on the spot. The Ctreassians use the bow with verr great skill, never making any random shots, hvi ftfire of the aim before they let the arrow fly. The Rumian army dreaded very much those destinietive weapans,'a8 thej arer used'byrery skilful marksmen, who, like riflemen, sta- tion themselves ia trees, or amo9g rpeks, ip the passes of mouiitains, to pick out the officers. 'Jk circumstance not worthy relating, if it did not illustrate thie manners and character of the different people then assembled,, afforded coasideriible amu«emeB| to us, who were merely spectators upon this otoasion. When the paehi received the ataman with his attendants, he %vas evi« * TJieaMMtAiMie3itjC0VeriD|^af the Ti^ftd worn in Greec'e wta ^xactly 6f the siame sliape, resemb^ng the scalpt «woni by the AiAerfeatis fromtbe p(t4fion6i*8 they make it^ war. j It is worn beneatli th$ tqrlMiii ftU over the eMt* l%e Cireassiaiis of nrnk wear it without anv.tMrban, It 49 MiU worn . in the Qamo manoer^^ nokAf Mhabittfnts of modem Greece ; and its use « m that country long jjxmx to its Conquest i>y the Turks, agrees very weH with my ' grandfather'* opinious aonperoiog the griffin of ^e Getiek^ CMtAtk, an4 Greeian pqople. See Connexion o/tke Aomaa^ ^^lupon, tutid t See Pdlas's Travds thmgh th« Sontherti Pktivifieet, &c. Vol. I. p. the river eov^ened with ac^ied men, aad the lances f>f the Co»8aek» raoged Wke a forest ij4»g the miitheni «id£ of the Kuhan^ he. eo«ild not conceal his anxiety and aneasiueas* His own Rianoers were remarkably affable aadpeJite; but he viewed the troops aad offieers of the Cossack, army hy whom he was surrounded, as a set ^f lawless plundererst fqr whose eondnet there «ouId be no lon^ aeonrity. . Doubt- lesS) he had heard as many tales of the barbarity of the Tehernomorski as we had befQre.,and wished himself Agnn safe npon his divan in Anapa*. If we . had be^n filled wiih sueh idle fancies by the Russians themselves, it is but rea- sonable to eooelude, that the Turks, who consider even the Russians as barbarians, must necessarily esteem the Cos* sacks as a set of ferocious banditti. The reader may tbtn Imagine what the astonishment of the pacha was^ when, upon beings induced by euriosity to ask the ataman from what country we were, he was informed we were English gentlemen^ travelling for amusement among the very people whose appearance gave him so much uneasiness, and wlmm nothing out the most urgent necessity could . Iiave caused him to visit. He seemed to reeain all his camposare by this intelligence, speaking ve^y higlily of our couutrymen, and saying, that the obligations England had emifcrred >upon Turkey would never be forgotten. We took this opportunity to inquire respecting the state of the. countries bordering the south coast of the Black Sea* He described them as full.of diBleulty and danger for traveUers $ that many districts were infested by merciless robbers f and that a journey to Constantinople by land from Anapa, would at least require three months; whereas, by water^from the same place, it might be accomplished in four or five days. > ludeedf the inhabits^ ts of Taganroqk have performed uie voyage within, that period, including , the additilonal p|is« sage of the sea of Azof, and the straits of Taman. A« soon as tlie oeremony ended, the pacha embarked wi^ his suite, in a canoe so narrow, that two persons could not sit abreast ; ai^l^. with more adventure than might hav« been expected in a Turk, hampered as he was by his eni- brous dress, he squatted on some weeds in the bottom of tM vessel, and was soon paddled into .the middle of the rapi^ torrent.. Their canoes are all made of one piece of wood, being merely the .traut of a large tree scooped for the jific- pose. From the numbers hnddled with the ^eha^ we ttpeiMtvtTjhi^Mfitto 8e« tbe 6aftoe sink i>r irptet, ^ it« Hge t«l6i le-rerivlth the irirt^. Tfwj were out ef si^kt, fiowei^ef,in an irtstant^ile^cciidTn^the eiirrent willi amaz- ttt^ veh^ity, nibd dbapjiearfng by the liirn ef the rfrer. *We then wertt to examine mote mtftutely the eroAvd vf Ch*eas8iati9 ofalotwrorilef, nnmhers i»f whom were piws- ingtheKahiindi their ea^oes, and eoHeetinf^ on tJte Ras- •nxm side. They feanre to e%ehang;e Htood, honey, and arms, for «alt,*aecordiO|5 t rr their if snal praetiee in times of peaee. Her€? we sawisom€of tfie wtfdest«io!irtta4neer9 of Oaneasti.i, alt Iff whoOt were eontpletely armed, and ail robbers by pro- -f^isio^. The representations made of the natives in the noathseas, do notpifeHifehttmitii nature in a more sara^ #tate than it appears am^mt^ the Giroassiaiis. Instructed 'from their infaney to eonsider war and plunder not only as *a necessary, bot as an hononraMe oeeupation^ they bear in itheir eotmtenance a most striking expression of ferocious •ratonr, of cunning, «iispieion, and distmst. If, while a Cir- easthiQ is standing behind you, a sudden retrospect betrap you hl^'fefttnrGsr, his brow lowers, and he seems to meditate some desperate act; but the instant he perceives that he is observed, his eotintenance relaxes into a deceitful stmie, and lie puts on the most obsequions and submissive attitude ima- '^nable. Their bodies, especiallv their legs, feet, and arms tire, for the most part, naked. They weaa* no shirt, and only ft pair nf coarse, ragged drawers, reaching a Kttle below the knee. Over their shoulders they carry^ even during the greatest heat of smrimer, a thick and heavy coat of felt, or the hrde Of a gvrnt, Mith the' hair on the outside, which ireaefie^ behfw tliewaist. Under this covering appears the sabre, bow and quiver, mnskef , and other weapons. The feasants M well as their princes shave the head, and cover it wtlfh the senll-eap, as before mentioned. Difference of ttnk, indeed, seems to cause little distinction of dress among Chem, except that the peasant further covers the head Tihd shouhfers with a large cowl. The beauty af fea- 'tAres' and fbirm, for which the Circassians have so long heen celebrated, is certainly very prevalent among rhem« Their nosei^re aquelifie, their eye-nrows arched and regu- lar, Iheir mouths small, their teeth remarkably white, and their ears not to large nor so prominent as among the Tar- tanr; ih6tig1i,frotn wearing nie head shaven, they appear ^ dhadvmntaige> according io Bnro^ean notions, l^hey are well shaped, and yerj U^% limhei^htif^ jfinimUf of the middle size, seldom exceeding five feet ei^t or nine inches. Their women are the most beautiful perhaps ia the world, of enchautins* perfection of eountenaoe^ ao4 rery delicate features. Those which we saw, anaw^uck were the accidental captives of war, carried off wj^ thpi^ families}, were, remarkably handsome. Many of t,heiiu though suiTering fropi ill health, fatigue aqd grijcf, »M under every poss^ible circumstance of disadvantage^, . hr«i4 yet a very interesting appearance. Their hair is generally dark or light brown, sometimes approachi;igi . to ^l|ifl^« Their eyes have a singular animation, peculiar Iq tlte Qifr cassian people, which, in some of the men, gives an e:ipf^« sion of ferocity. The most chosen works of tne bestpainjl^rf^ representing a Hector or a Heleu, do not display jgn^^ttef tetiuty timn we beheld even in the prison at Bkaterined^inu where the wounded Circassians, male and female, cbar^isa with fetters, and huddled together, were pining in «iek«€pf» apd sorrow. ■ v Seeing that the Circassians %vere colleeted in much gr/satar numbers on the Caucasian side of the Kubxui, we applied t^ the commander in chief for permission to pass over iiUo, their territory. This was obtained with great difficulty | and t ha ataman, accompanied by several armed Cos8ack89>wa« orv- dered t9 attend us. We crossed the river ineanoes;, aa^^ arriving o^ the Circassian side, we beheld the na|ivie«, w«h^ had been collected from all parts of the country, ga^heri^4 in parties along ihe shore. Several of them, having ,a most sayai^e aspect, were formed into a group about t,yro Jha^dr^d yards from the. place where we lanued.< Per^iviog (he ataman aToided going towards them, we. be^^ed that be would allow us that privilege. " If it is your desire," md Jte taking his sabre from its scabbard, <^ you sh^U nat b<i disappointed on my account; but you little knew what^^rl. of people they are. They pay no respect to. treat ieS) not even to tbejr own princes, when they 84:e an o^portunit)| of plunder ; and are likely to do some of us injucy befo|*e w« return." Our curiosity got the better of all fear^ ^itd we^ fol- lowed the ataman's reluctant steps to the place wher« tliey were assembled. Seeing us advance, they hsMstily 9i|i^lohf4 up their arms, which they bad placed against the tre^s A^d .on the ground, and received us with an air of cvidb^ut defi- ance. We endeavoured to . convince them that our uie^ff were pacifiek;. but mattc/^s soon grew more aod m^re nif t L Mvibg^iKS ibey began talking lodd and Vhh ^eat rapiditf. Ko one dF oar party understood what they said ; and the ataman's uneasiness considerabTy increasing, we made ^ignribr the canoes to draw near the shore, and effected #ur retreat. Thinkins to show them some mark of res* peet. andof ouffrfendlly inte^tioHs, we took oflfourhats, and bowed to them as we retired. The effect was very attmscng : they all roared with loud, and savage laughter, and iDoekingoor manner ol' making obeisance, seemecl to invite ifdto a repetition of the ceremony $ and as often as we re- ■ewed it, ike)f set up fresh peals of laughter. The Cossack Affiders, who accompanied us upon this occasion, told us thiLtthe Circassians who lurk about in the immediate vicinity «f the Kuban are a tribe as wild and lawless as any in the « 'lb«{e disirft^t of Caucasus $ and that their principal object ht to'^eize upon men, and carry them off*, tor the purpose of s^fingthiem as slaves in Persia. The cannon on the heights erf^ik&teHnedai'a at that time commanded the whole marshy territory on the Circassian side ; yet it wag impossible to tenfture bven a few hundred yards, in search of plants, w amount of the dan^r that might be apprehended from tl&e ttttiBEbers who remained in ambasli among the woods near the lirer. The hast^ observation we had made disclosed to us a plain covered witt wild raspberry trees, blackberry bushesi attd a f^w iarge willows by the water's edge. Further, towards the sooth appeared woods of consiuerabie extent, fbll of the finest oaks. Beyond these woods were seen the eliltifi of theCaueasian mountains, and the territories which tad been the theatre of war. The mountains rose like the Al^ttie barrier. Sdme of them appeared to be very high, and their-sidei retained patches of ^imw toward the middle of in¥f ; bat, upon the whole, they seemed iuieriour in altitude lb* the Swissr Alps. The passes through Caucasus must be difficult and ihttieate, as the mountains stand close to each efller, and tifefr summits are rugged and irregular. Those li^i^h wbre nearest to Ekaterinedara were not less than twenty-six BngUsh miles distant, and yet very visible to ti^ naked eye. ^ ;: 'When we reiturned to the Kussian side, the Circassians' Wbe lied crossed the riVer, were dancing and rejoicing ou lUfeeifnt of the peaee. One of their vagrant musicians, ex- ereiiling the profusion so nfiuch estc*enied by aill nations iu ti» infaneyof society, and particularly among the tribes vbo ifiimbji MoiiitrCattdisUd, played on a silver flute Called emmH. ' Kmm ttlMiit two feet in hmg^ md IebS onlf tiiNii ftii9Cfr4Mle» towards the lower esfcranBity of the ^nlie. . The mode of blowing thw mtntflnent ie as remorfeolile a* ther •ooikI produced* A small stick kpladed in theupperroad of a ftote^ oaeo at eitkev oitremity ; wbkshy beini^ dtawn oat tar the iei^ii of aa iieh, is presttd by the nerfomifiri ogaiast' 1 ko roof of his moaih. It ts very difficait to eoaeeitw htum - Wf toaeseaa be prodaoed.iR this maaaer, as the p^fhroaeii^ laontb is kept opea • the whole tiaie,' arid he aeoom^aaiea the notes with hifi o wa velee. By the violeai <striUttuip^ of every mosele in his ooBntenaRee, the perforiaaiieo seeauMla' work of gfreat diffieitlty ami lahoBr^ thesoundt all the white- resembling the droniag aoise of a bagpipe« I wished to pa^*-. eliase the tas^roment \^th a qaaatity of toit^ ihtt^j oMiti^y they raeeive tn paymoi^) but itsowoer^.deriviag^ bisiiTeltii hood and eoBsoqaoaOa among his eoitntryaiea eolii^ly fmnif the use of it^ woahl Bot«t)aifeat t» seU ih Tho Ciseassiaaa kaow aoihtfig ofttliemlae of coiDs, uasng them only to adorn their persons*; amd eTsa iMt.thm piM>po«stbey did ttot> soeos dosiroa» to possess the few silTor pieees we oifienHl t«r them^ It is evident that their favoarilemasiBaltaatntiaeii^ ike-etmUf was not always of met al ^ lor ii^Kka the oil vor taha- whioh I have deacribed^ the«Ktutal joiats seen «rpon eaaea aadireeds io the rivers aad-man&es m. the oooatry: hsdheott imkSied by thr aMloer^ Their dances do ant resendila -those of aay other nation* Somethings petfaaps^aearly siawlar may haveheea dteerihed as the praeliee of the inhabitants of the South Btm islaads* Ten, fifteen* or twenty persons^ aU standing, ia a. line, and holding by-eaeh otfaer'a arms^ be§^ laUing*from right; to^ Mt, lifting op their feet. as high. as possiUe^to the measar^ c^ the tone, sad ttttermptiog tke nntfonmtgr of their Biotioii> only by sadden squeaks and exelamattotts* .Nothing eoulil' seem more uneasy than the situation of the perlbrmers in (ho: middle of the row ; hot even these, squeezed ds Uiey warei from one side to tiie other^ testified their joy in the sama. manner, i. fter soake time there was a paimo^ whoa a single dancer^ starting frooi the rest, praneed about in the most ludicrous manner, exhibiting only two steps that oould be assimilated to the moveiiients of a danee^ both of wkiek may be noticed, not only in 6ur£nglJ8h'hornpipe, bat in lUI the dances of the northern nations. The first consisted in hopping on one foot, and touching the ground with the bi*l and toe^ alternately, of theothen Thesecond^in hopping aa ixiielb^ty snd^th^MiuigJIie other MWpeiil^ j» i«i tn toiitel^ tile kouBiiib^ of a stag ; finin. wluoh MinRitlie motioa w^i' m^isally bo^roirod^* and wkoao* name ib NM»4«MM^4b«!- Irisb at t<htf day. A dite'atteatnm lo aatjoaal ilaiie9e:frt"»^ ^iitly ea^i^iks ue to aseertain thepre^'eeft wliiehJiias k%9nt laaie iy any people towards refiaemeiit. The exereise Mself is as aneiewt as th« hiimaa raeo, ind, however variensly modified^ the piopiilar. daaees ef ages the-n^ost remoie* aadi of eootttries the most widelj separated, leay ali h« dediMed from one sommoa origin, which has referenee to^the iotert* eeurse of the oexss, aod is» therefore, more or iHst equiyo*^ cal^ m proportioa as - the state uf sociicijr is -more lor Itao t^Hed hjr the progress of cmluEatioQ** In diflfereat partsof the gocai ahttia of mooaiaiiMi whteht hears the general i^ellation of CaitaaBaatthekMigua|^ are as vario^oas thejM^inoipaitties. Few otUhof Mooat inhahi-^ taiits of Kttha» Tartary are able to oobv^pso witii aa^ rf the Cireaosiaa triboB. Thoso wlisni lie taw near thm rivMr^- spoke a diaki^ so iuirsh and gattural^ that ^it: was- by Sim means pleasing to the ear. Bellas Mya il is iiroheUe, that tile Oit«assian bears no affiniiy la any othel' liMignage,.aadi' that, aeeordtag to Boport, their priaees mid Uidms speak m peonlkr dial^ whieh is kept aeetet from tho eomaMUi^ pc)«ple,- ai^l used ehie% ia their fredalory exemrsiaM.|k Their mode of life is that of professional rnhbers* It migbt bftf^e been said ef the G»eassia% as of Ithasael 4 .^ tte .mil ha a wildmaa rhis hand will faeagaitistjsyery mmiraiAevmrf msa'e hand against hem.?' Those whoiidiahit tW passes ^ the moifiita^'ns, And are not oaonpiicd in .any af^euiturai* employment^ ^peii4 solely oaplBnderforthw.siib8isteaee«'. Tkepetiy prinees^areeonlinnally at war with eaeh other ;: Afid ^e^ery one plnoders' his ieighhouiv The.iohaManteef tke plains' &o eon»pleteiy armw^ite earry en the lahoars oC the field. Fhe erops «re sJso goarded .by armed men. Na €ircfas(iaii f>b^ ean,4here^ore,.eelebrale:tba|ieaeeful oseu.* patifoti of the ploagb,OiT)oewilh theatit is a wwike^pursuit* The smi^er^ seattering> seed, or :the.^rea^ff; wha gathers tha * An IhqnirJ: in'to tli^ airtSqtoitf rin<J origin of w*tiowil dfttites, aa ocmm netted iirHh the histoid df mkukind, wncdd ftwpm H^jvry 6UiWu« object off tiisci^sion; The author qbiic cc)ttect^tl.mat«;rial» ibr that porpo8«« but i|: ^uald remiire .more leisui*c than ia now granted )fim to prepai^e them for the pubfick. « > . . . ' -f fjUhi/aTrHyeUtbroitghtlie Southero iProviacea, &c. Vol. I. p.' 408.' . ^ Geo, 3^yi.ti^ . . Mi #la&kb'8 tayels in tartary. tiiMY#«9^ constantly liable to an assaalt ; ^nd the imple-* Monti of fnidbandvT are not more essential to tke har?est' tiMin th^ earbihe, the pistol, and the sabre.* Of «lt the Circassian tribes, the Lesgi^ inhabiting thie HMRfitains of Ba^hestan, which run nearly parallel to the western coast of the Caspian, bears the worst repatatton. Their very name excites terrour among the neignbooriv^ prlnoifaHties ; and it is used as a term of reproach bv manj of the niEtive Caucasus. Different reports are naturally pro* pUgaled eonceming a people so little known as the Circas- aians in funeral ; and perhaps half the stories e^ncemiog tfce Let^ are without any foundation in truth. All the iuha- hka&ts of Caucasus are described by their en^miefl as.noto*'' mm Ibr liuplieity. and for their frequent breach of faitii f . smd it is tbronj^ the medium of such representation aWtte that we derive any notion of their aharactet*. Bat, plafiia^ annelves amons^ them, and viewing, as they muat do, the ■wf« polished nations around them, who seek only ia enslave and to betray them, we cannot wonder at their oeodnet tovmrds a people whom they consider both as ty- rants and iflMets. Examples of heroism may be observed aaHHif; then, which would have dignified the character 9i tke iMnani in the most virtuous periods of their history. Ammm^ the prisoners io the Cossack army, we saw some of tke Circassians who had performed feats of vi^lour, perhaps luiparalleled. The commander in chief, general DrascovitA, maiBtaiJiedy.that in all the campaigns he had served^ whe- . ther asttiast Turks or the more disciplined armies of £a-« rope, he had never witnessed instances of greater bravery thm he had seen among the Circassians. The troops of other nations, when snrroundedby superior numbers, T^^iLy > yield Ihenselves prisoners of war ; but the Circassian^ while a i^pRfh of life remains, will continue to combat even with a nijHtitode of enemies. We saw one in the prison at fikate* riaedara, about thirty five years of aze, who had received fifteen desperate wounds before he fell and was made pii- sotter, having Ihinted from loss of blood. This account was given to me bv his bitterest enemies, and may, therefore, surely he reliea on. He was first attacked by three of the Cossack cavalry. It was thitir object to take him alive, if possible, on aecoont of his high rank, and the consideration} la whidi he was held by his own countrymen. Evecy endc^/* roar was therefore used to attack him in such a manner i^ * Tbc suBfi remvt is sppluaUe almtit sUoTer the iWUeh ciaplrQ. TO THE F&ONTIIR OF «;i»«Af 9IA« Mi not U es^anger his life. Thk inteiitioii was soon peiccired Uy .the Ciitsasmn, who determined not to surrender. WU1» bis single sabre, he shivered their three ianees at the first onsety and afterwards wounded two of the three assailant*. At ieiifl^ih, surrounded by others who c^ame to their assia- tance, he feH, corered with wounds in the midst id his em- miesyfishtini^ to the last moment. We visited bim in bis prtsoo^ where he lay stretched upon a plank» bearusg the lui^sh of bis terrible woundts without a groan. They haA reeeatly extl%eted the iron spike of a lajoeefrom bis side., A Touo^ Circassian p}rl was employed . in driving away the flies from his face with a green bough. Ail our expreMiom (^concern aud regard were lost upon him : we oflrered bim money, but he refused to aecept any^ handing it to his l^lkifr prisoners as if totally ignorant of its use. In the *same place of conGnement stood a Circassian fe»ale, about twenty years of age, with fine li|^t browift hair, entremely beautiful^ hut pale, and hardly able to sop- part, herself, through grief and weakness. The Cosaaeic' oflMrs stated, that when they captured her she was in eseel-' ]e«t health, but eve r since, on account of the seoaration from her tfosband, she had refused all offer of fooa ; and, as sbo* pined daily, they feared she would die. It may be supposed - we spared no entreaty which might induce the eomma&dor'' in ehtef to Kbetate these prisoners. Before the treaty of - pea«e th^y had been offered to the highest bidder, the women selling generally from twenty five to thirty roubles apieee; sonsewbat fess than the price of a horse. . But we were told it was now too late, as they were included in the list for ex- * change, and must therefore remain unul the Cosaaeks, who i^re prisoners in Circassia, were delivered up. The poor • v^man, in all probability, did not live to see her boaband or her eoaatry again. Another Circassian female, fourteen years of age, who uraa Also in confinement, hearing of the intended exehaoge of prisoners, expressed her wishes to remain where she was. *< CcmsciOns of her great beauty, she feaved her parents wouM geit her, according to the custoni uf the eountry, and that she mi^htfall to the lot of masters less humane that the ODtosai»:s were. The Circassians frequently soil their chil- dj^en to strangers, particularly to the Persians «nd Turks ; and their princes supply the Turkish seraglio* with the int»nt beautiful of the prisoners of l^olh aeies wliialitbey falceia war. . . . , laito vx-Aititi'i raxYBLf tit rxurkkr. ^ In flieir commerce wife the Tchernomorski C'ossaeks? the Circassians bring considerable quantities of wood, atid the delicious honey of the mountains, sewed up in goats' hides, with the hair on the outside. These artielejs thej ex- change for salt, a commodity found, in the neighbouring lakes, of a very excellent quality. Salt is more precious than any other kind of wealth to the Circassian ; and it con- stitutes the most acceptable present which can be offered te them. They weave mats of very great beau^, which find a ready market both in Turkey and Russia. They are also ingenious in the art of working silver and other metals, and hi the fabrication of guns, pistols, and sabres. Some, which they offered for 8ale,"we suspected had been proeureid fron Tnrkey, in exchange for slaves. Their bows and arrows are made with ininritiCble sk^l ; and the arrows, being tip- ped with iron, and otherwise exquisitely wrought, are consi- dered by the Cossacks and the Rossiatis asinAieting incura- ble wounds. One of the most Important accomplishments which the inhabitants of these conntries can acquire, is that of horse- manship ; and in this the Circassians are superiour t» the Co^saeks, who are, nevertheless, jpstly esteemed the best riders known to 'European nations. ' A Cossack may be said to Kve but on his horse, and the loss of a favourite steed is the greatest /amzfy misfortune he can sustain. The poorer sort of Cossacks dwell under the same roof with their horses, lie dotvn with them at night, and make them their constant companions. The horses of Circassia are of a nobler race than those of the Cossacks. They are af the Arab kind, ex- ceedingly high bred, li^htand small. The Cossack i^^iej^- ally acKnnwf edges his inability to overtake a Circassian ^ pnrsdit. The brother of Mr. Kovalensky cf Tagaitrock, hy culti- vatingthe*fH«idship of one of the Uireassian princes, passed dverthe fcftouvtainous ridge of Caucasus in perfect safety and protection. Aeeordingfo his aceoniit,a strai^r, who has iroltfntBriiy confided in the honour of a Circassian, is consi- dered a sacred trwSt, even by the very robbers who wottld cross the Ktihan tn earrj him «off and sell him as a slave, if thev chanced to find in their predatory excursions ont rf their own dominions. Since this aeeotfqt was written,^no of our own conntrymen, Mr. Mackenzie, passed the Cauca- sus, previoos to'a eampargn which he served with fhc Ros- •ian mraijr ^q Persiat His es^port eoibisted sf « haoflred in- fkntry and 9lty Cotsacks, with a piece of artillery. Dannie tfiirteen days spent in the passage, the troops were under the necessity of maintaining a most vigilant watch, and their rear was frequently harassed by horering hordes of C i rcask- sians. The result of ^ his obseryations tends wholly to dis- pute the aecuraey of those of Mr. Kovalensky. According to Mr. Mackenzie's opiaion, no reliance whatever cap be placed upon the supposed honour or promises of a people m treacherous and luirbarousaa those who inhabit this chain of mountaiiw. CHAPTER XVII JOUBNEY ALONG THE FBONTIER OF CIRCASSlA, TO THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS, l^mrantine-^ecQfnd Excursion into Circassia — Departwue from JEkaterinedard — Produce of the Land^-^-Division </ the River — MosqwUoes — General Jippearance of the CItt cassian Territor^-^Watck^Towers — Cimmeriah JBo^- poRUs-^Temrooh-^Text of Strabo and Fling reconciled — Foi^ress askd Ruins — Siena^-^Remarkable Tomh—^nti* qmty of J3irehd$-r^IiLesian Gold Bracelet — Origin , of Templ^-^CEPOB^^Fortress of Tamatt'^Tanuin-^Ruim ofPhanasoria — Tmutaraean^^mphitheetre^^Other Re-r WMins^^Pnlcla VoicaaM'-^tMcrij^tume at Tmnan, I N the conimeree carried on between the Circassians imd . the Tehernofflorski, a sort of qnarantiuQ is observed| trivial kiiis uatur^- i|nd aegiisenlly. guardod. The ex- f hange of eorn» honey^ mats^ woodland arms^.foi'.the. salt: ^* the Cpssaeks,i$ tri^nsi^cted ^without contniat; the wm*ai of tfae^ Circassians beine placed on the ground where thef find the* salt ready stationed for barsaio. • But^ from th# very great proximity of the parties dur ing all this intef> epurse, as. well as the daajger of e^mmuniisating infeetion by k^ndlin^ the di&erent lUliaks .whieh tbey are bartering, the plague,, if it existed in Circassian might very readily be eoia-' mauieated ia. the .'tchero^moiskii It 14 .true«. that, ei^eepit tut JBkaterine4cM'a, th^y ^el^oin/sross the ^iver to each other'a t^^r^oi^y.dftnBig U^(^«^|outt<je$t p?|Npe;, fpr jtf |^fat is ^ mutual jeatou&y snnf ercn det^etlatliMi tin'«i4iiehit]iey liteiilipi^ quarrels anil skirmishes Wf^nlil be t4le:ill«vit»Uee«ls^lK^nfie of more general eoikimanieatinn. Wheyieri iti^imwm^^tB their frequent hostilittes^tiT the p>mk mpidiiy 4rfthe£f«l)«& or the dome^tick habits of' im* Cos^adcsy ts^vneertaiB; ' but fishing aeemed entirely twi§le^»dj ;iiotwitii9tendiiig their faTonrable sitoatt^n. The 'o«ly'lu«t»^Hled upon the river are those eam»$s bafam! nttntiosedr leaoK ron- sisting of one entire pieee 6f ^tood^beiitg seooped 4Mit of a single tree. On the evening of (he la«tdiay df durresideQee io Ekat- erincdara, we a^tn obtained permission from ih^, com- mander in chief to make ambther exeur&ion into Qirpa#»a. The natives on. the opposite shore uveit muoh dimuni^hed in number ; we eould see onl^ afewstra^lers ;«A€l we hoped to collect some plants for our berbar^r. . General DriMeaTHz himself attended us to (he water's side,^ and, thafrfiifi;^»e(iit over a party of Cossacks^ retired wiUi'seiveralof iiisiro^ps (o the high grounds en the northern bank of -the ctver^ in firder to keep a look-out for our sa&ty.- Tktt eannna »la- tipned on these heights had a very exteusivd roH^ i»«er,Uie opposite country ; and we were ordered^ if w« l^rd a e^nn fired^ to efii&ct a retreat as speedily as possible., W^ iaadfed, and found, near the nver, the Gl^yjn'kixa gi^kra^ihe Mu- hits ccpshis, an(f Jigrimmda Enpatoria of Comraoii Agrino- ny. The appearance in the swampy plata 'befbre ns did not promise a more eopifius selection^ and we therefiif e en- treated ttie Cossacks to ten tnrewhhns to the ^ woodsy, vliieh appeared witltin a short walk to the south. . Tins <sur guard positively t*efused ; and eonHnutng.our search more iflHne- dia^eiy under (he eanna? of Ekaterinedara, we prcsentlj found they 4iad ^ood reason for their denial, as upwards of sixty of the Cireausians made their' anpeafanee amiuiy; the wiirows. On otir approach, ttiey all eoUceted twg^ker^ making a great tmise^ a»d asking as, several questions fn & loud tone, which, perhaps, were no otherwise m«nittlBg t|ian that we did not understand them, llritated' a». their kad been by theeventa^f the late war^ no eonfidenee eould have been placed in their eofi^t^sy, evenif any had been maniles- ted ; for althouf^ kospitality aoioog savage uationa is a sacred principle, revenge ts not l«ssstti»hjeet of v^eneratioo, particularly among CitcassiauB.* We thei'efare velneteot- • " Among tTic CircAsshmis^ !li*e spiiit'of i'^fienCineiit is sa great,, thtt (lYY th« retail ves flf tlie nardvret* itre coti9kU^pe4«»iKU44t|%:1|bif QMlvaiarx .TOtJTOI^-raOK'FlEllOV Cl&OUISlA. S00 lyrcHrMfdad-ofkoe^oMt rf>yifiiag war eftnocs^ibr ever b(lde'Mie«t9>ft€OttBlry wliuili^aeenea to faai&e evei^ projeet -thatt'eMidbe dcriiiad kf mere trareliers for its iQvestigation. i^tlrfagtiein tken'Sii mty? at that .time*, eoqid have enabled n^ld'iwmtfateCikrtiier; aodevett with an eseort, like Denoa ^ktt EgfptoardbselrvaliOttft might have been restricted to the 1iQflt9 of thcaaaip l» \vbi0h we mwt have lived. * "LettvitiglBkatMnedara, «o paat alongr ^'i<^ Russian tine ^ \v€ erml^ thift steppes- to Vydma^ a ^nilttary statioi^. Not- ^vtthstandins the very numerous videites and garrisoned plftdes ^rfiiisli ii^aanl the* ftroniier^ ^fWt jiverc desired toin- <;rease th« number of oir e^eort. 'A post route is established tfif^n^hbot'thi» boundary of fjh€ ompirei andyin general, is ' Very i^^ooadaotedi The Rassiaa line^sfrom the Black Sea ' Mwai^ft «Im east^ eovtimie^ t!^^ the north side of ihh 'Klifbajll9'ani'fWlra'tha^ river to the Kuma, which is sivaf- * Towed in baak* of ^ift^and before it reaehes tlie Caspian ; ''*l1ietie0hy'thoiiorlliofthe€a«ptaii9 throBgh the country of ■* tl«e Kir^isgiaM,* und by^ the river Ural, on to (he lake ' ' Baikal (whfeh is in ^aat a sea) 'the river Amour, and by the fi%ntiei^of'€htna,'ti^ the oriental ooean. Afterwards it is ' <lOitftkiirt>d tothe ilordi as lar as Kanistehatka. Throughout ' ' f hffe WsY hottndory^ a re^nlar ^st and aiUitary stations may ' ht ibbudi j fi^y that the traveller, in the more northern part ^U/iMtead of horses for hito eonveyanee, would be sup- 'pl^itd 'frith large do^. , • > ' Oilr jobroev^eoncltteted its, as uanal, over immense plain*, M^h4eh^eme<i>hopdc^ of e^ny elevation or boundary. The ' land} 'how^i'ery'lietweeli £katerinedara and Yydnia, was tei'y'Hdb.' * Wo saw oomo good wheat, barley, oats, millet, > . infata^^t^on to avenge the t>lood of relatives, -generates lamt of the feuds, and x»eb^\oft's great'bT^d«hdd amobg^fiU.the tribes df .Caueasus ; for unless ' pM^' be fKiSBhBsetL, op obtaiu^il by intermarriage between the two - tASBilidfy fb^prineiBleiOf reveigc is propagated to alt succeeding genera- dons^^ .The Iiatreu whkh the mountainous- nations evinoe against the Russians, in a great meatore, iirisefi from the same source. ^ If the thirst of v^fig^nce is f}«ie«<fteiV by a* priiee paid to the ftanily of th c 9 eccasect, ihia ' tritmtoiK^W^/iihUL'lfasa, or Mhe price of blood: but neither princes nor (USclena a<;ccpt of sqch. a compeiisatioi^ as it is an establivHed law among .them to demand htoodfor bUtfd':^* PalliM^s Ti-avels, vol. 1. p. iOf>. . I ( '•-»/'• • T,ii<? country of Kirgiss is cHvidcd into three parts ; little Kik*giss, twiddle Kirgiss, and theGniikl Kirgiss.. The twa first only, wjth-a few "vittages's^tlth dfth^ Baikal, j|i»c subject to Russia. But tJie greater part of .\ thttieb«iitr)^Of>tihe.Kin|l|niant is entirely independent; and fU inhabitants are vagrants, living entirely inw'apfons. The people ol'BochnrA o^ Bficha- ria, lefid a better m«d« ^f |ife...,Thje5i have aey^ral C9;isiderable towns.— Thefr caj^tal itt Samn^cand. . ... Ml 0&ABu\b T3l4VBLft 11? TA&TAftT. rje, iwlUii e«n]^ «nd a e^rdat ^mmiCilf of kir^e tMstles amo«g die grasty ^hiifh are a^ wmI Irnown ' |iroof ' that the laad M ft«t'po6t. All boiIb of melfins ami grapes xvere thraviBff in the ofittn air. From Vy^ttia ta'«V<$cftas^^tfrojr, andto ijbfa JIficlififi (eaoh of whteh latter plaees is itotltln^ more than a sin^ iiiit irioeoped in* an ai»eieiit' tomb) we* Dotioed eliiffly g^^ass land^ with here aad there patehes of iMiderwood and yovn^ oak« $ among' 'M'hieh, we foand some rtd peas^ and vines growing wild. The postmaster at Me- ^bastovskoy refiiseo to change a note of five roobtes, be- oaase it waft okd^ and had been a good deal in nse. H^re- ab«uts we niiiser%'ed a noble race of dogs, like those of \h& Morea^ and-of the province of AbrucKo, in Italy, gttardin^ (be aumerotis floeKs. The villages also were fined witb them, oaaceount of t(ieir ntility in giving alarm during the ' naetamal ineursions of the (^ireassfans. We bIm saw several of tliat gigantic breed whteh goes by the name of the Irish Wolf Dog. From Kara Kuban our route lay ehteflk through swampd, filled with reeds and other aqnatiek plants^ The air was eiieessively hot and tin wholesome. At • lei^th we reaehed that division af the river which insu- lates the territory of Taman,and, crossing by a ferry, came to Ki>jdlt i^nother military station. Tj^ branch of the river m which this ferry is stationed bears the name of Potrocka, and falls into the sea of AzoH The other branch retains the ortginal appellation of Kuban^ and falla into the Black Bea. The Isle of Taman, whieh separates the two, is the territory, whieh, opposed to the promon- tory of Kertehy, in the Crimea, constitutes those straits amsiently called the Cimmerian Bosporus. At Kopil, we found a general officer, who had married the daughter of one Bf the TehertiomosKi. He shotted ns »ome of the snh- aUerns^ teuts, which were full of dirt and wretchedness. In the eolonePs tent, who was absent, we s&w a table bean* tifully inlaid with mother-of-pearl and ivory. Upon asking where it was made, we were told it had been purchased of the Circassians, who are very ingenions in all such arts. The general told us, significantly, he preferred Kopil to Peter^bnrgh — any place, we inferred, rather than the resi- dence of the emperour Paul. Few situations eonid surpass Kopil in wretchedness. Bad air, bad water, swarms of mosquitoes, with various kinds of locusts, beetles, innume" rable fiies, lizards, and speekled toads, seemed to infest 'n w ith the plagues of Egypt. Hor$cs could not be procured ; ' l|iit^^»g9M9»iit«lM5«qi9«io4lUiHl iM witk. ki9.(HirB. Am i«e l«ft K^U^.JwerquiUed^s^ llie-,rAver, andproedeiled'liiraof^ ixuu'&h^fttQ £j[U»us0 .IriOUI: wity we eaugkt «imm simU dtfcksyibud saw njao; wiM giM^e. AtKalftiMi weff«t»i'9 voong dkff very.t(Mae^;i iu»d i^ vr^^ ^oM that \awi^ Vfim oAe» . lutb^ eaura&of ttkU ji»mtipy IrQfa Jtiik^ftrinedara, .at ii« ad|i:aiioed^ t^<ii fr^quooUtafMls of koue^s aiiMuiieed^ at a dia* taof^^ tbe iKomlbr^able assuranee of the TeJiernoiMoraki guardi MrUlM>utrir^^ the b^rd# of oattle in tlio ^teppea^ aiiiotfotiDj$.t4» /i^iij;tbo#aaad9, woul^ be. eouUiHHdJy pliui*r dejsed by.^be:Cir/iii88iai)ii* > Tl^ecttardfpaMed tho aigbt on the. bare .ei|^4A,(,proteoi«d irem ,tSo iiH^^qiiitoea by eroMi^ iqg iaU) f |^iod4ifi»ai6)^y^.64A6)ei^»^#^ly tor (bo eoveriagof a 6ui^ep;s^$0thi m wbmb4b«[y Mejimon tAetbinlloe andotlior ' v4.ldpl«ait0 o£:|he fttepp^. ^t Jvalaos (bore wae tiathera - 8trong.bodyt«)f ihei»Uit4M:y#, tlTrqiii thia.plaoo ,lo Koorky tl^di$|^y«^e is. tUirty-QyQ.yATftM** ^igjf^t .oajine oa^bot •wo> d^i^ym'm^ ^o procie^ci. « JS> oonifivE^et on our part^eouid . ptfi^ettt miUkiHk» ol* B4oa(|Mitoie& iroo^ ^|ui^Um6 inside oI^ oi^rpof rjager ^t^biob, ill ^ilo of^|ave^9*elo4be«, aiid bai|d-. kefcbkiV, rend^K^ our ,b9diie»..aoe aatiro Mrouad* Tb& oi^esHve jirritajtioa and pjiuiiliiUsw^lUiig canoed by the bilea ' of, thei^i'urioujhi^e^. together wUb a |pe«tiioutial air^. eitei(o4 iuine a Ye<y efosiderabie degree of fe^er.f T^ie . C^9$^k»ligbt maxifr(H&» ^F,f& to drive tbeiufroui the eatik : du4*4a^^he.iii^h.ts, Mv»o jni^tiate is Iheiv Uiir»t of bloody, that bAi.udredi^ WfU,.iUt|iQk a per»on atieuiptiag to shelter luui^eU' ev0tt.in Ut^ midst of jSittoke* At the same lime^ tho^ iKU^ tbej^, make ia ilyjog.c^naot beeoneeived by per»ona^ \vbp ba^eo^iAy )i>e|(»n;,acefii|tAp)ed ^o tbe buBiimog of sueb ini^H^I^ iu o^r ipj^otutrjf .. . Itwav iudeed» to aii of us. a fear* i'ut found,. a«^|upiUtMod by t-be elacoour of reptile myriad%. (oa^^i^i^i lM41&*og«9 u^Jbo^ eoftslaai croakiogy joiued wiik^ •^ Hiitljer less tlian twenty -four English miles. t .Vim i|)Qirt«li^ ^i4t«;09aMia»e4 in t^Q^iiaaraiD anB^y.both.«C xaen mvil hovsfis jff^, \^} gvpt. , ^Xany of tbo^e ;3taUoaed alopg tiic. Kqban died in consequence of laortificatioii produced by the bites of these bsects.r^ Oth©i% \v\\6 esKiaped the venom x)f the mdsqiii toes, feUrictirastothe l)a(l- lncm^ttiti'mA, JBkHuttiayM timf. 8eoo|f a Itoilow iu-tlie abeient tombs^ to 9ev%*^t^9,ii)^i^vi^;i, fitothfe(i:;timeu^ a vaens sh«d« eooH^tioieU o£ ree^^ aiTorus the ODiVcoveriug; and in either of these places, dui'iiig the great' est heftt of Sttratiief . they light farge fires, in order to fill tlje urea wifli. smoke;- fly iiig'ti» tkl^ taffboiftiiig ov^ii^ «U the HLOSfr mritry weftther, «» Z 3L ; the biifkiAg^bf flot^ aYidtke r«Mi)$ (>f li«ii4s>4iiltlBtaia«^4» thcmtdit bf 'darktie^» aif trntottfliDdl^ ufi^oai** It 'wu viar iT)t^ti«il'tD travel In id^ hottm, ivitbont heMkn^ iot aity irepo^e ; ' l^ftt various a^cideirtg eompelfo^ iffi t» alft^ at Konrky About midnight, a ^ttHitai^ Ktatlotiiijfke'tlie r«B^f and no sabse^uent- dens«kti«H 4)f ea^e «ir tmati^H. hM^ lever CrMlterafed the impres^on w»de*'bT tile' sAflRniMg 4riEl:lhis Dighh' ItW8snearthe.«ik!dle«f Jftly; ' The earrta^e luud been dragg«fd^^ fbf niiltrf -mltef together^ tbriHt^h stagMmt pfldils*; in fording one of \rltieh itii^agsfiAtodil^illf watery and the d&tineuie^ sevit, finur, atid'Vrbl1> became* iiy leowt- ^Ye, to opeivand inspect'the triMki'. ^ Ottl- 4<Mkjr^ aiMl iiiMin weii&^^t; 'The€)<ite8a^ and Ra^!i«ani«rodfra^iiv«r^leapiH|g tin the bat^ eaHh, eoVered by 6aHt»$ ^d'b4|i«ealli4ttO'of • these a soldier pehnitt^ my ^mfiaA4o«'to^l4««'d##». a?hfc ^rotfttd'ieiSfniedetHifeW i^lve wi^inttffliierBfeMnad95le«awi* in^ every where. Almost exhausted by fatij^e^* ftoitt^ aad hf^at,T snuglrt fkbeltei^ in the eaMage, sl»tmgi» naterand niud. it^wastheniost sultry night 1 evM* ekpmented $ (ool a brieath.ofiiir was ^tirring^j tnir eonW 1 venture to open the windows, fhoughr almost saffoealedytbiroadrh iiHat t^ the mosquitoes. Swarms^ nevertheless; fiiMind'the)r'*«ifay^to my ' biding place ; artd ^hen 1 opened my nwuth^ H \yaa ^ited with them. My head was bound in'handlcerehHfs, }'etthiey force'd their way into my eat^and no«»trtls»'* In 'm midst ' of thfs ferment, Tsneeeeded in lighting a larg^ lamp aver * the sword ease, whieh was instantly eM4ngtti^ed*by aich a prodigious number «f tliesernsect^, tb«t<theii*dea^ bodies aetnaHy remained heaped in a large etiiie over thi» bif#aer Ibr several days afterwards^^ and I 'itnewnot>aiiy roodrof • descriptibn whieh may bettier convey b» idea of ^^eiraf- iieting visitation, than by simply relating this fact;, to the ' Irotli %f which, (Imis& who traveiied witb me, and who are sow living, bear indisputable testimony. The northern' bank ofthe Kuban, being every where ele- valed^ presents ^a very extensive view, aeross those marshy "plainsof Cireassia, which lie towards the river, of- the mountainous ridges of Caucasus. As morning dawned, we had a delightful prospect of a riah country on tSe Circassian aide, somethinglrke bouth Wales^ or the tinestpart of Kent ; ' jileasing hills, covered with wood, and itHile valleys, cul- t»vatedTike.agai:dejat. A rich Circassian princei the. pro- <.;:jprietac «i* this beaatiful territoryy^yfiwfHMlfy. IMuyHce^ vtMffMStiiiftJS.ubltf»yjas.we<.ifere iiifariiiedf lOfeonveyrten^tii the pmrii Oh. 4h« Russm vide, theseenerj is of a very diffefeit/dewidpliQo;. partioularly jq the . ioarn^y froqi KaAftt* iA Kopil,' wbi»re itid a., contiaued swamp ^ iji eatioftnf nuivMeaioina ftir^ ro«9 aJiMive tbe coof oi^Qur ear- ]-iiifi^,i»tiie;heifbtof sixteoA ^ tjireiit)(lee^ 8aiiietiine«, .£uir many mikft^ we aaw no. other objeeti; nor were olbor aottiidaliAardithaiitboBeiseof.niasquitoeiy and tbeeroak- iii9>of toads jonArfro^. Upw the ek?ated land nearer t» (b«iiniv0r»ao<jlftn tbQmi<)8t.of the military stations which imteett the Wut, observatCM-iiNi <tf a Toiir •iAgnJiar coastrttc- Uoaune ruimd^ for. thap^rposf^of eoatainiiig a single per- . SOD. They. ]^eiAUlo.8a mmy eaakaT aeiU, t ach of whicb is pkulnd opail, three apright, tallpolesf or trunks of trees, liiere a Co084Mk seatM>oi^ sUndipg; wit^ bis fusil, eontinally hwatidiei^ihe aijotiofts.of (fate Gicewiiiu^si antbeopi^osite iiida <of tbeliubaa^. . n ; , . . Ao we \vh Koarky, tM,iiiofli^iU)OS'b^aB to| diniinishia .miipher I atndjto oAr.iqej^prQtsible joy, in the approach to- .wu^tbesbofOtoflbieCiKHMKaiAi^BosFOHps, or StraiiM ^ Taimul, they ^ii^ddenly disappeared. aUogetber,*. . . Wie were aoifv.ap0roa4(bia9 cp(ip(ri/Q4 connected with the 0ariiest.ht«tQr^ of Gr/eeee, aiid the.i>io«l splendid periods of ; Rome. Oeoasions ^ ,it|n$trajLe their .interesting records^ by telierenfe to ancient moiiHaien^s, mii^Ut,, i^de^d, be few;, hat we resolved to nofte every occurring observation, ajsd 4id not aotioipoite with indiffereuBi; the gratification <ve •hofltd oKperic&nce ii| traveriiiogir^oas pnce the emporium of Athens I whioh conii|iued to su|iply her with the prin- eiplo.of her existence, as a maritime ppwer,r natil the com- ^ the. Soxine. passed, with,t,nelib^ties,Qf.Grefcer * The inhabitantft of Taxnun Wd never Been tormented 1b^' Uieftc} i'n- ' feeets ; bat 4iuritig^ die nMit after oar Mrrkiil, tiM tirhoie {tinily wkh ^ttouk we lodged, were stang by % ttm^ tvtiifh ?^i^tt, witj^os uBperDaT«<| in tbe carri^t^ Enel^nd is, for the most part, . free from this terrible scourge, as wetl as from thfe locust; bnt it \^ very nncertaid hotr- long it may eorttimte so, as'the^f^rogress of IkiCk ontf and the olher^* toiMmls lati* tudea mbere tliey were formcirly onkilowty haa been '•eti«M>iy felt in. nany aountines within the present eenttrry, Perhaps in no part of the globe do thev aiwund more thin in Lapland. 'When Accrbi pubBshtfd hat trivel» tti raose regions^ it was ob$e<Med that be had too ilften mentioned Ibe Am** tqnHoec; yet there it nO'circumfttaBte* whieh gives tohift wntinn^more kkteri^a) evidenee of truth than the cf^use of this objection. The fact i^ ]^e real nature of their afliyctiog visilation,' which renders eveii tffe buroen* senie, cannot b^oodceivirdjbtti by persons who hAte^l^tik " "^ ' ^ f60 CLAaSB's T&AVELS IN TAAtAKT. iBto the hands of ihe Romans. Her trade in' the Enxine Botonly enriched, hot supported her inha£itant$. t)be- eame the nursery for h^r seameni and was of the. utmost importanee hi the demaad itoceasioned for h^rown mami- faetures. A very principal part of this intercourse was confined to the Cimmerian Bosporus, whose kings, and prinees received the hishest marks of Athenian re^*icnl. Many of them were made citizens of Athens,. which, in that age, was esteemed one of the most distinguished honours that conld he conferred.* From periods the most remote, from those distant ages when the Milesian settlements were fir^ established upon the coasts of the Buxirie^ a trade with the inhabitants qI* the country, which extended even to the Palus Meeolis and the mouths of the Tanais, had been . carried on; and it is, perhaps, to those early colonies of Greece that we may attribute most of the surprising^ sepal- .' chral monuments fonud on either side of the Cimmerian Bosporus. The Milesians erected a number of eities upon all the shores of the Euxine, and peopled tliem with their own colonies. t Other states of Greece, and especially the Athenians, followed their example.^ The difliculty of ascer- taining the locality of these ancient cities arises fi^ni Iwq causes; first from the want of harmony which prevails, among those authors whosa writings we adopt as guides f and, secondly, from our ignorance of the geography of the oonntry. Not a single map has yet been pablished which, gives any accurate representation. The only elue we pos- sessed, to conduct us in our approaeh to the Bosporns,§ was^ the large, Basil edition of Pluiy, a folio volume, which haft • ** Leuoo, king of Thrace, was so mucli pleased with it, ^at he or. ' dered the decree, which made him an Athenian citizen, to h? feiigravedoti ' three marble columns: one of them was (placed in the Pirtcus, another dn the side, of the Thracian Bosporus, and the third in tlic temple of Jupi- lierUrias." Ctarhe*sC(mnexionofOoi7is,'p,S^. ' ' t »M. t IMd. . § Aeeovdtog to the Greek text, pavticalarlr that of Stnibo^ it ahoald bs wntleQ iiOi;tiOK>2> impljiag ^^apOMmge/ar 9xens** hot all the LAtin mgnpkers write BoseHOBUs. It seemt proliable that the ai*igiual appel-. istioa 'wa* derived froift «ii»^4>0}>0^, the most fuwient «arae of Veuus, i^koM laae waft qpoii these alrarea. The uim» of the i^oft/»orM« of Thrace, aeconUog to fiuatathiiMi io huCommeirfaryoa Lhooyttiw {j&sfs Ox. ed. p.. IMj was a eorruptien of «..0^«Ox-0-k ; but I should tUiiUc ^e term wm iint taken, ratlier fi-om the Light Taw'era, or the Volcunick fifes, com- moa to b<^ the •b«its» than from the odigitt li« baaastigaed.^. Tike change oC * mto B wan common } as ^^AiiiilO^ for vidiuilO^, iS. ir^« • for ♦PXlfiu;, ££PONlJiil for 4?EPON]liri, t^od bal(i€naiw *A^UklNA. TO TBX 0lKMBRtAN BOSPORUS. Stl been preBented'toQsby Mr. K6va1eDs(^y Itf Yag^aoroek: a most unexpeeted acquisition in the plains of Tartary. Ae- corditig to the text of that author, we had every reason to believe ive were not far from th^ sit nation of the ancient town of Cimmerium ; and in this eonjectare we wei;e pro- bably right At the foot of a sn^all mountain, near the northern em- bonchre of the Kuban, we eame te a station ealled Tem- robk. 'This place may be observed in the Russian maps. It is now nothing more, however, than a single hut, for the purpose of supplying post-horses. Near it, the very year before our arrival, a volcano rose from the sea, forming an island, which afterwards sunk asain.* Temrook is mention* ed in the notes to the Oxford echtion of Strabo in more than •n^ instance, with allusijon to the Travels of Motraye, and written 'ttmrok,^ In.Motraye's time it was a plaee df more consideration than we found it. He was there in the beginning of the last eentury,:( and describes it as ^* consi- derable for its commerce, in hides, caviar, honey, Circassian slaves, and horses.'' He supposed its castle stood where the ancients planted their Patrmus $ and " two eminences,^' says he, ^^ which are named the 'point of the island^ may have been their* •;3c/ii/te7mi PromontoriMm."§ Hardly any thing else seems required in order to prove that this must kave been the situation of Cimmerium^ which was, as Pli- ny mentions, '^ultimo in ostio^ It had formerly, observes * The fQli6w|nga«io«at of ike. nmn$ aT thii island ha» 1»^n extracted from PaUas'fl Travels. *• It was ^bout siiorise, on Uie 5 th of. September . [179^3 when a saliterraneous noise, and soon after a dreadful thundering^ -were perceived in the sea of Azof, opposite to old Temruk, about one hundred and fifty fathoms from the shore. This intestine eonvul^on wai ^eedily. followed h}' a report, not unlil^e that of a cannon; while the asto* nished spectators, who had attentivel;^^ watched the terrifick sc(ene, ob» served an island, of the form of a hirge harrow, rising from a cavity of the sea aboat five or six fathoms dee|>, and proceeding above the surface of the water, so that it occupied a space of about oae hundred fathoms m eiroumferencc. At ^rst it appeared' to swell and separate by fissures, throwing up mire vim stones, till an eruption' of fire and smoke occupied the spot On the same d«T» lAout 'seven o'elock^P^M. two Solent ahock» of an eartbqiiake, after m short iatervnl, were perseined at Eknte* rinodar, jwhich i8_two hundred versts [near 1^34 miles J distant from Tern- ahock» of an eartbqiiake, after a short iatervnl, were perseined at £k«te* 'nodar, which is two hundred versts [near 134 ra" " " *" tk." JPaltfu'w Trmxflt in tf» South ^f fiUMi me autkov i^l^fl^ that the iskuid sank again bai t Strab. treogr. fib. ii. p. 7^ edit. Oxon. 1S07* * Motn .p. 40. J Ibid, ruk." JPantu'w TrmxfU in tf» South ^f fiUMia, vol. ILp. 316. The same autkov isel^a^ tkat the isknd simk jigain hefione he eoiiJM visit it. , ^ Motn^e ^9M «t Tfi9«K>k ia Desenker I7M. See Trax* ^«^ ll,p.40i . fi6J ciauke's travkls^ IV tartahy. Ili« $amsg$(^aj^erj Imrn the name of C^rt^cHon. IPallai remarks,* that Temrook may probably hare been the Cim* bricus of Straboi *rhat whieh at present entitles it to the partieaiar notiee of the traveller is, that from this place Motraye began his jonrney, when he discovered, iti so re* jnarkable a manner, the rains of a Greek city in Oircassia, w-hich seems deeidediy from an inscription he found there, to have been ^paturus. All that we can collect from the obscurity which involves this part of his narrative, is, that, leaving Temrook, lie turned on the right, and, erossing a river, called by the Tartars the Great fFater (probably the Kuban) arrived, after a journey of one hun- dred and ten hours,t at those ruins : also, that they were aituated in a mountainous eountry ; for he observes, that the Tartars of the mountains were not so civil as those of the plains. It foUows^ thersfor*, that Pliny is not speak- Iffg ef the Apaturo9 in Sindiea, mentioned by Strabo,f when he eoaplea it with Phanagoria,§ but of a temple of Apata- rian Venus, belonsing to that city, and which Strabo also no- tiees.f Hariag Uius removed one difficulty, in reconciling the places on the Bosporus with the text of these authors, we may, perhaps, proceed with more facility and pre- cision. After leaving Temrook, we journeyed, for the most part in water, through an extensive morass, in the very midst •f which are stationed the remarkable ruins of a consider- able fortress, looking like a^ old Roman castle, and said to have belonged to the Turks. At the taking of this place, -the Russians, from their ignorance of the country, lost five hundred men. la. order to attack an outpost, tb^y ha4 a awall river to erosa, whieh they expeeted to pass on iee ; but the Turks had cut it awav, and the water was deep. jDuring the deliberation eaused by. this unexpected embar- sasaaftenl, the. Turka, who were concealed behind a small rampart, suddenly opened a brisk fire, which caused them to leap into the water, where they were all shot or drowned. The fortress itself i& a square building,, having a tower at * Trayelftthreiii^ tbe Sentlierif Pn)TiRMB» tec. v<4 IL p, SiS. •(■ The editor of the Oitford Hffwibcr rnnke* It • fife dhyf ahd %fei -liMrs, •which itevkUtttfy a miiitske, &$. wilt'»W««r by cQwiidlHia'tlie UixU. * Stitrti: lib. fi. p. 7«2«. ed. Ox. lib^ •* ^T ®*^****** akPhiiiagwia, et p««ie/E|«ierlmn Apatmos.'* PK» f Strab. m,. il,p. 723. ed.Oxon. • tPOTRM eiMHERlAV BOSPORVS. ^tf ifmlk fagle, and is ttill almost ^tire. It is pozxliw to eoiat» eeiTe far what purpose Dt was er^eted, as it stail^i in tiie midst of a swamp, withoat seeming to protect any import* ant point. Is it possibilB that such a building ean present the remains of Cimmerfum^ or even tbe Tmntetractm of the Hussians, or any work of high antiqnity ? On aceonnt of its Ibrofi, we siioatd be inclined to believe its origin t)f no remote date : and yet that little has been ascertained of the style of architecture used in the earliest periods of fortifica* tion, raav be proved by reference to a silver medal in my own eolfection, which I afterwards found In Macedonia. This medal is of the highest antiqnity, being rude in form, and without any legend or monogram. The'sahjeet of it ofl^rs in front, within an indented square, the ngnreof a man, M-ith a crowned head, and a poignard in lits hand, Qombating a lion ; and the reverse, with very little excep- tion, piaiy represent the fortress in question. At the distance of two versts from this fortress, we saw other rnins, with a few ancient and some Turkish tombs, and subterraneous excavations. Among these may be recog* nised the identical antiquities described by Motraye, in his Travels.* No trace of any ancient work afterwards ap- peared, excepting fumu/t, until we came to the bay of Ta- inan. Then, on the shore, immediately above some very high cliffs, we observed the remains of a very large fortress and town, entirely surrounded with tombs and broken mounds of earth, indicating evident vestiges of humnn la- bour. The geography of these coasts is so exceedingly obscure, that a little proxility in noticing every appearance of this kind, may, perhaps, be tolerated. We soon reached the posthonse of Sienna, actually scooped in tke cavity of an ancient tomb. In the Neighbourhood of this place we found remains of much greater importance. Its environs were entirely covered with tumuli^ of a size and shape thftt could not fail at once to excite a traveller's ^vonder and sttmtfhtte his research. The comntandant of engineers at Taman, general Vanderweyde, had already employed the soldiers of the ^rdson in opening the latgest. It was quite « monntam. Tkey began thewMi^^ very ignorantly, at tke s»mmit9aiidfor.a.]ongtimQ.'iMw»ured to.no purpose* At lastyby ehangm^'tbe ^treetiea ef tlieir esoavation, aa4 opening tke eastern side, they diseevered tke entrett^^^ JiM caAKU's TmAVSLS.I« XMLXAltT. aliu«, arehed Tault^.of the nwt ftdmimiile naiww^.. J liad tne pleasure to descend into this remarkable aeptulcbre. Its mouth was half filled with earth* Yet, after passinffp the entrance, there was sufficient space for a per«ioa t» stand upright. Farther towards the interionr, tbc area was dear, and the work perfectly entire, The niateriaiqC which the masonry consisted, was a while, crumbling* liaMe-r atone, such as the country now affords, filled with fra^^n^eala of minute shells. Whether it was the work of MUesiaost or other colonies of Greecje, the skill used in iU oon«tmi«i7 tion is very evident. The stones of the .sides aj-e allsquaee^ perfect in their form, and put tc^ether without any cemant. The. roof exhibits the. finest turned areh imaginable, h^^iniiK the whiteness of the purest marble. An interigur, ^i^aulteS^ chamber is separated fr4>m the outer, by m«aus of tivo|)il%«r ters, swelling 4>ut wide towards their bases^ and placed,. pii<^^ on each side, at th&entpaaee. The inner chamber is , ihp la^er of the two. CoQcerniBg ^vtry ihina found im this tom^, it i»fi pi^trbapffy nut possiblo to obtain in;ron»ation. . One artiale a)on^ titat was shown to me by. General Vanderweyde at Taman, may give anidea of the lunk -of the person origimilly^ interred there. It was a zpne for the leg, or bracelet for the arm-jof the purest massive gold^ The.stJIdiers employed in tlu» undertaking stole{whatever they deemed of vaiae and were aUe to conceal, and destroyed other things which did aat. appear to^them to merit preserratioB. Among these, was. a na«iber of vttses* of black earthen ware, adorned w4lh wAite oi^ia»ettta. The branelet was reserved by> general Vaader*^ «weyde, to he smrt to i^tersbargh^ for the emperoar's eahii* net; facias enough has been said of Russia, to induee mik- lea8t.a sQspieton,. that so valuable a reliok may never reaek. itadeetiaatton, a more partiejalar deseriptioa ef itmay he^ neeeesaxy. - Its..weaigbte%aalled three quarters of a pound. It represi^ated the SmAj of a serpent, curved in the form ef att>ellipse^ having two heads, which, meetiag-ait opposite poivlsy made tte opeaJBtt fov the wrist or ankle* Tlieaefer<> pent heads were studded with rubies, sq as to imitate eves, * and te*eniamet»tr.thahaek pait of caeit teadhylwe diitmet * A fev of these vftses were, hoirever, sent tor^Mosinmtf, a«cOi*ditt|r fo die »ocoant ^rea t9 me In Uie ooutttfy, ^and. wega ihm^ :»wsU9»od M^'^vk wfairipool which engulphs all ttiat is dear to literature in that dtj. Their loca|^&8t6t7i»pr<6ba% Mwitostrt fcB- the Roasiaits, in their astimishing ignorMieeycaU all works of this load £eru«ib«»vMle«nrthdiatan«»«dd ttf their Tslae. ,*:-, td THE SIMMERiAN BOSPORUS. ft^U iovrs of ^i4is. The rest of the bracelet was also fortbef . SHiorned by rode" gfared work. It possessed no elasticitj^ b«t, on accomit of fhe ductility of pure gold, might, with Mfl^ient farce, be expanded so as to admit the wrist or the ankle of the person who was to wear it; and probably, irh«n once adapted to the form, remained doring the life- tkhe of the owner. J could not bot View it as the most ancient speeimen of art which, perhaps, exists [in llie world 9 and whilsh, while it shows the progress then made in metallurgy, and inthe art of settins precious stones, at the same time •iters a type of the mythology of the age in which it was made^ the binding of a serpent round t^e leg or arm, as a tislisman, being one of the superstitions common to almost every nation in an early period of civilisation, and is a practice which may be often observed even at this day. Im- mediately above the stone worik constructed for the vault of tfie sepulchre, appeared, first, a covering of earth, and then a layer of sea-weed,* compressed by another superincum- bent stratum of earth, to th« thickness of about two inches. This layer of seaweed was as white as snow, and, whea taken in the hand/ separated into thin flakes and fell to pieces. What the use of this ve^table covering could be is very uncertain^ but it is foiind m all the tombs of this country. Pallas observed it placed in regular layers, witk coarse earthenware vases, of rude workmanship, and an- giazed, which were filled with a mixture of earth and chareoal.t It is said thai a large marble soros or sare*- pka^e^ the top of which now serves for a cistern, near tlie lortreM ofYenikalein the Crimea^ was taken frotn this tMab. The appearance of theeotmftoe, Iwwever, in its pflMettt state, contradicts the story, as the opening ha« never yet keen made snfiieiently wide for its removal, even hnd it keen se dieeevered. TfaAt it was taken from one ef the aneient tombs of the Bospems, is hij^iy probable ;f 4inA «ls perfect eoiittidonee, in point ef &rm, with that i^tarialile iMMlel wkieh prevailed in all the sepuleKres of Greeee, si^cletttly indieaies the people from it was de« rived. Stfflilar lembs are Uumd en aH the shores ofthe Bespormi. * ZMtera marinth aeeording to PftUas. t Ti*tt«ete t&roagh Hht Southctti Provinees, Sec. Vol. n. p. 306. i Hotrftve menlioDshaTing seen the lawerkalf ofone, listwSeaTsMMl 9^ Cl^Rig»'^ TRA.V»iA IJa .T4nTABX. t^lose \^ Ihc^t which I have desbri bed, are many 9tb|^, anjl some nearly of equal size. Pallas, in his journey over thi^ country, mentions the frequent recurrence of such appearr ancf s all round the bay of Faman.* Indeed, it woiifd be vain to ask whctre they are not observed. The size, gran- deur, and riehes of those on the European and Asiatick sides of the Cimmerian Straits excite astonishing ideas of tte wealth atid power of the people by. whom they were constructed; and, in the view of labour so prodigious,, as well as of expenditure so enormous, for the purpose of inhu- ming a single body, customs and superstitions are manifest^ which illustrate the origin of the pyramids. of £gypt> the caverns of Elephanta, and the first temples of the aiicienl world. In memory of " the* mighty dead," long^ before there were any such edifices as temples, tlie simple, sepul- chral heap was raised, and it became the altar i|pon which sacrifices were offered. Hence the most ancient heathej|i structures for offering to the gods were always built upon tombs, or in their immediate vicinity. The discussion \Vhich has' been founded on the iquestion whether the E^y{(- tian pyramids were tombs or temples, seems altogother n le- gatory: being one, they were necessarily the other. *T*he Soros in the interiour ehamher of the great pyramid of Cheops, which indisputably determines the sepulchral ori- gin, tiA decidedly establishes the certainty that it was also a place of religious worship; Et tot t^mpla Hadm Kom», qnot in wbe Sepulchra , . ^ Heroiim uumerare licet, t— » The sanctity of the Acnpolis of Athens owed its ar^gis t0| the,scpnlfshre ef Ceerops; and without this leadio^^fyo^^^ qf yeneration, the numerous temples wUlf wh^ek }k WM afterwards adorned would never have been erected. The Mune may be «aid of the Temple of Yeiiiis atPa]^««,biliit over the tomb of Cinyras, the father of Adonis ; of Apolle DidymieiiB, at Miletus, aver the grare ef CieeoiMhMy with many others alluded to both by Etttebuist A^d fby Glemetw AlexaBdri»iis«§ On this «eeoaiit) «iieieffit««ttChen make use of such words for the temples of the gods as, H their original and proper signifieiition, imply nothine more than a tomb or a sepulchre. In this sense^ LycopEroli|y ^ ^ Ti*aTel8 tbrottgh the Soutfaem ProrineeSy Sec. v6l. 11. p. S05» kte. * t Pradendus, lib. i. 4 Cobortatlo ad Gent 5. • -a $ P»i^. Evwy. tib. U. c. 6^ f tf«0|h«f QM«W«Lv»*'ilt. wbb afiects obsolefe termt, iwes'TrMBOSi aid Virw!;* TVMVLVS. It tia« been deemed iieeessarY to state tnese few observatimis, beeause there is no part of ancient history "whieh is liable to greater misrepresentation, than llrat which eoncerns the origin of temples : neither is it possible lo point out a passage in all Mr. Brri^nt^s learned disserta- tions, which is so reprehensible, and so eontrary to the evi- ijetit matter of faet, as that in which this sabject is introda- eed. "^ Haying afforded an engraved representationt of sepulchres, exactly similar to those exeaTated in the rocka •f A^ia Minor, and which bear inscriptions purporting th4» fise for which they were constructed, he nevertheless exerted his extraorclinary learning to establish nn opinion directly contrary to their real history • Sienna\ seems to correspond very accurately with tha CErsrs of Strabo,§ and CepcB Milesiarttm of Pliny .^ The Milesian sepulchres found there in such abondance may probably still further confirm this position; but in onler to elucidate the text of either of these authors, it is absolotefy necessary that reference should be made to better maps thaii £av6 hitherto been published. No less than three anciepk hridg<es of st,oue lead to this plaoe from Taman } and th|^ tiiey were works as much of luinry aa of necessityy is proved from the circumstance, of their bein^ built acrosa places containing little or no water at apy time. A shallow stream flows under one of them, which the people^ of the country pass at pleasure, disregarding the bridges, as being high, and somewhat dangerous on account of their anti^ty4 ^They consist each of a sincle arch, built with ^eat skill) ««d accortfiiig to that massive solidity which bespeaks the ^^ks of remoter periods. The usual bridge! of the country ; ; » M fpuimihtm anti^Hse Cei^ijs, Sodemque saerfttsm, Vcnimus,"*—— vfflii.. lib. U. v. 74li. , »t Br^raal^'s MytWogy, toI. h p. 325. 4to edit. Londotf, 1774. . , ' \ iiieitnah th« iimim of thw place, as pronounced by the ' Tchernomcrr- iihfr'ChMVieks; \m they itf9; c^eMinfth' chan^n^'the. spp^aSbAinC the fScrent plaees m the countiy, aod I know not what lUiine it Jiadsanioaa e'Tartara. ' . / ' ' .. y 'i Iji^fc. ii. p. 722. ed. Ox, It is w^'itten Cepi in, l^e Latin translation. ; and to th^ 'Greek text. Km*.; but, according tb the notes, some MSS ■ea4 okfi-i^ct, I have wntten it a^ it is anthonaed by the edition oS PKn/i 'which vd'<$haneea to have "with us, as well as "by rompouiius Meta, and Biodoms Sieolas. ' flJillJialililN^ftKfe^ '^ \ /I V ..«- « are natiUn^mQVt thAn loose pieees .of timber, e^wtpA niUi hiilm»he»» We poMed the sew fortre«f o| Taman^ in our w^jr to tl»(^ l^iniy wkieh i» diatAni from it two versts.* Workmen irece dbeii employed upoK tlM baildin^ It is anabaDcd ^ u«eU99 lUidtrtdkifij^, but eaJoalated to beeome live ^epolehre of tbe few reniMnmg meribed marbles and Grecian bas-^relie&i vkkhare daily buried ia its foundation. ' Asamiiitafj worky the inost able en§^aeers view it with ridicule;, for ao army, may upproaeh close to its walls, protected from ita Mtilkry by a natural fosse,. and even unpereeived by the yurrftsoB. The Russians begin to be convinced of th^ had politj^y wbseh induced them to extend their frontier into this part of Asia. The defence of the line from Efcaterined«ur^. to Tamau^ whisk is not half the extent it occupies between tlie (Jaspian and the Blaek 3ea,required,at the time we piuio sfdfftn army of fifty thousaud men,t whose troops, from thet UHwholesoQ^e climate imd bad water, considered the station M little better than i^ grave* The eountrj itself yields m» profit, b^ingy for the most part, swampj or barren Jand^jEnid itAf smrves m itm& "Siu^ls, z! ^Idi^rs; yih9 nnght be batur eiKipl^md. The nataral bosmdaries. offered' by the Blael& Ana, the Sea oi^'Aeof^ and the Don, with a-eerdo&from iiuM r^rer to AftraohMi, ivould muoii better ai»wer tk« purpi^etf •f slreufl^h amlaggnindiaenBent ; but fiossia, mopally eon-* sidered, w IHko an enormout load', extewHag on every si4o bar Moated, nawieidy4orm^ and graduailj beeoai^g weaker^ as^skn swells wttk mmunnhfAtaBJOb- aAd unmatural t^Mm^ sion* . '- Arriving at Taman, we were lodged in the house of ani[ ollieer who had been lately dismissed the service, throii^h( the attention of whom, and of general Vanderweyde, tpe commander of engineers, we were enabled to rescue from destructiojs some of the antiquities condemned to serve a^ materials in constructing the fortress.^ The general con- * M There 1i n foiiren wUb a Rttsvi&n gMrriton, of ivbom the CeeSBcln •omplain heavily »» jniainoaa thieves. Oiir om-riage was ciiarded every; ^ightby a Cossack sentinel with hisJance-" ffeber't MS Jeunial, j-That is to say, during a period of irai% In ordin^i^ tiiAes, «h6 «Uiiiber ;» by no means so considerable. Mr. Helper luakM the whale ^ard fl# tlieW-don only equal to 5,000 men. . « i # As these have been tfb^e^y deaeribed in tlie aoeount published of tjli^ Greek marbles deposited, since our return, in the vestibule of the public^ libriiry of the umrenlty- of OsmlMgff, i|!s ODf^Ko^eesiwri^ aOsista^iMilShmr' ' to TUB CXKM&RtAir BOt^OltUAi AKtoffns over Hieroin^, wbeirt« tlte'y tieHv^ Mttffct off narble for this pnrpfMie ; and ealled then, m th^ really' apiiear to be, the Rums of tfae CHty of PnAirAoMitA. They #re fhfffld'orer all the mtbufba of TaimMi^ the ground, IbH serine versts m extent, heine covered with the forniditkmo^t lAieient buildii^s, anion^ which are freifueiidj diteovertA U6ek9 of marwe,fragnieiit» of scttlpture, aiidaneieiitooini> Of 'the eoin^ whieh I procured on ettliermd^ of the Booporag^ ftw are eomnion in cabinets. One in partieulan Iband m liriiear Taman, dbserres particular noti^e^ a# it seemt to^ epnfinn whut' I have said respeetinf» the sitvation off Pha^ ifa«^ria. It is a small silver medal of that eity, of greai aaili^liiity, and I believe the only one whieh remains; HBt there is nothin^if like it in the eolleetioa at Paris nor ia Any iHh^r isabinet in Europe known to me. In the front) it pre-^ feUts the head of a youn^ man, with that kind of cap whioii B have deset^bed in a preeedine page of this volame$* an# ilpoii the reverse appears a bofl^ butting, with a crain of i»»rn In aspaee below the line on which the animal stands^ nod almve are the letters «ana. When wv considered the? ^de«(?nictioti of ancient works, whioh Jias heeii so k»ii|p ear** md on in Taman and its neiriihoiHrlMiodt we aiay reasanAbly- ironder that any thfnt( sboold domt remaitt to, indieate lie' ftvmer ftistery. Be fotr^ ago as the b^^iMitiig of the iasir eeiiCliry, Motraiyesays the rtsMina of airtiqi^y were daily, dfiimiiishin^.t Between Taman and TenHeek^ ke obserVie({' tfte^ew^rpart ef the A»n69iisedas.a oisjfceni, of whicli.^oroe. the eistefn at-Vemkal^wms ^vibabiy dieeover4 Wkeaevr er a traveller has a reason to suspect that he is upoa er-^ that york» and to say that the articles described ia No». L IV- V. Tt XXTV, in >age8 1, 4, 46, came from that ^aee. ~* See note, p. 243^. * * ' r: .t *• We took up our Fod^^'ng; that nfght at Taman, and set out on tTift lS5th, eariy in the naming; and I observed nothing remaALohle hetwee^ this town and. Temrook, but some yet conaiderable nuns* tohich warm Hheljf to become lets 90 every day, by their continued' diminu/ion^ ocoa- ' sioned by the inhabitants of these two places canying olT, fi-om 6me to . time, part of ihcm, to build magazines, or lay thfr foundatiooa for somet houses. By their situation, #iey seemed to me Id have been thoae of tbei, .fim^9ti0 of the ancients, if it ^as not at Taman ; but I could not find eitHer mseriptions kit basio-relSbiros to gire me any further insighi into it* Hard by the highwav, near a well, there is a sort of a long; and Targe chest of hard stone,, as valuable as marble, and without a cover, almost lube the" tombs at Lampcmo.^ Motraye*» Travels^ to*. 11. ^. 40l =^ PaUaaiH^&itwaslvoiigbtfBQs&tha^e of Taiiuui^^ netrtimiMer ef iknoient «iti«awiiiii](ixry>«ft«r thtfelitvnHK med hy the • inht^itELiiU nay gaiite him .toveiylBwrieiift in^ ftrmatioo ; as it is the ine to which the sorotare «a&T«fi«2<<' ly appropriated, and opon them ancient UuiefipliiMM'mty fref ueatlj be di»BOvered. Another casiBe of the tots «f> w« c^iit monumente to Tamaa was the estabUi^sieift tliem«C' a colony of Russians at a very early .perivd^ wiwn the-ei^ bore the natae of Tamatarean* or Tmutaracmi** Near tiie gate of the ehureb-yard of Taman, lies the marble islab^ \^ith the curious inserlsitiony whieh threw, so maeh li^tt upon the situation of that aoeient prtneiEpality of Rustfia^ Qtnee th&resideoee of her prinoes. We had the saUsiMiiMi t9 see it and to eopy the inseriptien $ which htts bite iilustrated both by tiie writin|i*8 lof Pallas and by the ^vtkti brated Rassian antiquary, the latler of whom has paUitbnd^ in his own langua^, «o Tainabbs a dissertation eoaeeniins ft.f It is, therefore, snperfiaous to say more of ibis Taluaip Ue relick, than that it commemorates a iiieiisaratb>H nnHis upon the ice, by prince Gleb, son of ¥ladimir, mthe ycMr i065>ofthe distance across the Bosporus, from TmittaraMtfs to EJertehy ; that is tj» say, from Phaaasoria to Paalftea^ peum, which is found to eorrespand with the actual difttaate from Taman to Kertehy« The words of the ioMFibHaft/afe tothefoUowing eftect : '' In tite yemr 6»ra [10«&1 tndici^.lk. Prince Qleb measured th»s$Bantbe ice^ and lite ditttmdt^ from TnrntaraaoAto EMchywasBB^O^^ffitthmm* PaUat relates, that the freezinf; of the Bospoms, so thai st^oMfibar measured on the iet^ is initself nonnaomaMMi oecmvemft^ i^vhieh, while it sorves to ascertain the troth of amacaitbit^ tary, proTes also that the degrees of heat and coM do not .vary as those of latitude^ both Taman and Kertchy^ brtti^ . iiearar to the equator than Venice^ where the freeiaag af ibe The wame in Theodoiius't Itinerary ift Tamatarca.** Tmutaracaa - Ut&my *« the^&warm of BeeUes.*' Beber^t MS. Joumai. '' f Alexis Mussin-Pushkin^ one oT the memhers of the privy cotinci) In !^u9sia pQhlisbed an elueidation Of the hiacription, and of tnepnneipdityt)f Tmutarakan, accompanied by a map, explanatort of the ge^ifiplty of "ancient Rusaia. Petrnp. 1794. quarto. See alao, PaUaa's Travehiutfie South of Jiu99ia, &e. vol. II. p. 300. , # Pallas'a Travels in the South of Russia, vol. O. p. 289, 300. % These towns are situated in latitude 45. V^ntee is aBoctt haTf ii degree . li'earer to the nortli pole. Naples and Constai^tinople are with i*eape^ (o ^^ch other, pparly on the same line of latitude* yet snow Calls frequsBa^» 'A^svv$; MAnier, in the hitter city, buiisMsidoiB sera ialheiomcb. . . , : s«rin>«M'6e fteii«A]iiled ai*pr<»dt^. The esv^alrjr of Si^brt* dftt^ttretiMttKha^e^ou^ht on Clie iee^in fb&sane pak-tef tfM ilolfpi«>iif wliere a^ naval engagetneiit httd tdcea plaea' th^ preeei^ng tHttiiiier.* * ^ntohi^ tiK otheiriuittqiiitks of TAman, one of tile iiu»t ^omHca'ble'ft an amphlieatre, wtitebfieems to havelieeii in-' t«fiiei for ^irlMMttovs of naviil doflibafs, if not ased as a Tkik i^eservoir^r containing ^ater for 6ther pArpose«. It itmirlofi» tlmna tboiiaaad paces in diameter, and alt th» ioor paved. Itsform is 6irealar,lind ^^^^ where sarroirad- od^hjF rnii« ahd Ihe' foandafinns of bililmn^, whieh shpH 1»wta4B the vast area in the middle. On one side onl^r ig a iHde oj^nfti^, that seems to have afforded the principal «n« tl%iice^ The pavemeiit of the area, eonsisting of hroadt flat stontets^is now erovered by earth atid #eeds. The snb- fienranoiriitsondnitsv through which thewkter was conveyed, stUlremarni hm ihey-are now appropiated to other uses., OiMi^f HhiMj-^heneitth the ehnreh, is kept in order, for the »se (Df> the priests. When the Cossacks of the Black Se* #i%e«n»ived In* their n^w settleifient,- they eauied the water 4i^iiMv Into this imniense reservoir, fbr the use of their dat^ Skrfhal Ia4t siaffnated^ and proved extremely nn wholesome^ 4twas«llk«nrwards drained off. Crossing this area towadti -di€^ south, are seen the remahis of a temple, bnilt after tM ^€kaei«i mDde^ and of oonmderable size.. Here the woiie^ Hate emf^yedon the f&rtress dtseovered a eonsiderable • cqiiaaitty «f >ahetetkt matel'ii^, which they removed j snch .^y/tnarUe eolnms^ entaJllaltfres(nany of which had hiscri^ tianr) avadbie bass-re4ieft, andlpieees of Mulntnre, whieh > tlieyiiiave birrted in the 'foundation -of that edifice, or de- '4»tr«yed in waking' Mmct ' Near thersiasof this temple rsife alto those of some otherpnhlieedi free, which most hay*e ^been of prodigious size covering a great extent of ground. The marble, as well as other stones, which the ancients em- ployed io; the buildings: of Pbanagoria, are all subs taneen . foreign to the country. The Isle of Taman prod iiee» no- thing similar. The materials found there were brought ' 'either from the Crimea, from Greece, or, in later ftges, by the Genoese from Italy. Among the fragments oif tiueh • t An eotol^sttttfc, ivliieh^bey hftd brofceti fornWs purjiose, and VHfth .^Inreinoved, is described in p. 46 of the ticictwut of the Greek KarWes at eambrid8e,,\MD, XXtVi «- - ^--^ *' * * - ^ - : • '' ^ii eZ.AKti:E'S '^ItAVELS Itf' tAttTAirr; extraneous siibstances, T ofcseTrei upon tlie shore '^vwtfce productions of Tesuvius and could readily aceoimtfcrtlt^hr appearance, baring* often se^n the Genoese ballast Uteir vessels in the bay of Naples, where the beach is covered hf Tolcaniek prod acts. It will be necessary to attend to "Ais fact, lest such substances found upon the Bosporus, shoold hereafter be confounded with tbe prodnets of a roleairo, which is only twenty-seven miles distarft from Taman, call- ed by the Tartars Coocoo Obo^ and ivhieh the Tehfertio- niorski, now possessors of the country, distingnish by the name of Prekla,* The eruptions of Prekla, althoagha^** «ompan}ed by smoke and fire, have not yet been IbHowed fay any appearance of lava. Th^ produ<ct hd^s been a prodi-* gious discharge of viscous mud. The first^xplOstontiiok place onthe^Tth of February, 1794, at half past ei^t iir the morning: and was followed by the appearand of a column of fire, risins^ perpendicularly to the height of Wty" fathoms from the hill I have mentioned. This hill Is sita*^ ated in the middle of a broad, an&^ular isthmusV 6n th« northeast side of the bay of Taman, distai;it only eight miHet from t^t i^aee, in a direel linev aerosa the walar^ and ofiiy tenlVom Yenikal^, on the Orlflyean aide of the Bmi|NHvr« The particulars of this extraordinary phenomenon tircr^eii so mneh in detail by f^allas,t that it would beuselesa to re- ■ peat them here» Observations on sueh muddy voleanos na^ heen .published by MiiiUer^ aad hy K^empWy ia Gbe^r-*-, many ; and different travellers have ^ven an aceasnt <«f* similar eruptions of mud at Makuba in Sicily. At ]Miesenl there is nothing remarkable to be seen at Prekla, exeept boiling springs in the cavities whence the eraptioBs of fire and mod proceeded; and which) though perfectly cool, remain in a constant state of ebuilitioa.| • A term used also by the Mato-Russians, to signify Bell It is »e- markable, that the Icelanders should likewise have called their volcwio JBlskla, which has, perhaps, in dieir language^ the aame sigtufieatioii. t Vol. n. p. 318. i « We took a ride with our Cossack host, to see the mire fooDtains mentioned by Pallas. The first thing we were shown was a oireular area, resembling the crater of a small votoamh In the centre was • heap ef stones, which, with the sarroandmg mud, i^peared impregnated witii- aalphur. In one plsoe was a pool of water, witnout any pa!*tiQular' taste. ^ About 500 ^ards diatant was another circle, hut much smaller, all of soft ' tnud ; and in the centre was a little hole, whence slowly bubbled out a Maiueous, black fluid tike bilge water. By treading on mj piu<t of the ■Md, more matter oosed from the wound i fiw the whide 1^ Ofi& appear- M9ML T9X S^BfO^V$ TQ CAI^A«^ S^, Two .n^ttiible edaoms were Ijing before tho ehureh ^t Taman^each eonsistins of ooe entire bloek^ about eighteen inche» in diameter^ Their eapitals were of white marblei (although the shafts were of CipMno*) beautifully seulp- tiired, having a representation of a ram's head at each cor- ner^ the eurvin^ horns of whieh made them resemble the lontel^ order.. Almost ail the marble in Taman is of the ' kind called Gipolino. Near the eolumns were two marble lio^», a« lar^ as life, and each executed in one entire bleek. Representations of the lion, sometimes of colossal size, are coouoon upon these shores, left, probably, by the Genoese or Venetians. Tivo others were stationed before the door ef M^e ^neral's house. On the opposite side of the Bospo- rus are^jither remains of the same kind, particularly at Kerteby and at Yenikale. Near this latter place is a very laf 1^ o^ lying in the seai whioli may be seen in calm weathf r, althoogh under water. In the wall of the ehurch at TaiQaa we ob^rved two marble slabs .with inscriptions^ wJiieh t copied with difficulty, a9 they were covered with whi^wa^h. Kt^iti ime^ast tore;.. We titfuit onriftM^ lato the vnOi Int found «o ibclU«pi»f tat&bn witMnwing 1lM«i»»«iiwl«^l(iad of flnkl x«i»|hroucb,(ho * ;ape<:tiirei they \M loade. There w»ft aoothei*, precisely lisnilftr, at * §mall dist^m^e ; and vqry hear this last, a well of water resembling that of Hft^rowgste, in tastfe, Wacfl, and sparkihig.'* Bebet^t MS. Journal, • *' C?t>?>finoiay name ghrenhjr Italians io an impure marWe, <«rbioh. ... j- ♦ . •in !»/. 4. „.ju U*» .♦. Cv.*. • f . ... . ,<. ,. . ? ♦•-. .. » ^' ©HAPTEK XVllt. FROM THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS* l"© CAP^ A. ' 9as9age across the Straifs-^Yenikal^ — 3todem Cfreelts-^ Marble S&ros^^Sin^lar Ancient Sepulchre — Pharos of MUkradates — Medals of the Bosporus — Euins—Kertchy^ '^Tomb of Mithradatts — View of the: Cimnteriatf Straits ^'Antiquities of Kertchy — Jiceount of a Stranger who died there — Fmrtress — Church^^Havoek made by the Jlus- sian^-^Cause of the obscuritv which prevails concerning the •Ancient Topograf^y of the CrimeO'^Departurefrom Xjertchy^-Ancient Vallum^^Locusts — Venomous Insects '^QipsieS'^Cattle — Tartars — Vallum of Asander-^r- rival at Ct^tu WE setsaiLfiHMii Taman on the l^h of Julf . Theclis^ .tanee to Yenikai^, on tbe oppogite shore, is onlj eighteen Russian yersts, or twelve Endish miles. Pros<| perous gales, and placid weather, soon brought us miilivaj letween the European and Asaitiek eoasts ; and as t)iQ sea was tranquil^ I profited by the opportunity to delineate the view, both towards the Meeotis and the Euxine. Dolphius, 4B ^reat nambers, played about our ressel. These animals 1^ in pairs ; and it is remarkable how very aeeurafety their appearance corresponds with the deserijption given of them 1^ Pliny.* Arriving opposite Tenikale, or, a? it is fre- •iiently written, lenikal^^f we found a fleet of Turkisfi Mips waiting fkvourable winds, both for Taganroek aM.for Constantinople. Soon after we landed, we obtained !o(]§- wp^ in a neat and comfortable Greek mansion, the ownef •f whtob, by birth a Spartan, and a native of Misitra, wi^ » man of integrity and considerable informatien. Ilis wil^ wmA a native of Pares. We found tbeif dwelling kii asj- lum so ae^reeable, after our long Scythian penaneoy.yiit we remained there nearly a week. A wooden baliSonjf ^r 'e6' . • min. liist. I^at. m>.ix « fl. * / . /. ! \f Tennialeiscorapoimded •( tweTarkiah or Tartar word^, aifpttfkt^ nc^fimCatO^, .. ^^ , 1.1 9ftOii TSB BOSPOMirS TO CAFVA'. fXTS rtrtd siHery, to whiefc their priitcipal apartment opened, i^ve us a eonstantTiew of the Bosporus, with all the oppo- ttte Asiatiek eoaftt^ and of the numerous vessels which at this season of tho joar ai^ eoa'stavtfy passin*; to and fro. As the table of our host was free to every corner, we dined with people f^om almost all parts of Greece and Asia Mi- nor ; find their eonversatton^ as they-ali spoke Itttlian, was itttellieible and interesting. The natives of Cephalonia, a starSy. and athletiek raee, those of the Morea, of the isl- ands of ,i(ie Arehipels^o, of Gandiai the South Coast of the Black ^ea, Trebisimd, Amasra, and Constantinople, amused us by the singularity of their dress and manners, all well as fay their eonversatlon. The hoose of Kerilkki, fprthat was the name of our host, was a sort of render voas, at which thej all met, once in a year, in their Voyage to and from I^Tuganrock.* ^Uis windows were fhll of' books, priAtod at Venice, in the modem Greek* language, alttiovgh tl^ characters exaetly correspopd with those in nse among us; and his boys, during evening, read to htm the popular poem of Krotoeritus, the Life of Alexander, with the extra- ordinary anecdotes of hdb horscf Bucephalus, and the hfl- tbfy of the ancient kings of Byzantium. Their mode .'of pronouncing Greek is maeh softer than ours, and more like Italian; but they understood me when I endeavoured to read Greek after their manner. Amon^ all the Greeks^ the letter /3 is sounded like our V ; and it is very doiAitfol whether iliis was not the case in ancient times. t The im» lives of the Crimea ^till call the town of Kertchy Vo8por$ and the straits VospoVf althon^ tkey write the word oos* por:. It is worth while to Inquire into the origin of tbo very popular poem of firotoeritns ; since, although in rhyme^ and certainly of no ancient date, the traditions o»d the nto^ Hes on which it is founded are common all over Greeeeii knd constitute the favourite topiok of their evening taks^ They pretend that the palace of Erotoerttos is stiU to he seen, at a place called tktvA CaUmnm^ near Athens i allin* ding evidently to the promontory . and temple of finntuittt Upon the walls of Keriikt's aparUnente were rode dra«^ • ThenameoftlkifeplRee ifould be more property TagQtirog^ as Mr, Heberuiufennl}^ writes U. \ The late professor Ponon believed that the aoeient CroaefcB pronotaa- eed the^ as we do^ and, in proof of his opinioD, used to cite tUa r^«e if lags) ^^iiM^nliiigsfi(j«et9kAEt«i4hi«i>ftreeS«« ki^rf f^miij aoiont^ 4)therg, wag one c>f Htrtillet, in a hekiM9l aod eoat «f mail, destroying the Hj&rm^ but thej k«ieWifo(liiiig of the name of the ht^o, saying merely that it^Hs tite (Hetnte tf a Mrarriottf once famovs in Glreeee^ and ' veUkin^ ^anj extrarag^ant tales of kls yalonir^ perlfapsflnok* ao «iiee formed the fouadatioa of those poetiek fame^. whiek aneient writers hare handed down, vi^itti higfter authority, 'to mo- dem times. The heads of the 'yoong Greeks, both male fl^nd female, are ftill of such stories } and as tliey mnefa delight in long recitals, these relations eon^tituleth^ sub- jeet of their songs and diseoursel. In the Islands H^ -va- grant hards and Improvmsatori-i, %vh(i, like Hoiner of old^ enter villages and towns to eoUec talms^ by singing or reeit- Mig the traditions of tlie eountry* It wefmay judge of the Greeks in general, from the view we had of them in this part of the Crimea, they are renanrk- able for cleanliness^ and for the altentimi paid to deeency, ftnd order in their dn^llings. Thewofnett are, perhaps^ the most indtistrious housewives upon earth, and entirely, the slaves of the family. Tl^ir eooker^ is simple and wholes Home. We never saw them i<lle. They have no desire to go abroad ; and, if the employments of the house admit of flieir sitting down for a short time, lhey*begiii to spin, or to wind eotton. Yefitkal^' is almost wholly inhabited by Greeks. The men are, for the most part, absorbed in mer- cenary speculations $ but the women are gentle, humane, oblhring, and deserving of the highest praise. ^oie fortress of Yenikale, from wiiieh the place hat derived its present name,* stands u|H>n some high tfHSk above the town. In one of its towers is a fountain) and the foarce froui whence k is derived supplies a eondnit on tha outside, near the base. The stream news in by aquednets, trom a spring, said by the inhabitants to he fouf^ miles dis« tatit; aad it falls, At the bottom of the tower; into the €$£irU ty of an ancient marble sorosi, allnded to in' the preceediag mipter.t This $&ro9 is of one entire block of* white marble, of the wtight of two orthrfee tons, and now uded as the ptthiiek washing trough of the town. . They tell thestory oefore related^eoncernm^ its. discovery injMie of the tombs of the Isle of Taman jand it is probably th^ CP- yerof tiiat to wliiehMotraye refers in his jouruey iSrom IV^ • See a former Note, p. 274. V T-.^SS . ?IMM l9?«vltMle«^ KrwiiAts inrtrted pvvtiaii, I wms prerenr- 4 ^4.i)oiicipgi|ii iiidcriptiofi 8i&«e dts^vered open the (op.ef » it, 4»hI yfhmk Ihave not be? aable to obtain. We were ns* «:«iil^ b^ pei!90ii9 residing 4herey that wben thej be$;aa the ^Q|[f^vaitiQO» at Tama&9 for materiaU to build tbe fortress, .;jLb^ number of f^rthenvf are rases, and other antiqaities, /^i^overed by^ the worktneii, was truly ailtonisbf ng ; that .ilQldiers ^ere se^ii \iith ian(i<]ue veiiseU sospeoded bj x ^Uri^ng, tweaty or thirty at a time, whieh have sinee been ]Uroke9 and dUpec^ed^ Perhaps the reader is inclined witL iii^(Si to 0<3i»8ider. thi« part of tbe representation as greatly ^l^afM^ralietd. r Our host, however,, pr^esented one smalt ear^H vase wiueh a slave brought home, who ha<l been employed with^othj&rs in. digging near the ehureh at Yeai- kale. They foand a pit, eo&tiUEii&g a 4iione sepulehre, of ^^e^ealirj^ aa^t, bat i^ a eyliadHcal form, sitaped Ilka the nsovith of a weif^ and eovered by a slab of marble. lo thia c^liBdet they .diseavored.AD aval ball^ the outside of wbieli was a iutiag of wjiite eeiaent resembling mortar. Wheii y^ey i^d taken oft' this exteciojur crust, tliere appearedit mrithio th«^ haili tbe amall «ariheii yase I haye mentioned, jfUled with asheS) and alosed by a representation of Medu« s^'a^haad, wrought in a suhstanoe aimilar to tbe cement ^hich eovered the vase.f In their eare to cleanse the vect fe], they had destroyed almost every traee of some bli^k ^HrQ$ upon its exteriour.jMirface^ From the rode strus^ tiHT^^f thUr^iick, a^nd tlte maaner of its interment, so dif- ferent from the.praetieo used by the Greeks at any known pi^iod of th^ir lusiory, or that of any other nation, it is impos&ible to determine what degree of antiquity it. may §|NMMiii#, After the refleotion, that full Iborieea hnndroil j^ii^.bt^pre oar era, a .eomraeree was earried an in tbis ^0fiQf^;^y5 iuiaginatina may indulge in aonje^ores. caleala*- t«4f pih^dfr^ 4ftiit4vatt ttonversatien, hat ill anited to tha ^^r of writings whose aim is to illustratei' rather tbap ^aerplej^ tbo pf^ of hUtory. '^^»3^bou); four oiil«« from Yenikaie, towards the Meeotis, ol^ a^,rfiek. iidvati^oed m the sea, is the pi^nt on whieh the an^ ^jpt Ph^rTos forasefiyatood ; and this spot Is still ealkd by •*»*'^Sife the Blctraet frota Motraye'i TraveU, iii f. ^T5 of tWs rolume. :; This <drtunistimoe is notieed in the acoonni of Ihe CaiuhridKe Utar- Aipipebd^ipJ 77 1 ^bere tbeireader imiliMl the Mbjetit «r ti^ re« iftlile symbol, and its yarport ki the He|itheii ^yt|»o)pjg;Y, briefly ^' m flfrS * CLJUMtB^S THAVKLf III T^MtAKY- tn pUlici*languas;e, implies a lantern pffighthousei. Thf ruins qf the old t'ouqilation ate still visible.. X^^ditiai) a3»- ^^rtbes it to the time of JVlithridates^ and the modern 6re(sl(9 generally hestow upon U the name of PIi^nariMitradiUt It was a Worii btf peculiar necessity, althx>i^§h Jqii^.^haii- Jbned; sliic?? vessel^ earning thfouglk the Straits .are ^lili^ ged to keep ijlose to the Crimeah coast, .for want pf-wfttir, towards the middle of the passage, as well as on the otlifjr side. Accidentf frequently happen. ', A large Turkub '^erehant vessel ran, aground upon the sballows 19 .^e -southern extreii^it;jr of the Bosporjus wliile wp wer^ tbe^; ' ' and oue of the Uiissian frigates pfissinj up the Straitft} wit^ ' three times slrknded fn view; of Fenikale* J ., . . ^ The B^edals «rf the Bosporus are. among the most rare ia the c;ahi9et». ot B^rQpe. . We 6Qlk^A.^a.f«w in.Yeaikft]^. Among; these were e^rtaii> of the BQ«pm*Un kiQ^^tlz.|»iie of iPserisades, in very small hronzei one of ^tteamates the First, in bronze, of the middle .si^e f, twai>f> Blifaeu^ 'porifttlie First,' in small bronze; one of Mithraadaleilbe Second, r^tb^.Jiar^r^ and. others ^bqse raal liUt^ry it woiild havebeeii difficult to determine^ if it hadii«t b^en for4be ligitt tbrvi^n uboa tbis» by ^eMtni** Uf lbe4Mter ^^ffrtpti^^n i« a smaU Wttxe ttiedal, havtn|^ in ft'^ntti; bitilt .. h!ttling9 and for the reverse, H Hmp hr H^ht tower,- With • the letters n API, , 'Jbis b proved by the Ainsley CoHeetion to he lit medal »f Pariam^ althoagh eainl^ mis(jak«nlur4itte ©f tbe isknd of Pafos. We ebtained .|tho Mt»^ brcJnze medals, #hicb had evidently been derived, frpm the saine . colony, of Myisia, viz« an. imperial medal af Galbay I wo «f , jMi^tiDian^.ttud one of Lieinius-; also, a LatfTi/^9tffo«i«m0'9^of great rarity, fiith tbe' head of a ftornan ettipi-essln frot^t ; paving f^r the; reverjjf » an anipbora, vv^itb the Jetttri 0« J). . JDecr^tQjkQuriomum* Tbis: last wMiid 1iav*e beeto ^^oHy Inexpltimble to'mef hut forthe observations of theiearned Sestinl . upoti one of a similar tiature.t Qoncerning tbe l^epref entiktioa gii^t n« JxAm. -a fine »silv«r tetrftdJ^€bm^• of Mithradateo^theOriHiti, a«d a ^mall dt^^ tbeFh^tJt slr^^ld be, saidy ihstt 4be. eoina of 4hese kiifgfi . w^ere not strupk lii Bosporus, oeilber were they fofiiid there. " ' Vkok BOsVoaus ' TO o af fa/' • i7i fj^rtiinWIAciii, after' we leh the Crimed, in tht'haxars pf ^CoHstanHrtG^ls. My observations upon ail of tlMm uitl he brief; tend even these must he reserved for a note ; because NairtfsiiMttiek dissertations involve diseussioH, tn itself tinffierefit'to i)ci*upy a volume.' The reader who maj winh to sree'the siibiecrtreated more at lar^e, wifl firul satis^ctory *fttforiViatiort in Cary^s History of the Ring's of ihe €imra*e- r^iati Bospbrus ;* in the posthumous ^ork of Yaiilanl ft tho 'Wsserl^tion of ^oueiet;| anily^bove alK in the second vo- ^iim^^bf Eici^hU ^ writing which, iflhey do not compensate^ ^erVetif t'l^ndei' less Sensible the loss Hterafure sustained by ^-thretdtardtmlhilafion of those records of Trogiis Pom pe'iusi ^Hi'hielfmighti^avedi^pell^d'the darkness in h hiah the Bos* iporian dynasties 'are involved,^ .* 'tl!lfttQh<eidef lUit (k Bl6«|^bove tXtnmerittu TJt\9^ 1 7t& q[aaitO. ^'■'i-'Aeinnir^nidiiiiim Imp^iritim^'ftivQ Regam PonU, Bospoii; kf. tfic- ^ yniafe. dlHfabl! d^' Kdtt dtt Bosij^Hone ClmmerionVpar fkMoiciet! Pant» -«i9^.^kito.'' i' N' ••• ''"•;•• "^ , *■ f >l06f ^a^ KViradran^ V^^ert^n^. k Jos^ tc\M, Tmt I. vol U. p. dSO* :iVid<Uibon4.t7l»4:qiidrto.. . >' » : ^ J-- «f kH>tte*!Tfedais^rt!lie'6nfily*6r1ilklr!af8fecV, vMhcrTcbigsoft^ontb*, . 'Imrtp. tbe^ sulijvnitioiv'of^ t&e BcS^ttwt, cA* Mioeeisoori Y>rMithriAAe« '<be grefit. llftv-e th^iv pwae i#rkten .MJa?AAATH:f, md aot MiQPlA- A TOJ. It Ts, therefore^ ejstraoixlmarjj. that the learui^ yritersto whose * ' %oi^^ I'WvA so "recently refert'ed, wiili VnU foet b^i9i*e th'^ir eyes, continne ' «lKr«crni|ifeed i>rtiioc;iiii^, And wt-iee JkfitiBftnMiiM, - %4)ictt fi certaiulr «. .AOi.oAl^ertwe«i)4^ ^m ivhplly inooniistent/wHH tlir tme ^Httntal et^^mof- oof of th<^ ^o'^i . Neither are raepair tkc only idoow&fiStf wMijh A^BBrd '^iiwlority €<ft wini^^ li' MitKr'nddtei'; 'as tW inscrip^oua ox^ fereek roar- > ^levSeaf tkt ttam«^le|^tid/ If isartifl^is^^ heW«t'ei*i i^bich begata ^hb the iJ^OQianf Ihefpselveei and has conUaoed fi^errsmee. .The «^me people . vho, wrote MaseiUa. (o^ M^:^X^A^A, wd JI«faoftni«?«»'%, .MAi5AN- ' 'ASXAj* *nd deduced A^A^enium Ti-om "A'^"l*ArAj,*wouVJ, of cpufse, * WrSfe <W»Ai4ifetft* f(Jj« ^MKdl^AA'ATHS'.:-' With' fhe" exception «f the nor- V ]\nStmf (^leiStnft^r, I iJiink Itiere1»b6loantefaioee ertpress^ oA Al4(IaI» - jr,>^„ '-' lietongsiofli^ series rif the ftrrt 'And second dynasty, in \yhich the si^cees* *j'Mtoh' (WltttiHef oil thevarehffifttiacifi)«r^ Vej^niti^ whIHheyearof K6ti^ 207, and ending 309, or with the more immediate pi^edecessors of Mit)iijidate8^ ^•'Ibbmr Spartii^'to PteriM^s) tewBttotwdet^rai^ned. ' MlthriiidHies^gaa his reign in Bosporus by the e<^<Mi «r. PvoMdec* iQthe^year>'or Rome 639 viz. One hundred ami fifteen years before Chritt« .Xhe %)«poriBii era begins with the year of Rome 457 (viz. two hundred and ninety seven years before Christ) au4 eDda ia the tine of CoMUntiac tbo W^^ '^ ^ ' I» i%e rfiort dMtanee fraM Yeiii|Eal^*t« MtkrU^, yiAMk it Httle more than eleren versls, or seven Eof^^lMh mtits, wo «Hserved upon (he elifts above tlie Boiporns! many remaiiw )Of atitieiit buflffio^s; and the prodigious nimiher of taoniK, firhich every u^here appeared^ eould only be eomnaredtotho Jioduleson Che onttide of a pine-apple. About halfway on 4he ri{!»tit hand side of the road apfieared a staUmD of Itoie- ^one, hewn in a semi-circttlar manner, so as to present «a urea, the sides of which were thirty feet perpendieuiar. la the middle of this area yve found a deep well, hewn in the tfolid rock. The Tartar peasantsneav tt assured us, that Us sides were (hose of a vast cylinder of marble, buried in 4he soil; but it was evidently a channel bored thnragh the roek. The work must have required great iahoucthf depth to the water being at least fifty feet, without including the further depth of the well, which we were not able to ascer- iiii ti« T he Tartars draw water from i t for thei r sheep and goats, by means of a leathern bucket. The town of Kertehy, standing on the side itf tiie Undent P&nticapseum, is now reduced to extreme wretchedness and iasigni&cauce. It was, not long since, of considerable co&iie«* ^at lUe monarchj eontinueU at least eight handred years. Jt is proper to pay particular attenilon to tliis circumstauoe, as many of tlie Bosporiati IDirdals have their dates upon the obverse side. Thracian medida haro the same peeu&it^ity : but there is an easy method of distitignishiDg a ^hraciaii fi-om a Bosporian medal. Upon the Thracian, the Omega Is -»rlUe.ii 1*, and the Sigma ^, Upon the Bosporian, the Ofnegfi it writ- tea a> and the Sigma C. B^ due attention to this Very evident enteriOi^ jouch confusion may be avoided. Polemo the first succeeded to the throne of Bosporus twelre or*thirteen Years before Christ, The medals of this king are extremely rarei Th^ head of Marc Antony, or of Au^stus, generally appears upon the obverse Hide, to whom he was indebted for tlie kingdom. . He was |>rie8tof a tern* pie in Rome coosecrated to Augustus, as aupears by a curious inscriptiou ^irescrred by Gary. [^Hish dea Hois du Botphore, p. 41. ] Immediately sifur PoleiTiO, succeeded Snuromntcs the first ; upon whose medals we see tlie interesting representation oi* tlie regalia sent fiHUU Rome lor Ins coro^ ii&tion. The Icttei's MH, in a wreath or crown of laiire]« have not liilherto been explained. The medals of this king, whether in ttlver or bi%>u£e» oresoritro as to be considered almost unique. fSee Heklttl, Duct. J\ urn. Vet. \o\. II. p. 370.] Sauromates, as well as his successour Hlicsouporis the fust, took the name of Tibei'iut JuUu*, to which an iii- scvtiittou nt Tainan i^efers. Pelleiin bus preserved the legem! on t^is jiicdal entire'.' T . lOTAiOr BACiaEaC CATPOMATOT. Saaroiuatcr jitid' R}te&eu])driB were kings of Bosporus only. Rheseuporis reigned id • in tli-c thirty cigh^year of our era ; after whom,' A . D. came Mitlinuialei the second. '^N&reralvf^ftttabltMttfivHlefttro'yedf-iio lets than five tlM«- tend lioiise«i &teb4ttitsif»Mi0^ tJbe4«gai«eat.Bf (be 8osp»* rli^tt lElii^v«^ee4iM» HntitMe «f Milhmdales, will ever he ^bnn^ered an kiKereft^iii^^'if n0t4ui4mperU8t piaee, for t be #ei^arebes bf lb0 liist^imii. OQr«fit8titiqHiryamoag the^w Qreefes settled Hifere wa^^lvr medals f and seiperai wete %roit$kV bat, foMbe-mest pari, so maeb injured astebe afeareety worlbtietiee<' 1 obiakied ane^ however, ia bronze, eT ^diifereifftdesertptta«^, wbieh ^Wf0 me f he^%hest ^atlfieai^ t»b f fM-«fter bestewiaar » Uttlereare iri.reiaevtng^'the hard II Dpeai!* ^Ihebead-^f^one'of^tbe Bdsporian kim^ ; aodfortrie re* Tiftrse, a'hee«e'graffTOsf5 wHb ibe'legead befe given. • ^' 'Tbet^adifietrs'^f Kertchy are in.direet eeatradietion ^ history .* for they relate Hot mily that Milliradate« died here^ bat that ht ifasbbried a8hort'di»^anee€retti Ibe tawo, where ^Mitvfstiif pf^tend (0 abow hie temb.f It ia, perhaps, a Mile«^ Stan natk; brit its liei§»fet aadeiae are se remarkable, Ibai it is scarcely possible to beliere it the result of human labour. Among the Greek inhabitants of Kertehy it bearS i^e nttme of the ^mb of Mithradates* The Russians are liot contented With' show'Sng bis tomb; they aise point out his palaee, and conduct strangers for that purpose to tha lop ef a iriatural hill or mountain above the tows. They deceived general Suvarof to such a dea^ree when he visited the place, t}iat being told it ivas the seputehre ef so great a &ero, the veteraa soldier knelt upon the ground and wept; We visited that which is pointed out by tiie Oreeks^t is four ▼ersts distant from Kertehy? o^ar ^^^ road leading to Caffii. The Tartars call it Miyn O&o, and have a tradition that it aontains a treasure, guarded by a virgin, who here spenda ier nights in lamentations.^ It stands on the most elevated * Eekhel {[voi. II. p. SJ notiee« the siune remarkable ]^ge&d» as^ad 5in the medalB of PanticapsBum. <, f MUhr^uiate8,aecordia^ to Appian^ yas buried by Pompey at Sm^e» M&OPg the sepukhres of his aneestorft. t See Pillas's Trayeb, ▼ol. II. p. 281. It is worthy of oUerratkm, tliat Fallas, being |kahTe to reeprteiFe tals sarprisingtumuhuiritbany referenet^' to the real his!^ crfHhefrite^tft^toI'Mithradates, or bi» own oocioiif of prohalnUty m an artifidi^ beapj endeavotun to acoOtiot for it by a tiat^til Ippoecfls. Bb« • ' ' ^^-"-■'' mien niimd. Oae tMtig eooicttnHBg tfafe u«iiiiili»if iviirjr fee^ mm9hM9r aiWI imiy «)«firai> tli« 'fieHofi'itii^erlitiiiedliof'iU ffftifieMdiOrtgiik It irvlaaedeiMetlyapttiijkhcTAihimvl^olii tiintiill tlie inner bairierof tlm Boifvr'Mni ^enfike; ; ^kii worl?ttiU»siit»iitati€ntlire* ftlatey >bdvid|f<«i'oMfei»l'r«at^ «|iil4>assiMg^ aefOM iMs pAit-ofilM peiiibsoki ihjAnirtitiBdlf ilrtetkfr'INi^ iht AliM Obo/to tlte>Scb. df jLasofj '< dewenil •tb€r^«iiifilar'lM!apft'oras4JMlt9kbi|; fine sr^/idilsated nnc Slatni tielow are' oftV^red with atlifehi4i€smaiM iaoUaiMoiHi rhefe'is y«t4i«»lhe^<iifc4mgtaiMt'W|^ctfaji)ofiiM>t|ae«s( B'ea ^otid ilie^vaUiffi^ to (He ^Hieit ib<^e a««:Bai4iifinIi$iAlUioi|^ tilt? are «o tttfmi^/iiift'^Q ils eatfftenr gide^ fthatlaita«a^y'.«A ttrvTatifc)^ iif'aU MM jduvMy taward«>iCaf»; am^ b«rar« Itrpfvlttt*^ a« that plat»e,'l]le3r'alti^tiiei;indlpjifftP^ » Afiterti ^ards, lir^««4ta^ to f li« >Bife 4f ^fifiiitr* <Cf««H5(^|ie^ »«| ^k4)a$ usi/ftl ia aii^SetitttHftuli^ ititl mtyBhsf wamsfilul i«»f4. * I(g I gid«l pile(«eii< tliat^atiffMadods ttMRUMry ^ifJkiiUi'ii 'Witn ik ihe walM of^Titynfc, 'hear Ai^M^^iir 4Ae> Mat0«it "Mfa^e'inthveiK^^'uMiuiipeir maHireBof stone «mieilplfcMeK44<if f^t%er'\tithoQteemeiil^ ae40rdia|^^tifeir aasii^eplal bnaa 4rk4 we8(«<i^n«iM^ is'eiitire, altketigh thetollwfe.ikaw^fA^ * leu. Lookin^tfamir^tlie tiiterdtifeea;aiid ya,wii«9»ttliaaiRl lif tflls ttfiil«iitl^ -AitdexttitilHinGt lhe:ekciit«tfott»/iiiifedei^[HiB its ettmmitywe foandtt^ like the Cairat ttf Sca^hMid^tar«(Mir Wet whi^iy ef stbnee 4»eftped toj^ejihetf katifaii eneliMir 'kef^a>'ed jamot^ ar^iietal'canetraetio.n^ and eihl^ilifliOiLtf^ 'i4al9«f f^reater ttia^itttdei it keuu bi Jii^veikQea (baMl- ^mo'^tW^^Vin #hiek tkeeelieapewfonetiiTiuiedfU^ ,lu»Bg %tefi«fi, ofe* parcele i^i- earth, frem-alipahs.eCtilif^sQoiiaMy •leTka't'emb'of a'tieoeasedsoirereigi^'fir oearrehMtileo. ./ip •jBa<ta^t(ifte^pena-graVe^wa^«Miaei- of lo^lly ^ jpiMiKS -Md a t»tym<^ of IVieadeliip ot« affeOtiaR in the aiirthaf S^iM- Uttd^HVtieistft, \^hieh impKes, << IwiU amP.a aoM^^tfim :thy cafm'i'' but Cheliean «o rainkl eonsrsted.af Jbetfegl* '^eoog «iibdtkTree^; granite and Hmeetosev f raeaH^t^taf vOi- ' eantekroekr, pebbiei^freni the seeabore, mid fr^ni ihelHMli of rivers, promUeuotisly anxed^ and f i^e^pieatljL eo^eHMl .lur ,et}pe^ineinab^Bt^artki Staneewere geaMiUjlttae4iii pAI- - ^^ ^'•»^<»^i> »r» Pallaa, tlt^' tmciciit fiimmerium i (1'vavelS/i(( the l^cwjh oFTUwia/Torn; jj. acoylin tt^rc se<!i)ftimiri'eiari0 li«rike* ^m^jm^^. Hib J%R,Moman9tt.«i% idJiiftbeiilHMl^lilAamil Md IJb^* ti|upeii«Uat0*lmi<nteri«iir •fithU linqieii^^ i^le.. . H^ke T«r* iMTs^ lHiiiratBied;ki tviUn Itrnffael: <% p»9i»s?;<JM th^ 4Um« AtHioiaoDii^lKin^U tfaqr prd«f*ftd», aqd/ mni^^ tt^rlajbopir tiMiij^i |[«^ tfacyi.liaflleijA/iradMlm^r Unit .%b jeotr^ne^ wm «ii«d4eeo«iB4ipiieA;('ftiKirpr6t'e^ Uie ieterifivt it^li$^r«tttt*]«iUift;the|ri8lio<iMi'iW0iQ|l ^^lf^#i)Ml ^tMifiuig rliniriif otAfeiT^jM|lilp«Albe.A^^iebAi(U ,o^ tl|Q B(i«p% •iUiLilfl(ii4ippMM#iii«»iio)f^i^^ft jp Mb^c^^wbd: wiioli bUtH) 4u»S4bmed«AdiNibj«ikdio.iJ^irii|imiPti(^ .,„ a . « tt^-^^nr'fatfwlkbtttkftitvpiiif tb4^%ii Oft^M Si44«f ^fi^ml ^'tb^Onmkmi»- h rMs0i»f,!ti«iiIar :l|«9#«)o^tJi|||^»iailf timloDrf ndff&Mi wliiift Ihif liif»HU|» fttiMi4»9tbe,wJi<d9 nvajr ^tto mkUfAt^i^tdd mf iksi^ BQ«|ior4l^ii9 wan ipl^^,« . t b^t ifi t^ ^|ll9s/iupbnUke#prao^lW!«t|au)rl)4^ i^.wtmo^ JMLil^qidMf^ aSino>o«lifeffi«pot4«»nii»(^iwitKabQ^Jii^:p{ l^^<^^Pf»a#» ^t>t%ftis«ide of lihe^lfak. X^ieipftl^fNii^l^ J^itWadalesi^My *telLllf^fllballHitpr,;«lbM»i«ft; .^^DdrUie.tr&f^ of Jt^^(»4i^di^ ^^kKb({|*«ikiji kko.& <ivtiri»;9l|iri)^^ ^Qjie^jf .tl^ ^tdMPkPtfael im«§|ii^4iiMr« <4MlJMP^» i^()^PHiCkl|o.t s 9 Hme JL\,iji tb^ nearest to the Hpeietator in the series $ the pretended the wesif, arid TchiriediarMy im tlte%atiri#r M' vuliviif, lnjkf&4 Which, as stated before, ihnh^ mon^n^eifts eeMe it appear. It was surrounded, near the^vfertei: <if its ebti^, iHth n eir«ir-' lar wall of stones, plaeed re^tilariy together, btttMitlnrot aHy cement. Part 6? it is stHl eiffirc?? fttfdv pefkapsj tke whole was formerijr eov^.r^ by a dome, ot whiek the w«flf was ori^inHlIy the base t for extfotly «ifdi «ttolhtr wfcllsbr^ mounted the top of the tamalot, ok^n ^aWtd 1^ - Bdi*r&wp of iSlchiites, in the plain of Troy. ' Beyondtbift rid^,aiHl tnese tombs, the View eomprehiirids the whole of tli^Ciin*' merian Bosporas, the hiirbdf^r of PaAtieapeeom, the oppo- site eoast of Phanagorfa, JPr^to voltoivo, iind a ^«at Tari>> cty of obiects, aiti on g which, attfat time we* were there, the passing fleets of Bdropeinriind Asintick tnerehsiBfts fb*om n\\ the ports of the Black 8ea, the Anihipelago, and th^ Med- iterranean, were not the least* tntere^tnig. ' Dn nl 1* the rfSt^ tant promontories towards the easC,orer all the plahi» bc4otr, and wherever else the eye ^daid roottK^ eseept be}H>Bd*th6 Bosporian vallum, appeared the ancient tumuU mi ofUm described. These tumuli, as w^lt as thehntis, were ecrwred with wild thyme, which swarms of loeast»wei%de<reln*iii$i - Th6 earth seemed also alive with a speeiesdf tdad, dftseii*' bed 1[)y Pdllas, ealled the Rafia varmbilis <5rawfin|^ti)i tf the very summits of the hifi;fhest hilbt It haiS*: a'-smoothcfr^ skin than the eommon tna^, is smaller, -more -aistive^ tfnd eovered with round spots, whose beavtylessens-the'di^Mt of beholding the most deformed and hMNrible* repttietn tudi ' abundanee.* ' . • . • » There is, perhaps; no plaee tn theCrraiea^' wlm#'tfie traveller Will find so many antiqnitiea aatft-KerCiidiy. The peasantsr gladly exehanee, ibr« feweepeeks, lAemBbiest . coins which thev haVe diseoVered in the'soitl; ihA wiM«'«f the tbwn are fhil of 'broken and elitire inarhfe»,'with baa^ • reliefs and inseriptions negieeled or Hiined. Bom^- of the' latter are used-as steps berate thef di^rsof their h«HMf9,*«r serve, as at Yenikale amcm^ ofher materiafts^r biHldiagw Many of the inhabitants have pdaeedaiieimil Greek mal*hli^ ^ver their doors bv way of ornament ; but without any know^ kdge of their real aature, or even common attention to the ]ftbsitioB of thefieures; so that they are seen in all diree<- tions, sometineslying sideways in a wally or^wholly in^ verted. A number of interesting relieks. of this kind were * T^ Mqtia ri$tisma iji vigo i^vnd^fGieBtfy ia tbi? part of ^ Cfi- .Mwmi^min ai#jM*itiift 'vo^pAwgi^ s^, arrive^; tbr ibey «ad eo]le«^«d them a» snbtfaiices for the Yepttti'sof llie church. I purfthas^4 three Terj remarkable sfab$.of antique marUeywUh the yAew af ftendin); them to Oalnbndge.; bul a dispute arifiui^ amoDf; the proprietors eoneerntns the drnftioa-Df the fenaof y^ the hatpin vta% set aside^ aad the marbles -were^ detaioed. They^ have since been described iathe woiik puUislied by JPailas, after his Travels in the Baath of Russia^ where the reader will also find the«i aeenmlely di^inl^ted. Mn T^iedddl, ofTriuity Cali^e^.Cambii4s^ h^ raeently^ visited this copntry^ and he left with Praf^ssov Pallas kis^own i^autifnl transcripts of every tosertptioafoaQd herei.fj^n^ which docvments they w<M^piihli8hadVjp..ihefPr«»&ssor>hut without any iliustr^- tion; tkeisifiarldba^ag lost, in Mr« Tweddeli's untimely deatk,'jaidrlhe subse^piaa4difapp«sai*an«e of his journals at CaasHaittinoplev In I7a9>, as. yet. anetipMunedy all the iofor- ^ matimi 'his g^at . ftniaireoieats enabled ,him to afford.* Upan.th^^ hasrelieft 4if tke^BespATiis, the remarkable repre- . aeotatieoi af an eqnaslriaaigare^ attended b^ a. youth, is sq aftent^esated^ that- it oii^t aat to pass withoiLt observa^ ^. tian; hiit.tt liashitherlareeei<ired4iQexplanation.t Perhaps^ apasfa^ia Ii<a*oiiiituft maytkKow so^e light upon the saMeet. . He rdsitei, that (he SeytJkiaiMi MUed their slaves . and finest horses^^and after taking oat their ^ntrails^.stufied. !. iham yidih straw, and set tkem.ujp^ as enuesirian igures in hoaa&rofttlieirkta^|.« f . It is from P^atieapceum'that the imi^inary Anaehax:sis of ^ Bart^i€«6|y £» ^aaid t» Have emh^riced far his travels in Gnseee. zlera aho^ m aaeieBt' ttmeg^ ste^ a temple of * JEaeaiapiua; ht wjueb was preserved the veiwel , of brass/ meptiomad la the Anthaioeia, ashavilis harit ineonsequence , of a sevarefroalopoa the Bosporas»$ l^aay futare traveller . ahaiild look far .the. site of that: temple wh^a the present.^' elwreh of Kevtefay staadky be will ftot, perhaps^ be far froiji j the^ truth. Upoa the intmdaelioa.i^ Christianity, espje.-r ,. eially ineottmriei^ wkare il wholly, sapartedj^d the aaeiei^t ^ * See the observations which occur iti the Naval Chronicle, vol. XXIU.' "J p. 51, eVitlciiitly written by an eye-witness of the faotB wbkh herelates.- ; » •f One ofthera is preserved among th'e Caiiibrige ftiatbtes.' Seetfce * accottut pohKshisd it tli<? tJniverwty Fpcm, 1 8«S o«ta*t)j pp^ 4, ff.- • : *' "' * + Hfcrodot: Melp/rs. ' * "^ • ^- ''^ 5 •'• ' v ' '.~:j A!r«holbgW'^ittn«lR*^ti>li*iO[.p,^i.. .> ..,.,\ .^ » •■ hmA diedilieceal>a.«aiiWttptflMYoiite^yearsl»ieftiire,ul9d |pt^ e4Qpi^ieidi» EmtiAiidf «He*d€8^rAted<llte^iiigceiu^-Es me whQ. iMbd emplanrM tall tlie kittei* pa^- oMils life itt wr^- ' tin^ anaoffomit nf .lh»Attliiquitie»ofllie'OYiiiieft'; ^hio $e!« 4om teoAvtnedi^ Ihi4 apnifr aU'4iw*tiaie in cltfs« lep^i^tioi to kis gtofi0»9 49d ttkimatel3f^^e4 of wftirf; «lili^Q«gh ht woald not aekiMi^ilf^Q iMdiaH^n/ We^sited Hk oottagfe where his effi^ota w^m pr«Berwd.« > Near a witkdb^ h^ aa odd Toiuve^ Ai!iialto.|. and .tint >%¥«» i^Mitid 'hi Im' th^'oiilj hoal^ r«sar?e4 lar U^ Iftltt Iminiy aH the reM ii«^^fo^k3ed apby.hbisdf. aftJborltimeii^eM^lmMHH. itf m cbnier •I hk misanaUe |»td*«oaai^^ibodl'aii- Bn^isk tr(tfik,-wHb ih loek turned towMda4.l|»«««ii Tli«tild«waMaht>f thtfliftase •aid «he wad afriud la.oMive^h. .Wliea^)*^^ fnfne^ It,' we found U sealad^and&fiaptfr Ikaikimi^eHii^ tiie^l^Mt', Vilh a loncyvrUtef iabe«||tiaa la^taodimi' Oiiedcrjifarpbrthrg that the tniak fthoaM te Hient *aiioi^«iled to IR9*brol>e^ ^t^ Cop»taatiaoylfe ;. whaahw>t^iquwciltat#ly erd^Nnl tb Wddne* Theinseiijitiaii ended witlft moBaelii^^theT^ns^aYfce'of ti\ the aaiatfrtiid devib'io the wreteh -wf o «fi«ttd dare td hreitk the «eal9 iuui«iMfpiel lk»6oRteiitref the trunk; > Ej^terins thelbnresi^ miw^H Aiiti»« ure ^awhefare ^e gftto . a beautifurniachie f^nlain, said to'be- th« wtirk of Tu?ks $ liut eoiap#fed af jACftaC'ViaierhiN, tanid bf^Mlileh exhi- hited Tarklili dbaraetten^aiid^tftfieraOreekifiiK^riptfong of ,aM>re remold ^4ta. - Over thto'^nfrattaee ia ofie of trie large marble Uoas /nfeeii^Mwdiii a^brmtr^ws^^lhe'detiees of Yeaiee or Geiioa^ aad ;iiiafWe «olif«ivn%, VitK'fi''ag!iieMs of marble eetabkttiifee^ KeHaeattevcd abeei^ e^i^fier upt^ti the •rauad, 'Oraeiani^. the atmws Aiied'Ifi'^reMln.^ tliV waits. irVithlo this forirtse ttands the ehureh/il smf^irbttlldihs of conii^erabk aoliqaity. The fiietiites ' s^sficfiided * bn m walU . ai^ aniwu^ the «arlte«t'. prediietiens jof* Oreeiati art i)ro:ught.iiite the Ransiaa emiiire, atiiFin^baMV t^o^^T ^if h Uie iiiliroduetioni^ Clirifitaaiiitir. Funr marme pillar^; of the Uorinlthi^effder^nifi^art t4ie reef of fhhrbnilmns; tL°V» aeoor^iBf^ 4a'ao ineei^|nf«Mi Upon one of tTtem, thechureh , wa^ e|^et«4itt Ihe jrear alter Adaai ^M6: i^hith Axi^xeri^ to .747 or aac cfw I a hulkiippjvthe refer e, 6r hiv^ antkjaitvJa ^/^^iataiv^af Chri^yanilyy.attd^proting^tlie extetft^ofita -s pillars of the same kiiidL;f4MoA viMwe tiiMm ■ Tli^ ipHegts an^ 11^ Jttib|i4^»PW^iMig*^^A«B»^'fe die««fVi«e 4t tfie e]bu^9(i^ ^d ^1 pf;i0i|Q4.Ytrikii hlid«iqt|rti0d ik »IIM«. Tfffe f^iliftV^)!; it# <^f|i«tlio|| im& iiievtitiMe^'^^ere tt lay, amff, jperliap%fiyhUei^« ill wiiUeS) it etk^ . .Jjmfmiiffif. i|»a4» Ja> **^ »fe« tiwwil «f tlie Oimea dtrring tHc; v^rfom i«viilatilii«^««Air«q«ieiitP«iNMIge«f1fihat^lta'nts ^i^l^ipill^ Ji«j,#iiiMlil^kafte^ ttaiiiltlfated allTiost i.;.-:i^_::: ■■■:'■■:.:"::: i^e^ o| li4^ri^rii , Mflke RwriMM^ I "dam Bilt men1iKk)i .Ib^liigh laHthflorUy .M wkMl tlM'tniil» ^f tli<Hr Kati^nal .id^ar^t^,w^r^4eliViantd io ne^ at. Uie tiMe i am ^ndaetii% 'tJbt^ p4ri<of.;i||j,,tj0iii^ifil« Jtis^iiffii^iittosay, one, wiro tiefl^t.KDiew t^eii%^ri»edidi«l.tlierer'««»iio eliaraeteHsfiek ef i^R.u$«jsMini^sf$iitrtlcttg»tk«ti H»at«f wantoaiy deistrD}- ing;]Hr)mteyeriapii2«dky»i^i9bteBec^iii!l4eiM. liilC«rte1iy, after IeveUiDg,V)k^liefaMrUi£ve .himdiiied htMiieir, iMj left abftujt 4hir|,y pour sbopiiyMi lha»iiiid»t of Ihe rttioi, w&ose Q^jiejfs it ij.^ivda%,pilii6tiae.t«4cfratid. • Fahe i!r^a|i Jbe^r |;wUi^k^ga9»iiv»ai4fM wellattaFtlietr pHr«tetreath!f ^tl^fejr |8sais4 (^ijd^air^f impiUit»6i«di «ier«kaiit9 1« fieitte m (he iQWpi,biU,ii9;aiMN9(»e kwi tkeg^/delatiiM pedpte ^ted ^tbei;^ wimtheir fanilifiay tkan tkejMiidtoii^ pdwd^dewp tBe .I^^MSf^s ab9ti|ft)^kW»l'WNtar«ttke vamettnleiither ifi- i^iimidatuig.aij^ores^io eonpm^hciti to hili^er dmiet, tfiati j^^J^e vea of t|^ AMs#iftl»4licaMtiwBt kave patd/to #tioiii no /^j:jpim)$ioi|g/t|^dbeemafie#tdi^. TI1119 niMrlfed and plah- *derea9 jtlie pppir^8^l^r«&|» dem&nded pcnaiMieB to leaTe .' ibe\pe|^b|yi!r; ^biek:Wii» pofitivjely refiMed^ It may 1|a ^skod-why tou'little b»a, b^ kkkeitoflMidfr plikliek ooneer- ' mn^ Aft xfi^X ebaraeti^r of 4lita very.pnyfligate people fio '.VL'Dicb ik^ an^wef is, tbattkorats no aowitvy wkere tudi ;. pjPkioi b%ve'b<^ QQifdiifed tii fNT^resttt. ^IlMireiii notkiiig \ Jn whieb tbe iate€«tli«ria«r employed ao aaweM artlie^, £1 In kie^ing seereHhe tjnie biat^rjr of iitr own p^oplej a«4 "%h^ wm}^^iii^jd ^mj^n.. l%tf Jn Vrfiiit h mil hm wmtapwiiBeg^wHh VtdliatlM^ iitalLto>4iiilrMlitM4o ker nimfttersy in the gl&nii^ fakieb«Kids pijil»lt8iied by her lured wri((Mrst Imt parliMlaiiy. i« Uw .w<irk; »iie^~ will^ ber •l^tft, {Kit K^ber, iB;«ii»wer to tke writiiig»j^f th« «bbe 4e i& Cha]»pe. A |iarly of her samns were eiu^ftf^d ^ «e- «omfNbny ber in a Toyttf^idAWii Ihe Velf^; as ihty <«ai|ed idoiig, »ke caiMued that irork to 4>e read, «rery aae preeent bein^ called apaa to eoptrtbiite sav^tbingi^ eilhet of smart criticism^ or eoatradietoi^ remark; aad Iks Rote^eoeoji^t- ed, beingp afterwaffd« |^ toother bjr the eelebratod Miishia J^uakin^ eoa^tkuted the work wbteh bear« the title ^^^ The Jlntid0i;eJ* 1 reeeiTedthis taforiBalioa fnooKmeof tb^i>er- laas who was praieat-with her u^oathat oofoeiaaraiidf who ako added ht«r share ta the andertakia^* Nofhia^ can; be mare deeeltltil than the grtara whieh plajed about tfaa eoart e^ Petersbarf^ ia the time of lratheetaa«\ tHo«pou»frf|feBe af improFeoKat saoaied to be Ahe sahjeoi of 4«ily i9>»vac«a- lioa^aad were indi^slrioasly Dtropagfated ia fereigaaauatrles, aat aae of wbiek was earried iata^Seet^ Theyeaasied c^y a|ion paper, Ilka thetfoopt whieh Raftsia ofte^ affeeta to ^M^ier apon her .f raattere ; or like, the aaoi^rooe f^oFem- . BieBtft aod i^rtsoae, wha^e aanes; serve to- oeeapy the vaid epaees apoa the maps of ;h»- deiolate lerriitories. ^ Gould there, he fooad a aat^ve of Raesiaucwtth a.paaejan for literature, who, to a knowledge of the Tartar lan^af^e, added also that of the oiodern Greek (and many of the Bas- . eiaas §peak both these lan&uagea with fiueney) the Griiaea would not remain long in toe obsearity whiehaipceaoniin- volvea it» aneieat top^raphy* Utifortaaately all iteiee whom Catherine employedrto travel throiiffb her^domjaions for purposes of .seieaee, were either ioTeiy eeeatiied ia natural history, or employed, more poUtieaUy« ia pfepjsrltig splendid statistleal aeaoaats of the most wretoh^ provin- ces.* Alinost all of them were destitnte. of any .eia^fti^l infor mat ioa. . Pallas's &r^ and favourite study Mas jfioaJiag}r ; • Professor Pallas was among the number of those who became a ^c- Htt' t» the oonsequetices of their own too fiivouraWe reffrfesaitatkHis. -Hiv- ing p«Ui«hed hM « Takieuu ife la Xburt«fe»" la-iobefi -at Petersbm^li w ,1796, in which h^ deaeribes the Crimea as a teriYsptrial pM^iae (oc to i|se his own words in the dedication to Zoubof, as " cette belle Tauride-^cft- te province 9i hettreiiienleitt dtap^^^epeuP toutei kt cUlPurer oid nitmqiietU tneore t^ ^ emfii^ <k MiuHi**')4ike einpifiM mnt 4im4»»e8U<; ^hmttnuptm .ma. estate which she.gare hiip,.and whei'e. wie Cound hm^ ms h^. hinMcdM*^ fesseil, in a pestilenUa! air, die dupe of ttic sacnfioe hq ^4 mKde to fir?^-. »0^ ha sovereign. -^ . , * "^ i ', •• * ,; ■' . i »«, ';' ,. 'J •'■ tiyfi'S* i .« • ■ 'J,U> Jf.,u i? •* vn^m^mm ■•■■iiiiuij «• sa-vya. .iM^V* 'WlMn Ik tmmbAib rt»ide in tbe -Crinieft^ 'lie *«>«• ,l«>oiftpai^aBfiediiiT«ar%amllMiweakiii bedltk, todelil- fcste'^t^ humm to «thfir {nmtiiff, or Jie Might frame •oeleijbji- 4e<l iMrgcly «a tmr •Isdc of islbraHbtHMi. UkhenCe^' Ibivt *<wlwBhlHi64coB.p«bltfliK(l «oaeefRiii^ ik% a/dmgmfkj,tmd . »witiif«Mes^ol* tlie DriiBea, ha* been -wrttian iy pe^aim inh# «Hrvei» «rl^lid* Ihtf eamtcy. Th«8c who liara vinitad k were •tmfeftanataly adllMr gaagmiihem aar aaitMtimriaa. . -^il^lcftKertehy,Md praeeeded tawMNlft Gaffieu Mu» therffeond iiatatMi we paaacd aaather aneieat baaaAiry or f^ffMtw^' like (iMt w-hteb haa bees daw ribed before, an whiah <«ia^ beiKaaaftted the traaaa af tarrata thaft^tveae pbeedakrog '^ii4a«eaimd barriar of the Batpariaw. la all thia mate -are»fa«tid so other dwelliiigt than Tartar hute^with eaith >#aar9, 4f^' eatnuMa'to whiah- was aoiaw. that we could •aaareety gain admittanee^ ^wilhaat araafiiig.a{iaB aAl-foanr. 'The^aat^areiB wmwa n^rialedihaa inaivf elhar |HM^ta *^' the em^TC ) but if wehiredtheht met wi the peaeaato» »w<f Ibaad Aeai.to> be^trai^ fteetv and beaatifui, aa UraMan '^eaarteFs^ ^fiiemiaiiteDa^bttiidthatrnaafe in ihe little ahaai- ^bera'af^fhe l^artara^Mid assieMnurased to do aa aiiavar -theCrin^a^ atMafO'thaibeatfaailliaaf baoaitaeitbey fpravent • ifllaafratnhain^-'tifabblasame. Th»'.vdadi9, whiaa'in^drjr f^M^ieF wre aioeUentv Biiw heaaiiia, in. ednfta^aence a# nSm, tailmailt Umpaaiible for oar laarriai^t; the torf apan 4he ' ialqfi>pe« pealing ioff in la^iavflakes^ aiid'«dharfng ta the ^^«i(he0ls with a«ah iveii^t, that they ware aflten entirely *<<lAre«d, and -we eaahl not proceed *witha«t eleadns tbem. «i «fWe paased several mtaedttioafuet : lind a few TniAaah ^miid 'Fai^r- towba appeared oaaaaionally near Abe road. "^rtfty^^Mdiaiiagola^edb^iSinallyttaae pUiar^ wiih^atur* •haii'siMiipiured on the top; a.nd somatimes they eontaiQcd • ^pwBk iheinahaiftsiatenptianBia the Tuiiwh or Tartarian laii^age. Wa>itaw heoan ta patfeieve tha-trathof these anr- ^fri^iflQ relations which we had often beard and read oon- ^eairniagtlh^.laeusttian^auatries inff^stcd with that iii&ecf. «<The a^^ipea^^i^ere a»tijrely.eovered by tlieirhocii^a , and their '^namfoers faffing reseftihltfd tla^c^ of snow^ carried obtiqnelgr '^y (lie wind) And ^preaiiii^g a l.hick mist over the suii. J^ly- ^raada. fell- oaier thateaaNayf ;the haraes^ and iha driven^ ^'TWe atttries of jheae ttmaiaTs, :.t^d- as by the' Tartars, were M£iore niarvelious than any yve had before heard* They $<|id that instaaees had oeeurred ^ persona beiog suffbaats4.)>X mm ei.A%Kmh •nAVBii8«m*YAmTAmy. Ib^keraMed, in whieli tlniir immlittffs lief|ftii H ^imnlili* Whevlhej iral make tlteir^ftpfeafanae, a tkieic, dark^oady k mtm ^ry kif^ in tfab «ar$ whiek, aavit? >^aate% ajbaettves tke «UB* I kad alwaji <appasod thteatorieaof tkeloeaM to exaggerate tkeir real appeamiice ; but fonnid (beir •tramieso aatDttiskin^tii all tke .stopjMt over ^biek we jpaaitfed in tkii part of our journejr) tkat tke VfM^ iaee .-of natiiTie niigl»tka.iroi.bee«deoBrUMfl ns eoneeafed i^ aUfiiig re\h Tb^ were of two kinds ; >tbe Gr^ut T^urUuricm^ and tke GryUus^ migfmterious^ oreommoii migratory loeiiat, Tke firtiis almost twiee. tke ai»e of tke 8eoQ«d)..atm, Biaeo itpreeedes tke o^ker, bean tlu9 name of tbsi^foraU.or tifeih jongvr. TlM»ffii|(ratorj loeiHit ka9#ed U^oiid ito ictfoffionr wi]^ kaTe & liytly red ealour,« wbiek^vea a bFi^ty^Aerjr appearanee to tbeAoimal, wb^n finAterai^ in the sno^t imsw* Tke stfeagtk 'Of linbs po^e«»ed 1w <it 19 amasing^' wIkhi pcesteddowii by.tbe bandHpiQ»4^tabie,ii bas.al]|)0«t power tomMO the^fis^ra $ battkis ioree resides.whoUy^n tb# le^^ fiv if one of these be broken off, .wbiekbappena.t^ tke sligktest aeoident, tke powor of aettoa^eease^.- Tboi^ is yet a tktrd iiairiety of locust, QryUmviridiBaimus^ of Linneas, ftund near tke Dom and tke KubibB, yfhiA is en* ttrelyof agroen eoloor* This last I kave siaae oeen apoa tbe banka.uf tlie Cam^ in my own oonotr^, aad Mi fos tke momeat intimidatedt lest suek a presage 8lM>Dld be the Mermld of the direadtiii. seoarge which the loeast bearo wherever it abounds** Qa wpa^ever spot these animals fall, the w kole. vegetable, pro^uee disappears. JVof^intf <hseapes Ihem from the leaves of the. for^t to tjbe h^rbs of the pUin* Fields, vineyards? gardens, pasture, ^yery. t)iing is hud waste $ and sometimes the -only appearance left upoioi • In the year 593, many coimtries were afHicted bjr fomrnfe* iff cbnrfc^ f^iifeiieid of the ravages eormmined hf loeasti< In ^7, Sji-iaf md M«)Dp*> tamia were overran bv them. In 85'2, the^^ migrated from the ewtem cAiuttrtes, and, fifter devastati^ig wliolc regions in tbe we'st, were diivefi by winds into the Belgick ocean. In 1271, all the com near MiHm was dc- strored by them ; nnd in the tear 1609 ; sH the* fields of Limfaardy we^ laid Vaate. In 1541, the? peo«trat«d to Poland and WaUaehia; ib 16^4 ■ome «warDi8 settled in Wales, and in 174^ fell in several parts of England; particularly in the ncighboui-hood of London. [Shaw's Zoology, toI. Vi. fart i. trp. 136, t^.] The best method 6f destroying thctt would l»e.ft f«eoii»m«Bd them ^ »n -aiti^k: of. Ibod^ In the^ Crimea they fure xiS$ts[Ljt^ ^ by tbe inhabttanta. Somf:. French emimtiRts, who had been direetedbi this manner, assured me, tnat wlicn fried, tliey were te'ry f>alatsd)Ie anil ▼ery wholesome. The Arabs, according to Hasself^nist, eat them |X)a^|te4 and are g^ad to get them. ' '• --* • % «fte»THB. BeiV9ftHf TO. CAPJFA. itt fetiiidhii*i»iil.^t » dfag|tt«t%^ tv^erfiebi tmrnMif theili Mr- Ifftfymg'ImdKtes^ tb«'«ti^ieii'0^«^vin«h i« sdffieient t^ breeq A ]lMtilese«^ Tk^re oaa be mh aeeesfiity far anjr fiirilierti«^ eiHi«('«i'a» animal to- often. dMorifaed^ 'We QoUeeied almofyt Ail tlieiiiieol»of Hie-Urihiea^ amoiigf them are some.ol*(ke Itteoftkhid witlvoiit witti^4 and ftthers ditiTertn^ iHsly iti trifOiiitt^ distinetiwii iivare interesting !• the «ntorm>l^viel dKiB^e ^eaeral roader. Bat tliem.are insects which iji^si* the peaiiisiila, aad>wht«lk merit moflre particular notice eii aee^nat ef the daniai^erto whteb tiie^r: may eipose an unsus* peetin^^trar'eUen These are oi'lhreektode ; the two first «f wJiJoh fi^ofn tbeir external appearaaee^ seam iiotli to be spt- deM| Imi aeeordiog to Aaisratistsy only QUa bebaes to Iba gtfiae'imineaf aamiy,tfae lartfe, blaek tarvntala, knownna UNMiy parts of the aouth of Italy^ and long; fknioas tliei« o» aiM^iiiat ^ giving its nimte'to a daoee^ said to prove a re^ si»dy ^r its^le^ ^Hbieh might otherwise.pro?e lataK TJiLi aatiaii] attaiara fearftil size ia tbe Crimea. I eaaght tne af them %ritb apair of toi^s; when extended in a Hataral postnre^ npofii a table, it embraced by itt claws a elream* i^tiee whoto diameter e^aaUed nearly three inches* ' The s^her^ ahhoogh smaller, i» much more formidable. Pro^ fei9fio# Pkliat named it phahin^m afarwtndes. It is of a. yellowish cof^nr, lookine like a large spider, whose legs are covered with hair. In f^ont it haa a pair of elaspera, whieh bear some resemblance to a l^bgter's claws. Bollaa assured me, that its bite had proved fWtal, in inetances to Which he'htid himself born testimony. Fortunately it- i« Wry rare. I preserved one for some timfe in spirits ; but the i^^iraen was destroyed in its passage home. The third kind of insect, teiTible on acemint of its bite, is the cantt- ]^ede, dr seoitipendra- mor^itans: This pernieioua animal ia ^reryeommoa in drynttmb^r, beneath stones, a^d in fissures «f the earth, in warm situations. Seorpiona also ai*e found in the mountains. Strabo. describes all the ebuniry bptween Theodosia (€affaj and PaVtieapceum [Kertehy] as rich in corn and uU of inhabitants.* In the villages we found parties of tha Xzigankie^5 or gypsies, encamped as we see tbem in Eng- land, but having tiieir te^nts stationed between the wagons lA which they hfiove about \he eoitntry. Poultry, eats, dam 4»d li«iirs^^, >^ere: feeding all arQttnd them, seeming lilttt '' '•'Slrab;to:mp;4's, ea{t:OiQn.l«(«r, ' : niemberi of Chersuie funiiy. -Tfie fflpfti0B>ftfe>iamiif:fe>' eonraged by the Tartarft, who allow mm Id eneamiR » lie midst of their villages, where tliey. esereiM tha nmemh fiinetions of smiths^ nmsifiiaiifH and aslr^kgiirs. .Mattj^of' tliem are weal thy j possessioj^ fine ]i«rst«attd Jplettly mi- •ther cattle $ but their way of life, whethor ihey &e«ri4ji.ot< poor, is always the same. One of the ^mj^^m oi^ «.. party to whom we paid a Tisit^ was ooeimied by an enm>mcMic drum', which they aeeompany witka pip&.whe« pehEamttBg liefore the village daneer». The sound of this dt mii Hiiaa< . the loudest I ever heard ; and, though tiaimidaiing,-wa«> nevertheless, masioaL Strabo montioiui the draoi as mi- instnimeut comman to the ancient cimkrif %pd natieet. ili itttimidatiQg sofiad.* In their teilts the men sat nfiark naked among the womam They rose, hawever, a» 'we< entered^and cast a sheep's hide oi«r their bodies. Tha filth and steueh of this people were abominayaj aadalmaat all of them had the itch to i^ach a degree, that Iheir limfaa were covered with blotches and scabs*- The property of Tartar geatlemen eaasists abiefiy ineal* ]tle. ThbusatKU are seen kk the steppes^ oSMm tfte^opeflf. of a single man, and among these we noticed ifkany hundred . eamels. The Tanridan camel i^ represented in FaNas'as Travels, from a drawing by Geister of Leipsick. It baa ». double huoip upon its back. The author saya, the eamel grows larger in the Crimea than among the CalmnckTar^ tars ; a circumstance of no moment, bat direetfy ootflrar dieted by the Notes in my Journal ; tlie eameJs in the terri- tory of the Don Cossacks, and near thevampsof tJle.Qa^' mueks, appeared to me to be much larger than those ^f tile Crimea. They are used by the Tartars in drawine oorerad wagons with four wheels, called . Afa^/sAari, in'irniah tbey- convej their, families. The price of a full ^sraara famel,' in the Crimea^ seldom exceeds a sum eqaivalent U i^olva pounds of our money, Tartar gentlen^n ^o armed oft Lorsebaek, and rije remarkably well. T&ir religi.on, being Mohammedan, consists^in nearlv the same eetemonies observed among the Turks, At midday the priest, of every village,afler washing his head, feet, and hand«, jp.raeteds with^his beads slowly to the mosque. whesTO. k*y«i"f . P«r-' formed his devotions, he ascends to the ton of the rotnaret, singing out, as land as he can bawl, In ti drawlhtg tone^ Ite' • fitratnib. V«, pp. 425, 420. edit: Ottn, IW/ .' .> ^ • • " ^ welllnf«Ml4iinMtioii^ ^'Qod is €Nf^ atvd Mkbomei » hk iVrv^oH^' -'Fte d^m of the 'i^trtarg, pitrttcalarij amoi^^l^e tliglier nmlDiof the men, is plain atidsiihple. It pre1ier</«»^he oH«^tallbnii, but mtlitiat that eontrast and' varkiT^etAmt, whi^h^ires saell splendour to the haUts ef Torfo, B^e^ «rt<i TelMTiKiiiiorski Cofirsaekis. A Tartar prince i» generally toen in a habit of light, drab elath', wiilk a e«9 of gmf trool, anfd ye^W ot* dnlb-cobnted boots. Per- haptthe eostiime* was more >nagiitl}eent nnder the goi^ern- men^^f tMrkhanr; it might ^ injtiditiioos) -and perhaps dan^^mi^ TioW to nralte a parade of faced elothes and ex- peniii^'^ni^ixoideif)'^ sinee Ihe smallest evil, to which thejf^ TrMlilib#inp«MllB tlieir JMtrwies, i»that of plunder Apom tll« RuetferiatMi ■"' • Ih> tlM ) Iftsr ^a^ fJNMii'Reftdij In CliSk, we passei the t]lir4f'lbftt i#'t»^say, theonter vaJfom orboundiiry of the RespeiPlaffM^ wbiiAr s^rtted their pefiininilaf from the ootm- try of ^ Tanri. Its reriHiins, a^ well as those of the to wen- placed, thereon, were very visible. This wall extends from the s^a of AtBof, he^ttning^eastward of a place now called Arabat, to the mountains Whihd Caflfa. It is mentioned by Strabo, who states fVomHypiiorates9iKit it was eonstrueted by A^ander, three hondred and sixty stadia io length, hav- ing at every staifintn a turret.* This description agrees with its ptfeietil aplpearateee; the distance from the sea ^t A»dl is lioteegreat, bat the ebftque dtrectioit of th^ waU makes its JeBgf h equal that MMeb Btrtbh has giveo-t Coostaiilltie Porohyi^ogenetes has aflhrded a more exalieit ae^sount of tlie biottiimies of Ihe Boipefians^ Aceoroing te that am- thor, «he Sammeittwr, m posses^ien of the Bosporito terri- toi7t ^ve w#r to tte Chfersonites, veqiectiog tibe limits of tlienr^m^ii^. ' The Chersojiitee were vietoHoasm a battle fMi^ht aear Ciiih y and by the treaty of jpeaee^ mafe oai the spot^ ir wa« detet^mined tmit the lifni^ iff the Besporian em- pire shbiild ti^ exteiid beyond CiiSa. After%Yards» the Bar- matiass; 1lnde^ vnether feader^ protested against this boondaryv and ^ivfn^ battle to the Chersonites, wiere a^n defeated. Phfiarhactts, ViAg of the Chersoaites^ then oon- traete^ th« "Besptorlkn Uinits stilt more, aad placed their hoambtry at'Cyhemiens, le%Tis^ them only forty utiles of t Alloiving eight Btft4ialo the EogU^.isQe^jisIeBgthvQidde^uia territory;* ^vni Umm b^iudariei,'' ohcennM ll«e w4lii»f t ^ remaiB ia tbis day." Er^m Ihat period tli« Botpor«t WM lost to the Sftrnuitians. Phamaons retoinod i»oi«e of tbsm'to eultivatethelAiid, and seot criliorft toribeir #iva QOttntrj; the lftiler9fortbkkiiidBeM9 ii}flortlft«dia.piUar4o blm, which, perbape, still remftiilB ai|io9|f4b^4iiU^iti6s of Kertehy. . - -. . • M^e now arrived upon the bo4tittf«ilhfty«f OaS«i|>«flip- posed to have been Theedoua. Tlie town «{ipe«red.<r(Kror« lagthesotttheniAideof U,iind mmg like a H«»^t|i«a^ with iU nuiner(Hi& naQsques^attd minai^etfli over all tiie^Jjitlk whleh enejose that piot of tlie^ay» . Many <ve«Kiia woot «t anehoif near theD}aee9.aad> notmthltoiidilistibo^otM^tioo of buildings by the Rusaiana, it atiU wore aiiia^pee^^joois^ importMiee. In fbrmor liaios H oht^nod aad mei^od.tbo appellation of the Lesser ConstanUoople.^ : eoatainiop* tlMty tix thousand houses within its- walla; .and, iikebidiiig -.the iubarbs^ not lota than forty font lli^iiaaiid. . i CHAPTER XIX. . FROM GAFPA TO THE CAPITAL OF THS GiUa«A. . Cttgh in its present stof e-^Bttrlbr^us timdati &fihe RusHdm -^Inscriptions — DistribtOion of the (Rjwm-J-Hqwirfiwi^ fi'om €ktffaA-8tara Crini'^SUtn^ Baths-i^FUm ijf t^ Empress — *^cient Vuttum — RematkaMe' Mtmntain^*^ Karasnbazt&i-^kmetchH — Professor mUts-^UHtvhhli' s&me sUuaHon of the Toum^^Mns Jo^nto, «^ Jwbda^ OtsiTvaiitms of Bachart and others upon that MinuU^^ * Bakteheserm^-^Jfbvel appenranee tfthe City-^lBbumnins > -^Bestrueiion taused oy the Russian TrodpS'-^Cktiees wMth led to the Deposition ahd Bedth oflM tukr JCMr— Consequences of the captuH of the Criinea^^Paldce ef fhe Khdns — Preparations made for ihe reception of the Ud$ Empress-^eragHo — Bestription of the Chamem—^Visit * to the Fortress of BschmifoutkaU-^-^Mtcdote of an fin.?-- Ush Servarit—^lhcfraordinary Ring — Singular Eatawt' ^tiofi--i^1ewi^ Cemetery-'^ctount dfihe'Secf'of EM^ FIFTY families are at^ireseBt the whoU popttlation of the once niagnigeent town of Caffa ; and in some in- * The latter is the same which the reader will find noticed ia tV« fin( FMI of pttr journey from Kertehy. T^^TftM '6%9tT4im i^wmSM tmt>C&A« ttiltieei it 410^6" humnt bibiliid to eonUifi mdre ik HBEmlly. ' Tfte ntehmelioif ^via§tati«n eommitted b; Rusiiams^ 'Wblie it dtmm^ tears doM^n tkt eh^eks »> >rkrta[rf^ And exturts many asi^h fpom the Anatolian l^i trim rfesDrt to Caflfa for eommoreial purpoges, eannot UA\ to tttke 4{ie indigtiiatiott of everi^ enKehtened people. At Caffa, daring tlie time we remained, the soldiers were al- loNTod t<> oterthrow the heaotifiil mosques, or to convert tkeiiiiifto magattnes^ to pull -down the minarets, tear up the piAtli^ fbuntaius^ and to destroy all thepobtiek aonediietSy fbrtlie sa^ke vf a small quantity of lead, whioh tney were tke^by enairled td obtain, dueh is the tine nature of Rat* »tatl^pfoteetiou | snoli the sort of allianee which Rinsiattt tttdeatonrtofot^m'witherery liatioit^eakenoush to sub- uAt to thefv piower, or to become tlioir dupe. While these wirt'ks of d^sttttetion wtH ^ine^ on, the oflBeers wei^amu* mtvg ' thetAiitAtm rn behotdiog'^ the mtsehief. Tall and stately minarets, ^hose lelty spires tuldei^ sueh a graeeaud diepity to the town, were daily levelled with the ground ^ which, besides their eonnextovwitli religious establishments, for whose maintainanee the integrity of the Russian em- pire had been pledged, w'ere of do other value to their de- stroyers than to supply a few soldiers with bullets,* or theiroflleer^ with a dram. I wa»in a Turkish eoffee^-house in. Caffa» when the priaeipal minaret, one of tlie AueieBt and oharacteristiek monuments of the country, to which the Russians had been some days employed in fixing blodcs and ropes, came down with aueh violence that its fall shook evpffhoasielp.tb^ place. The Turks, seated on divans, wero^lf s^iokiugr an^, when that is the ease^ an earth4|uake wil^ seafody rou^e thi^oif nevertheless^ at this flagrant act of impiety and dishonour, thej^ rosievlu-eatbi^gout deep and bitter t;urses against the enemies of their prophet. Bveu the, Greeks who were present, testified their anger by simi- lar imprecations. One of them^ turning to me, and shrug- , ging hit shoulders, «aid, with a countenance of contempt i^ud indignation, :sx:;&«4/ Scythians! which I found after- war^ to be ^ coipmon term of reproach ; for^ though the Greeks profess the same religion as the Russians, they de- test th^ latter as cordially as do the,Turks, or Tartars.f Tlbe : ,* TI^,B}U«iao tr«iQp% are obI%$d to pf9vi4e thecueUe* vitb h»|j« - . t f The mild and amiable Pallaa, netvithajtaiKliDg the awe voder whieh k» vna kept bjr the Russian g^remfnent, eould notTpass la aHeiiee fbe de«U'«i«'' iittigt lameitekle part *f the injurt thiis *u«^aiiie« %M fceeii iotke aestruetioii of the conduits Mid publiei^ fonntMiH, vfhyti conrcyed together withthe purest water friutt dUiant mountahis, a soonse of he«Uhand cotnfbrt to the pci^le. They firfet carry off the 4aden pipes til order totnafce fiol- lets ; then they take down all the marble slabs .and lai^ stones for buildiBg niaterials, which they employ iti the construction of barracks ; lastly, they Wow «p the ^hramiels which coiwey water, because they say the^mtet^' posters cttoaotearn a livelihood vvhere there are public fatitotaws. Some of those foatitains were of great antiquity, tod beautifully decorated with marble reservftifs, as weW-^^ by hfts-reliefs and inscriptions. In aU Mohamn*eV!an eoatifries it b considered an act of piety lopreservfe aUd^to aikmf the puhlick aqueducts. Works of that nature once^appe^ in almost every street of C^tfa ; some Were pubHcfc waslktBg 'places; others poured out streams of water* as ctesy' as , crystal for allaying the thirst 4>f the inhabitants, krid for ablutions prior to going to the mosqires. IMict^vere nearfy -all demolished when we arrived. - ' ,..',i",/. The seulptured marbles of its aAcirent Ortrciari ifihiib?tante had not shared a better fate. AH'that evi^aMcAamme^iis had spared df has-reliefs, of hiscriptiphs, 'or artshitectjiral pillars, were broken by tlie Russians, »nd^ sold a* mateHa^^ to construct their miserable bairacks. We foifmd iftie itftti- ' tieal marbles, described hy Odarleo,* hrtfken and cxjjosed for sale in the ruins of the old' Gtentf^se ft^tTesk. rhese were of pecnliarinterestjbccaose thcyre/kded tothehaitoiy .0f tiie town.' It wtoin' v^tkiAM; we 4MsU»t^daai liewme p^Dhascrs; theittquttit waa iawiediaMy*^"*^*^.^^ . general officer, *' Strangers,'* he said, « ace not penrntted ' to take any thing oat«f the coantiy." Iha'^horti ttinc : Itpo of ^me l>Q%»t4fttl;hmJ4i«gS». It. i&.ipt(h;eBtiflg.to v4vf^K Jh^^tion with wh^ch he suDpresses bi9 indignation wlalQ he communicatea tu^iaci -«f Wh6iy 1 caused/' says he, ** the prospect of this t6w^, L^?*«J' ^T* ^fftwii from UieMhtFe tiext^e bay/thore vwe <wo tninfiRAtt, rtlitien totfc- . oBM^higU. awl iWnishwl with, wopeatine tatairwiies jka*««ri^.lAe top; . thQUgh botKstruciures have. sifwebeei\ deimkshei^ Trav. voJ.U. p. *o^ ^Had the ppofess'or vebtured two syllables farmer, if lie had mef eTy aa(le« free a^r^j ^oevtch wafteea lew wpuW. have veqturqd c,«.. j~ i'^XJ'^.^ "circumstance. • SaclicousiderHtionsmake aBiilonfeel,sen9ibl);^he Wesaags cff the ©on%atution under whicb he lives.— O siiWti mnd nortnt r • .Le4t«a^UristJtf«id*<Me»t;i%;tf»|»^ , Ta THE CAPITRAt OF THE ORIMBA. ^'If aothinc will remain in Caffa but the traeea of desolation, Avbich Us Russian eonqutirors may leave behind them. It has experienced such a variety of revolutions, and so many different masters, that even, in better tipies, when it was under the Mohammedan dynasty, few monuments remained of an earlier date than the establishment of the Genoese eolony in the fifteenth century. At the entrance of the city, near an edifice which was once a mint, are some ruins which may perhaps, have belonged to the ancient Theodosia. They aj^ared to be of remote date. For the rest it must be ob- ftcrved, there does not exist in the place any thing which might lead to a conjecture, that such a city ever existed. An iiiscription in the walls of the fortress proves that it was eompleted^o late as the year i.4t7^^ the very year of the capture of the city by the Turks, under Mohammed the second ; and the earliest date of any inscription we coald find, was not prior to the end of tiie fourteenth century, .We obtained one in the Armenian, language, the letters of which were beautifully sculptured in relief upon a slab of white marble. That inscription is now in the Vestibule of the University Library of Cambridge, and the translation nf it appears in the account published there of the Greefc Marbles.* It merely commemorates work done to dne of the ehnrehes of Caffa, in the year 1400. Another inscrip« tion in the wall of the fortress is in the Latin language; and is remarkable for an errour.in the word temporejy/hiA Oderico has also noticed. It is placed beneath three coats of arms, sculptured on the same stone as follows: TBNPOBE . M AGNIFICI . SOMIM . BATISTE . IVSTINIANI ; CON8VL1S . MCCCCLXXIin. Upon one of the columns of the principal mosque we found a Greek inscription to the memory of Helen, a nun, and a ^person of the name of Tagmau, who died, as it is expressed, ID the year after Adam 6327, in the month of May. The distribution of the buildings in Caffa may be Accu- rately ascertained. On the southern side stood the Genoese eitadel, the walls of which still remain, and the traces of its streets within the enclosure are visible. Besides there «.re nnmereus subterranean chambers and spacious maga- zines, of the most massive and gi^antick style of architec- iure. Several inscriptions remain m the avails, which, from • CUiite^ Gveefc MnUet. p. 8. K<i, Vin; Dd Hi9kMBleMM«kaai^bavelitlb«rlae8eapiedii^itr^ Tte vest of this, ewdofufe offers % promMouoUs beap of ruinft, 1MI7 betiettiBi^ «R0Fe/e«nfoaed. Tiwupposi^ 8i4«'of the eity. was tbe residefice of f!t» Tartar, and i\m pari kt »ow inliabUed. Centrall j sitiiatfld tietmeiii the two, and someivikat elevated «ti the liiUs abot^a them, stood tbat tmrtion of the cUj^ which was loiiahltedbY -the h.xwimsm%4 it k i^seene of ruins, like the quarter wbieh tlie deaocae posse«a«d* - If Theodosiaever stood i^cm the sfte of ih« present io\ytk of Caffi*, k 'iinist*hav« eovered tba ^piMHldsiiiei^ .tenanted 4iy the Armenian and Tartar esfa- hlishmcnts, 'and oeeiipied all the ahqre to the northeast* As far AS mf 9«<^ti ohseitfalioas <«an*y me, I have never jei %een «atia6ed a& to tbeiaetahat Theodo$iaand€afia.&tiiod iipoa the same ^pat. On rh«elei^ad tarritopy Am^ the Tartar city^ close 1o the w^Ms.of the old Armenian fortress, is a circular buiU« ing, very liice tfaoserniaed ed4fi«as upon the coast o*f Baia, »iear Naples^'vvhieh, thoiii|)|h generallj called temples, are more probablv remains of the hatha of the ancients. It is nowa drdfa $ but, in takiiig dowa part of Che staeco which loosely adhared to the vraiil, there appeared beneath, a beau- ^ifclaoireriag^feoloiiredvplaster, exactly resembliue tbat Vfhitli is fbuwi inPompeia, and in Hareulaneum. T& Ar« 4pei}laBa, M'ho had^probably «oayerted this building into a * Arnan cnlls Theodoftia the 'deserted ciiys and the same exnre6«w is reputed in the anonymcms PeriphfB; taken from the'-wiitings or Seymims Chitts, ManBAfiHS anil Ethel's. Vocnua f Antim.m Peiipf. Aoen. p. ^4.^] -says: *• T/iSodoxia Ciiffa vocari cvedltur^ ^d maXe; aistingtaait emm t;w Kd^ay Graci posteHores aThcodt^iti,^ Also another tnthor,'** CeU' set tnmen [1« Quieoi. Orbis dw-isttan. toca. HL ^1/1403] J^omkuu JSan- son TAeedefiamfidste oUm, qua nunc TrsBii appeUatur : Caffam vev fuisse Chavtm^ ubi Tuuro-ZSc^t/Mi^tm pon'i7is, et crevUse ex ■Thead^tut ■i^inis, a qud triginta milUarihua distat.^* Strabo [Hb. vii.] meuUoos Xeti'cr, as one ot* the three fortresses bnilt Ijy SciluniB and his S0n» an^nost ithe generals ot* Mithntdates. Oderico, [Lett. L«ij^t. p. 149] vlko'bis adduoed 8e«'ei!al authoiities tending to l^rove » disduction bctinreen the t^Mi ; two ftm- 4ioos, one Kiuidi^ed tliousand me«/imm of oonv; and, aecording to DeAuM- theneSf the imports from that place we^e greater than from sui the Mher countries put togetlier. After the taking of CaifFa by the Turks, Iq the reVgn of "IVlohamnied tbe Seroud, 1474, the Genoese colonies in the Blidk * msft aoeoeasiveW fcU-and «;ei% avuthilated. In 1^72, the commerce wi^i en- tirely lost* and the Thraciau Bosoms shut to foreign v^paels. Thlslnde did not revive until the victories gained byCHthcrine tlie second, {^/Imni- htmi, c, 23"] a century aftei'Tvartls,. opened it ci>ee niore. r9 THK CAPITAL 09 'fHB •AUOU* $$9 place of worsKip, foiirtil tt nec^fttarjr t^ eotwM W paic^ ornaments. In the center of the oW mvcraient of t^is hui!4inffa very curious bas-rifKef wiw oigeovearedy a fteir cTays only prior to ouf arrival. It was tealptured npon a kind of Cippus, in it very rude maimer, tbc sabjeot Iwins; ^ivided into two parts, aliovc and betow. In the tipper part appeared two crowned heads, and in tfte lower, a staireate was represented conducting to ihe monttii ofastoae sepvN chre. I endeavoured to prevail on the gaidey to follow tbe clue thus offered, and to search for the stairease so repra- .senfed below the spot in ivhich the stone it«elf iras found. This they refused to do. . liie remainirt s boilding^ of Caffk, are, ftp t}i« most part» within tbe Tartar city, rfiey consist of r«ry magnifieent an unfinished palace of the late Uanof th« Crtinea^ anda W^ stone edinee, before alluded to, whWh was once a mint. Xoanhot leiave my accoutit of this place without notieinsf a very prevalent erronr, into which Pallas biirtself ha» fatten is bis account of tbe Cfrimea.* It is, that a species of Ful- ler's earth, duj5 in sereral parts of the Crimea, as wett as ID Anatolia, and called £*^4ri/, has been so deaominutcd ' from Caffa : and that it si^iiSes €affh edrth. The renlety- fttolfii^ of the name may be seen at any time, by a reference to Meninskt's Oriental Dictionary; it is derived from two Turkish Word*, which imply /oam, or/rcrtft, of tbe earth. Our journey from Caffa, as before we reached it, wta confinnaUy over st^pms. We saw upon our left, that is to :§ay, towards the south, that rid^e of nijiMintains which cir- vers the coast of the Crimea; bin, unless a traveller fol- lows the sinnnsities of the soutliern shore of the peninsula, all the 1-est of tbe eonntry is as flat as i^atisbury Plain. The whole district from Yenikale to Akit'ar, except the situa- tion of tbe (own of Baktcheserai, presents a most insipid Iai)dscape, consisting of aflat common, eo\n?red with grass :and loeusts ; capable, it is true, of the hisjhest cultivation, ' butcfntirely nec^iected. The Tartars aiid the Greeks refuse to cnfltivate the land, because they fear to be plundered by Hussian.s; and the Russians are too indolent and too stnpiii ' Im think of tbe advantages of industry. • SeoTrav. Y«I.II. p.gr. SOO Clarke's travels in tartart. : After we htA fiamed a tedioBA dKstaDee^iKi^ef this kind of t^rritory^ the roadgradaallj drew nearer to the mountaiDs; and the appearance of ancient tumuli, increasing as we ad-* vapeed, proved (hat we were in the vicinity of some ancient* city. It was Star A Crim, the approach to which is by a bold valley^ or defile^ formed by a nioinitain deJached froin the southern ridge. A variety of beautiful shrubs and trees, sprout among the ruins* and the mountains are them^elvies/. covered with brushwood. Passing a brids^e, whose, massive • masonry resembled the fetyip of labour used by (heaneient Etruscans in the walls of Crotona, we were surrounded by , the remains of ihosques, baths, and a profusion ol* moulder- . ing edifices, some of which still retained marks of great • niaghi^cence. We entered a buihling still entire. It con- . sisted of one large area, covered by a beautiful dome, sur- rounded by eight smaller chambers ; and its w^alls w ere of ancient stucco coloured ivf distemper.' Thus it bSfired exactly the style ttf architecture seen in the temples of. Venus and Diana at Baia, in Italy 5 and l.entertain uo doubt but that those buildings were origiria.ny pub|ick« b^ths belonging to that fashionable watering place of the ancient Romans. The pipes and steam channels werq visible when I was in Italy some years ago 5 and particu- larly, in the bath' called the Temple of Venus, every ap- pelirance corresponded with the publiek baths. of the east- ern empire. At the conquest of Copstantinople* by the ! Turks, its couqacrers preserved the sumptuous baths which tliey found in the city, a,nd which to this day offer a model of. tKe very edifiees to w^hich I allude. The cerembnies^ ^e uses, and abuses of the bath, were so generally adopted^ and prevailed with so little alteration among the ancient hea- thens, that there is reasou to believe they were praetieedy . with nardly any variety, fcy' the inhabitants of Italy, of Greece, and the more 6riental nations. The sculpture and painting, visible in those edifices, were frequently employed iit licentious and detestable representations, such as were . eoQsistent with the orgies by which publiek bagnio^ were degraded ; and those who are at a loss to reconcile the pic- tured abominations of Baia with the solemnities of a tem- ple, may, perhaps, more easily account fer their appearanee as ornaments of a Pagan bath. In the midst of these very pictnresque ruins, sheltered by the mountains, and shaded by beautiful trees, stands one of IhMe villsvs wbie^ wer^ ereeted tor the impress Cittii«nBe wlieii site raited ike Crimea., At every plaee ia y^hUfa Ae^ halted for repose, or wa9 expected to pass a nir&t, ffhe foond . ft palace prepared for her reception. Many oltbem are itili kept up, and others, like this at StaraCrim, iMiffered to fall into decay. They eenerally consisted af a hed^rooni for the empress, with a bath adjoiDioj^, a ball-room, aiimallehapelr and a few other apartments for ber guards and attendants* ]^)^othfng^ at present interrupts the meianelioly solitude of her villa at Stara Crlm. Some of tl«e chambers were filled by heaps of the eoramon liouoriee root,! collected ^f the use of the mifitar^ hospitals, rrora the neta;bbottring wood« where it grow^ wild, and attains great perfection. On the moun- tains to tlte south of this place, in one of these wild andse- eluded situaljens, where zeabns devotees delight lo dwell,^ is an Armenian monastery, eoneemiag wliieh we oonld ob* t4in no othe;r information, than that it was worth seekiSQit- •eeauBt of the lurronndinjg; eceoery. As wj left Stara Crim to proceed on our jonroey towards Kw^abazar, we passed another Tallum still very perfect f and, from tlie distance to which it eitcnds, it must ha¥» been once a boundary of great importance. It probablt wa» pne of those which separated the Taitro-Si^ihiana from the eolonies estabhsljed in tlie Crimea. Heace, erossint; eonti- »«ed steppes, and always over a flat country, with the view of the mouiitains towards the south, we came to Karasitba* mr.* Before we reached this pUce, a very remarkable mountain appeared on our right hand, fiat at the top, and surrounded by precipices so perpendicular, and witfi such even surfaces, that it seemed like a work of art intended Si V^'J?f "^^^^li' /''*'/""'*• ^° .^^ '*"*«»^ «^*^ mountain «l.il^1r ^^ their conneilo during the last rebellion ^^Tu^T^^''^'\ ^^*'* «traoi^4inary plaee being consi. dered hn them a« ike appointed rendezvous in ev^ry cri-. ms.f It was, indeed, a sitoatioa well suited for sueb a weehag. and a most subljaie pjtture might have been af-^ . forded far the pejicil of a Sal vator or a Mortimer, whei> . the rebel chiefs, mounted , on their fleet coarsprs, t J I^ntfe^"*- ''^^?5? ^"^ '^'^^ »^^ tooo«stH:ute tta«y of' ih^ ImT 'J^^ ' ''^"'^u? "Othing more than the JBlack Water Market, •^ ^7^^ * "r*"' ^*»'*^ '* 6»B€f(rir«ni Su,ov Black Water bdnt jo»e<4tp.^o«ir,vth.»cominba word for Market. ' ^ Od^ and atteniledlij their ekosen liiMid^ intbeftHtigeJrcM^ #^ the coufttrj, held eommunieatl^ii tberev i :,.... Karasnoazar has not suffered so macdli a§ olhet 4<Mrir «f the Crimea sinee its conquest hy tlie RusBU^iMt y«t ili^ahi^ hited many ruins, sad memorials of their dMninioily .wkieli- iftth a long street of shops, are, periiap«, all that « tctnnel- )er would notice. The Tartar cemeteries have been devest- ed of their tombstones, and these h^e been liroke* *or hevht so as to constitute materials for buiUing;. aUboag^ tW dounlrj affords most excellent limestone, vfUek might be- nmoved from the quarries \vith almost a«i Uttle troi£l6 as the destruction of tlie gravestones occasions to tlie Russians. • Many of the houses in the place have been ei«eted wttk- bricks iv.bich have never been burned, but. merely formed m^ a mould, and afterwards hardened b^eiposureto tfaesaii and air. Intbi/s way the ancient Greeians sometimes fabric* cated vessels of earthenware, when they wished to {iKsont^ aSeriugs of the purest elay in the tem^plesef their gads**, AH the eommoaities of the Crimea are said to be pureW^ sied at cheaper rate iji l^arasubaza^ thaB any other market- ot the jpeninsula^ The principal shops are employed ii^ tlier sale oHeatber, partijcularly of the Moroeeo kind, whiek they prepare themselves, pottery, hardware, soap, eUndlea^' fruit, and vegetables. The number of inhabitants amoiittta to about 3700, .male and female.; a pomilatioii whidk in- cludes a yery mixed* raee of Tartars, Rassians, Greeks,. Jews^ Italians, aud Arinepians^ -' » • From KajrasubaiMir we eame to AKM£TP4iBjr,| the reei<« denee of (he goverm^ur general of the Cjriniea. «The Rua^ aians, since the peninsula ei|i|ie Into their haa4%. %»»% endeavoured to give it tke name of Bymphmpoli bui'l mver heard it eal|ed \^y anj^tl^er appelmtioii in the ee«tt*^ try, than that which it r?«eived from theTartars* .Thi» plape was once beautiful from the numerous trees'th|itfiik4 iV vall^v ihrougbwhtch^bei^ki^r flows; but the Russiaiia have If^d all waste. Scarcely a. bush now remaiAs. Iitwili hawever, be.l^pg eelebrated as the residence- of prolbs«ii Dallas, so well known to the :literary world for his long travels, and .i^^ready so elltea jneiitioaed. ip .tlits valmHe^ ^ Appendix loGifec^MarbleB, pi 71.. .t.KaUi»'8TrftTeb»TCil*n.p.25K . . • , , * - |»A Tartar wond, MgiiifyiDg « Tke White en^rtUf*" fdl fn» AKfWriLt M f lis •RtK«A. 3f)d IUb ftne wmiidiia^ b^nmrflAdentty entaUiili^d if be had pablished no other work than that whieh he began nnder' soeh'AMrtmvftble avspieev, the Ftoru Mm$icd ; 'and yet the bttrbarity'iif the^pei^So with wboiii he is eom^elfed to live'^ It: Bii^h, that ihrywili*not allow him to eomi^lete the un- dert4Bikliir^' The drawitieg were alifinished, and almost alt tli« text. ^To bis hospitable and hnmane attentions we were iodebled fsr eomfortsv equal,' if not soperiour, to those of ism oWn- country^ and Ibr every literair eommunication idHfih it was^tn his power to snpply. When we delivered' oor fetters of rMoinmendatiob to him, he received tis mor^ like a- parent than a stran^r to whose protection we'had been e^ttsi^ed* We refoseato intrnde by oeeupyin^ apart- HM^siQ hiflf Ivottse, I whieh had more the air 6f a palace than the'rosidckiee «tf'a private g;entleman; bnt when we were absent one day a pen an eirenrsion, he caused all. our thing;8 to brmoved, iMid) upon our r^nm we found a suite of rooms fA^^ved'l^ our reception, with every convenience fbrstudy* aM repose*' I may eonsidermyseif as indebted to hrm, even fttr-^iil^. ThefatigoeoftravelKn?, added totbeeffecf of bad dir and unwholesome food, rendered a quiirtaq fevet oH'babitual'lo we^ that had it not been for his care and skill; l!musl'faB;rc^ sunk under it. He prescribed' for me, adminis- t»t^^^ory medieiDe wi^ his own hands, carefully guarded; nvf diet, andf After nursing' me as his own son, at last re- aloM me^to health. When I recovered; he ransacked all his ooUection for drawings, charts, maps^ boolcs, antiqoities, ■liiierals, and whatever eiiie tnight forward the object of, oar thiviels | aeeotapani^d^ us upon the most wearisome ex* iimfonsjiii search not 'only of the invects and j>lanrs of the d^lmtry, bat also of every document which imsht illustrate either itg ancient or its^modem historv.* His decline of life \uA been embittered' by a variety or unmerited affliction, lA^hieh he ha»bom even* with i^oical philosophy. Splendid' av^hisresidenee appeared, tfa^ air of the place was so bad^ tibait tlie most HgiddbstSnenee frtim all sorts of atrimal food^' il«i ineaffieient topreo^ve tb^ inhabtiants from fevers. W^rieft him- determined tK^ pass* the reihnant 6f his days in •aMvaling vineyardo aliettg the roeks upon the south coas^ '* If eitlierhe or bis family ftbould ever eatttbeir eyes upoivthe8t]^gei^ they will here find tiieonly acknowledgement we have been able te render foraiMhiiiiexanipledbeneToleoiDie. • His fcudnMshaa^ indeed, been ill re* qnited ; the political differenees between England and Ra88ia> together with ether untowud eSvMi&stttloes^ hav«i put It OQt«r«tt power tofnUUi m^ the few Gomimssions with which he h«aowecd us when ire |«ieA oCth6 i^iMitla. Tket« iMMf WMovt to* iHibe^ ibaC by'tke deaths PmI he wi^ have be«n eaHed to k^itoim aliA 6BH^iMfeiii9 H btti MiMie<|iieiil tmvdkrs m Rii»*ift do net Ibr- nUh intelli^ttM* ia erMHable to tlie ftdiniiikt^atioir of tlMs new s4ytereigiK When the late ^n]^e«ft €itlhe«iae aent him tt reside ia the CrkMa^ with a grant of landa iri the penm-- sola, it wa» iateaded for the fee«titblt»l»iteiit of hi^ health, aadaa a reward^ Ibr his long semeer; aeither of whieh parposeci has baea aeeoiapilolMd. A si^tendtd estaMiehmeiit IB the midst of aatFlnlesome air, has beeir all the reiedn*-' I^ease ha has obtained. Thus H i«s that ive find him hi the sixtieth jear of a \H^ demoted to »eienee, opening hh hut . paUieatioa >itth an allasioa in *^$he dUqitiehtde and hard* ship9 xiBhuh opprts» him in hiiprefien$ rendenee^ and ewbit^ ter hi^declimn» day»^^i We used every endeavtrtir to pee- vailupoahiia to ^it the eotintry and aeeompaay vs t4» Eag^futd $ bat the adFaneed period of his Hfe» added to ihe eertaiiity ^ lasiiuf all his property iit Rasaia, preroitted his aeqaiesoease. The eerenonv of his dao^hfer^s marriaie "trim «<lerniaii oiffieer took pkiee dirriin^oiir residenee wfth him in the Crifnea, and was celebrated aecordhifj to (he ritei of the Greek Ckureh ; so that, as he was absoir^d fron alsiost every tie whieh oo^ht to have eonfined hiiti to ' the eouairy, there was some reason to hope he woul^ have listened to oar proposals ; by aeeeding to wliieh^ his life mi|^ht be prolonged^ and his pablieatioas eonrpieted. Our entreaties, however, were to no effect ; and, perhaps, helHre this meets the pnbliek eye^ oar friend and benefaotol^ Vill be no raore^ Owing t4> the interest of professor Palhts, mnth of the injury had been prevented whieh Akmetehet, m eomm<Ma with other towns of the Crimea would have sastaiitsd. Many ol the Tartar baildin«^ had bee» snftered to remain, aiid the piibliek f<M>Btai4is were strH uutmpali^d. Tlie nlace owed all Us iniportanee to the cireams^taBee of ito Being tlie residenee of the governonr §^epai of the Crimoa^ a veteran offiesc of the name of Mi^lson^ formerly welt known for the service he rendered to Russia, in the defeat ' oi the rebel Pugatchef. hx other respeete i^t is one of the wori^t situations in the Crimea, Its inhat» taints Are sithjeet to frequent fevers during the summer, and thi^ wAterjs aol 00 goud as in other nafU. of the paniiawla. Esmhkmiiivm^^ TO THB CAPITAL OP THE GHXMEA. lHk9 tables, which are so eommon in the southern villages, can <>Rlf 'be procured by^purohase from the Tartan. As atowB^ it im a .meaQ and insignifieant appearance ; the streets are narvQWy unpaved,. jHQd filthy, with a few shops maintained tntire^ by Greeks. Tb^ Balgir, whi^h, exeept ia rainy seasons, hurdly deserv.es th^ name of a rirer, flows in t^ Talley^.oQ one side j(^ which thte town standii. The nei^- bourhoQd abonpds with game, so that the officers of the garrison are enabled to amuse tliemselves with almost every kind <^f Enfopean ebaee. They hunt the.sta^, the fox, and the hare. . Ha/wkise is also a favourite pursait. The Tar- tars b^ng very skifful in ti^atnis^g birds for that purpose. A few days after we took up our residence, with professor Pallas^ some Tartars brought him a beautiful little animal, which has been called the jumping Hare, and born a va- . riety of names,^ but is, in fact^ the- same as the Afrieait Jerbofu We saw it afterwards in Bgypt ; and it is not , eommon either there or in the Crimea. It may be trailed - th$ K^n^aroo iu miniature $ as it hsa the saB&e furm, • although lit is smaller than a rabbit, and it assists itself, like the Kangaroo, with its tail iu leaping. That which Profts- sor Pallas received was a pregnant female, eontainins two ^ youns ones. Its colour was light gray, except the belly,* t which was almost white*. The foi'e-feet of this animal are attache^ tio its breast without any legs $ so that in all its motions it makes use only of it^ hind quarters, bounding and making , surprising le^ps whenever it is disturbed! Afterwards we caught oAe in the steppes, whiqh westuffed and brought to Etiffiaudv. Professor Pallas himself did not seem to tie aware that the Miis Jaculus^ which was the name : hejfave it,t is the animal mentioaed by Shaw in his account of oarbary ;| uor was it until we became enabled to make the •omparison ourselves in Africa,^ that we discovered the Jer- , boi^ to be the same kind of quadruped we had before known, in the Crimea. Bochart supposes this little animal to be the Sajfhan of the scriptures.^ . << The high hills are a t' Alkreion hfts been alr^iidy madeto the eonfasion introduoed in Zoo1<^, by 4ie4liffierent nimiea, and difoordaat aoeoants wbkhtraiwUerfthave given •f .thi» animal* See p. 163 of this voUune. t $ee Travek. VOL U. p. 4af7. i fihaVBTrayds, p; 177. quarto edit Ixihdon, 1757. J'See B6chart> Hiercaoicbn. Pars. IT. cap. 33. Lond. 1663. "Probatuv 5£^|»&«m atta«tca0 cooieohun, wd majca^ liM^ in Pj^festinay** Ut. tefOse for tile wilA eoats, and to are the stony radts for f ke Sajmannim^^^ whidi our translation renders <^ Conies^.'' Shaw is, however, ttiideeided upon this point ; but supposes the Jerboa* from the remarkable dtsproportiou of his fore wid binder less, may be taken- for one of the two-footed rats mentioned by iierodotns and other authors.* The whole merit of either of these obserTations, if there be any, is due, ftrst to the learned Boeliart, and afterwards to the labours of Haym, in the illustration of a medal of Cyrene, upon whieh this anitnal appears ; although Shaw, after the intro- diicttoo of those obserrations in his work, not only does not aeknowledge whence he derived the hilbrmation, but even aaserts that the animal deseribed by Haym was not the Jerboa. It seems pretty elear tibaf it was; although in the ongravi«|g puhlished by Haym, the fere feet are represented sather loo fong.^ A eentury a^ they did n»t pay the atten- tioB to Minute acenraey in sueh representations which they 4o new, and nearly that time has elapsed since the work of Haym appeared. f His mode of expressing himself is,' to he sure, soioowhat eqnivoeal. because he says, ^ when it rais it went hopping like a bird ;'' but the words ^< e semprt caminA sopra due piedi sglanuntej^^ as well as ^ stUtd mcU^ aiio quawP e spatmri^o," when added to the engraved vepresentatioii plainly prove what it was. It is generally osteemed as as article of food in all eountries where it is fbmid* It borrowa im the ground like a rabbit i but seenis Moi% to resemble the sqinrrel than either that animal or the vat. Its fine dark eyes have all the lustre of the antelope's^ Haym s^s, the smeU of it is never t^ensive when kept domestiek ; and, indeed, it may be eensidered one of the most pleasing, harmleso little quadrupeds of whiek wts kaTo ai^ knowledge. G nielin oMerved it in the nei||^b«af - hood of Woronets in 1768 ; Messerschmied in Siberia i aim Haslequist ia £gypt.f When our army was eneamped tiear AleKandria, iatbe Late expedition to Egypt, the soldiers freserved some of these animaU m boxes, and fed them like rabbits. * Sbaw's Tratete, p. 177, Aim, the scitjiorreited by fans r ReMd. Bfclp. Theoph. apud JEUan Hist. Anim. lib. xt. o. S6. Photiiu». ibid. Arist de Mttrib. Egypt. t Haj^n'fli Ttwro Bnt«iuiiM> 'fi9»|^abli«l»e^ iir 1720» M^. b«i-.tbfti«i|Ml alire; and a Very carious account of it is given in the second y^lnmcof bit wpvk, p. 124. \ Joamai des Sjavans Voyageurs, p. 7%. ^alclelieserfti^ «ii«e the re«id«n6e of the khan, ii,imI the Tar** ^r capital (>f the-Criqiea. As it w«8«ttr tnteotioti 1^ msJs» the tioiir (^ tin the so«th part of Ibe penifitiilaf we lott n* time III setting out fer this f>laee. We met several ^earap ran^y which were prtneipally laden with^iMiifdb^wof sdieii immense length aad size, that the Matemeiit of Iheir dimea- »ions will, perUaf>s, noi be believed* We measafed Aaani that were iQ'len^h above two feet. There is no article i^ food 90 grateful to a RxiAftia^ as the salted 'eaaamber, ami aU the inhabitants of the Crimea ealtivate the plaat lor the sake of the piekie they allbrd« They hare vai^eliee of tftjs vegetable uofctiown in BaglaiKl ; aaioag ot&eps, oma %\^ieh b snow white, and- whieh attains the aatiniwhiajf »«ize I have mentioned, wit boat running to seed, or losii^ any tiling of its erisa and refFesking flavour* Tlieeoanr try, as we advanced, beeame more diversified with %vood; and near the villages we saw ^od erops of eorn and baf. i have before observed, that n traveller, aniees lie visiliB theaoathern coast, may pass over all the rest of Ite Cri^- mea,. and from 4ts appearanee eonelade that the whol^ eonntry is aothipg but a flat and dreary steme* Baktoha- serai is the^rst objeet in the whole journey from Yenikal^ to Sevastopole, whieh interrapts the dull monotony of «t least two think of tihe paniasala, to the north of Tohetifi- idag)»9 Aiid the otlier mountains whieh ^p|»oae Ifa^kiselves-ta thfi Black Sea on the sojutbern«ide. It isone^f tJie moat remarkable tnwas in Enrope,: first, in the novelty of ils titanners and eastoun, winch are atntdiy oriental, and be- tray nothing whajbsoever ^f a Suropean eharaoter : ae- .eondly, in the sciteof the to^n itself, wtiiek oeoupie» tba cr,aggy sides of a prod^ious, >natural fASse between tw^ lii^h mountains, so aie what like that- of li^^latloek in DoH^f-* ^hire. The view breaks «U at oiife apan- the traveller 4n ^a^ most irregula|; aodsoattered manner; while hinbbUag ib«ia- tf^ins^jttnning watery, gardens^ terraces, hanf^ing vine- yards, and groveaof the black poplar, seem to soneatha iiorrour-of r«oka and precipices, and even, make them ap- jiear tavitiag.^ Tb»Tel%iowg vcncratiwn witii' which ito Tartars regard their fountains, induces them to ipare no expense whieh may enrich them with the purest water. These ftuatains are almost'as necessary to the ceremonies of • Twenty EosUsh »ilei, M6 «&A.aKB's VIAVEI.S IN TAl^TAIlY* the motqiie, Its thej M*e'Oir»&raenlaL to the towB; shiee every true Mosiem washes his head, beard, hands, and feet, before he proceeds to prajer. The number of fouD- tainsis so ^reat at Baktcheserai, that they are seen in all parts of the city ; water flowing from them day and nighty as eold as ice, and as clear as crystal. One of them nad not less than ten spouts, from which the purest streams •on tinually fell upon slabs of marble. Here, four times in every twenty four hours, the Tartars, invoked by their Muuas from the loilty minarets, are seen assembled per- forming their ablutions, and proceeding to their mosques. If Pfiley's position be admitted, that ^^ a man who is in earnest about religion cannot be a bad man,"* the Moham- *raedans, being more in earnest than any sect of worship- pers upon earth, are entitled to respect ; and I will coniessi I never beheld a Moslem at his prayers without feeling a kindling awe, inspired by the sincerity of his devotion. Not a syllable is suffered to escape his lips, except those whieh express the name of God, and which, at intervals, are heard in low, impressive sighs. His whole soul seems to hold eommunion with the object of his worship : nor does any thing divert his attention.! To describe what Bakteh^serai waa, it would be neces- sary to convey ideas at least adequate to the present ap- pearance of its ruins : and this is very difficult. The •avagie and wanton barbarity of the Rujuians found in the magnificence of this capital wherewith to exercise, in its foirscope, tbeir favourite passion for destriiction. The eity was divided into seyeral departments, of which the Greek eolonv alone Dccupied one entire and extensive val- ley. This jthey entirely deuiQlished, not leaving one stone upon another. The palace of the khan in the center of the towu^ was that in which he usually resided ; but he had a favourite and more pleating retirement in a magnificent • Paley*s Sermons, DSso. I. Land. 1S08. f The efficacy of inward devotion, as contrasted with ettenuil t>fleiiii|s, is teeoramendiecl with powerful sira|>Ueity in a tfjiedtaaeii of eady Eagwh poetry, as old as the tinse of Queen Ettzabetb, preserv.ed in the TKaveis of <* CerUv^ Engfiahmen into farrt countries/* printed in 1609. It it the end of a Latin inscription in the church at Cologne' (on t&e Offerfugs ^ the three Kings) translated into English : ** For Crold present a perfect heart ; ' ' For Myrrh admit him tears ; ^or Fronkincenae, powre from thy br^ A fMtae oi humUe pralcrs !V ei^fiee^ most deli^lilMly Mlaialedl bMtatk a iBMinUM, ^poD the slepia^ siie of a beautiful vi^e. Tlus they ao completely erased, that witliout a gnide to the «pot no one ean diaeover eyea where it rtood* Of the. rest of the city not ftbore one third now remaifis. Were I to detail half the cruelties, the extortion^, the rapine, and barbarity, prac- tised by the Russians upon the devoted iahabitajits of tke Crimea, and their deluded khan, the relation would ejk- oeed belief. I have the authority of one of their eooimaa- ders, whom 1 dare not name, for asserting, that when the ^Mtdlas^ or Tartor priests, aseended the minarets at mid- day to proelaiffl the noon, aeeordin^ to their ufual eustom, the RnsslinB soldiers amused themsetves by firing muskets at tliem ; and in one of these instanees a priest was killed. The repugnancy with whieh every English reader will ^ruse an account of siteh enormities, may lead him to doubt the veracity of the representation ; altlwttgh given a» it was received from an eye-witness of the faet. The capture of the Crimea was ao ev^t which <exoited the attention of all Europe : but the eireumstances which led to the deposition and death of the khan are not so aenerally known. Thev have been artfully eoncealed by the Rtts»iafis ; ^ and the brilliancy of the conquest of the Crimea, dazzling the ima^nation, has preventai a dae inquiry into those dark , and sinister mancetivresby which the plot was carried on for ] the subjection of the peninsula. Poteinkin, that ardi'^est ' of intrigue and wickedness, planned and execated the whole 4f it 7 to fulfil whose des^igns it was iwmwterial irhat laws were violated, what pHhclples trampled «n, what murders \. committed, or what iaith'hrakefl. His prkietpal favourites were swindlers, adventurers, pimps, parasites: nnpriaei- ^jled men 6f evefry description^ hut ospei^aily unprinoipled "![ inen of talent, found in- him a ready patron."^ It is wdtlLnown, that by tb« last treaty of peaoe whieh Russia made with the Tuirka, p^iqrlo the conquest 9f the fmmf^lit^J^ybfAm QhinUof the family of the khans, who "tltadibottoajMisaner and a ho^taigeat Petersburgb, was pla- t^d otf the thrtvne of the Crimea. This waaihe first 6l,ep /.,towiM:d% the overthrow of that kingdom. From the i^oment of his accession, the Russian .minister in thd Crimea, an artful and desigaij^gforeigper; well chosen from Potemkin's * The noted pi^r Seint)!e Vas amodfi tfk6 itVLinbeA He possessed eon- «iderable iofluence oVer Foterukin ; una it is raid tlie Resent ttniform of ilie R'lssiaQ t«x^ wns reoommeiiUefi'by bini:. ^ ' V Ee 81^ CItAftXfi's TRAVBLS IN TikkfAftTe Hsito exeeate tbe plans he h^ in vietv,begaii.t9 txtki&ikB Tartars against the khan, raieingf commotions among them^ buying over the disafteeted, and stimulating the people to frequent insurreetion. In the mean time he insinuated him-' self into the epod graees of the khan, teaching him to do whatever might he most unpopular in the eyes of his sob^ jeets. Among other dangerous absurdities, ho prevailed •upon the khan to plaee every thing in his establishmeot upon a Russian footing i to diseipline his troops after the Russian manner ; to build frisates on his eoast, filling his. head with preposterous ^eas of the nay igaticm of the Blaek Sea. Thus he incurred enormous expenses, which eompel* led him to drain his subjects of their money, and increased their murmurs. The Hussian minister, equally aetive on both sides, lost no opportunity to encourage the follies of the khan, or to augment the disafifeetion of the nobles. The work saeeeeded to his utmost wishes ; a revolt took place, which soon became general ; and the terrified khan was persuaded to fly, first to Caifa, and afterwards to Taman. Then it was that the last niaster-stroke of political in- trigue was effected. The khan was prevailed upon to call in the assistance of the Russian troops, who were eagerlj . waiting the proposal, and as eagerly acceded to it. Thus a ■ Russian army was suffered to enter, unmolested, into the heart of the Crimea. Under pretext of punishing those who had rebelled against the khan for a revolt they had themseh'es excited, they put to death whomsoever they thought proper, took possession of the strong holds^ -and practised their usual excesses. The Tartars, some by compulsion, others by entreaty, and a still greater number by terrour, were driven from their country, and compelled to seek elsewhere a residence'. The khan returned to i^ara- Kuha^ar, where the Russian army was encamped, and there, in presence of the Russian troops, was persuaded to order * his nobles to be stoned to death ; his pretended allies feast- ing their eyes with the slaughter of men whom they- first intluced to rebel against their sovereign, and afterwards ^caused to be butchered for having complied with their de- mres. Thus the deluded khan and his still more deluded subjects, alike the dupe of designing wretches whom they had allowed to take possession of their country, began at Ijist to open their eyes, and endeavoured to rid themselves of an alliance so fatal in its consequences. It was too late ; the khan was himself a prisoner in the very eentre of the TO 'fHB CAPITAL OV THE CaiMBA« 84£ Rasfl^B «rmy : and the rest t&f their coidaet towards faim eieeerU in depravity all that had preceded. A proposal was^ made to him (o resign the crown of the OriQiefa ; to quit the peniMnla ; and to attest, by his sign maniiai, that the iadividuals of his family, in whieh the throne was hereditary, were for ever rightfully deposed, t^bekhaii reeeived the insolent proposal with the astonish- jment and indignation whieh it merited ; but he was re- minded, that being indebted to the Russians for his king- dom, he ought to resign it whenever it might accord with their wishes. The reasoning was arbitrary ; but very effec- tual when it is enforced at the month of a cannon, and an unfortunate prince^ to whom it was addressed, remains jprisoner in the camp of his enemies. In addition to thtfs proposal, conditions were annexed, that instead of foeinjr^ deprived of his dignities by compliance, the khan should have his residence in Petersburgh; that he should hold a^ eonrt there of much greater splendour and magnificeiiee- than he had known in the Crimea; that he should be al- - lowed an annual pension of one hnadred thousand roubles, beenriclied by all manner of presents, enjoy the luxuries •f that great capital, and partake in the amusements which the magnificence of Catherine constantly afforded ; that no restraint whatever should be put upon his per«ion, but that he should be at full liberty to act as he might think proper. The khan saw the snare into whieh he had fallen, but there was no method of liberating liiinself. He retained, however, aufficient firmness to persist in a refusal ; in consequence of \i^ieh, force completed what entreaty was nnable to accom- plish. He was dragged a prisoner to Kaluga,* a wretched laralet upon the river Oka, yet ranking as the capital of a governtnent of the Same name, and a thousand versts dis- tant from Peter sburgh, from which place he was not per- mitted to move. In this miserable condition, finding that neither his pension was paid to him, nor any single engage- ment fiilfilled which the Russians had made, he insisted upon going to Petersburgh, but was told it could not be permitted. At last, giving himself over entirely to despon- dency, he exclaimed :' «* Let me be delivered a victim to the Turks I they will not refuse me, at least, the privilege of ■" 'Mr. Etoa {^Surveif of the Turk, Empi p. 323] says, he "retired t(k Kalugtk^ Was the hberty of retiring ever known in Russia ? A similar expression, however, occurs irt p. 308. *♦ He Quitted Russia, and retireet to CofistatUwfiofie/^ I hope Mr. Eton's ^nt^reiiiiihig-w'ork iMd not texneri- ' eaoe a revisal from the hands of tlie Russian police. ehootiii^ th« Manner of my death, sinee my ea^^ies bfti« vegolved on my destmction !" The unparalieled cruelty of tke Rnsstnm, tuge^ed the propriety of acceding to this re^fuest ; they rejoieed to hear it made, because it offered an ^Rsy me(-hod of getting rid of one whom they had pillaged, andivhose presence was no longer either necessary or desi- rable. ' They placed him, therefore, upon the Turkish fron- tier, where he was taken, and, being afterwards sent to Rhodes, was beheaded.* ' If it be now asked what the llossians have done with regard to the Orimea, after the depravity, the cruelty, and the murders by whioh it was obtained, and on that account 4)eeauie so Ikvonriteiui aeqnisition in their eyes, the answer to giten in few words. Thev have laid waste the eonnlry ; letdown the trees; pulled down the houses | oTerthrown the Micred ediiees of the natives, with all their pabliek build- ings ^ destiH^yed the publick aqueducts : robbed the inhabi- tants ; ltt«tf lied the Tartars in their acts of publick worship; torn np from the tombs the bodies of their aneestorsj cast- ing their relieks apon dunghills, and feeding swine out of f heir coffins; annikilated «dll the nioaiuaents of antiquity, breaking up alike the sepulchres of saints and pagans and peattefing their ashes in the air, " .tfi^erre, rapere, irucidare fahisnominibm^Imptrium; atquetiH solUudi^mfuciunt F^cem appellant P^ There was something very emphatick in the speech of a poor Tartar, who, one day lamenting in his^earden the.ha- Toek made among theihiit trees by a severe frost, said> we never used to exnerienee such hard weather ; but aine^ the 'Bussfans came, ttiey seem to have brought their winter along with them." ' The principal palace of the Khans is still entire, and probably may escape the general destruction ; because the late empress ordered it to be kept in repair, and always according to its present oriental fVirm. When she came to • The reader, haviDg perused this nafrative, vUl determine wheAer tlierc has been any thing on the part of the French,' respeeting Spain, to equal the atrocity of the Russians in getting possession of the Crimea. Mr. EftotH inhis SarTe^r of the Turkish Empire, p. 304, says their i-igbl to tb« penuisula was sacred, and that ** the mouth is unholy toHch dam to arraign it,^^ The representation he has given in roftny parts contt*adiets itself; for example, m p. S^, he witnestied the expulawij.ql' 75 000 CHristiftns from the Crimea by the Russians^ almost all of whom perished, in consequence of their cinielty, in the deserts of NayKa j yet in p. S33, he says, ** th«se.icho olioae t^ r«u|Hun/f aft^r the seizure of Ihe Crijne«> *• were left in the quiet possesuon ©f their proper^ and their rpli|ppp." T& th« capital" or tHE cmuBA. tli Baktefi^serai, tltej had fitted np a net of apartnents for her in the Freneli taste; wkieh gKte her ffreuk oileAee^ ftii4 caused her to issue the order for its preserration a^eoipdiw to the ori^nal style observed in the UoikliDg^ It is stiiiam in the midst of a^ardens, froni whieh eiremnstanee the «ity derives its name.* Those gardem are ftlied with fonntaioB and fine fruit trees. Its interioar presente that kind of tee- nerj whieh eastern romances desoribe, and oar theatres tn- deavonr to represent ; eonsistinj^ of ehamhers, galleries aad passages, so in(rieat« and irregular, that it is imporaibie to ^ive anj deseription of the plan bj whioh they are p«t together, or the parposes for whieh tJiey were ercetad* UpoB the whole, it w rather iniignifioantfor thereiideBCoof a •orereign. A large liall^ opening by moaaa of ftmhea to tli^ ^rdens ^f the seraglio, and to Afferent tovrts, reeoives h^ veral staircases, wliieh wkid to ^^ferent parts oi' Ao paiaet. From this hailadoor eondnetedtiiekhan to asaMdlaioi^, for his private devotioae, when he did not appear ia puUidf. Ascending to the apartments, w« find no resamblaiiee to nnj thing Earopeah. The rooms are simlII, aiidsarr#«iided hj divans ; the wiadowa all ooneealed by wooden lattioes, or as they are called by the Vrem^^ jmiamsks* Some of the windows look otiiy f^om one room iato another $ but faeiag intended, perhaps, more for omameiK • than atility^ tliev consist of small easements placed in little oUongrows, aM are at the same time so lilled with frasnewock and lattiee, that no «ne can see through them. In the windows of the htst apartments we observed painted glass. Scvaral of tlie staircases whidi oondnot from >osie set of fooms to another, are open to the air; bnttheiiersons ascending or desoendiqg were concealed from all oatward view by lattiees* The ehief eoneern both of Tartars and Tnrks ia their d weilings, seems to be, to avoid observation. Their apartments ase vtry cold, and, to the generality of Enropeans, would be insufferable in winter; but the Tartar, having nothing to 4o daring that season of the year font to sit smoking, wrap- ped up in a huge peliftse,^ would find the rooms equally in- capportable if they were warmer. A very handsome bath, prepared in one part of the palaoe for the late empress, is worthy of notice ; because, remain* ing exsietly as it was fitted np for her, it proves the im- mense sums which were lavished by Potemkin during har * Baktche9erai unifies a paloi^ mfw9f4 in o ^wriJm* 8es Fsttiui'* Travels, vol. U. p. 2§, aU eftA<KE*8 TRAVELS IK TART ART. celebrated jMrney to tlie Crimea. The game luxuries were |ir»vi<led for her wherever she halted, together with all the ale^nee and eonvenienees of palaees, famished, as if for her eontimia! residence. She had adopted the daily practice of bathing her body with cold water, and for that purpose tlie most sumptaoiis baths were every where erected ; and thouj^h most of them were used only once, they were all lioed throns^hout with white cotton quilts, and surrounded by earpets and sofas of the same materials. The part of tlie seraglio whieh was particularly appropriated to the u<(e of the women, it is well known, bears the name of the Charem* One has a natural inclination to see the inside of «ne of these piaces, seetuded as they are from observation -by the Mohammedans, with such ri^d caution. There is nothing, however, to gratify the curiosity excited by so laueh mystery. The charem of the khan has been preserved in its origrna! state, without the slightest alteration. Po- tenkin passed his nights there during the visit of the em" press, and was much amused with the idea of sleeping in a ebarem. It consists of a set of very indifferent apartments of a square form, opening one into another, which have neither magnificence nor ipomfort. They are detached from the palaee, and surrounded by a garden with high walls. Owing to the lattic»*s which cover the windows, and (he trees planted before them, the miserable prisoners doomed to reside there, eould hardly have obtained a view even of the sky ; the only object granted to their contemplation. Having no literary resource, the women shut up there pass- ed their time, as ladies informed me who were in (he habit of visiting them, in embroidery, and in drinking very bad eoffee, with sometimes sherbert, and a poor sort of lemonade. In the Turkish eharems the women are allowed the greater Itttury of smokins, which to human beings so situated must become one of the roost important blessings of life. The mast remarkable part of the seraglio is the entrance, by a winding passage so narrow, that one person only could pass at the same time, vpho was under the absolute necessity of steppine so close to the guard as to wake him, even i^ he were asleep. = Into this passage the khan descended by a private staircase appropriated solely to his use. The Armenian roerehants of Naktshivan, who, with al- most all the Christians of the peninsula, emigrated from • ' Pf onoTinoea ffarem, with ft guttural ^apirate, in in the ^rcofc II^^ TO Ttf £ ekmAi* or. turn omvoul. a^ Uie Criniea, were ori|;t«aIIj inbabitaiiU ofBakte^esemi;^ And their loss has been sererelj felt eyev ftinee theooaque«t' of this country by the Russians. The present popiUatioQ^^ inclndioff male and female, amounts to near six thousand* souls. t In this number are inoladed above eleven hundred^ Jews, four hundred and twenty of which are registered aa merchants. The number of Tartars does ao^ exeeed three tliousand ; of which number, twenty belong to the class of Aobles, two. hundred and thirty seven are nterejiants, one hundred and seventy three priests, and seventy eight stihi- dents of divinity. The morning after our arrival, colonel Riehaml Duaanty a native of Smyrna, and au officer in the Russian service, residing in Bakteheserai, accompanied us oa horsa back te- elimb the steep defile which leads from the city to the Jew- ish colony of Dschoufotdkale,^ situated on a mountain, and distant about five versts^- These Jews are of the sect called. Kkrraj they inhabit an ancient fortress originally construct-, ed by the Genoese, upon a very lofty precipice. Passing up the defile which leads to this fortress, we observed Tartar . women creeping about among the tombs and ruined mosquea > in snow white veils, which made them appear like so many ghosts, sometimes covering all the face, except the eyes^ at others, concealing the whole of the head. 1 heir beauti-* ful flowing drapery, and the interesting groups they formed among the ruins, would have furnishra a noble subject for an artist's /pencil. As if their veils were no( a sufficient screen, no sooner do they behold a man, than they hang* . their heads, and often endeavour to get out of sight by run- , ning awaj. An English servant, whom Admiral Mordvinof brought into the Crimea, observing this aversion in the Tartar women from being, seen, deemed it an act of rude- ness to give them the trouble of hiding their faces,, and of running away on his account ; therefore, whenever he en- . countered them, he used to cover his face and take to his heels, to conceal himself in the first place that presented. This passed unnoticed for som^ time } hut n^t lengjth, the * The Bwaber-of emigranU ameuated to- 75,000, all of whotn, except- ing 7,000, perished from eold, hvngeiv aad «ther eiaises in the stepfeft, on the western side of the sea of Azof. ^ . . -^ Five thousand seven ^hondred' and scveotf ttx^ a«MrdiiBf<tot PaMat^ [1 ravels, vol. It. p. 29] inelucUng Greeks, Armenians* J^vsj ai^d Tsirtatji^ t "Dschov/out i» a name, originally of reproach, bestowed opoi (lie ^cw^; «n^i^a^^«igi^e«afiort9eas. . ,. « 3m TkMftttr 4fmiM», stnwk witk U» »tttf|akrity«£.g§akii^ii:iB«i altHBtys ftVMd tiienif and endenvour to^coneeal himself from thdf obsei^atron, let fiUl a partien of their veils whe»tbey nett met htm, which ai^ aaased him ta raaliBustdr thaiibe- ifefe. This «Keitad thi^rmriofiky ta soeh a degree^.thatat l^gth they faiHy bunted him) and after ibUowiii|^4iiiB hi parties to ist hiding filoee^ with their v^ils (sSy w«re re- !9olTedto8ee tiienan, who, for the first tine eoneaaled his face attheappfoaehof a weman^ and aetaaUj daimmded 'aa eiplanation of his extraordifnary eoDdnet. * ' Adraneing along the dofik» aad always aiaendia^ wt |m»sed 'above the remains of 4hat part of the eity which I before mentioned as belonging to the Gneeks. It is nothipg bat a heap of rnins, with scarcely one &tmie upon another. As we proceeded, they showed ns in the vei^ highest part of the rocks an iron ring, to wfaieh, according to their tra- ditions, vessels were foitnerly fastened; althon^h they most haife rode many hundred feet above the present levei of the ' Biack 8ea. The tradition, however, is, or ought to be, s«t dside, by a much more rational account given of this ring; vi2. that a rope was fastened to it upon festival days, which being carried across the defile to a similar ring on ^le op- posite side, the khai}^ amused themselves by seeing a man cross over the valley, fi'om one precipice to the other, after the same manncfr as at Venice, where, during the eamival, a hired rope dancer was drawn up to the lop of the tofwer of ' St. Mark, whence he descended by aw>ther rope, M^tb a boquet of fiowei« in his hand, to present tO' the dojge. This is the account the best informed give of themarvetlaos Hag n^ar Baktcheserai 5 but Baron de Tott very eredalously ad- mitted the original tradition, with all its 'arfasnrdity. The only objection belowing to the more rational aecoant arises from the difficulty ofeoBceiving how any rape^ seext^adedy could support a man's weight withouf breaking. - Farther up the defile is a very remarkahle example of the power of hitman labour, in a Greek monastery, or ehapel^ hevvn in the very side a^t the preeipioe, and in snch a msn- ner that nothing of it is visible but the smaM perforated M- vities through which light waseommunieated to thehite- •rieur. The weeks of the Crifnea were forbidden by the Tartars the Hse of any publick chureli, nor were the^ al- lowed to exercise, pnblickly, the functions of their religion ; in ooasequence of which, lUte the persecuted Arians, they fied to rocks and preoi||ices,'- secretly exeavatthg the . m«stittMet8salil« anvetiMy and adeenii^io Acur. ««btetT&< neous sbrlaes by small, wincUD^ stair^a^s eoA«eaIefl from 4he niMt prjkig observ^attoiiw ^fbis result of their laboaf and pietj remains among (lie few things whieh the Rus- sians haire not foond it easy to destroy; offering one of LbfC most singular ouriosities in the Crimea; and to all appear* anee, being suspended like a Martinis nest upon the faee of a lofty, preeipice beneath stapendous rooks. We now eame to the lower verge of some steep elifEs^ and beheld on the sammit^ the walls of Dsehonfoatkale. In a reeess, upon our right hand, appeared the eemetery, or ^\ field of dead^^^ belonging to the Karaite Jews^ Nothing ,eouJd be imagined mfrre ealeulated to inspire holy medita- tion* It WM A beajitiful grove, filling a chasm of the monn- tains, rendered dark by the shade of lofty trees and over- hanging roeks. A winding path conducted through this solemn seene* Several tombs of white marble presented a fine. contrast to the deep ^reen of the foliage, and some fBomle figores in white veils were offering pious lamenta* tions over the graves* An evening or a morning visit to tlie sepulchres of their departed friends, is, perhaps, the only airing in which the Jewish women indulge themselves, as they seldom leave their houses ; and in this respect their customs are similar to those of Tartars and Turks. "^ If the belief these nations entertain, that the souls of the dead hover about their earthly tabernacles aad hold communioa with the livine, could be admitted by the followers of Christ, it woulif not b^ possible to direct the human mind to any exercise more consolatory^ or more sublimely affecting. I never satv Mohammedans or Jews so circumstanced, with- oiit feeling something very like a wish to share at least with them this article of Uieir faith. 'The asoeftt from, the cemetry to the fortress,, although short was so steep, that we were forced to alight from our hpMeg, and ac tualiy climb to the. gateway. Several slaves however, .busied iu conveying water upon the backs of as* aety passed us in their way up. The spring whieh supplies th^m-i* below in the defile I and a very eopions reservoir, cut ia the roeks abo^e is prepared for the use of the colony. ♦ This little vallfey lof Jfehosbaphat is so highly vahied by the Jews that, irhenever theandent khans wish«d to extort feoia them a pisesiQiit, ^ i» . r^9e Ji votumofy eootribution, it wa« siifieient to threaten tbein with tlwj extirp:^tiOn of those sjicred trees, undci* tlie plaasible pretence ol w*»t»n* fue! or thn'bev." PallaiU, T^a^>ef»va. IF. p. 35. '•'• '■ Ff ^ ^^ As \^ fiai^d tlie Mtewny, and enfer^ th^ toi^, iirier ^|«|>^ met by several »ftiie inhabitants. Celanei Dnnant inqnit* ed for a Jew of his atqaaintanee, one of the principal pe6- ple in the p!aee. We trere eoodneted to his house, and A>nnd him at noon sleeping: on his diran. He roseio're- •eive U89 and presently regaled as with rarioas sorts 6f eon- jfectionary, amone whieh were conserved leases of roses, and preserved walnuts ; also eggs, eheese, C6l(l pies and brandy. A messenger was dispatelied for ike rabbi, whom he invited to meet us, and who soon aAer made his appeaT- ance. This man was held in very high eonsideratiDn by them ail, and with good reason 1 for he was exeeedin^lV well informed, and had passed a pnblic examtnatton with distingnished honour in P€iter«biirgh, after t>eing sent far eiprcssly by the empress Catherine. We were highly in- terested by their eonversation, as well as by the singdfarity of having fbnnd one Jewish settlement, perhaps the only one upon earth, where that people exist secluded from the rest of mankind, in the frte exereise of their aneient ens- toms and peeuliarities.* The town contains about twelvS hundred persons of both sexes, and not more than two hun« dred houses. The Tartars Idl here a stately foausoleum, erected for the daughter of one of their khans, now a ruin. The principal part of each dwelling belong to the wo- men $ hut every master of a family has his own private atiartment, where he sleeps, smokes, and receives his friends. 1 he room in which we were entertained was of thisd0seri^ tion : it was filled with manuscripts, many in the hand-wri- ting of our host ; others by those of his children ; and all in very beautiful Hebrew clMiracters. The Karaites deem it an act of piety to copy tht^ Bible, or ceptoas commenta- ries upon its texts, once in their Irves. AH their mafia- •eript copies of the Old Testament began with the book of Joshua I and even the most ancient did not contain the Pen- tateuch. That part of ihe Bible was kept apart, bat os- ly in a printed version for the use of sehools.f In the tys- * It seems ungulartfaRt mtch fortresses should have bseo potseaed W gach a people ; yet in Abyssinia the Falcuha appfsav siniHariv situfcteiU • and Jacksoa mentioDS a Jew's Rock in Morocco. tlebei^s MS. hvt- nal, f T^® reason |;ivcn hj the raljbi for the oroissioii of the books of Ms** in tlieir manuscript copies was, that the Pentateuch being tn constant nj iSwr the instmetion of thetr children, it was reserved apart^ tbattJie «We V»lume iQij^kt not he Kahie to the injuries k waold Uiiia aastaia. Mff^gmh ^Ml the ^jMi^^NOoB af t%«.baoiBi ai MuMft, vfetf t%iw wa»in mptBUfMBfipt. The rabbi asked ii' we had aQjr of t j»e Kf^raite s^Pt in Eiip^aiid--^a quesiion we could noi HQtwer* He«aid there WQra few in HoHand : a«d, I belierie .a8««eet it mi Very rani, Tlie^e Jew»cati themselves Kakai« l^he etymafa>(9^ of the name is uaoertain. The differene^ heljwaeii thelc er^ed aadthatof JewBiQeeaeral, aceording |o Ihe in^formatioii reeeived frfita the rabbi, eansists in a re< j<tal|<io ^t the Talmud ; a disregard to every kind of tradi- iimn $ to all rabbiai^iU writiogs ar opioi^ns i all inarg^iiial iflit^palattoBs of the texts of seripture; ancl, in a measure •f thMr rnkuof faith hj the pore letter frf the law. They l^r^nd td bavct the text c^ the Old Tefttament in its most Barnsae state. Being deurous to possess ono of their Bir e% the Rfihhit who seemed (^raUiied by the interest wa IbetrJiyedf permitted me to piijrehase a beautiful manuscript «dipy writtea upon vi^llam, abotttfeiir huiuired years old; ^»t having left this valame in the Crimea, to be forwarded J^y way of Petersburgh, it was never afterwards reeovered* fl began like .(he ot&sra whieh were shown to us, with the .hook of Jfifihua* The^hara^ter of the Karaite Jews is directly opposita lo that which is generally attributed to their brelJiren ^«t 'Other^eoixutriiss; being altogether witho&t reproach. Their Imoesty is proverl»al in the Crimea ; and the word of a Ka»> raile is considered equal to a bond. Almost all of them are eoga|;ed io trade or manufaeture. We were surprised i& «ee vtneieaves sold in the streets^ particularly as they aise abundafft in th^^ eountry ; But this article^ is in very §reat demand^ ta use in eookery« Their minced meat is JToUed up in vine lea^es^ and sent tenable in the form of sait- aages« The^ observe their fasts with the most serupuloas rigour, abstaining even from snuflFand smoking ibr twenty^ four hours tagetlier. In the very earliest perimls of Jewish history, this seet separated from the main stem. This, at least is their own aeeount ; and nothing eouoerniag t^em ought to be received from rabbinists, who hold them in de- testatioii. For this reason, the relations of Leo of Mode- na, a rabbi of Venice, are not to be admitted. Their schism is said to be as old as the return from the Babylonish eapU^ vity. They use very extraordinary care in the education of their children, who are taught publiekly in the s^na- fgues; and in this respeet the Tartars are not defieient. rarely entered a Tartar village la the day4ini6 withaot »eeiog the efcildren assembled in some pobliek place, reeeifw ing their instruetion from persons appointed to superintend the care of their edacation ; reciting with audibte voiees passages from the koran; or busied in copying manaseript lessons placed befoi« ihem. The dress of the Karaites differs little from that worn by the Tartars. All of them, of whatsoever age, suffer their beards to grow; boiamoog Tartars the beard is a distinction of age, the young men wearing only whiskers. The Karaites wear also a very lofty thiek felt eap, faeed with wool, whieh is heavy, a»t keeps the head very hot. The Turks and Armenians of- ten do the same ; and in warm climates this preeaoiion seems a preservative against the dan^rous eoaseqnenices whteb result from obstructed perspiration. From this interesting colony we returned, by a different road along the tops o? the mountains, toBakteheserai^* •oneerning which place I hope not to have omitted any thia^ the reader might deem worthy of his attention. • '< Batchiserai is entirely inhftb'iteil by T«*Un) Jews, And Armenians^.- and is the inost populous plaee we saw in the Ciiiaea. It ha» teyeral mostjue) Ibesides a very uoe one in the seraglio, witfi two minai-ets the raarifcof roy- alty. There are some decent cutlers' shops, and some manufactories of ; felt carpets, and one of red and y^Uow leaOi^r. The houses are almost HBiversally of wood and ill -baked bricks, with wooden piazzas and sbeiring roofs of red tile* There is a new church dedioated to St. George ; but the moelr striking feature is the palace, which, though neither large nor regular^ yet, by the picturesque style of its ardiiteeture, its carving and gilding, it* Arabick and Turkish inscriptions, and the fountains of beautiful water ill «tery court interested me more than I can express. The apai*tment8« «Xt ^ept the hall of justice, ard low and irregular. In one are a number of . bad paintings, representing different views of Constantinople; and, to mj surprise, birds were pictured flyin|^, in violation of the Mohsmmedait j^rohibition to pfunt any animah It is kept in tolerable repair; and the di- vans in the best rooms are still famished with cushions. One apartment* wluch was occupied by the empress Catherine, is fitted up in a paltry ball- ' room manner, with chandeliers, &c. and forms an exceptrontothe gen- eral style. The harem is a mean building, separated, from the other apartments by a small arched garden, and containing a kitchen, with six or eight small and mean bed-rooms, each of which(as we were told by our gui<!c, who was a Je^v, and remembered it in the time of the khans) was usually occupied by two ladies. In the garden is a large and delightful ki- osk, surrounded by lattice-work, with a divan round the indde, the cen^ tre t>aved with marble, and furnished with a fountain. The word serai «r seraglio, whieh is given to this range of buUdings, seem8> in the Tar- tar and Turkish language^ to answer to all the ngnificaitionsof oar fingysh word eourt ; being applied indiflVrently to the yani «C »niBX}> -or 4ie ea« closure of a palace." H9$&r*9 MS. JonrfwL CHAPTER XX ptO^tttt CAPItALOF THE CRIMEA TO THE HEJRACaLEJ- OTICK CHEUSONESUS. Itarantitla Spider — Departute from Backfcheserai-^Ctenm of Strabo — Aktiar — Caverns of Inkerman — Mephitick Mr — Cipfius of Theagenes — Ancient Geography ^ and 'Antiquities of the Minor Peninsula — Eupatoriwm — Cher- sonesus — Parthenium of Formaleoni — Monastery of St^ ^ George-^Balaclava — Genoese Fortress — Geology of th» ^Ctimea — Eeitiarkable Phenomena — Form of an ancient, Greek Town^-Manners of the People^ FPpjV our arrival at the house where we had fodgeS, we found the servant endeavouring to secure a very large Tarantula^ which he had caught in one of the out- houses. Some utility way fallow even our iniperfeet en- tomological researches, if they cause future travellers to avoid {fie dangerous consequences of an attack from sueh animals. Observations more at large wiU be found in a preceding chapter j* nor would the subject have been agaiu» . introduced, but with a view to contradict notions oropaga- ted concerning the harmless nature of these animals.. Both from my own experience, and the very extensive knowledge of professor Pallas, I am aifthorized to assert, thatin wariik eoUntries tlie wounds they occasion sometimes prove fatal.. The amputation of the part affeeted was the only method •f iraving our soldiers in Bgypt who had been bitten by the »e(n*pioii$ and Pallas had noticed the most dangerous eon- sequences from the attacks of the Seolopendra, the Phalan^ gitaii^ aod the Tarantula. Th« evening after we descended from the fortress beTong- tng to the Jewish colony, We left Baktcheserai, and reaebed the great b&y of Aktiar, upon which place the Russians^, m thetiaedf Cathefiae the Second^ bestowed the fanta^tiek name of Sebastopote. We had a passage of about two verst^ to make across the water to the town. Prince, Yjikzeiiaskoyy die goveriioary had statioaed a sentinel with a boat^ «M * Se« pp. S89«^C of thW ToloaaM Via iold US lie had waited'fottr days in exj^etiction ^f oOf eem* inp: ; and, according to the orders hb had reeeived, a geti wiiH fired, to erive notice to the garrison of ourtirririil.- Tile freat bav of Akiiar al«o bears the nameof The RomlB f and ere the Russian fleet is frequently at anehor. ltistll«Cte« nus of Straho*. The harbour, upon whieh thetdM^ol^Ak^ar \^as built about twenty years ago, has been appiNi^wtedto the reception of Russian ships of war. There «r8 #tiier ports, such as the Careenilte: Bay, the Bay tff Qwrnm^A]^, ike. The Crimea does not cSPord timber f^r bailJing'^shiiil, ^although there is always a sufficient supply for repairs.. Tbe 'fleets of the world might Hde secure^ and h«ve^»ftTeiiient anchorage, in the great harbour ; and in any of the porfs, vessels faiid from twenty one to seventy feet deptk«f water, and good anchorage. Tolhe Russian navy tl is one^of their most important possessions ; yet such wa« the surpiriniig isnorance or earelessn6ss of thdir government, that;fbritt«ie time after the capture of the UHmea the adva&tafe§«f this place were not discovered. The plan of the harhour sooie- what resembles that of Malta.t ' * . Aktiar contains two churches, one of whaeli i« ali«ids*me building. The principal street is broad, and the stair#. of the quay are spacious and magnificent. For the re^t^ with the exception of its magazines and barracks, it can, l^oast onfy a few i^hops.f Other objee is demand the attentioi\ of : the traveller, and call for all his activity. Landing, at Aktiar, he arrives, in the very centre of some of the n»ost interesting antiquities of the Criu^ea. The country included within the isilimus formed by the principal harbour of Ak- tiur, or Inkerman, that is to say, by iht ^Ctenus^t S^lrabo^ ' $trali« Gebg. lib. vii. ' * f Had the English fleet made « visit to Aktiar daring the estpeditiod t» X^^t, which I Kiave reason to believe Tras « paist of tiit: iDStnictioos gives 10 the eommander in chief, they might hare struck a l^low whieh ^oold liave prevented all the subseqnetit treachery experienced from Rue9i% almost without firinrg a gun: such was> at fclmt time, tlie stajte of thepenin- aula. I pre&cnted, both to the British tambHSsadour in Ct>nstaQtioople» and to lord Keith, an accurate surrey of tlie coast, witli all theapundingainthe portd of Aktiar, and the entrance to the roads; as well as tlte sitqatibn and quality of the roitgazities. artillery, and storeliouses. This doc^unent was confided to my care l^ one who wished Well to the British .intercft; and I brought it fi*om tlie Crimea at the lia&mHl Qi'>mx Me. . S«ch a stroke at that time had been amply merited <m the part of Kussia ; but tlie affajri ^ ^gTpt did'iK>t .terminate soon enough to allow of its b^ng earned Inlb affect. 1 have therefore deposited tfa^ p8p«r%in.the admiralfc}' o'Qicf, aad «rnly engraved ^e .pnttMpal.«ku^ 09 A MMf^mwIIW %. IN iMi^a fl€ "*^-jpag«a. ^ "- .' » TO TH£ U£ilACZ.SpTX«K 4IB£«aONB81». StflT %itd tbep^rt of BiilaiQlava or Partus l^^nihQlarum^ h th^ Hjkraojskoticis Cheksomesus, 80 accurately descriked by tbmt aiiihor as a portion of the Peninsida majors or Tauri- OA CH«Ri$pNi£BOs. On thts small district stood the citieis of the ' M ; aiad; new Chersanesm, and Eupatorium / th^ .Templm ^JHana^ and promotitory Far^A«miim, celebrated by the story of Iphigenia $ the famous Chersonesian Mole; wUli immoj^oicstrampartS} tombs, canals, ai|d other works, tlie memify of wWeh historians preserve, but the last tra« ees. of wWse majBificence the Russians daily labour to an* fl^ilate. Prmee Yi^eewkoy had prepared apartments for us in a "palace heloAgiog to the crown, similar to that already nor iced at BlaraCrtili ;tbiit there nas at that time resident in Aktiar* a«(MintrymaQr(^'ottrsin the Russian service, an illiterato . maii^ vi^hose vanity we found would be piqued if we did not ' take Op olir abod^ with him. He was priginally employed a^ flePV)iRt to the astronomer in Cooke's second voya^ ; and hjrtlie poivelrfol: tnlefes$ mode in his behalf, by professor Pallas and other persons of high respectability, obtained thti eoiomafvi of an expedition to the northwest coast of ' ' Aneriea,'of which ^a£k^r has published a narrative. He ^ liad the rank of commodore ; and his claim as a country-* « / • *« Aktiar, so caBed,' from its -white tocks. The old tpwo stood, as. we ' ' "^ier^ told, on the north of the harhour, where there are do remain^ of * t»y ftoiisequence, No ▼eaaeis tre huilt here,, as the timber must all be loated down the Bog pr Dneiper. A regulation had been made prohibit- I ingmeixhant vessels, the entrance into the hai^our, unless in poaltiTe dis* . Cress; a strange way of proceeding, when oompared with the general *' polley of EtoNipeAiL goTernfinents. The reason asaigaed was the embez^ .- ,.a(^rnen% ^ the pul^Uck stores, which were sold to the merchants by the gtt* vernment ojUcera, almost without shame. The effect has been to check entirely the prosperity of the town, and to raise every foreign commodity to a most extravagant price. Even provisions cannot be brought ty sea '^ ""without a sp'edal Uetenee. Thisinforxnation I deiived ^m the ^-t admi* • l*ad Bandakof, and from an BogUsh officer in the Russian service. The ' ' nattiral advantages of the harbour are truly surprising ; and the largest ■\ Tc^elS'Tfe withhi a cable's length of the shore. The harbour is divided . ' hito three coves, aifonling shelter in every wimU and likvourable sttuat30D9 '* for repairs, building, &e. On a tongue of high land, between tlie two southern c^eeles, stand the admiralty and storehouses, and on tho opj^iosite «ide isWite town. The pi'ineipal arm of tlie harbour runs eaSt,^nd is tei'* ^ xalAatedby thcTalleyand tittle river of liiltf*rmaii. These are soiu^ fd^ midabte batteries and ^vt mouth of the harbpur is very easy of defence. The old; and unservieeaUe cannon are broken intosQiall pieces, by beings J,' raised to a g^at height, and suffered to fall' on a bed of masonry ; ani^ thea Seht^ ins #e were told, tDLuganitobetitew cast.' To build a ship lii the ^ Black Sea' costs half as macli again aes to constiuiet itf^;t Crouatadt»^€rw<)p0i 9&% itLARK^'s TRAVELS ik TARTA&T. miiii) adde^ to bis other pretensions, indueed as to aeeept bis offers of aecommodation. We had reason afterwards to res^ret our folly ; for, in addition to the privations we •adttred beneath his roof, we found ourselves thwarted in every undertaking by his interference, and very often by hb aetoal misrepresentations to the governour and poliee offieers. He would not allow the prinee to grant us permis- sion for the removal of any article of antiquity we had pur- ehased,.alihoagh they were ail condemned to serve as build- ing materials $ and m'C had soon reason to apprehend, tha^ . we were aeeompanied, wherever he went, by as dangerous m spy as the jealous poliee of that country could possibly place over us. The room allotted to our use was a kind of . antichamher, destitute even of the meanest article of fumi- . ture, in which we slept upon the bare floor; nor should we . kskve noticed the rio^ur of our fare, if it had not born the , respectable name of English hospitality. The prinee prepared his skallop for us on t^e next day, . with twelve oars, to visit the ruins and caverns of Inker- vum^* at the extremity of the principal harbour. This com- . ■sodore and the metropolitan bishop accompanied us. Be- fore we reached Inkerman, some very remarkable excava- tions appeared in the rocks by the side of the bay, wJi^'ch were visible at a considerable distance. Upon examina- tion, they proved to be chambers with arched windows, cut • in the solid stone with great care and art. The bishop re- presented them to have been the retreats of Christians in , the earliest ages, tint to give an idea of what we saw at . Inkerman would baffle every effort of pen or peiieiJ. The rocks all ronnd the extremity of the harbour are hewn into chapels, monasteries, cells, sepulchres, and a variety erf works which eoiffound and astonish the beholder. A river flows here itilo the bay, after leaving, perhaps, the most beautiful valley in Europe. At the mouth of this river, the lemarkable antiquities are situated, which it is my present endeavour to describe, the excavations appearing on both sides of it. Those which first appear to. persons approach- . ing from Aktair are on the south side, and have been eon- verted into magazines for holding gunpowder. It was with creat difiieufty we conid prevail upon the sentinels to suf^ fer us to enter the caves in which the ammunition is kept These caves seem to have constituted an entire monastery^ TO TUB HBRACtBOTtCK eiIEB.SOVX&V%, ^ifk as the roek f^as been jso wonderfally perforated, thatit now. ekhihits a eh'areli, with several chambers and long passa-- ges teading oft' in various direetions. Passing alonfi^ these^ the fine prospeet of the valley of Inkerman is seen throngh tM \Vide, open arches, together with heaps of ruins on the opposite side of the river. The principal cavern appears to nave been the church. We found several stone eoliins cut in the rock, \i'hich had been laid open ; and we uoticed some Greek inscriptions above them, but the characters were too faint and imperfectly engraven, to be legible. The dittieulty •f copying or deciphering them was increased by the obseu- rity which prevailed. It was now evening; ar.d nigbt com- ing on, the full moon rose in great splenJour over the long valley of Inkerman, and presented a landscape, through; the arches of these gloomy caverns, which, perhaps, it is not possible for imagination to coneeive. Ou the opposite < side of the river the excavations were still more frequent^and somewhat more distant from the bay. Crossing an ancienl !iridge,wLose fair proportioned arch and massive superstrue- ture indicated masonry of some remote age, we iouiid the caverns so numerous as to occupy one entire side of a moun- tain, on the summit of which were the towers and battle- ments of a very large fortress, supposed to have belonged to the Genoese, but, perhaps, originally a part of the forti- fications erected by Diophantus, one of the generals of Mithradates. From the appearance of the staircases which conduct to it, and which lead also to the very cav- trns before mentioned, it is evident that a fortress wa& erected there ever since the excavations were first maile^ whatever the date of their origin may be. Several chapeU^ together with the remains of stone sepulchres whieh seem^ to itave contained the bodies of distinguished persons, are among these chambers, now tenanted by Tartars and their goats. The stone coffins serve as drinking-troughs for the eattle; and the altars, once perfumed with incense, are now filthy recejitacles for dung and mud. Pallas, who had paid eonsiderable attention to the subjeet, believed all these re- mains^ whether of buildings or excavated chambers, to have originated in a settlement of Arians, who, when Christian- ity met with general persecution, fled to these roeks, and fortified (hemselves against the barbarian inhabitants of the peninsula. Similar works are found in other parts of the Criuioa, particularly at Schulu and Mankoup ^ also in Italy, andotW |aurt4..ef £tti^{!»5 awd ttsejctew l^emUy Mil ACJUlUl't TlUMfStft t» TARtAfttk been attributed to thelahevr* of tlHma eaiiy CMstiAAs'^laii' fled from pergecutioB. The air of lakerman is uAAvhole- some durins the months of summer and aotamti ; atid this maj be said, id some des:ree, of the whole peninsula. ^ £yetf the inhabitants are afflicted with frequent fevers; hut strangers rarely escape. The tertian fever is the mfo^t common. In the autumn it is very difficult to aroid 4his dis- order, particularly at Akmetehet, Aktiar^ Kosiof, Biidak, and Xarasu bazar. Baktcheaerai is the most healthy situa- tion, beeause a constant current of air parses through the defile in which it is situated, and the water is exeellent.^ After returning from our excursion to Inkerman, we en- deavoured to investigate the aneient geography of the He- raoleotiak peninsula. It was a work of sdn» difficulty ; yet the materials, indeed, were ample. The ruins, as they still existed, with the assistance of Straho, and an aeearate sur* vey of the country, might be deemed safficiest for the pur- pose ; but the insumiottntable difficulties created by the bar-' Darity of the Russians were very intimidating; When they settled in the country, the remains of the city ^Chersonesus were so considerable, that all its gates were standing. These they soon demolished; and proceeding in their favotirit« employment of laying waste, they pulled down, broke, bn- jried, and destroyed whatever they could find which might serve to illustrate its former history ; blowing up its ancient foundations ; tearing open tombs $ overtlvrowine temples ; and then removing the masses of stone and m|L^leti>^k- tiar, exposed them to sale, by cubiek measure, to serve as materials in building. If the Archipelago sliould faJi un- der the dominion of Russia, the fine xemai^s of aBcieRt Greece will be no more ; Athens will be rased, and not a stone be left to mark where tlie city stood. Turks are OMin • la <K>iMeqiieBc« either of the viitft to fekisfman, or the air of Aktiar, f eaught a violent ^tertian fever, vbieh afflieted me diifm| ftU- tbe joanicy along the south coast : and I afterwards observed at ,AJiLfne.tchet, thatitiWiH BQt possible to^alk in the town without meeting persons labouring under «»milar disorfler. The pale Peruvian bark has very little effect i^n rerao- ^ngthe complaint; but the red barksooti c»res5t; and tb^^last paroxysiit is generally followed by a apaldtug eruption on the H&s. Thia aym|>U»» as an index of returning health, is always hailed by the inhabitaalB, whQ| when tliey peredve it, congratulate tlie invafid upon the spefcdy prospect of his recovery. But as tlic poor, and even no^ny of the .riah, ate^niiabte to procure the bark, these fevers often generate dn^oiieal hafaBts» andiie^ «o*»e fatal. There is not a single apothecary in the CciisftjL. Medifliw is, therefore, Kttle known, except those remedies to which the Tai-^p *aytt yeoiourW4 wWah, a4th the exception of a few herbs, consist chiefly, M4& Ml>ai?Wiwi«awki»aati.iQ «Im^ 9iq;HMlllQ^>nci(e«. ^1lUtf^f4iil^tQie>in e^]^ari»tfii With Ridssians. Aipone. otber iflierestin^aQtiqitities, which the latter had reniovea lh>m th^^ eitv of Gh^Fsanemis, was a beairtifnl bas-relief, of wbit^ fnarbii$9 exiiildliiig scnlptitTe equal in perfection to come of the moftt admired protfUctioDft of the art. It had tlosed the entnanee to^the tomb of a philosopher by the name o^Tbeageu^. Airy of the iDhabitants of Atkiar might have piireba«ed it, together with a ton-vreight besides o( othei^Monea? for « single rouble. To us the sale wa^ pro- hibited, beeaiise we were strangers; and worse than all, we^ wene EngUshmen. Ooinmddore Billing^ particularly in- Mted) that tiie eansequeitees woald be seilous if it reached ttfe ears oi the einper^ar that Engirshmen were allowed to! rewor^aBj thing^of this deseription : so the Ctppus of Thea* fmes was l^ft to its fate. As a ba^t-relief, it represented liea^oes and his wift. The drapery of these figures beautifully <llsplay^d the per^etion to which the art of seaJpture had attained among the inha1)itants, and therehj illustrated and eonfirmed the text of Pliny. "^ The philoso- nher held in his left htknd a seroll^ in tbrm and size resem- bling the flfiaiitiseripts found in Pompeii. His feet wera. boaud ID sandals. His vVife, in a Qreeian habit, wore along, robe w^ieh fell negligently in folds to the ground. 'They. b^lh appealed in the prime of Kfe, and below them ap-'. peared the foUewing iaseriptioti : OEArENHZXPHZTinNOX.KAr ' ^ " HrYKHAYTOY ^ O YARI A - MA KAPrAETaNZEI^NBXAIPE FfoBi the style of the iaseription, the late professor Por- Sf n, affiroied that the date of it might have been at least two fa«ndred years prior ta Christianity. I was afterwards eon* dooted to the sepulehre from the mouth of which tfae^ had remoyed this marble. It waa a family vaalt, hewn m the. T9«ik en. the oststde of the walls of the ancient city of Cher- aMesiis;t Withiii were recesses for the bodies oi' the dead*' Whenrit was opened, the soldiers bond tke bones still in a' * <• PrmtiMd itfMis,** Mys the hiatoriftti, epeakiiie of Herwleft Chei^' > ■BBesBSy yfMMk htA formerly born the name of Megatifie^ '*»f» !!•<•,«#- ttmUtt, cmtodiHt GracUe mtfri^M, Plin, m»t, ^at. Ub. iv." t A fine from tbe He^ubft of Eifriyide* \Bditi» /Vmanj] with the JRil- ; kmnx^ note ^,tb& «#tsir»Ju isf vmm^Sm'^fMtm Cftsrimeiiw lastei* 9i^8 •i.AKKB^S TRAVBLft » fARTAHT. state of preservation,* and thej seattered them a.iiiaw the ruins. Tfiere were many other sepulchres of the same Mud en the side of the rock in which this appeared, hewn in the same manner, and closed by a large stone. Thus, evi- dently, the custom of the Chersonesus, was to bury, and not to burii. the dead. With the single exception of the vase found at Yenikale, we observed no where in the Cri- mea either ashes, urns, or other proof of bodies eonsumed hy %e. If the reader would follow me in the tour of the Hera- eleotiek peninsula, it is necessary that he should have the maps, which I have caused to be engraved, constantly in his hand. Leaving Aktiar^ and following the coast westward, we passed the bay in which the Russian artillery is sta- tioned. Then, arriving upon the bay for the quarantine, on its western side appeared the ruins and sepulchres of a town perfectly distinct from that of Chersonesus, and which an- s^vers the situation assigned by Strabo to Eupatarinm^hmli by Diophantus. His observations state,that the promontory on which the town stood, inclining towards the eity, at the distance of fifteen stadia, formed a considerable bay, beyond which, was the Ctenus^ and that the inhabitants built a mole iieross, which united the two towns.f The remains of th« mole are yet visible, and the distance, allowing for every stadium an English furloBg,^ is preehely that which he dciferibes. A pface for the quarantine is now built upon that bay, and divioes fiupatoriom fV*om Chersonesus 5 for iuMne- of Cherronesus, altboagh in uppontion to the received textof Jdinoat e^ei;^ Greek aad Lutth author. ' *f Aldus «t Codioe« Xtp'^winv^ sed aUeram formam prsBuntibos hedam elBmuekio, rcposui. Iterum v. 33. T!ir^^iX4^a-ow<riaL, ♦ This has heen the ease in some Greeiaa sepulehrea, perfajipb eyea-of 4ikoi'e ancient dkte^ that I have seen opened. f Strab. lib. vij. p. 450. edit Oxon. 4: As; this rule is generaHy admitted, and viff be sdopted thrakiglioiil this Avork, it may be proper toinsert thp following passage, cone«roiwg the Stadium, fromCasaubon^s Comraentaiy upon Strabo, as given in the Notes to the Oxftwd edition, p. 467. « Statiinm, inqnlt Pfinius, fib. it c 93* centum w^nUquingue4M0tf*O9,eficitpafnM. Quod si est, neef^so est miliarc unum stadia efficere oeto. Plutarchus in Graoohiay p^ 8^ fsih* I. *e(Iit F. Part, t-j ^Ti /ui^jfty okt« a-raS'm o\cv ^t^rcda.: atque ^ae fft*- mensione tisi sunt PUnius, Livius, ut alibi docuimus, et Dionysius Halictf- nassensis, Hqtxe aBi. Pofybius qaoque^ libro tertio, rdLvrn^ imfiv^, 0^u$c* rurrtu hm avwjuisaifr** «»r<i rxxiioa; tKra' iftw 'P^^udUoftr^fiUKOf, TO TH£ UKRACLEOTI0K CUERSONKSUS. 3^9 {^Uately after passing the quarantine, appears the proiooii- ,tory on. which stood the eitj of Chersonesus, now covered ^y lis ruins. O.n its eastern side, helow the ancient walls («f ^ihp tovTn9,are the sepulchres of the Chersonesians, in great imniJber^ ranged in very regular order. The plain between (ilh^rsQnesus . and Eupatorlum fis also covered by ruined t|uil(Jingfi 5 and to the south of the former city, at tJie dis- tance ei* a verst behind the promontory, upon an eminence, is a^uiQulus of a size so remarkable, that it cannot, fail to attract notice. ' Immediately after passing the promantary pf Eupi^torium, tovvaids the eait^ begins the Ctenu^fOr karbouroflnkerman^ the entrance to which constitutes The Rocids ofJiktiar^ and whic}h exactly corresponds with tne ^countgivi^n by Strabo. The old wajls, both of the j^qwn of Chersonesus and of the buildings which it coa- j^iu^dj.aiTe extremely thick, b^ing in fact all of them dou- iilcf tj^at is to say, having a shell on eaeh side constructed with immense masses of stone, and the interval between the two piled with a oement containing fragments of patter j ^Bd,other coarse mate rials •> Earthenware Sjcemfd to liave b^&U in grjeat abmadance ; not only as. it was employed d^ong th^ materials for building, but because the ground )»'£^,covjered with fragment of broken vessels. Two strong t<^vvprs, one of which stood contiguous to thebay, w^ereoar tire ia 1794. . . ^^ the year.. 1794^ was .alsd foandy^al^Qat three feet beJow the surface of the soil, a large slab of white marble, con- taining an inscription so imperfectly preserved, that it is not possible to offer any tolerable copy ; but it is in the Do- rick dialect, and seems to commemorate the gratitude of a people t9 a eitiisen or magistrate for the introduction ot* vineyards. The original stone is still in the possession of admiral Wilson, at Aktiar. Froni the little harbour lying between the cities of Cher- sonesus and Eupatorium, an artificial canal, winding round ta^arda the walls 6f the former, and hewn in the rock, yet remains very entire.^ It was calculated to admit small ves- sels within the suburbs of the city. Towards the extremi- tj.it is now dcy,:althaugh the fishing-boats of the inhabit- ants still enter its mouth. " In* this ciiy ;** says Strabo,* '*'is'the temple of a virgin, a certain deirum^ from wkost 9S$Q tijte prMnotttory is named, a hundred stadia farther oti^ * Strab. Geog. tibi vii. p. 446. ed. Oxob. Gg ddO tLARKE'S TkAVEL«' IN TARTAftt. and called Parthenium ; haviti^ the fane of tlie demon, and lier imaee. Between the citj and the promontory are titree forts." Taking, thereforethis cine, aitdfoliowmg the eoaftt) tlie three harboars mentioned by Strabo will be fbund to occur very regularly; but it is not so easy to determine the particular promontorv on trhieh the stirrne and statne of the demon virgin was said to stand. As the coast hiefines towards the south, a very remarkable black ro6k advances f^om the eliff into the sea, towards thewest, petforated by a ioflty, natural arch, thrtoigh which boats itiay pass.* The singular appearance of sneh a scene might furnish a basis for superstition, and above this rock were th^ remains of a building of an oblong form, constructed ^rth very consid- erable nfasses of stone placed together without cement. Near, were also other mina, Farfter on fs a promontory stiH more striktug, to which FoTmaleoni* gives tlie name of The Promontory of Airf^entwrn termitiatmg by aperpeti' dicular precipice of very great heigbt. Tften follows the bay in which stands the monastery of St. Cieorge, in a pie^ furesqne and singular situation, so placed amons sloping rocks as to seem inaccesible. The few mmks^o reside there have formed their Kttle gardens opon terraces one above anot^ier. If there be any thing which ean strengthen Formaleoui's ophiioti, it is the circumstance of the founda- tion of a monastery and chapel so near the spot. The early Christians, in the de»troction of pagan edifices, almost always erected new buildings, sacred to their own relfgion, upon the spot, and often with the materials, of the oH. The monks of the monastery, in ^ ground behiad rtielr chapel, hail recently found a small stone column, the shaft of wbieh was seven feet eight tnebes and a half io len^h, and thirteen inches in diameter. This column, togauier with a few broken slabs of maiH[)le; and other antiquities discovered there, seem to prove, supjmsihs; Formaieoni's position of Parthenium to be correct, ihat m this sitaaticn stood the old Chersonesus, which Slrabo, aftet spealciitg 4f the netr, deseribes as in ruins, and as occurring after the promontopy.t That tbere is some reason, however, to dis- sent from the opinion maintained hy Formaleoiiiy -will ap- * Hist, Phnos. et Poh't. duCknaiii. Ha. datt»la Mer Keire, Ven. Sra 1719. " Intel* urbem «a pronfontoiiuib portas Mat tMftf sequitar .TeCitttft Chflrrwiestta, dinita." Strad, lib. ylip, 446. eek Oxen. ' TO TUS HSRAOL&OTICK OHEASONBSUS. 981 fMT IB tbe geqad ; as tliece U a pronoilorj heiween the monastery af ot» George and the harbour of Balaclava^ If hich^ independent of the tradition Qonserning it,^ Uy per- haps^ mure suited to the account Strabo has given of the fane of the demon virgin^ as well as to the terrible nature iS her rites** It will be noticed in a subsequent account of a joaraey we made afterwards along this coast, with Pro- feuor Pallas, from Balaalava to the extreme^ southwestern point of the minor peninsula of Chersonesus. The whole of this little peninsula is marked by Testiges of ancient buildings. The traces of walU cross it in so many directions^ that it is impossible to conceive the purnoies for whieh the J wore erectod. And if we take into consideration the ourioua remains at Inkerman, the ruins of the cities of EuMUtariiun and Ckersonesus, of the fortresses, and other haildings along the coaistt at Balaclava, and other parts of this aaail distriet, we shall eertidnlj not find, in any other PfM*t af Europe, so mucli to interest as well as to eonfouud the tramelier, in an eqoal extent of terrjtor^. From the mo- nastery of SL Geei^ we returned to. Aktiar, having pro- mised to spend ^he remainder of the dav with prince Y ia- s^stmskoj, who, as there were no po&t-Iiorsps, uad kindly supplied MS with lus own ; and whose attentions, daring tlie time we remained, demand our acknowledgment. Afterwards we set out again, by the common road, to Ba- laclava, with a view to examine that place* and then to tra- verse the whole coast as far as Jiliista ; which journey would comprehend not only the &iest scenery of the Crimea, but also would cpmpleteour survey of its southern coast. So • *• On tbat TnhoapitAtle sftor^'* siw^ Gibbon, speaking of the l\ncrica €htT99n£9nfy •* f^nrlfNiJes, «iiiMtMiiRg iHUi exfoititft irt tiM talcs •€ aatiiirafeft bw p)«efgd thf # oene ^ 0b« of his m04( oS^oUAg trRtt4ies. J^jfpbuf^H^inTaur.'X The UooiJy aacriiBces of Diana, the arriviu of Orestes and P^'lades, an<1 the trUimph of virtue and relij^on over savage fierce- ness, gerre to represent a histarieal truth, that the Tmuri, tfte 6riffinah 'ifruHU fhannev$^ Oy a ^raducU iuter£9yrse -with the Grecian colonies^ VfBiclt, settled elon^ the maritime coast. ^ This seems to concc<le more to allegory, than is cgmsistent irith the ancAent history of th« Greek drama ; in vhioknot so ttmali attentbn ^cras paiil to the itrict toncnr either of voeord m tt^Ck}9> It i^ unoertaio to wWk of th« heathfiu Kodd^ssea tlte demo7i virgin of Strabo may be referred. Tlie editor of the Oxford Strabo £/». 446. in JVW.} suspects that she was of Soyttuan origin. Her image was belicTed to have fallen from lieaven. Orestes carried it into Giieeee ; bat the base of the natue^ ao^erdlnf to OHd, remained. In tiie language of the Tauri, tier earliest votaries, she was caU^ Qni^KAe^ "" >berf>WBaTBAM^. EphUl. MK.:PmUli^U 332 Clarke's travels in tartaiit. mucL has been said by travclters of the famous rallej of Baidar, that the vale of Balaelava, which is hardly surpass- ed by any prospect in- the Crimea, has hitherto escaped liotieew Yet the wild, gigantick landscape, which, ton-ards its southern extremity, surrounds the town ; its mouatains; it§ ruins, and its harbour ; the houses covered by vines aod flowers, and overshadowed by the thick folia&^e of mulberry and walnut trees, make italtogetl^ enchanting. The mini at Balaclava point out the haaakion of Strabo ; whence some believe it derived its present name. Others, and per- haps with more reason, suppose the name to have bad a Genoese ori<»io ; «uid derive it from Bella Clavuy the beauti^ lul Port, its harbour is certainlj the zrMBOAnN aimhn. Forties S^mbolorum $ tlie characteristick entrance to wLieb Strabo so accurately describes.* Nothing can equal the fidelity with which he has laid down the coast of the Crimea^ a circumstance which may, perhaps, be attributed to tjbe place of his nativity, Ams^sia jf whose situation enabled him to acquire familiar knowledge^ of the shores of the Euxine. In his account of the Archipelago and Mediterraueaji, al- though, always an accurate \yrcter, he by no means evinces the same degree of preeisioii.. . Aceordi/s^ to him the port of Balaclava^ together with the Ctenus,,or harbour o^ In- kerman, constituted, by their approach, an isthmus, of forty stadia, or five miles ;^ which, with a wall, fenced in the mi- nor peninSjUla, having within it the city of Chersonesus.j The wall we Ibym} afterwards witli professor Pallas, and it^.extent agireed. very wcjll with Strabo's account. . The port of Balaclava is certainly one of the most re- markable in the. Crinoca^ From, the tovvn it appears like " one of the smallest of our northern lakes' landlocked by high preetpitOHs mouutaii^s. Though its entrance is so uarrow that ships can hardlyjBnd.a passage, yet it affords excellent anchorage and security in all weather from the dreadful storms of the Black Sea. Ships of war, of any burden, may iind si^fficient depth of water, and a safe asvlum there. The heights around it are thefi.rst objects descrihed by ves- sels in sailing from. Constantinople. But if any illfateij mariner, driven by tempests, sought a shelter in the port of Balaclava, during^ the reign of Paul, he was speedily • Ka) jMT Mltiiv, xtfm TtmirtzfXtit, Et post hauc portasai>gusto.i»t«>it«^« Strab, lib. yn p. 446. ed. Oxotu * t Strab. lib, >ii. p. 446. ed. Oxoa. to THZ UURlyhZOnCK 0HEASON£SUS. 3d^ driven out again, or sunk by an enemy as inhospitable as the wind or the waves. The inhabitants had small pieees of artillery stationed on the heights, with the most positive orders, from that insane tvrant, to fire at any vessel who 9hoald presume to take refuge there. The town is at pre- sent eolotttzed by Greeks from the Morea: a set of daring pirates, to whom the plaee was assigned by the lateeranress^ for the serviees thev rendered in her last war with the Turks. We found the inhabitants* of Misitra, Corinth, of the isles of Cephalonia, Zante, &e. living without any mixture of Tar- tars or Russians, according to the manners and customs of their own country. We were treated by them as I had rea- son to think we should be, with every degree of politeness and hospitality. The paroxysms of the ^ver I had caught in the bad air of Inkerman, perhaps increased by constant fatigue of mind and bodv, might have induced many a worthy landlord to have denied me admission to his house, through ' fear of communicating the plagu6 to his family; but the brave Spartan Feodosiaj* with whom we lodged at Balac- lava, not only received me, but attended me with all th^ solieitude of a Samaritan* We arrived by moonlight : hia house was beautifully situated upon a rock near the harbour. The variety of different nations which are found in the Crimea, each livingas if in a country of its own, practising its peculiar customs, and preserving its religious rites, is one of the circumstances which renders the peninsula interest- ing to a «tranger. At Baktcheserai, Tartars and Turks; upon Che rocks above them, a colony of Karaite Jews; at Balaclava a hord of Greeks; an army of Russians at Akmetchet ; in other towns, Anatolians and Armenians ; iq tlie sfepp^s, Nagays, Gipsies, andCalmucks; so that in a very small district of territory, as in a mena^rie, very op- posite specimens of living curiesitiea are siiM^ularly eon- trasted. Nor is it only with a view to its natural history that the traveller finds ample source of instruction; hi» Mtention is continually diverted from such considerations by the antiquities of the country. At Balaclava, they offered fur sale several Greek coins of uncommon beauty and rarity; the most remarkable were of silver. I shall only ♦A corrupt mode of ppooounoing 3%?odb«a as Theodore i« often ftoi lujUDoed Feodare and Theodorick.Feodoricki Federick and Frederick^ thm ve jb^ye tlie nngolar <leiiiJVtion of Fredmck from Theodore, SS-if OXARKfi's TRAVELS IW TARtART. mention those in the margin which, if not unique, are the least known.* On the heights above the mouth of the port, are the ru- ins of a magnifieent fortress, built by the Genoese when they possessed this harbour. The arms of Genoa are up- on the walls. 'Vht mountain on the northeast side is cov- ercd by its mouldering towers, and the rock itself has been excavated so as to exhibit stately magazines andehamberg, the sides of which wxre lined with coloured stneeo. It is surprising the inhabitants of Balaclava do not use these caves ; for they are very habitable, and the stueeo is still in the highest preservation. We entered one, which was a spacious oblong chamber lined 'throughout with stueeo, aud somewhat resembling the famous Piscina miraMte^ near the supposed villa of Lucullus, at Baia, in Italy. We could form no conjecture for what purpose this place was intended, except as a granary or storeroom; it bore n© marks of any aqueous deposit upon its sides, and was at the same time dry and in perfect preservation 5 therefore it could not have served as a reservoir for water. The raountaiiis, which surround the port, are of red and while marble, full of cracks and Assures; but calculated for ample quarries, if worked' beyond the surface. The shore is in soitie parts covered by a fine glittering sand^ the par- ticles of which consist wholly of gold-coloured miea, in a state of extreme division ; making the most beautiful writing sand (hat can be used ; a^nd as it may be obtained in any quan- tityjwould answer very well as an article of commerce.l here has been nothing of the kind yet sold by stationers, which can be compared with the sand of Balaclava; for when scattered over fresh writing it produces an effect as if the • They were as foHow : A silver medal of Heraclea, PR«ciPin NiTo- Kis, to use the express words of Pliny concerning the city to which it heloMged. Heraclea was, according; to that author, the nameoftheChcr- ftonesian city ; and this medal exhibits on one side a bearded head of Hercules, coTered by the lion's skin, and ontbe other within an indented square, the word HPAKAF.] A, with the letters AAM. A second of PHOcis,of similar size and workmanship, having on each side a bull's face, and for The reverse the head of Apollo, with the letters *OKI.. A third in silrer, and ot the same size, I .believe,, of Elis. It has on one side an Eagle's head, and for reverse a thunderbolt. The fourth is of still smaHer .size, and of the same metal ; to me unknown. It has on one side a scorpion, and on the other, within an indented square, a dolphin. The Mihy and tas^ which I shall mention here, was a bronze medal oiRhoeme- $alce3 king of Bosporus, having in front the regalia sent from Rome for his coronation, with the legend BAXIAEilX POIMi^HTAAKOT, aii&'fO€ reverse the letters Mil in a wreath of teureh TO Tfi£ HISRAaiiEdTieK CRERSOMXS0S. 981^ ink, h&il beeir eoTerefl with minute aeales of polished gold, \yliich it will retain for any number of years. The appearance of so mneh mica mi^ht induce an opin- h>n, that a foandation of rocks of a formation anteriof to those which surround the port, eannot be very remote ; but there is no part of the world where j^olo^ical phenomena are so extraordinary. Pallas often confessed, that in all his travels he had never met with similar appearances.* It is impossible to eonjeeture the depth at which the prim- itive foandation of granite lies; there are no traces of any such substance ; not even among tfie pebbles on the coast. The strata of the Crimea have been formed by a process so inexplicable, that no attention to their position will afford matter for any regular svstemattck arrangement. Advanc- ing from the isthmus of rerecop, towards the chain of moun- tains which line all the southern coast, the great northern plain of the peninsula, consisting of a soft, calcareous de- posit, by an alternate series of depressed surfaces contin- ually sinks towards the south. Almost all the principal elevations of the globe rise from the east, and ^all towards tho west. The declivities of the Crimea, and the precip- itous sides of its mountains, are all opposed to the south. Perhaps a familiar exposition of these geological features may be afforded, by saying that the perceptible elevations of the peninsula, visible even in- its plains, resemble, by their alteruate order, the teeth of a saw. *' The. small, tract which he published at Petersburgh id 1796, aod -uhich he extracted from the journal of his travels in the Crimea in 1794, has been befbre noticed. It is so extremely rare, that the reader will per- haps be gi*atified by the insertion of a short extract concerning the singu- Ur pheoomeua displayed in the geology of the peninsula. <* Hans un pays qui a des montagnes si elev^cs, qne quelqe part la neige et la glace s'y con- servent pendant tout I'ete, qui d'ailleurs est isole par la mer, on devroit, selon les loix geu^rales de la nature, s'attendre k trouver lea trois ordrea de montagnes : lesprinUttvea granitiqaes pour centre d*el6vation ; les schis- teuses aecondairea ; etles fer^iatr^f k couches horizontales, rael^esde pet- rifactio'hs ; ou bien. comme en Sicile, un noyau ou centre volcaTd^tie et les couches s^condaires et tertiaires sur les contours. Mais en Taunde il n'existe ni Fun ni 1' autre de ces arrangements observes dans tous let autres pays de mofitagne. L*on ne voit, dans I'escarpement maritime de toute la haute chaioe des Alpes de la Tauride rien que des couches s^con- daires dn dernier oi-dre, inclin^es srur Hiorizon i. un angle xilus ou moins approchant oelui de 45 degr^s et presque toutes plus ou moins paraU^le» pios^es d'ans une , direction qui varie entre le sud-ouest et le nord-ouest. Toutes ces couches sont done couple par la direction de la c6te, et on le Toit toutes ddecoiivert sur I'escarpement maritjraedes montagnes, comme kafimlleta d'lm Uvrc <nt ha hmes d*tme MbHotMoue," Tab. de,la Tfx»t* aM OLiAXS's T&AVSU( IS TARTAKT. Toward! the south, iU kiyliest moQntaiiis are all broluit olT abruptly, as if bj the sinkioe of the maiii bed ia die depths of the Black Sea, Towaras the north, a tertiary deposit of ealeareous matter^filled with the remains of shells, extends beyond the Isthmus, even to the Dnieper. Thus the exterionr, or npper strata, of the peninsula, eonsist of eal- eareoos matter, of very reeent formation, in which there b nothing otherwise remarkable, than the proof they afford by the remains of marine bodies 4>f the draining^ of the waters from the great plain of Tartary ; a subject we shiUl not now further discuss. But the wonder is, that where mountains hare attained an elevation of above twelve hundred feet, ao traee, either of primitive granite, or as a leader to it, of any regular schistose deposit should appear. Beneath these enormous, calcareous masses, pillars, if they may be sa tailed, of marble, trap, elay, common limestone, and cbis- ttts, make their appearance in parallel and almost verfcieal veins, propping up the superincumbent strata. Pallas for- eibly illustrates their position by observing, that they stand like books upon the shelf of a library.* These veins alter* Bate with each other $ and although they are somewhat in- elined, leaning from northwest towards the southeast, yet their position, in certain instanees, is nearly vertieal. These extraordinary phenomena mav be discerned all along the southwestern coast ; and that the depth to which they extend is very great, is evident from the marble monntaios of Balaclava, whose precipitous elevation from the sea be- speaks a corresponding depth below the water. When the veins of clay are washed away by the sea, either vast chasms are left, or the neighbourins^ veins fall in ; as it happened upon the south coast at I^tehuelcoy^ not long ago, when a whole village was buried, which the late em«* press rebuilt at her own expense. In the clay is sometimes veined slate, and often blocks of wood, so impregnated with bitumen, that it burns like coal. The coast of Balaclava io entirely of marble ; more towards the northwest, a« at the monastery of Bt. George, it consists of black slate ; further on, the other substances occur, in the order and position al- ready described. To the north of the' coast these veins arc covered by eakerous matter, extremely full of the remaina tf organized bodies. The extraneons fossils of the Crimea are very curious ; many of them relate to animals now na* ^kmwm. Of these may be mentioned the La^mmnuUariuS^ f dee the note to p. 331. TO THE HZRACLEOTICK eHERSONESUS. ^B'r \ ... ^iHcb ii* very pommoxi here, and rare every where else. It is foQiMl about, the pyramids of Egypt^and in some parts of France* The streets of Balaclava, I have reason to believe, are exaetJy the sarae now as they were in very ancient times. They resemble what Pompeii «vouId be, if it was a^ain in- habited according to its ancient form. The prineipsa street of Balaclava is as narrow a« that which has been exposed at Pompeii, and paved in the same manner; only the mate- rials are variegated red and white marble instead of lava, and their appearance proves that the marble of Balaclava, is susceptible of a very high polish. The shops are also like those of Pompeii, and the inhabitants all of them Greeks. Their uniform adherence to the ancient costume of their country, though a Httle theatrical, supported the illusion* They wore helmets; but these being made of green, and red morocco, and not a little greasy with nse, . mi^ht be said to serve rather for a caricature, than a por- trait of their progenitors. Their market of fruit is a very good one; particularly for, melons. I. went into one of their melon shops, which contained about two thousand water melons,, piled in a regular square mass, selling foF ten copeeljcs the dozen ; less than a halfpenny each. The wa- teir melon of tlie, Oriineadoes not attain half the size in which . it Is seen at Naples ; , bjut the fiayour is nearly as fine. At Cherson, whieh is more to the north, it grows as large as in Italy. . Vines eover the porticoes of all the doors in Bala- eluFa; and so rapid is the growth of that nlant, that, in two yearsy if they told ns truth, a y4ne yielded two bushels of grape?. They have no foreign commerce. The rest of their shops were appropriated to the sale of the few necessaries which the inhabitants require j who seem to lead a very ♦ ' Str»bo nctioed thra fottil at the ^^albiflB of Egypt, and -we itftentrtkHs fiDWul it tber* i».TttcUj as by hiin.<les6rU>e^. He supposed it to have b^en formed of the lentils petrified, which was RJven as food to the uorkroen employed in building the ^lyramifls. Palias ftas attempted to account for its origin hy an opinion which is entirely h» own. ** I cannot, on this oc- casion, omit to express my opinion respecting a fossiT, the origin of which has not hitherto heeu explored. As its external shells have ^ no orifice ■whatever, arid may easily be separated from each other, while its internal ' cellular texture, consisting of annular divisions, and thin l«t(*ral scales, has not tlie least resembtonce to the abode of a testaeeoua animal, but rather tsi the inner structure of a cuttle fishbone ; I am induced to eonjceture that the lenticular stones have originated in the shell or bone of a peculiar f;regarious, species of Doris, or Sepia, which formerly inhabited the deep, las, in pi-ocess of time, been mixed with the calcareous mire depiosited bj^ ; the sea, and thus at length become completely extinct ; so that we possess »o account gfit^ living state." TrtPbeUyVol Ii: p. 21. idle life, smokiog, taking coffee, etutwiogtabaeco or opLaor^ Uunging* about the streets, or playine at chess er at draughts in the coffee-houses, or before the doors of their houses. We observed a game here which was quite uewto as; the Greeks called it Mingala ^ and I have since seen it at Constantinople. It is played with a boar^ having two rows of parallel partitions, into each of which was placed a oer- tain number of small shells, such as the aatives of Guinea tisefor raonev.* We found it necessary to leave our carrlac^ at Balaclava b order to visit the eeiebrated valley of Baidart the pas- sage to which is performed on horseback, over high moun- tains, covered with wood to their snmniits, and, onthatae^ eonnt, having more of the Appenine than the Alpine eha- raeter. Those which skirt the eoast, and which we sbaU ]pre8ently describe, ean be eempared ta neither. CHAPTER XXI. mOM THE HERACLEOTICK CHERSONESTUS, AtOKG THE SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. I^ttlle^ ofBaiduT — Bmxaitiek hakits and Mtrmers &t the , Tartars — PiassageoftheMerdvem^'IRUGkuekc^'^Aam^ and Mnerals — Tne Crin^MetoBon—^ltmfka^ — O^er Filiages on the Coast — Catmtry betrveen Kutchncko^and Sudaek-r-Vestiges of the Genoese Language — 'Rains &fa Greek Monastery — Mountain Mjnaagh'^^Farte^nU-'^ JUmta-^TeheHraagh^ or Mong Tr^.j^tzus-^Skunuv^Fo- 9iHmi af^ Crimean Mmntains — Derykeu^ — Mt^momd Saitan — Rettim to Jicmetehet^'^-Marriage Ceremom of the Gretk Chwch'-^Jeunsh Wedding^-^^Uttary i^ce afthe Crimea — S«varof. THERE if no part of the Crimea which has attiraeted the notice of precedii^ travellers so much as tlie Yal* ley of Baidar. It has been Seieribed uader tim pompovs ti- tles of tho Taurick ^readioj and Crimean Tsmpeyf with * The Cffprsfafaonetaxd^taxmmoM. t 3«e Travels ©f Lwly Cravea, Mrs. Maria Guthrie, &ik iiHieh warmtb (»f fancy, and, as might be expected, with ftbme fftllacT of representation. If any attempt is iiere made to dispel the illnsron thus excited, it^ is because those who come after may tot meet with disappointment. " Even the ▼ales of Caucasus,^ says Pallas,* <* far surpass this eele*' brated spot.'' It will not admit (^ a comparison with many of the beautiful scenes in Switzerland, nor even with those in Norway and Sweden. A very extenstTc, cnltivated plain, snrronnded by high mottutains, may be considered as one of ^ose pleasing prospects which call to mind the descrip- ^idn giren by Johnson of his Abyssinian Yale ; ' bot being without water as an ornament, must be deemed deficient in ia principal object belonging to picturesque scenery. The valley itself, abstracting the consideration of the raountainn around, jnay be compared io many parts of Britain, parti- ealarly the rales of Kent and Surry. • It is rather mor« than ten miles in length, and six in lireadth ; so beautifully enltiYated, that the eye roams over meadows, woods, and rich eornfield^, enclosed and intersected by green hedges and ^rden plantations.! The villages are neat, and the inhabitants healthy. Protected from violent winds, and irrigated by dear 'streams which fall from the hills im- perceptibly through the fields, it seemed a happy retreat ; and our ride through it was very pleasing. The mode of enclosure, and the manner of cultivation, resembled those * Trare^ in the South of Soatk, irol. n. p. 155. -f This fiinumt Talley belongs to adteursl Mardvinof ; bat bis possession vas oonteated vhen ve were there, aod the rests were puid to |[0Terb« went in deposit. Many of the Rassian proprietors of the Crimea were in the same eondition, owiii|^to the foliowing eireumstances, as they vere ^presented to me by a yoan^ man, named the Count de Bochfort, who was nefdiew lo thedake of Richlieu. Under the terronrs of eonquest, the .Tiotar proprietors made little opposition to the grants \rhieh w«re made of ihelr lands ; but now that they are again in some measure restored to their rights, Sneh as did not ooroe properly undei^ the description of eteir granta have comm£fioed processes to obtain a reveraon of their forfeitures^ vhich was a very unexpeeted blow to their masten. The Russians, sinee the conquest, have established their abonuaahle code of slavery ; but not on ao riad a footing asiniheh* own oountry-. Two days aweek, we under^ •stood from Fallas, is all the woftk a Tartar is obliged to do jpHztia for his lord ; and the Russians complain heavily of then: idleness. The fbohA^ taxneers are almost all either entirely freeholders, or on the footing of the raeants of the crown. The number 0f Russian residents in the Crimea reduced greatly. Some have taken alarm at &e tenure of their hinds ; others have sustamed great losses by their slaves running awa;^^ some df vdiom are received and concealed by the Kuban Cossacks ; which, howe- vev, ia now pre«cnted by the duke oC Bsofaiieft'* gofemmei^ which in- cludes the whole couUiT'iip to Caucasus and the Casplao/' Aimr'a Jf6. Jtfumal 349 CLAKKE's travels in TAkTAIiy. uged IB ear own eountry. The mountains, as well as the plain, were thick set with oak, wild near, crab, and car- netian eherry trees, whose foliage shaaed the road, andpre- teeted us from the scorching raj's of the sun, which dart with uneommon force into this valley. Our lodging at night, and our meals by day, were entirely among '1 artars, and this circumstance gave us an opportunity of seeing; the domeslick habits of that people. When a stranger arrives, they conduct him into the apartment destined for the men, and present him with a basin, water, and a clean napkin, to wash his hands. Then they place before him whatever . their dwelling^affords of curd, cream, honey in the Bomb, poached eggs, roasted fowls, or fruit. Alter the meal is over, the basin and water are brought in as before 5 because all the Tartars, like the Turks and other oriental nations, eat with their fingers, and use no forks. Then, if in the house of a rich Tartar, a long pipe is presented, with a tube of cherry-tree wood, tipped with amber or ivory. Af- .ter this, carpets aad cushions are laid for the guests, that they may repose. All the houses of the Tartars, even the cottages of the poor, are extremely clean, being often white- washed. The floor is generally of ear/h ; but smooth, firm, dry, and covered witli mats and carpets. The meanest Tar- tar possesses a double dwellings one for himself and his guests, and the other for his women. They do not allow their most intimate friends to enter the place allotted for the female part of the family. With so much cleanliness we were quite surprised to find the itch a very prevalent disorder ; especially among the poor. It was also diffieult to escape the attacks of venomous insects and vermin. The tarantula, scorpion, cockroach, different kinds of lice, hugs, fleas, flies, and ants, more or less incommoded us wherever we rested ; and we found it was necessary to reconcile our- selves to the appearance, every now and then, of a few large toads crawling near bur beds. With all these ioeiin- veniences, we nevertheless deemed the change from a Rus- sian palace to a Tartar cottage very desirable. In the houses of Russian grandees, of whatever rank or station, unwholesome filth is ill concealed by external splendour: but the floor and the walls of a Tartar's residence, be it but a cottage, are white and clean. Even the place in which his fire burns is unsullied by smoke j and if the traveller is properly cautioned to avoid the contact of woollen dotkes and «arpei«, he may consider hi niselfseoife. ALONG TBB eOAST OF THE «RIUSA. B4i Jl farourite bererage of sour milk mixed with water, the yottrrt of the Turjts, is found in reouest with the Tar- tars as among the Laplanders. They all shaye thtir heads, both yoan^ and old ; and wear in their houses a sort of skullcap, over whieh, in winter, is placed a large and lof- tier helmet of wool ; or, during summer, a turban. Their legs in winter are swathed in cloth bandages, like those Worn throughout Russia, and their feet covered by the kind of sandal heretofore described. In summer, both legs and feet are naked. Their shirts, like those in Turkey, &r^ wide and loose at the sleeves, hanging down below the ends of their fingers. If they have occasion to ose their hands, either to eat or to work, they east back the sleeve of the shirt upon the shoulder, and leave the arm bare. The jacket or waistcoat is generally of silk and cotton ; and the trowsers, being made very lai-ge, fall, and loose, though bound tight below the knee, fall over in thick folds upon the calf of the leg. In the waistcoat is a small pocket, just below the breast, in which the steel and flint are kept for lighting their pipes. Sometimes in summer they coverlh^ feet by morocco slippers, but these are al- ways taken off* when they enter their apartments. Upon similar oqeasions we took off our boots, which was a ^oablesome ceremony.; but they were . evidently uneasy if we sat^down without attending to this point of etiquette. They have no ehairs in their houses ; a single stool may be observed, about three inches high, for the purpose of supporting a tray during their meals. This stool is often ornamented, either by carved work, or inlaid mother-of pearl. The use of a carpet aud matting for the floor is universal; sometimes, as a substitute, they. employ thick elotbs of their own manufacture from goat's hair, and these are exported to Constantinople. Of whatever ma- terial the covering of the floor may be, they use great oaifls to keep it clean, notwihstauding it is apt to swarm with vermin. During the summer months, the men make ▼ery little use of that part of the dwelling whieh is pecu- liarly set apart for them. Their chief delight consists in^ the open air ; sleeping at night either beneath th^ shed be- fore their door, or itnder the shade of the line spreading trees which they cultivate near their houses. In the prin- eipal chamber of a Tartar dwelling, there is a particular part which bears the name of Soplw, This is a platform raised twelve inches from the floor, oeonpying one entire U h 34i& eLA&KE's TRAVELS IN TARTART. sidle of tlie apartment, not for the purpose of a seat, bot as a place for their household chests,' the Dii domestiei^ and heaps of carpets, mats, eushions^aad clothes. The same customs may be. observed in the tents of the Calmueks. Thoufl^h simplicity is a prevailing characteristick both in the manners and dress of the Tartars, yet some of their customs betray a taste for finery. Their pillows are covered with coloured linen ; and the napkins, for their frequent ablutions, which hang nnon their walls, are embroidered and fringed. If one of tneir guests falls asleep, though but for a few minutes, and by accident, during the day, they bring him water to wash himself as soon as they percieve he is awake. In their diet they make great use of honey 3 and their mode of keeping and taking Mes accords with the usual simplicity of their lives. From the trunks of young trees, about six inches in diameter, they form eylinders, by scooping out almost all except the bark ; and then, closing their extremities with plasterer mud, they place themselves horizontally piled one upon another in the gardens for hives. They often opened these cylinders to give us fresh honey $ and the bees were detached, merely by being held over a piece of burning paper, without any aid of sulphur. The honey of the Crimea is of a very superiour quality; the bees, as in Greece, feeding on blossoms of the wild thyme of the mountains, and such flowers as the country sponta- neously affords. Every Tartar cottage has its garden, in the cultivation of which the owner finds his principal amusement. Vegetation is so rapid, that in two years. ^ I have stated in the lacoount of Balaclava, vines not only shoot up so as to form a shade before the doors, but are ae- tualiy laden with fruit. They delight to have their houses, as it were, buried in foliage. These, consisting only of one story, with low, flat roofs, beneath trees which spread im- mense branches quite over them, constitute villages, which, at a distance, are onlv known by the tufted grove in which they lie concealed. When the traveller arrives, not a buiCi^ ing is to be seen ; it is only after passing between the trees, tand beneath I heir branches, that he begins to percieve tht^ Cottages overshadowed by an exuberant vegetation of the walnut, the mulberry, the vine, the fig, the olive, the pome- granate, the peach, the apricot, the plum, the cherry, and the tall black poplar ; all of which, intermingling their clustering produce, form the most beautiful and fragrant canopies that can be imagined. ALOKO TH£1 COAST OF THE CRIMEA. U4B In e^tj Tartar h6ttge they preserve one or more copieji '^t the Kdran ; these are always in manugeripty and c^nerally wfitlert in very beautiful characters. Their children are early tan^ht not only ta read, but to copy them. Tho size of the capj or bonnet, is all that distinguishes the priests of the different viHages from the rest of the community; being made much larger for them, and rising to a greater height fhotn the head. The horsfes of the country, though not equal to tho'se of Ctrcassia, are remarkable for their high breed, as welt as for their beauty and swiftness. They are small iand very surefooted ; but rather stouter than the Circassian l^orses, which niay be considered the fleetest and most bean- tiful race of coursers in the world. If travellers be provided with an order from the governour of the district, the Tar- tars must provide horses, lodging, and even provisions, gra- tis. We had this order, and hope it will ever be supei^oons in Englishmen to add, that no use was made of the privilege 'annexed to its possession ; a n^ode of conduct perfectly con- sistent with the ordinary course of English customs and opinions, but diametrically opposite to those of Russia; where it is considered a Teflection upon the understanding to bestow a thoiight^upen remuneration, nnless it is a matter of compulsion. To avoid the intense heat in the middle of the day, we tiegan our journey towards the coast on Tuesday the fifth ; of August, at five o'clock in the morning. Leaving the val- iey of Baiidar, we ascended the mountains which close it in towards the south 5 and by dint of absolute climbing among rocks and trees, through a very Alpine pass, at last attained the heights above the sea. Here the desisent began towards the coast ; and a prospect opened of vastness and terrour, Hvhieh possessed the boldest sources of the snbiime. Naked rbek^ rose perpendicular to such an amas&ing elevation, that even the^ wide sea, which seemed in another world below, and dashed its waves against their bases,^ was unheard at the immense distance, and appeared insignificant compared with the grandeur to which it was opposed. Between two of their craggy summits, we were conducted to the Merdveefif isignifyingsfairs in the Tartar language: the steps of which, in ages past all record, were cut in the natural rock. Here, alighting from our horses, and committing them to the chance of their own caution, we began a laborious and dif- ficult descent. There is a pass of this nature, but less pre- sipitousy in the island of Caprea, near Naples. It leads 9M OLARKB's TRAYSLS IK TA&TAAT. from tbaiown of Caprea to Anaeaprea; bat horses Are not seen here. The only beasts of burden are assosj and thoao are generally laden with faggots. In the Alps there are si* milar scenes, but not of greater boldness; and they hav4$ not the addition of the sea in the perspective. After we had oompleted the passage of the nt^rareen, being still at a great heis;iit above the sea, we eontinned to skirt the bases of rocks towards the east, until we reached the village of Kutchuckoy $ which hangs upon a lofty declivity below the great southern range of perpendicular precipices. Thf oubtful path to this village is so narrow and dangerous that with any other than a Tartar horse few would venture ; and even so provided, it is often necessary to alight and walk. The plants and mi^rais of the south of the Crimea m«rit particular attention. \y ith regard to the former, a catalogue of all the vegetable productions collected by us, whether ia this interesting tract, or in other parts of our journey in thf peninsula, has been reserved for the appendix;* being mueb too numerous even for a marginal annotation. Appropriated fiolely to the botanical history of the Crimea, it may there serve as a comnendious Flora Tauriea^ fbr the use of ether travellers; ana will not interfere with the pernsal whioh readers, not interested in such subjects, may bestow upon the narative of these travels. At the same time if oppor;- tunity offers to notice any plant which has not hitherto been described, it may foe mentioned in the text without super- fluous intrusion. With a very slight knowledge of botany., we possessed, however, the advantage, not only of guidance in our researches, but of every aid and contribution which the labour and liberality of our friend Pallas could afford. The principal spontaneous vegetable production of Uie rocks and mountains upon the south coast, is the wild si^e ; aud this, as in the islands of the Archipelago, grows to a very great size ; becoming, in some instances, almost eonsiderabis enough to rank as a shrub. Both the yellow and the red centaury were very common. The black date-tree, the pomC'* grauate, the olive, and the fig-tree, flourished along the coast as in the soutli of Italy. The rocks and strata, near the village of Kutchuekoy, are composed of schistus, highly impregnated with iron ; and in proportion as this metal is more or less combined with aluminous rocks, their tendeney • See Appendix, No. V* AreNO THS CeAST OF TH» CRtMBA. S46 to deeomposition^ by the action of the atmosphere in the oxidation ef the metai, mil be obserired to exist in a ii^reater or less degree. It maj be considered a matter of doubt, whether the prismatiek config^oration and fracture of trap, haifalt, and certain other homogeneous deposits, althou^h^ evidently the riesult of a tendency towards crystallization/ be not owing to the iron whieh enters into their composition, li^herever the oxide of iron is Aiund as a prominent feature in mineral bodies, will also be observed veins, fissures, and separations of the substance; and vice versa ^ if the external figure of the mass in«.fttminous rocks be evidently prismat- iek, there is reason to apprehend the presence of this metal in more than^usual proportion. These observations may, perhaps, deserve the consideration of more scientiilek geol- ogists ^ atid, in addition to the facts neeessary for their con- firmatien, it shoKld be mentioned, that the phenomena of the Giant's Causeway, on the north coast of Ireland 5 «f the pillars of Trap, at Hallebergand Hunneberg^ in Sweden ; aa well as at the Lake BoUenna, in Italy, and many other places, are only-regular in their prismatiek forms where they have been long exposed to the action of the atmosphere. Whenever a eonsi&rable part of the exteriour surface has been thrown down, the interiour of the mass presents only an incipient appearanee of similar decomposition. The supposed transitions, or pcLssages, as they are call- ed by some Freiieh, and many Danish mineralogists, from one mineral species to another, might meet with the sem- blaaee-of authority. upon this coast; sosensibie is the ap- parest boundary between ttluminous and siliceous bodies in certain examples; such, for instance, as the transition front yellow, indurated elay to jasper, and fr^n schistus to horn-stone. In the museum at Troiiijem, in the north of Norway, they exhibit what they call a passage from carbonated lime to silex 5 and in Copenhagen, entire col- leetions have been formed of sucli appearances. The Nor* wegian specimen is nothing more than a flint, part of which has undergone a very high degree of decomposition, simi- lar to those found in the neighbourhood of Paris, called • Of which a m«re convincing proot can hardly he offered, than that the Siberian emerald, whose coioaririg principle is ii'on, and whose raatrix abounds in iron oxide, not- only pre^rves the hexagonal form eommoa to the pillars of the Giant's Causeway, but, when fresh ilug, exhibits also the sasne remarkable aiteruate convex and toncave horizontal fissvrefi* See jPaiPin. MiiU ^V«^ des, Min. torn. 11. j&. 2a. JPar, Jtn, 9. ,Hh:i 34>6 claukk's TRA\'SLS im ta&taet. Pierre Ugere, and quartz nectiqtte, Tbe French frequent* ]j exhibitad similar appearances in the same erroneous point oY view. The abbe Hauy* has most happily refuted the vuisrar notion of transitions in the mineral kingdom ; in* vo)vin<? t^e science in a labyrinth of passages whieh lead to i»o(f»ii!e:. Soon after the oaptnre of the Crimea, precisely at the time of terrible earthquakes in Hunsary and Transylvania, a larare portion of the immense cliff ahove the village of Kutchiickoy fell down and buried it. The late empress caused the place to be restored at her own expense, indem- nifyint^ the inhabitants at the same time for the losses they had sustained. From this village to Aloupka, still proceeding by a nar- row, undulating, and devious track among the rocks, at a considerable elevation above the sea, we enjoyed a prospect of the boldest scenery whieh can be found in the Crimea* Immediately before us we beheld the stupendous Crii^-m6« topon, mentioned by Strabo, and other ancient geographers; this projecting into the bosom of the deep, together with the opposite promontory of Carambe, upon the coast of Paphlagonia, divides the Black Sea into two parts ; ao that vessels sailing between the two capes can discern the land on either side. The ancient anonymous geographer, whose -writings were chiefly extracted from Arrian and Scjmnus Chius, says, that Iphigenia, carried from Aulis, came to this country.t Frocopius4 speaking of the Taurica Cher- sonesus, also mentions the temple of Diana, where Iphi- genia, daughter of Agamemnon, was priestess; and ac- cording to him, the Tauri were her votaries. Itis worthy of note, as we shall soon show, that apromontory and vil- lage bearing at this day the name of ParUienit^ evidently corrupted from Farthenium^ is found to tlie eastward of th^ Criii-metopon, in the vicinity of Aloupka. Thus, while Strabo ana Ovid plaee the promontory of Partheniam in tH« Heracleotiek Chersonesus, other circumstances seem to fix its situation near the most southern point of the Cri- mea ; and should this be admitted, it would only assign, as in the history of other popular superstitions, adifferenee •f locality to the same rites. Leueate, in the Ionian Sea- • traite de Mineralogie, torn. IDt. p. 242, Par. 1801. t Gcog. Antiq, ed. Gronov. L. Bat. 1697. p. 14*. ^ Procop. de Bell. Goth. lib. iv. o. 5, Aleif* TM« fOAST Of THK f miUBA« 3^ is not' the only promontorj which hag been eelebrated for the story of the Lover^s Leap, As we advanced, the wide nrospeet of the Blaek Seaex* tended below on our right. Upon our left, towering to the eloudg, arid sometimes eapped by them, appeared lofty, naked preeipiees; now projecting in vast prnmontories, now -reeeding, and forming bayi, surrounded by eraggy roeks, whose sloping sides resemble those mighty theatres of ancient Qreece, prepared more by nature than by the art of man.* The upper strata of these mountains, not- withstanding their prodigious elevation, are all of lime* ■tone. Not a single fragment of granite is any where to be seen. Beneatli the precipices, and extending to the wa- ter's edge, appears a bold and broken decliTity, eorered by villages, gardens, woods, and cultivated spots. Laurels floarishedm several places ; and these were formerly more ahondant : but the Tartars separated in this paradise from all commnniaation with the other inhabitants of the Cri- ^mea, believing that strangers came only to see those trees, and dreading a notoriety of their retreat, endeavour to de- stroy them wherever they appeared. In the eTsning we arrived at Aloupka. The inhabitants flocked to visit us, and, as if determined to oontradict the story of the laurels, overwhelmed us with hospitality. Bach person that entered our little chamber deposited his offering; either of fresh filberts, walnuts, mulberries, figs> pears, or other fruit. •* Brandy," they said, *' they aould not offer us; for abstaining from the use of it, is not kept in their houses." They are less addicted to opium than the Turks, and therefore less slothful : yet they deem it their greatest happiness to sit still, to smoke, or to sleep having nothing whereon to think, and as little as possible to do. They sow only as much corn as may be necessary for their own consumption. Their pipes and their horses are, perhaps objects of as great affection as their wives. "We generally found them stretched on the flat roofs of their cottages, lying upon thick mats, beneath the shade of their favourite trees, either asleep, or inhaling the fumes of to- basco. The business of harvest had, however, roused some of them into a state of activity. As we continued ourjour- * The ancient theatrei of Greece sometimes eoniisted of an enth*e nonntalQ, to the natural form of which the seats were adjusted. Of this description is the theatre at tlie temple of J&sculapius, ia Epidauria ; al Teimesdus, in the gulpb oC Cilaaeai; «nd at Chs^erouea, in Bteotia. 34d OLA&KE^S TRAVELS IK TAUT ART. nej, we found them oeeapicd is eolleelia,^ it. Thejhea out their corn as soon as it is gathered ; and their mode may rather be called trampling than thrashing. Al^ter seleet- ing an eren^ spot of graund, they fix a pole or stake into the earthy placing the eorn in a circle round it, so aB to form a eiroumference of about eight or nine jards in diam- eter. They then attach a horse by a long cord to the polo and continue driving him round and round upon the com, until the cord is wound upon the pole ; after this, tiirniag his head in an opposite direction, he is again set going, un- til the cord is untwisted. By this process, they do not fiui to obtain the whole of the corn clean from the sheaf; but the straw is destroyed. The chaff is afterwards collected and carefully housed for fodder. They carry in ^\ their corn upon horses ; but their manner of reaping and mow- ing exactly resembles ours : and their hedges and gates are made in the same way. The village of Aloupka is beautifully situated near the shore ; but entirely concealed from the view in approaching it, by groves of fruit-trees. The scenery every where along the coast is of a nature which it is difficult to de&cribe by any eomparison. Such fertility and rural beauty is, 1 believe, no where else situatt d equally near the waters of any sea, nor environed by objects of such excessive gran- deur. The descent towards the shore is so steep and rapid, that it seems as if the villages, with their groves and gar- dens, might one day, by heavy rains, be swept into the deep ; at the same time, impending cliffs above them men- ace fearful ruin by the fall of rocks, which every now and then give way, and whose enormous fragments have occa- sionally halted where they appear every instant ready to rush forward. High above ail are the lofty and rug- ged summits of those mountains which giv;e such a decia*- ed character to the southern coast of the Crimea, thai no geographer has neglected to notice them. Strabo forci- bly describes their situation and nature. ''^ If by some tre- mendous earthquake, or the effect of sudden thaw, a por* tion of these cliffs has been separated from its native bed, and rushing into the Black Sea, has formed a promontory^ or towering bulwark, in the midst of the waves, its sum* • Strab. lib, vU. p. 446. ed. Oxori. «' But from this p«rt of the Syraholi [Balaclava] unto the city jof The- odosia {^Caffa] extends the raaVitime Taurioaii district, about one tiiou- •aud stadia in leugth, craggy aad moantaiuouf, sad t^emiog wilh ftormK' ' AX«NQ THE eOASV OV THB eRlM£A» t^ tis^t is almost invariably covered by some ancient forlrest^ the ruins of wkieh still remain in places almost inaeeessi* ble. Those works are for the most part attribttted to the Genoese ; yet some of them are of Grecian origin. Th« bardihood and enterprise with which they were erected, can* not fail to astonish the traveller, as there seems to be no emiqenee nor precipice too lofty or too dangerous for tha people by wham they we>re constructed. On Wednesday, August the sixth, we left Aloupka; andf after journeying entirely in groves, wh»re mulberry -trees shading aar road^ presented at the same time the largest and most delicious fruit, arrived at the village of Musgkor* Here we found a few Greeks, established as part of a cor^ don to ^ttard the soutbem part of the peninsula, who wer« busied m distilling brandy from mulberries ; a weak but pa<> latabl« spirit,^ as clear as water. The scenery rather im- S roved in beauty, and became yet bolder than before, as wf rew near to a place called Derykeuuy inhabited by a small Greek colony, close to the shore. We found them employ*' ed in shipping timber of a very bad quality for Budadc^ and other por4s lying to the eastward* Upon the beacV were some hulks of Turkish vessels, quite rotten ; yet in such harks they venture across the Black Sea to Constanti- nople, although, as oiir interpreter observed, << it would ba inaisereet to risk, by their conveyance, the safety even of ^ letter." Their wretched condition proved that the frequent shipwrecks in the Black Sea, are owing in great mea&tti9 to their vessels not being sea-worthy. If there exists on eartn a spot which may be described a# a terrestrial paradise^ it is that which intervenes between K&reliikckoy and Sudack,on the south coast of the Crimea. $ Protected by encircling Alps from every cold and blighting wind, and only open to those breezes which are wafted across * " MTutchiik-koiis A y'lWvige on tte roost southern point of the Crimea; and is so called to distinguish it from another Xjoi, Deryk-koi which stands on the hitl above ^/alm Near Deryk^kO'i is the fountain represented in my drawing ; it lies in the highway between Niidka BArftnand Deryk.Koi, Hialta» a xniserahle village of Greeks, witli a small Greek chnrch, lies to the left; and beyond Dcryk-koi, in the way which branches off to Baktch* eserai, is a village of Russians, belonging,' I believe, to admiral Moi«dvinof. ■" I ■ Above Kutchuk-koi, the rocks become much more perpendicular and naked ; and if this be the Criti-mj^topon, the nai;ne may have beea derived from their high and bold forehead. It is evident fro© Strabo, that this famous promontory was eastward of the Iv/m^oxeev xiutff which, I suppose, is Baladava, and therefore w^ have onlvKutGhuk-kQiStodAyoa* daghto cliCM)se between." He^er^^ MS, JoumctC, the sea from the south, the inhabitaDts enjoy every advantagv of climate and situation. From the mountains, continual streams of crystal water pour down upon their ^rdens, in which every species of fruit known in the rest of Europe, and many that are not, attain the highest nerfeetion. Nei- ther unwholesome exhalations, nor ehillina^ winds^ nor venomous insects, nor poisonous reptiles, nor hostiie neigh- hours, infest their blissful territory. The life of its inhab- itants resembles that of the golden age. The soil, like a hot bed, rapidly pufs forth such a variety of spontaneous produce, that labour becomes merely an amusing exercise. Peace and plenty crown their board ; while the repose they so much admire is only interrupted by harmless "thunder reverberating in the rocks above them$ or by the murmur of waves upon the beaeh below. At Deryk^uy the Tartar children were assembled in the school of the village, learning to read. The eldest boy led the way ; pronouncing the lesson distinctly in a loud tone, from a manuscript copy of the Koran. The rest, to the number of twenty, were squatted in the Tartar mode upon little low benches, accompanying with their voices, and keeping time by nodding their heads. It was amusing to observe the readiness with which their little president detected any of them in an errour, in the midst of all the noise they made, although reading himself with the utmost effort of his lungs. In the south of the Crimea, the remains of the Genoese language are not quite extinct* Now and then an expression escapes even from the lips of a Tartar, which may evidently be referred to that people. During their long residence in the Crimea, they not only introduced many of their own terms to the native language of the peninsula, but they also incorporated many Tartar and Greek expressions with the Italian, which may still be observed in ujse among the inhabitants of Genoa. I col- ' leeted several examples of this nature, and professor Pal« ■ las added to the list. As he has alre&dy alluded to the subject in his late work,* it will be unnecessary to men- i tion more than two or three instances. In the Tartar lan- guage, ICardasch signifies a brother, or bosom friend; ' and the word Cardascia is now used with the same inter- | pretation at Genoa. Macrame^ a towel, in Tartar, is Mi' i crami in the Genoese. Barba^ uncle, in Tartar, is exi | actly go pronounced, and with the same significatJon in | J Tr*T«b, Tfa.U. p. 95r. I ALOKO TH£ II OAST 09 THE tRlllEl. Mi Genoa* Again, Man^j to eat, among the Genoese, 19 also Ma^i^a with the Tartars; Savun^ soap, is Sabun in the Crimea; Fortunna, a sea storm, i^or^una ; with many others, in which the affinity is less striking. The most remarkable instance is, that Bariy which signifies a cask or barrel, in Genoa, is pronounced by the Tartars baril / so as to bring it very near to our £nglish name for the same thing. The Tartars, moreover, "call a barber, 6er- her; which they may have derived from the Genoese^ word harbe^ I have already mentioned the swarms of locusts, which, from causes quite unknown, have visited the Cri* mea of late years in very unusual and extraordinary nuih- hers. These have proved ' destructive to all the vine- yards of the new settlers ; but as the Tartars only cultivate the vine for the pleasure of eating its fruit, they disregard the visitation, which proves so mournful a scourge to the natives of other countries who have establishments upon the coast. Soon after leaving Deryk^ay, we arrived at the ruin •f an old monastery, most delightfully situated on the side of the mountains which slope towards the Sea, with a rapid rivulet of the purest crystal water running close to its walls. All that now remains of the orig|inal b«ildin^ is a small ehapel, containing images of the saints, in alfresco paintings, upon stucco, although nearly effaced. Here my unfortunate friend and predecessor in the journey, the late Mr. Tweddell, of Trinity College, Cambridge, now buried in the Temple of Theseus, at Athens, had left the tributary offering of his Athenian muse to the genius of thf^ place, in some verses written with a pencil, aud the addition of his name upon the stucco. Amoug the trees, at the time we arrived, were the po* megranate in full bloom, the spreading mulberry, the ^^ild vine, creeping over oaks, maples, aJMl carnelian cherry trees, and principally the tall, black poplar, which, e\ ery where towering amon^ the rocks above the shrubs, added greatly to the dignity and graceful elegance of the scene.* * ** The forests in this tract are not of a very lofty growth ; firs, however, and some oaks are founds aud magnificent valnut. trees. The Tartars, in the spring, when the sap is rismg, pieixe the walnut trees, and put in a spiggot for some time. When this is withdrawn, a clear siveet fiquor flows out, which, when coagulated, they use as sugar. In different places we saw a few cypress trees growing in the hurial Grounds; they ^ ere pointed out to us as rarities, and bivught from Stamboul. On the M9I eLAaSE's TRAVELS IN TARTARt. The teKaiD fever, which I had caught among &^ eH- rerns of lAkerman, had rendered me so weak after leatins this beantiful spot, that it was with the greatest diffieulty I coold sit upon my horse ; and one of its violent paroxysms eoming on afterwards at Ycurzuf^ I remained for some time extended upon the bare earth in the principal street of the village. Its peaceful and hospitable inhabitants re- garded me as a victim of the plague, and, of course, were prevented from offering the succour they would otherwise gladly have bestowed. My companions were far advanced upon the Journey ; fori had fallen insensible in the rear of our party; and they believed me employed in colleetiog plants. When they returned towards eveniifg, in search of me, our interpreter prevailed on an old woman to allow Us a miserable hovel for the night's accommodation: and having also besjs^ed a small piece of opium in the village, I was soon rendei^ed insensible of the misery and wretched- ness of my situation. Yourzuf, called Vourzova^ by the llussiaiis, 19 {he ixorzubitdi of Procipius, The fortress which he describo^ as built by Justinian, still remains, thokigh in ruins, uppn the high roeks above the beautiful little bay #f the town. Being unable to continue my journey on horseback, I en* gaged with the master of a Turkish boat laden with timber, and bound to 8ufiacl(, for a passage to Alusia. Mr. Cripps, with the rest of our party, continued the tour of the coast as before. As soon as our vessel had cleared tlie bay of Yourzuf, I obiierved an immense promontory towards the east, which it was necessary for us to double; and having done this, we discerned the whole coast eastward, as far as Sudaek,* which place the mariners pointed out for me as then within view, although barely visible. The lofty pro- fiiontory we had passed is called by the Tartars the Moun- tain JUjridaih. Mr. Crip|>s's route on shore led directly Over it; and he observed upon the top the remains of an ancient monastery, which may have stood on the site of one of those temples dedioated to the Taurican Diana, as the village to w Inch he descended immediately afterwards still retains, in the name Partemk^ or Fartenit; an evident pIwDs at>ove the seacoast are some fine olive trees. Ix)mh«rdf po|)lan abound every where, aud are .very beautiful." Jfeber^s JklS. Journal. ' * Th'- urig^inal name of this place seeras preserved in the Periplos of ScjLxOan-anden8i8,in the word KVAAJA, Vid. p. 71. cd. Gronov. h. cat IS97. yossios reads KTTAIA. J ALONG THE COAST OF THE G&IMEA. 303 etymology of Parthenium, A few years aij;o,four columns two of green and two others of white marble, were found lying on the site of the monastery and among its ruins.* Frince Potemkin sent away two of them to decorate a ci.urch then building in or near Cherson. When Mr. Cripps arri- ved^ he found only one column remaining, whicn was of w]iite marble, near twelve feel in length, and eighteen in- ches in diameter. Stretching out somewhat farther from tlie shore, we had a fine view, east and west, of the whole coast of the Crimea, from the Criu-metopon to Sudacrk. Mr. Cripps, being on the heights, enjoyed a prospect still more extensive, and observed our little bark like a^peck upon the waves. He halted during the heat of the day, according to the usual custom observed by the Tartars in travelling, at a place called Lambaty the Lampast of the ancients ; and in the evening, a little before sunset, arrived at Alusta, as our boat wn» coming to an anchor off the shore. From this place we had a fine view of the mountain Tche- dirdagh^ the Trapezus of Strabo, whose lofty summit ap- peared above a range of clouds which veiled all the lower part Its perpendicular height does not exceed 1300 feet;^ but it rises so rapidly from the coast about Alusta, that its seeming altitude is much greater. Almost all the Crimea may be seen from its summit in clear weather. The Tartars affirm, that a greatextent of country beyond the isthmus of Perecop may be discerned from this mountain. There is no- * The monasteiy was dedicated to St. Constantine and St. Helen. See J*allas*s Travels, vol. II. p, 179. f^' LAmbatis situated amidst some of the grandest scenery in the Crimea ; having Chatyr Uagon the rig;lit, and in front a beautiful promontory called AyouUag, orBear JlilL This is connected witli tlie ra»»ge oi Chatyr Dag -'hy a rocky istlimus coTcred with wood, ami is itself a penjusula ; reserabii.ig, though on a grander scale, Orme's Hea<l in Caernar%x>nshu*e. Atthefof>t of the isthmus, in a heaatifuJ wood of wahiut-trees stands Partenak, a . ^village with a good harbour for small vessels formed by a high, rocky island. Here we fouml a'.i old Tartar, who was in great practice as a boat-builder, find had^, with hisowu hand, and the assistance of his two sons just finished a beaatiful schooner, of thirty tons, for a mevchai)t at Kaffa Tlw- usual Tes8eisofthc,couutryai'elrke the Turkish, with lateen sails, and high pro .va and poops, vr-ry much curved. I was so inuch struck with A>oud:.gli, that I eould not h Jp fajcying Uiat it was the CritL-meiopfMi oi^-^ti^ho A steep joid nanow path le«<l8 ovt- r the neck of the niomauiu from Part* nak. From the summit we sh'a , as we fancied^ and asthe Tariarsassur •< s tiie -whole way from Kutchuk-koi to the Bosph^rus. The peopU of i^r.ajbat complained tUi«t they were not allowed to cut douu nov sclltht i. timber. I never coi'.id learu the reason of this restriction. In the neighbourhood «f Aktiar not even a shrub had been left for miles.'* Hthet^s M<^. Journal. + Palliis States it as about 1200 feet. See Travels^ voL 11.^. IU3. I i d54 eXA-RKE'S TRAVALS IN rAATARtt thing to interrupt the view as far as bmnaii TisioneaApoj*^ sibly extend ; sinee tlie whole district to the north i^ as flat as the rest of the great oriental plain. The village of Alttsta was once a place of considerable iaiportanee, and still exhibits some marks of its ancient conseqnenee. The ruins of the citadel, which, according to Procopius^ was erected by Justinian, together with the fortress of Yourzuf) are still seen upon the heights contiguous to the sea*^ Three of its towers remain, and a stone wall, twelve feet in heieht, and near seven feet in thickness. At present, the plaee consists only of a few Tartar huts ; and in one of these we passed the night |. having observed nothing remarkable, except a very small breed of buffaloes, the females ol* w hieh were little larger than our market calves. At AInstat we terminated our journey along the coasts * *< Somewhere between Sudak and Lambat [^Lampas'] is a -roek; believed, from its fancied resemblance to a ship,- to have, been a vessel which, with its crew, was turned into stone," OBbei^i MS. JourneL t In order to avoid separating Mr. Heber's journal into ^ greater number of short, unconnected notes than may be neeessarj for its 'uaer- tion iti the margin, I ha(ve reserved the result of his observations, duriog the whole of his journey from Tainan to Aluita, to be introduced bere at one view. From Taman he proceeded across the Straits to Kertdij; or, as he perhaps more properly writqs It, Kerch ; and from ihence to Caffii and Stara Crim { where he turned ^ to visit professor Farias at Sadaek. His route along the sooth coast of the Crimea was made Jn a direetioa opposite toours^ and will be the more interestingi as it includes that part ot it which we did not examine. . . , "On the 22d of April we found we had exhausted all th^ curiosities of Taman, and determined to proceed directly to Kertch,- and wait for our cariiage at Kafta. We were induced to take this step by undcretandiDg that Ycnical6 offered nothing remarkable either in antiquities or situation, and by our d^fsire to give as much time as possible to Kaffa. The regular feri7-boat was4hen at Yenicale, and the wind directlv contrary. For this boat onr carriage was obliged to wait ; we ourselves obtained a fi8hiD|-bMt from the point nearest Kertch. From Phaoagoria to this point is reekoaed twelve versts : it is a long, narrow spit of sand, evidently of recent forma* tion, and marked, in Guthrie's map, as an island. Even where this ter* mi nates, is a «inge of sand reaching like a bar acrbss almost half the Bosphorus, and hardly covered with water, which bidafeir, in time, com- pletely to block up the navigation. An immense quantity of sea fowl are seen on every part of the Straits. The prospect is perfectly naked and desert ; on One aide tike bare downs and lona; sand Kossas of Tamau, aod on the other a bleak and rocky coast, without verdure or inhabitants; and the miserable fishermen, who ro'^ed us over, were a very fit group for sucli a scene. From the Kossa, where we embarked, to Kertch, is reek- oned twelve versts. Immediately opposite is a roand» diaUow bay, where was a hut in which the fishermen occasionally slept Behind the northera point of this bay opens a much larger; where a few miserable hooaes, a amallcUu-ch, and a jetty of piles, point out Kertch. The most coan»c"- ou» obje«t is a conical, green hill, either entirely or in part airtificWi «» ALONG THE OOAST OF THE CRIMEA. M^ and on Friday mornings AligUst the etghtli, set out, by a route across the Tehetirdagh, for Aktnetebet. We rode some time in the dale of Alusta, a delightful valley, full of apple, pear, plmm, and pomegranate trees, with vineyards the top of whkh is a seat and a flagstaff. The Russian oflScer, who took OS there, fancied it was erected in honour of Mithridates. or some of his family. The shore ia very sheWiti^ and shallow ; and we nadthe greatest ^ffioulty to get ottr boat within a reasonable distance of the land. The oommaBdaut of Kertch, a Creoi<gian by birth, told us that many places had bee^ given for a harbour and quarantine at this place ; but the present scheme of making Kaffa the emporium, would probably prevent them. Immediately on laadiog> we were accosted hy a Russian priest with tl>e salutation "Hgu^os dnTrn, We had before observed, that the Cossacks used at this season to salute foreigners in Greek. The town of Kertch is very small and miserable ; it is chiefl}' inhabited by Jews. Thereis One tolera- hie watchmaker and two shops in the Bazar, where we saw some EngUsh •Q^ton stttFTs. The conntry around is all bare of trees, and their firerwood k brought from the neighbourhood of Eski-Krim^ a distance of perhaps 120 versts. There is a spacious fortress, and a garrisou of a lieutenant- «olonel) a major, and four companies of light infantry^ The men were ^stinguished by wearing no swords, whiehmost Russian soldiers do; the non-commissioned officers carried rifles. I had made sOme drawings and memoranda of the antiquities, which I have lost, but whieli differed in no material point from the aeisount published by Pallas. The most interesting are in the wall of the church. It is, perhaps, worth mentioning, as iUus- tratire of national character, that the Rossiaii major» who agreed to fur- cidi ns with horses and an open kibitka to KaflTa* m»sted on such usuriaus terms^that the other officers cried out shame, and that the same man sifterwards squeesed some further presents ont of Thornton's servi^it. A Cossack would hare disdained such conduict. *< We left Kertch on the twenty third* From thence the road winds among swampy, uncultivated Savannahs, having generally a range of low hilli to the south, and the sea of AsopK at some distance to &e north. These pkons are cover'ed with immense multitudes of bustards,, eranes, and Jtorks. I saw no pcHcans alter landing in Eui'ope. I never saw an English bustard ; btit those of tl»e Crimea appeared u> be a stouter bird thain what is generally represented in prints. There ai^e many ruins in this ]|^t of the counti'y, and other vestiges of population. We passed two or three small, but sofid and well hmlt, bridges over rivulets, which ap« peared to be of Mohammedan workmanship ;: and tliere were many tombs diaiin^uislted by the tmban. The number of barrows near Kertch is anrpnsingi We passed two villages, still standing, and recognised at once the eroteifqtke dresses of the Nagay herdsmen represented by Pallas. At night we reached another village sometime after dark, and, after a furious battle with the dogs, obtained a lodging. I have forgotten tU name. The next day we found several patches of cultivation, and the countrr improving, though still full of ruins* On our rij^ht hand Uy the sea of Asbph, and on our left the Black Sea was now visible. A ruinous mosque ■was before us. We found, on inquiry, that our driver had mistaken his way; that we ha<l passed the turn to Kaffa, and ^ere in the road ta Karasubazar.^ Kafl& now lay on our left hand, and presents a most dismal prospect as -it is approached on the side. There is a striking ruiu on the northeast poifit of tlie bay, which vas foi»merly a mintj and the wa*ls and towei*s, though dismantled, are very fine. The tower rises like a theatre iroxa the watcr^t edge, and is of «on»ilerable e^Lt^ent, bnt almost entirely 95% glarke's travels in tartar y. and olive-grounds ; and, beginning to ascend the nH>untaii], arrived at the village of Shuma, Here the Tartars brought for our breakfast that enormous kind of cucumber before mentioned, the seed of which, since brought to Eng^laud, ruinous. Oh tlie land side it is defended by a high wall, witli loop holes and battlements ; the loop holes coraraijnicate with a sort of gallery, and are contrived in the thickness of the wall with large internal arches, which give it the appearance of an aqueduct. These arches support the upper walk and |>ai*apet. The towers are semicircular On one of thero, in which is a gateway, are many shields with armorial bearings, not much defaced, which ascertain the Genoese to 'have been its founders. There »re some noble Mohammedan baths entire, but now converted into ware^ houses ; many ruined mosques ; and one which . is still in good orcJejTt though little used. There are also the remains of several buildings which, by their form and position east and west, appear to have been chnrch^i?. Turkish. and Armenian inscriptions abound; but 1 could find, in several days' search, ho vesU^e which I cotild rely on as having betttnged to tho' ancient Theodosia. tSee p. 398, and Note] The northwest quarter of the town is peopied .by Kavaite Jews^ and the narrow bazar, nearest Ui6 vater, swarms with those of Europe. These are the two most populous - parts of the totj'u. . There are some Armenians, but not exceeding thiety families, and hardly any Tartars. The remainder of the population coa* sists of the garrison, five or six Italian and German merchants (no Frendi Mhen we were there) and some miserable French and Swabian^emigrants. GeneraKFansbaw has constructed a very goodtfuay : and by puUing^tJown some ruinous baildii^, and a part of the wall, has made a good cut from the north, which he has planted with trees. They were building a- very large and convenient place of quarantine. I could find no aqueduct; nor did there appear any need of one, as there are many beautiful springs bursting out of different paits of, the. hip:her town, which, excepting (he northeast <iuai'ter, where the Karaites live, is entirely waste and ruhMRig, The springs have all been carefully preserved in cisterns, some of tbem ornamented and arched over, with Tuikish inscriptions ; and one of them in particular, which is near the southwest angle of the wall^, is a delight^ ful bath, though sraail^ being surrounded by picturesque ruins, and over- hung with ivy and brushwood. The ruins of Kaif«t,are mostly of freestone ; the greater part of the houses were, I understood, of mud .and iJ{4>aked bricks ; but of these hardly any traces are left. None of those Still stand- ing have flat roofs, but are all tiled/with very projecting caves, and in the same style of architecture as the palace at fifjitchiserai. The best of these udjoin to the quay, and ai*e inhabited by the merchants. Ther^ are a few buildings lately .erected, one a tavern, by a French emigrant; and another a house intended for the governour Fansbaw. All these are of shght tim- ber flames covered with plaster. ** Kaffa was called by the Tartars, in its better days, Kutchack Stam- boul (^Little Constantinople.^ I often asked different persons what its former population was ; particularly an old Italian, \yho ha<l been interpret ter to the khans ; but the answers I obtained were riot such as I eould credit. Yet he and the Tartar peasants were in the saiae story, tliat it had formerly consisted of sixteen thousand houses. All the Tartars attribu« ted its desolation to the calamities brought on it by the Russian garrison, who tore off the rOofs of the houses, where they were quartered, for fire wood. I was told by a Swabian settler, that wood was chiefly brougiit from Old Krira, and was very dear. The winters he CDmpl«uncd of as very cold. Corn is very dear, and comes ekiefly from the Don. Animal AtONG THE COAST OF THE CRIMEA. 357 has not thrived in onr eoontrj. The fruit is as white ag snow, and, notwithstanding the prodigious size and length to which it attains, has all the erispness and fresh flavour peculiar to a young eucumben It would become a valuable plant for the pool", if we could contrive to naturalize it* This, and other sorts of the same ve^table, together with a variety of me- lons, and the dueurbita pepo^ or pumpkin, cover the borders of a> Tartar garden. The custom of boiling, for their meals, the tendrils and young fruit of the pumpkin, is common not only in the Crimea, but over all the Turkish empire. We were often treated with this vegetable, and found it very palatable. Ibod is- net to plentifut as I should have sapposed. A young man, vfho vfts employed to buy stores for Mr. Eaton, the contractor, stated the price of beef in the market of Kaffa, to be ten or fifteen copeeks the pound, or sometimes more, and Uie supply irregular. About three miles from JLaffii is a small village of German colonists^ -who y/ere very poor and despon- ding; the noxxiher mip;ht be twelve families, who were tlien on their farms, the rest having gone into service or to sea. General Fanshaw, to whom we had a letter, was at Peter8burgh,.so that I am unable to give so good an ao«ount of Kafik as if I had the means of deriving information from him. His object was to estftbltsh a bank at Kaffa, and finally to arrange the in* tereourse with the Don, b)r way of Arabat. The merchants of Kafik, were, as usual, excessively sanguine, ftnd confident of the success of their scheme ; and we heard a direct contrary story to the one we were taught at Tagan- roek. We could not learn whether Arabat had a safe harbour> the road from ELaffa thUher is level, and, if necessary, a rail road might be put u)> at no S^eat expense, as it would come hy water from Lugan. The bay of Kana is rather exposed to tlie southeast ; but we were assured they hadvery seldom high winds from that quarter, and that accidents had been never known to happen; A small vessel, of the kind wliich Bustia fitted out in numbers during the Turkish war, with one mast ahd a vast lateen, sail, was Ipng in the harbour, to take a Scotchman, named Mac- master^ to Immeratta, where, and at Trebizond, he was to act as a sort of ($onsQ] to an association which had just opened a trade there. At Kafia we obtained an order from the government for horses from the Tartar villages at the rate of two copeeks a verst, per horse. The order was in Turkish^ the date was explained to us, < from our healthy city of Kafi^a ;' whid), X conclude, was its ancient distinction. The colder, or constable, of eaeh village is named * Ombaska;' but 1 write the Tartar words from ear only. The road is not interesting till after you have past Old Krim ; though there is a gradual improvement in the cultivation. Old Krim, we were told, is so called, because the Tartars believe it to have been the andent oapital of the peninsula. It is now a village of fifty houses at most, inhabited entirelv by Armenians ; but the Mohammedan ruins are extennve ; there are three mosques, and what appears to- have been a bath.^ The neighbouring peasants are all Tartars; ** In the first stage towards Sudak, a building presents itself on the left hand^ in a beautiful situation among woods, on the side of a steep hill which our Tartar guide said had been an Armenian convent. We con* versed with the Tartars by an interpreter whom we hii<ed at Kaffa ; he wa» R Polish Jewy but had resided several yean at CoD«t)intiiiop]e« Xo-> w % 358 glaukb's travels in tartahy. The very weak state of my health would not allow rot to ascend the summit of the Tcihetirdacjh ; but. Mr. Crippa left me at Shuma for that purpose.^ The road I followed conducted me along the western side of the mountain, ^imI, after all, at no great distance from its top; as my compan- ion having gained the highest point, called to me and was distinctly heard. He collected some rare plants; and eonilfmed, by his own observation, what has been be- fore related concerning the mountains of the Crimea. They skirt only the southern coast of the peninsula, beginning at Caffa, and extending as far as Balaclava. Tl^ town of Akmetchet appearecl to him as immediately beneath his Tiew ; and towards the north; the whole territory exhibit- ed an uninterrupted plain. On the west^ the chain of moun- thlng couUI be more interesting, and to us novel, tlian the prospect and appearance pf every one we met ; a mirza, or noble, one of the few who still remain m the country, overtook us, and I was delighted, at being ad- dressed forthefii^t time, by the oriental salam^ by which we were after- wards saluted by all the passengers. In this part of the country I only saw one camel, a she one, and kept for her milk: the roads are too steep and rocky for them. ' T\\e common cart had two wheels, and was drawfi by two oxen abreast, like a curricle ; it was light, but spacious. Th« is only seen as far as Sudak, afterwards, the hills are too steep. for any wheel carriage. "We passed a day with Dr. Pallas at Sudak, who asked jntjcli about Messrs. Clarke and Cripps. The beauty of this celebrated Taljey yather disappointed us, except as far as the viueyardsare concerned, ^li*" are more extensive and finer than any we saw besides. Dr. P. said^ that the wine made by the Tartars was spoiled by the over irrigation of tneir vineyards, which hicreased the size of the grapes, but in hired their fla- vour. The wine we tasted was all poor and hungry. Sudak, or, as it i»jas explained to me. The Hill of the Foimtain, is a small village, peopled by a lew families of Greeks, with a very small and insecure harbour. Th« «astle, which is ruinous, stands on a high, insulated rock on the east of t»e town 1 and at the foot is a beautiful spring preserved in a large cistern ; witUa metal cup chained to it. I suppose thhisUie harbour mejitioned by Arrumja^ possessed by Scythian pirates, between Theodosia and Lampat. There IS a small but handsome mosque "still entire in the castle. I saw notlung which could be referred to a higtier antiquity than the (Genoese, nor ajy thhig which I could i^ly on as even so old as their erections. It is o™; after Sudak that the real mountaineer features and habits *PP^*^' ''**jj^j' I« the v^e of Oluz, or Sudak, very few of the cottages are flat rowea, and all the better soi't of farm-houses are tiled. . «' At Kaya, the next stage, and from thence to Baydar, the ^oildi^ have flat roofs, except the mosques, which are tiled, generally vith p«^' ble ends, and surrounded by a wooden portico. This distinction "*^^^^ the roofs of private and pubUc buildings is mentioned by Aristopbaoes* existing in Athens. - c»yyt4^ *9 ti^c^ outio-m T«f;c yAg u/ud'v cttdAs i§i-^ojuw nP02 AETON. Egv/9. The houses are generally pUed up one aboT^ ajaother, half under grottui* ALONG THE COAST OF THE 0&ISC15A. 301^ tain§ seemed to terminate at Bakteheserai ; so that a g^o- i^rapbieai line may be traced for the map of the Crimea, from Caffa to Stara Crim; thenee, south of Karasubazar on ' to Afemetcliet, and to Bakteheserai^ To the north of this line the whole territory, not only of the Crioiea, bat beyond the isthmas, over all the Ukraine, is one vast steppe^ eonsigtins; of a calcareous deposit, con- taining; the remains of marine animals. All the high- er parts of the Tehetirdagh exhibit a mass of lime- stone .yery compact, and of a gray colour. Pallas says, that upon friction it is slic^htly feti<I, a character I neglect- ed to. not ice. The niountain^ probably received its ancient name of Trapezus from th - tabIe*form of its summit. Its lower district is covered by groves impenetrable to the raytf of the sun; where the only blossom seen decking the soli was the Colchicum autumnaky or common meadow-saffron. Through these groves 1 continued to skirt the whole of its western side until I came out upon a spacious table of na- ked limestone towards the north ; immediately under afright- ful precipice of the same nature, on the top of which I eould plainly discern my companion with his guides. From, this spot I was sufliciently elevated to look down upon the summits of almost all the neighbouring^ mountains, which appieared below me, covered with wood; and in the ferrile valleys between them was abundance of corn and pasture lands. So fertile are those valleys, that after descending into them, single ears of wild barley, and wild rye, are seen growing in all situations. About two hours of eon- tinual descent brought me from this spot to the village of Derykeiiy, to which place professor Pallas had sent his carriage in order to conduct us once more to his comforta- ble and most hospitable mansion in Akmetchet. About two miles from Derykeiiy, a Turkish nobleman, at- a villager, called, I believe on account of his resi- dence, Mahmoud Sultan^ sent to request that we won id visit his house upon the banks of the Salgir. He along the sides of hills; they are composed of clay, and the Tillages resem- ble raWit warrens. Irrigation is practised universally, and with apparent skill, where the vineyards are planted. Very little corn is grown , but the valleys are literally woods of fruit trees. Water is abundant ; and' near many of the best wells seats of earth are made, and bowls left for the wayfaring men to drink. There are wolves and foxes, and of course the other game is not very plentiful ; but there are hares, and a few partridgcss. Between Lambat and Aliusckta is the way to ascend Chatyr Dag, which we missed seehig by the Wonder of our Jewish interpreter." Hcbeft MS. Journal* ^ , 360 tfLARKE's TRAVELS IH TARtARY* •ame out to meet us', attended bj his dragoman and otber menials, as Turks always are, and invited us te retuni with him and drink coffee. Every thin^ about his dwell- ing, whieh stood in the midst of ^rdens, had an m of peace and repose. A martin had built its nest within bis ehamber, ana he had made holes in the window for it to pass in seareh of food for its young. This practice is not bo- common in the cottages of the Tartars, vi^ho consider saeh a visit from the martin a ikvourable amen. I have als^ since observed the same superstition in many parts of Tar- key ; and it is needless todeseribe its prevalence amonetb^ lower order of people in England.* Upon the tombs^otb of Tarks and Armenians are often seen two little cavities, iirhieh the relations of the deceased have scooped ja the stone, and continually supply with water f considering it to be of good omen for departed friends, that birds shoaW come and drink upon their graves. Such Armenian tomb- stones, beautifully wrought, in white marble, and covered with inscriptions, may now be almost classed among tbe antiquities of the Crimea. They bear very remote dates; and, like others seen in Turkey, express, by certain sym- bolsy the former occupation of those whose memorials they bear. Thus, for a money-changer, they express in earred work the sort of shovel used by bankers ; for a tailor, a pair of shears ; or for a gardener, a spade. We arrived at Akmetchet as professor Pallas was pre- paring to celebrate the marriage of his daughter, ft*^®^' inff to the rites of the Greek church, with baron WimftWt, a Hungarian general in the Russian service. The weddins took place on the following day, Saturday, August the 9tft after a superb dinner. We accompanied the parties to churcn* At the door they were met by the priest; the general was asked, if he was already related to the lady by any **^. ® blood, on his answering in the negative, the siCmc ^**^V^^ was again put to the intended bride, and was answered • This caimot be more forcibly iUustrated than with refereDce ^^^^ derived by Shakspeare from our most ancient chrooideSj ana pi**^ ia hia trag^y of Macbeth : This gaest of summer. The temple-hauntitig martlet) does approve. By his lov'd mansionry, that the hearns bre«th Smells wooiogly here : no jutty, frieze, batti'esii Kor coigne or vantage, but this bird hath made His pendent bed, and pracr^ant cradle. VlThercthey Most breed and hftwili I liikw obwrv'd, the »ir . . ff^ ladeUoate." Mac^t^^' ALONG THE OOAST OF TH£ CRIMEA. 851 tJie same way. They were then asked, whether the en- ga^meBt they were about to form was voluntary on their part ; and havina; answered tn the aflirmative, were per- mitted to eo<er afew paees within the church. A bible and crucifix were then placed before them, and lari^e lighted wax tapers, decorated with ribands, in their hands ; after certain prayers had been read, and the ring put upon the bride's -finger, the floor was covered by a piece of scarlet satin, and a table was placed before them with the commu- nion vessels. The priest having tied their hands together with bands of the same coloured satin, and placed achiq)- let of flowers upon their heads, administered the sacrament; and afterwards led them, thus bound together, three times round the communion-table, followed by the bride's fkther and the bride-maid. During this ceremony the choristers chanted a hymn ; and after it was concluded, a scene of general kissing took pl^ce among all present, and the par- ties returned to the house of the bride's father; here tea and other refreshments were served to all who came to con- gratulate the married couple. s We remained a month at Akmetchet before my health was again established; during this time I had an opportu- nity of seeing so remarkable a ceremony at a Jew's wedding, that a short account af it will, perhaps, be thought not out of place at the conclusion of this chapter. For two or three days prior to the wedding, all the neigh- bours arid friends of the betrothed couple assembled toge- ther, to testify their joy by the most tumultuous rioting, dancing, and feasting. On the day of marriage, the girl accompanied by the priest and her relations, was led blind- folded to the river Salgir, which flowed at the bottom of a small valley in front of professor Pallas's house ; here she was undressed by women who were stark naked, and, desti- tute of any other covering except the handkerchief by which her eyes were concealed, was plunged three times in the river. After this,* being again dressed, she was led, blind- folded as before, to the house of her parents, accompanied by all her friends, who were singing, dancing, and perfor- ming musick before her. In the evening her intended hus- band was brought to her, but, as long as the feast continued she remained with her eyes bound. The garrison of Akmetchet paraded every morning from seven o^Iock untiften ; but troops in a worse state of disci- pliue, or more unfit for service^ were^ perhaps^ never %%&k. ZM OLARKE's TR4VBL8 IN TARTART. The whole military force of the Crimea amounted, at this time, to fifteen thousand men, of whieh number fifteen hun- dred were in garri$oii at Akmetehet. There were seven complete regiments in the peninsula, besides two companies of invalids, and a Greek battalion at Balaelava. At Pere- eop there was a garrison of invalids; and garrisons were also established at Yenikale. Kertchy, Caffa, Karasubazar, Akmetehet, Baktekeserai, Koslof, and Aktiar, where there were two regiments. Yet, notwithstanding the reputed rigour of the emperour, his attention to the midutiee of discipline, and his passion for military pursuits, a system of somnolency and stupidity existed in all poblick affairs, which rendered the force -of the Russian empire a mere puppet show. It was punch with all his family ; or a herd of swine in armour, who endured hard blows, kicks, and eanes, with perfect patience, but were incapable of activity or effect. Such was the disposition of the guard along the ooast, and such the nature of the country, that an army might have been landed and marched up to the sentinels at Akmetehet before they were observed. Detested as the Russians are by every description of inhabitant in the Cri- mea, their expulsion from the peninsula, if it had pleased Great Britain to restore it to the Turks, would have been a work of ease and amusement. The harbour of Nym- phseura was entirely open, and unguarded both by sea and land. To the west, at Sudack, Alnsta, or Yourzuf, invaders would have found the Tartars 'greeting their arrival with tears of jov. A small band or Mprean Greeks upon the aoast, would be ready to join the invaders, or to fly at their approach.* Arriving in the garrison towns, a few snoring soldiers, hardly out of drill, or4i party of bloated offiee'rs labouring under indigestion and ague, could not offer even a semblance «f opposition. Any experienced general from the armies of England, France, or Germany, might pledge bis reputation for the capture of the Crimea with a thousand men.f Such an event throughout the peninsula would be celebrated as a signal delivery from the worst of tyrants, and every honest %eart would participate in the transports of an injured people thufs emancipated. * Though some years have elapsed sinoe this journal was written, the alianges which have taken plac/e in Russia, rather tend to facilitate tiian to obstruct the capture of the Crimea. t Asunrey of the ports of Aktiar, with ajl t!i€ 8oaodui»j we had the satisfaction to bring to England. ALOKG THE COAST Ot THE CRIMEA. 8!^ This ftoeoant may not seem to accord with thedeseriptipni which were published of the conduct of the Russian troops in Italj) unaeT field-marshal count Suvarof. But where will Russia find appther Buvarof P He was created to be a Russian general ; possessing all the qualifications, and the only qualifications which can entitle a Russian chief to the hope of victory. Amons his troops, he was^enera^/y their eommander ; individmlTy, their eomrade and their friend* Tqthe highest military rank in Russia, he joined the man- ners and the taste of a prirate soldier ; one moment closeted with his sovereign, the next dniiklns;qua8S^ with his troops, eating raw turnips, devesting himself of rermin, or sleeping npon straw. He partook every interest of the privates 5 entered into all their little histories ; mediated in their dis- putes ; shared in their amusements ; was at once their coun- sellor and KKampIe; in short, the hero who planned and then led the way to victory. The Catechism^ as he strange- ly termed that extraordinary composition, which he drew up for the instruction of every soldier in his army, will show more of his real cbaiucter than the most studied descrip« tion. It possesses a portion of all his characteristieks ; somewhat of his buffoonery, inconsistency, barbarity, mili- tary skill, his knowledge of the disposition of his country- men, and of his anxietv and precaution for the welfare of his troops, as well as. of his remarkable talent for directing even their vices to advantage : in a word, it offers a key to those counsels which directed all his militarv operations. This singular document fell into my hands | it was sent by order f)f the crown, while we were in the country, to every reeiment in the Russian service, in order that each soldier might learn to repeat it from memory, and is presented to the£nglish reader in the Appendix,* literally translated, word for word from the original Russian, as faithfully ar ^ fhe idioms of the two lai^uages will admit. * See the Appendix, No. 11. CHAPTER XXII. SECOND EXCURSION TO THE MINOR PENINSULA OP THE HERACUEOTjE. Professor Pallas accompanies the author — Mankoop^Ru- ins of the Fortress — Cape of tlie Winds-^Shulnr^Fnl . ler^s Earth'Pitts — Manufacture of Keff-kill'—hthmian Wall — Ay a Buriin — Cgins of Vladimir — -Akxiano's Chouter-^Point and Bay of Phanari-^Ruins of the old Chersouesus of Strabo — Valley of Tchorgona-^Dan^er of the Climate — Tartar J\*obles — Russian Recruit— bal- via Hablitziana — Return to Akmetchet. AS we had not been able to ascertain the true situation of the most ancient of the two cities of the Cherson- esians, wliich Strabo describes as in ruins within the Hera- eleotick peninsula, and professor Pallas maintained that it must have stood on, or near the point of land which form* the most wftstern. territory of the Crimea, now called Point Phanari, we determined to make a second excursion, mA to traverse the minor peninsula in all directions. The pro- fessor himself resolved to accompany us ; and accordinglj we left Akmetchet* in a light, open carriage belqtiffingto him, on Saturday, September ihe seventh. The road pass- ing throngh a deep ravine, we collected several specimens of t he salvia hablitziana^ and the centaiirea myinocephala; which lat^erv^as the favourite food of the Crimean sbe^P? i& supposed to give that beautiful gray colour to the wpol of the lambs, so highly prized both. in Turkey and TaiU- ry, art an ornament of the calpack^ or cap worn by TarUr gentlemen, in lieu of the turban. The professor instruct- ed us to search for the rarest plants, in deep sands, salt marshes, and upon chalkv hills. We purposely avoided entering again the town of'Baktcheserai in order to escape theinterruptiou of ceremonial visits, passing hyEski Yourstf * '* Akmetchet, or Wnte Mosque now Simph^ropol, ttioagh the «eat « government, is a wretched and ruinous pUcp, formcHv txtcnsiTC, as appears from its three mosques, which fiUnd at a considerable disiwice trom each other. There is her» a good View of the mouBtain Cbaiyr *^*g- Jfeba^s MS. Journal, TO THE J^ENINSULA OF HERACLEOT^. 36d the aneient m&usoleum of the Khang^ and changing horses at Kjotcha. Soon after leaving this last place, we turned towards the southern chain of mountains, and passed Kb- rallaes^ tl^e most pleasing village in the Crimea, beauti-. fuilT situated in the entrance of a romantiek defile, which leads to Shniti. On the right hand, soon afler entering this defile, and up«n the siiminits of the high mountains which form its southern side, are seen the remains of the ancient fortress of Teherkesskerm&n, once possessed by the Cxeno- ese, and in remoter periods by the Circassians, as its name implies. When the former made themselves masters of the strong holds in the Crimea, they erected fortresses upon the most preeipitoos and inaccessible places, in the wildest retreats of the peninsula. Tcherkesskerman was one of the citadels thus constructed^ and the scattered ruins of \i% battlements still covcf the heights I have mentioned. Yet even these remains are less remarkable than those of Man* koop on the other side of the defile ; on this account we preferred making a visit to the latter, and turning off to a village on the left hand, were provided with beautiful Tar« tar horses and guides for that purpose. The fortress of Mankoop is of vei^ extraordinary mag- nitude, and may be described as literally in the clouds. It covers the summit of a semicircular, insulated mountain. This, from its frightful aspect, its altitude, and craggy, perpendicular sides, independent of every other considera- tion than as a surprising work of nature, fills the mind with wonder upon entering the defile. In that singular sit- uation, where there were no visible roe&ns of ascent to- wards any of the heights, much less of conveying materi- als for the astonishing work they completed, did the Geno- ese cdnstl'uct a citadel, perhaps without a parallel in Eu- rope, the result of their wealth, address, and enterprise. History ^loes not mention for what especial purpose those works were carried on by the Greeks or Genoese in the in- teriourof the country, at such a distance froai the coast; hnt it is natural to conjecture their use in curbing the hos- tile spirit of the natives towards the maritime, colonial pos- sessions.* The last possessors of Maokoop were Jews. * Some curiods memoriala of this remarkable citadel £ Mankoop] are found in Brouiovius, >vho descnbes tt as, **. Anx et Civitas quondam an- tiquUsma.'*^ He also says, " Mancopia civitas ad montes et syivas magis porrecta, et mad non jam propinqua est ; arces duas in oltissiixio saxo c<- perainpio condifta», tcmpia Grseca sumptuosa et aedesy &cc. habnit. . « . • Ac in eo monte tazoso, in q;a0 s&ta est, in saxoA>iroadmoUumopcredomu& A. k dG6 Clarke's travels is tartary.. Ruined tombs of marble and stone were lying in the cfeBie- tery of their colony beneath the trees we passed in our w- cent. The whole of our passage up the mountain was steep and difficult; nor was it rendered more practicable by the amazing labours of its original possessors, whose dilapidated works rather served to imj)ede than tp facili- tate our progress. The ascent had onee been paved the whole way, and stairs formed, like those of th^ Merdmn, described 'in the last chapter. These still remain entire in many places. When we reached the summit, we found it entirely co- vered with ruins of the citadel. Caverns and gloomy gal- leries perforated in the rock, whose original uses are now unknown, presented on every side their dark mouths. On the most elevated part of this extraordinary erainence,Js a beautiful plain, covered with fine turf, among which we ibund the Rosa Pygmma of Pallas^ blooming in great beauty. This plain, partly fenced in by the mouldering wall of the fortress, but otherwise open to surroundins precipices, ap- peared to me as lofty as the cliffs along the Sussex coast, mear Beachy Head. All the other mountains, valleys, billsj woods, and villages, n^ay be discerned from this spot. While with dismay and caution we crept upon our hands and knees to look over the brink of those ffearful heights, a half-clad Tartar, wild as the winds of the north, mounted, withoat any saddle, or bridle, except the twisted stem of a wild vine, on a colt equally unsubdued, galloped to the very edge oi tjic precipice 5 and there, as his horse stood prancing upon i.lie borders of eternity, amused himself in pointing oat to ijs the difi'erent places in the vast district which the eye commanded. We entered one of the excavated cbamhersj a small, square apartment, leading to another on our right hand. On our left, a narrow passage condwcted us to an ^>pen balcony with a parapet in front formed in the roeK^ upon the very face of one of the principal precipiecs, whence the depth below might be contemplated with less danger- Vultures beneath the view were sailing over the valleys? not seeming larger than swallows. Below these, the tops o undulating hills, covered by tufted woods, with viUaees amidst rocks and defiles, appeared at a depth so intifl»»<l*' excisas Ijabet, qu» ctsiillc locus nunc sylvosns est, iritegne tamen P ^ ^j^^ reperiuntcr. Phanutu mamidreis et sei»ptntinis CduB&nis ^^'^^^^^ i^^a^ jam i>i-ustiatura ct con-uptum, insignem et clai-ura quondaia ewn cu;:,se testatm-.'* J^wcn^. 5Vir^ar. p^). 262, 264.. ^ . TO THE PENINSULA OF HERACLEOTiE. 367 ting, that the blood chilled in beholding it. We afterwards found the remains of churches and other publick buildins;s among the ruins, and in a more perfect state than might be expected in the Russian empire 3 but this is easily accounted for, by their difficulty of access. At length, being conducted iti the northeastern point of the crescent, which is the shape of the summit on which the fortress of Mankoop was con- structed, and descending a few stone steps, neatly hewn in the rock, we entered by a sauare door into a cavern, called by the Tartars The Cape of the TVinds, It has been ehis- selled, like the rest, out of the solid stone ; but it is open on four sides. From the amazing prospect here commanded of ^ all the surrounding country, it probably served as a post of military observation. The apertures, or windows, are large arcKed chasms in the rock; through these, a most exteasive range of scenery over distant mountains and rolling clouds farms a sublime* spectacle. There is nothing in any part of £urope. to surpass the tremendous grandeur of the place. Beldvv the cavern is another chamber leading to several cells on its different sides 5 these have all been cutout of the same rock. We pursued a different road in descending: passing be- ^ Death an old arched gateway of the citadel, once its principal entrance.* This ros^d flanks the northern side of the moun- tain ; and the fall into the valley is so bold and profound, that it seems, as if a single false step would precipitate both horse aud rider. By alighting the danger is avoided ; and the terrour of the descent compensated in the noblest scenery t|ie eye ever beheld. It was dark before we reached the bottom ;, we had some difficulty to regain the principal i^oad which leads through the delile, owing priueipally to the trees which project over all the lanes in the vicinity of Tartar villages, and so effectually obstruct the passage of persons on horseback, that we were in continual danger of being thrown; one of our party neaily lost an eye by a blow he received frooii a bough, which stretched quite across the path we pursued. The defile itself is not without dan- ger in certain seasons of the year 5 immense masses of lime- stone detach themselves from the rocks above, carrying all * Future travellers who may visit Mankoop are advised to choose this road tor their ascent: as it will afford tlie»n the aublimest scenery pcrhaj>3 ever beheld. Tiie Tartars, tor what reason cannot be explained, call it The Carriage^-waift altUough x?e.were unable to sit evca upon oar horsea in goin^ dovrn^ 368 Clarke's travels in tartary* before them in their passage. Some, from the northerft precipices, had crossed the river at the bottom, and, by tfee prodigious velocity acquired in their descent, had actually rolled nearly half way up the opposite side. We passed some of those fragments in our way to Shulu, where we pas- sed the night. This villaae belongs to professor Pallas, and consists of a forest of Walnut trees, beneath which every, dwelling is concealed.* One of those trees yielded hiui, as he informed us on the spot, in a single season, sixty thou- sand walnuts. The ordinary price of the fruit throughont the Crimea is from eighty to a hundred copeeks for a thou- sand.* The professor had huih himself a very magnificent seat at Shulu, but owing to his disputes with the Tartars eoncerning the extent of his territory, the completion of tlte work had been delayed when we arrived. The building is placed on the northern side of the defile, commanding a fine prospect of the valley ; but, from the chalky nature of 4be soil in the surrounding bills, every thing had a white glare, painful to the eye, ana wholly destructive of piet^H^sque appearance. Near this hill, on one side of the eminences opposite to the professor's house, is a series of excavations similar to those of Inkerman, exhibiting the ancient retreats of Christians in cells and grottoes. One of those cavern ous chambers is net less than eighty paces in length, with a proportionable hreadth, and its roof is supported by .pillars hewn in the rock; the stone, from the softness of its nature^ did not oppose the difficulty encountered in similar woVks which are iseen in other parts of the Crimea; ** ' . From Shulu we proceeded once more to Balaclava. 'In our road we passed several pits, in which the Tartars dig' that kind of fuller's earth called Keff-Jcl^ otMineral Frothy' and, by the Germans, J/eersc/iaMm. This earth, before the capture of the Crimea, was a considerable article of com- merce with Constantinople, where it was used in publiek baths to cleans^ the hair of -women. It is often sold to Ger- man merchants for the uiahufaeture of those beautiful to- bacco pipes, which bear the name of Ecume de Mer among the French, and sell at such enormous prices, even in our own country, after they have bieen coloured by long use. The long process necessary to the perfection of one of those '•The copeck is e<i.«a] to our lialfpenny. . f Lii.orjilly foam earthy but often erroiiequrfy supposed to derive ita r*amc from 'the teun ©f Cafia; -vvjienoe this mineral ^v«s exported to TtU'key. -. ■ , . . * TO tttE PENINSULA OF HERACLBOTA 3tf$ pipegy with all its eireumstances, is reallj a eorious subject. Sitiee the interruption of cdmmeree between the Crimea and Turkey, the substance reqnisite in their niannfaclure^ has been du^ near th6 site of the ancient Iconium^ in Anatolia* The first rude shape is s^iven to the pipes on the spot where the mineral is dug;, where they are pressed in a mould, and laid in the sun to harden ; then they are b^Jced in an oven^ boiled in milk, and rubbed with soft leather. In this state they ^ to Constantinople, where there is a peculiar bazar, or khan^ for the sale of them; they are then brousrht op hy the merchant'^, and sent by the caravans to Pest, in Hungary. Still the form of the pipe is large and coarse. At Pest the manufacture begins which fits them for the German markets. They are there soalced for t%venty four hours in water, and then' turned on a l%the. In this process many of them prove porous^ and are good for nothing. . Sometimes only two or three out of ten succeed. From Pest they are conveyed t(^ Vienna, and ultima(eiy to the fairs of Leipsick, Franckibrty Mahheim. and other towns upon the Rhrne; where the best sell from three lo five, and even seven pound sterling each. When the oil of tobacco, after long smoking, has given them a fine porcelain yellow ; or, which is more prized,, a dark tortoiseshell hue, they have been known to sell for . forty or fifty pounds of our money. Their manner of digging , keff'kil in the Crimea, is merely by making a hole in the: ground, and there working till the sides begin to fall in, which soon happens when they open a new pit. A stratum, of marl generally covers the keff-kil ; through this they have to dig, some times, to the depth of from eight to twelve fathoms. The layer of keff'-kil seldom exceeds twenty *eight inches in thickness, and, beneath it, the marl occurs as before. At present, the annual exportation of this mineral from the whole peninsula, does not exceed twa tonsj the eonsump* tion of it iti the Crimea is inconsiderable, although it is. sold in all the markets at the low price of Iweiity copeek» the poiid.* At the distance of about two miles from Balaclava, ss we proceeded to that place, we discovered the traces of an an* eient wall, extending from the mountains eastward off th& Ikafbour towards the west, and thus closing the approach t» Balaclava on the la^d side. As it oflfered a due to^ the dis- ^ eovery of the other wall mentioned by Strabo, which ex- * The Rassian poud, aceording taHanway, ei^uals d6lb8^ of our weigM»; w fiortj Rumian poods. & k ^ S7a ■ . OI*AKK]&*S TRAVELS IN TAKTABlY. tended aeross the IsthniDS from the Ctentis to the Portus Si/mbolorum^ we determined to pursue it, and continued on horseback guided by its remains ; professor Pallas eboosiog to follow more carefully on foot, with a mariner's eompiisi in his hand. Preseatly we eneountered the indentleal work Ve so much wished to find ; it will serve to throw eonsiderar ble li^ht upon the topography of the minor peninsula. It meets the wall of the PortusSymbolornm atrigbi angleS) a.nd thence extends towards Inkerman, where it joiniid the Ctenus. We traced it the whole way. The distance betweea the two porta i^ very erroneously stated, and exaggerated^ in all our maps. It ag^rees precisely with Straho's admeasore- ment of forty stadia, or five miles, from sea to sea. AH that now remains of this wall, is a. bank or mound $ upon this the marks and vesti^s of turrets are still visible. Thestooes of which it consisted, have, for the most part, been carried off by the inhabitants ; tSther to form enclosures for the shepuerds, or to construct the Tartar houses. Those which remain are sufficient to prove the artificial nature of the work;. as they are not natural to the soil, but foreign sub- stances evidently brought for the purpose of fortifying the rampart. Having determined the reality and positiaatof this wall, we resolved to lose no time in further examinal^D of the territory here, but ascended the steep mountains upon the coast towards the west; to visit the stupendous eape, called by the Tartars Jlya Burun, or the Sacred Promontorjr? lying between Balaclava and the monastery of St.;Geor^ The Parthenium of Strabo was within the Herwjieotick Chersonesus, as the plain text of that author undoubtedly demonstrates; and, if there be a spot well calculated for U»c terrible rites said to have been celebrated in honour of the Taurican Diana» a» well as for the consonance of its position with the distance Strabo has assigned it from the city o* Chersonesus^ it is the ^ya Burun. In the perplexity neces- sarily arisiag.from an endeavour to reconcile ancient aw modern geography it would be the height of presomption to speak positively with regard to any peculiar situatioB, concerning; which we have no positive evidence; yet some- thing beyond mere conjecture, seems fuhnded on the ^^*^?' dence of its preset t name, with the pristine history of tn Parthenian Promontory ; and Pallas seems willing t<! *^^" their identity.* The contemplation of objects descnbea*" many Ages ago, and to whieh^ in barbarous countnci^ ^ TO THE FENINSULA OF HZRAGht^^'tJZ, 87i are gwidcd solely-bj the text of the Greek or the Ronutu •historians, is always attended with uncertainty; but wliett barbarians themselves, unconscious of the tenour of their traditions, by their simple and uncouth narrative, eonfirnft tie observations of the ela^sick writer, and fix the waverii^ fiict, there seems little reason to doubt. On this account, the ^ya £uriin has, perhaps, as good a title to be considered the Parthenivm of Strabo,* a* the harbour of Balaclava fats F&rius Symbolorum. The same remarkable epithet occurs ui the apbeUation\^^uiag'A, given to a promontory men* tioned in the preceding chapter, probably from eircumstan- ees connected with the ancient worship to which Strabo aU ludes, because the word Parfenie it still retained in the name of a contiguous village. The different promontories of tha Tauride, which bore aciently the name of Tarthmium^ must necessarily perplex an inquiry tending to ascertain the exact position of any one of them. In the language ef the Tauri, who were the earliest votaries of the Diana of the country^ that goddess was called Orsiloche ; and perhaps in the Cau- casian mountains, whence this nation was derived, the sig-* nification of such an appellation might be obtained. It ivas in Caueasas that Pallas discovered the use of the word Jirdauda ; onee, in the dialectof the Tauri, a nanie of Theo- dosia; signifying The seven-fold Dwinity ^ ort^rr^Sof; ac* cording to the author of the anonymous Peripluff of the Euxine.f ~ The Aya 'Bdrikn has been by some authors erroneously- denominated the Criu-metopon. It is a wild and fearful scene ; sueb as Bhakspear has described in Lear a perpen- fltjeular and tremendous precipice, one of the loftiest in the Crimea ^ consisting of a mountain of marble, terminating abruptly in the sea. Towards the west it borders on a ralky, in which the village of Karany is situated, now in* habited by Greeks. After we had passed it, and were within two versts of the monastery of St. George, we fan- * The decision of ttii point viU be left for future trayellers, yrho may take tl^e pains of measuring its exact distance from the i*uins of the city of the Chersonesians, It has beeto here stated, merely from conjecture, to agree with Strabo's account, who makes it eoual to k hundred stadia^' oi' twelve miies and a half.' If the distance tothe w%a £iii^n shoiald prove more th^n tbis, they will. do wpll ta direct their attentipu in the next in» stance, to that part of the coast mentioned in p. S29| as having; the natursd arch. ■ . t iEd. G«)noT. JLug. Bat, 1697. p, 14»* 87^ OLARKE'g TRAVELg IK TARTAttY. eied we had found the actual fane of the demon virgin, which Strabo describes as situated at the Parthenian pro* moDtory ^ for we came to the remains of an ancient strittt- are, bearing every character of remote antiquity ; the stoaei, of a most massive nature, being lain together without ce- ment. Part of the pavement and walls was still visible. Soon afterwards, we arrived for the second time at the monastery of St. George; of this place our friend Pallas afterwards published an engraving in the second volume of his travels tnrough the southern provinces of the Russiaa empire. The anniversary, mentioned by Broniovius. is still celebrated here.* Some peasants brought us a few copper coins of Vladimir the Great. These are very inter- esting, inasmuch as they evidently refer to the era of his baptism ; an event which took place near the spot. They have in front a Russian V, and for reverse a cross ; symbol- ical of his conversion to the Christ iau religion, it has been already mentioned, that he was baptised iu the Crimea, and the ceremony took place, according to HehersteiD, t at the city of Chersonesus, called Cherson or Corson ;t a name easily now confounded with CJherson on the Duieperj an appellaiion bestowed by the Russians, with their usualig- norance of ancient geography, upon a modern town near the mouth of that river. About five versts from the Dfton- astery, following the coast, we came to some extensive ru- ins in a small wood, on the right hand side of our road. I^ their present state it is impossible even to trace a plan of them; for the Tartar shepherds, in moving the stones lo carry oiT materials of enclosure for their flocks, have con- fused all that remains^ From henc^ we continued oar journey towards the extreme southwestern point of the Cri- mea, and came to a place called Ahxiano^s C/ww^er, just a» it grew dark. The barking of dogs announced the com- fortable assurance of human dwellings, and excited a hop& • <* Est in eo loco \iiidc rivu^us ille delaUtur Pagns qnidam boh ijiiobi- fis, et nou procul in ripa maris, in raonte saxoso, 'Vracum iHifuutentf^ Sancti Geor^ii kolemne } anniversaria deyotio Graecis Cbristianis, q»i n*^^"* in Tauriea aunt reliqui, in magna frequentia ibi fieri solet." Martini Brof*- iwH Tartaria, Lug. Bat. 1630. t Ap<id Pagi, torn. IV. p. 56. % See the additional n^tes at the end of the Tohime for a rery iaterest- ing account of this once magnifieent city by JBrenioviu8% an account tciT litUe known, but preserving, perhaps, the only description of it *J*ff ©Hsts. Broniovius / states, that Viatfimir was baptised by the Grfck n\' wawa w the priaeipal moBasteiy of the 4»ty of ChertODCstift. TO TUB PINIKSVLA OF HBRA«LEOTJE. 3tS of gome asylum for the night, after severe fatigue. We foand^ howerer, that what we supposed to he a village, consisted of four or five wretched fishing-huts. A few Ch-eeks quartered there ofFered to stow us all into a hole reeently dug in the earth, scarcely eapahle of containing three persons, the stench of which was ahominahte ; it was moreover filled with sheep's hides, swarming with vermin. Having procured a little oil in a4in pan, we made it serve us for a lamp, and, searching about, at last found a small thatched hovel^ with an earth fl<ior, and a place to light a fire. Here, notwithstanding the extreme heat, we kin- dled some dried weeds in order to counteract the effects of miasmata from the marshes and stagnant waters of the neighbourhood. By the light of our fire, a bed was prepa- red for professor Pallas, upon a sort of shelf ; this, as it supported only half his mattress, caused him to glide off as often as he fell asleep, and at last reconciled him to a quiet, though more dis^sting couch upon the damp floor. For our own parts, having procured some long wooden ben- ches about eight inches wide, we contrived to balance our . bodies, between 'sleeping and Waking, in a horizontal pos- ture, until the morniiig. When daylight appeared, the professor left us, to examine the point 0/ Phanarij or the Light Tower ^ and, returning before we were yet roused; from our somnolency, assured us the whole of that neck of land was covered with ancient ruins. We rose with great eagerness to follow him : and, as we approached the wa- ters edge, were immediately struck by the appearance of a vei^ small peninsula advancing into the bay of Phanari, entirely covered by the remains of an ancient fortress. The Elan of it is given by the professor in the work to which I ave before alluded. It seemed to have been once an island, connected with the main land by an artificial mole, now con- stituting a small isthmus. From this peninsula the shore rises, and all the land towards its utmost we^ern extremity is elevated. Ascending the sloping eminence thus present- ed upon the top of it occi|r the walls, streets, dilapidated baildings, and other ruins of the old Chersonesus.* The appearance of oblong pavements^ mouldering walls, scat- tered fragments of earthen vessels, broken amphoree, tile« and bricks of aqueducts, and other indications of an ancient city, prevailed over the whole territory quite to the sea. * Ei6' n tfAX-u^ Xt^doywtK x*Twic*/u/xfy». •• Sequitar Tetusta Clierronevtis dhniA.^^ Strab, lib. yn.f.^iB,ed. 03con> Sy4 ' ClhlBLItnH ^RAVBtS IN TARTAR Y. After traeia.i^ the extent of those ruins the whole w&j t« the point of Phanari, we diseoFered on the western side of the bay of that name, npon the sea shore, close to the water's ed^, and upon a v^erjlow point of land almost level with it, the remains of a building, which we supposed to hare served formerly as a li^hUhouse ; andto have given the name of Flianari^ to the western point, as well as to the bay. An arched entrance, with two of the walls, and a square opening for a v^indow, of very massive and solid construction, i$ still visible. Fatiffued by a laborious investigation of ruins, which, after alt, did not gratify us by the disclosure of a single in* eription, medal, or bas-relief, we hastened to enjoy the beauties of nature in the delightful valley of Tchorgona; whither the professor conducted us to pass the night in the mansion of his friend Hablitz, whose name he has eomrae- morated by i\ie Salvia HabUiziana^ and whose good offices h^ 80 often and so pathetically mentions in his writings,* Per- haps there is not a spot in the whole Crimea so distinguished \ty its natural perfections. Though comprised in a smaller scale, it far surpasses in beauty the boasted valley of Bai^ dar. The seat of Mr. Hablitz was originally the residence of a Turkish, pacha, and preserves the irregular structure and strange mi^ificence of Turkish architecture. It is shaded by vines, tall fruit treesi &nd poplars; standing among rocks and mountains covered with woods and gar- dens, watered by numerous fountains. Near the house is a large, ancient tower, eovered by a dome. This was a place «tf refuge for the inhabitants when the Black Sea swarmed with corsairs, who invaded the coast and. ransaid^od the peaceful valleys of the Crimea, We found in its upper chambers a few swivels and other small pieces of artillery ; yet the bnilding itself appeared to have been erected in an ^e anteriour to the ose of gunpowder in the peninsula. The Tartars in the valley of Tehorgona are reckoned among - the richest of the country, F^om their vicinity to Aktiar, they find a readv market for the produce of their lands; carrying thither honey, wax, fruit, and com. Their seques- tered valley seemed the retreat of health and joy; not a Russian was to be seen; the pipe and tabor sounded merrily anions the mountains ; and these, thick set with groves, closed them in on every side. The morning after our arri- * See particularly. Travels through the Southern Fi'oviaces, (ke. voL 11* TO THB PENlNSty^A OP HBftAOLEOTJE, SYi Talvwe were roused hj a wild concert, from the hills^ of saeh ingtruments as perhaps animated the dances of unciv* iHzed nations in the earliest periods of societj*^ • The performers were a party of TziganJcieSj or gipsies, who, as mendicant artificers, musicians, and astrologersy are very common oyer all the south of Russia. They had a wind instrument, something like n hautboy, made of ih^ wood of cherrytree ; and carried the large, Tartar drum, noticed before as characteristick of the Cimbri in the tima ef Stra:bo.* Early in the morning of this day, professor PaJlas rod« with Mr. Galena, who came by appointmetit to lakerman $t to show him sonie marine plants proper in the preparation of kelp. The bad air of that place, before injurious to me^ added to the fatigue he had encountered the preceding day, threw him into a violent fever 5 from this, however, we had the happiness to see him recover before we left the Crifliea^ Fevers are so general, during summer, throughout the per ninsula, that it is hardly possible to avoid them. If yoa drink water after eating fruit, a fever follows^ if you eat milk, eggs, or hotter^ — a fever; if, during the. scorching heat of the day ,^ you indulge in the most tririal neglect of olothing — a fever ; if you venture out to enjoy the delighir ful breezes of the evening — a fever; in short, su^histhe dangerous nature of the climate to strangers, that Russia iiiiust eonsider the country a cemetery for th6 troops sent.t^ maintain its possession. This is not the case with regard to its native inhabitants, the Tartars; the preeautiens they use, added to long experience, ensure their safety. Upon ^ Sec page 591 of this volume. ' ^ In the dearth of intelligence whteh prevails among historians concer- ning Ittkerman, th€ brief aceoutit preser;vcd hy SronioviitSf Is interesting and Talyable. As an author, he was not onl; cited but transcribed bj Thu- anui / yet, otherwise, his writings appear to have escaped ebserratiom *• Ing'ermenum milliaribus xii. vel ampUvte ^ Coalovia distat. Arcem lap* ideam» templuni, et specus sub a/rce, et ex adverso arcis rmro opere ex petra exisos, habet / nam in mmte maocimo et tdtudmo aita e^t, ac inde d specubus^ Turcia cognomon retinet, Oppidum quondam turn igmbilCf opiht£s refertum, celeberHmum^ et natura leci maxime admirandumf com piasiMimumqteeeJCtitit Ingermemarcemaatia etmagiiificam d J^rinpipiinta Grmcis extructdm fidaae apparet: nam pw*tu et adificitL adAuc normUa integra Gracia charucteribus exomata, et cum inaignibua eorttnt tnaculpta con8piciuntw\ Ac per univeraum ilium iathmum quondam 4i4 usgttfi ddntbia mama ctdifida aumpiuoaa extitiaae, puteoi excavatos tr^mtos^qui ctd hue fertflurim aunt integri; adextremum vero dnaa tnu9 Megiaa grandea lapidibua . atrataa ease^ certo apparet^\ Miu:titti J^roniovii T«i*taria. Lug. Bat. 1630. S76 «LA&K£'S TRAVELS IN TARTAHt. ilie slif^htest change of ^veather* thej are seen wrapped up in sheep's hides, and covered by felts, nearly an inch in thickness, while their heads are swathed in nutnerous liand- ag^s of linen, or guarded by warm stuSfed caps, fenced with wool. . The Tartar nobles of the Crimea, or Moorxa. as they are called, by a name which answers to4,he Persian word Mirxa^ so common in oriental <aks,' amount in number to about two hundred and fifty.Their dress is altogether Circas- sian^ except that the cap is larger than the sort of covering worn on the head by the princes of mount Caucasus.Theirfig- ure on hoi sebackis in the highest degree stately ; and atnong all the Crimean Tartars, of whatsoever rank, an ele«;attce of manners may be remarked. This, although, perhaps, common to oriental nations, affords a striking opposition to the boorish figure of a Russian. It is diverting to i^ee them converse together: the Tartar has, in common with the Russian, an impetunsity and eagerness in uttering his expressions ; hut it is zeal very dinerently characterized. The Tartar'may be ^aid to exhibit all the playful fiexifoil- ity and vajyiuj* posture of the leopard 5 while the Ru^iao, rather resembling the bear, is making an awkward paiade of bU paws. The dress of a Tartar nobleman displays as much taste as can be shown by a habit necessarily decora- ted with gold and silver lace. It is neither heavily laden with ornament, nor are the colours tawdry. They delight sometimes in strong contrast, by opposing silver lace to black velvet for their caps ; scarlet or rose-coloured silk to dark cloth for their vest or pelisse ; but in general, the dress of a Tartar of distinction is remarkable for its simple ele- gance, as well as cleanliness. Their favourite colour in cloth is drab ; and the gray or white wool iot their winter- eaps, is of all other ornaments most in esteem. The Rus- sian peasant, being of a diminutive race, connected only with the Laplander, as the next link in the chain between him and the pigmy, is naturally of a lively disposition, and never completely awkward except when metamorphosed to a soldier. The moment he enters the ranks, all the brisk and cheerful expression of his countenance is gone ; and he appears a chop-fallen, stupid, hrow-beaten, sullen clown. Their commanders answer precisely the same description, with this difTe reuse, that they are more profligate. A Rus- sian in power, whatever be his rank, or wherever he may TO rut PENINSULA OF HERAOLEeiW. 3W be plaeedf is still the same moral example of national ehar- acter.* Upon the roek^ behind the honse of Mr. Hablitz, we foand the identical plant which Pallas distinguished by the name of his friend, Salvia Hahtitziana^ growing in great abundance. Hitherto no aeeoant of it has been published. The plant is uueommonlj rare. It is a perennial, which may be sown in common garden soil in the open air, and increases annuMly in size, nntil it becomes a fine, tall shrub pf very great beauty. We afterwards brought it to the Bo- taiiick Garden in Cambridge, where it also succeeded, al- though it hajs never attained the size to which it grows in Russia. From Tehorgona we returned again to Shulu, and from whence to Kara Uaes, where we passed thenight in the pal- ace of a Tartar nobleman; and, being couched upon a sort of spfa called the Divan, surrounding the principal apartment, were covered by bugs *and fleas of the most enor- mous^size, whieh came upon us like ants from an anthill. The next day we drove pleasantly to Akmetchet, and onee more shared the comforts of the professor's hospitable mansion 5 regretting only the fever with which he was af- flicted in consequence of an excursion, otherwise considered by us the most agreeable journey we had ever made. - * Butler,' with singular felicity of delineation, has afforded, in his Ha- dftn^as, so faithful a portrait of a'Rtissian general, that too person acqaaint- ed witii the country will- read it. without acknowledging the repreaentJi- tion to be as accurate, as if Potemkiu himself had sat for the picture. " He was by birth, some authors write, A Russian, some a Muscovite, And 'mong the Cossacks had been bred, ■ Of whom we in diurnals read. That serve to fill up pages here, - As tviih their bodies ditcfies there'* Scrimansky was his cousin -germati, . With whfoui he sei-ved, and fed on vermin ; And when these tailed, he'd suck his claws;^, And quarter himself upon his paws. And though his countrymen, the Hans, Did stew their meat bet weeu. tlieir bums And the horses' backfl, o'er which they straddle, , And every man eat up his saddle : He was not half so nice as they. But eat it raw when it eamc in the way." ' Hudib. Part. I. Cant, a, * Potefnkin died in a ditch near Yasa, LI CHAPTER XXIII. FROM THE CRIMEA, BY THE ISTHMtJS OF PERtlCOP, TO NICHOLAEF. Journey to Koslof — Result of the Eoppedition^^Setiirn to Akmetchet — Marshal Bi'berstein* — Departure from, ^^ metthet—T^recop — Salt Harvest^-Migay Tartars — Ra- na variabilis — General Surviy of the Crimeor-r^Country Jforth cf the Isthmus-^FacUity of travelling in Russia — Banditti of the Vkraint — •Anecdote of a desperate Rob- ber-^Intrepw Conduct of a Courier — Caravans — Biros* laf-^Freparation for receiving the Grand Duke-^Cher* ' son — Burial of Fotemkin — Recent Disposal ^ his Body — Particulars of the Death of Howard-'^^0rder of his Funeralr-^Tomb of Howard— J^cholaef. . 'VI7E left Akmetchet for Koslof oh the twenty eighth »f y Y September^ in the hope of obtaining a passage to Constantinople, on board a Turkish brigantine^ captain Osman Ilees. By whatever port of the Russian empire oor escape might be effected, we knew it would be attended with considerable hazard. We had no passport from govern- ment to that effect, and we had every reason to be eonvin- ced that none would be granted* However, after waiting many months in vain expeetatinn of a release from the op- pressive tyranny then exercised over Englishman by <^veTy Russian they encountered, female interest in Petersbnrgh accomplished our delivery. A forged order from the sov- ereign was executed and sent to us, by means df whieh, in spite of the vigilance qf the police, we contrived to leave the country. It is necessary to state Uiis eireurastanee, lest any of <hose,by whom we had been so hospitably entertained, should hereafter be considered accessary to our flight. Kos- lof was fixed upon, as the place least liable to those re- searches from spies and custoin-honse officers, whieh might impede our departure; and, having erossed the steppes which led to it, we arrived there in the middle of the night Such a tremendous storm of thunder, lightnifig, wind, hail, and rain, came on before we reached the place, that the FROM THE CRIMEA TQ NICHOJl-AEF. $79 hprses refused to procee<j, and we were compelled to halt, opposing our backs to its fury, until the violence of the tempest subsided.* As soon as morning dawned, we had our baggage sealed at the custom-house, and agreed for our passage, at the enormous rate of two hundred and fifty roubles; this was deemed by us a moderate sum, as the original demand had been six haadred^ The common rate of a passenger, from Kosiof to Constantinople^ is not more than ten ; but it was evident the Turks, suspecting the nature of our situation, wished to make a booty of us* When all was settled, the inspector of the customs, to our great dismay, accompanied fcy several officers, came to assure us that the townvvould Hot fo6 responsible for our fafety if w^ ventured to embark in the brigantine ; this they described a^ so deeply laden, that »he was already nine inches below her proper poise in the water. The captain had, moreover, two shallops of mer- ehandise to take on board,and8ixty four passengers. Some ArmenianB had already removed ttfeir property from the vessel ; and we were assured »he was so old aod rotten, that tier seams would open if exposed to any tempestuous wea- ther. The captain, a bearded Turk, like the mariners of his^ eo^atr^, was a sincere p redes tinaris^n ; which circumstance^ added to his avarice, rendered him perfectly indifferent as to the events. As commander of the only ship in the harbour, bound for Coostantipople, he liad been induced to stoW the cargoes of two ships into his single vessel. This often hap- pens with Turkish merehantmen in the Black Sea, atid is one of the causes of the nnmerous disasters which befal them. To prove the extent of the risk they will adventure^ we heardvupon our return to Akmetchet, thai captain Rees had filled. the cabin we were to have occupied, with four bn&dred cantars of honey, and ^a friend of ours was offered a thousand roubles to obtain the governour's acquiescence in an additional ^unterband eai^go of two thousand bulls' • The eonseqnenoe of sleeping in this situation^ exposed to the naias- mata of salt marshes, which eause a somnoleney it is impossible to 4>esist» brought on ftgain, nvith renovated force, th<5; q^uartan fever, I had so long eotnhated. Mr. Cripps vas also attacked, but with a different effect ; a sore throat, attended by cutaneoas ejraptions cdv^ring his whole body, and* from which he was soon relieved, wa^all the coft%eq«enee to him of <he tapoursto which he had been ei^posed. These observations cannot be re- ^ eonoUed to the account Pallas afterwards published of the exhalations fropn the stagnant lakes near Kosiof; as he says fvol. II. p. 489-3 ^^^y contrib- ute greatly to the' salubrity of the town, ana that intermitting fe^eniare^ less freqjuenJt there,, tiian at. olh£Fe]aoe& 8^0 olarke's travels m tartary.. hides, the exportation, of which> at that time, wtLS strietlf prohibited. Koslof^ takes its name from a Tartar <co^p€iii»d .Gu$iF ove^ the origin of which cannot be. distinctly ascertai^i^. 6^z7s signifies an eye, and ore^a bat. .The Unwana^ nvilh (heir usual ignorance of ancient geography, be^tixwed upon it the name of £up4^oHu7)i. It has been ajready skojvi'n Uial Eupatorium stood in the minor peninsnlaof the Hera^l^,- tee, near the city of Chersonesus. As to the presen^^iiit^ of the place itself, it is one of those wretched remnan^la of the onee flourishing, eommereial towns of the Crimea, wbiish exemplify the effects of Russian doniinioii. Its trade is anni- hilated, its houses in ruins; its streets desolate; thespiendid mosques, by which it was adorned, are unroofed^ and their minarets thrown doiwn 5 its original inhabitanta are either hanisbed or murdered 5 all that we found remaimit^were a few sneaking offieers of the police and oestoms, wttlihere. and there a solitary Turk or Tartar, smoking among die- ruins, and sighing over the devastation he beheld. Its com-* neree was onee of very. considerable importance. lt»port contained jBfty vessels at a time ; which number was great, f onsiderlng that theother ports of the Crimea had eaeh their portion. We found that number redueed to one aoetdental, rotten brigantine, the precarious speculation of a few poor Turkish mariners, who, although common sailors on board, shared equally with the captain the profit of the voyage. In better times, .Koslof, from her crowded ahores, exported wool, butter, hides, £ur, and com. The corn has now risen to such a price that if is no longer an export ; the wool; fur, and hides, are prohibited. In short, as a commercial to\^n it exists no longer. The only ship, which had left, the port previous to our arrival, sailed^ith a determination to retora no more ; not only on account of the length of time whieh * *< At Koslof, 01* Eupatoria, I remember nothing interestitig ; bqt, 4&' the desert nfear it, we saw some paiiies of the Nagay Tartars, and had an opportunity of examining their Kibitkas, which are shaped something like a brakin, consisting of a frame of wood, covered with felt, and placed npon wheels. They are smaller and more clumsy than the tents of the Kalmucks, and do nOt$ like tJ^iem^ take to picocfi. In the Crimea^ they are more used for the occasional habitation of the shepherd, than for I'egular dwellings. We saw a great many buffaloes and camels; sereral of the latter we met drawing in the two-wheeled carta^ described before, a ser- Tice for which 1 should have thought them not so well ada|)ted as for bear- ing burdens; «nd, although * a charriot ofcameW is mentioned by Isaiah^ I do not remember having, heard of such a practice elsewhere. The plain of Koslof is hardly elevated above, the sea. and fresh, water is very scaroQ and bad." Mek^^^MS.J^uvMl FROM THE ORIHEA TO NIOHOLAEF. 881 had been reqnired'in procuring a cargo, but from thcbribe- ty and corruption it was necessary to support and counte- nanee in order to get away.* * In returning to Akmetchet, we stopped to water our hor- ses in the steppes^ where the dwellings were entirely subter- ranean; Not a house was to be seen ; but there were some holes^ as entrances^ in the ground, throue;h one of which we descended to a cave, rendered almost suffocating by the heat of a stove for dressing the rictuals of its poor owners. The n^alhi, floor, and roof, were all of tbe natural soil. If such retreats were the original abodes of mankind, they borrowed therart of constructing habitations from badgers, foxes, and rabbits. At present, such dwellings are prihetpally, if not solely, tenanted by sYiepherds of the Crimea ; who dig them to serve as places of residence daring winter. Having failed in the4>bjeet of our journey to Koslof^ we* prepared to leave the peninsula by another route, anch at- tenrpt a journey by land to Constantinople. For this pur- pose we despatched letters to our ambassadour at the porte^ requesting an escort of Janissaries to meet us at Yassa- The evening, before we took our final leave of Akmetchet, was enlivened by the company and eonvergattonr of marshal Biberstein, a literary friend of the professor's, who had beeu^ recently travelling along the Volga, the shores of the Caspi- an, and in Caucasus. He was two years an exile in the isle of Taman, where he had amused himself with the study of botany, and the antiquities of the country. He brought several new plants to the professor; and confirmed the ob- servations we bad before made upon the Cimmerian Bos- porus. I had, moreover, the satisfaction to find, that tile map I had prepared to illustrate' the ancient geography of the Crimea, agreed with his own observations upon that subjeet. In answer to our inquiries Qoncerning the relative height of the Caucasian chain of mountains, tie said, that the Alps are no where so elevated ; and mentioned Mount * Palks's account of Koslof is only applicabte to its former state. . ^* Xa tlie year 1793, for inst|inoe, one hundred and seventy sis yessels were freigbied with eom, salt, and leather; and the short route* by which goods are conveyed hither by the Nagay8,.and the Tartars inhabiting the banks of the Dneiper, aifords the greatest facility to the com trade/*- Travels, vol. II. p. 49 1. This town is. thus mentioned by B^oniovius ? " Ceslovia oppidum ad dextram Perecopia ad mare situm milliatihi^ 9eptem dletat. Eniporio non igmbiU^ in^cefectum arcis et oppidi Chanuff proprium et perpetuwn ibi habet." Desoriptio Tartaric, p. 25S Uva:. Bat.l630» . 6Sd «LARKi:'s TRAVELS IN TAHTART. Ckat,*^% higher than Mont Ehanc* Beins^questioiied aiioiit the tribe of the Turcomanni^ now eatled by the Iraitms Tvrkmen^ and TrUckmeiixi ; he described.! hem as & vaeeof veryrieh nomades, still ntiinerous in the sfejpj^es near Astva* ehan : remarkable fop the beauty «f their persons^ as \Kell «$ Ibr their patient endurance of the unjust taxes, and. heavy exactions by \fhieh the neighbouring governours oppress them.. The equinox hrooght M^ith it a series of tempestitcNW weather, whieh eontinued until the tenth of Oetober*^ On that day, the violence of the wind having subsidedi and a second i»jmnier ensuing, we took final leave of our friend ; quitting for ever their hospitable society. Professor Pallas set oat for his vineyards at Sudak,t and^we took oar route aeroBS the steppes towards Perecop; The late storms had de- ,stroyed even the small produce of the vines upon the coast, .which the locusts had spared. Some fruit trees put forth a premature blossom; and we found the plains covered with the gaudy and beautiful flowers ef the autumnal croeus. Their bulbs were very deep in the soil^ which consists of a . rich, black, vegetable earth. The Tauriean chain of moun- tain^, with the summit of Tehetirdagh towering above the yest, appeared very conspicuous towards the south. To- wards ihQ north the whole country exhibited a boitndless fiat plain, across whieh caravans passing, laden with water- melons, cucumbers, cabbages, and other vegetables, were, with the exceptions of ancient tumuth almost the only ob- jects we encountered. Some of the vehicles were drawn by camels, and principally destined for Koslof. We trarelled all night, and in the morning, at sunrise, were roused by our interpreter, a Greek, who begged we woulil observe an ani- mal half flying and half running among the herbs. It was a jerboa, the quadruped already noticed iuaformer ehapier.| We caug!«. it with some difficulty, and should not hi^ve sae- • Now called JEJWoru* by the Circassians, according to its ancient natne. • It has two i>oints at its suromit^ and is visible from the fortress of Stavro- • pote, on the Caucasian tine, a distance of three hundred versts. Its base descends into a swam{>y, impassable plain ; and this plaiu,equftls, in elcTS- tion, the tops of the neighbouring mountains. f Anciently liS'jiyto^, Sogdai, Sudagra, and Sugdaia. This city row to such celebrity by its commerce, that all the Greek possessions in tfc? Crimea were called Sugdania ^Starch, torn. l,p. 172.1 It had n triple fortress, and is noticed by Broniovius and Thuaaus. See the addiSiond riotes at the end of the volume, ' \ 9c« p. 305j of this Tolum<^. tMH. TUB 0^m%^ rd KIOHOLAEf. .^^99 eeeded^^bot for tfaereracking of a large whip^the noise 6f mhAnih terrified it so aiueh that it lost all reeoUeetiim of Hm 4iiirrow. ^ Its leaps were extraordiaary for so small an ani-' mal f sooietimes to Uie distattee of six or eight yards^ bat in ne determitiate; direetioTi; it bounded baekward&> and forwards, without ever^ quitting the vicitiity of the placd mhtifp it was: found. Tbe inost singular eireumst&ncein it* nature is the power it possesses of altering its course when l#'theair/ It first leaps perpendicularly from the ground to the height of four feet or more; and then, by a, Qiotion «f 4ts taii^wfth a clicking noise, strikes off in Vvhatever d^irection it chooses. - 'By. the appearance which Perecop* makes in all the maps it might be expected that a tolerable fortress would be found there to- guard the passage of the isthmus* Yet nothing more * " At Perekop are only one or two houses, inhabited hy the post" tnaster atid custom-house officers, arid a little barrack. Thefemoiis Vail 'i# of earth, very lofty; ^ith an immense ditch. It sketches in a straight Jine.from-9e|i to sea, without any remains of bastions or flanking-towers that Icoald disirover. The Golden Gate 13 narrow, and too low for an English wagon. Golden, among the Tartars, seems s^'nonyroons with royal f and thus we hear of the Gfe^cfen horde, the Golden-teat, &«, Colonel Symes mentions the same manner of expression in Ava; so that l.anppose it is common all over the east. There is on^y one well at Pere- kopj the water of which is brakish and ninddy^ A string of near two hun- dred klbitkad were passing, laden with salt, anddrawri by oxen^ they were ^^iven by Malo-Russiansjwho had brougbt corn into the Crimea, and were . returning withthpir present eargi). White,or clarified salt is unknown ib all the south of Russia ; it appears, even on the best tables, with the great- er part of its impurities adhering, and consequently quite brown. Kibitkas laden with this commodity form a kind of caravan. They seldom go out of* their \way for a town or^ village, but perform lon^ journeys, the drivers only sheltered at night on the lee-side of their fcarriages, and stretched on . the grass'. During the independence of the Crimea, an old officer told me these people' were always armed, awl travelled without fear t>f theTartars, ^drawing up their wagons every night in a cirele^ and -keeping I'egular sen- tries. A^Te here^ with great regret, quitted the Crimea and »ts pleasing in- habitants ; it was really like being turned out of Paradise, when we aban- doned those beautiful mountains, and again found ourseltes ift the vast green desert, which^had before tired us so thoroughly, where we changed olivet and cypresses^ clear waterj and fresh milk, for reeds, long grass, and the drainings of marshes, only made not poisonous by being mixed with brandy ; and, when instead of a clean carpet at night, «id a supper of eggs^ butter, hoiiey, and sweetmeats, we returned to the seat of our carriage^ and the remainder of our old xjheese. ** PaUas has properly xlistinguisbed the two distinct races of Tartars, the Nogays^nd the inotintaineers. These last, howevc^', appeared to m,c to resemble in their persons the Turks and the Tartars of Kostroma and Yaroslaf. They are a fair and handsome people, like tire Tartars in the north of Rassia, given to agriculture and commerce, and here as v^ell as there decidedly different from the Nogays, or other IViongul tribes. The Nogayi, however, iu the Crimea^ appear to have greatly impooted their d84> GtABK£'s TRAVEI^S IN TA^RTAKT* wretch^ ean be imaeinecl than the hamlet whieh snmliev a few worn-out invaudg with quarters. ^ very ineona^aeca- ble rampart extends from sea to sea, the distance across the isthmus in the narrowest part scarcely exceeding five miles^ the water being visible from the middle of the passage on either side. On the north side of this rampart is a, fosse twelve fathoms wide, and twenty five feet deepj bnt it is dry^ breed by intermarmges with the original inhabitaata^ being muchhandao" roer and taller than those to the norUi of The Golden Gate. THe moon- taineershaTe large, bushy be&rds when old ; the Tartars of th& plain sel- dom possess more than a few thin hairs. The mountaineers are clomay horsemen, in which they resemble the northern Tartars. Their ueigh- Yioors ride very boldly and well. I had an opiiortunity of seeing two Kogar shephewl-boys, who were galloping their hoi-ses near KosloS and vho showed an s^lity and dexterity wmch were really surprising. WHiit the horse was in full speed they sprung from their seats, stood upright ott the saddle, leapt on the ground, and again into the saddle, and tiirew their whips to some distance, and caught them up from the ground. What •was mpre remarlrable, we ascertsunied that they were merely .shepherds and that these accomplishments were not extraordinary. Both mountain- eers and shepherds, are amiable, gentle, and hospitable, extept nvherz theji have peeft soured by their Jiusaictn masters. • We ne^er approached a Tillage at night>fall, where we were not requested to lodge ; or in the daytime, without being invited to eat and drink : and while they were thus attentive, they uniformly seemed careless about payment even for the lior8es.diey furaished; never counting the money, and often offering to go away without it. They are steady in refusing Russian moneys and it is necessaiy to procure a sufficient stock of usluks, paras, and sequins. This is not their only way of showing their dislike to their new masters. At on« village we were surprised at our scanty fare, and the reluctance with which eveiT thing was furnished, till .we leai'nt they had Tnistaken ua for Russian officers. On finding that we were foreigners, the egga, melted butter, nardek, and bekmess, came in profusion. General Bardakof told us they were fond of talking politicks ; when we addressed them on this subject they were reserved, and affected an ignorance greater than .1 thought likely or natural. Pallas complained of them as disaffi^ted, and spoke much of their idleness. Yet their vineyards are very neatly kept, anid carefully watered ; a)id) what is hardly a sign of indolence, their houaeS)*^ elothes and persons, are uniformly «lean. But his account jeemed to me by no means j^ifictentl;^ favourable. They ar.e> I apprehend, a healthy race ; but we met one instance where a slight wound had, by neglect, be- eome very painful and dangerous. On asking what remedies they hc^ for diseases, they returned a remarkable answer : " We lay do-wn the sick man «n a bed, and, if it please God, he recovers. Allah Kerim /" Their wo- men are concealed : even more (the D. of Richelieu said) than the wives •f Turkish peasants ; and are greatly agitated and distressed if isecn, for a moment, without a veil. like the men, they have very fur and clear complexions, with dark eyes and hair, and aquiline noses. Among the men were some figures which might have served for models of a Hercules; and the mountaineers have a very Strong and nimble step iii walking. Aa Imaom, who w«ars a green turban, and who is also generally the school- master is in every village. Not many, however, of the peasants coald read or write ; and they seemed to pay but little attention to the resQlar hours of prayer.'* Meber'a MS. Jdurfutl TAOVt THK OHIMEA TO KIOHOIAE^. SBS' and ilesthute of ariy-Vneans by which it may be intfnd&ted. Tfiei^st of the fortification, which' was originally a Turkish w^fk, is fii a 6tate of negtect and ruin. The air of the place is veijf bad ; in consequence of which the inhabitants of the nef4;hb6uring hamiets, who are chiefly disbanded soldiers^^ stiifer materiaHy from intermitting fevers.* Strabo, with that extraordinary accuracy which characterizes every page of his writing that relate to the Crimea, states the breadth of the istbmns as equal to forty stadia ;t and it is, as has been st^edy rMh^r more than five miles, which would exactly ae» cord with his description. That the waters of the Black Sea anditheseaof Azof do annually sustain a certain diminution^ muy be proved by the ph«nomena observable on all the northwestern shores : it is, therefore, natural to conclude the isthmus has increased proportionally since the time in which Btrabo wrote. By refereiice to documents of yet higher antiquity, it might be made to appear that the peninsula itself wals once an island ; and it is to. such historjcal passages, in^ the writings of the ancients, that Pliny relbrs in his aecoimt of the CheWonesus, by the following passage 5I " Ftom Car^ cinftes begins Tauricaj once surrounded by the sea^ which covered M the champaign part af i^." The constant draining of the great eastern flood at length left visible the vast cal- eareous deposit, aceunaulated during so many 4ges, and which now constitutes those extensive plains in the south of Russia, joined by the isthraas of Perecop to the steppes of the Crimea. If we suppose the waters of the Black 8ea to be restored ottly to the level of thosie layers of marine shells, which may be traced all the way from the mouths of th6 Brtieper to those of the Don, still retaining their perfect, forms, and modified only by a mineral process, the Crimea will appear again an island, visible only amidst an expanse of ocean^ by those loftier masses of calcareous rcvcks upon its southern coast. * I confess rnysdf much at a loss to, explain the remarks made by Pal* *a8 [^vol. II. p. 4693 concerning the air of this place, and of Kostof. He says the saline effluvia from the iSjvoM correct the otherwise unwholesome nature of the. atmosphere ; yet the bad health of the inhabitants is directly in contradiction of that statement. And again, in p. 9> of the same toI- uroe : *« During the prevalence of east windsu a disagreeable smell from the Sivcish. or, JPutrid Sea, is strongly perceived at Perecop. It is, never- theless, bdieved. that these vapours preserve the inhabitants from thosQ intermittent fevers, which were formeriy very frequent in the Crimea/* , t Stt-ab. Geog. Hb. vii. p. 445. ed Oxon. * i Plin. Hist. Kat. tib. iv. e. 19. S86 CtA&KB*9 TRAVELS IN TARTAHT. Throughout the whole summer, Pereeop* is a seene of great bustle and commeree. The shores of the isthmus, and all the ueighbourinc^ steppes^ are covered with earavans comint; for salt, eonsistin^ ^ wa^ns drawn sometiines by camels, but generally by white oxen, from two to six in eaeh Tehicle, Their freight is so easily obtained, that they have only to drive the wagons axle-deep, into the shallow water on the eastern side of the isthmus, and load as fast as they please^ the salt lying like sand. The sight of so many hundred wagons, by fifties at a time in the water, is Tery striking; they appear like fleets of small boats. floating upon the surface of the waves. The driver of each wag- on pays a^tax of ten roubles to the crown. There are va- rious reservoirs of salt in the Crimea; but those of Pere- eop, used from time immemmorial, are the most abnndantf and they are considered as Inexhaustible. Taurica was the f mporiunr of this commodity in the earliest periods of his- tory ; and it was then sent as it is now, by the Black Sea to Constantinople, and to the Archipelaso, by land to Poland fuid over all Russia, to Moscow, to Petersburgh, and eyen lo Riga. The oxen^ after their long journey, are some- times sold with the cargoes they have brought, and some- times tb^y return again, the whole of that immense dis« tanoe, with other merchandise. The caravans halt every •evening at sunset, when their drivers turn the oxen loose to graze, and lie down tliemselves^ in the open air, to pass the Bight upon the steppe. We noticed one, among matfy S groups of this kind, which was remarkably ioteriestiug, ecause it possessed the novelty of a female,t whose fea- tures we were allowed to contemplate. She was preparing with her ehild to pass the night upon the grass of tl^ H-ep- S, preferring the canopy of heaven to that of the ^odjitr.t er companions were of a wild, but equivocal race, ib • *« Perecop is a Russian word signifyiiig An Intrenchment of the isfli- mus: the Tartar i^aiyie of- this place is Or-Kapy, denoting The Gate of the Fortification.'* Pallas^s Travels, voL ll. p. 5. Upon this subject Broniovius is also very explicit. *« JSTamen JPracopentes d fitsa habtfU; nam Pkbzecop ipsormn linguA fossam BigrdficatP DescHpt. Tartar. p. 824. ed. Lag', Bat, 1630. See also his further observations in the ad- ^tio(nal notes at the end of the volume. t « Tattari mat muUerea in obdUtB temper tenent locia/* Miehal liituan. Fragment de Morib. Tartaionun. Lug, Bat. 1630. t The Tartar wagon, called Madjar^dv Ma^fftar,is always of the same form and materials; a long, narrow vehicle, supported hyfoarVdodcu wheels, without any iron attire. FROM THE CRIMEA TO NUttOLAEf. ^^ ^hieb the Tartar featnres appeaI:^d to predomuate, and ^ere elothed in eoat skins. Nothing can be more striking than the speetacie afforded by tUose immense caravans slow- ly advancing, each in one direct line by hundreds at a f ime, and presenting a picture of the internal commerce carried on by Russia throughout all parts of her vast empire. Another singoJar appearance at Perecop is aftorded by the eonfsourse of Nagay Tartars frequenting the market for the sale of water-melons ; a kind of fruit seen there of extraordinary size and perfection. They are a very dif- ferent people from the Tartars of the Crimea, and m^j be instantly distinguished by their diminutive form, and thte dark, Copper eolour of their complexion, which is some- times almost black. They hare a very remarkable resem- blance to the Laplanders, although their dress and manner has a more savage character, it is probable the Nag^X Tartar and the Laplander were originally of the same eo^r ony, difficult as it now is to deduce the eireumstanees of their origin.* The Crimean Tartar is a person of much mor^ stately demeanour, farther advanced in civilization^ of a V better figure, and often very engaging manners* A number of them annually leave the Crimea on a pilgrimage to Meca and Medina ; so that continual intercourse with other nations has contributed to their superior station in the general scale of society. A Crimean Tartar must either inake this Journey himself^once in his life, or send his rejr- resentative, and defray his ex|ienses. . Those pilgrims go &'st . to Constantinople, where the main body divides; a part choosipg the shortest I'oute to Alexandria, where they join the Egyptian caravan, and the rest proeeedine by the wayof Syria to Damascus, &c. The first route isliable to th^ greater inconvei^ence, as they sometimes suffer, two or three days on their march, from the want of water. The Syrian' route is therefore, generally preferred 5 in their way they visit Jerusalem, the river Jorda%^he Dead Sea, . • The snbjeot of their relationship might, however, have received cod- iiderable illustrataon, bud tbe learned writingg of Porthaa, professor of hbtory at the unif ersity of Abo, in FiiUaad, found tbeir way to tlm rest of Europe. Excluded by his sitaation from aU iutercoui-se with more en- ltgihtenedseminarieB,hi8iaboaraand his nafne have hardly reached the ^ars of any literary Bodbty; yet, should %is lucubrations surtive the"pres- ' ent deaolating scourge, with which those remote protvinces of SwfSfieD are affl^ted by the Russians, a brighter li^ht may beam upon the pages of his* tory,'«iid'the annals of mankind derive addmonal lustre from a B&tive of Finland, skilled in the language, the tnKtitioii»| and tbe loythology of his countrymen; asd £LAK!Ce's travels In tartary ftiid other parts of the Holy Land ; the Mohammedans en* tertaihiiig great veaerati<fn for the memory of Christ, whom they regard as a prophet, although not the Bon of God. f'ersons who hare completed this pilgrimage are dignified, on their return, with the title of Hadiy. In the isthmus we observed again tbe disgasfin«^ presence of the sort of toad, Rtina variabillis, which has been before noticed, and which swarms in all the territory bordering oa the Sivash or Putrid Sea^ to the east of the peninsula. They crawl even to the tops of the hills, near the Straits of Taman and generally indicate unwholesome air ; for, wherever the air is better than usual in the Crimea, this animal is proportionally rare. It burries itself in the earth, forming little holes, like the jerbo or rabbit. In the departure from Perecop, as well as in the approach to it, the sea is visible on both sides of the isthmus. A canal might easily be formed so as to insulate the' Crimea, and render it very difficult of approach on the Russian.side. We took a direction towards the' Dnieper, and, as before, 6ver plains exhibiting no particular trace in the soil which might be call(^d a road. Our different journeys in Taurica had made the whole peninsula familiar to our recollection; and we were amused by reflecting on the probable surprise a traveller would experience, who, after reading the infla- ted descriptions which have been published of its scenery, should pass he Isthmus of Perecop, and journey, durinea day and a half, without seeing any other symptoms of a harritable couuiry, or any objeei throughout a nat and bound- less desert, except the miserable peasants placed at the dif- ferent relays to supply hordes for the post. So narrovy ig the tract of cultivated land u, on the southern coast, that it may be compared to an edging of lace upon the lower, rim of a large apron. WitUuu; the inthmus the plains were covered by the caravans of sait, and e\'ery route filled, by them. For the rest; the appearance of the country wai precisely tiie same as in the nor'h of the Crimea. Our journey resembled that of De Uubruquis, in the thirteentb eentury, and might be fully described in very few of his »)»b words :— •• J)/\tlta est sytva, nuLlus ioons^ nuUistapis.^^ .The later flowers of autumn occasionally drew oiir attentioa froni an endeavour to get oyer it as fast as possible, and we eoUeeted several ; * among others, ain^^rabis and a Euphor- * '^cMlieapulfcacens; the Wooly MtlfoH; Campanula SidiHea, or Si- bemn Bell-flower ; Chtyaocoma vUloea, or Dawnv GoldUocks; Euphrattd orf<m^r«r»,RcaEyebrigiit, fee, , FROM THE qRlMBA TO KtCHOLABF. 389 Ka, whieb.jttarsbal Biberstein had exhibited at Akmetehet, from his own eolleciiion, as a new species found by him iu Caueasus^ and in the neighbourhood of Sarepta. The roadn u ere, as usual) exeellent, and throughout all the south of K(/«5ia, exeepting after heavy rain, the traveller may pro- ceed Mfith a degree of speed and faeility unknown in any other country. A journey from MoscovV to Zaritzin, As- traefiap^ and from theuee^ along the whole Caucassian line to the straits ©f Taman^ might be considered a mere sum- mer exeursi^n^ and^foT the most part, easier and pleasanter than an expedition through any part of Germany. The horses are always ready, of a superior quality ; and the turf, over which the roads lie, quite without parallel. The still greater expedition that may be used in the same country, iomnter)by travelling upoi\sledges, is already well known. Those roads which lead from the Crimea towards the north of Russia, are supposed to be infested with bands of desperate robbers, who inhabit the extensive deserts north of that peninsula. Stories of this kind rarely amount to more than idle reports. If credit were given to all that is related of th6 danger of journeying by this route, it would be madness to risk the attempt ; but few instances liave'ocr Qurred^ well attested, of any interruption or hVzard what- tuever. l^erhaps, before the Crimea was subject to Russia, liere was inore real foundation for alarm, because the coun- ry, in which the banditti are said to dwell, then constitu- ed the frontier of Ijittle Tartary ; and, in all parts of the /a!>e, frontiers are most liable to evils of this description, *om the facility of escape which they offer to tte pluu- 3rer or the assassin. From my own experience in almost ^ery part of £urope, after all the tales which I have beard ' the danger of travel ling in this or that country, I know ' place so full of peril as the environs of London, where inj persons, who traverse the roads at all hours of the y and night, with perfect indifference, would shrink from ; thoughts of an expedition across the deserts of Nasjay, the territory of the Don Cossacks. The Nagay Tar- Sf from their nomade life, are a wilder and more savage king people than thQse of the Crimea, being altogether insettied «nd as barbarous as the Calm ucks ; but their u pat ions are pastoral; and a pastoral state of society is lonoL characterized by cruelty or acts of open violf nee, , M'hile it is asserted that tfa^ir whole attention seems rn to the care of their docks and herds, it must be ao« Mill 999 CtARKE^S TRAVELS IN TAUTAKY» ]|Q»M'Iedged some facUare related, respecting the road from Moscow to Fereoop, which are too well authenticated to &4p)it of any dispute. About four years before we lefr ibe Crimea, the lady of admiral Mordvinof, who was traveiliDe that way, attended by a proper escort, especially provided U$ seeure her from danger, and a very numerous suite of domesticks, was -stopped by a formidable party of banditti who plunderd her equippage of every thing they considered worthy taking away. General Michelson, governour-gen- eral oi tlie Crimea, showed to me, at Akmetchet, a dreadful weapon which had been seized in the hands of a robber, who was lurking even in that neighbourhood. It consisted of a eaiiTion ball, a two pounder, slung at the extremity of a leather thong, which had a handle like that of a whip, by wliieh it might be hurled with prodigious force. But, af;cr all, it may be proved, that none of these deeds are the work af Tartars. I'he particular district said to be mo»t dangerous in all the road from Moscow to Perecop, is that whieh lies between Kremenchak. and Ekaterinoslaf upon the frontiers of Poland. The robbers hitherto taken were invariably from that neighbourhood, and were inhabitants of the Tcherno Laes^ or Black Forest, generally from |he village of JZitnkoia; they are the remnant of the ZapO' ragz^sif * originally destiters and vagabonds from all na- tionti ; a tribe from whieh Potemkin selected those brave Cosi^acks, now known under the appellation of Teherno- morski, who inhabit Kuban Tartary. Many of them are Polish Jews^ ^nd among those, who were afterwards ap- prehended, of the party which had robbed admiral Mord- vinors lady, were certain Jews of this description. The house of admiral Mordvinof, situated aoiong the mountains of the Crimea, near Sudack, was also attacked during the lime we resided at Akmetchet ; but, as the admiral himself assured' me, evidently witli no other view than to carry off «ome of his poultry. The admiral had bee* engaged in frequent litigations with the Tartars concerning ths limits «f his estate, and, as this conduct rendered him unpopular among them, it perhaps exposed him to' depredations he would not otherwi;dC have encountered.. Having thus re- lated a few facts which came to my knowledge, affecting the character of the Tartars, and the danger of their coiiu- Krj, it may be amusing to add some examples of the stories * See p. ^29, of this voluine. FROM THE CRIMEA TO NianOLAEF. Sli currenVin the country ; these, thongh perhaps !es« aHthen- tick, are implicitly believed by Russians and other stranejers, and constitute ti fayourite topick of con versatioo. The first was related to roe by a general officer in the Russian service, the second I heard upon the road. ' Thechief of avery desperate gan^ of banditti, who had amassed considerable wealth, was tiken by a soldier, ami conducted to the governor of the province at Efcaterihoslaf. Great reward had been offered for the person of this man, and it was supposed he would, of course, be immediately [knouted. To the astonishment of the soldier, who had been the means of hfs apprehension, a few days only had elapsed when lie received a visit from the robber, who hatl 4)een able to pay the govemour a hribe sufficient to protsare his release, in consequence o^>vhieh he had been liberated from confinement. « You have caught me," said he, ad- .dressing the soldier, " this time ; but before you set out up- dn another expedition in search of me, I will aceommjodate you with a pair of red boot$* for the journey.'' With this terrible threat he made hi» escape, and no fnrther inquiry on the part of the police was made afLer him. The undannt- ied soldier, finding the little eonfideuee that could be placed in his eommander, determined to take the administration of justice into his own hands, and once more adventured in pursuit of the robber, whose flight bad spread terrour through the country; After an undertaking, full of duit- gfer, he found him in one of the little subterranean h«t»fn the midst of the steppes ; and, entering wrth his pistob in hrs hand, " you promised me,'' said fie, " a pair of re<l boots; ,1 am •?ome to be measured for them !" With these 'tyords he discharged one of his pistols, anid killing the rob- lier on the spot, returned to his quarters. The picture this offers of the corruption prevailing among govemours and officers of justice in Russia, is correct; as^or the story it- self it may be also true : it is given as it was r«cei\'^d, from those who considered its veracity indisputable. The next anecdote relates to a circumstance which hap- pened in the road between Kremenchiik and Ekaterinoslaf, and affords an instance of remarkable intrepidity in one * To give a m^n a pairof red baots, accoixJing to tbe sajring of. the Tar- tars^ is to cat the skin round the upper yart of hU legs, and then pause it to he toru off hy the feet. This species of torture the banditti are said to practise, as an act of revepge ;. in the same manner the American Indians ftcalp tbe heads of their enemies. 9$A GLAREB's travels in TAS.TAR7« •f the Feldlegers^ or eouriers of th^ crown^ A person ef this deseription was ioyrnejii^ from Cherson to KreineB* chuk, by a route much infe&ted with banditti. He was caa^ tioned a§;ainst taking a particular road, on aeeountof tl^e Bumerous robberies and murders wbieh had lately takf^ pJaee; and the more so, in consequence of a report (hat the robbers wer^ actually there encamped, plundering {ill who attempted to pass. Orders had been siven, lbat» wJiieF- ever these banditti were found,. they should be shot withqnj; trial. /The courier, however, proceeded on his journey i» a Favo^sfcy* and presently obser?ed four men hastily «q* tvrins a tent near the road. Almost at the same jjistant the driver of the pavoysky declared there was a £fth eon^ cealed in a ditch by which they passed $ but, as it was dusky^ and the object not clearly discerned^ ihey both left the pa- roy sky to examine it. To th^ir surprise and horroar^ thej found the body of a man, who, had been murdered,^ j$t^ji warm, A light appeared within the teut, and the iSQurier^ de^irin^ the postiliou to remain quiet with the yehieie,.walkr cd boldly towards it. As soon as he entered, he asked the m^n within if he might be allowed a glass of brandy } be- ing answered in the affirmative, he added : ^^ Stay a little, 1 will Just step to the pavoysky and bring something for as to eat ^ yeu shall find the drink. It was now quite dark, and the courier, who had well observed the number a&d disposition of the men within the tent, returned to the par. vpysky, M'hen, having armed the postilion and himself bv means of a blunderbuss, two pistols^ and a sabre, he toos the bleeding carcase, on his shoulders, and advanced oQee more towards the teni;. The unsuspecting robbers had seat- ed themselves round the fire, with their pipes lighted, ajud, their arms suspended above their heads. The courier, ia the very instant that he entered, cast the dead body into the midst of them, exelaiming ; << There's the s«rt of food for your palates !'' and, before a moment was allowed them to recover from the surprise into which this had thrown them, a discharge from the blunderbuss killed two of the four; a third received a pistol-shot^ with a cut from the sabre, but survived his wounds, and was taken bound to Kremenchuk, where he suffered the knout. The fourth made his ^escape. Of such a nature are the tales which a traveller, in this country, may expect to hear continually • A small foor-wheeled trsffon ; used, diirisg summer, a$ a sal»ftit«t6 tor the Ki^itkft. ntOH THE 0RIMEA TO NIGHOLABF. t%i ielated bjr hew settlers in tlie Crimea and tile Ukfaioe. I oanHot ^ive much credit to any of them ; and must confess I sboam not bQ surprised to hear the same stories repeat^ in otlief Countries, as having happened wherever banditti are^suppdsed to infest the pobUck roadis. Bein^ unacquainted with the topography of Biroslaf^ and having no map in which it was laid doivn, I find it impos- siMe to give an accurate description of the different streams and lakes of water? which we passed in order to reach that place. The inhabitants were even more ignorant than my • self. Before we arrived, we traversed an extensive tract ©f sand, apparently insulated. This, we were told, was often inundiEited, and boats were then stationed to conduct travellers^. Having crdssed this sandy district, we parsed the Dnieper by a ferry, and ascended its steep occidetittCl banks to the town. The conveyance of caravans upon the siands I have mentioned,^ was eftected with great diniculty'; each w&gott requiring no less a number of oxen than eight or twelve, and even these seemed hiirdly adequate to the im- mense '^labour of the draft. All the way from Perecop to B]roslaf,the line of caravans continued almost without in- termission. The immense concourse* of wagons, the belr lowing of the oxen, the bawling and grotesque appearance of the drivers^ and the crowd of persons, in the habits of many different nations, waiting a passage across the watier, i>ffeiied one of those singular scenes to which, in other coun- tries, there is nothing similar,* and convey, at the same time, notions of the internal commerce of Russia, which etherwise might scarcely be credited. Birdslaf, upon the western side of the Dnieper, is a mise- rable looking place, and owes its support entirely' to the passage of the salt caravans from the Crimea.^ It might be *. '* Benslavis a small towti, foondj&d'oii a regcdar pkn.br the em]^re«» Catharine, on a fine, sloping bank near, the Dnieper, with k floating hndg^» which is removed every winter. The river, like the Don, is navigated in . double canoes, composed of two v6ry narrow ones, often hollowed out of trees, and united by a stage. The town has Wide streets, at right anries to 6ach otfaer^ but. the houses are mostly miserable, wooden huts. The country around is all good land, but destitute of water. There are, how- ever, many villages, and many acres of cultivated land along the banks of the river ; and wherever there is a well, is generally ft small eluster of ' houses, attracted by such a treasure. On this side of the Dnieper begins the regular series of Jews' houses, which are the only taverns or inns from j^ence all the way into Austria. Jews, in every part of Little and New Russia, abound. In Hoseovy they are very tueommoa." Beheft MS^ Journal, 89* CLARKE'S TRAVELS IN TARTARY. suspected that its situation, upon so considerable a river? affordi)!^ it'an intercourse with Kiof aud Cherson, woald entitle it to hit^her consideration ; but. we could obtain no information, worth repeating, upon the existence of any sack commerce. We observed the Polish costume very prevalent here ; the men, in every respect, resembling the Cossacks of the Don. The appearance of boatmen, stalking? in the mud with boots of Morocco leather, was qaite new to us; althou2;h the Tartars of the Crimea frequently appear with the same covering upon their feet. To describe the road between Biroslaf* and Chersnn, would put the reader's patience to a very unnecessary trial, by a repetition of observations already, perhaps, too often made ; and would give to these pages a monotonous cha- racter of the steppesy over which it was made. Before we reached the last post, we passed a considerable surface d ^stagnant water, whether derived from the Dnieper or not, we could not then learn ; neither would any map we carried with us inform us. The very sight of it was suffieient to convince us of the dangerous nature of the situation ; and our servant was attacked by a violent fever in consequence of the unwholesome air. We preserved ourselves by smoking; hut this will not always serve as a preventive. However unexpected an obligation might be conferred upon English travellers by any of the imperial family of Russia, we were certainly indebted to the grand duke (3od< stantine'for the exeellent aeeommodations we found in Cher- son ; although we are ready to acquit his highness of aoj intention favourable to onr reception there, or atiy where else. Arriving in the night we were conducted to an inO) where, to our astonishment, we beheld a degree of cleanli- ness, and a display of luxury, wholly unaccountable. The master of the house, an Italian, observing the surprise ^ manifested, told as that his rooms were prepared for a mas- querade, for the celebration of which ne expected order* upon the arrival of his highness, notwithstanding the alarm which the mere report of his coming had spread through- out the country. The arrival of a Tiberius, a Nero, or any * At Biroslaf we collected the following plants : Achillea nobiUs. o- eommon catnotnile ; Jlrtemiaia pontica, hoary wormwood \ ABpenil- long^iflora^ long flowered squinancy-won [waldstein-.] Scabiosa teuean^ tha, white-flowered soahious; Scutellaria gulericuiata, sfcuflHsap-; a^S^' hrium Colwnrne Italian hedge-mustard ; Stipa capittata, hair-like feather- SV9M r J^otentilla ar^entea, silvery goose-grass ; Anchusa officinaMttQVs^ mon buj^loss Ce?iiaurea paniculata, branching knapweed. TROM THE CRIMEA TO NICHOLAEF. 3^5 other more detestable tyrant of ancient Rome, never dififnaed more general panick tfian y^eL^^ felt in Cherson at this time. C'lierson, founded in l778, was formerly a town of much more importance than it is now.* Potemkin bestowed upon it many instances of patronage, and was partial to the place. Its fortress and arsenal were erected by hinr. We found its (Commerce so completely annihilated, that its mercliants ivere either bankrupts, or were preparing to leave the town, and establish themselves elsewhere. They complained of being abandoned by. the emperour, who refiised to grant them any support or privilege. Without the. smallest in- clination to write an apology for the emperour Paul, 1 can- not possibly admit that Cherson, by any grant of the erown^ could become a great commercial establishment ^ and it is quite incomprehensible hovy such a notion was ever atlopled.t • " Cherson ia gradually sinking into decay, from the dnhealthiness of its ^itudtion, and still tnui e Trora the preference givea to Odessa* Yet limber, com, hemp, and other articles of exportation, are so much cheap- er and more plentiful here, that many foreign vessels still prefer this port, thougii they are ohliged by gorernment first to perlbrm quarantine, and Dnioad their .cargoes at Odessa. Corn is cheap and plentiful, but timber much dearer than in the north, as the cataracts of tliii Dnieper generally Impede its being floated down. There is a noble forest which we saw in Podoita, not fi|r from the Bog, a beautiful river, unincum'brt'ed by cataracts ; Lut as some laud-cacriage ivouM be neeessiiry, it is, aft yet, almost -* intactA fecuri.'* The arsenal at Cherson is extensive and interesting. It contains a monument to Potemkinj its founder. Two frigates and a seventy fpur ^ere ba'ilding; on aeoount of the bar, they arc floated down to the Liman on camels, as at Petershurgh. Nothing can be more dreary than the pros« pect of the river, which forms many streams flowing through marshy islands where the masts of vessfls are see li rising fronj amid brush-wood and tall i*eeds. In these islands are many m ild boars, which are often seen swimming from one to the other. ^ No foreign merchants, of any cotmc- iqHH'nce, remain here; those who transact basin^ss at this court, do it by ciei'ks and supercargoes. My information respecting Cherson was chiefly from a StJOtchinan named Geddea. The tomb of Howard is in the desert, about a mile from the town ; it was built by admiral Mordwtnof, and is a Maallbrick pyramid, .whitewashed, but. vithiwt any inaoription; He him- self fixed on the spot of his interment, lie had built a small hut. on tliia part of the steppe, where he passed much of his time, as the most healthy •pot in the neighbourhood. The English burial service was read over him Uy adnQiral Priestmau* from whpro I had these t»artrculars; Two small villas have been built at no great distance ; 1 suppose also from the healthi- ness of the siuiation, as it hatl notlii^g else to I'ecomincnd it. Howai-d was ^oken of with exceeding i-espeot and afifection, bv all who remembered, or knew him ; and they were many." Hebci'^s MS. Journal. . f Scherer's promising view of its importanoe might have led to other hopes ; but that author's prognostication of Che advantages which Russua jpight derivefrom the possession of the Crimea, has proved equally fallible ; speaking, however, of the eommerce of Cherson, in 1786, he says: ** Dana /<? C9un de V awi^e 178Cs 9a n<wi^ation9ccupoitccnt trente^imb^timensp 396 CLARBB's TRAVEtS IK TARTARY. • The mouth of the Dnieper is extremely difficult to navigate; sometimes northeast winds leave it full of shallows, and, ^vhere there happens at any time to be a channel for vessels, it has not a greater depth of water than five feet | the en- trance is, at the same time, excessively narrow. The sands are continually shifting, which renders the place so dan- gerous, that ships are rarely seen in the harbour. But the last blow to the commerce of Cherson, 'was given by the war of Russia with France. Before that event, the exporta- tion of com, of hemp, and canvass, had placed the town upon a scale of some consideration. All the ports of Russia, in the Black Sea, were more or less affected by the same cause; and particularly Taganrock, which had received a very furious check in consequence of the state of affairs with France.f ' The architecture visiWe in the buildings of the fortress, showed a good taste ; the stone used for their construction resembled that porous, though durable limestone, which the fii'st Grecian colonies in Italy employed in eredtinc the tem- ples of Psestum ; but the Russians had wliite- washed every thing, and by that means had given to their works the mean- ness of plaster. One of the first things we asked to see was the tomb of Potemkin. All Europe has heard that he was buried in Cherson,.and a magnificent sepulchre might natu^ rally be expected for a person so renowned. The reader will imagine our surprise, when, in answer to our inquiries eon* eerning his' remains, we were told that no one knew what was become of them. Potemkin, the illustrious, the powerful, of all the princes that ever lived the most princely, of all imperial favourites the mostfavoured, had not a spot which nrrght be called his grave. He, who not only governed all Russia, but even made the haughty Catheiine his suppliant mvoir, quatre-viiigt'douze. Ottomana, trente'deux Russes, ei.aept^tUri' ehienSi, JJ importation consistoit ^nfruit&y vOis, cab^Uau, meudles, &c. Et r exportation, enfrornhnt, aavon, chanvres, f urine, fer, laineSy Hn^ wrdag-eSf tabac, bttis, &c» Hisioire raisonn^e da Comm. de Ift ROss. parScherer. tom.II. p 33. Pai'is, 1788. •\ Upon and near the banks of the Dnieper were the fottewiog plants; Aiyaattm montanum, mountain alysson xAnchusa officifiaUs, tommoD hug- loss ; Andropogon Ischeemum^ heard -.qrAss ; Antirrhinum' GenistifoUum, hroom-leaved snap-dragon ; Aster punctalus, dotted star- wort j[See Wildenow] Cucuhalus Ca//i(9/sc7^«, branching campion ; />«/^Atnt/m C(m>' tolida, branching larkspnr ; Euphorbia iegetalis^ field spurge ; PhyteU" ma caneffcen;,^ hoary rampion, with lai-ge purple flowers ; it was growing ata:ong the rocks, near the river [See WaWstein] JPolt/cnemttm arvenae ,- -Silene baccifira, bcrrr-hearing catch-fl/. FROM THE CRIMEA TO NICHOLAEF. 397 poorest of the human race. The particulars respecting the ultimate disposal of his bwly, as they were communicated te ine upon the spot by the most credible tesUmony, merit a cursory detail* The corpse, soon after his death,* was brought to CheN son and placed beqeath a dome of the small church belong- ing to the fortress, opposite to the altar. After the usual eeremopy of interment, the vault was merely covered by restoring to their former situation the planks of wood whicli constituted the floor of the building. Many of the inhab- itants,^ of Cberson, as wellies English officers in the Russian service, .who lived in its neighbourhood, ha4 seen the coffin which was extremely ordinai*y ; and the practice of showing it to strangers prevailed for some years after Potemkin's de- cease. The empress Catherine either bad, or pretended to have an intention of ericeting a superb monnment to his memo* rji whether at Cherson or elsewhere,is unknown. Her sudden death is believed to have prevented the completion of this design.- The most extraordinary part of the story remains now to be related^ the coffin itself has disappeared. In- stead of any answer to the various inquiries we made con- ceroing^it, we were cautioned to be sUfnt. " JVb onej^^ said a countryman of ours, living in the place, " dare mentiori the name of PotemJcin /" At last we received intelligence thai the verger could satisfy our curiosity, if we would ven- ture to ftsk liim. We soon found the means of encouraging a little communication on bis part; and were then told, that the body, by the emperour's command, had been taken up and thrown into the aitch of the fortress. The orders rei^eived w.ere, to take up the body of Potemkin, and cast itinto the first hole that might be found. These orders were impUcitly obeyed. A hole was dug in the fosse, into which be ^vas thrown with as little ceremony as a dead dog ; but, as this procedure took place in the nighty very few were in- formed of the fate of the body. An eye*witness assured me that the coffin no longer existed in the vault where it fvaa originally placed; and the verger was actually pro- ceeding to point out the place where the body was abandoned, >vhen the bishop himself happening to arrive, took away my guide; and, with menaces which were but too likely * PoteinVin died Oct- 15, 1791, aged 52, daring a journey from Yassy ita Jficliolacf ; and actttoUy ex^red in « /6/cA, near Uie former place, i a wlii.vh the attendants placed him, that he might recliRe- against its aloplr.g siTlc; being taken from the oarriitge for air. Nn S98 OLAUKE^S TRAVELS IK TAUTART. to be fulfil led, prevented our beitig more fully informe<l concernin^^ the obloquy which at present involves the re- mains of Potemkin. Let me now, therefore, direct the reader's attention to a more Interesting subject; te a narra- tive of the last days, the death, and burial of the benevolent Howard ; who, with a character forcibly opposed to that of Potemkin, also terminated a«;lorious career at Cherson. Mysterious Providence by events always remote from hu- man foresight, had wonderfully destined, that these two men, celebrated in their lives by the most contrasted deeds, should be interred nearly upon the same spot. It is not within tlie reach of possibility to bring together, side by side, two individuals more feiiiarkably characterized by every opposite quatiiication ; as ifthe hand of destiny had direeteil two persons, in whom were exemplified the extremes of vice and virtue, to one common spot, in order that the contrast might remain a lesson for mankind. Potemkin, bloated and pampered by every vice, after a path through life stained with blood and crimes, at last the victim of his own selfish excesses; Howard, a voluntary exile, enduring the severest privation for the benefit of his fellow -creatures, and labouring, even to his latest breath, in the exercise of evprv social virtue. The particulars of Mr. Howard's death were eommunt' eated to me by his two friends, admiral Mordvinof, then cliicf admiral of the Black Seafieet,and admira4 Priestman an English ofiicer in the Russian service; both of whom were eye-witnesses of his last moments. He had been en- treated to visit a lady aboiit twenty four miles* from Cher- son, who was dangerously ill. Mr. Howard objected, aHe- f>:ing that he acteil only as physician to the poor 5 but hear- i!jg of her imminent danger, he afterwards yielded to the porsunsion of admiral Mordvinof, and went to see her. xVf(er having prescribed that which he deemed proper te be administered, he returned, leaving directions with her fami- ly, to send for him again if she got better; but adding, that if, as he much feared, she should prove worse, it would be to no purpose. Some time after his return to Chergon, a fetter arrived, stating that the lady was better, and begging that he would come without loss of time. When he ex- amined the date, he pcreeiyed that the letter, by some un- aceountaljlc d?Iay, had been eight days in getting to }u» * T)»irfT five v«rst:S. FnOM THE CRIMEA TO XICHOLAEF. 39^ hamlsi. Ujioii this, lie resolved to g;o with all possible ex- pedition. The weather vvas extreoieJy tempestuous and very cold, it being late in the year, and the rain fell in tor- rents. In his impatience to set out, a conveyance not beinp; i ID medial t'ly ready, he mounted an old dray horse, used iti admiral Mordvinof^s family to carry natcr, and thus pro- eeedcd to visit his patient. Upon his arrival, he found the liidy dying; this added to the fatigue of the journey, aft'cei:- ed him so much, tliat it brought, on a fever, liis clothe«, at the same time, had been wet throuc;h; but he attributed his fever entirely to another cause. Having administered something to his patient to excite perspiration, as soon as the symptoms of it appeared, lie put hU hands beneath the bed clothes to feel her pulse,'that she miglit not be chilled by. removing them, and believed that her fever was thus eom:ininicated to hi:ri. After this pain Till Journey, Mr. Ho- ward returned to Cherson, and the lady died. It bad been almost his daily custom, at a certain hour, to visit admiral Priestman 5 when, with Lis usual atteut ion to regularity, he would place his watch on the table, and pas» exactly an hour with him in conversation. The adoMraf, finding that he failed in his usual visits, went to see him, and found him weak and ill, sitting before a stove in his bed- room. Having inquired after his health, Mr. Howard re- plied, that his end was approaching very fast : that he had several thinjjs to say to his friend, and thanked him for having called. The admiral finding him in such a melan- choly mood, endeavoured to turn the conversation^ imagin- ing the whole might be merely the result of low spirits; but Mr. Howard soon assured him it was otherwise; and ad- ded : " Priestman, you style this a very duil conversation,. ami endeavour to divert my jnind from dwellinp: upon d.eatii : hut I entertain very difterent sentiments. Death has lio terrours for*4ne: it is an event I always look to with cheer- fulness, if not wit^ pleasure; and be assured, tlie sutjjjct of it is to me more grateful than any other. I {\m well aware I have but a short time to live; my mode of life ha^ rendered it impossible that I should get rid of this fever, if 1 had lived as you do, eating heartily of animal food, and drinking wine, I mi^U, perhaps, by diminishing my diet he abk to subdae it. But how can such a man as I aai lower his diet, who has been accustomed for years to exist on vegetables and water, a little bread and a' little tea; I Itave DO method of lowering my iiaurishment^ and therefore 400 I must die. It ir such jolly fellows as yon, Priestmaii, ulio get. over these fevers."^ Then, turning the subject, he spoke of his funeral ; and eheerfuUy gave directions concerning the manner in which he would be ouried. « There is a spot," said he," near the village of Dauphigny, which would suit me nicely : you know it well, for 1 have often said I should like to be buried there; and Jet me beg of you, as you value your old friend, not to suffer any pomp to be used at my funeral; nor any monument or monumental inscription whatsoever, to mark where I am laid ; but lay me quietly in the earth, place a sun-dial over my grave, and let me be .forgotten." Having given these directions, he was very ear- nest in soliciting that admiral Priestman would lose no time in securing the object of his wishes; but go immediately and settle with the owner of the land for the place of his interment, and prepare every thing for his burial. The admiral left him upon bis melancholy errand, fear- ing at the same time^ as he himself informed nie, that the people would believe him crazy, to solicit a burying ground for a man who was then living, and whom no person yet knew to be indisposed. However, ie accompushed Mr. Howards wishes, and returned to him with the intelligences at this his countenance brightened, a gleam of evident sat- isfaction came over his face, and he prepared to go to bed. Soon after, he made his will, leaving as his executor a tragty follower, who had lived with him more in the capacity of a friend than of a servant, and whom lie charged with the conimission of bearing his will to England. It Ivas not un- til after he had finished his will, that any symptoms of de- lirium appeared. Admiral Priestman, who had left him for a short time, returned and found him sitting up in bis bed, adding what be believed to be a codicil to his will ; bat this consisted of several unconnected words, the chief part of Jivhich were illegible, and all without any meaning. This strange composition he desired admiral Priestman to wit- ness and sign ; and, in order to'please him, the admiral con- sented ; but wrote, his name, as he bluntly said, in Russian . characters, lest aiiy of bis friends in England, readins bis signature to such a codicil, should think he was also &lir- ious. After Mr. Howard had made what he conceived to be an addition to his ^ill, he became more composed. A let- ter was brought to him from England, containing intelli- gence of the improved state of his son's health; statins; the manner in which be passed his time in the country? aod FROM THB ORIHEA TO HICHOLAEF. 401 ^viof; great reason to hope that he would recover from the disorder with which he was afflictefl.* Hia servant read this letter aloud ; and, when he had concluded, Mr. How- ard turned his head tow«ards hin^ saying: ^< Is not this eom- ^ fort for a dying father r" He expressed great repugnance against being buried according to the rites of the Greek church; and begging admiral Priestmaij to prevent any in- terference with his intennent on the part of the Russian priests, made him also promise, that he would read the ser- vice of the ichnrch of England over his grave, and burj . him in all respects according to the forms of his coimtry. Soon after this last request he ceased to speak. Admiral Mordvinof came io, and found him dying very fast. They had in vain besought him to aflow a physician to be sent for ; but admiral Mordvinof renewing this solicitation with great earnestness, Mr. Howard assented by nodding his head. The physician came, but was too late to be of any sfervice. A rattling in the throat had commenced ; and the physician administered what is called the Musk draught, a medicine Hsed only in Hussia,, in the last extremity. It Was givea to the patient by admiral Mordvinof, who prevailed oia him to swallow a little; but he endeavoured to avoid the rest, and gave evident signs of disapprobation. He was then entirely given over ; and shortly after breathed his last. He had always refused to allow any portrait of himseir io be made; but after his death admiral Mordvinof caused a plaster mould to be foroied upon his face, which was sent to Mr. Wilberforce. A cast from this mould was in the ad- miral's possession when wp were in Cherson, and present- ed a very striking resfemblJince of his features. He was buried near the village of Dauphigny, about five verstsfrom Cherson, on the road to Nicholaef, in the spot he had himself chosen ; and his friend, admiral iPriestman, read the English burial service, according to his desire. The rest of his wishes were not exactly i'ulfilled; for thfe concourse of spectators were immense, and the order of his funeral was more magnificent than Would have met with his approbation. It was as folio >)»s: . . ' ' ■ / . - iv ' TheBody, on- a Bier, drawn by Six Horses with Ti'applngs, * Mr. Howard's son. laboured under an attat k of insaniif. 4p^ ^LARKK^S TRAVSLg 1» TARfARt* 2. . . The PttiKCB of Moldavia, in a sumptuous Carriage, drawn by Six Hoi'scs, coYere«l with Seariet Cletik. S. AdnuraU M obdvinof and Pribstmaw, in a Carriage drawn by Six Horses, " 4. The Gktehals and STAFF-OppiciRa of the Garrisoto^ in their respective Carringes. ... 5. The Magistrates and Merchants of Cherson, in their respectife Carriages. 6. A large Parfy of Cavalry. 7. Other Persons on Horseback. .8. An immense Concourse of Spectators and People on foot>.ainoui}tiBg to' Two or Three Thousand. A moiiiiment was afterwi&rds erected oyer him, which, in- stead of the sun«dial he had requested, consisted of a hrick pyramid, or ohelisk, surrounded by stooe posts with chains. This, of course, will not ions; survive the general destruc- tion of whatsoever is interesting in the country. The posts and chains began to disappear before our arrival ; and, when Mr. Heber visited the spot, not a vestige^ of them was to be seen ; there remained only the obelisk, in the midst of a bleak and desolate plain, before which a couple of dogs were gnawing the bones of a dead horse, whose putrifying carcase added to the disgust and horrour of the scene. A circum- stanee came to our knowledge before we. left Russia, con- cerning Howard's remains, which it is painful to relate; namely, that Count Vineent Potocki, a I'olish nobleman «f the highest taste and talents, whose magnificent libra- ry and museum would do honour to any country, through a mistaken design of testifying his respect for the memory of Howard, had signified his intention of taking up the body, that it might be conveyed to his country seat, where a sump- tuous monument has been prepared for its reception, upon a small island in the midst of a lake. His countess, being a romantick lady, wishes to have an annual /«Ye, consecra- ted to benevolence ; at which the nymphs of the country are to attend, and strew the place with flowers. This de- sign is so contrary to the earnest request of Mr. Howard, and, at the same time, so derogatory to the dignity due to his remains, that every friend to his memory will join in wishing it may never be ftxlfiiied. Count Potocki was ab* FKOiM THE CRIMEA tb NXOndLAEP. 4Q|( gent dmins the time we t^mained is that part of the World, or we should have ventured to remonstrate; we eould onlj, therefore^ entrust our petitions to a third person, who pro- mised to convey them to him after our departure. The distance from Cherson to Nicholaef is only sixty tw9 versts, or rather more than forty one miles. At the dis- tance of five versts from tlie former plaee, the road passes close.to the tomb of Howard. It may foe supposed we did not halt with indifference to view the hallowea spot. " To abstract the mind from all local emotion Would be impossi- ble if it were endeavoured, and it would be foolish if it ' were possible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of our.senses ; whatever makes the past, the distant, or the fu- ture predominate over the present, advances us in the dig;-' nity of thinking beings. Far be from me, and from my friends, that frigid philosophy which might conduct us in- different or unmoved over any ground that has been digni- fied by wisdom, bravery, or Virtue.'' So spake the sa^e, in words never to be forgotten; unenvied be the man who has not felt their force; lamented he who does not know their author ! ^ The town of Nicholaef, covering a great extent of terri- iory, with numerous buildings, intersected by wide streets makes a splendid and very considerable appearance.* The whole of it is of recent date. The river Bog, by whieh it stands, flows quite rouiid the place in a broad and ample channel. Ships of the line cannot come close to the build- ings on account of a sand bank ; but brigs and other small vessels are carried over by the floating machines called Camels, in use at Pete rsburgh, •and many other part» 'of Russia. The arsenals, storehouses, and other works, are so extensive, that it is evident great efforts have been made to render this place an emporium of high importance for the Russian navyl The aamiral-in-chief of the Black Sea, as well as the vice-admirals, reside here; and an ofiice is established for regulating all marine affairs belongine to the three ports, Chersoii, Odessa, and Nicholaef. The * Kieolaeif, on the Bog, is a rising .town, Terr adTantageoasly situated; being witiiout the bar of the Dnieper ; it is the station for vessels when buiity and here tliey an? laid up to be repaired. Nothing, I should think, but ibe expense ot ue* dock yaf^a induce^ government to pei-severe in their system of building vessels at Cherson, when this neighbouring town has so many superiour advantages. U«has a fiue river without either bar or cataract ; cleep, still water, ami a healthy situation. Vessels, howevesv ftre said to decay sooner than at Sebastop<^e«" Jklkt^M MS. JaurrHtk *•♦ (iLAIl|C£'« TRAVELf IN TARTART. piibliek buildings and palaces of the admirals aie verj statelr; and, congidering the short time that has elapsed since rl^icholaef was a miserable village^ the prog^ress made in the place is surprising. There is no town to compare with it in all the south of Russia, nor any in the empire, excepting Moscow and Petersburgh. Its elevated situation^ the magnificence of its river ; the regularity that has beeu observed in laying out the streets, and their extraordinary breadth ; the magnificence and number of the publiek works, with the flourishing state of its population, place it very high in the small catalogue of Russian towns. English omeers, and English engineers, with other foreigners in the Russian service, residing here, have introduced habits of urbanity, and cleanliness; and have served to correct, by the force of example, the barbarity of the native inhabitants. CHAPTER XXIV. FROM NICHOLAEF TO ODESSA. Memains of Olhiopolis — InscripHoris-r^MedaU^'^Mmiral Priestman — Mineralixed Shells — Obsevoations upon the Odessa Limestones-Consequences which resulted from the opening of the Thraeian Bosporus — Conduct of the Empe- . rour respecting- Odessa — dumber of discarded Officers — Usurious Practices of the Sove$*eign — Further Sccauntaf Odessa — Barbarous Etiquette observed at Russian Tables —^Anecdote of two Englishmen — Precaution to he used in Travelling— Account of the Passage by Land to Constan- tinople-^Preparationjor sailing from Odessa, SOME interesting antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood uf Nicholaef. To the south oi'the town, near the fall of the Bog into the Dnieper, there stood net long age a fortress, which the traditions of the country as- cribed to Alexander the Great. The emperour Pajil gave orders for its destruction; and the joyful Russians, ever happy in works of that kind, speedily removed every trace of its existenee. Not far from the same place, exactly at the jnnetion of the twa rivers about twelve miles from Nl- FROM NXCHOLAEF iro ODESSA. iOS eholaef, are the remains of OlHopoliSi the only Greek city of European Sarmatia, of whieh there is any aneient meidaly extant. The Russians have diseorered there not only medals, but also bas-reliefs, inscriptions, amphorse^ tombs^ and many other valuable indications of the site of that city* A view of those ruins would have afforded us th« highest, gratification ; but the circumstances of our situa- tion w^iufl not admit of the delay necessary 5 our liberty, if not our lives, depended Qpon making the best use of the time allowed us for effecting our escape. We were well aware that, if any intelligence of our intention should teach Petersburgh, all our hopes of (][uitting Russia would be an- nihilated. In the church of Nicholaef is preserved a stone brought firom thence, which has an inscription, recording the dedication of a golden image of Victory to ApoUo, the protector, offered up by the officers, whose names are men* tioned, in behalf of the city and (heir own safety. The different itiedals of 0^6iopo2i5, representing this head of Cere$ ; that of a bull ^ an eagle standing on a dolphin ; a how and quiver ; or »n car &i com ; have for their legend the word OABionOAiTfiaN. They are always etceedin^y rare. I obtained one of bronsse in high preservation at Nicholaef^ vrhich diflfers from any I have yet seen described. In front it has a Jiearded head of Patf, with horns. Eckhel describes d medal of the same city as^aracterizedby the Vltik barhd* ium^ this may, perhaps^ have been a similaf representatioil of Pan in an infe^iour itateof pfeservatidn,owingto whicb the horns of the figure were uulioticed ; but the same legend is not found in his valuable work,* Scymnns Chiu» ascer- tains with great precision the situation of the city.f ^< At the eonftttence/' sa^s ke, '♦^ of the two rivers j Hypanis and Bo- rTSthenes,is a city , formerly called Olbia, and since Borys- thenes by the Greeks. The Milesians buiU it durine the em- pire of the Medes." Strabo mentions it under me same namet and describes it as a great emporium, founded by the Slilesians.f Pliny says that it had formerly born the name otMUetopolis^ m well as Olbiopolis.§ Casaubon derives the former appellation froin the circumstance of its origin }% the ^ • Doctrina Nam, "Vet. Par. I. voL II. Vimlob. 1794. t Scymnus Cbiaa, Tol. II, p. 46;. Oxon. 1703» 4= Sti-ab. lib. vil. p. 443. ed. O^on. ' . *♦ ' JPlin.lib. iv. C.12. ^ If Comments in Strab. Geog, ed. Oxon. p. 4|4a. 4,0ft glarke's travels in turkey. latter is^ however, that which appears upon the medalg of the city. According to Fiiny^s aceouutv it stood at the dis- tance of fifteen miles from the sea ;* bat Ca«aubon, sut^^st- ing a different reading*, as reconcilable to Strabo, anS con- fiirmed by the authority of Dio Chrysostom, makes the dis- tance equal to twenty five miles,.whieh is nearer the truth. f Some have supposed the site of it to have been that of Oc- zakof ; but the appearance of its ruins proves the contrary. As for Oczakof, lately sowell known, not a stone now tells where it stood. Without a guide it wonhl be impossible to ascertain its former position ; every trace of it having dis- appeared. Admiral Vondazen invited us to dinner; and, hearing of our intention toundertake a journey, by land, to Constanti- nople, offered us permission to sail in a packet belon«;;ing to the crown from Odessa. This we readily accepted ; hat the plan did not suit the views of the vice admiral^ count Voino- vick, a Sclavonian. who had other intentions with regard to that vessel, and by whose subsequent intrigues we were prevented from using it. Admiral Priestman, who was then at Nicholaef^ acted towards us with nnboufided hospitality and friendship. It was from that officer I principally receiv- ed the particulars of Mr. Howard's death, already commu- nicated. In the short acquaintance we had formed with him, the blunt sincerity of his character, his openness and bene- volence of heart, had endeared him to ns so much^ that we deeply lamented the loss of his society. Thai so distinguish- ed a naval officer should be in the service of our enemies, merely from want of employment at home, cannot be too much regretted. Great Britain has not, perhaps, a better or a braver seaman in her service. When we leftNiehoiaef, he conveyed us over the Bog, which is here near three miles wide, in his barge, with twelve oars; accompanied by Mr. IToung, an engineer, another Englishman of talent in the service of Russia, from whom we also experienced all possi- hle attention and civility. The baron de.Bar, and count Heiden, administered every kindness. which it was in their power to bestow; and we quitted Nicholaef full of gratitude for acts of benignity, to which, with the exception of the pa- ternal solicitu^ and favours of professor Pallas, Me had long been strangers. * Plin. "Vid. supfit. t Caoiuboji. ConiBient. m Strab. Geog..ed» Oxx)d. p. 442,. rUOM KICHOLAEV TO OBESSA. 407 Uur journey from Nichelaef to Odessa will he best seen ky reference to any afood map of the sooth of Russia; as there is not a single object the whole way, whieh the reader will not find there laid down. The whole is a flat steppe, intersected by streams and inlets of water, across which we were conveyed sometimes in boats, and sometimes over shallows, sitting in the carriage.* Wc noticed some re- markable salt lakes, and, by the last post-house before ar- riving at Odessa, an aggregation of mineralized sea-shells, used as a material in building the cottages, of such extra** ordinary beauty and perfection, as to merit a more particu- lar description. I have since annually eihibited a speci- men of this singular deposit, in the mineralo^ical lectures given to the university of Cambridge ; and, as'it offers a sa- tisfactory example of the change which animal matter uif- ders^oes oy deeom position^ as well as a most striking proof of the draining of the great oriental plain by means ^the canaj of Constantinople, I shall here beg leave to state the result of my own observations upon the subject. It is the opinion of the celebrated Bournon, that, When- ever the abode of a testaceous animal ceases to conduce to purposes of life, and is abandoned by its inhabitant, it be^ comes properly amineral :t that, for example, as a speci- men of carbonated lime, it possesses, in an eminent degree, the characters and fracture of that substance when indu- rated, or crystallized. In proof of this, he once exhibited to me, in the fracture of a common oyster-shell, the obtuse angle of the Iceland spar, accurately corresponding with the geometrical law of the mineral, and having precisely an equal number of de^^rees ascertained by tlfe goniometer. If Saus^ure had not discovered limestone lying beneath ro^ks of the most ancient formation, the French would long ago have established a theory, that all the strata of carbonated lime upon the surface of the globe, have.resulted from the • It was in thi« steppe ihst I discovered a new species oi ^^nchiisa, which the Linnsen society have niuned Jlnchusa exasperata, the rough, bristly, hugloss. I received from my friend, Mr Aylmer Bourke Lambert, th« foUowing descnption of it ; ** Anchvsa exasj}ei'atas nova '^speciesy caiile ramosismmo, hispido > foliis IbleaiHbus integerrimii, veniccososetigeris ; raceiius terminalibti^,* ealycibvs ciliatiSy pedicelHs drevissimis" Some other plattts were also addkd to our oollection from those plains, viz, £er' berit Sibirica, Siberian Barbeny, wliich also grows neafChersod ; Clieli' doninm camiciilattim, homed poppy ; Ihmcotephalum ^oldavicum, Mol- davian balm ; Ettffi^um maritimnm, sea hfAty ; Plantago ptylUum^ flet- ■HTort, OP clammy plantain ; and Poa eragroHriSf proatralc meadow-grassj . t Mineralog. rtc Bo»inion. pp.aiO, ^U. , 408 CLARKIJ'S TRAVELS IN TtRKEy. decomposition of animal matter, deposited dari»g a series of ages. Whoever has attended to the appearances left by testaceous anin^als, particularly in the cavities of the cornu ommonis, must have been struck with the remarkable cir* •omstanee, that where an escape of the fleshy part of the animal has been precluded by the surrounding ^hell, pure and perfect crystals qf carbonated lime have been the ex- traordinary resnlt; and must also frequently have remarked tiiat shells alone, independeat of the admission of any ex- traneous substance, have, by their deposit, constituted im- mense strata of limestone. For the truth of this, it is unne- cessary to adduce a more striking example than the instance afforded of the limestone in the neighbourTjood, of Odessa, It is in a semi-indurated state, but, like the Ketton -stone,* and almost every other variety used for arcbiteetural pur- poses, hardens by exposure to the atmosphere. On this ac- eount, and also from its remarkable levity, it is a favourite material for building. When examined closely, it exhibits throughout the entire mass, no other appearance than an aggregate of small cockle-shells, all exactly of the same size, perfect in their forms,but crumbling in the hand, and coloured by the yellow or red oxide of iron. iTbe ehymical analysis of tbiis mineral is nearly that of the Ki&tton -stone; yielding no other ingredients thun lime andcarbonick acid, except a very small proportion of alumine, and oxide of iron. Thestratum,from which it is dug, is of considerable thickness, and lies several yards above the preseqt level oi the Bl^k Sea. It naay be noticed all along the coast, and especially within the port of Odessa. Similar appearances may be traced the whole way from the Black Sea, towards the north, as far as the forty eighth line of latitude ; and, perhaps, over all Asiatick Tartary, Wheince it follows, that the level of the waters which appear at intervals be- tween the parallels of French longitude ^-o and SO, was not always what it is now : aod, that the period ef its incipient fall may be traced to anera-subsequent tothatof the cleltige in the time of Noah, seems evident, not only from history, hut also by a rei'erence to existing natural phenomena. At the bursting of the Thracian Bosporus, whether in conse- quence of a volcano, whose vestiges are yet visible, o^ <^ • So cftlled from Ketton, in Nonlianaptonshirc. Tlws $tone, by a very recent analysis of the Rev.- Mr. Holmes/ of St. Peter's Cotlcge, Cam- teidge, is found to be one- of the purest octmbiiiKtions of iim& and ciirb*- nickacld. tHOU NIGROLABr TQ OI^ESSA. 40{l tlie itnniense pressure caused by an ae<iumulated ocean against the mound there presented, the whole of Greece ex- perienced an inundation, the memory of which was pre* served by the inhabitants of Samothraee, so late as the time of DiedornsSienlns ;* and its effects are still discernible in the form of all the islands in the south of the Archipelago, which slope towards the north, and are precipitous upon their southern shores^f Not, therefore, to rely on those equivocal legends of ancient days, telling how Orpheus, with the Argonauts, passed into the Baltick, over the vast expanse of water by which it was then united to. the Eiixine, we may reasonably conclude, with Tournefbrt, Pallas, and other celebrated men, that the Aral, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, were once combined ; and that the whole of the great eastern plain of Tartary was one prodigious bed of water. The draining, which even now takes place pcrpetu- ^iy? by th^ two channels of Taman and Constantinople, is, by some, deemed greater than the produce of all the rivers witich flow into tfie sea of Azof, and the Black Sea. The former has become soslx^llow, that, during certain- winds, as befbre related, a passage may be effected l>y land, from Ta- ^anrock to Azof^ through the bed of the sea, . Ships, which formerly sailed to Tagan rock and the mouths of the Don, are now tinabfe to approach either the one or the other : from allwMeh it may not be unreasonable to conclude, that both the Black Sea and the sea of Azof, by the diminution Iheir waters hourly sustain, will, at some future period, be- come a series of marsh lands, intersected only by the course and junction of the rivers which flow into them. An oppo- site opinion was, however, maintained by the learned Tour- nefort, who considered the discharge of water, by the canal t>f Constantinople, as not comparable to the product of any one of the great rivers which flow into those seas4 'A^he same author, surprised, therefore, that tlie Black Sea does not increase, observes, that it receives more rivers than the Mediterranean; as if unmindfulthat the Mediterrauean contains the sum of all the rivers that flow into the Mseotis and the Black Sea, superadded to those which properly be- long unto itself. Other writers also, befieviug that more tfater flows into the Black Sea than out of it, endeavour to • Biodor. Sic. Kb. 5. Biblioth. Hist . f See Sonini's Ti'avels. t Tonmefort, Voy . du Levant, torn. It Lett, XV. p. 404. Lyon, 17!r. Oo . 410 CLAUKE S TRAVELS lH TAUTARY, aeeoutit for its present altitaJe, cither by imagining a ftub- terraneous channel,* or explain the cause from the effeet of evaporation*! The Rassians enkrtain notions of a sub- terraneous channel, in order to account for the loss of wa- t^r in the Caspian ; one of whose rivers is full as considera- ble as any that falls into the Black Sea. As far as my judg- ment goes/the rivers which fall into the Black Sea, and the sea of Azof, do not communicate more water than flows through the canal of Constantinople; and therefore, admit- ting tt»e effect of evaporation, the level of the Blaek Sea in- sensibly falls. The Don, the Kuban, the Phase, the Dnie- per, the Dniester, the Danube, and many other rivers mak- ing a great figure in geography, have a less important ap- pearance when surveyed at their «nbouchures. The great- est of them all, the Danube, is very shallow at the mouth; and its waters, extended over an imhi^nse surface, lie stag- nating in shallow marshes, among an infinity of reeds, and other aquatiek plants, subject to very considerable evapora- tion, besides the loss sustained during it« passage to the sea. The building of the present town of Odessa, and the con- struction of the pier for its port, were works carried on en- tirely under the direction of admiral Rtbas, who captured the place from the Turks. The late empress intrusted eve- ry thing concerning it into his hands, as a mark of her ap- probaVion of his conduct: the emperonr Paul, by way of thv^arting his mother's benevolent design, dismissed the ad- miral altogether ; leaving him with a large fi&mily, destitute of any support. This was exactly the sort of system pursued by that monarch, when we were in Russia, towards every veteran in his service. Never was the remark of Frederick of Prussia more completely verified, who used this saying : •' Officers are as lenians: we squeeze ovtthejuice^ ana cast cncpy the rindP^ I had ah opportunity to examine it cata- logue of. oihcers who had resigned, or had been dismissed the service, since Paul's accession. Including the civil list, the persons excluded amounted to the astonishing number of thirty thousand; eighteen thousand dismissed by order; and twelve thousand w ho had voluntarily resicned. In the Tist of these, appeared the names of some individuak who harl only been m office three days ; others a week : thus the whole body of oilicers in the emperour's service had been * Voyngc <i'.\i)i»i6linvse,.toro. I. c. 1; KaaM NiaHOLAEF TO Oi>£gBA. <^1 1 changed witb such surprising rapidity, that there was hard- ly a ramily, in all Russia^ unaffected by his caprice. The l^d policy of this was even then so evident, that every oile knew the number of disaffected persons by far exceeded the list of those whom fear or mercenary eonsideration kept in subordination, and it was apprehended that the whole em- pire, in consequence of the slightest emotion, would be throWQ into disorder. The first consequence of any snch disturbance,^ would have. been the massacre of all the no- bles; and regard: for their own safety was Ihe only bond, .on the part of the nobilitv? which kept them froin betray- ing their disafi&etion. Still it was evident that.tbe irfe of the sovereign would soon atone for his disgraceful tyranny ; and the result has proved that his death was even, nearer thai» we then apprehended. purini" the time ^t admiral Ribas held the direction of affairs at Odessa, a plaii was projected for the construction pf a pier, i^ijeh would hare rendered the port:eq.ually au object of utility andvgrandeUr.. Thi* project was submitted to the emperour's consideration, who ordered it to be put in execution. It was, therefore, natupaJly expected that the sovereign, who was to reap every adyr<»ntage from the pro- posed, underta^king, would so far patronise it, a» tn advance the money for its completion. Paul, however,, hesitated^ and the work eeasjed. In the mean time, the commerce of Odessa languished ; the rising prosperity of the town was cheeked; the buildings were not carried on; the mer- chants began to leave the place, and the necessity of the undertaking beeaine>daily more and more alarmingly visible. Ax lastj petition after petition haying been offered in vain, the matter came to a singular issue. The emperour resol- ved to turn usurer. He prppojsed to lend them a sum of monoj, with enormous interest, and upon the stroD«^est secu> xitf 9 yet left the inhabitants no option, but compelled them to accept the loan upon his, own terms, ajid ordered the work to b€i carried on. The inhabitants, finding they could not offer security for the whole charge, which was estimated at iive hundred thousand roubles, began to bargain with their sovereign as with a Jew ; begging his permission to borrow of him only half the sum proposed, to con&truct a pier upon a smaller scale. To this Paul consented, and the worK so planned was nearly finished when we arrived ; but, to those who have seen the original design^ the meanness and insuiii- eiency of the undert^ing, is lameiitably conspicuous. 4rifi CtAaK£^ XaAVSLS IN TARTAHY. The townof Odessa is situated close to the coAst^ whieli is here very lofty, and mueh exposed to the wtmla,* The air is reekoned pare, and remarkably wholesome. Corn is the principal article of exportation./ The imports are, dri- ed and conserved fr'Oits from Constantinople, Greek wines, tnobaceo, and other Turkish merchandise. .The villages in (he neighbourhood produce hotter and cheese: these are rarities at table in the south of Russia. Potatoes, which seldom appear in other towns, are sold in the market, and they are even carried as presents to Constantinople. The melons of the neighbourhood are remarkably fine. They have oHe sort, which came to' them fro^ Turkey, superaour in flavour to any, perhaps, known in the world. The inside of this melon is of a green colour; and the seed, after.it is opened, is found in a cavity in the centre, quite detached from the sides of the fruit, in a dry, mealy ease or bag, in shape resembling a head of Indian wheat. This rejoark- able character wUl serve to distinguish it at any ttme* The inhabitants, to preserve the seed, pierce those bags, with • '* Odessa is a fcry interesting place ; and being the seat of govern- ment, nnd th^ only quarantine allowed tnceept CaflTa and Taganrog, is^thoogii Of verj late erection, already- wealth j and flourishing; too raneh'.praiae cannot be given to the duke of Richelieu, to whose administration^ not to .iny natural advantages, this town owes its prosperity. The bay is good anil secure, but all round is desert ; and it labours under the want of a nav- ii^ble river, and a great aearcity of fresh water. There are two weRa in the town^ both, braokidi ; and a third, a very fine one, on the opposite aide of the bay ; a fourth had been just discovered, when I was there, in the j^firdcn of an Italian merchant ; and was talked of like k silver mjne. AU <;oramoditic8 are either brouglit: in barks fromGherson, or drawn over the 'iteppe by oxen, who were seen lying in the streets or on the new quaf • greatly exhausted with thirst, or alniost furious in their struggles to get at fhe water, when it was poui-edinto the troughs. The situation of the town, however, is healthy and pleasant in other respects. The quarantine is large and well constructed- • - . ** As far as I conUl learn (and I made many inquiries) it was very bdid policy to fiji their quarantine at Odessa instead of Otchakof, where was a titty and fortress ready built in a situation perfectly secure from the Turks, and which, lying at the junctions of (he Bog and Dnieper, is the natural emporium of the seas. The harbour,! understand, jsperfecUy. secure ; and, even if the Liman were un8tife,the Bog affords a constant shelter. 'The observations generally made was, the necessity of a secure quarantine ; to which it was answered, that the point of Kinbum afforded a situation even more secure than Odessa, If these facts are true, a wise goverment would, probably, without discouraging Odessa, restore the quarantine to Otchakof, and allow them both to take their chance in a fair competition. This, liow- «ver, seems little understood in Russia; Potemkin haidno idea of encour- ■V^^ Cherson, but by raining Taganrog ; and at present Checaon is to be sAcrificed to the new favourite, Odessa,*' ffeber^s J>i5. /Q2<ni«/. FROM IflGUOLAEF TO ODESSA. 4^±Z skewers, and hang them ap in their houseg.* The water- melons of Odessa are sometimes siiperioor to the finest sold in the markets of Naples,aad are nearly equal to those found upon the eoast of Sjria. The whole country is destitute of wood ; for fnel they burn weeds gathered in the steppes^ as well as bundles of reeds and cowdung; this last they eol- leet and stick upon the sides of their houses ; a eastom prac- tised in the Isle of Portland, and throughout the county o^ Cornwall. Odessa is remarkable for the superionr fiavoar of itsr mutton; which, however, does not equal that of the Crimea. Their sheep are slanghteredat a very early ag^,and brought to table the day they are killed. This eiroumstance ren-i ders animal food unpleasant at a Russian table, because it cannot be eaten unlese dressed nntil it falls to pieces. ' The same eastom prevails with regard to poultry, whieh are nei- ther killed nor picked nntil the water of the kettle boils in which they are to be dressed. Of all the dishes known in Russia, there is> nothing hi such general esteem from the peasant to the prince, as a kind of Pates, which are called J^iroghu These, at the tables of the great, are served with the soup in the first course. In the streets of Moscow and Petersburgh,they are sold upon stalls. They fcre well-tasted, but extremely greasy, and often full of oil ; consisting of mmeed meat, 'or brains, rolled-up in paneakes, which are afterwards fried in butter, or oil, and served hot. The rolls described by Bruce, with which women, in a certain part of Ethiopia, feed their husbands^ are nearly similar; only the meat is raw, and the roll is of dough ; yet the month of a Russian prince would water at the sidit of the Ethiopian piroghu Pigeons are rarely seen at the tables of the Rus- sians; they entertain a superstitious veneration for the an- imal, because the Holy Ohost assumed the form of a dove. These birds are kept more for amusement than for food, and are often maintained with great care at an enormous expense. The rich employ servants to look after them, and ta teach them a number of tricks ; among whieh a very favourite one is, to rise from the hand, whirling in spiral curves to a very great height, and then to fall at once like astone, until they come within a few yards of the ground. They are taught to whirl with long, white wands,t and to fall by - * We bpooght some seeds to England ; but no plants were produced from them. . t See p. 71, of this ▼allrnie. O o ^ IIJ* CLARKE-'s TRAVELS lit TAB^TART. means of a siring fastened to theni,4iy wltieb they are sud- denly puUed down, untii by degrees they acquire the art of falling without being thus admonished. The etiquette of precedeney^ so rigorously observed at a Russian table, prevails also iii the order of the dislies and bottles arranged for the guests. In barbarous times we bad something like it in England. Perhaps the custoni is not even now quite extinet in Wales ; it is preserved in large farm houses in remote parts of Bngknd, where all thofomt- ly, from the niaster to the lowest menial, sit down to the same table. The ohoieest dishes are earefuUy placed at the upper end, and are handed to, those guests who sit near the owner of tlie mansion, according to the order in which they sit; afterwards, if any thing remains, it is taken grado- ally to the rest. Thus a degree in preeedenoy makeiS' all the difference between something and nothing* to eat;, for persons at the bottom of the table are often compelled to rest satisfied with an empty dish. It is the same with re- gard to the wines ; the best are placed near the top of the table, but, in proportion as the guests are removed from the post of honour, tl>e wine before them diminishes in quality, until at last it degenerates into simple qms. Few things can offer more repugnance to the feelings of an Englishman, than the example of a wealthy glutton, pouring forth eulo- gium upon the choice wines he has placed before a stranger merely out of ostentation, while a number of brave oMcers and dependants are sitting by him, to whom he is unable to offer a single. glass. I sometimes essayed a violation of this barbarous custom, by taking the bottle placed before me, and filling the glasses of those below; but the offer was ge- nerally refused through fear of giving offence by acceptance, and it was a mod^ of oonduot which I found eonld not be tolerated, even by the roost liberal host. At a Russian ta- ble, two tureens of soup usually make their appearanee, as we often see them in England ; but, if a stranger should ask for that wkieh is placed at the bottom of the (able, the master of the house regards him with dismay, the rest all gaze at him with wonder, and when he tastes what he has obtained, he finds it to be a mess of dirty and abominable broth, stationed for those who never venture to ask for soup from the upper end of the table. A droll accident befel two En^ish gentlemen of eensi- derable property, who were travelling for amosement in Russia. They were at Nicbolaef f aad> being invited by the FROM >NI<FHOLA£F TO ODESSA. MB chief ftclmital to dinner, were placed ^ nsaal at the bead of the table, wliere they wel« addreswed by the well known title ot Milords Mglbis: Tired of thid ill placed dintinetion^ they as(9ured the adfniral they were not lords. ^< Then pray^** said their host, <« what ranK do you possess B^ The lowest Russian admttted to an admiral's table possesses a eertatn de^ee bf rank 5 all who are in the serrice of the erown are noble by their profession ; and they eannot comprehend the title of a mere gentleman, without some specifick tttie ao^ nexed. The Englishmen replied, however, that they had no other rank thanr that of English gentlemen. " But mar title? Fou mu^ have soni0^tieJ" No, said they, we have no title ; bat that of Enelish gentlemen. 'A general silen^e^, and many sagaeions looks folto wed this last declaration. On the following diy they presented themselves again at the hour of dinner, and were taking their station as befbre. To their surprise they found- that each person present, one after the other, ptlaeed himself above them. One war a general* $ auotheraliefitenant^ a third an ensign^ a fourth a police officer ; a fifth an army surgeon ; a sixth a secretary 5 and soon. All this was very well; they consoled themselves with the prospect of a snug party atthebottom of the table, where they would be the farther removed fi-om ceremony ; but lo I when the dishes came round, a first was empty ; a second eontained the sauce without the meat; a third the rejected oiFals of (he whole company; and at length they were eomfpell^d to make a scanty meal lipon the slice of black bread before them, and a little dirty broth from the humble tiireen, behind whose compassionate veil they were hiippy to hide their confusion ; at the same time being mut^ amused than mortified at an adventure into which they now saw they brought themselves by their unassuming frank- ness. Had either of them said, as was really the ease, that they were in the service of hii Britanick majesty's militia, or members of the Associated Volunteers of London, they would never have encountered so unfavourable a reception. But more serious difficnities frequently follow a want of attention to these prejudices in visiting the interiour of Rus*^ ^ sia. When n. Poaerasnoi^ or order for post-horses, is made outvitwill often be recommended to fbreigners, and particu- larly to Bn^lishmen, to annex some title to the simple states- ment df therr names. Withoutthi^, they will be considered . during their journey as mere slaves, and will be liable to ftei^nt iBffttlt^ delay^ and imposition* The precaution is of 4if tSJkKBE^S TRAVELS IH TkKTkKT. tueh importance, that experieneed travellers have introdc^ ted the most Indierous distineilons u[>oii these oecasioD»y and ha?e represented themselves as barons, bri^diers, in- Bpeetors, and professors, in short, as wnj things which may enable them to pass as freediiien.F<)r example i ^Monsieur h Capitainej A, B. C. avee leDireeteut, D. E. F.et laPresi- dentj G. H. h et kurs domesiiquesi K. L. M.'' So necessary is a due re^rd to these particulars, that an officer of very high rank in th|B service, assured us, on leaving Moscow, we should 6nd ourselves freauentty embarrassed in ourronto because we would not abandonthe pride of calling ourselves commoners of England ; and' we had reason to regret the neglect with which we treated his advice, during l&e whole of our subsequent travels in the country. It has b^en already stated, that. we left the Crimea with an intention to undertake a journey by land to Constantino- ple. The route is usually practicable from Odessa, by the way of Z^tt^osar, on the frontier, to Fass^,Siiistria, and Adri- anople. On account of the rumoured dangers which ought %e apprehended from the rebel adherents of Pasvan d^Oglon, we had solicitedfromourambassadour at the Porte, an escort of Janissaries to meet us at Yasi^y. The rmA is calculated for the conveyance of any kind of wheeled vehicle. Prince Nassau, during his legation to the Porte, had beenaeeompa- nied by nearly a hundred carriages^ and the Turkish guard, stationed at short intervals the whole way, renders the jour- ney secure. This route is also interesting, on account of the mountainous district through which it leads, in parts of which the snow is said to remain during the whole yearf and also from the eircamstanee of erossing the Danube so near its «mboucbi]re. Almost immediately after leaving Silistria, the ascent begins of that ridge of mountains an- ciently called HoEMVS, after attaining the summit of which the descent is seldom interrupti^d the whole way to Adrian^ opie; from this place there is an excellent toad to ConstaA- tinople. A shorter route, but less frequented, and les» con- venient, conducts the travelbralongthe coast of the Blaek- Sea, to the Thraeian Bosporus. These eonsiderations strongly instigated us to pursue our intended expeditioii by land. Circumstances^ however occurred^, which induced us to a different determination, and though we narrowly esea- ped the passage of the Black-Sea w^th our lives, we had ultimately reason to. rejoice 5 for we were afterward infor- med that an ordoJT from the Bussiari government was actually F&OM op^SAy TQ THE KARBOltA 9? INBADA. ^T expedited to Dnbagar^ with tnsiruetioBs for our apprehen- sioD, aud a more particular exaoiinMion of our paperg and ba^age, than the nature of their contents would have ren^ dered desirable.. By one of those fortunate aecideuts which sometimes befal adreuturers in a boisterous world, we found in the port of Odessa a Venetian brigantine, laden with corn^ and bound for the Adriatick, whoso master, 11 Ca^itano Franeesco Ber^amini, not only eagerl;^ embraced the op- portunity of eonyeylu^ us to Constantinople, bjut promised also to assist us in iacilitating our escape, by enforcing the validity of the passport we had brought with us. He waited only the arrival of his own order for saling, from the office at Nieholaef, and we made every thing ready for our embarkation. CHAPTfiB XXV. VOYAGE PHOBf OGDBSSA, TO THB HARBOni OP INBA0A, I» TURKEY. Ckmtrasi between -a Bnusian and a Greek'^ToumefartU er* rolMcm ^Acconnt of th$ Black Su>-^JBxtraiordinary Tem^ ' pemture of the ChuMxte'^Ey^lish Commerce in the Blach Sea-^FortressafOdefi$a^^I^parturefor Thtrkey^^Mand of LucK'-^ccount^ ^it by ancient fVriters^'^ouths cf- the Danube^^fFhite iMpkins^^Otservations on board the : Modera^O'-F^Dreadful Tempest-^-Harbour of Inead&^^ Flttnt»-'-^vpearance of the TuTkS'''^^Mmjmtaa.neer9'mmSa'- saltiek PiUifs — Theory^of their Origin* THE contrast which prevaiis between a Uussian and a Copsaek, or between a Russian and a Tartar^ has^ perhaps;» already been sufficiently delineated ; but there is a third point of opposition, in which a Russian may be placed, even more amusing ^han either of these^ namely, that in which he is contrasted with a Greek. The situatioB of Odessa is not verj remote from the spot-^ in whieb^ eighteen eentunes ae-o, similar comparisons served' to amnse Ovid during hi« melancholy exilel He found, on either side the Danttht*, a di£ferent race of men. On the south were the 41$ OXJ^^KS'S TRAvijLS IN TART ART. Getee, who^e origin fra« the ^me as ibatof theGlr«ek»,«Bd whose mode of speech he deserijies as still retainiDg eorropU ed traces of the Greek language. Oo the north were the Sar- matiaiis, the progenitors of the Russians. Aeeording to his aecQUQt, however, both to the Get8e and Sarmatee belonged; the same.* .<* Vox> fera, trux tuUub, verissima Martis imt^o. Kon coma, nonuIU barba.reseetamanu." , Perhaps we are not authorized in considering the inoderv Greeks, as legitimate descendants.of the Get«. Be that as it may, the former are found, at this day, negotiating with as ferocious a people^ on the Euxine coast, as Oyid himself selected for ther originals of his picture of the barbarians upon the Ister ;. and the two people are instantly distin- eo is hed from each other by their striking peculiarity of Mature. In order to render the eontrasVasforcibiefi^ possi- ble, let us select a Greek froni any of the islands ok shares, of the Archipelago, and plaee. him by the side of ar Rossian. The latter, particularly, if in uniform, and of a rank above the peasant, resembles one of those figures which ebildrea cut out in wQod ; requiring eonsiderame iiddress, in paisiog, to be sustained upon its legs. The Greek, on the ether band, active and lithy as a serpent, twists hiniself into every ▼ariety of posture, and stands in almost firetj attitude. Firm upon his feet, and generally exhibiting a graceful, waving line of figure, he seems as if he would fall, like a cat, upon his legs, although tossed in any direction. .The features of the Greek may Ire compared to those of the Portuguese and French ; having the dark hair and eyes of the former, with the fixed grimace of the latter. . Generally speaking, the men among the Greeks are not ha);id&ome; their stature is small, although well proportioned. The Russian too has a diminutive person; but nis face is, in every thing, the.re- verse of that of the Greek 5 offering in profile a concavity, which is very remarkable. This concavity is increased in the line of a peasant^s countenance by the projection of the beard from the chin, and a quantity of busby hair upon the forehead. " Oraqm sunt longishorrida tecta comis.^^ The line, which may be traced to express the profile of a Greek, is, oil the contrary, convex. A reniarkabie distance may * Ovi<fc TTOt. lib. V. EJeg, yUL cJ. Lugd. 168?. FROM ODKSSAy TO THE HARBOCB OF INEABA: 419 lie oWerved from the noso to the moath, which is never a pleasitif^ eharaeter iii physiogomy, as it gives a knavish, hy- poeritteal expression to the countenance. The Russian has not this distfittee on the upper lip. The Greek has, more- over, freanently a wide mouth, thick lips, and" very large teeth. His forehead is low, and his chin small. Hi« nose partakes of the eonvexity of his face, more than of that par- tial aquiline, which is generally considered as characteris- tick of the Roman countenanee ^ and when this prevails to excess, the features resemble those of fawns alid satyrs seen in ancient sculpture. Of course, a description of this kind, calculated merely for amusement, cannot be without many remarkable exeeptions. The inhabitants of Gk'eece often differ frotn each other ; those of Lacedemon, and all the western coast of the Morea, together with the natives of Zante and Cepbalonia, are a much finer race of men, with nobler features, and more athletick figures, than any of the inhabitants of the Archipelago. The anxiety, in which we waited the return of captain Qergamini's messenger from Nieholaef, may easily be ima- ^ned. We had nearly done with all that concerned Russia $ yet no prisoners, under confinement in a dungeon, ever prayed more earnestly for a jail deliverv, than we did to get free from the country^ So surrounded with danger W8« every Englishman, from the Baltick to the Black Sea, and so little certain uf being able to put any plan in execution, that we considered, it more than even chance in feCvour of our being again detained, and, perhaps, sent back the whole way to Petersburgh. In the mean time, a number of little Turkish hoats were continually sailing id and out of the port of 'Odessa ; and, although they were so small that few would venture in them, even upon the Thames, in rough weather, yet we sometimes fancied they would facilitate our escape, if our scheme of sailing in the Venetian vessel should fail of success. They were laden with merchandise to the water's edge,. and carried such enormous sails, that one would expect to see them u[Jset with every guut of M^ind ; yet we were told their owners ventured in them, not only from Constantinople, but almost to Cver^ paK of the Black Sea. It must be confessed, we did not anticipate, with much pleasure, the necessity of a voyage in one of these bean-cods ; for, although Tonmefort was induced to ptfblish a description, in refutation of all history and tradition, con* .eerning the nature of the Blaek Sea, nothing more errone- 420 CLARKE'^ T&AVSLS IK TAllTAEY« oos tban Ilis represcntatmn has evemppeated.* Tfaedark^ ness which often covers it, partienlarly during ivioter,frbm tke thick fogs and falling snow, is so great^ that marioers «re Dnabie to discefn a eable^s length from tlieir Tesselt. The entrance to (he canal ef Constantinople, always diffi« eult, becomes, in sneh eases, impracticable, 'rher e is no sc^ in which naviie:ation is more dangerons.f Shallows, bitlidrtd unnoticed in any chart, occur frequently when vessels arfc out of sight of land ; and the dreadful storms which prevail come on so suddenly, and with soch fuiy, that ev^ry mast is carried ovefboard almost as soon as the first symptom of a change of weather is noticed. Perhaps more skilful sailors might guard against danger from the winds ; as it more thas once happened, when the Russian fleet put to sea, that the ships, commanded by admirals PHestman and Wilson, were the only vessels which escaped bein^ dismasted. Yet eveil those experienced officers described the Black Bea as ei^ * Theaecoantis so chAracteristick of a Frencliman' sailing on a fine day from the canal of Constantinople, that I cannot forbear its insertion *< ^^uoiqWen aient dU let ^neienSf la Mkk Nojbe k'a iucx dis noir, pour ainsi dire, que le nom ; let veiits n*tf sotiffientpaa avecplus defwict ei let orai^eB rCy sont g-ueres plu9 frequens que sur l^s auti^t mers, 11 faut pardonner cea exnurirations aux Poetea aniens, et ^tertbut au cha- ^in d'Ovide ,• en effet h tttble de la Mer Mfire est de mime emieur pte celm de la Mer Blanche , et ses eaux en ^ontatiasi claire^;: en un mot^ H lea cotes de cette mer, ^lupaasent pour d dangereusea, paroissent sombret de loin, ce sont lee bois qui let covfvrent, on te grand ^loignemeiit qui let font parottre comme noirdtret. l^ Ciely fut si beiiu^ et n terein pen*_ dant tout notre voyage^ que nous ne p^mee noua emp^cher de doimer une esp^ce de dementi a ValeiHut Flaccut fameiLx Poete Latin, qui a decrit ki route det jJrgonautet, lesqvett passntent pour let plus celebret 'voya- ^eurt de Vantiq^dtiy matt qui ne tont cependant <hjb bb foht pktits eARcoxs en comparaiton det Vincent le Blanf, To'vermrr, ^c- Ce Poete assure que le Cielde la Mier Mire est toujours embroiiilU.** Voyage du Levant, Lett. XVI. torn tU. p. 1. ed. Lyon. 1717. f This truth, founded on the experience of ages^ and admitted by tlie ablest writers of antiquity, might seem sufficiently -well established to be considei'ed undeniable. Bat modern autboi^, instigated by the example rf Tournefort, are determined to set aside testimony so respectable. That a very CQn8idei*ahle part of the danger encountered, in navigating the Black Sea, is owing to the want of proper chains and able mannei*s, can- not be disputed; yet, from its veiy nature, and the heiglits around, it is necessarily liable to dark fojfs and violent squalls ; consequently- the prox- imity of a lee shore and shallow s cannot be destitute of peiil. Still we arc told : ** It is a notion received from the Turks, that the Black Sea is dan- gerous. To them, indeed, it is truly bljtck; and it would even he so t© JBritish sailors, in such vessels as the Turks use, and whicji are peculiar t* that sea. They cannot lie to, and are consequently obliged to run before the wind, and, if thev miss a |)ort, go on sliore. It is not more stormy th:»n. other seas.*' Su'^veu of tke Tjirkish empire, Fouf-th edit Intrcd. 'Chap Lond. 1809. . TO INEABA IN TIJAKEV. , i^d bibitiog tempests more horrible tlian any tbiDg thej had ever eneonntered in the oeean. Many vessels were lost dnrine the year we Tisited Odessa» by the storms whieh preceded and followed the equinox. A hulk, driven on shore at' Yarna, was all the intelligence received of the fate of a aiepehant ship whieh sailed out of port while we were there; and ntit« sonl on board escaped. Another was wreeked at- tempting to enter the canal of Constantinople; and eight tailors, with two ofiieers, were drowned ; the rest of the ©rew were saved by remaining a whole day on the ship's yiurds, until the storm abated, when they .swam on shore. Those storms were so great, that an alarm prevailed on shore for the safety of the houses. During one day and ttight, the stoutest stone walls seemed unequal to resist the violenee of the gale. The vineyards at Sudaek, as professor Pallas by letter informed us, and along the sovth coast of the Crimea, were destroyed ; bouses were unroofed : and alt those with easements had their windows forced iu by the tempest. Odessa will ever be a port of great importance to Russia^ while she is jirevented from laying her hands upon the Turkish empire; because, from the proximity to the Fortey a constant eye is kept upon theoperations of the Turks. It has also the advantage of being obstructed by ice so rarely, that a vessel may generally escape ; whereas, in the other ports of the Black Sea, an enemy from the ice may attack the ships as well as the works. This happened when the Russians took Oczakof. The extraordinary degrees of tem- perature, which occur in these latitudes, are altogether un- aceountable* Captain Bergamini informed ns that his ship was once detained five months in the mouth of the Danube by the freezing of the sea. Ovid, during his residence near the same place, had witnessed a similar event.* Upon the subject of English commerce and navigation in the Black Sea, I avoid going into much detail, from the consciousness * The description possesses admir^ible force und beauty : '* Yidimas ingentem glacie consistere pontum, Lubrieaqae immotas testa premebat aquas, If^ee vidisse sat est. Durum oalcavimus equor ; Undaque non udo sub pede suinma fuit." Ovid. lib. iii. Triest. Eie^. X. Those wlio have experienced a Russian winter will also know how to e^stimate the truth and elegance of the following lines : ** Ssepe sonant raoti glacie pendente capilli, l&tnltet inducto cafidida barba gelu/' Ibid. ^9 422 claeke's travels i?r6m tart Art* that my personal observations were of ltmit(?d*extent,and1ie« cause the theme is amply discussed in some interestins; re<« marks addressed to a respectable periodical work.* Tfa^se remarks, not withstandins; their unassuming form, bear sack internal evidence of authenticity, that I adopt them as au* thority, without hesitation, in my appendix. In fket, the official documents theirein comprised I kiiow to be deriv^ from the records kept in the chancery office of the British legation at Constantinople ; to which the writer, as a niem'^ ber of the Levant company, could, of course^ 6omm!(nd iM* cess. I can venture, indeed, to pledge myself for the authen- ticity of the papers" in question j and am glad to be instra- Biental in bringing under the publick eye such valuable ma- terial!?, for history, in a ^ay more calculated to perpetuate the recollection of thenk, than the fugitive manner in which they were fiYst published.! The fortress of Odessa is small, tmt kept in good brtler, it has, tike that of Chersoh, a double fosse. 1^ paid one Fisit to the commandant, a genuine Russian, living in a lit* tie hole, among bundles of official writings, and stinking like a hog. In answer to a very rude interrogation concerning our business, we said, with palpitating hearts, that we came to huve our passports signed. Afrer keeping us in a stale of most painful suspense for about half an hour, the expeet«- ed rouble being paid, and the /mitts and hawi^ and diffi.culties or office thereby done away, Ave heard the cheerful word Ca- rashot^ which never sounded so agreeably in our eftrs; and we withdrew, with the iinportani paper close folded and concealed from the inquisitive observation of several spies of the police, who, with outstretched necks and ca^r e^en^ seemed aware that it contained wherewithal to gratiff their curiosity. On the morning of the last day of October, at daybreak, captain Bergaminj^ of the Moderate, came with the joyfiil tntelligenee that all was ready for his departure^ and be§^;ed to hasten us on board, as the wind was favourable, airaJie wished to get under weigh with all possible expedition. The delays of the custom house kept the vessel in port until len o'clock. We embarked a little before nine. At ten pre* cisely, we began to heave the anchor; but from the foulness of the harbour it was with difficulty raised. The crew of the * Naval Chi-onicle, vol. XXl. p. 216. t ^9ee tlie appendix to thj« Tolume, No, HI. TO INEADA) IN TURKEY. ^23 custom Kouse boat, who had left us^ returned to c;et a little more brandy^ aad offered to lend uh their assistance. At half after ten the vessel was in motion ; but we lay-to for the eap~ tain's. nephew, who eomofiamied another merchant ship cal- led II Ficcolq dronetto^ which had not yet cleared. Soon after eleven she came along side ; and with hearts elate, fdthou^h still beating .with anxiety, through dread of being; r'rx detained, we bade a last adieu to Russia.; steering g th^ coast towards Akerman, in the mouth of the Pnieater,* which we passed in the evening. For the rest of tbit$ voyase, the extracts from my own Journal will be ^uscompiuiea by a literal translation, in (he appendix,t of (he log-book of the Moderator in order to afford as faithful ffjA aeeount as possible of our navigation in the Black Sea. At four o'clock in the morning of the. next day, we were cal- led upon deck by the eaptain to see the Isle of Serpents, an* cieatly Lence, lying off the mouths of the Danube, and cele- lirated in history for the tomb and temple of .Achilles. It is «o small, that as we passed we could view its whole extent, which. «ontinqed in sight until nine. According to the eye it appeared to be near a mile in length, and less than half a '- * AkeiTMaft and KflHi, in Lower Moldavia, or Bcfisara^ia, trene two cele- Vrated. towns. Tbe Brat is the O^iA of Herodotusi •all^d by th« Romans ^t^Ua jilbOf and \jy the Mokla\iaas of the present dayi Czetate Alba^ or the White City, Kilia, in the month of Uie Danube was, perhaps, the an- cient Ao«Jtt««w.- Ifi the Mstoire de la Moidavie,' et Valachiet printed At Nettofaatelin 17^1, whence this note isderired, circumstanees are men* : lioned eonceming the cetebritj of Akerman^ as the place of Ovid's exile^ vhich haVe^all the air of a fable* It is impossible to examine Ovid's writings without being convinced, from'hls own language, that the ][^ace of his resi- ' 4e«ee wa's Tonis^ which was mo^ nearer tlus situation <^ilia ; y.Q^ says th& tnthor of the work to which Ihave alluded, speaking of Akcrm^m : *' It is fa- 4P0OI1S in h&ving been the e'xile of Ovid. There is now a lake called by the i^easantS Lacttl Oviduluii Ovid's Lalce. Ovid left Czetate Athay and retired io a TiHi^ three miles distant, of which the ruins are still visible. Near the «jbttage-.ia whith helived is a small tprii^g wl»ch bears his name, as well as the lajte on the hanks on which hp used to Wilk, The peasants pretend that he composed poems in the Moldavian language, but none have ever heenfbiind. They have still various tradition^ ^onc&efninghhn." Similar absunlities eaust about his tomb, which they pretend ttx show to travellers, somewhere near Odessa. It seems, those who woujd thus move him from the marshes of the Ister to the Tyras, or Bniestef, have never reud these hnesofthe poet: ** Qaam.1egis> ex \&k tlbi renit epistola terni Latns ubi ssquoreis ad<Utar I^tur aquis." JUb, Y. THit. Eleg. VII. Nor ean they, surely, have considered the force of these words ; " Medio de^jndixnuir Istro." Lib, liL RUe^, X. t See itppendix^ No. IV. 42^ «LARKE^S TRAVELS VKO^ tARTA&V. mile in breadth. It is q^uite bare, beins covered only witk a little grass, and very low herbaee. When (earefully ex* amined with a telescope, there did not seem to be upon U the SRiaUest reinains of antiquity. I made a drawing of it from the southeast. On the south side there appeared ta be cliffs about fifty feet high. Might not its present name originate in the resemblance whieh the island bears to a serpent, or large fi«h, floating on the surface of the water ? Many absurd stories of Turkish and Russiim mariners are founded on a belief that the island i& itself covered with serpents. An opportunity rarely occurs in which ships can lie-to in order to visit it ; and, if this was to happen, not a man of any of their ere ws- would venture en shore ; although there are twenty fathoms of water within a cable's kngat of the island, and any vessel may sail dose to it. The Rus- sians relate, that four persons, belonging to the erew of a ship wrecked there, no sooner landed than they eneoiintere4 a worse ^nemy than the sea, and were all devoured by ser- pents. Ammiahus'MarcelUnus* records a similar supersti- tion to have prevailed in his time, eoncernrng the dangers of the' place. I regret exeeedingly that I did not land upon this island; beeanse, after a description so remarkable and so recent as that of Arfian, who wrote about the second een-. tury,^ there is great reason to believe some interesting Re- mains of antiquity might have been discovered. Thisseclu^ ded spot escaped the ravages to which almost every Dther portion of classical ta^ritory has been exposed ; neitker is it known that any traveller ever ventured th^re. Anciently it had various appellations; amoi^ these, the most received was that ofLeucej or the White IsSind. It was so called ia consequeneeiof the white ttppearanee caused by thesi^arm of sea-fowl which in certain seasons of tlie year, were seea tb cover it ; serving torenderthe island more visible. I have witnessed similar sights amonc the Hebrides ; where the number of Solan geese,and of other birds, cause the rocks and islands to appear as if capped with snow. All the super- stitions respecting Leuce seem to have had tlieir origin in its importance as a land-mark ; the coast near the mouths of the Danube being so low, that mariners were unable tb discern it, even when close in with the shore ; and the island itself, obscured by the hazy atmosphere of the Black Sea, rendered navigation dangerous^ except when conspicuoas • Ammian. Marcell. lib. xxii. c. 8.—** AiuJif enim fwi sine <iucriimna TO IVEABA, IN TVRKET 429 by its white birds. On thii^ account Pindar* called it Nmctiv AhviwAVi the Conspicuous Island ; and his commeDtators add) that it was " called the White Shore in the Eaxine; wliere many ^hite birds appearing, show the island to thtfse %ho saiHhat waj." And again: «« It is called Leuce on account of the number of white birdsrf which make their nests there." £ur!pides:( describes it as the White Shore of Achilles, and calls it noATOPNTeoN, from the number of its birds ; Scym- nus Ctiius$ also affirms that it was sacred to Achilfes, and remarkable for its white birds. Arrian^ says it had the niime of Leuch^ or the tVhite Island. The part of its history which Seymmis Cfaius' considered as most marvellous w as^ that the main land could not be discerned ft*om it, althous^h distant only forty stadia, or five miles. This is literally true; ibr the land ig inyisible to a person much nearer the ooast^ as will appear by my own subsequent description^ made from notes written while we were lying off the mouth of the Banube. Arrian thus introduces his very interestine description : ** Sailing out of that mouth of the Ister which is ealled ^iaon, with the wind AiiAPKTiAj,** the island of Achilfes, appears ; by some called the Course of Achil- les and by others^ from its colour, the White island. It is related ; Thetis gave thi» isle to Achilles, and that he fitill inhaUts i^; hi» temple and statue, both of very ancient workmanship, are there seen. No human being dwells fliers ; only a few epats, which mariners convey as votive oifferings. Other <merings, or sacred gifts, are suspended in honour of Achilles^ sneh as vases, rings, and costly' stones. Iflseriptions are also read thOTe,-ia the Greek and liatin language, in different metres, in honour of Achilles and Patroelus ; for Patrodus is there worshipped as well as Achilles. A number also of aquatick biras are seeni such as ihs larus, the diver, and Ae sea-qtuail. Those bir^ . * Pindar Nem. f "EgaftTtoi, Pelicans. ^ Ipfaigen. in Taur. $ Scymnus Ghitts, Frag. 1. 45. ^ Arrian. Peripl. Pcmt. Evx. p. 21; Ed.- Had*. Or. 1698. ** Apatc^oi was a name giyea by the Greeks to the north wiad, as v^* pears by this passage from Pliny : *<'From the north blows the wind Se? • <TBKTBiO; and between that and the lising of the sofstitiat sun, Aaui]*o : these are respectiyely named Chv the Greelha) Jparctias and BortfU** \ OL ARiqi'a TRAVBLS FJt&K T A&TART. me have the care of the tensile. Every morBiao; tfaej re- ir to the »ea, wet their jviiigs^ aod isprmkle the temple ; ervvard^ sweeping with their plama^ its saered paTe* nf A further account of the superstitions respecting } island is then added by thesan^e author, who relates that thiiles and Patro&lus, appear .in drains to those- who ap- aaeh it, and tell them whereto land 5 " all.of which," «ays Tian, " appears to me very worthy of credit" Many other thors, althouffh of less note, contrtbute by. their d<;«erip^ ns to the celebrity of this very interesting island. Philos* ktus* affords its dimensions, stating that it is thirty H^tadia^ three miles and three quarters^in lens^th ; and four stadia^ half a mile, wide^ and this account corresponds with its pearance, from the distance at which it was visible to us. is further mentiQned by Pau^anias^t and by Anwianns arcellinus.t According to ancient poets, the swslU of de- rted heroes enjoyed there perpetual repose ai^d felieity»§ ^stus Avienus^f although erroneous in his account oC kt uatioO) alludes, to this .part of its hist^^ryiii the foUowiag les: , V Ora Borfsthetiu qvHk fiaminM in mare *^Rrgtint» £ regiivie proeul speetabit ealnuDft Leuees; Leuce cans^ jcgam, Leuce, sedes aninaruixi." In the number of ancient writers hy whom this island is sntioned, several, as might be expected, had confused and en fals^e notions of its position in the Buxine. Some of Bm describe it as opposite either the mouth of the Bp- sthenes, or the Tyras, others, as lying betweeD those ris' \l A few have confounded it with the neck of land which s betweeh the month of the Borysjthenes.and the .Sinu^ rsinites formerly called the Dromas AchiUis, and now lied JGilMuTnu. Arrian is the only author whose te;[t ly be reconciled with the true situation of the island ; and li to his description, in point of accuracy, is that given his predecessor, Btrabo.*^ Its modern names arer Ban Phnbstratus in Herpicis. Pausan, in Laconicis. " - Ammian AiareeU. lib. xxii. «r 8. . Th« Turks ftlao befieve the sottls of men^ after ^^atb, re»de in Uift iesof birds. . Festus Avienus in orfais dis^riptione. Strab. Hb. Tir. I TO TNEADA, IK TURKXT; ^27 Adase^ fmi^Pkidvnisi,* It is placed wrotifi* in all the charts $ in some it h alto^tber omitted, and indeed its existenee has been doubted by modern si^oe^apberflr. The best^and almost the ottlj charts of the Black Sea, are those whieh were printed in Parts : yet even in these the Isle of Serpents lies i.9 minntes or geographical miles, too far towards tne north* A greater errourpreTlEtils respecting the port of Ode^sa^ whieh may^lead ships into danger^ as it is placed at least ^'y»vt of its* position towards the north. The great obscu- rity ^Mich often prevails over the Blaek Sea in the winter, renders it a fortunate erent to make the Isle of Serpents, not lonly, as was said before, from the impfossibillty of de- serying the ooast near the Danube, but because ships are liable to run upon it during the night. The principal eanse of danger, however, must be attributed to tnie^ ignorance of pilots^ and a deficiency of proper charts. We ha.d on board two excellent sextants, ana observations were dailv made at iroon ; by tirese we found our latitude to'eauat44^. 44', the ship lyine at the time five leagues and a half to the south of the island* A third sextant, on board the vessel commanded by the captain's nephew, was idso employed by him which enable us, by comparison, to detect, with greater certainty, the errours in the French charts. Having passed the Isle of Serpents, we fell in with the current from the Danube. So great is the extent over which its waters diffuse themselves from the shallowness of the sea, that, although the discharge is scarcely adequate to our notions of so considerable a river, the effect is visible^ for several leagues, by the white colour communicated* Dipping buckets in the waves, we observed that the water was almost ^weet at the distance of three leagues from th^ mouth of the river, and within one league it was perfectly, fit for use on board. The shore is very liat all the way from Odessa to the Danube, and so low, near the river's mouthi • Itislaid dowQ in the miinuseript cbart of Fredwehis of Aneona, pre- served in the lArary of Wolfebutel, near Vienna, under the name ot'Fidm onixiy and delineated as having a port. That chart bears ilate AD. Ii07. Count John Potocki,in its illustration, states, that jPt Jo-JWxi signifies /«fe de la Foy. The count sailed from die Dnieper for Constantinople in 1784 and gives this account of the island, which he passed (hiring the tojage ; " J^qifait moi-mSme ce trajet en VavnSe 1784, et n^aipas manmt^ de dem mandev ^neae trouvoit ptu dans l*Ule des restes de (efnple ou aemielqut outre edifice. Idon me repondoit alor«, quUl 6ioit difficile d*y aborder / fant parceqtte la c6te itoit dangereuaeque parceque la terre y Stoit cou^ verte de serpent* venimettx.*^ Me moire sur en Nouveau Peryple du Pont Eoxin, park Comte Jean Potocki, Vien. 1796, %M GtARKB'j TRAVXLS FROM TA&TARY. that naotber object appears io those who approfteb the shore, than tail reeds rising out of the water, or the masts of ve^- sels, Ivine in the river. A very singular appearance takes place m the mouths of the Banube, which I am unable. to explain. The dolphins,^ which every where ebe exhibit a Airk colour, are there perfectly white. This may wear so much the air of a fable, that, in proof of the fact, I shall only state a practice which prevails amongOreek raannersy during mists and dark weather, of ascebtaining. their posi- tion by such phenomena. As soon as they descry the wliite dolphins, they become assured that they are in the current of the Danube, although in thirty fathoms water, and many leagues distant from its mouth. It has been already stated that the water is of a white colour, and probably, from this circumstance, mrises the supposed colour of the dolphin.f After passing the mouths of the Danube, but still carried by its current, we observed -four mountains with such reg- ular conical forms,>'Und so insular as to their situation in.a horizon otherwise perfectly flat, that we at first supposed them to be immense tuiMili, The captain, however, assured us that they were at least twenty three leagues distant to Wallachia, our situation being about three leagues from the shore. Soon after, another mountain appeared in view; making the whole group to consist of five. Other elevations of less magnitude were afterwards visible^ but speaking generally of the coast, it is low Mid flait. November ^nd. Our observation by sextant this di^ proved our latitude to b^ 34<'. fib' ; the ship's distance from the mouths of the Danube being, at the time of observation, five leagues and a half. The water, even here, tasted very lit- tle brackish. Sounded, and found a depth of one hundred and fifty finglish feet. We had calm weather during this and the preceding day. November sd. The atmosphere somewhat overcast. We discovered the coast indistinctly from the masthead, in thirty fathom water. Our latitude, at noon, was 4S^. 30*. November 4th. Atmosphere this day turbid. We had but little wind from the east, but a good deal of sea rose. From * Dolphin ia the name given to this fish, in these seas, and it is the Del- pUnus of Pliny ; ivhich I believe, is nothing more Uian our porpoise. They are ieen sporting in great abundance, and generally in pairs, in the Sti'aits of Taoianand OoQstantinople. t The notion of -white dolphim, in this part of the Black Sea, seems con- Ducted with opinions entertained bj the ancients concerning the vMteneiT « tkeisUadot AchiUesj and of the Wrda seen there. .TO l^SMiAy IN TURKBT. ^9 fuMtfjF, mitilfi?e loVIoek^ p. m. our eoarge was s. 8./ir. at ijMJt hour we daseried Cape Kelegry, gomewhat less than seven leagues- distant. Unable to make any observation of the »hi{^'s latitude. Cloudy weather and a heavy sea. November dth. The weather still hasy ; a light wind from the east, and a heavy sea. The erew observed, durins the day that^Mir vesssel leaked, and made about an inch of wa- ter in four hours, owing to the heavy sea. Atsix in theeven** ing. there fell a calm^ when we discovered the coast and at daybreak, the next morning .{^November 6th] observed dis- iinetly the land at the mouth of the canal of Constantinople, distant abont six leagues and a half. All this morning we were animated by the captain with such hopes of entering the eanal,.that we expected to breakfast in Constantinople. During our short voyage from Odessa, the captain, by lying po eontinoally for his nephew's ship, which proved but air in- dififereni sailer, had regularly lo»t one lei^ue in three 5 and it happened, most unfortunately, that we had to lie to agaia at the very mouth of the canal; by whi^h delav we not only lost the opportunity of getting in at that time^ but nearly sa« crifieed the erews and cargoes of both ships. The copy from our log-book, given in tl\e appendix, will best tell what our situation was in the dreadful storm that succeeded. Lands- men are apt to mi^nify the danger they encounter by sea^ hot it will appear that, in this instance, little room was of- fered for amplification. At midday we stood opposite to the light'house of the canal ; ttiis bore only ten miles distant to l;he west; but a cs^lm, accompanied by aheavy sea, prevented pur appr4)aelu During the evening the crew were employed in working 4he pumps. , November 7th. At sunrise, t:he wind had gained consider- able force, and the sails were reefed^ We still discern^ the mouth of the canal, and even the lighthouse on the Asif lUick side. About ten, we took in all the reefs in the main- topsail, and at noon, the wind still increasing, struck the topsail yards. A tremendous sea rolled over the declk front one side to the other, and the water in the hold increasing fast, all hands were called to the pumps, which were kept working continually. At four in the afternoon we had our last view of the canal, distant about eight leagues. Within half an hour afterwards the Black Sea afforded a spectacle which can never be forgotten by those who saw it. We were steering with a hard gale and heavy sea, from the s. s. w. wlien thers appeared, in the opposite horizon, clouds in Qq 4d0 CL ARXKV tRAVELft FROM TAKTART. the fbrra of fHAars, dark and' terrible t these were «4kirled^ upon their ba«es, and advanced, with astonishing rapidUj^ alon^ the horizon^ on either side, a^inst the wfnd* * Our captain, "who had retired for a short repose, beint^ ealled hj the boastwain to notiee this appcaranee, instantly ordered-att the yards to be strock^ and we remained under bars ^loles, while a general silence prerailed on board. The suspcoae was not of lone duration. Saddenly such a hurricane eaoie upon the vessel^ from the northwest, that we thott^t she would have fbilndered in the mere attempt to take it, as their mode of expression is,~ in poap.*J^urm^ one entire hoar the ship was suffered to drive before the s to rm, encountering all the fury of the wind and sea, withoutbeing^able to beu* away from the land. At every plrnif^e our vessel made, her bowsprit and forecastle were carried under Mater; a few sailors in the helm were lashed to the steerage, but almost every thing upon the deck was washed away. If the tem- l^est had continued half an hour longer, no one«f the erfew would have survived to tell the story. About five e^doek it somewhat abated, and the captain laid the vessel, as he termed it; a la capa^i hoisting the jib, and a portion of the maTusail, to get clear of the shore. Still the vehement an* tation of the waves continued, the deck being eontiaoauy nuder water. At six o'clock it came on to blow again ^fram the s. w. so that, with the swell from two opposite points of fhe compass at the same time, a sea was raised, which none of the crew had ever beheld before^ All this time the leak was gaining fast upon usy and w« passed a night that can- not ht described Two Turkish vessels, towards sunset, were seen under the lee of the •AronettOf both of vi hich fonn- dered before morning, and ev^y soul on board perished. . To hicrease the horrouri^f our< situation, scarcely any c^ the crew could be kept to their station ; hut slunk .away, and ctept to their hammocks, leaving the ship at tlie mercy of the sea. ... The next day^ Saturday, November 8th, at noion, we made the high land to the south of the canal, bearing «. w« and distant about tea leagues. The tempest continued as before, during the whole day and following night; but we were able * Taking a gale in fnipa, is done by oppositig the ship's stem to the ^vind, and letting her drive before it under bare poles. •\ Ala capa n placing the ship in a diagonal pOBitiaD, vith her radderto i^'cuard, so tUat her head is kept to the stfa^ hut the yessel lies statiooarr Apon the water. TO INEADA) IN TUTAKET. 4^1 ito keep the pumpft goiti^^ and gained eoiuiderable upon the Jeak. Three hours after midBight, on the morning of No- vember 9th, we made the coast of Anatoli^, near the mouth nf the eanah At hood, od thi« day, a ealm sueeeeded, which wtts, if possible, more terrible than the burrieane; the ship eontinttiBg to labour ioeessantJy, with her deek cootinualiy nkn&er water, the sails aod rigging flying to pieees, and ail things at the mercy of the wares. Tl^ whole of Sandaj, November 9th, was parsed in the same mamier, until about 4tx o^eloek p. m. when a light wind, springing up from the «outh enabled us to put the ship^s prow to the westward, and 4ibout eight oa the following morning, November iOth, we -again made the land at the month of the canal. The whole «f this day we eontintted steering, with %heavy sea, towards the s. 8« w. but from midnight until seven, a. m. Novemlier ^llib, a stormy wind prevailing from the s* w. we kept the chip's head w. and by k. when we diseovered the coast on -the European side, and a mauntain, which the sailors called Qabkiam^ to the n. w, of the harbour of Ineada, in Turkey. :Towards noon, the weather, fortunately for us, became more 4»Imy fiir we discovered that the ship's eareo, which was of •Dom, had shifted, the pumps becoming choked with her la- ding; and the vessel, at the same time, prepeaderating -Jlowarda ker starboard side.. We therefore opened all her Jkrbeard porthoks, and moved as much of her cargo as pos- ' ^aible ; but, finding it impossible to right her, and being to wndward of the harbour of Inea&, we put the ship's head tm the west, and, to on r great joy, at lour o'clock,?, h. came ' !• an anchor within the port^ in six fathoms water. The harbour of Ipeada lies in 41^ 52' of north latitude. A few seattered houses. upon itsshoreearry ona small trade, in the occasional supply of co^e, tobbaceo^dried beef, cheese, ^urd, fruit, and fresh water, toTurkish mariners, and other navigators of the black sea. Charcoal is also there made for exportation ; several fabrieks busy in its preparation, were seen smoking near the beach, and upon the hills above, .when we arrived. The chief part of it is sent to Constanti- nople, where it is aloiost the onlj article of fuel. Turkish boats were continually lading wiih it while we remained. There is no village, nor inhabited spot within three hours' distance of this port.* The interiour of the country was de - * The dtstaoees in TuilKey, Knd aimost ail over the east, are measured V time } timt if tfttay, h; tlie namber of hoan uaaaOj employed bj a ca- 3 CtAUKt^a TRAVEJtS IK t^RKEY^ *ibed as in a very dangerous §tate ; espeoialfy tK« roa^ to Irianople, owing i]t)t so nsoch to the adherents of the 3el chief, Fasvan Oglou, as to the n amber of Tarkisli »ops passing under various pretences, and to the banditti lieh more or less always infest that part of the eountrj. issels frequenting this liarbour^ generally prefer its north !e, where they £nd good anehorage, among gravel mixed th black sand. It i:^ only exposed to winds from the east> il southeast ; and is sufficiently spacious to contain a fleets ke tite port of Odessa^ however, it rather merits the appel- ion of a road lor shipping than a harbour f as a heavy 8e% 'ers'when those winds blow to which it lies open/ At tii« ie of our«rrival, there waiB hardly a sinsle boat in th^ ft ; but, before we left rt, we noticed five larse merchant tps, besides npwardsof thirty Turkish checktirmeh, M ting at anchor. The latter were station^ed close to the )re on the north side, where there were two eoffoehouses ; ise, in a Turkish harbour, correspond with the- brandy )ps, or ale houses, frequented by English sailors,, coffee ng the substitute for spirits or beer. In those cofieehouses y be seeii groups of 1 urkish mariners, each party squat- [ in a circle round a pan of lighted charcdal $ and, either 3king, sipping coffee, chewing opium, or Bating a sort of ietmeat, in shape like a sausage, made of walnutsor-al- ids, strung upon a piece of twine, and dipped in the cMt- ted syrup of new wine, boiled until it has acquired the nstenee of a stiff jelly and bends in the hand like a piece ^ ndian rubber. The coffeehouses have geated window^ . those of a common jail, without any glass easement, . as they use no other stove to heat the room than the i braziers I have mentioned, the climate cannot be very.. 'ous. When we landed, we found the earth still eoveii- ith flowers at this advanced season of the year ^ partieu- with those of a plant resembling the daisy; but with oms as large as an English shilling; perhaps thoise of Bellis sylvestriSf common in Portugal. We found a es of dtlium and the hyacinthus botryoides very abmi- ; also, a very beautiful Dianthu$f the flowers of which aggregated at the end of every separate stem. Wild ppeared among the rocks. We collected the seeds of il other plants. The trees had ootyetcast their leaves; e w^re surprised to find the heat of the sun. towards pon its march ; and these are eslSmated aeconling to^he pacG'Of 'n »vbwli geaerally ppQceea»at the rate of three milcswihour^ tTAlTdOtni OF I^fEADA. 433 rte hlfdSirfe of ffovemher, ton erreftt to 'render walking; a ^feasin^ exercise. We landed the eveni'ni^ of oar arrival : imd; a9 first impres^^ions are usually the most vivid in visit- ing new seenes, it may be well to note even the trivial events that took place opon this oecasion.' It was nearly nij^ht. A ndmber of Turkish sailors, black and fris»htfal, wer^ employed in ladings a boat with char^- eoal ; stngins; dnrina; tneirliabonr. Their necks, arms, and Icfijs were naked. They had Targe wiskers, and wore tur- bans. The rest of their clotties consisted in a short jacket with a pair of drawers. As we proceeded from the shore, a party of better dressed natives approa<$hed ud; every one of whom was differently habited. One wore a long pelisse, witli a high Tartar cap ; another a targe green turban ; a third, who was a Greek slave, and kind of " Mango here, Mun^6 thete,^ at every one's call, had upon liis head a small skull- cap of red doth. The heavy looking Turks, rolling their ydlow sleepy eyes, and exhaling volumes of smoke front th^ir lips, spoke to no one, seemiiig to think it labour to utter a syMable, or even to put one foot before the other. Some few murmured out the wordSalaam; upon which our eaptaiii congratulated us; adding, "The welcome of a Turk, and the fareweU of k Russian, are pleasing sounds.^ Encouraged by this favourable character of the people, we applied to one of them for a Ihtle brandy, which our crew wanted $ but were instantly checked by the captain, who asked, how we could think of asking a T^irk for brandy P and directed us to makeonr wishes known to the Greek slave, in a whisper, who would find means to nroeure it from them without oi^ fending their prejudices. None, however, could be obtained; tobaeco, wood, charcoal, and coffee, was all they had at that time to sell ; so, after taking a little of the latter, we returned on board. During the night and the^ following day, Turkish boats cofitinued tosail into the harbour; the atmosphei^e being clou* iy and vety dark, with a strong wind from the south, and a very threatening a&pect in the sky. Their pilots said, they came ^ to see what the moon would ifd;" it beins withia three days of the change. The next day we visited the north- west side of the port, hear the coffeehoasei». dose to the shore appeared the ruin of aa aneient mole^ part of which is under water; and- on its western side, as we passed in the lN>at, might be discerned the shafts of ancient eolamns, lying at the battom of the sea^ HaTing landed, we jbuad the Turk- if%4 GLARKBV travels in TCILKEY. kh sailors, with all f he passerifirers fvhn had arrived intheir- vefisei8« seated, as before deseribed, round pansof ehareoa)^ amokins:. The master of the principal eoffeehouse brou^t us eoff^ in little caps* without milk or siis^ar, m thick M, VfB drink chocolate ; at least one half of each cup bein^fii* ltd with sediments This ear interpreter told as the Turks consider a fcreat prdof of perfeetion in coffee prepared for use ; not liking it when presented oulj as a clear infusion. The reader, perhaps, will not feel himself much coii«ernedl to be further uiformed respecting such particular^. So fickle a thing is tasle, that Englishmen resident in Turkey, soon learn to prefer^^coffee made after the Turkish manner ; and Turks, after living 4n England, drink their coffee el«ar» The following day brought wiik it a greater number of ressels into the harbour, and many^of^he natives fioeke4 te the coast to sell flesh and fruit, or to>gratify their curiosity in viewing the numerous fleet assembled*. By mueb the greater part oftbem were inhabHants of the mountains that separate Adrianople from t he coast nf the Black Sea. Those mountains, although not of a nature to be described as AU J tine, seem to possess great elevation, and have many pro« bund valleys covered with iforests. Oaks, and other trees, flourish close to tlie sea shore. The cattle consist of «beep^ eows, and buflaloes. The mountaineers, wlio eame to Ineada, appeared as wild and «avage a race as the natives of Caa- easus : they were in stature stout and sb&rt ; and all carried arms, both as weapons of defence, and badges of distinetion. Their girdles were so laden with carabines, pistols, koivesy and poignards, that^ besides their cumbrous size, the mere weight of them must prove a serious burden. The handiet of their pistols and poignards were made as tawdry as pea- sible ; being richly mdunted in silver, atiidded with ivory, mother of pearl, and precioas stones. Upon their beads they wore caps' of black wool ; and over these, coarse tnrba&s hound abou4 the forehead and temples. Upon their shoulders they carried the.samekind of short cloak made of felt, or lleeee, which is wofki by the Circassian maiuitaineers ; and from these they only difiBer in being more heavily arjued, and in wearing the turban. . ' As their numbers Jn^eu^ed, our visits to the shove be- came less frequent; not so nmehfrom the immediate danger .to^whieh our lives were exposed,as from certain* charaeter- istick&of the Turks^ whieh had been manifested more than Asee very uB^^nivaWlyvaod whioh rendeml it impassive HARBOUR 09 INBAOA^ 4M ibr anjr of our ship's erew to venture ap the shore, or to leave the hoftt onattenfled. To these alarms ^rere added ethers from the disputes whieh had taken place amonc^theiii; in. their dealiiurs ; the noise of whieh reached even to onr T^sel as she lay at anehon The Turkish sailors, belonis^ing to the little fieet of boats, behaved better ; and from thes^ isre often purehased tobaeco, bread, hrandy^honey, and other Beeessaries. On the north side of the port is a series of basaltiek col- vmns^ fsrminar part of the eliff towards the sea, and thef jire distinguished by eireumstances of mineral association^ whieh merit particular notiee. On the same side of the eoast^ to the westward of the basaltiek rane^e, tlie strata eonsist of a secondary deposit, whieh inclines to the hori« zon at an an£*le of abont thirty five decrees. Then occur the pillars in their prismatick forms, preservine^ in the line: of their bases, exactly thesame dippinc^ inclination towards the level of the sea, and they eontinne the whole way to4he extreme point of the promontory, forminf^ the northern side of the port of Ineada. There is not a^ingle appearance any where, in or near the harbour^ to indicate the af^ney of suhterranean fire. The strata, of which the different ba- baltick layers form a continuation, are of luraachella, of oehreeus, indurated clay, of common limestone, or of ^rit; these are all terminated by the rans^ of prnmatick rocks^ which end abruptly at the point of the promontory ; their fiR^tfaer extensitMi heins^ lost in the sea. Therefore, as this •ertes of basaltiek rocks has the same dipping inclination which all the other sfrala possess, it seems, upon the most iHiperfietal examination, that they were deposited at the same time, and after the same manner^ as the other secen- dary strata; and, by attending to their internal struetnre and composition, this truth appears further established. Their form, in general, is hexagonal ; but rarely determin* ed with precision. The substance of whieh thev consist^ is decomposed and crumbling porphyry, so imperfectly ad- Jierinf^, that upon the slightest shoek, it falls to pieces*. la .climbing -the sides of the cliff, we found it dangerous eveH to place our feet upon them, as whole masses gaveway with vft touch, and, failing down, were instantly reduced to the state of gravel. Nuclei* of an at ominous substaneev might be discerned in the very centre of their shafts; and white ireios, of ah exceedingly soft, crumbiine, semi-transparent smatter^uot hatf iMi' mcft tbi^; troiyerseathe whoic ruDge is ^^ C£.A]tX&^ T&JLTELS IS TimKKY. a dtrtetioii parftllel to the base of the eolumns* At; the svmcr time^ the vertieal fissures betu^een all the pillars were fliled lljr a kind of white marble, forming a line of septaratioo be- tweentkem, whieh prevented their lateral planes from toBchifig. The vertical veins, thns eoatin;^ the sides- of th0 eslamns^ were, in some instanees^ three ineties m thiekness; From all these facts it seems evideet, that the basaltiek pillars oflneada were the result of an aqueons deposilkm^ and that their prismatiek eonfiguration, tike that of stareh) or the natural columns of trap,tseen afeHalleber^^and Huv* neberg, in Sweden, and many other parts of En ropey is en 4 tirely owins to a proeess of-cKYSx a lization, equally di»« played in tne minutest and most ma jest iek forms; whteb while it prescribes the shape of an emerald, also 4ireet9 the Dartieles of. other mineral substances to assume* that regularity of strncture, whieh has been the result^ where-* soever they have liberty to combine aceordia^ to the laws of eohesioD. ^ . - CHAPTER XXVt JPROMTTHE HARBOUR OF INEADA, IK THEJ BLACK SfiA', TO CONSTANTINOPLE. Voyage to > Constantinople — Entrance of the Canal-^Retum to the C^aneau Isks-^Otologicai Phemmena^^-^VoHve Mtar — Sm./ular Rreeia-^Origmofthe Thracian Bosp^*- Tus-^-^ntiquities — Of the Temple of JitpUe^ Utius^ and the Place called Hieron-^Frobable SUtiatianof Baritts when he surveyed the Euxvne — Jipproaeh to Constantino^ ple-^Disgustmg Appearance of the Streets-^^rrivai at Chilaia-'^Fera^^tate of Turkish Cowmerce. ON Friday, November the twenty first, at ten o'eloek ni tbeevenine, we heard a bustle in the little fleet of Tnr^ kish boats, and found their were all i^ttins to sea as fast as possible. The wind had veered, after a foggy day, to th# w. s. w. and the atmosphere became perfectly clear. Onr captain, followine their example, as, perhaps, deemiYig them mare experieneed mariners of the Black Sea, ordered his orew la w^h the aaehor* . Wben it dune On b^ard wt FROM IN£AdA' Td eaKStAMTlKOfLE. 4M9 found it had liwt one of its claws, whr«h the sailors deemed a bad omen ; and some of them suid, if we left the port wittif sueh an anchor, we should never hare occasion to use anoth- en We were, however, under weigh ; and, spreadinj^ ill* the gfeat sails to the wind, soon quilted theharbour bf Ine-* ada, steering to the southeast. At three in tbe morning of tbe^2fid, we were becalmed, and a hazy atmosphere sur- rounded us on all sides. At four, it came on to blow a gale froiti the ^orth, and we made our course £. and s, until eighty wfceirwe discovered the coast near the mouth of tfae*canal of Constantinople, and then steered s. e. Scarce had v»e made tJie land, when a heavy rain ftll which continued tilt jwiddayj and we were involved in stich darkness that thoSe in the poop could hardly see the fbrecastle. About noon^ the wind having abated, and a prodigious sea rolling, the weather again cleared, and we discovered the light tower,^ on the European side of the canal, at no great distan6ei The boatswain, first of all, gave us the agreeable intelligence of its appearance from the masthead ; and soon after we all saw it from the deck, stationed at the base of an immense range of mountains. At the same time the whole coast, both on the Bnrepean and Asiatick side, opened with a de- gree of grandeur not to be described, and appearedJike a stupendous wall opposed to the great bed of waters, in 'M'htch the mouth of the canal could only be fiompared to a small crack or fissure, caused by an earthquake. Soon af- terwards a fog covered us again, and we once more lost sight of land. We were then enveloped in such tliiek darkness that we began to despair, and dread another scene of trial in that terrible sea, which the ancients so properly termed A3B}fiO:i inhospitable.* The superstition of the crew served; however, to amuse us even in this state of suspense. Our old pilot, a Greek, hobbled about the shfp, collecting small pieees of money from the crew, which he tied a pin a rag,^ and bound upon the pole of the rudder." It was to buy oil,^» he said. «• for ihc lamp burning before an image at the light- house ;" a curious trace of more ancient superstitiotty when maTHiers, entering the Bosporus from the Euxine. paidtheii^ vows en the precise spot where ih^Phandry^ or light tower,' now stands.t Abou» half after one, p. m our hopes revived 5 * " Frigida nve cahib^nt JEtuam litto;» Ponti ; . iJictus ab antiqiiis Axexus iUe Tmtr Ovid. Ii6, iy^'Tmt'. JSfeff*. IV. * t •■• . ■ -, • **. . • t Jtdaopboii. m»t, Gr«c. lib. vU^.pp. 380.412*. * i %9t . •I>AEKS^a TAAVEttlK TtrRKJBY; ^ general err on boi^rd atinounced that we were close in witbtheiand. Two little Turkish boats, like Nautili, had been SyiD^ before o« the whole day, and served as pilots to eneoiin^ oar perseverance io the course we held. With- out them, the ei^itain said he could not have ventured to tarrj sueh a press of sail upon a lee shore, covered, as it was, by darkness. The rapidity with which they sailed was amazing* Nothing could persuade the captain, but that they were ^aue angtly'*^ and, in proof, he asserted that they Taatshed as soon as they entered the straits. We now clearly 4i8eerned the mouth of the canal, with the land both on the Enropean and the Astatick side ; the houses upon the shoro f&eing the Black Sea; and an enlivening prospect of groves 9A1I ^ifdeoe. Svery preparation was made for terminating •nr perilous Voya^ 1 the hold being opened to let out the a«iehor-eables, and all the crew expressing their transports t>y mirth and eoneratulations.. As we entered the straits, a misefable lantern placed upon % tower, on either side, presented to us all that was intended Id wtvt as ^idance for seamen during the niglit. Never vrere lighthauses of mere tmportanee, or to which less at- tention has been paid. An officer of the enstoms put off from the ^lore in his boat, but contented himself with mere* ly asking -the name of the captain, and did not come, on board* Alter passing the lighthouses, there appeared fortresses, Hie works of Trench engineers ; and their situation, on rug- ged ^oek», had a striking effect.* Presently,, such a succes- tion of splendid objects was displayed, that, in all the re*' BKmbraace of my former travels, I can reeall nothing with which it may beeompared« A rapid current, flowing at the ra4e of a league an hour, conveyed us from the Black Sea. Then while we were ruminating upon the sadden dis- charge of such aeeumabted waters by so narrow an aque* diiei,and meditating the causes which 4rst produced the won- derful channel thvough which they are conveyed, we found •urselves transported, as it we^e in an instant, to a new world.. {Scarcely had we time to admire the extraordinary beauty of the villages, scattered up and down at the mouth of this eaoaly when the palaces and gardens of European and Asiatick Turks, the villas of foreign ambassadours, mosques,mioarets>mouldering towers, and ivy-mantled walls ot ancient edifices^ ftiade their appearance. Among these • That oa the Europeaa side was the work of baron dc fott. FROM XMEJkDJk TO eOKYTAHTUTiDf ££•' Mi yite bebeld an endless yariety of objects wbieh seemed to re^^ aiize tales of eocliantment : fountains and eemeteries, bills^ mountains^ terraces, groves, quays^ painted {jpondolas, and harbours, presented tbemselves to the eye, in sueh rapid suc- cession, that as one picture disappeared, it was sueeeeded by a second, more gratifying than the first. To the pleasure thus afforded, was added the joy of having escaped the dan^ gers of an inhospitable sea ; and it may be readily oooeeived that a cospbination of circumstances more calculated to af- fect tbe heart could seldom occur. All the apprehensions and prejudices, with which our minds had been stored, re- specting the pestilence, barbarity, vices, and numberless fier- iis oi* Turkey, vanished as ideal phantoms. Unmindful of the inward deformities of the country, we considered only the splendid exteriour^ which, as a vesture, she puts on; ea- gerly waiting the opportunity which might enable us to mingle with the splendid and lively scene before our eyes. Suddenly, our vessel, instead of advancing^ although every i^ail was distended by the wind, remained immoveable in the midst of the canal. An extraordinary and contrary cur- rent held us stationary. The^aters of 'tlie Biaek 8ea, fiow- irig for ages, towards the sea of Marmora, had now taken an opposite course, and were returning to their native bed. At a loss to account for this new phenomenon, the captain ordered his men to let go^the smiiil anchor; and a numbed of. Turks, in gondolas, crowding round the •Voefemto, inibr- ined us of the cause. A southwest wind had blown during inauy days, and by its violence diverted the ordinary course of the current. It was necessary » therefore, to wait until a cliange took place ; and an occasion was thereby presented in which we might not only examine more attentively the scenery aronnd us, but also inquire into the history of a country, remarkable for the natiual wonders it exhibits, and highly interesting in its ancient annals. We iiad passed the town of BiiyUokdery^ a sort of wa- tering place, where foreign ministers at the Porte retire during the summer months, and which is fiikd with 'tillas and palaces belonging to the inhabitants of Pera. Onr vessel was anchored opposite to FeitiA^n^, a stmtlar retreat of less celebrity. Here, the canal is so narrow, that we found we couid^ without diiEculty, converse with persons on either side , in Enrope or Asia. The late hurricane had unroofed, and otherwise damaged, several houses in both these tow ns : and during the night ailer our arrival^ a storm L 440 Clarke's TRAvus x^ turret* raced with stfeh fury from the north, that iheNMm^o ana the Jronetto^ although held by stout cables fastened round the trees upon the shore, as well as by their anchors, drove from their station durins the violence of the gale. 8oen after midnight we were called by the watch to notice a dreadful conflagration at Constantinople, which §eemed to fill the horizon with fire, and exhibited a fearful spec- ^c.le from our cabin windows. This sight is so common, that we were told, we should find no notice taken of the ac- cident when we reached the city : and this proved to be the case. The burning of fifty or an humlred houses is consid- ered of no moment by persons who are not immediately saf ferersj and their place is soon supplied by others, built precisely after the plan and model of those which have been destroyed. , On the following morning, a contrary wind and current still prevailing, notwithstanding the gafe which had blown from, the north during the night, we dispatched our inter- preter to Constantinople, fo. inform the British ambagsadoar of our safe arrival; to provide lodgings; and also to iiriog our lettexs : in the meaa time, having procured a large boat with ft set of stout gondoliers, we were determined to adventure an .excursion as far as the islands anciently call- ed Cyanece^ qr SyinplegadeSy which lie oiF the mouth of the canai. The accurate Biisbequiua.* confessed, that, in the few hours he spent on the Black Sea, he could diseefii no traces of their existence 5 we had, however in the prece- ding e veiling, seen enough of them to entertain great curiosity concerning their nature and' situation ; even in the transitory yievv afforded by means of our telescopes. Strabo correctly describes their number and situation. " The Cyanese," says he, " in the mouth of Pontas^ are two Kt- tle isles, one on the European, and the other on theAsiat- ick side of the strait; separated from each other by twenty ^tadia.^'t The more ancient accounts, which represented them as sometimes §eperated, and at other times joined to- gether, was satisfactorily explained by Tournefort :J w ho ob- served; that each of them consists of one craggy island, but that, when the sea is disturbed, the water covers the lower parts, so as to make the different points of either re- semble insular rock«. They are, in fact, each of then • Busbequius's Travels in Tcrkey, Epist. I. t Strab. Geog. lib, vii. p. 463. cd, Oxon. t Voy. du. Lev, Lett. XV. T&p;0.IN£ADA TO CONiTANTlNOPLE. 441 jiMli^. t9 the main land by a kind of isthmoii, and ap- I»ear a» islands when this is inundated; which always laj^pens in stormy weatber. But it is not elear. that tlie Isthmus, which connects either of them with the eontinent) was formerly visible. The disclosure has been probably owing to that gradual sinking of the level of the Blaek Sea before noticed- The same cause continuing to operate, may hereafter lead posterity to marvel what is become of the Cy^nese; and this may also account for their multiplied appearance in ages anteriour to the time of Strabo. The maiii object of our visit was not, however, the iilustrafioa of any ancient author, in this particular part of their his- tory ; but to ascertain, if possible, by the geological phe- nomena of the coast, the nature of a revolution, M-nich opened the. remarkable chaanel, at* the mouth of which those islands are, situated. Some time before we reached the month qf the canal, •teerins elose aJongHs Enropean side, we observed the cliffs and hilis, which are there destitute of verdure, presentiiig even to their summits, a remarkable aggregate of enormous pebbles $ that is to say, hetere^neous masses (^ stony sttb- stances, rounded by attrition in water, and imbedded in a hard, natural cement; yet differing from the usual appear- fuieet>f breceia rocks; for, upoa a n^rer examination they appeared to have undergone, first, a violent action of fire, ana, secondly, that degree of friction, by long contact in yvater, to which their form was due. Breccia rocks do not commonly consist of substances so modified* The stratum formed by this sinenlar aggregate and the parts 'composing it, exhibited, by the circumstances of their position, strik- ing proof of the power of an inundation ; having dragged alons with |t all the component parts of the mixture, over all the heights above the present level of the Black Sea, and deposited them in such a manner, as to leave no doubt concerning the torrent which passed towards the Sea of Marmora. As in a field of corn long agitated by a piarti- eular wind, we see the whole crop incline towatds one di- reetioa; so, at the mouth of the canal of ConstanthH|>le, all the strata of the mountains, and each individual ftias9 composing them, lean from the north towards the sontb« On the point of the European lighthouse we found the sea^ still tempestuous, beating against immense roeks of hard and compact Islyu* These had seperated prismatieally, and Rx exhibited s«rfiiees tinged by iron, oxide wkereYer i^ai^4bitf& wa» effected. From this point we passed to the Cayanean Isle, on the Eiiropeafi side of the strait, and there landed. It is remark* able for an altar of white marble, long known under the name of Pompey's Pillar. Whence it received this appella- tion, it is, perhaps, impossible to ascertain. If the represen- tation given in Sandys' Travels, be eorrect,* there once stood a column upon this altar. He deseribes it as ^^ a pillar of white marble^" called valgarly, The Pillar of Pompey 3 th^ bases whereof did bear these now worn-out ebaracters; DIVO» CAESARI* AVG VSTO !.• CLANNIDIVS t'T'CLA-PONTO If by the basis is meant the altar« the characters iu*e no longer visible ; at lea«tthey escaped our observation^ 9andTa was too accurate a writer to insert such an inscription witk-* out authority. Tournefort confirms what he has said, by giving a deBcriplion of the pillar, although the sea would not {ermit him to examine it closely ; ana he adds> that the asis and shaft were not made for each other.f According to him, it was a Corinthian pillar, about twelve feet high, placed, perhaps, as a ^uide to vessels. The history of the altar is preserved by Dionysius of Byzantium,]; who relates^ that an altar to Apoflo was placed upon this rock ; of wkieby says Tournefort, the base of this pillar may be a remnant; for the festoons are of laurel leaves, which were from a tree sacred to that god. The altar remains entire ; and the loss of the column has only restored it to its original state. The festoons are supported by rams' heads,§ a mode of decora.^ ♦ Sandys? Tra^eb, p. 40. ed, 3. Lond. 156^. t Voyage dn Ley. Lett. XV. . ^ IMonysius Bjzantiua, apnd Gylliutn, de Bosph. Thrae. lib. ui. e. 5. $ During a subseijiient viBit which we made to this istc} with the eom- mander of an Americaii &i|;ate> one of his boat's crew attempted to break oif a pait of the sculpture with a lai^e sledge hammer; instigated by an inf^riour oMcer^ who wished to carry home a piece of the mar^e. We were fortunate m prevendng a seeond blow, although some injury Ivas done by the first. The loss the Fme Arts have sustained in this way, by our «wn countiymeu) in Greece and Egypt, cannot be too much regretted- A better taste seems, however, about to prevail. The example of sir «r, Stuart, who prevented the destruction of the Granite Sarcophagus^ ia fR%U imCADA TO CONSTANTIKOFXK. M9 f ioA alliided to by Euripidesy in the fine descriptive^ sceiio between Orestes and Pylades, at the Temple of the Tauri* dan Diana.* The shores of this extremity of the Thracian Bosporus were once covered by every description of votive offering; by tablets altars shrines, and temples ; monnraents of the rears or gratitude of mariners, who were about to bravo, or who had escaped, the dangers of the Enxine ; andi on this account, from tueir peculiar sanctity, the different places in the mouth of the strait were anciently dignified by the appellation of lEPA. The remains of those antiqui- ties were so numerous, even in the time of Tournefort, that be describes the coasts ^^ as covered hy their ruins ^'" and almost every ttiing interestint^or important in ancient histo- ry, concerning theni, has been eoneentratedy with equal brevity and learning, ifk his description of the canal of th« Black Sea.t To return, therefore, to the immediate purport of our visit upon this Q(|easion. The structure of the rock, of which the idand consists, corresponds with the nature of the strata already described ; but the substances composing it, were^ perhaps^ never before associated in any mineral aggregate. They %I1 appear to have been more or less modi&ed by fire, and 49 have been cemented during the boiling of a^ volcano. In the same mass may be observed fragments of various eoloured lava, trap, basalt, and marble. In the fijif^ures aro found ajgat^, etialcedony, and quarts; but in friable ami thin veins, not half au inch in thickness, and apparently de- ^sited posteciour to the settling of the stratum, of whieb the island consist;). The agate appeared in a vein of con- siderable extent, 9C0UDying iv deep fissure, not more than ai| iinch wide, and coated oy a green subgtance, resembling some of the lavas of Etna, wl^ieh have been decomposed by acidi- ferous vapours. Near the same vein appeared a substance resembling native mercury ; but in such exceedingly minute particles, in a crumbling matrix, that it was impossihie to^ preserve a specimen. The summit of this insular rock is the most favourable situation for surveying the mouth of the ^i^nal; which, thus yiewed, has the appearance of a era- flie great pyramid of Pjiza, by his powtivfe orders to those of oar troops in Kgypt, whio were under his coiumaod^ deserves the commendatioa of all Europe. , ^ • Iphig. enin Taur, t See Voyage du Ley. Lett. XV. addressed to the French secretary of state. 4M CLARKB^I .TRAVKL8 rROM TITRKET. ter, wbose broken sides opened towards the l^laek Sea, aivd, by a smaller aperture, towardH the Bosporun. The Asiattok sti^it is distiiijs^nished by appearances similar to. those al- ready described ; wkh this differenee, that, opposite to the island, a little to the ea«t of the Anatolian Hshthouse, a ran8*e of basaltie pillars may be discerned standing upon a base inelined towards the sea $ and, when examined with a telescope, exhibiting very regular prisnuatiok forms. From the consideration of all the preceding observations, and comparing events recorded in history, with the phenomena of nature, it is, perhaps, more than a conjectural position,, that the bursting of the Thraeian Bosporus, the delaea mentioned bv-l!^iodoFns Sieolus, and> the draining of the waters which onee united the Black Sea to the Caspian, and covered the great oriental plain of Tartary, were all tha consequence of earthquakes, eaused by subterranean fires> described as still bnrning at the time of the passage of tiia Arsonaiiti, and wlipse effects are visible even at this hour* The antiquities of the Thraeian Bosporus have been no- ticed in a cursory manner by many travellers. The Abbe Barthelemy, in his travels of Anaeharsis, h8», upon this sub- ject, been particularly deficient, considering the extent of his resources, and the importance of the discussion to the work he had nndertaken.* By estimatins^the nature of tb& worship, and the antiquity of the temples, founded by tha earliest inhabitants of the Bosporus upon its shores, some notion mi^ht be formed of the era in wliieh the channel iU self was h rst laid- open. Formaleoni , w hose writings -have before been cited, has entered somewhat diffusely Into the inquiry ; and a reference to his workf may be found highl/ gratifying t-o those who seek for infornouition in this reapeeL Tournefort has assigned the situation of the castles on the European and Asiatiek sides of the strait, as the places where stood, in ancient times, the fknes of Jupiter Serapis^ and of Jupiter Urius, called by Strabo, respectively, the tem« pies of the Byasantines^and of the Gbalcedonians4 Thejaiter seems to have beeu the sanctuary held in supreme venera- tion ; the district in wliich it stood was called, by way of eminence, TO lEPON. This appellation is noticed by He- rodotus, Demosthenes, Polybiust Arriau, Procopius, Marci- • Voyage d* Anaohan. I. t Hiat Philos. et Pojit. du Comm. ke. dans la Mer Noire. * Strabon, Geog, lib. vU, p. 463. ed. Oxon. rmcns nvkAOA to oaNBTANTXKoptE. Mfi iira9, mi IHonysitis of Bjzftntimn ; ^onie of whom expressly deeiarethat it was used to sif^nifj the temple of Jupiter Uri* us.* Oq wbiek aeeount writers maintain that it was from thi« temple Darius survejied the iiluxine, as mentioned by He« podotus ; but Herodotus does not speeif j the name of tbs iine from whence tbe prospect was afforded. The faet i8» that the Hietofi was not a^ine^le temple, but » town and ar port, cont&ininii* a fane of great sanetity within its district^ and sitnuted upon the Asiatiekside of the Bosporus.f *< The Thraeian Bosporus,'' observes Polybins| << is ended at & plaee'ealled Hieron ; in whieh Jasen^ at his return from: €olehis, is sard first to bave offered saerifiee to the twelve gods. This place, althoua^h it be situated in Asia, is not far removed from Europe ; being distant about twelve stadiai •nly from* the templi^of Serapis, which stands opposite to it vpon^ the coast of Thrace.'^ Mareiaaos also calls Hieron aciHititrj or district. § A due atteat ion to the features of the eountrj maj now, perliaps, ascertain the position of the' eastern monarch. If be was then placed near any temple, or upon any point of land, called Hieron^ low down towards, the share of the Strait, he could not have been gratified, witb* ^e project he souglit to obtain : nor does the text of He^ yodotns njiequivoeally warrant such an interpretation.^ Int^ our return from the Cyanean Isles, we landed opposite^ * I l^aye epdcavourpd to collect and compare the references; bat the- reader maj- find yet other authorities, Herodot. Melpom, 85 j Demosth, int Orat. <^<fi/. Polydemf etin al. loc. \^vid. Taylor in JPraefat. Comment, atf JL, Becemnf. p. 7.£^c.] Jbriam Pirip. PoM. Eux.-ad^fuem,* Procop. de- AedUf. JusHnpan, lib. ix. Mardan- fferacleot. edit. Oxon. Geog. Vet; Scnfft. Minor, p. 69 ; Polyb. Hist, lib, iv. IHonya. Byzant. ajmd GyBi &.mie. 5. Ofthisiramber Arriaii and Marciamu state, that the Bierot» -WM SO called from the temnle of Juf^cf Urius. Dionysius of JByzantium' sayv, it wm a faue buttC by Phryxus^ in his ^oya^ to Colchis. II is not eaay^ to reconcile the account given by Berodotua;. with the ordinar}" notions oi? ^e sitnatioD of the temple, or wiUi tfie {k>8ition of the modern town of Joro^ or Jorwt^ at the rocmtb of the strait ; since, according to Herodotus, the; MSeron, st which Danoa sat^ might have been one of-^e CyAu/eaa Isles. . "f fta nam« it stilfprieservcd in tiie affpellation of armodevn ixrmk^ /ofi» er JoTQH^ % Pply bias, lib. iir, «i. 5. Tbe passage is g^von fiom Hampton*. f: Irlarciani Iferacleotse; 'P^^l. p. 69. ed. Oxon. 16^ ttHHng at the ffieron^ and he beheld the adnUrabU Pontue*.' Kerodcit. 44j6 Clarke's travels ik t^jtrret. Bttviiehjery, upon the ArgjTORiati eape^* in order to ex- amine>the purtiealar eminence which stiit heaTs the najB» mttntioned bj Dionysins Byzantius^ of the ^< Bed of tb» Oiafttn^ or *' Bed of flercttles," We tlierc fdund the ea<ptlal of «, verjr aneient cofiimiv of the loniek order, not less than two feet and a half in diameter. It had been hollowed ; and BOW serves as a basin, near the residenee-of the Dervish^ who relates the idle snperstitions of the eonntry, eoneerning tlie moantain, and the ^iant supposed >,to be there bHried4 It is, therelbrOy evident, that a temple of considerable ma^*^. nitude onee stood in this situation; as a slight knowled^ of the eonntry snfiiees to indnee the belief that the inhabitants would never have been at the pains to carrf this pieee of antiquity there ;^ whateveV remains they may have removed by rolling them down the mountai^i. From this spot I made a drawina^ of the openiag to the Black Sea : showing the £tt^. ropean liffhthoose upon the point of the Lydans^ at 4he ex^ tremity of the eanal ; thernins .of an aneient eastle, on the A»taliek side, the Arx Munita^ mentioned hy Dionysitia By^antiits, ft» situated above the temple boilt by Fhryxns^ and a small port in fpont below the eastle, periiaps ancient* ly that of tttevQUy mentioned by the same author^ as the *'See Bttnduri Imperium Orientale ; Anaplua Bosp. Throe, ex.indag. JP.Gyltac. f « HerculiB KaINH, hoe est, Lectua." IHbntft^ B^^xant. apud^ Gy/- Uum.}kh. iii. o. 6. i The fables which have been related.of the giant and hi's sepulchre^hmA their origin ift the annals of more remote history. They refer to the stay ojf Amyeus, king of Bithynia (called, Hy YaleHus Plaeeus, Argonaut^ US. vr. f. 2000. the Giant J whowaa kilted by Foilux, Uie son of Jupiter. Hj# tomb is mentioned by ancient authors ; and if tradition has preserved the memory of the place in which it was situated, the orlgio of the temple will be thereby illustrated. § During a subsequent risk to the satfae place, I was aeeompanfed by_ tit mtist in the service of our' late minister at the porte, Mr. Speoeer Smith; Atkd caused a drawing to be made of this lonick capital. This is now in Mr. Smith's possession. Although the discovery of suek a reliok,. so situated, may serve to prove the former existence of a temple there, it by no means follows that it was the teiuple of Jupiter Urius; the temples .of Jupiter •were generally, if not univei-saliy, constructed of the Dorick order. At the same time, the text of Marcianus decidedly shows tiiat Hienw, was a «ame nv^n to a whole district on the Asiatick side of the Bosporus, and not mere- ^ to a single temple. The temple of Jupiter Urius stood in the oountty ealled Uierom as appears by the fottowing passage of that audxor. Kmtvu jl^Mgiov J^ov K^tx^/iAfroh tr £ vf^c e^ri ^; Ovgi8 cfo^ttyo^/mcs* Msrc* Mertic, p. 69. FROM IICSADA TO COlT^TAsmitOP&S Mf eommon baunt of ail persons navifi^atttistlie Bosporus.* Thr teffipks, indeed, whieh adorned the Niera.^ Mve disap- peared ^ but the features of nature eontinue the same ^ the awfol ehasm, which, in remoter periods, eondiieted the wa- ters of an immense oeean lo overwhelm the territories of aaeient Gre^ee, bow afifords a passage to the fleets of the- world, bearing the tributary wealth of nations ; white its* aspeet, then so fearful, presents every assemblage that eati captivate the eye. The Bosporus of Thraee, in whatever point of view it is eonsjdered. In unequalled in the interest it exeitegf whether with referenee to the surprising nature of its origin ; the number of loeal eireumstanees attached t6 ks ancient history; the matchless beauty of its scenery ; its Extraordinary animal prodoottous 9 the number of rare plants Moomtng amidst its towering precipices ; its fleets and gon- dolas, towns, villages, groves and «ardens ; the cemeteries «f the dead, and the busy walkft of the living ; its painted villas, virandas, flowery terrasees, domes, towers, quays, and uiouldefine edifiees : ail these, in their tum, excite andgra^ tify curiosity $ while the dress and manners of the inhabi- tants, contrasting the splendid costume and indolence of the east, with the plainer garb and activity of the west, ofifer to the stranger an endless source of reflection and amuse- jtnent. It was near midnight when we returned from this excur- sion. On the following morning we determined to leave the- Moderato^ and proceed to CoTistantinople in one of the gon* dolas that ply in the canal for hire* These are more beau-^ tiful than the gomlolas of Venice, and are often richly oma- mented, althoagh destitute of any covering. They are swifter than any of our boats upon the Thames; and tbiS' lact^ I am told, has been ascertained by an actual contest between a partv of Turkish gondoliers, in their own boat, and a set of Tnames watermen in one of their wherries. We passed the gorge of the caual, remarkable as the site ♦ ** Post Chelas esse nuojcupatumiB^on, hoc eiiFanum k Pliryxo Ne- ^bele ct AtbaraRBtis iiiio aeciifieatum, cam naTignret ad Colcbos, k Bjzan- tl$s<}uidem possessam sed cftrmnwK receptactdum attndum navigantiiiiiu Supra tempkim est mnraa io erlxemproeedens. > In hoe est Jtrx mumta^ ^Qam GalatiB populati sunt, ut alia pleraque Asi»." JHott^siu* Mjfxan^ tiust ap Gylli lib* iii. c. 5.. ' • f The tktropean and AsiaticV sides of the Bosporus) towards tlii^ mootK of the Strait, were anciently called ffiera, with a plaral termination ; as generally referring to (he number v€ consecrated plaoesi npoa the sh&re^ on either szde*> 44ft et arke's travels m nmESTw fit the bfi4^ eenstilieted hj Darias fbr the passage of tt9« nmiwrotts apmy: the grandenr of the scenery kiereasiiii^ as w<$ approaehed the capital. The sides of the canal appeared* eoT«f«d with ma^niiietftt pavilions, whose porticos, TBa^h- ing to the watw^s edge, were go pported by pillars of mar-^ ble ; wlien, aU at once, the prospect of Cons tan tinople, wttlt- the towns of Setitart and Pera, opened upon us, and filled^ oar mtnds with saeh astoDtshmeat and adotiratioii, that the* mpresiiiim oaii never be ei&used. Would only, that theeffeet prodiiced itpon the mind, eoald reeetve expression from tho' pen ! As nothing iivthe whole world caa equal siich:« scene, it is impossible^ by any eompariBOn^ to conv^ey an idea of what we saw. LeBruyn, one of the oldest European travel- lers, before the close of the seventeeth century, apbloi^ized^ for iatroduoin^a^desertption of this astonishing sight, after' the namber of relations whieh other authors had afforded.' Wliat nns4 then hcNthe nalnro of an apology used by an aa^ tfeor^ wfao^ at tlte begimiing of the nineteeath, ahoald pre-* auttie to add one to the utimber ; especiaUy when it iis added, that more has been written oo the sahjeet, since the days of Le Bray n^-t hail in all the ages which had f>receded him> from th& oarlif St ettablisluaent of the Byzantine coiotiiea,' to the lime in which he lived. In the long eatabgoe- thns afforded, no 04ie has been more happy in his deseriptioti^ ftt Constantinople than an author, who had himself no ocular demonstration of the veracity of bis remarks** The Turkish- aquadroB^ vetuvned from a summer cruise, were, when we arrived, at anchor off the poinfc of the seraglio. Ooe of the ahips, a three decker, thecoo»tritction of a French engineer of die name of Le Bnin, surprised us hy Us extraordinary^ heavty , «nd *the sf^endour oi its appeartuice. Its guns were^ <|li of poUsiied br,ass; and its immense ensign, reaehtng^ to^ the «urfaee of tlie w^ter, was entirely of silk. ' After what bad been said of the eternal magnifieenee ot- thi$ wonderful city, the reader Is perhaps, ill prepared l^r a view of the interiour f the horrour, the wretchedness, and filth of M'hich are not to be conceived. Its streets are nar* row, dark, ill paved, and at the same time full of holes and •rdure. In the most abominabietiHeys of London, or Parisr there is nothing so disgusting. Tliey more resemble the it^teriofir of common sewers than pjablick streets. The pa-' trifying carcases of dead dogs, with immense heaps of dung; iod mud, obstruct ^ passage thraugk them*.. ^From the ine* * HS«t of the declifte sua foil oC the Roxosuk empire, c* 17, TO COHSTANTSKOPLB. 44# qa&Uties and boles in (lie narrow eauseway, it is almost impossible to proceed without danger of patting an ankle oat of joint. We landed at Galata in the midst of dmg^ hills ; on which a number of large, lean^ mangj dogs, sobhs with whelps, wallowing in mire, and all eoTered with filtk and slime, were sprawling or feeding. The appearance of a Frank* instantly raises an alarm among these animate^ who never bark at a Ttirk | and, as they were roused by oii^ coming on shore, the noise became so great that we could not hear each ether speak. To this clamoor were added the bawlings of a dozen porters, vt^ctferously proffering their services, and b^inning to squabble with each other as Ikst as any of them obtained a burden. At length we were able to move on ; but in such confined, stinking, and yet crowded lanes, that we almost despaired of being able to proceed* The swarm of dogs, howling and barking, continnally ae* eompanied us, and some of' the largest attempted to bite.. When we reached the little inn of Pera, where a few small rooms, like the divisions in a rabbit-hutch, had been prepar* ed for our reception, we saw at least fifty of these mongrels collected round the door in the yard, Hke wolves disappoint- ed of their prey. The late storms had unroofed several of the bouses in ^era; that in which we lodged was among the number ; one corner of it had been carried away by the wind^ so that, without climbing to the top for a view of the city, we commanded a fine prospect of the Chlden Horny and part of Constantinople, through the walls of our bed-roamsy which were open to the air. Fera hatf recently suffered in eoosequence of a conflagration which had nearly consumed every house in the place. There was reason to believe some -improvement would take place during its restoration ; but weibundit rising from its ashes like a new phenix, without the slightest deviation from the form and appearance of its parent. The eiception only of one or two houses formerly ef wood and rebuilt with stone might be noticed ; but all the rest were as ugly, incoftvenient, and liable to danger, as be- fbre, and were it not for a few workmen employeu in front- ing the houses of the merchants, no stranger could discover that any accident had taken place. Considering the surprising extent of the cit^ and suburbs pf Constantinople, the notions entertained of its commerce^ and the figure it has long made in history $ all the conve- • The name applied to erery Christian in the LeTMit, sf whatsoever M^ tLA&K|t'$ TAATXZJ IV .TVRXET. luenees, tf imt ihe luxaries of life» mipbt be tkere expected FreTious to an arrival, if any inquiry is made of merchants, t^d other persons who have visited the place, as to the eom-> modities of its markets ; the answer is almost always eha« racterized by exaggeration. They will affirm, that every thing a straneer can require may be purchased in Constan- tinople as in Jjondon, Paris^ or Vienna ; whereas, if trutU Ve told, hardly, any one artiele seed in its kind can be pro- •ured* Let a foreif^ofer visit the bazars,* properly so ealied^ he will see nothing but slippers, clumsy boots of bad leather, coarse muslins, pipes, tobswcco, coffee, cooks' shops^ drog^, flower-roots, second-hand pistols, poigoards^ and the worst manufactured wares in the. world. In Pera, where Greeka and Italians are supposed tosupply all the necessities of tho f'ranks,,a few pitiful stalls are seen^ in, which every thin^ (s dea^r and bad. Suppose a stranc^er to arrive frMn a lon^ journey in want cif c!othe$ for bis body; furniture for ki& lodgings ; hooks or map^ fur hia ipstruction and amusement; ^per, pens, ink, cutlery, shoes, hats ; in short, those artii i^les which are found in almost every city of the world : ha ivill find few or none of theminCoastantinople $ except of ik quality so inferiour as to render them incapable of answer-^v ing any purpose for which they were intended. The few- commodities exposed for sale are either exports from En- gland, unfit fur any. other market, or, which is worse, Ger- man and Dutch imitations of English manufacture. The woollen cloths are hardly suited to cover the fioor of their <)wn compting-houses ; every artiele of cutlery and hard- ware, is aetestable ; the leather used for shoes and boots so had that it can scarcely be wrought; hats, hosiery, linen^ huttans, buckles, are all of the same character ; of the worst ^aiity, and yet of the highest price. But there are other articles of merchandise, to whieh we have been accustomed to annex the very name of Turkev, as if they were the pecn* liar produce of that country, and these at feast a foreigner expects to find ; but not one of them ean be had. Ask for a Turkish carpet, you are told you must send for it to Smyr- na ; lor Greek wines, to the Archipelago ; for a Turkish sa- bre, to Damascus; for the sort of stone expressly denomi- nated turquioise^ they know not what you mean ; for red leather they import it themselves from Russia or from Afri-. ea; still you are said to be in the center of the commerce of the world : and this may be true enough with reference to • Jfaxar is Ae Tarkish word for markets Q0K8TANTIV0FLS. 491 Aefrfisht. of ▼esseh passing 4lie Straits wbieh is never landed. View the exterrour oFCoDstantiDople, and it seems the most opulent and flourishii^ city in Europe ; examine its interiour, and its miseries anddefieieDees are so striking, that it must be considered the meanest and poorest metropo* lis of the world. The ships which crowd its ports have no connexion with its welfare : they are, for tne most part, French, Venetian, Ragnsan, Selavonian^ and Greeian vet* aels, to or from the Mediterranean, exdianging the produce of their own countries for the rich harvests of Poland ; the salt, honey, and butter of the Ukraine ; the hides, tallow^ hemp, f ursy and metals i)f Russia and Siberia ^ the whole of which exchange is transacted in other ports, without any interference on the part ^f Turkey. Never was there a l^ople in possession of sneh advantages, who either knew 4ir eared so little for their enjoyment. Under a wise govern* ment, the inhabitants of Constantinople might obtain the riches of ^11 the empires of the earth. Situated as they are, it cannot be long before other nations, depriving them of such important sources of wealth, will convert to better par^ poses the advantages they have so long neglected. ADDITIONAL NOTES, FLGE 6 line Jl- *' *^ w^*' interesting and remarkable pheTtbmenon.'^ 'The ssme appearance has been liince obsenred near Camlxridge, as ftcinierQns witnesses can testify, atid'preeiselj under similar meteorolo^eal 4araaBii8tiiiee8. The stars were, if posnble, even more perfect in their forms tbusn at Petersbiu^. This hap{>ened January l5^ at half. pa^' ten, a. k. during the rear of the publication .of this volume. An account of it ap- peared ih the Cambridgfe Chronicle. P. 13. I. d, 4. " Brpugfu -with them the pictures of the saintiJ' Bro- QiOYius, in bis account ofthe cit^- of Cher^nesus, hasafiorded historical evi- dence of the fact. ** Ex illo moiiasterio duas portas aris CorirUhU^ . . . «< Ime^tnes inai^iUtires . . • . Kiwiam deportavisse" Mdrttni Sromo- TiU Tartaria L. jBa«. 1630. The w«rds Imagines insigniores can only ap- jil}' to pictures; the Greek church admitted idols of no other form. P. 46. Note. " One of the late empresses favourites^ It was Rlmsky ^orzakof, a serjeatit in the guards, who succeeded Zoritz in the a£rectioQS 4>f Catherine the SeocMid. ' P. 76. Note. '* // wasfounded, accardifig to Auffustiny in 1653, during the reign of Jilexis* * The discordant accounts w hich have been published of the age of this bell, are owing to a oireurastance I neglected to notice : it has been more than once founded. The first cast Mas made in the reign of Boris Gudenof, and injured by a fire. The empress Anne, in 17;37,cau^it tobe vefoanded witli considerable augmentation of metal^ M'hen it wa$i^;aiB damaged by fire. Thisexplaius the cause of the different, statements made, eonoeriiine its weight and age, by different authors ; and accounts for the figure of the empi*e8s Annelvanovna upon its extcriour surface. P. 100. 1. S. « Could not benusunderstood.*^ TheHussians exulted very much in tlie failure of lord Macartney's embassy to accomplish the object ofthe mission to China . and 1 believe it is now generally known, that our want of success was owing to the prompt manoeuvres of the court of Peteis- burgh with regard to that country. P. 105. 1. 15. '* A distinction of dialect,^* According to the classifiofttioii of tlie Sclaves by Schloezer, preserved in the notes to Storch*s Tableau de /a Bussie, torn. I../>. 12, that people admit of a sevenfold division : they were either Russians, Poles, Bohena^ans, Vendians, Illyrians, Hungarians, or Turks. Perha]^s I may some day he permitted to discuss the interesting subject of the origin of these and other nations^ where its introductionL^M he less extraneous. The three great progenitors, the TarUr, the Arab, and tlie Goth,* have transmitted to their progeny die clearest and most de* •cisive marks of the source whence th^*^ were derived; It is singular, that Di-ora their opposite and devious track, the descendants of those families Itave all found their way to Europe. Th^ Getse^ established by right of * By Goths, 1 would not be ui\derstood to mean the barbarians who in- vaded the Roman empire from the east ; but the more ancient descendants of Geta, who, crossing the Dardanelles, peopled Thi-ace, and were the ori- gin not only of the Teutonick tribes, but of the Greeks. *< In paucis remanent Graia vestigia lingua .* Uase quoque jam Getico bavbara facta sono.** Qidd THtt. m9tfvno9AL iroTttu 4fa |iPB]tpinMeaBi(Ri, were Scaud eoooeatei^d as a nodeM, when Hie SteTi tnd tfie Moors, by the moet remote and unoonneoted operatioaa, poisested Hbemselvfes of the bordera. P. 195, Note. •* M th» time of making thi» extract^** &o. Iq the MoriMn^ Post of the 6th of MarrVy 1810, the following extract w«g givea of a private letter from Abo, the capital of Finland, respeeting the atroei* ties conimitted there by the Russians, bearing date February 6tb, of the •ame year. 'Extract of a Private Letter from Mo, the Capital of Finland, 6/A (Jli. ** It is with the deepest regret that'T coininanieate to yoa an acconnt of ithe perpetration of atrocities, scarcely exceeded by the memorable massa* jcre on St. Bartholomew's day at Paris, by the Russian troops on the inhabi- tants of this ill-fated country. In violation of an express stipulation in the ireaty for the transfer of Finland to Russia* a certain proportion of the in^ liabitants were ordered to be drafted, or rather impressed, into the empe-- l*pur'& service. The despotick mandate was in general obeyed ; and coo* Aiderable levies wei*e |fk'oenred, before their destination was known to be the inheres of the Euxine to fight against the Turks> In the province o^ Savo* lax the alarm became general ; and the people, conceiving that they were isxempt from, service for a limited time, ventured to remonstrate against ivhat (hey considered as an infi'action of the treaty. Count Tolesky, thfr ^overnour of Finland, to whom the appeal was made in the most respectf «! and submissive terms^ invited the inhabitants by proclamation to repair om Sunday last to their respective churches, in order to (rfitain a' redress of jgiie vances. This artifice had the denred effect. The inhabitants, who are .widely scattered, and difficult to be got at in detail, were collected in a focus; ^nd, while in anxious expectation for the proffered act of grace,, and un- .conscious of the impending danger, they were suddenly surrounded by .bands of soldiers, who, regardless of the sanctity of the place, and deaf U» the voice of humanity, 'dragged the flower of the young men from the altars of their God, from the bosom of their parents, and tlib enjoyment of a>l ttiat was most dear to diem in tifei and mereover butchered, without any ^distinction of age, sex, or condition, those that attempted by intercession or- force to soften the hearts, or avert tlie deadly weapons or their remorse- Jess assassins. In the parishes where those atrocities were perpetrated, no 2e(M than 700 unoffending and defenceless individuals Itave fallen victims to the relentless fury of monsters in a human form." P. 372. Note. *fSee the additional JVotes,'' 8cc. '' Chersonesum seir jCherronesum, Corsunum, vel Chersonara, Sari GermenHm> quasi flavem jircem, Turcae urhera eam vocarunt , nam solum quasi flavum iUe tractn» hfiibet. Quae quod superba, dives, delicata et chira quondam^ Graocae gen- iis coloniafuerit, universaeque peointolae urbs antiquissima, frequens. mag- nifiea, portuqne nobilissima extiterit, admirandae ruinae illus raanifeste tea- tantur. In extremitate isthrai illius, qnem.parvam Cherronesum Strabo .vocat, et in ostio ipso portus qris aogusti, ac per oniversura isthmum sieut }atitadoripaeutriusque maris est, urbs munim altissimum et magnum tur« ;resque plurimas et maximas ex. secto et grandi lapide erectas nunc etiam ^bet, ac totamari exposita existit. Aquarum ductus, qui milliaribus qoa^ tuor Gunioulis ex petns excises in urbe ducebantur, in quibus nunc etian Aqua purisaima est, ad urbia ipsius moenia conapiciuntur.. Est iu eo loco nude rivulus ille delabitur pagus quidam poo ignobilis, et non procul In rij^tz^ maris, in monte saxoso, Graecum monasterium, Sancti Geoi^i solemne ; anniversaria devotio Graecis ChrisUanis qui nunc in Taurioa sunt reliqui, uk magna frequentia ibi fieri solet. Urbs ilia k multis non solum annis, ve- rum saeeulis, et hominibus et habitatoribus prorsus vacua, funditus diruta t^isk vfistiUteiD^ r^dttctaest. 24«ri etturresintegraeadhtte etmiro opere S 9 404 ADDITIONAL NOTBS; fninptQCwe factae conipiciuntur. Principnm Regia Tel demittf la ea isi^m MiMe, et urbii mcentbafi, tarribos, et portis rongnifieta extstit^ Yeviim 4, Turcis insignes coIumnsB inarmoreae et serpenttnae* qaarum inUia arilm* loca aiipapent, et grandiores lapides, spoKatae et per mare ad sedes eoram in aedificiapubliea et privata deportatae aont. Id circo ad raajorem minam caarbs pervenit; nonaedium ettemplorum ne Testigia qaidem inreaTiMn- tnr. Urbia aedificia bumi proatrata et solo aeqnata sunt. MonasterHim Graeeum maxiraumque ia urbe est reHqaum ; parietes tempti apfiarent quideHH sedtestitudinenanon habent, et nmamenta aedifioa eju^^qoae ibi lerant insignia, diruta et spoliata sunt. Exilio mofiasterio doas portasaeria Corintiui, quas Graecorum presbyteri Regias portas TOcant, et imapnea iDsigniores, Graecos aliquos ad Volodiinirum ixiagmim Kusamiim seu Kio^ Vietislum Priucipera ea tempestate praedae looo Ktoviam dep<nla\iase,past- modum vero k Boleslao secuodo rege Poloniae Kioria Gneanani praedae Itidem loco, quae in templi maximi porta nunc etiam ibi visuntur, delatef (»8e, Russorura et Polonorura annales memoriae prodidere; Voiodiminiiii Principem Toanni Zemiscae Constantinopolitano Iipperatori earn urbem quondam eripuisse ; verum BaailiietConstantimlmperatorain Anna sorere in matrimonio ducta, et aacro fonte ritus Graeci in eodem monasterro i Patriarcha qiiodam initiato, restituisse. Quod et in bodiernum naque diem tn loeis iis<tem kCbristianis Graecis, quorum obseurae et parraeadmoduni reliquiae supersunt, praedicatur. Ante urbem promontorium vxisterej et Partbeniura, id est, virgincum appellatam es>e« Deaeque iOius aedem aa atatuam hubere. Ac earn urbem hberara fuisse, propmaqoelegibiiavisisse; ▼crura & Barbaris direptam, eoqne necessitatis dcductam esae. Eupatore Mithridate praesule sibi dilecto ad versus Barbaros bellmn eesaisae, ettanta ape ereetum exercitumin Cberaonesum misisse, ut etS^iJiis parker Stra- bone teste intolcrit, et Sciluri liberos quinquaginta (ut Possidonaa aoFibit) captiTOs babueritj et k Perisade praefecto loci ditione flecepta Boapho pot^ tus sit; Ac indeex eo tempore in hunc usque diem Chersoneaitartim mti- .tatem Bosporanis Regulis subjectam fuisse olira idem Straboaaserit." l}cp- crip^ Tartar, j^p. 258— 26t. P. 382. Note. *< See the additional J^otes-^* ke. <• Sidagois k Graedi, ^lOenncnsibus vero Sudacum, arx et civitas ilia dicta fnit Tartaris prorsfis incognita est. In roonte altissimo, saxoso et peramplo, ad mare siUl, in summitate montis, arcem snperibrem, alteram mediam, tertiam veto iufe- riorem arcem, muro et turnbus cinctas et munitas Graeci seu Genuenses Ttali condidere. Templa Graeca ex grandioribns saxis infinita esse, et c|uasi SRcella paaca admodum, nonnulla Integra visuntur, plurima vero tn ruinam versa et bumi jam prostrata jacent. Superbi, discoixles et deaides Graeci ft Genuensibus Italis fracti et d'ebilitati civatem earn amiserant Non contem* nenda Genuensium vestigia Graecis muUo clariora ibi conspieioniur. At ihsignem locumque quondam, ut ex minis videre Hcet, exthisse, ft Cbristi*- anis Graecfs, quorumque parvae odmodum rdiquiae ibi sunt, raemoratur ; Graecorum gentem eo dfscordiarnm et inimidtianim devenisse, quod fe*. sniVtae, quae dissidiisilaborabant, iie devotio^em quidem publicam fieri eique interesse volebant. Propterea templ^a iila infinita quam plurimi aedifica*- vere, quae aliquot centenaibiextitisse Cbristiani perbibent. Templa tria ^maxima Catholica, domus, mnri, portae, ac turres insignes, cum textilibua etinsigniis Genuensium in arce inforiori visuntur. A Metropolita quodani "viro Gi*aeco et bonesto, qui ex insulis Graecis ad visitandospresbyteroa illoa turn ed advenerat, et bospitio mc except mt, aeeepi, quod euro Hamanlaairoa g«». Turcarum earn civitatem i'ngenti muritimo cxercitn oppQgnaiaet^ ft cnuer ri^us fortiter et animose iJlk defenderetur. Terum com obsidic*^ Item diuturnam acfamen Genuenses diutiusferre, nee impetumtam nume* f®»i exercitus Turcarutn sustinere amplius possent, in maximum templam ittud, ^ttod adbuQ ibi integrum est, centeai aKqaet, ▼•)» at iUe UMrebat^ ADDITIONAL NOTES. ^99t^ anui&B fere vJri egregii sese peceperant, per dio aliquot in arce inferiori, i^ qaam Tureae irraperaftt, fortiter at animote sese defendentes, insigiii ck nvemorabili Tupcarum strage edita. Tandem in templo illo universi corid- devei Terapli iUius portaeet fenestrae k Turcfs roaro impletae. Caeso- rom eadaTerain eum usqae diem insepulta jacent. In id templum ne ac- cederara, k Caphensi Seniaeo quondam Tnrea, quem in ea arae perpetaum ille habit, ego prohibitus sum. Portoriura non i^nobile eivitatis ejus fuit. Vtneae etpomaria, quae ad duo et arapUus miUiarfa extenduntur^ fertilissi- Btft k CapHensibus, Tarcia, Judaeis^ et Ghristianianiinc etiam ibi colnntur. Kwn universae Taarieae Tinum optimum- ibi nascitur. Rivis arooenisnmis, ^ui ex altissimis et mediis montibuset sylTis^ quae admodurafrequeatesibi ■unt, ilecurmnt, univennsille traetusabiindat." Ibid.ji'p. 269— *S71. P. 386.. Note. ^* See the additiotialj^otes." &c. — Putant autem aliqui fosaani hano in Tanrioae isthmo faetam, eo nimirum perfosso, ut insulam cam fiiceret. Sed quum nemo sit, qui id pro certo doceat, non possum et ego dicere, quae aut qualis ea fossa merit, k qua noraen hoe desmpserint, an nimimm ad fortificationem aut raanitionero, an vero ad irrigandum so- lum ducta sit ; neij^ue quisquam mihi liactenus (quamvis diligenter inqui- renti) oecurrit, quicerti quid hao de re attnlerit. Neque egoitiam adduci possum ut eredam earn hane essefossam, eojus Herodotus libro quai-to me- mbit ; quod nimirum Sey this k ionga et diuturna ilia A«iiae et Mediae exp«. 4itione redeuntibus, ao exoribus tantae absentiae taedio seinris sibi conjugio . juncttSy ex quibos aumerosam jutentutem susccperant, inventis, beilo cam adorti sint, in quohaec nd suidefensionem k Tauricis montibns usque ad palu- dem Maeotidem latam fossamdnxerit ; Nam si nomen ipsiiThinc dandum, ne- eesse ei-it utipsorum ea Taitarorum opus fuerit; alias enim liescioquomo* do ab eo antiqoo operc eognominari Sta possini. Veram si sit qoi me infor- net, nnllam aliam in ea provincia essefossisim notabilem, quam hane a Scj- tharum nothia dnct»m, assentirer forte. In medio autem reiinquo, hoe saltern addens, qnod fossa haee k servoruro (qui eceei plerique erant) filijf ae Seytharum nothis ducta, Ori^a norainata fuerit, fortassis k fine ; Ideo enira k montibns Tauricis qui in Scythia erant (^ qua illi egressi sunt ChersoneSlh dequa nunc agimus, nomen dederont) usque ad palodem Maeotidem earn •dednxerttut, ul ea regione, quae ^hersonesus non crat, domum redeuntcs- domiiioa eldnderent" JDieserip, Tartar, pp. 92^ 225. APPENDIX. No. I. THE fonowing document is inserted to prove the remarkable fact, that daring a period when England was not at war with Russia, two Bnglislk gentlemen, accredited by their goTernmeot, and bearing with them re- commendatory letters from the English Secretary of State, were detain- ed prisoners m that country, contrary to the laws observed between civl- Esed nations. It is an answer from the governour of Moscow to their petition for a passport to rerurn to England ; after every application to the emperour, hy means of their minister at Petersburgli, hiad failed of effect ; given ^'erbaJly and iiterallr. . .. *' Le Comte Soltijcof et raortiJ|iB. qn'il ne peut pas contenter Messieurs Cripps et Clai'ke, en leurs procurant la permission de sortir hors des fronticres par la raison que ja ne depend que de Sa Ma-JEstb i'Empb- ukur mfeme : Ce quiconcerne l,env(n de la lettre an Ministre d'Angleterre k Petersbourg, ces Messieura la peuvent feire remitti*e par la poste, et elle sera rendue en toute surete.'* TRANSIATTOIT. •* Count S©ltijcof is concerned that he cannot gratify Messrs. Crippa and Clarke, in obtaining permission for them to pass the frontiers, since that depends solely on his majesty the emperour. As to the conveyance of the letter addressed to the Eogtish minister at Petersburgh, those gen- tlemen may send it by the post, and it will he delivered in perfect safety." As a comment upon this curious communication, it may be necessary to add, concerning the pretended security of letters entrusted to the post-ia Kussia, that few of them ever reaiihed their destination; they were all opened and read by the police j and often destroyed, or sent back to their authors. We had at that time no other means of intercourse with oar minister, than by sending a me^enger the whole way from Mos^w to Petersburgh ; a distance nearly equal to five hundred miles j and# wasin this manner we obtained liis instructions for attempting an escape by the southern frontier. NO. 11. FIELD MARSHAL COUNT ALEXANDER VASSHJAVITCH SUVOROF'S ''JDISCOURSE UJ>rDER THE TRIGGER:^* Being a Series of JnHrucHont dravm up by himself, for the we of the Army under Ate cs^nmandt ofier the Turkish i»ar ; and since traii^ tmttedi oy order of the Hussion Government, to every regiment in ihe service,^It is commonly called Smon^BCfXeMua, « DISCOURSE UNDER THE TRIGGER." EtH« 0SVXRA£ is BUPFOSEB to BB INSPXCTIirCI TUB IJHB, ASlt All- SBSSSIKG TBB TllOOm.3 imELS ek»e--.kipees strairfit.— A soldier mint stand like a diit!->I Upe the foiotb— 4iM fif th I don^t see ! •^ Discoone under tlie Trigger, is the harangue made by a general l» Am troops, when the Urte ts drawn out and the soldiers rest their piocet* 3 ATVmJUBlXf NO II* A wMicr't itep^if an vAreAtfMf --4n iriieetiAf , «n Ai^hine 9sA % luJf . 'Keep Tour distances well ! SoliNen, join elbows in tront ! i^'vnX rank three steps from the secMid--— in mai«liiiig tvo ! . Give'thedriimroomI Keep your ball three days :>^it may happen (bi' a whole oamp«iign» wbeft )ead4^ cannot he had \ Fire seldon^^hot fire sure! Pusli hard with the bayonet ; The bail will lose its way-— the bayonet never ! The bull is a fom-^the boywet a hem \ Stab onee ! and off with the Tutlt from the bayonet! Even when he^i dead, yon may get a scratch from his sabre. If the aabre is near your neclc, dod§;e back one 8tep» and posh on Stab the sccoud ?-^-sUh the thkd I A hero wUl stab half a doa«ii. Be aora yoar ball's in yoilr gun ! If three attack yon. stab the first, fire on the secQody and bayon^ the third l^This seldom happens. In the attack there's no time to load again. When you fire, take aim at their guts ; and fire about twenty balls. — Buy lead tromyonr ceanofi^Jr-^it costs little ! We fire sure-^-we lose not one bell in thirty. In the light artiUecy -and heavy artillerT, not one in ten. If you see the match upon a gun, run up to it instantly — the baQ will flv over your head*-The guns are yours — ^the people are yours ! Down with Vm upon the spot ! Pursue 'em ! Stab 'em ! — ^To the remainder give ^uarter-*4t's a sm to Ull without reason ; they are men hke jrou. Die foi* the honour el* the Vk^n Mary — ^for your Muher^'-^ar OL the fiogral Family ! The cfcnrch prays for those that die » and those who aur- Tive have honour and reward. Offend not the peaceable inhabitant f he gives us meat and drink -the soklier is not a robber— Booty is a holy thing ! If you take a camp, it is all yoiib \ If you take a fortress, it is all yours ! At Ithmael, besides other tbings> (be soldiers shared gdd and silver by handfuls; and so in other places ; but, without order, never go to booty \ A battle in the field has tbwa modes of attadc : 1. On the IVing^ which is weakest. If a wing is covered by wood, it ia nothing, a soldier wtU get through. Through a morass, it is more difficult. ThitMighn river yen easmot run. AH kmds ef lolMiichiaent yen nsay jump over. 2. The attack in the Cemtre is not profitable— except fenemralry, to cut them to pieces— or else tiiey'lkerush you. , 3. T^eMtaek btHnd'v^ very good. Only for a smalteorps to^t iwMd. IHeavy battle in the fiekl, andnst rcguhir tretM in sqfuares, egainsi Turin, and net hi cfteoncsw it may happen iigwwt TopIbs^ that ««pwre ef 500 men wiU beeompelled toforcelt8witythroM|ha«reopef6ortOO(^ with the help of small squares on the Jank. In such a case, it will extend m a column. Bnt> tiU now, we had no need of it. They axe the Godjor* fettingy vfiruijf, light-headed Frenchmen^iii should eyer hiy^pen to «» ^ march againit them, we must beat them m columns. -f Tite Rumiaii Archine » twtnoy^ghtinehes* \ The Butsian aoUUen bvff their Qvm lead* J The treatury of the nofsi. H The name given to the Jimnaru by the emprtats^ The Btsttkt Mp9H SfHP0nekmeni0^ 4h the jFWicf. TIm^^Mi itii«taM» •^thc Fsmpart U not high. Dows in the diteh ! J«mp of«r 4be irtliT Work with jour bayonet! St^! Drivel T«ke ^em ffiMiMr»! BeMme to out off the cavAirj, if any are at 4ift&d ! At Prague, the hifiMilPf «iit olf the eandrjr ; and they were threefeki, «Ad inor^, iiityeiwhiiMn%»» and « nrhde feifU*e88$ therelbre -#e atu«k>e4 i« eoltui^ia. 7%e St«hn* Break down the fence ! Throw wattka ^«r1iie holet ! Run as fast as you cv^ ! Jump cnrer the palisadea t C^ast your €h»Mi ! [in- toiAia ditotil Id&t^^kB^ the ditah ! I^iy on your ladders ! Saourti^ eolvms ! Fire at their heads ! Fly over the walbf Stab f^m on the rempavfa! Dramr ost yotr Itae ! ?m a 9«Rid^ Hmt powder^e^lan \ Open ««e<if the Stes ? The eavalry will enter on the enemy ! Tttrn bis gima againit him ! te doam «be streets ! Fb« hririd^l There'aiHP tine to rw aftirihgm ! Whe& the order is KtTen, enter the town ! Kill evm eacmy ki tihe ntreets ! l<et the eavalry liaek tesn ! EnCer vb bouses f ^tnmi liktm m the open pkees, wherd they are gathering. Tid^e poaseMNn^f liK Ofon pifecea? I%t a^pNal gna»l I loatwiOy put piqiieta-to tfw 'gaCes, -to the powder-ceikrs, and to 3ie marines ! When llie.«a0Bty has sorrenderad^ give him qaai<er ! When the innar wnU i« oeeaftted» goto pinndar ! There are thi«e snihtarar talents : 1, The Coup d* mil. How to ^aee « aamp. Hear totnarch. Wbat^ io attadc % to cdtaae' $ and to heat the enen^. 2. Swiftness The field artiTery most march halfor a wlialeTnnt in fronCy in the ri^ag ground, that it mafitot impei^ the maMh^die oohtnuis. Whetk the eoinatin arnres, it witt find ita place again. Hown htt, and on even graand, let it go in a trot Soldiers maidi in liles, or ianr ahreaat^ «» Mk -oouat oif narrow roads, atmets,iiareo«r bridBes^and nasreiw passes thMn^ 4)ii8rriiey «ttd swnmpy placea; and only i^en ready for ntliack draw iip in "pkitoons, to ahevten the i«ar« When yoq mapch four abreast^ leave n apaec between the companies. Never slacken your pace ! Walk onl Playf Sing yonr tongs ! Beat (he dram! When ycm have krcken off-^ ten lersts, the first eompany; east off their ioad and He down* Atler them, the •eeeood company; and sosfbrth, ooe after the oUher. Bbt the first ne^tfV .-fhnt for tiie rest \ A iioe in -oolumm will, on the mamh, niw^ya 4paw atif. At four abreast it will draw out one and a>haif more tina tta length. At two abreast it will draw oot ilonbte. A -line aaie verak in \eagth wiH draw 4«it ivte, T^M vvnts wtt -draw sMit faut* / ao the &raft eompai^es wonld have to wait JEbrthe^daenhalf An honr, toao pnrpose. After the first t«B verats, tm iMM^a vest The Arst 4i«itt0» that«R«ved (upon the eomSng of -the scwond) takes op its bM;gage, and moves fcrward ten or fifteen paceg : flSKl if Jt^fiaaBCs <i^toogh deftest on the maneh, fifteen or twenty paoes. And in ^taa manner, divisionnfter.division, that the hindmost may (^raat. The second ten ▼erBts> another boon's rest, or more. If the tfird dis* tMi»eisiees<«hanten Ter«ts, halve it, and rest three quarters, half, or a quarter of an honr ; that^e childfen^ may soon getto di^hr kettles. So sanch for the itdatktrj* The cavalry marches before. They jJight from their horses and rest a short time, and march more than ten versts in one stage, that the jioraea may rest in Ike oamp. The kettle-wagons and the tent-wagons go on before. When the 4f«(ft«v^4krrtve, the ieettle is ready. -The maeter o# the mefs instontly aerves out the kettle. For bi^nlEfast, foi^i' houm i^st; • // M imposnble in thia translation, conaistentlt/ with fidelity, t9 ^^flTf^erm the irewiy imdeswtg^ <if^ nrifpngl Rmaiani. t ThU is a Russian mode 0/ expression. Tit prisceed ten 'Versts, fhey eajf to break of teu > .. • . ^ . . * Children und iffi^htn.^^ppelUtHons given by Swor^fto his troops- •nif sU or «tglit hours at night, accopdiiig «8 tb« road pvoves. Wh«n yw . draw near the eoemy, the kettle-wagona remaia witb the tcot-wagons, aad \woodmuat fee prepared befoi-ek»Bd. By this manner of marching, -soldiers suffer no fatigue. TW catcmv ' ;does not expect us.— He reckooa us at least a hcaidted versta ww^J fnd when we come from far, two hundred, or three hundred, or more. We &U all at once upon him, like smno oh the head. His head tunis. Attack ma^fiv ■mth vhatever arrives ;* with wliat God sends. Th-^eaTOhy m»J»»J*y ?" :to work— AocA: and alath/ 9tab and drive/ Cut them off! Doet give them a moment's rest ! ^ .^ ^ ^ i, ^^ ^. 3. Energy, One leg strengthens the other! One hand fortifiea tiie other ! By firing many men are kifled! The enemy has also hands; fairiifaie knows not the JRmsian bayonet / (alhiding to the Turks.) Draw tiot the line immediately , and instantly altaek with cold arms / (the bayonet.) It there is not time to draw out the liiie, attack from the defile, the iatutry with the bayonet , and tho cavalry will he at hand. If there be a defile for a verst, and cartridges over your head, the guns will be yours! Com- ,inouly the cavahy makes the first attack, and the infantry foUowa. In general cavalry must atUck like infantry, except in swampy ground; and there they must lead Aeir horses by the bridle. Cossacks wiU go through any thing. WTien the battle is gamed, the cavalry pursue and Mhck the enemy, and the infantry are not to remain behind;. In two files there |k strength— in three fites, otren^th and a ;ia(/:+— The first tears— the #econd throws dowu"— «nd the third perfects the work. Sides fir Diet. Have a dread of th€ hosptal ! German physick sUnks .from afar, is good for nothing, and rather hurtful. A Russian soldier is not used to it. Messmates know where to find roots, herbs and pismires. A soir difcr is inestimable. Take care of your health ! Scour the stomach when it is foul! Hunger is the best medicine ! He who neglects his men— it an officer, arrest — ^if a sub-officer, lashes^ — and to the private, lashes, if he neglects himself. If loose bowels waiit food, at sunset a little gruel and bread. For costive bowe!s, some purging plant in warm water, or the Uquoriee root. Remember, gentlemen, the field physick of Doctor BeUtf- jko<«A?i .^$— In hot fevcn eat nothing, even for twelve daysf—^nd dnnk your soldiers' ^ifOMl-^that's a soldier's physick. In intermitting fovea, neither eat nor drink . It is only a punishment &r neglect,if heakh ensues. 'In hospitals, the first day the bed seems soft— ^ second> comes French soup — and the third, the brother is kud in his coffin, and they draw him away ! One dies, and ten companions round him inliate hisexpitu^baKatb. . In camp, the sick and feeble are kept in huts, and not in viUaf^; there the air is purer. Even without a hosfntal, you must not stmt your money for medicine, if it can be bought , nor even for other neeeasaries. * Whatever arrives. Suvorof began the attach as soon as the colours mrrived,' even if he iuid but half a regiment advanced. t Strength and a half. A common mode of expression in RusHa, Suvo- rof aimed at the style and language of the common soldiers, vtkich renders hss composiHon often obscure. 4 Lashes.—*?^ literal translation of the originatis sticks. Professor l*aUao mpposed thU to have been a manual 0f medidn^ dfor the use ^thearrngf., tr JS&re he endeai^ffburs to counteract a Ruoasan prejudice, tka$ it is fsvourabie to immoderate eating daring fevers. fubU^i I A sour bevertigOf wade of fomented J^ur and water. . APFENSIX, NO II. 9 Bnt an tWs is frivolous — we know Low t<y preserre ourselves ! Where one dies in a hundred with others, we lose not one in five hundred in the course of a month. For the healthy, driiik, air, and food — ^for the sick, «r, drinhy and food. Brothers, the enemy trembles' for you ? But there is another enemy, greater than the hospital — the d-mn'd idorCt knmv /* From the half-confessing, the guessing, lying, deceitful, the palavering equivoofttion,')' squeamishness, and nonsense of doii^t knovf, many disasters •riginate. Stammering, hackeringj' — and so forth ; it's shameful to relate ! A soldier should he sound, brave, firm, decisive, true, honourable ! — Pray to God! from -Wm comes victory and miracles ! God conducts us ! God is •ur general !— For the / don't know, an officer is put in tlie guaixl — A staff-officer is served with an aiTest at home. Instruction is lig-ht / Not instruction is darkness f The -work fears its piaster '/i — ^If a peasant knows not how to plough, the com will not grow ! One wise man is worth three fools ! and even three arc little, give six 1 and even six are little,^ give ten ! One clever fellow will beat them all— overthrow them — and take them prisoners ! In the last campaign the enemy lost 75,000 loell-cotmted men — perhaps »ot much less than 100,000. He fought desperately and artfully, and we lost not a full thousand.^ There, brethren, you beheld the effect of ailitary instruction ! Gentlemen officers, what a triumph ! N. B. This translation has been rendered perfectly literal ; so tliat effect is often sacrificed to a strict attention to tke real signification of tke words^ instead of introducing parallel phrases. * Suvarofhad so ^reat an aversion to anypersorCs saying I don't know, 471 unsrver to his Questions, tJiat he became ahmst mad -with passion. His officers and soldiers -were so well a-ware oftlds sifig^daiitu, that they Tvould hazard any ansrwer instantly ^ accurate or not, rather than venture to incur ^his displeasure by professing ignorance. . •)■ 7%e words here are some of them not to be translated, and seem to be the coinage of his own fancy. The Russians themselves cannot affix art explication to them. 4 ►^ Russian proverb. § Here Suvorofis a little in his favourite character of the buffoon. He generally closed his harangues by endeavouring to excite laughter among his troops ,• and this mode offormi?ig a climax is a peculiar characterise tick of the cowversation of the Russian boors. In this manner : " And mot only of the, boors, but the gentry ! — and not only of the gentry, but tlie nobles ! — and not only of the nobles, but the emperour '." . % A slight exaggeration of Suvarof's, B NO. 111. SiATE OF ENGLISH CUMMERCE iir THE BLACK SEA, BY A MEMBER OF THE LEVANT COMPANY. TO WHiea ABE A]fir£X£J>, Certain Official Docwments Extracted from the *^ RegUtrary of the JBritish Chancery Office at Constantinople." «« jfVT length an end lias heen put to the* reluctant hostilities produced partly hy hostile influence, and partly hy misnaanagement, between Eng- land and Turkey. Having now to begin over again in that empire, after the interruption of an amicable intercourse of two centuries, it is to be lioped we shaH retrieve past errours. Political misfortune is but another name foi^a^sconduct. With the terms of the treaty of peace, coDcluded on the 5wi of January, 1809, we are not likely to be made acquainted until after the ratification. But there is one point which w^ may take for gi*anted cannot have been neglected in framing the instructions for the negotiation, and to which the attention of our mei*chants, ship-owners, and iTiariners, cannot be too early directed, namely, the freedom of the Black Sea, as established in favour of this country In 1799. Those waters hare been strangely overlooked by statesmen in our days, as a sort of blank upon the map. In fact, the Genoese and the Venetian republicks seem to have been the only powers of modern Europe thoroughly aware of the impor- tance of access to the very heart of the continent, afforded by that inlet; although the policy of the Bomans, on that head, is discoverable, in the war against Mithridates. The principal treaty extant between the crown «»f England and the Ottoman sultans, does indeed show some vestiges of our having had footing there in the days of queen Elizabeth, or James I.; but when we ceased to frequent the Black Sea is not ascertained. All the imformation upon record seems to be made use of in the fii*st of the three* documents annexe<l ; which is the memorial whereby Mr. Smith, his iiaajesty's minister plenipotentiary at theporte, solicited afresh recognition, taivtiiraount to a new creation, of the right of access, in favour of the British flag, already alluded to. This was speedily obtained, as appears %y the second document, which declares the assent of the late sultaa SeUo* thereto. By one of those eccentrick movements, whieli charactenae English diplooiacy, that minister was superseded, a few weeks afterwanb ly the earl of Elgin, who was invested with the rank of amUassadonr extraordinary. But it was not until after the noble earl had been rep]**^ liy Mr. Stratton, in the character of charge d^affavres, that the third anfl last document of the series was. published in the London Gazette ot the 14th of September, J802. <* Tq -u^hat extent the enjoyment of our privilege, thus renovated, "^M carried during the subsequent embassy of Mr. Drummond, is not precisely known : at last, howevpr, a total interruption of this beneficial pursuit, w Its still infant state, was one of the lamentable eonseouences, amon§« ' :^hers, of Mr. Arbuthnot'a unaccountable Uegira frtm GoHiten^op»" i«0r->(V**«ir<J the Endysiaen fngate.) APPENBIXi VO. ill. 7 ^ AHhougli it is not a part of the present subject to traoit p^tttiealelEsets to their causes, yet this slight retrospect has already introduced such a catalogue of names, as it is impossible to take leave of without a word of regret that the pernicious influence of what is by common consent, called interest (although a more appropriate epithet might be employed) should be found to extend its discoura^mg effects to the filling important foreiga iqissions with novices : while mmisters, regularly brought up in the diplt' inatick school, are laid upon the shelf like yellow admirals. With tlie tw« exceptions of the gentleman first named, Mr. Smith, and Mr. Stratton^ both of whom completed their servitude in the subaltern ranks of the foreign line ; the former, as secretary under Mr. Listen, when amhassadour at Constantinople in 1793 ; and the latter, under sir R. M. Keith, at Vienna, in 1788. The other representatives of his majesty at the porte, during the interval under review cannot be considered as qualified either by professional education, by official experience, or by local residence. t» manage our concerns in the Levant. Even down to the very last appoint' ment^ to a special mission thither, destined to treat with a country- con- vulsed by internal commotions, can it be said that personal knowledge' of the orientals was in the slightest degree attended to ? It is not the aim of this discussion to detract from the possible ment of any candidate, nor t* withhold approbation from tiie useful employment of abilities : although something might be said upon the palpable combination of the Turkish negotiation with the change of system, in one, at least, of the imjierial courts ; otherwise the preservation of amity, with a power so ^"itically situated in its interiour, as well as in its extefiour relations, as the Ottoman porte, would be precarioas indeed. But the general respectability of the ciMMce, any more than the success attending Uie experiment, cannot mili- tate against the fact, that, ^ith the third report of the finance committee lying on the table of the house of commons, in the Appendix to which (No. 63, dated 15th March, 1808) are registered the names of five ex- diplomatists M'ho had served in that quarter, and are pensioned oif to the amount of /. 8,950 annually : with the contingent pension list thus charged,, Mr. Adair was sent to set foot iu Turkey for the first time in his life. ** To conclude. After reorganizing our old establishments on this aide of the Bosphorus, we shall, in all probability, have to form new ones in the Euxine regions. We have the successful example of oui' natural rivals before our eyes, as to the advantages derivable from preliminary inforraa- tion* whether statistical, geographical, orhydrographical,in the intercourse with foreign countries, fevery intelligent traveller knows how indefMtigable the French are in their acquisition, and how methodical in the application, of all those branches of local knowledge to the purposes of war or peace. This department of study is too much left to chance amongst us. In pro- portion to our population, we possess a greater number of well informed individuals than any other country, perhaps, except pai'ts of Germany. But our progressive kno^v ledge of the globe is not digested into convenient Mid authentick form. Our marine charts, some local surveys attached to expensive publications excepted, are in BCQcral, so defective as to disgrace a naval nation . One map maker copies me antiquated blunders of auothor : and thus is errour perpetuated by each succeeding publication ; in which the map seller is "more attentive to the workmanlike appearance of the article, than to the scientifick merit of the performance. The revival of Levantine navigation ofiers a desdrable opportunity for rectifying the hydros ^raphy of Ihe BlAck ^ea. S APPENDIX, NO. III. Memorial pretented to the sublime Ottoman Porte, by Me majeiftft minister plenipotentiary, Mr. I. S. Smth. •* His Britannick majesty's minister plenipotentijiry has already taken occasion to apprise the sublime Ottoman porte of a petition haying heen presented to his majesty's government, on the part of an ancient corpora- tion (not unknown to the illustrious Ottoman ministry) entitled, by royal charter : * The Company of Merchants of England, tmding into the Levant seas.' The prayer of which petition is, to obtain from the sublime jiorte the same advantage^} as are enjoyed within the Ottoman empire, by- other more favoured nations, meaning thereby, in express terms, the privilege successively recognised in favour of the Russians and Germans, relative to the navigation of the Black Sea. In addition to the earliest communication of the fact, the English minister thought it expedient to avail himself of the friendly intercourse arising out of the mutual duties of alliance, in order to prepare the Ottoman ministers of state for the more formal agitation of the question, by previous confidential explanation of the opinion entertained by his superiours upon its merits. He is glad of this publick opportunity to acknowledge the favourable reception of those preliminary overtures, which it is now become his duty to authenticate, as well as to substantiate his verbal arguments, by the present detailed expo- sition. ** Prior to the treaty of defensive alliance, concluded on the 5th of January, 1799, the pohtical relations of the two empires rested on the basis of ' THI SACRED CAPITULATIOK8 AND ARTICLES OF THE PEACE,' AS they have been digested in the times of several ambassadours :* and as they have been revised and amplified in 1661-2, by the earl of Winchelsea,f ambassadour extraoixlinary from king (Charles H And also as they hare been since augmented and renewed at Adrianople in 1086, A. H. 1675, A. D. by sir John Finch, Knt ambassadour in ordinary from bis said majesty to the emperour sultan Mohammed Khaan. " This treatv contains several articles which apply with peculiar force, to the present case, viz. 1. 4. 7. 18. 22. 27. 36, and 38.^: to which the nmiersigned begs leave resnectfiilly to refer. ** The text of articles 1. 4. and 7. sets forth in general, but in mostcom' prehensive terms, that * the English subjects and dependants may, with their merchandise and faculties, freely pass and repass into all parts otihe Ottoman dominions; and that their shifts may come and harbour in ami of the ports or scales^ of the same.' Article 22. recapitulating the prece()ing permission to * navigate and abide, buy and seU all legal merchandise,* enumerates prohi kited commodities. A rticle 1 8. sufficiently secures to the English * all privile^&s granted to other nations:^ but to make the point more clear, it is corroborated by the prospective language of article 27. "which declares that the * privileges granted by divers imperial decrees, vhether before or after the date of these capitulations, shall always be • Amongst ivhom are named sir Thomas Roe^Knt, sir Sackvill Crovt Bart, and sir Thomas Bendish t Styled in the text sir Heneage Finch, Knt. earl of Winchelse, viscount McUdston, baron Fitzherbert of EastweUf lord of the royal manor of Wye, lietitenant of the comity of Kent and city of Canterbury. # See ^ppeiuBx. § Scale. Term employed in the Levant factories, from Scala in the lingua Franca dialect, or from the Turkish -word Iskcli, signifying UteH' Pdiy a ladder or stairs, and figuratively a tommercial qua^. ' APPENOiki NO. in. ^ «a<Sei«8tood and mtepppeted in fayoar of Uw ^g^b natioii.' Artj^ J^ ^isUnetly defines the general permission of ingress and egres* to enaoie we *.E«gU»fe »ercbaot8> m^sAltmder their bantwr, to Rpby the way o| tiiefW- nm'B* intoMo&C(yvia ; and also to aqd from Persia ; and to traffick, Jy «»■ •f bu fitfo* tbroygU all those confines.' Finally, as if it were decreed that o«t V^ shadow of doubt should remain respeeting the extent <rf oar nav^ati0O. Article 58, contains the following remarkable maritime provision, via. 'It English ships, bound to Constantinople shall be forced by stress rf w^^f <* mto CoffaA or to such like port, they are not to be compelled tobreakbutk arbitrarily,' &c, &c. The local description given by this and the pveoeduig^ article, can need no com meat. . , . v • " This is our ease, as far as it rests on historical testimony, which ineon- U-overtibly proyes that, in point of fact, the EngUsh have onee eni^ed a right, recognised hy an authentick instrument, ^terwards reduced by the vicissitudes of human affairs, to a dormant state ; but never extinguished : mere disuse, occasioned by the varying circumstances of saceeeffing tia»e«y. |s surely very different from renunciation or forfeiture. «* But, supposing that the implied right to equality of favour was not 9» explicitly admitted as it is by article 18 ; supposing further, that tl»e faei of the watex*s of the Krimeahad not been so specifically established as it i» iy article 38 ; nay, that England could pixxluce no title at all in support of this claim, there are other arguments to influence the deeision of the ques- tion in our favour, derived from the liberal system of the aublirae portfr itself, in its tbreign relations, from the fitness of things, and connected witht tlie interests, of 3iis empire. " In the daily transactions between the chancery of state and tlie differ- ent European legntions, how often do pretentions come under discusBiiHfr which are unsupported by conventions ad Iwc y The invariable practice i» to refer all such doubtful cases to the test of ancient usage, which i» almost always considered as equivalent ; and lapse of time, so tor renderiog^ precedent obsolete, generally stamps it with additional value in the eye» of the porte. In proof of whicti may be cited the conduct of the Rei9-" Effcndl, towanls the English embassy in 1795, when certain reforms were- projected in the customhouse tariff, by which the duties on foreign in€r« fhandise were collected, ad valorem, in order to bring the ehargeablo valuation nearer to the current prices of the day. The two imperial court* not acceding to the proposed cliange, on the ground of tlieir commercial , tariffs forming an integral part of the text of then* respective treaties of peace the sublime porte desisted from the measure with respect to them : and, although we could not make the same plea (inasmuch as our tariff stood upon the ground of a simple conti'act between the cnstomer of Constantinople and the English factory, with the exception of very few articles enumerated in the capitulations) yet, for the sole reason abovemen- tioned, Rashid Effendi, then in office, voluntarily and fbrmaUy cxemi>ted Mr. Liston from any farther discussion of the subject. A memorable instance of that exemplary good faith manifested by tJie Ottoman govern- ment in the observance of treaties, and particularly showing its equitabW construction of their meaning, relative to the English. «« Since the time w hen the Black Sea formed, as it were> a lake encir- cled by tlie Turkish territory, circumstances^ unnecessai^ to retraeehere^ have transferred a^ part of the Euxine coasXs to Russia ; and oottaterai * Tanaifs or Don, a river of Ruasia falling into the tea of Jlzaf «► Palus-Mseotis : accessible onljffrom ths Black Sea by the strait ofTmtauk 9f Yetii'Kskleh, formerlt/ the Cimmerian Bosphorus. . f Goffe K rfti Keflfefa, aUas Thfdwi^, a ^ri i» the Bla€k S9&, »tk^P^ 9.]b^em$t if the jSCriniem,f9rtaerltf the Tawrica Cherwtetu** 10 APPEXDiXf ««« Hi** causes faav« reaiered 4he hftute of AostrM a pttwifMoy iA 4it« tutfktyiU vilegc of Boecw ta the lilaek Sea, aitiioiigh auon posgeMing like tliefornitrr power, RfiT territorial property in its thoreak Homewer ftwtnnd it taa^tt ■ ht for any' power, yrluch was sole poasetsor of i^ key «if tbow mkrani waters, to conceive its duty, a^gaardtan of the eommeiHte a&d natipwtiiin of its subjects, beet fulfilled hy a rigid exeliuion of Ht^ngers; yet, tSe ieo- ooue broken, W the admission of a ain^ foreiffpa ftag, toe argumeftta far the original system of monopoly, not only eease to be teaable, bat aatmHf cJ»anga their bearing in favour of aaothex* oixkr 9S dliegs^ whereby the exoesn^e benefit of the ftrst grantee shaU be shared and subdivided witk one or more competitors, leaving the partieoiar Guides 0f Ihair riral|ty ont of the qnestioa. So far from the Turkish ooasting trade bdog later-* fered with hy the direct Toyaget of foreign Tesaeis, it Is rather to be expected iliat (he seamanship'^ of the Ottoman marineas would be improved by the example of a naval nation like tiie English, and the ship builderB her ndranocd in their art by the inspection of more perfcet models. The gor- orument can always keep the concourse of foreign shipping witliio doe hounds by navigation laws ; while the treasury cannot but feel the bene- iifsial effects of the transit by Coastautinople. The commodities furniahed by tlie trade with Enf^and, are of admitted utility to all claisses of this nation, and of prime necessity to some. By enabling the English navigator to penetrate the deep gol£i of the Black Sea, aod t^s /Tendexing th« re- motest districts aceessible to tlie English merchant, instead of the present languid routine of a single factory superintending two or three aunnal par* ^x>es, assorted according to the limited consumption o£ tlte metropolis, with the refuse of which the prorincial traders are scantily funiished at so- Qoud and third hand, w£ shall see witole fleets laden with the rioheaf productions of the ..old and new world. British capital and credit would :^tractfiourialung establishments in the solitarv harbours of Anatolia rfrom whence the adjac^t cities would rccieve less indirect supplies; and where tlie land-owner^ -would find a more i*eady exchange for their produce. Sinope and Trebizond would again emulate the prosperity and population of Aleppo and Smyrna. The Jtbazes^ Lazesy and other turbulent hordes^ whoinhal^t the mountainous fastnesses, bv mixing more frequently with theii* {ipUow -subjects at those marts, could not fail to learn their real interest to be inseparable from the performance of their duty. *< After this solution of the problem^ in one sense, there are still some other substantial reasons, to expect the Ottoman ministry will consent to an arrangement, tending to consolidate m^e and more, the connexion it has pleased tl\e Supreme Pi-ovidence to oi^ain between the two em purest but the most elevated gi-ound of hope is found in the roagnaAlmons sienti>> laents of his imperial majesty. That monarch will surely not suffer the .'tn»ent and unalterable friend, the zealous and devoted ally of his empire, to sustain a disadvantageous comparison with any other power, in point of Uic enjoyment of immunities within his dominions; or the contrary, tife lluglisli minister indulges himself in the Mattering persuasion, th»t even M as thip question one of an entirely new consession in favour of his .coun- trymen, provided their desires were not imreasonable in themselves, nor irucompatiblc wHh the essential interests of the Ottoman empire, it woaUt encounter no difficulty on the part of the Emperour; whereas, what ie solicited, is the revival of the dead lettei* of a venerable compact; the favourable interpretation, ot an ancient gran(, become equivocal by chance pf circunvstances ; the restoration of a privilege, become ^estionabls^ solely for want of exercise. It is suggested, to seize the present auspi- cious moTOfent, for assimilatiiig that banner which is the victorious aotago- ^M»t ^ the ^pf^mies of the Ottomiui pa^p^ (he violators uf its f)erritorir,lto the flags qS iu Aeighboors aad ft-lciids> not less the fiicads «f fiagiMriU AVf £WMXf MO. Uti if CMk Hmmitif ^ IntUriite, take 4uiiiwii|c «t tiny tmn^^thtnl UkA voaM «pen hA-aoirthem fiOttB to tlioK wlio «re tbe hiirUltigeM df ttboiidlmee and v«aUib, to tlie ifortbwn pr<mv«es of thut £i«pire > ** Nor ara cdrtdn moral effects inseparable TtwA wwii a tM^iad as 1}ie ' arrarttgieiaent in -qiiestinn, to be overiooiked by gevemmcnts, in tbe eultiva- ttoii of political relatiotts ; for althougb diplomatlck contracts may organize the body, yet national feeling must animate the soul of alliance. It is impossible, but that such an unequivocal proof of the interest taken by the emperour, in the welfare of -the kMig^ivubjeetSy-must make the most nrely and lasting impressiwi on lys majesty's mind ; aid must an^gme nt, if possi- ble, the jttst eonfidewefe he alreirrty entertains in the person and^eovernment of his august ally. The people of England^ distinguished as tbey are bf aotlre industry and speenfative habits, will fully appreciate a eoneession at once so Mduable and so seasonable. Publick opinion win derive therefrom that additional intensity and perraaucnt direction, in favour of the jeon- ncxion between the two countries, no less desirable to ensure itsdarability» than requisite mutually to realize all its iraraediate benefits. To appropriate , the enterprising enei*gies of a warlike people, is no un&ir equivalent for mercantile encouragement: the cordial voice of an independent nation isiio. Unworthy rettirn for an act of gi*ace. British gratitude uill pay tbis tributfe ^ Hultan SeHm. « '< Hei<e closes the case which the English ooAAisler, -In t)bedience to Bis instrocUous, has the honour to submit to the consideratioD of tfaeiUusCriom ministry. In the first place, he has endeavoured to bring the existenee <if the privif<>g<e within the scope of historical evidesoe, as a claim of nfieKtin« jHoished right. Secondly, he has disenssed the question upon the ground of political expediency. And lastly, solicits the imperial assent as anatioaal boon. Tbe rcKance that he j^laces in the justice and wisdom of the sab* Kme porte ; and, above all, in the generosity of the emperour, hardly f>ermits him to harbour a doubt adverse to the issue sf a oegottattoii, wbicb, if committed to feeble hands, is founded on such a solid basis. * << It BOW becomes the duty of the undersigned to state, in thpe name vi bis court, the distinct object of this memorial, namely: the proraotgation Aiost puissant emperour of the Ottomans, and of queen Elizabeth of glori- ous memory, or of her immediate royal successours. it is more partiou* Hsrly wished to move the subKme poke to decree tlie same, according tO the tenour of its treaty witli Russia, dated at Constantinopic, tOthof June, iTSa, of the Christian era, confirmed by the treaty of peace conelud«d st Yassy* on the ninth of Januar}' 1792, from aiticle 17, to article 35 incla* sive ; Subject, nevertheless, to mch provisions as existing cireuro8taiic«t mar render expeilient. To which end the proper officers on both sides ihall be instructed to take arrangements in concert, consulting the regu*- tations for the passage of the sound into the Baltick sea, or such c^her acts de transitu as obtain authority in the publick or marine law of Europe. •' In(£viduallj, thei'e remains one other duty for the undeFsigned* tft fulfil; and tliat is, to offer lus most resjieaful thanks to tlie iHuartrions Otto- man tninistiy, for the courteous attention always paid to his rcpresentation8> in trmisaeting the business of tbe station he has tbe honour to hoM, and especially oa tlte present a^idr ; as well as for the ready aceess allowed him-on all occasions. Also to renew the asaaranoes of that conseientiaii» *. Tcunf^ or lani, the tapkal of J^ioldavia, a frontier prwinot of Titfhe^, the gofternour qv raLvoda of-wMch it ahoa^ 9ek^te4fr$m Wfe lid AFFSHDIX^ yO» . UU discha|;;ge of dutj towtrds tbe court ^bere be k seat to reside, of wMeh be trusts the labours of his ministrf, fn critical times, have ftirtmlied tXM» frequent and ample testimony for those assurances not to be accepted as gineere bj the Sublime Porte. (Signed) I. S. SMITH.-* M^Ugradt near CcfMtemiinople^ Xst. September, 1799. APPENDIX TO MEMORIAL. Extract from the treaty, entitled the capitulations or ariiclea eftkepe€ux JirUele t.- ** First, That the said nation and the EngUih merchanti^ and ainr other Bfrtion or merchants vhich are or shall come under the Eoglisn banner and protection, v/\ih their sliips, small and great, merchan- dise, fiicuHies, and all other their goods, may always pass safe in our seas, and freely and in all security may come and go into any pari of the impe- rial limits of our dominions in such sort, that neither any of the natioti, tbeir goods and faeultiesj slull receive an> hindrance or molestation froui any person whatsoever. • Art 4. ** All English ships or vessels, small or great, shaU and may at any time safely and securely come and harbour in any of the scales and ports of our ddmlidons, and likewise may from thence depail at their pleasure, widiout detention or hindrance of any man. Art. 7. •* The English merchants, interpreters, brokers, and all otber iubiects of that nation, whether by sea or land, may freely and" safely come andf go in all the ports of our dominions ; or returning into their own country, all our beg^erbegs, ministers, governburs, and other officers^ captains by sea of ships, and others whomsoever our slaves and subjects, we command that none of them do or shidl lay hands tipon their persouii, «r faeuHiesi or upon any pretence shall do them any hindrance or injury^ Art.' It. *•. All those paVtieular privileges and capitulations, which in for- mer times-have been granted to the French, \ eoetians, or any other Christian nation, whose king is in peace and fiienddiip with the portc, Sx» like manner, the same were granted, and given to the said l^nglish nation; to the end, that in time to come, the tenour of thisour imperial capitulation aaay be always obsen-ed by all men, and that none may, in any manner,, l^n siny pretence, presume to contradict, or violate it. Ari. SS. *• The English nation, and all those that come under thehc banner, their vessels, small or great, shall, and may navigate, Iraffick, buy,. without the impiBaehment <»■ trouble of any man ; and their sliips and vessels may ooraefiafel;y and securely to anchor at all times, and traffick at all times in any part of our dominions, and with their money buy victuals,, •od fldl other things, without any contradiction or hindrance of any man» Art. 27. ** AU ttese privileges, and other IDjerties granted to the English nation, and those who come under tiieir protection, by divert imperial commands, whether befot<e ot after the date of these imperial capitulations, shall be always obeyed and observed, and shall always be imdcrstood and interpreted in favoia* of the English nation, according to the tenour and true contents thereof. Art. 36. " The English merchants, and all under their banner, shaft •ad may safely, throughout our domuuons, trade, buy, 8eS (except only. APVENDIX) NO III. *• iJbmroCHBtic* prohaited) all sorts of mercliandise ; likewise either by lan4 Or sea, they may^j;o and traffick, or by the way of the mer TanaXs,\i\ Moscftvia, or by Russia, and from thence may bring thdr merchandise into onr empire ; also, to and from Persia they may go and trade, atfd thrOQgh all that part newly by us conquei%d, and through those confines, without the impediment or molestation of any of our mtntsters;^ and ^ey diaU pay the custom or other duties of that coutvtry, and jiothinp: more. Art. S8, ** The KngUsh ships which shall come to this our city of Constait' tmople, if by fortune of seas, or ill weather, ihey shall be forced to Coffa^ or to such like port, aslong^as^iib English %ill tiot imlade or sell their own merchandise and eoods, no man shall enforce nor give them any trouble or annoyance; but in all places of dan|^er the Caddys, or other of our min- isters, shall always protect and defend the said English ships, men, and goods ; (hat no damage may come unto them : ami with their money may buy victuals, and other necessaries : and desiring also with their money to hire carts or yessels, which before *W^erc- not hired by any othe^ to trans- port their goods from place to place ; no man shall do them any hindrance or trouble whatsoever." TRANSLATION Of the original Grant of the Freedom of the Black Sea,as delivered to . J- S- SiMiTH, Esa. ard Recorded intM PuhUek Regitter ^the Chau' ceru of the British Factory (it Constantinople. ** The friendship and gpcid intelHgcu^e which tob^it since the most remote times j between the Sublime Porte, of .solid glpry, and the ooui't of EUi^and, being now crowned by an alliance founded on principles of the most inviolable siocerily and conliality ; and these new banda thus strength- ened between the two courts having hithertos prod uccil a scries of recipro- cal advantages, it is not presumptuous to.suppoae, that their salutary f^'uits will bu reaped still more abundantly in .time to come. Now after mature rejection on the representations tluit the Eni^sli minister Pleoipqtentiary residing at the Sublime Porte, our fevy esteemed friend, has made rela- tive to^the privilege of navigation in the Black Sea, for the merchant ves- sels of his nation ; repr^*:> intations that he has reiterated, hoth in 'Writkig and verbally, in conformity to his instructions, and with a juat oonfidenae in the Kvely attachment of the Porte towards his court: therefore, tog^ve a new proof of these sentiments, as well as of the hopes entertained by the Sublime Porte, of seeing lieuceforward a multiplicity of new fruits spring from the connexion that has been renewed between ithe two courts, the assent granted to the befoi'e-named minister's soKoitations ia herebjr sanctioned as a sovereign concession and gratuitous act on the pa»^t of his imperial majesty ; and to take full and eutii-e effect asaxMHi as tarther amicable conferences shall have taken place with the minister our friend^ for the purpose of determining the burthen of the English vesaeU, the mode of transit by the canal of Constantinople, and such other regulations and conventions as appertain to the object j and which shall be as es4»«tly maintained and observed with regard to the English navigation^ a^towarda an^ other the most favoured nation. And in order that the minister, our friend, do inform his court of this valuable grant, the present prescript has been drawn up, and is delivered to him. Constantinople, 1 Jamazi-ul-Ewell, A. H, H14' dOth Octobefy A. n. 17^9, TRANSLATION. Official J\/ote delivered hy the Heis EpFSirni f'AixxA.wtK Sthattoit^ Eaa. at a Cm/erenee in his Excellency's house on the canaL the 29M - of Juli/, 1802. . . ^ ^ . . - ^< ** It behoves the character of true friendship, all sincere regaitl to pro- mote with dieerfulness, all sacli afiairs and objecU as may be recijprocaVy utefiil^ and m«f, hMXff a tvA. apung th« «»Iiitar3r fiwuHs-of Uioa* itM^ bon^ft of affiance and perfect good harwoayi^ which bapfilysulisijsU between, the Su)>Uipe Porte and the court of Gi^at BrUaio ; aid aa pearaiaaioQ ba» lieretofore beep gnmt<xi for the English merchant ships to nangate i» the Black Sea fop the purposea of trade» tjbe same having b«ea a v<jnntaiy trait of hia imperial migesty's own gnuoions heart, as mwe amply agpeara hy an ofifiowl note presented tq onr fri^od, the l^gUsh minister^ rending at the Suhlime Porte, dated at Jewwai-w/^Jt/br, 1214,* tbiapvesent Tc^- rart it iiaued » the.inftperial oourt hereby ei»aging that the same treatment «h»U be ohsened towards the IfingUsh meiAant ship* aoming to that aea» as is oSered to ships of powers aoot ftmoured \fy the SnSUme Poste, q» the score of that na\igatMin.'' NO. TV, EXTRACT FKOM Tvm lae-BocMs; of the moderatq, A T£lfSTIAN BHIGANTINE, CCWXAmSO »T ' IL CAWTANO MOWOR BERGAMINI/ Literally translakdfrom ths original MtaHan^ Giving an Aaeooat of' brer Vfy^ge 'm the Black Sea, from the time she qoitled the jtort of Odessa, until she arrihred in the Canal ofConstantinopIe, K. B. The ekfSff, in thik Jmrndl^ after the tibtervatum of latitude^ 5e, gin at J^dUny. Stfore the said Observation, they are dateif at Suntet the preceding evening t tmd the same while inporf at anchor* FBIDATf OCTOBSI^ 31, ISQO. \^ XEAR ^hy-r-wmd ir. v. w. Daring the night, it had blowA from the nortb. At daybreak, the captain went on shore to give informatioD te tlie aostomhouse officer to come on board, and make tnQ nsual visit prefioas (o the ships departure. Wind fresh from tlie north-r-«hy clear. Ateigfat 9*clockthc said officer came on board. After his search Vaa ended, lii»v. cd anclior, and put to sea^ accompanied by the Pi^lo. Arone^to^ eaptain G. Bcrgamini, the captain's nephew. — Kept along the aoast. At tea oMock, A. V. passed the Cnpe of Odessa. Continued steering s. a. vr. along the coast, till two o'clock p. k. in nin% fftthonls water, Atthat hour fiiand tenfatbbms water^-^ohtifraed 's. a., wr, t.n five o'ok)ck) r* nt. Made the point of Akerman, trhielr bore x. w. cl' «B at the distance of ten minutes, or geographical milea. Continued tha same course. In ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms water, with a gratel ho{- ton). tAtvmBAx, jroTiMBsa 1. ' X^tlle wind from sunset, till six a. x.— Sleering s. B^'W*iH which hotfr AMPKirmiXf K^. tr. It iMr^ off" the file «f dTevlieiMs.* Then steered s. tr. md' tff «. ^ih wind ».BF. w. At etglttoTeloefctbe said Ide bore ^.aDdW«. dUfilnt aboat «ri; nakmlet, or geogrsplulsal nnles. Ftom that time, m toMky^ aCeered a. aad by V. Mid ratdte 14* eonrse. Latitiide tibserved at niddaf , 44^ 44^. BViniAT, KomrBXA 3. Clear weather— little innU from nidda^r tHl bx o'eloek r. x. flteeria^ V. ir. w. Afterwards a oalm. Remainder of the night, partfy ealm, and partly Ught. variaUe brazes. Our ooiinte w. •. w. and b. w.. At ninrtt« discoWi*ed the coast of St. George, and land beyond. TiU imddagr, elnef* if calm. The current bore the ressel towards the doiith. Ire the whole of this day, made about S3' coarse westward and Ift' towarda^e oast. Catiu wind and sea. Latitude observed, 44S 25 '. ■ . xoKSAT, voyniBBR 8. Wind and sea calm. Clear wiea^VBr. Steered the whole day with reiy little wind from the east, and littie «eaf the atiwsphere sometimes over- cast. At midday calculated the W>uree made, ind found it 9' w. and 53^ r« Latitude observed, 43«> 30'. Discovered the coast from the luasthead, ia^islinatl^a in.tiiirty fat^omt vater ; grayel bottom, with broken shells. TUESSATy KOV¥K»lA 4. AtmoBpiieye ImM •, little wi»d« mA t.Mod deal 6t |«a.' Awft taiddiy, till five o^ctock, r. iai. steered b. s. w. with an east wind. At that houi' made Cap^ fiafegliri^ bearing ft w, titid'by w.aVotit SO' dl^ant^' Fram this time axid pl«oe> till midilay, w« nude aboMt 90' eourae^ tiitSk m east ^ wiBd» a heavj^ sea} and elondy weather* wsDimsAY^ yovamm 8, *■ AtmoSpiicre turbid ; Ught t^in(ly and a heavy sea. Discovered that ther ship made a nttle water ; about an inch every four hours ; owing to the heavy sea. From midday tin five o'clock, p. k. steered with little wind from the east. Afterwards a cabh, till two o'clock, a. m. when there . Sprung up a wind from the ir. w. Continued our course to the south tifl SIX, A. M. At SIX, a calm. Discovered the coast, and at daybreak obser- ▼ed the land off the mouth of the canal of Constantinople, distant 20\ Till midday, calm, with a heavy sea from the east, which worked the ship Tery muoh. Froncsunset. of the preceding etening, till ncwn this d^y, had RMide 4S' south. At midday, stood opposite the lighthouse of the eanal, which, bore only ten miles diHam to the West oS us. Caboy with a lieaYj sea. Hazy weA&her* The wixid .eakut,> and a heavy mtf fvont tlie esM, Ctm- ' filmed, to .«(ork the Bvn(4M^ the idiip makmg an losk of wMer ei^iy ^f ♦ tale of Serj)ent9 — called FidorUsi by the modem ; Qrephs. Wa. dU^ wvered it afi three o'cloeh in the morning, Jin acctmnt ttf its antiguitiee -. mui be found in the vniUm^* of ancient authore oUuded to in the tootk. It ftppettreda bieak nunmdy rism^ out of the eea, covered oniv twYA Jot* ^r«si««: J^ktmttmearePimpemvnnrighrkcw inrif « remqrkahlefaei {hat th» dotpk^ round thh iile^ of^d rieaf (h^ iimtfhit iir APPENDIX, NO. tV. liourf. From midda)r, till fire o'oloekj light vsriable breezes. Keepiog^ the prow to the teat viz. to the south, at that hour the wind veered fi-oni the south to the s. s. e. which caused us to keep the prow to the east ; little wind. Continued thus till six o'clock, a. m. when the wind veered to the 8. 8. w. and we turned the prow to the west. At sunrise the wiad strengthened very much. Reefed the sails ; the sea having calmed from the east, and swelled from the •. w. At this hour discovered the mouth of the canal of Constantinople, as well as the lighttower on the Asiatick aide. At ten o'clock the wind still increasing, and a heavy sea, we were fbreedto take in all the reefs in the main topsail. At twelve, midday, the wind and sea rose to such a pitch, tliat we were forced to let down the topsail, remaining only with the foresail, the mainsail, the main staysail, and jib. The sea rolled over the ship from one side of the deck to the other; and we perceived, at the same time, that the water in the hold had risen even to the aentima. Immediately we pumped thp ship. At midday, made the mouth of the canal, bearing s. by w. distant about 20'. Heavy sea, and tempestuous wind. VaiDAT, irOYSMBER 7. Atmosphere exceedingly turbid. Wind tempestuous, and heavy sea* Obliged to work the pumps every hour ; the ship making two inches of water. From midday to four o'clock, p. ac. steering with a tempestuous wind from the s. s. w. At that hour, the mouth of the canal bore a. s. vr. distant about 25'. On a sudden, experienced a stroke of wind from the K. w. so unexpected and tremendous, that we had scarce time to lower the sails, and were compelled to take it in poop;* encountering, for an hour a hurricane of wind and sea from the ir. w. which at the same time met the heavy sea from the s w. in such a manner, that, at every pitch the ship made, her bowsprit was carried under iwater ; our vessel, at the same time labouring so mueb, that the sea washed entirely over her, and we were obliged to nail up the poitholes aad other apertures. At five G^okwk, p. VL the great fury of the hurricane abated. Put the ship a la Capa,^ with the prow to the 8..W. eaiTyiugcmiy the jib aad mainsful, witb three reefs with a view to get clear of the land ; at the same time the wind amd sea still contimied with such fury, that the sea rolled over the deck« from one side to the other. At six, p. m. the wind veered to the s. w. again j-^ so that, what with the sea from the ir. w. and from the s. w. the ship la> boured beyond all measure, and we were compelled to keep the pumps l^ing every hour. At eight p. m. hauled in the jib with the view, tf pos- sible, to keep the prow more to the sea ; the great fury of the wind and sea continuing without abatement, and the sea continually passing over us, • Tfie commofi and only resource of Turkish vessels in a stormy but never used by European ships, unless in cases of imminent and absolute danger^ Had the storm continued another half hour, ttfi^tht same ri'o- hpnce. we must have been inevitably lost ; as toe had a lee shore Under the shifts prow, even suppoung her to sustain the violence of the sea; ^ A la Capa-ispladng the sUp diagonaUu, or cross-wa^s, ttnth the rudder to, leeward, in such a manner that her head is kept to the sea, hut fhe ship is stationary in the -water. * JPerhaps a greater commotion cannot be raised in the sea than tbhtu vxas here witnessed, l%e wind hofving raged with violence for a length of time from the A'. W. had raised a prodigious aea^ It was met by ahuT" nctuie from an opposite quarter, the two seas encovtUerinsr each other f ^ in the coiff-se of two hours it veered to the wmepwt again, when «<? 9ea became horrible beyond description^, APPENDIX, .NO. IT. "<7 ff©m one side to the other, so that the deck was continually full of water. Matters continued in this manner till raiddajr,\vhen the fuiy of the wind some- what abated. Unreefed and let go the mainsail, the same tremendous sea still continuing and the deck being allways full of water. From four o'clock to midday, we hail made about 20' course towards the east, deducting th« vessel's swerving. At midday, made land to the south of the mouth of the canal, hearing to the s. w. and distant about 30'. The last land visible oh the coast of Auatolia^ bearing £. by s. SATUB.DAT, KOTKHUBR 8. Atmosphere exceeding turbid. Wind tempestuous, and a very turbid sea. Kept the pumps working, the ship still making two inches of water every hour. From inidtlay, tiil three o'clock after midnight, continued steering with the prow to the nortli, and our course corrected, jf. x by r.. havingcontinualiy a stormy wind from the w. w. w. and a prodigious heavy ■ea At the said hour the wind veered to the north. ' Turned the ship's side, keeping th« prow to the west. Continued thus till ten o'clock, a. »r. when we discovered the coast of Anatolia, near the mouth of the canal. Then steered to the w. 8. w. towards the said land ; having at that time, taken up all tlte rt»efs, and let go all the greater sails. Continued thus tilf midday, when there fell a calm; a pi-odigioqs heavy sea remaining from^ the s. w which made the ship labour in such a inanner, that the deck was continually covered with water ; causing also great damage to the works and sails. Juowcred and furled all the sails, leaving every tiling to the mercy of the sea. SUJTBAT, NOVBMBEa 9, Atmosphere turbid ; wind calm, and a heavy sea. Kept the pumps con^ iiBiially going. From midday, to six o'clock r m. remained beealraed^. with a most prodigious heavy sea- from the w. w. which caused the ship to khour exceedingly, and did great damage to the works and rigging; the ^eek being, at the same time, idways full of water, which, wiih the ship'sr rolUng, washed iirom one side to the other. At this^ hour spnmg up a light wind from the south. Put the prow to the «. a. w. with all the greater sails to the wbd ; and the i^p, in consequence, laboured less than be> fore. At ten o'clock, p. m. the wind veered to the s. s. w. which oblig«.d us to put the prow to the west, having, at the same time, much calmed the aea At eight o'clock^ a. m the mouth of the canal bore to the s. a. w. of us, distant about 30'. From the time of this observation till mi<lday, made 12' course to tlie w. w. w. the wind a. w. by s. The sea calmed Ctoixl tbcs M, w, and some what swelled from s. w. MOXDAT, NOTEMBXR 10.. Atmosphere exceedingly turbid.. Light wind, anda heavy sea fhacn tKe* s. w. Continued to work the pumps as before. From midday to mid-- night continued to steer^ with a stormy wind from tlie s. 8, w. Course corrected, w. and by w. 36'. From midnightto seven o'clock, a. H. with •wind from s. w. Coarse corrected, v. and by s, 2S'. At tliat hour dis- severed the coast on the European side ; viz. the land towards fneada, and the coast to the iv. w. Also the mountain Gabbiam,. bearing to-the ir. w.. of Ineada. Towards midday, steering with Httle wind from a. w^. Course^., s. to X. w, by w 10'. The sea much becalmed, piacovered that the ship preponderated on her starboard side. Opened the portholes, anA {'rhombagij on the larboard side, and moved part of her cai^ ; endea-. Touring, as muc^ as possible, to set her right ; bat she stiU prepondecatait sQxneWEat towards her starboard side. E. TUSSDAX, VOYEiLBSB 11/ Atmosphere somewhat overcast' Light ivind, and little sea. Conti- nued to pump as before: From midday to nine o'clock, p. m. steered with the prow to the ir. W. with wind iVom w. s. w. The wind after- irards Teering to the w. by n. and turned her side with the prow to the 8. 8. w. Light favourable wind. Continued steering thus txll ten o'clock, A. X. when the wind veered to the «. s. w. and befaig to the wradward of the port of Ineada. turned the ship's bow with the prow to the west. to<- wards the said port; beins detwmined to anchor there, and endeavour to set the ship right on her Keel. At four o'clock east anchor in the middle of the port of Ineada, in six fathoms water, with a small, gravelly bottom, mixed with black sand. The same wind eontintted till towatdt aunaet, M-hen there came a calm. WED^ESOAT, irOVBMBEB 12. Atmosphere somewhat overcast, anda ealrawind. Continued to pump aa before. Lay at |bnfihor« Liglit breeocs of wind. In this day, opened the frbombagij and portholes, to right the ship as much as possible « moved part of her cargo ; repaired and altered pait of the D^iig» and sent the crew ashore £oir water. ^ THURSDAY, NOYBKBSB IS. Atmosphere somewhat overcast, and calm wind. Continued to pump us before. ■ Lay at anchor. The whole night passed with Kght breezes of wind and eah^ ; also all the rest of the day till sunset. This day employed in repairing various damages sustained in the rigging, &c. VBIPAT, KOTEXBIR l4. Atmosphere overefitt. Calm mind. Continued to pump as befiore. Lay at anchor. From sunset to midnight, calm wind, and atmo6|>here somewhat overcast. Afterwards iti)eeame cloudy im aH sidos, ^nd there sprung up a slight wind from the west, which eontmued tiN tew o'eioek, A, M. when the wind veered to the east, and the atmosphere became very turbid on all sides, especially fnom tiie noilli to the east; at the same time a heavy sea rolling into the port from the east. A dight wind contiutied %tll sunset, a turbid sky, .'md a heavy sea. About twenty Turkish boats en« tered the port this day, from varioua places, bound for Constantinople, ftnd waiting for favourable weather. SATURBAT, STOTBMBBR 13. Atmosphere exceedingly turbid. Little wind and a heavy sea. Re- m»ined at anchor ; continued to work the pumps, although the water di« vttinished, ftud we oal^ punned two inches in twenty ibtir hours. Frona son- set till eighty a, x. a aliglit wind from the ea^t. At tbsit time the wind veered to the 8. w* having sweUed the seay wikieh, catering the portfroA t^ east, made the ship labour veiy saiidi , ao that we wene ebli|[ed to aAehor dM ]poop) with a small cable to keep the ship with the prftwto the sea, wkidi eased her very much. AU the rest of the night, and the fWtowmg ^j titt sonset, the same wi«d eoatittued^ with an atmosphere Extremely tdrhM qb ttt sides. ' SUXTBAT, SVOTXXBBR 16. Atmosphere exceedingly turbid ; nioderate wind^ and a heavy aea. ile» gained at anctiov ; continued to piunp as before. The wHole day a ». w. AffmnmiXf no. ivt i9 windv Atmosphere «xeee(1iQ|sl^ tarkiA, and tfae mnd sometimet ttormy ; All oF which continued so till sunset. After midday, captain Morini, from Odessa, arriFcd in the port, bound to Constantinople, having had sis day's passage. Also two Turkkb boati from the same place. NOirnAT, irOTSXBEB 17. Atmoi^here exceedingly torhid ; stormy wind, and a hesvj sea. Con- tinned to pump as before. Remained at anchor the whole night and day. Till santet, a stormy wind fM>m the s. w. and a otoQdy atmosphere, every where exceedingly orereast. At sunset the wind somewhat ealro«r. Du- ring the night, arrived in the port captain Bilaffer, from Odessa, laden with corn, bound to Constantinople f having had six day's voyage. TUSSDAT, KOTEKBEB 18. Atmosphere exceedingly turbid. Little wind, and heavy sea from the east. Continued to pump aa before. Remained at anchor in the port; All night and day, till sunset, paned with a slight wind Irom the s. s. x. and s. and a light sea from the east. Atmosphere continued turbid. This (faiy, nosed the smaH anchor. WEDirSSnAT, irOYXUBEB 19. Atmosphere turbid ; light wind, and a little sea from the east. C<rq- ttnued to pump aft before. Remained at anchor. The whole flight, light breezes of wind from the east, tfnd a dark fogr The renMiinder of the day with light breezes of wind, scattered and doudy, withraisft, which eon- tinued till sunset. THURSDAT, KOTEXIEB 20. Atmosphere exceedingly tuHbid ; wind calm, with rain, and a little sea from theeast. Continued to pump as before. Remained at anchor. The 'wholefiight,tilldaybreak, Vitha windirom s. s. x. ^ith the said rain ; and the whole day, till sunset, wkl^ unsettled, variable winds from all points, and heavy rain, with intervals of calm wind and rain. FBi:OAT, KoyXMBXIl 21. Atmosphere exeeedine^y turbid ; calm wind and little sea from the s. £. Continued to work the pumps. Remained at anchor. From sunset till six o'clock, the wind calm. At that hour there sprung up a li^t breeze from the south, and the atmosphere cleared ; only remaining thick towards the east, which was covered with a dark fog. Continued thus tiU t^n p. M. when the wind veered to w. s. w. and the atmosphere became qmte clear. Immediately raised anchor, the same wind coutintting. Set aail, spreading all the great sails to the wind. When 4.he anchor caa»e tm. board, found it had lost one of its claws. AH thn vessels and boats in the port also set sail, steering to the s. e. with the said wind. Continued thus until three o'clock after midnight, at whieh hour we had made 80' etmnlt to the 8. s. Then succeeded a cakn, and this ^ovtiaued nntil half aft^ thr^e* vben the atmnsphere beeame turbid on all sides. At four o'etoek ^ stormy y^insl rose from the north, accompanied with* rain. Made our OQUji^e f> the S. by s. tiU eight o'clock when we discovered the coast near tbe mouth of the canal, and steered to the s. s. At that time there came on heavy rain, which continued till midday, with thick fog, and it was very darjt ; insomuch that we could no longer see land. At noon, the rain B^ng somewhat diminished but the stormy wind« and a prodigious ^sea eontiauiiig, we discovered the U^l^tower off tbe mouth ci: tike canaly em i -30 A*PEi«DIXj JiOf. v. the European side, at no great distance. Immediately let go all the fljing sails, steering to the south, directly towards the mouth of the canal, the "wind having somewhat calmed ; although the rain fell in torrents, and such darkness previuled, thit we could, with difficulty, discern the land. At three o'clock, p. w. arrived, opposite to Biitfiikder^f in the canal ; and at five o'clock, p. m. cast anchor at Jeniknt^y letting go the great an- chor with the new cable, there not being time to lash the middle cable above the small anchor, the middle cable having broken in the harbour of Ineada. Fastened also two cables to land, our anchorage being very neai* the shore, in six fathoms water. NO. V. A LIST OF THE PLANTS, Collected by the author during Ma di£ei^erU Journeys in the Crimetr, principaUyin company -with his friend Professor Pallets, Mphakctic- ally arranged* > ACHILLEA toraentosa Aegilopft sqnarrosa. Agrimonia eupatoria Ajuga Alpina - - - - Alcea ficifolia - - - - .Allium deacendens - - Allium subhirsutum - - Alyssum incanura - Amaryllis belladonna - Anabasis aphylla. Anagallis arvensis j^ore phcemdo. ■ Cottony Milfoil. - Common Agrimony. ■ Mountain-Bugle. Fig^leaved Marshmallow. Deep-rooted Garlick. Dwarf Garlick. Hoary Alysson Belladonna Lilly - - Purple-flowered Pim- pernel - - - - From Gardens^ Anchussa angutifolia - - Anchttsa tinctoria Andropogon ischsemum - Androsace septentridnalis. Antirrhinum Hniaria Apium gi*aveolens Apocynura vcnetum Arebis alpina A rabis ^r nd iflora Arenaria marina - Aristolochia clematitis - Artemsiia campestris - Narow-leAved Hugfoss. Dyers' Bugloss. Beard-gra9s, Yellow Toad-Flax. Wild Celery. VtMiitian Dog-bane. Alpine Rock-cress. Great flowered Rock-cress Sea Sandwort CRmbing Bi ribwort Field Wormwood - In the groves of tite Sinabda mountains, south of the Crimea^ Ascelepias vineetoxieum •Asphoaelus lat^oft Common Swallow-iX'«rt TeBow Asphodel Large downy exereS' ceiices gro-zo upon this plant from the perfo- rations of insecis, which are made n*e of hv the Tartars to U^Ae their pipes. Asphodelas tftuiiettt.* Aster ameUas - - - Aster tripoUom Astragalus Austriacas Astrigalus dealbatast Astragalus hypogl&ttia Astragalus ooobrjchi- oides$ Astragalus pilosus - Astragalus utrigerif - Astragalus virgatus - Borago Orientalis - Bromus 8quan*06U8 - AF«K0IK, KO. r. Italian Starwort-t Sea Starwort. Austrian Milk-vetch. Whitish Milk-veteh. Purple Mountain Milk- Tetch. Sainfoin4ike Milk- vetcK Hairy Milk-vetch. Twiggy Milk-retch. Oriental Borage. Com Brome-grass Buplearum tenuissi- mum - - — Slender Hare's ear. Butomus unihellatus - Flowering-rush. Calendula arvenus - Field Marygold - j^ the south of the Cri* mea. Campanula h^brida Campanuhi hlifolia - Campanula stricta Carduus pulcher [^nova apecies.'] - Carpinus Orientalistf Carthamus lauatus. Centaurea buxbaumi^ anatt Centaurea frigida - Centaurea lineata - Centaurea radiato - Mule Bell-flower. Lily-leared bell-flower. Erect Bell-flower. - Fair Thistle. Oriental Hornbeam. Northern Knapweed. Streaked Knapweed. Rayed Knapweed - - HtlU about Pera, In bioom Dec. 30, ISOa Centaurea Romana - Roman Knapweed < Centeaurea Sibirica - Centaurea solstitialis - Centaurea Tartarica - Cerastium alpinum - Cerastium tomentosum Ceratocarpus arenarios Cerinthe minor - - Cherianthus odoratissi- miis ... Chrysoeoma gramiDi- • Pallas, ♦ PoUas. *• PaUas. Siberian Knapweed. Saint Barnaby's Thistle. Tartarian Knapweed. Mountain Mouse-ear. Wooly Mouse-ear. Sand Honeywort - - Small Honeywort. Taurian Gilly-flower. Steppes. On the steppes near Kwdof, Called by the Tartars Kurai. The sheep fled on it in "Winter^ and it is sup' posed to give them that gray wool so much vahted by the Tartars, Sea coast on the fMun- tains in the south. Perecop* t See TirgiVs Georgicks, IV, «ri-.-276. 5 JSiberstein. If Pallas. tt mUdenov. tt Pallas. V folia - - Chrysocoxna TOIjsia • Cichoriam itftjliu* • Cisttts ftunana Cistos heliairthemum Cistus angustifoUos Clematis 'vitallM - - CliDopodium Tnlgare « Colchioam vemom* - CoqtoItoIus arveotts - ConTolmlot eantabfrka Convolvulua cneonim CoaTolvuIua llaeatus - CooTolyultts terrestns Corispermam squar- roiumf - - ' Conmt maseula Coronala eoranata. CroeuB sativas CjnogloMum offieinale CjpQras pannonicof. Dancus earota Delphiniuxik ajacis AUBSKDISy NO* V. Grass-leaTed G^Mylocks. IJbwBTGoldjrIockJB. Wild £a(KTe) or Sueeo- Prostrate Hock-rose. Dwarf Cistus. Narrow learedc' Roek" rose. Travellers Joy» Wild BasU. Spring Meadow-saiTron* Common Bindweed. Silkj Bindweed. Silvery Bindweed. Streaked Bindweed. Creeping Bindweed. Sealy Tiekseed. Male Cornel-cherry. Autnmnal Meadow-saf- fron - - - . Common HoandV tongue. Wild Carrot Rocket - Steppe9f near Ashmet* chit, Ocu io» laoo. Belphinium oo&fiolida - I>ianthns arenarius$ - D. Orientalis. Dianthns phiroarius • Pianthus salinus,^ IKanthns saxatilis.** - Dorycnium herhaceumff Dorysnium monspeU- BranchinK Hoeket Oriental Pink. Ourtis's Botanical Magazine.]] Feathered Pink. On this flower apptoir the letters AtALk % On the mmtngaitt TVcfte- tirda^h. Dracocephalnm altai- cum . « - Braoocephahim gnn- difloru^ ... Dracocephalam tauri* cum^^t Echinops ritro - Bchium orientale Echium mbrum - • Altai Dragdn's^ead. Great FIotrei«d> Bra^* on's-head. Small Globe-Thistle. Oriental Viper's Bugloas. Red-flowered Viper's ISpilobium hirsutum Epilobium roaeum • JPallae. BuglosB Hairy Willow-herb. Smooth Willow-herb. i Ibid. Oum U made from tkt roots. i JXc, gmhue in terris nucripti nomine Regum JSTascantur Jhret ,' et PhUada solus habcte, $ PdUas. "•"t WildeTtovf: If Pallas. i"* Pallar. ViHcm. &PP&NBIX9 iff«. y» Erigeron ▼illarsu.* f^rysimum barbarea - Buonymus vermeosos Euonjmitt lati^olius - ^tuphorfaia hyberna Suphrasia lutea • Eapbrasia odo&titei Frankeiua hirsuta Fuens asplenoides GfOantbiis nivalit Gftlega officinalit Gatium giauonmf Craficun rubioides • < Ci^alnim sylvatioiim < 0«iifiana septemfida • ^ Geranium rotundifO' Uum - - . Geranium sanguiueum Bloody Crane's Bill. Geranium sylvaticum Wood Crane's BiU. Glecbomahederaoea - Ground Ivy. GlycyrrWza glabra - Common liquorice. Gypsopbila gfomerata-t Hedysamm argenteum^ Hedysarum eretaeeumf Hedysarum tauricum** Heliantbustaberosus * Jerusalem Artichoke Keliotropram EuropscumTumsele. ' Hemjana hirsuta - Hairy Raptufe-irort. Hermana Ijevis - - SraoothB&pture-wort. gespens Tartanofttt Tartarian Nighl Videt gordeum murtnum Wall Barley Myadnthusbotrjroides Grape Hyacinth, ^yacmthus comosus Purple Grape Hyacinth. Hyaointhus fuliginosusttSooty Hyacfeth illeoebrum capitatum Downy Knot Grass lilecebrum paronychia Shining Knot-Grass. Impatiens ndi-tangere Touch-me-not Yellow Inala dysentenca. Balsam. Bitter Winter-Cresfc . . Warhr Spindle-Tree. Broad-leayed Spindle- Tree. Winter Spurge. . . , Yellow Eye-Bright. ' Red Bye-Bright. Hairy Sea Heath. Turner's Fuci, Table es.JFWmrf ai the I>oint(of PhanaH^ in the bS-' racleoHck Perdnsula^ near the ndru of the Old' Cher^tmeauB of Strabo. Ordy found, before a< Prince WiU liam?8 Sound, ifiCapt. Vancouver^i voyage^ and on the shores of Kamtschatka. Snow Drop. Goat's Rue. Sea-green Ladies' Bed- " straw. Madddr-Iike Ladies B^. straw^ Wood Ladies' Bed- straw - . i ^ear Perectp^ Sevencleft Genthin. • ^ Round-leaved Crane's- biU. Steppes, Fields at Aekmetchef* • midenov, ^ PaUas, i Pallas. ** mat tt ibid. § Pallfis. 4t Jldid. 24 Inula eosifQlia. Iris ochrolenca . - Iris tenuifoUa - ' lonoiu aetttoa - Laroiom amplexicaule liaom flavum - - liiaam hinutam Linum narbonense Uthospermura disper- roum - - - - tionioeca coBratea Looicera xyloateum liOtos. comiculatus • liyoopsis pulla ^ - Lycopsis ve«icam - liynmachia vulgaris Lytbrum vigatum Marmbium petegpri- Medica^o liipuUna Meliea lanata Mentha sylyestris -, Molucella tuberosa. Myosotis Uppula Kepetanuda Nigella daroasccna Ocymnm basilicum Olea Buropoea Ononis bircina •• Onosm^ ecbioides - APPEKBIXy KO* V* Onosma simplielssima. Onosma Tanrica.* Origanum heracleoti- cum Ormthogalum oireina- tumf rO. recticu- kUumJ OrnithogEJum pivli- ferumt Ornitbogaluni uniflo- rum Orobancbe eemua§ PsBonia triternataf Panioum daetylon Panieum viride Pedicularis tuberosa Peganum harmala - Pale SwordiLiIf. Fine-leaved Sword Utly Sharp Rush. Henbit. Yellow-flowered Flax. Hairy Flax. Narbonne Flax.^ Twcscedcd Gromwell. Blue-berried Honeysuckle* FIv-Honeysuckle . Birds-foot Trefoil. Dark-flowerinrWild-Bugloss. Inflated-Wild-Bagtoss. Yellow L.oo«e-Strife. Twiggy WiUow-Herb. Rambling Hbrehound. Black Medick. Nonesuch. Woolv Melick-Grass. Wood Mint Prickly-seeded Scorpion-Grass. Smooth Calamint. Common FenneliFlower. Sweet Basil - - Gardens. Common Olive. Smooth Re8t-Harr«Wi . * The Tartars toe the vd'A to paint a rpuge. Winter Majoram. Netted Star pf Bethle- hem* Proliferous Star of Beth* lehexiii One.fl6wered Star of Betlitehein Nodding BrOOtaJ^lape. Davurian PtooBT. Fingered Panick-Grass. Green-flowered Pahick-Grass. Tuberous Lousewort At Xafa.'^TheTiirtaxt tend the seeds to Tur- hey as a cure for -worms. Pheleum arenarium Pheleum sohoenoides Pholomis herba-venti- Sand Cat's^ail Grass. Rush'Uke Cat^s-taU Grass. * PaUas. a Ibid, t Pallas, * Pallat. J Pfdlas. ^ynaMi alkekengi - Phyteama canesc^ns* Picris hieracioides - Pimpinella dloica - Poa crifltata - Polycnemum arvense. Polycoemom volvox f Poljgala major AFPSITDIX) NO. V. - Winter Cherry. Hoaiy Rampion. - Hawk weed like Ox-tongue - Dwarf Burnet-Saxifragp, - Crested Meadow-Grass. 2& ' Greater Milk-wort, Polygonum maritimum.* Sea Bktoft PolentiUa arg^otea - - Silver Goone-Orass. - Near Pereeop, Potentilla recta Prenantbes viminea. Ptoralea bitominoBa. Puaica granatum - RanuncuhiB auricomuf Rananculns pedatust Reseda lutea - - Upright Cinque-foil. - Pomej^raoate. GoIdylQcks. Wood-Crow- foot. - SmaH Crowfoot - Base Rocket Rhododendron daaricum Davvrian Rosebay. Rhus coriaria ShUB cotiout Ribes nigrum Rosa pygmaea Rumexcrispns Rumex dentatua Salicoroia herbacea . Salsosa brachiata^ Salsola kali Salfola soda £lm-leaved Sumach. - Venice Sumach - Blacic Currant - Dwarf Rose - Curled Dock. - Toothed Dock. - Glasswort. - Armed Salwort. - Prickly Saltwort. - Saltwort. - Wooly 1 - Clammy S „ - Scabious leaved Sage. - Red-topped Sage. - Wood Sage. - Common Sage. - Meadow-Clary. - Vervain. - C<nnmon SoajpwOrt • Silvery Seabtoos. >• White^wered Scabious*. " Sea-il^ Scabious. - 8tarr]p Scabious. - Ukraine Scabious. - Prickly Ru^. - Autanmal Squill. Scropbularia chrysaa- ) Ox-eye Daisy-leaTed Fig^ Salvia eethiopis Salvia glutinosa Salvia Hablitzianajl Salvia Horminum Salvia 1[}emoro8a Salvia officinalis Salria pratensis Salvia verbenaca -^ Saponaria omcinalitf^ Scabiosa argentea Scabiosa leucautha • Scabiosa maratima Scabiosa stellata Scabiosa Ukranica Schoeuus aculeatus Scilla autnmnalis The Tartars give fAeyd- lotv colour to their MO' roeco with this. Circassia, • On the lofty precipices V Mankoop, Pereeop. Ruins qf tke Old Cher^ soiMse, on tke liUle for- tress near Al$cciim9^S'- JSTAoueer. themifoliair Scutellaria orieotalis Sednm acre Sedum album • Sedum saxatHe Sedum sexangulare fienecio erucubliuf j wort. - Odental Skoll-eap. - Stone Crop. - White Stone Crop. 'Rock Stone Crop. - Insipid Stone Crop. - Hedge Ragwort. '* WOdstein. i Faki$. G ^6 APPENDIX, NO, V, Seseii dicboComum,* Se0eli guauDifSeram.f Sideritis moDtaoa - > Moontain Ironwort Sideritis Syriaca - - Syrian Ironwort. Silenebdla.l [nova spe- sSSe quadrifida r Tour-deft Catchrfly - Stt^srmr ^erecop Sinapis enicoides • Ragged-leaved Wild Mu9- tird. ' Sisymbrium loeselii • - Loesels Hedge Mu^rd . SUfpes near Peretop. Sisymbrium paiiooicom - PannoDian Hedge Mui- tard. Sisymbrium pyrenaicum IVrenian Rocket. Syum ialcaria e:~ui^ i--..-^ w^*. Solanom dnlcam&ra Sof bu« domestica Spirsi filipeodula Stetice ferulacea •* Staliee trigom . - - Sickle-leaved Water-Para-' qip. - Woody Nightshade,, - Service, - Dropwort. - Fennel-like Sea-piuk.. - Three sided Sea-Laven- der - - Ha|r4ike Feather Orass. - Oriental Comfrey. . * French Tamarisk. * Common Tansy. * Headed Germander. - Ground Pine - - Pereeop, ' Mountain Germander. - Poly, or. Sweet Germander Stipa capillata Sympby turn orientaile Tamanx gallica . Tanacetum vulgare Teuerium capitatum Teucriam chamaepitys Teucrinm montanum Teucriam polium - Thesinm Irnopbyllum. Thymus MarschalUanus^ Taurian Thyme, Thymus Zygis.|J Thymus patavinus - Patavian Thyme. Tilia Europsa - - Common Lime-tree. Tragopogon ori^ntalis > Oriental Goats-beard. TribuUs terrestris. Trifolium melilotus { officinalis - J Melilot Trifolium subterraneum Subterranean Trefoil. Trigoneila Ruthcnica - Russian Fenugreek. Triticum prostratum . - Prostrate Wh^t grasB. tJlmis pCimila r • pwarf Elm. Verbascum phmniacum - Purple Mullein. Verbena officinalis - Vervain. Veronica alpina. Veroni<^ incana Veronica loogifolia Veronica muTtifida Veronica procombens [nova species.] - - Procnmbent Germander. Veronica vema - - Spring Germander. Vicia pannonica - v Pannonian Vetch Vitex Agnus-Castus - Chaste Tree. Xeranth«mum annuum Annual Cudweed. Zygophyilum fabago - Bean Caper* * Pallas, Tn ike Steppes ^Btrs f^ queiU. - Hoary Speedwell. - Loog-leaved Germander. - Manycleft Germander. S^PPIt$^ f /Mtf. I SUem cauk decumhenJtt ramoso, ramU gldbmucttlisff JbUts laneeoUHs ^ AfM irinertaiis, Aoribus /aciciUaHs terminmdus^ taiydbus striatis piUinUK»r tiss lon^simts s petalts iTUegris, gf 5 Wildenm. g PaU^is, . NO. yi. J TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, ACCORDING TO DIURNAL OBSERVATIOJSr ; MADE DURING THE AUTHOR'S TRAVELS : j WITH A CORRESPOimiNO 8TATBMSI7T OF TEMPERATURE IIT ^ ENGLAND DURING THE SAME PERIOD; | As extracted firom the Register kept in the apartments of the Ro^al Society of London, hj order of the President and Council. N. B, Tht Ohtrvations during the Joumty were alrvttjfS^made at noon 'tk/$9t of the Boytd Soculy at ino p. m. : and both on the Scale of Fahrenheit, Obsenration on the jObMnration ia London Scale of FiUirenheit. Where made. When made. on the same day* 3a» IpSI ^®*®"*^"'«**» -^P"* 3, I80a 49. 34 NovorojEod, April 4, 54 37 Yaschelbizv, 4pril 5, ^6 35 Vysneulilykoy, . April 6» 69 40 Gorodna, April 7, .62 47 Tchemaia, , April 8, 56 49 Moscow, April 9, 56 42 Moscow, April 10, , 57 47 Moscow, Apri^ II, 56 5l Moscow, April 12, M 25 Moscow, April 13, 53 31 Moscow, April 14, 57 36 Moscow, April fS, 60 44 Moscow, AprW IB, 55 46 Moscow, April 17| b5 50 Moscow, April 18^ 61 50 Moseow, April !&, 60 50 Moscow, April 1^, 58 53 Moscow, April 21, 56 57 Moscow, Apri' 22,. 57 65 Moscow, April 23, 50 €8 Moscow, April 24, 52 73 Moscow, April 25, 49 70 Moscow, April 26, 59 66 Moscow, April 27, 50 50 Moscow, Apri] 28, 61 Moscow, April 29, 58 58 Moscow, April 30, 59 31 Moscow, May 1, 60 37 Moscow, May ^ 67 44 Moscow, May 3, 68 50 Moscow, May 4,. 74 66 Moscow, May 5, 74 66 Moscow, May 6, 72 70 Moscow, May 7, 74 53 Moscow, May 8, 72 37 MOSCOF, May 9, 73 APPBKDIX^ KO, VI. OlMeff atjon on Ui» Scale of Tabrenb^ 34» 31 48 63 SO 61 52 51 55 68 64 77 77 89 78 46 54 48 97 68 63 79 75 69 75 72 74 75 83 84 75 84 86 82 74 90 94 89 88 75 86 76 76 89 80 87 82 75 73 71 85 B4 86 85 79 82 ^^^ Where made. Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moecowi Moscow^ > Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Mttwoir, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moscow, Moalcow, Moscow, Moscow, Mose9w» MOSBOW, Moscow, Moscow, Grisebinka, - Celo Volotis, Tula, Tula, Bolshoy Platr* WoroDets, Woronete, Woronete, Woronete, Woroneti, Woronetz, C Steppe, between J Ekortey&Jc8^ I takovo, Paulovsky, " Kasankaia, ' KasankaiSi ' Lazovai, ^ • Kavanskaia, ' lntheStepp«, Oxai, Tscberchaskoy* Tscherchaskoy, Tscberchaakcy. Oxai, Oxai, ' J, EiverDoftjiiear I Rastof,* ; Birer Don, ne» I Rastof, aganrock, ' Tagaarock, ' Taganrockf '^ Taganrock, * Taganrock, . Tacanrock, Seaof Azof; When made. Maj 10, i May 11. May 12, May 13, May 14, M^ 15, Ma^ 16, May 17, May 18, May ». May 20, Miy'21, May 22, May 23, May 24. May 25. May 26, May 27, May 28, May 29, May 30^ May 31, * June 1, . June June • June ' June ^ Jane June Jane •, June -, Jane lO, ' June 11, IJune 12, 4 June 4» 5, l\ 13, 14, 15, 18, June June June _-, June 17, June 18, June 19, JKine 20, June 21, June 22, Jane 23» June 24, June 25, { June 26, i Jane 27, June 28, June 29, June 30, July I, July - Jdly Joli fuly ruiy I Obserratian. ia LdimI»P on the same day. . 54* 57 57 59 57 59 56 56 6t 62 62 62 64 61 67 67 CO 66 64 69 58 51 63 60 65 55 62 64 63 58 60 59 64 57 61 6f 66 70 74 72 66 64 68^ 72 73 72 69 60 72 67 75 71 71 ifrPEHfilX, N^- VI. t>fc^e¥tatlon on ffee ' Scale of Fabrenheit. Where matfe. Wben mftdei 80 SI 81 82 79 % 80 79 77 7« 73 77 72 77 78 82 82 79 82 77 77 72 74 77 82 85 82 87 81 82 86 81 SO 81 80 75 73 80 75 73 80 70 81 83 85 89 83 83 89 90 88 88 «3 steppe near Penpvra, July 7, Ekaterinedara, July 8, Bkaterioedara, July 9, -* July n, J JuJy 12, ]joly 13, July 14, July 15, July 16, July 17, July 18, July 19, July 20, July sa, July 22, July 23, July 24, July 25, July 26, July 27, July 28, July 29, July 30, July 31, Aug. 1, Aug. 2, Aug. 3, Aug. 4, Aug. 5, Aug. 6, 'Aug. 7, Aug. 8, Aug. 9, Aug. 10, Aug. II, Aug. 12, Aug. 13, Aug- W, Aug. 15, Aug, 16, Aug. 17, Aug. 18, Aug. .19. Aug. flo, ^"«- ^' A"g- 22, Aug. 23, Aug. 24, Aug. 25, Aug. 26, Aug. 27, Aug. 28. Aug. 29, H Temrook, JSeaof AxofQiear. Tainan Sea of Azof qpar. Yenikal^, enikal§, Venikal€, Yenikal^, Yenikalg, Yenikal^, Kertchy, Sultanovka, Aegibin, Cala, Karasubazar, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Baktcheaerai, Aktiar, Aktiar, BalaclaTB, Savtaxy, Aloftka, Aijudagh, Alusta, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet* Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, Akmetchet, ObtetTi titfn \n Ii«nieQ xm tke tame 4ayk 75 76 77 77 71 74 76 66 71 79 79 77 ^4 73 74 73 79 *m 75 72 70 78 ^1 85 88 84 75 68 76 72 74 78 78 85 83 77 77 8d 78 82 62 78 80 68 5t» 55 58 65 64 62 65 69 APPEKIDIX) Kp. Vr. 4)bMmiti4i» on the Ob8emti<»n la I^mdoa Wbennade. on the same-day^; «8« Akmetcbet* Aug. 30, 1800, 76* 88 Akmetcbet, Aug. 31, 70 77 AkmetchetL Sept. 1, 67 70 Akmetcbet, Sept. 2. 68 75 Akmet«bet, Sept A 89 «5 Akmetcbet, SfTit.* 4, 72 65 Akmetcbet, Sept 5, 59 79 Near Akmetcbet, Sept 6, 65 79 Moimtam above Bakdava, Sept 7, 80 81 \ Ruins near Balae- lava. Sept 8, 69 81 i iuh»« 1^.8: 67 ^ 83 Akmetcbet, 77 Akmetcbet, Sept 11, 67 65 Akmetcbet, Sept 12, 69 63 Akmetcbet^ Sept 13, 64 57 Akmetcbet, Sept. 14, 89 63 Akmetcbet, Sept 15, 72 75 Akmetcbet, Sept 16, 75 68 Akmetcbet, Sept 17, 71 70 Akmetcbet, S*t 18, n 72 Akmetcbet, Sept 1^ 66 77 Akmetcbet, Sept 20, 68 70 Akmetcbet, Sept 21, 65 68 Akmetcbet, Sept ^, 65 78 Akmetcbet, Sept 23, 62 75 Akmetcbet, Sept 24, 62 70 Akmetcbet, Sept, E5, 58 72 Akmetcbet, Sept 26, 60 77 Akmetcbet, Sept 27, 62 68 Akmetcbet, Sept. 2g, 59 57 Koilof, Sept. ^ 61 53 Akmetcbet, Sept 30, 58 53 Akmetcbet, Oct 1, 59 59 Akmetcbet, Oct 2, 65 57 Akmetcbet, Oct 3, 61 59 Akmetcbet Oct 4, 56 53 Akmetcbet, Oct 5, 58 54 Akmetcbet, ' Oct 8. 53 56 Akmetcbet, Oct 7, 60 68 Akmetcbet, Oct. «, 62 73 Akmetcbet, Oct «, 59 75 Steppes near 4o. Oct 1^ 54 75 Cbwlinky, Oct li. 56 73 Chs^^oka, Oct 12, 61 59 CJberson, Oct 13, 56 59 Kopenskai, Oct u; 55 59 Wichokief, ^ Oct 15, 56 59 Banks of the B<«, Oct. 18, 53 55 Angetica, Oct, 17, 54 53 Odessa, Oct 18, 58 55 Odessa, Oct 19, 54 53 Odessa, Oct 28, 56 59 Odessa, Oct. 21, 54 64 Odessa, Oct. 2Z, 45 62 Odessa, Oct ^, 56 57 Odessa, Oct 24, 53 58 Od«», 4kt 25, 42 APFEN0IX9 ITQ. VI. « Observation on the Observation in London Scsde of Fahrenheit. Where made. When made.* on the same day. 52* Odessa, Oct. 26, 1800- 55* 50 Odessa, Oet. 27, 49 44 Odessa, Oet 2», 52 46 Odessa, Oct. 2^, 51 57 Odessa, Oet 30, 54 48 H Black Sea near} ^ . {Odessa, J^^*- 31^ 52 50 IBlack Sea lat { jg i 44** 44' \ ^^^' I, 52 56 J Black Sea, lati ^ 44» 23* S ^^• 2. 92 53 rBlack Sea, lat^j^^^ •J unknown. > iBlack Sea, lat-Sj, funknown. } ^*^^* IBlack Sea, latJ ^unknown. 3 s. 47 SI 4, 47 53 5, 4) Black Sea, 4 •^ €5 ' ^ leagues from ca- i^ I nal of Constant. ^ •^• "wLk Sea, 4 5 6> *9 53 U SO wnopte. J f Black Sea, 8 ^ leagues from ca- 1 nal of CoQStanti- ANot. 8' 53 ^ople. J "Black Sea, off 1 Cape Ndi-, lat >Nov. ^, , . ' 4^ 41*30' S fiO Ibid, lat 42«0' Not. 10, 51 53 Harbour of lnead% Nov. 11, W 60 Harbour of do. Nov. 12, 46 V¥ HM4»uriifdo. Nov. 13, 45 55 Harbour of do. Not. 14. 55 53 Harbour of do. Nov. 15, Sd 54 Harbour of do. Nov. 16, 50 54 Harbour of do. Nov. 17, 47 64 Harbour of do. Nov 18, 46 63 Harbour of do. Nov. 19, 44 61 Harbour of do. Nov. 20, 44 SOfftheeanal of | jjov. 21, 43 { Constantinople. 47 Con8tantino];4e, Nov. S3, S% 4>7 Constantinople, Nov. 24, 48 49 Constantinople, Nov. 25, 42 51 Constantinople, Nov. 26, 39 SS Constantinople, Nov. 27, 37 51 Constantinople, Nov. 28, 38 ST Constantinople, Nov. 29, 42 M G«B8tantiQ»ple, N«v. 30$ 49 Ar^£Nlll2^ NO* Vt, 82 Observation oo the Scale of Fahrenheit. Where made. 59 54 57 59 57 57 59 59 5* 57 X 57 52 50 52 5a 48 43 5a 55 33 42 55 3& 41 47 5a 50 53 50 49 $1 CaAstanUnople, Constantinople, ConstanlJnople, Constantinople, Constaotinoftle, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Conatantinople, Constantinople,^ Constantinople, Conatantinople, Constantinople*- ' Constantinople^ Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople, Constantinople^ Constantinople, Constantino^e, Constantinople, Constantinople, Ceitttaiitiiiople, Obfiprrntion in I/>ndoR When made. on the same day. Dec. 1, 48 Dec. 2, 43 Dec. 3, 40 Dec. 4, 38 Dec. 5, 37 Deo. 6, 39 Dec, 7, 37 Dec 8, 39 Dec. 9, 38 Dec 10, ' 34 Dec. 11, 43 Dec. 12, 46 | Dec. 13, 46 Deo. 14, 49 Dec. 15, 45 D«Ci 16, 44 Dec. 17, 38 Dec; -18, 37 Dec. 19, S9 Dec. 20, 50 Deo. 21, 51 Dec.- 28, 49 Dec 2«, *« Dec. 24, 49 • Dec. 25, 44 Dec. 26, S9 Dec, 27, 40 Dee. 28, 39 Dec. 29, 49 Deo. 30, 51 De«. 51, 34 No. VII. NAMES OF PLACES VISITED IN THE AUTHOR'S ROUTE, WITH THEIR DISTANCES FROM EACH OTHER, IS RUSSIAN VLR^TS AHV EKGLISU MILKS, Rtui. vcfsii. £ng. trMes. Russ.vcrsts. Eng.tnilts. litota Peterebursii to ) Nov^gorod, ) Tver, Moscow, MolodUT, CcIoMoIodrr Grlscbinkn, Serpucbof, CeloZavody, Vuzaoy, CeJo Volotia, Tula, Dedilof, Bogborodftz, Ceio Nikitakojr, JBolthoy PUty, EiTremoff, lirikol^)evka, CeloPetrovikia Fabiia, ISetz, Bzvnly, Zadooetz, CeloCblebooy, BeztuzeTka, Celo Staroy IvotiDskoy, Woronetz, Celo Usmani, Fodulok MoMortkoy, Mojocks, Rkortzy,' Jestakovo, Locova Slobodt, IBauloTsky, lazinskoy Cbouter, ^izney Monloo, Dobrinka, Metscha, • Ijapok, Kaoaokaia Stanitza, Tichaia, VerchDeia (upper) ) Lazovaia. ) JNizoeia flower) ) Laze vara, ) jkcenovskaia, fiuchovskaia, Roiisochinakaia, Pichovskala, Xamenskaia, DulMvskaia, Grl¥«iiskai«. 180 — 120 38a — ; S68 2,0 162 — 108 27 — 18 26 — 16' 8.-3 21- 14 24 — 16 34 — 24 23 21 — 14 22- 14 2 3 la- 8Sr3 ss— 22 25 — 16 2-3 25 — 16 3 3 27 — 18 18 — 12 22 — 14 2-3 19 — 12 2-3 29 — J9 2 3 22 — 14 2-9 18- 12 so- 20 n- 11 1'3 is- 12 25 — 16 2-3 16 — 10 26 — 16 2 3 12 — 8 25- 16 2-3 35 — 23 1-3 15 — 10 22 — 14 2-3 21 — 14 22 — 14 2-3 so- 20 le — 17 2-3 IS- 10 IS- 10 30 — 20 22 — 14 2-3 28- 18 2 3 25- 16 2-3 21 — 14 25 — 16 2-3 25 - 16 2-3 28- 17 1-3 26 — 16 2 3 26- 17 1-3 Tscbestihaloihoia, TusJovakaia, Oxai, Tacbercbaakoy, by witer, Oxai, by do. Azof, by.ilo. TagaDrofik,bydo. Chunibenkaia, MargariiovBkaia, Ae'ikoy^ Cherubinovikoy, Aeaiokojr. Albaskoy, Chalbaskoy, Protehalooy, B«y«e«<ikoy, Sirpiltzy, Xfaperenakti Kataebibba, Ponoura, Ck«teriBtelara, Vydola, MecbaatOTtkoy? Kara Kuban, Kopil, Kalaua, Kounky, Temrook, Siennai Tanao, VoyageoDtbeBeaof \ AEof^ and return, \ Pasaage to TeDikal6, Kertcby, Sultanovaka, Argbuine, as?"'- Kieroftcby, Bourntidtlk, Karasubazar, ria, Akmetchet, Baktclieterai, Aktiar, «.. Monastery or St. George ) «. and return, ) ** Balaclava, KtttcbUck MuBeoffiia, Savtick, KUtchuckzy, 26 — 17 1-3 27- 18 27 — 18 45 — 10 15- 10 46 — 30 100- 66 3.3 45 — 30 3 — 2 37 — 24 2^ 7 — 4 2-3 25 — ]6d:8 35 — 28 1-3 30 — 20 30 — 20 •25 — 16 3.3 36 — 23 1-3 7 — 4 3-3 18 — 13 17 — 11 1-3 25- 16 3-3 25 — 16 3-3 20 — 13 1-3 25 — 16 3 3 26 — 16 3-3 26 — 16 8-3 35- 33 t-3 36- 33 1-3 36 — 23 1-3 25- T8 S-5 26 — 17 1-3 18- 13 10 — 6 33 28 — 18 3-3 22 — 14 3^ 28- 18 3-3 22 — 14 3-3 24- 16 23- 15 1-3 22- 14 3-3 21 — 14 21 — 14 30 — 30 33 — 81 1-3 24- 16 13 — 8 7 — 4 3-3 7 — 4 2--4 W — )0 * Not ia the regulv route? M APPBNX^IX, NO. Vlf. Russ.verttt. Sng.nUa, Ruts vents. Eng. nate$» Aloiipkt, IS- 10 Kouka, 30— 20 Tourzova, IS— 10 Biroslaf, 10— « 2S IoarKoiit«t, 7 — 4 2-3 Chahinka, 28— n 2-3 Alusti, 25 — 16 2-3 Izigoulitz, 19— 12 a-3 Yeoikeujr, 15 — 10 Cheraop, 18— 12 ^metehet. 15 — 10 Kopeoskd, 42—21 1-3 Katcha, 34 — 22 2-3 Nicholaef, 30— 20 Sbuiu, 20 — 13 1-3 River Bogh, 4 — 2 23 Alexltno'8 Cfcoutw, 36 — 24 Ferry over do. 4- 2 a-» TchoKom, 28 — 18 2-3 Autbecra, 35—16 2'i 8hulu, 8 — 6 1-3 Sasiska, 21 — 14 Koi^Sala, 5 — 3 1-3 Kaleeulska^ 2 2-3 Angelica, 28— 18 a-3 Maakoop, 4 — 21 — 14 Kala Ilaes, Katcha, Akmetehet, 8 — 10 — 34 — 5 1-3 Odessa, 6 2-3 22 2-3 18 — 12 3890- tf 93 L-J Xodof, 64 — 42 2*3 VoTag* aerasa the Blaek ▲kmetebet. U — Meranchtfk, 26 — 17 1-3 ill a direct line from Ablank. 16- 10 a-3 Odessa, does not exceed Ibaira, 22 — U 2-3 three hundred lei^^es; Burman, 24 — 16 but from our deviations. Ishuna, 19 — 12 2-3 return frem the canal to ttag.mUU. 26 — 17 1-3 loeada, &c. it equalled 600-1500 T^£!l?itoiriiii. 25 — 25- 16 2-3 16 2 3 MUet, TfttilofdMnceiiitlM autbor^an nite from P«t6nbuTKh.to CODBtaBtiM pie, 4093 14 SND OF PABT nBSf . i RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY BIdg. 400, Richmond Field Station University of California Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ^LL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may be renewed by calling (415)642-6753 I -year loans may be recharged by bringing books to NRLF Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW JUL 10 1992 SENT ON ILL MAR 1 4 mii J. C. BERKELEY ,uu u6 2007i GENERAL UBRARY - U.C. BERKELEY illlllll BDDDS71.343 I/. I UNIVERSITY OF CAUFORNIA LIBRARY 